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Valvebouncer last won the day on July 19

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About Valvebouncer

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    Blue Mountains N.S.W.

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  1. That photo looks like the monster truck is on the roof of your car!!
  2. Your right, I forgot all about that bloody clamp! It’s like a giant hose clamp.
  3. You can buy a special tool like this one Make sure the threads are clean. In my experience dirt settles in around it with water and sets like stone. Scrap around the outside of the ring so it’s really clean and blow it out with compressed air
  4. I hope your wrong too. What going on Jack??
  5. Yeah, I’m tired. This along with being back at work full time, and still going hard renovating the house. At least the builders have finished up now, they did a great job! I haven’t forgotten about the springs, it’s just finding time with all of this and wrestling kids too, you know all about too! I’ve still got that yoke set aside for you too.
  6. One for the Cleveland lovers ( all of us! ) who wouldn’t want a 482CID alloy clevo!![emoji108]
  7. Does anyone know what the problem is with our forum operating on tapatalk?? It’s getting worse, I’m getting posts 12hrs late, skips the last 10 posts and now I have to sign in all the time. What the go?
  8. Those parts are coming up well. You should try to keep all the pushrods and rockers in the same order as they have worn together. It’s not absolutely necessary but it’s good practice. I’d crack open the oil pump to clean and lube everything up especially the relief valve. Learn from my mistake of not checking it then blowing off an oil filter then having to rebuild another pump and install it with the engine in the car.
  9. Magic work Rod! You really do have a gift. I hear you about problematic knees. I end up squatting down if it’s for a short time, I find this help my back and posture too, I’m not hunching over. As I get older I care less about how long a task take me and spend more time setting myself up to do it. I have recently built a temporary work bench that is really high while working on cylinder heads.
  10. Here you go, my bad, the brand is ABRO
  11. The lapping sticks you have are great but that paste is absolute rubbish, I have a full container of it, tried it on one valve and put it back on the shelf. It dries too quickly and is way too coarse for my liking ( I know it has coarse and fine paste ). Try and get ARBO brand, it stays wet for a long time and you can see how well the valve and seat are mating together while using it- kind of like bearing blue - once you start lapping valves this will make more sense as you get a feel for it. It leave a nice finish too. By all means give it a go but you may find it frustrating to use. Mix it up well with a screwdriver before trying to use. Another thing you should buy is a straight edge if your going to do more of these engines. You need to make sure the heads are flat. Any more than 2 thou dip or warp and you should look at getting skimmed at the machine shop. I usually check them 5 ways , front to back on the exhaust side of the chambers, again on the inlet side then again straight down the middle. Then diagonal from front left to back right then front right to back left. Buy a nice long proper straight edge, mine is around 1200mm long and don’t drop it!
  12. Awesome!! That looks like so much fun[emoji106]
  13. I forgot to add these photos, here is the sender unit in vinegar, check out how it clouded up! It satiated like that for 2 days then came out like new! Sorry I don’t have any photos afterwards. The rust just fell off it leaving it super clean. Thanks mate. After the inlet manifold gasket is done I’ll start on the rust! Yep, F trucks are super tough!
  14. Follow this, don’t cut corners. Don’t be tempted to use a drill to lap the valves either. I like the brand ARBO for grinding paste, there are some really crap ones out there.