2redrovers

If you have a search for the model number you can probably find the service manual for the converter. Might help you diagnose the issue and maybe not have to swap it.

In theory it's just swapping parts over if it's the same model BUT make sure that you turn the supply off at the tank before undoing anything. Be prepared for some escape from the lines and don't get freezer burns. There's also coolant running through it. The problem I can see is when you get it swapped over, will the new one need tuning or set up? That would be the benefit of having a pro do it for you. I've heard that the converter can get waxed up and stop working, I believe there is a drain on them but I'm not familiar enough to give any more than general info.

I have no idea exactly what is required to fit the 2L but I can add this, if you slide the engine back on the mounts that's easy enough to do with offset brackets. However, there isn't any more room to advance the shifter location and have it in the factory hole. The conversion moves the shifter forward 75mm for a standard engine placement and that brings the shifter "box" as far as you can get without cutting into the trans case itself. Any further and you would be halfway through the linkages etc so that's not an option either.

It will probably have less rust by then too. No one wants it looking the way it is (too scary) and I'm not desperate to get rid of it, just a bit impractical having so many cars crammed in the shop. That won't last forever and I'll eventually tinker with the bodywork. I've had silly half thoughts about replicating the chassis in thicker stock so it still looks original but is way stiffer.

Probably will.....

I may know of one [emoji28]

Nothing wrong with that idea

2-2.5k for an engine conversion is reasonably cheap compared to other swaps and the build of a 1600 would take that much easily yes? If you really want to run down that road you just have to supply the engine and gearbox for any mods pre paint and then it goes home on a truck to finish the set up... Just a thought you've probably already had. Question is which block do you actually want?

What's the cost of supporting systems? Is there a cheaper "stock" way to get it running that you could upgrade later and spread the cost out a bit?

Does the gearbox still work with zetec?

I like it. That's how I would have done the front too.

You should be able to get the data sheets for it and double check that it will do what you want and to see exactly how to use it properly.

Yep that's the stuff we used. I recommend any of the fusor products when you are looking for trade quality adhesives, pricey but excellent quality.

At the smash shop I used to use fusor brand 2part glue for plastics or weld it back together with the soldering iron or combination of whatever worked for the specific repair at the time. The glue works best with a rough surface to grip and needs to be spotless clean, also some sort of mesh like fibreglass tape or fly screen to reinforce the join helped where suitable. I have read that acetone will melt abs and weld itself back together but you would have to try it out on some scraps before the real thing becomes I haven't done it personally. If I knew back then it would have saved a lot of time and effort if it works.

That's about 2k in shop time you've saved yourself [emoji6][emoji106]