bear351c

Hi Admin,
 
Under "Technical" section, is there a page on Wheels and tyres??
 
I was going to ask if anyone had redrilled or multi drilled any rims. Found a pair of 16x10 Performance Challengers (Globes) on Ebay for a Torana, wondered if they could be modified to Ford stud pattern.
 
Couldn't work out where to post. Am I missing it?
 
Bear.

Smart thinking, Bazza. The vinyl is glued on with that sticky yellow contact adhesive. You may get it all off, but, if you're gunna cut out rust spots anyway, you'll need the paint and compressor anyhows.......... may be a small syringe with rust deoxidiser or fish oil for the time being.?  Or grab a sheep, hold it upside down and rub it on the roof, from side to side.

All done now, on EL its the pins at the right end you short.
 
Cheers guys

Note : Dont use Silastic to fix the windscreen. It contains Acetic acid, which will cause "fog" on the glass. Use the corrct Black Mastic stuff, should stay tacky for about 125 years.........and cannot be removed from the skin.   :D  

......

custom 2 door xe coupe WICKED

Thanks bud...she's a custom one to suit the off set carb of the xflow so it's 6" wider than a stock one but only 3.5/4" tall from memory.
 
 

This is mine
 

82da will be xe only, the date codes are created during the end of the design process so to be designed in 82 would of been released already into the year of 82
 
also in 82 they were flat out developing/releasing the xe and wouldnt of been making parts for a police car that was weeks away from being outdated

Do people trust them lift plates that bolt down onto the carby flange? They seem like they would be scary as hell with 4 3/8th bolts into an alloy manifold, but every car builder on tv uses them loading on big blocks with autos on the back of them.

Most Thermo fan switches have an off and on temp. The original fan, was only needed in traffic or at standstill. When moving you dont need a fan. Hence the invention of the viscous hub for 1980's onwards. Air pushing against the hub, allows the fan to turn at alternative speeds to engine revs. Less horsepower loss.

Not to anybody else, but, to you who will drool over it, drive it with pride and know you have the cleanest, toughest car on your street.........Priceless     

yup, thats basically what has happened to me, they have to be handled so carefully, and at $8.00 a pop, sorry...

8.0mm ones .. rubbish . the ends come off and ive had heaps of problems with them

Smart thinking, Bazza. The vinyl is glued on with that sticky yellow contact adhesive. You may get it all off, but, if you're gunna cut out rust spots anyway, you'll need the paint and compressor anyhows.......... may be a small syringe with rust deoxidiser or fish oil for the time being.?  Or grab a sheep, hold it upside down and rub it on the roof, from side to side.

Ive had a long think about it and ive decided ill remove the vinyl next year and get the roof resprayed and a few other things done when i save up, in the mean time I'm just going to try and look after the vinyl to try and minimize any damage underneath

351 drops straight in......
 
Looks better
Sounds better
Goes better
 
   

Yep, top hose.
Guessing you have to cut the hose to fit.??  Original sender measures temp inside the block, doesn't make a lot of difference. Most thermo fans run from sender in radiator. 

Some diesel engine oils designed for older non-euro engines have higher zinc levels, which are good for flat tappet engines. They also have high detergent levels for better cleaning. If you see dirty black oil when draining, you should be happy. It's doing its job.
 
I'd use a 15W40 on an engine that young, maybe even a 10W30, but mineral oil in that grade I'm not sure about. I'd never use synthetic until completely bedded in.
 
60 grade is way too thick i my opinion, and will work the oil pump hard. Tight new engines run small clearances and thicker oil is actually worse as there is less flow and more heat involved. Less flow: less splash lube onto the cam, wiped lobes. Even after break-in this can happen.

it also assisted with warming the base plate and the fuel to stop flat spotting when cold

Mmmm.............Roller cam.

Some basics are a solid cammed engine doesnt like to sit around idleing as it destroys the camshaft and lifters,enter the EDM lifters with oil squirters in the contact face.But basically a hyd cammed engine = every day and a solid is weekend toy but a roller cam does both worlds better.
 
