2redrovers

I'd go for the acid etch prime method first.. Worst case scenario it might chip and if it does, just wash it down with thinners to get the paint off then sand or fine blast it before painting again. I reckon the etch will be good enough though. Not something your going to be handling all the time.

Bitumen based seam sealer. Like you said, it looks like tar because basically it is. I'm sure it has various things in it but the same black goop that seals the cracks in the road, got turned into sheets for deadener, or spray for stone guard and noise reduction, or gooped through a squeezy nozzle for seams. It's the cheap kind that auto shops will carry or check with your paint supplier.

Looking great man [emoji41][emoji108]

Tidy[emoji108]

".. Hahahaha I'm a livin joke.." That's awesome to see. Car is going to be perfection when it's done. Wonder if that other box is back together and functional too?

Relax... They run four stage Bluetooth dampers, they're just not installed yet [emoji28]

Just use these and build any combo you like [emoji16]

Spray cans should be fine for the engine bay, just a bit expensive for the amount of coverage you get but probably cheaper/easier than setting up a compressor. I've never used the Eastwood stuff but I'm sure it's half decent. Most of their products are aimed at guys in the same position as you. I'd suggest going to your local bodyshop/auto paint supplier and get them to put together the gear you need. Cans can be tricky due to reactions between chemicals so it's best to ask the shop what's suitable and how much you will need to do the job.

The only difference I'd say to that is instead of etch, use ppg epoxy (or similar) after you sand the bay. It will permanently seal the old paint and bare metal at the same time and give you a consistent base layer to work up from. The stuff I use was called ppg 408 grey-green but it's had a name change that I can't remember the new code.

Agreed. Do it once and forget about it. [emoji106]

Looking good [emoji106]

Worn fan bearings/bushings? Maybe on 3, the rpm is just right to make it wobble and slow down? Just a thought.

That's the best way to go and in reality, it doesn't take any extra effort when compared to chasing problems later (paint reactions, bubbles, etc)

Yeah that's the type, refers to the curly nylon abrasive. I use a large diameter disc without the backing pad. Get them from your local bodyshop / auto paint supplier. It's important to use a variable speed grinder/sander for this type of disc. Don't spin them too fast or they will break apart and fly off at high speed. I usually run at about half speed on mine. That also applies to the type you linked with the backing pad, the glue is often weakened from not being stored properly prior to sale.

The best method is bare metal then prime with ppg 408 epoxy (in grey-green is the best version), then filler if required, reprime with the 408 epoxy to seal the filler, then start the process for painting (hifill, sanding, colour etc). You can do a panel at a time, the epoxy is 2 pak but does take a long time to dry so be aware of that but it's relatively cheap and the best on the market as far as the resto scene is concerned. I'd strip it with a poly disc for most of it, red brush what I couldn't reach, treat any rust with acid then seal it as above with epoxy. It will be good for a couple of years if done correctly like that and weather proof as well.