Just throwing it out there...
 
P.S another way to look at solid v hyd is about $500 or so.

Hydraulic: street
Solid: race
 
There's an overlap between the two where you could have a racy hydraulic cam or a street solid, but the general rule is that solids are for higher rpm levels that hydraulics won't handle. Conversely, hydraulics are used on street engines because they are zero maintenance, quiet and are gentle on the valvetrain, sort of like a shock absorber. They normally last the life of an engine if used in mild applications.
 
If you want to know the reasons for either then you'll have to go right back to the start.
 
The valvetrain needs clearance between the rocker and the valve to allow for its expansion due to heat. If it was set up at zero cold, under heat the valve (especially the exhaust) would actually hold itself open, allowing gases to escape and you'd eventually burn out valves and seats. So to allow for the expansion, the clearances are often set when cold (some may be hot-set) and almost always the exhaust is looser than the inlet. An example might be 0.008" inlet and 0.014" exhaust. This is on a mechanical or "solid" valvetrain. This has to be checked and adjusted at regular intervals to allow for wear in all of the valvetrain components, eg every 20,000 km.
 
A hydraulic setup gives effectively zero clearance as the gap is taken up by oil pressure feeding into the lifter and filling a tiny cylinder inside. It also allows for wear on the valvetrain. As the cam comes onto lobe, a tiny valve inside the lifter shuts off and oil is trapped inside, and the lifter becomes pretty much solid. You might ask why the valves don't stick open when hot, due to the zero clearance... Well the litters have a very small amount of leakage so that they're always constantly pumping up and leaking back down to maintain the zero clearance.
 
Which brings us to why they don't like big rpm. At high speed, the lifter can actually start to leave the back of the cam lobe due to the valve spring not being able to push back enough and keep them in contact. The hydraulic lifter now sees that split second of no load as a clearance, and oil is pumped in to take it up. Then you have negative clearance.... And valves stuck open. That's what you call lifter pump-up. Ever thrashed your hydraulic-cammed engine for a while and noticed it running like a hairy goat afterwards, then come good again? That's the symptom right there. Pumping up and slowly bleeding back down again.
 
So then you install heavier valvesprings to cope with the rpm but there's a point where the internals of the hydraulic lifter can't cope with both the higher spring pressure and the high rpm loads.
 
Enter the solid lifter... It solves all those problems at the price of higher maintenance and (slight) noise.
 
Hydraulic cams can have a more aggressive ramp because the lifters have a fluid cushioning effect. Solid cams need a more gentle ramp because there is no cushion. What you give at one end, you get at the other. For this reason, neither type can interchange, unless a very particular application requires it.
 
Hope it all makes sense after all that.

that block is toast, unless you sleeve it, which can have its advantages so long as its done right as has been explained to you
 
who ever told you its going to cost 1500$ for a decent block, bore and hone is pulling your leg, you can find plenty of clevelands that are standard bore for <$600, i have two virgin bore 351s sitting in storage with oil in the bores and 5.56 poured down the thermostat housing, i paid less than $600 for each of them
 
how much has he quoted you for all the machining total? $1000 for the sleeving and hone, im guessing if its 40thou over its going to need a tunnel bore for mains and cam, then machining crank and balancing, deck will most likely need a grind etc. then you got balancing and head work.
what are the water jackets like in that block? does it look like theres much corosion in there?
 
can't comment on NGER, all i know is stay away from geelong engine reconditioners, heard 3 bad reveiws from them.
 
cheapest bet, buy a flogged out original bore 351 (complete), get it machined, and if its going to stay below 6000rpm put an ACL race series rebuild kit through it, comes with pistons, rings, bearings, gaskets, and seals.

I know of a roller-camed x-flow race motor up here that has a standard volume oil pump in it with 1/3rd machined off the standard oil pump gears!!!!!!
 
This motor is in its 6th season without a rebuild and won the club championship last year. Enough said!!
 
Yes I scare myself sometimes too, so you are not alone.....