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2redrovers last won the day on March 20

2redrovers had the most liked content!

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About 2redrovers

  • Rank
    Metalcraft Magician
  • Birthday 05/10/1977

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  • Location
    Seaford Vic

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  1. It's possible but it's also possible to make a visible distortion on the outside with heat differentials when you double layer things like the extra aluminium or steel. Might get away with a soft windscreen sealant to hold it in place but also move a bit with the panel. Depends why it's canning as to what will fix it. Deadener type materials will always help because they slow the panels ability to vibrate but if you're getting the bink-bonk when you press lightly on the panel then the panel probably needs fixing first.
  2. Yeah anything that adds mass to the panels usually helps cut the vibration. So things like raptor, stone guard, body deadener, even cavity wax to an extent can help. The Chinese dynamat was supposed to be better than the real thing and about a third the price. I have a big bag of self adhesive insulation offcuts that Barry gave me. It's the stuff he uses inside the aircon ducts he makes to cut noise and temperature change. Couldn't use it anywhere that would get wet because it would suck it up like carpet but inside doors, boot, firewall under carpet etc would help with noise suppression.
  3. Thanks man, getting closer. Trying to button it up in the next couple days so we can swap it for the next one at the weekend. Which thinking about it... I need to seal it up probably tomorrow.. Hmm
  4. Forgot, I also smacked the rear arch lip around a bit to neaten them up. They were already belted up, roughly though. Tried my fancy tool out, worked but the creased edges didn't like it so I hammered some spots.
  5. More and more Sorted that door mostly, am ok with it apart from one area that sort of oil cans if you push wrong. It should be fine with careful blocking when it gets to high fill stage. I hesitate to do anything because it's the right shape just lacking enough tension. Deleted the aerial hole (wish I'd asked the question earlier, doesn't matter but would have been easier off the car). When you need to do small fiddly patches, zap a bit of wire to it before trying to weld it in the panel. Rubbed almost the full side now. I'm still messing with the front corner, the fancy new surrounds have to fit better than they do at the moment but I'm not 100% sure what the right position is yet.
  6. 2redrovers

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Well that's just nuts[emoji39]
  7. Then spent the arvo working on the back half of the qtr Spent some time with the sanding block on the upper panel, smoothing the epoxy in the first stage towards straight panels.
  8. Dent puller, came out better than I thought it might Clean up and straightened with the shrinker disc Last shot is what you would see as the bottom line on the Sill where I welded the new panel to the existing quarter. The repro had a slight difference in profile and I did what I could to make the dip as small as possible. It's going to need a touch of filler but not extreme and mostly on the weld line. I wouldn't be hassled by filling and blocking it straight, hopefully Conrad won't be either. Not sure what his skills are like yet.
  9. 2redrovers

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    I haven't really tried this, although have done similar, lay a bit of tig filler wire into the gap and mig it in. Tig wire is the same as mig wire just bigger. I've done it with plain steel trimming before.
  10. This got done.. Kombi door shrunk and slapped around till it's straight enough (for me anyway) Then I've been working my way around the torana. Cue lots of similar photos time Door was pretty good, just around the handle and back edge. Haven't fully finished that yet, got caught up with other areas. The sill had a sideswipe to fix, deeper near the front and tapers out towards the arch.
  11. 2redrovers

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    How wide is that gap anyway?
  12. 2redrovers

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Any number of reasons... Shit quality filler that absorbed water over time, wrong hardener ratio, dirty steel, filler left unsealed too long, poor quality paint used to seal it up, ftruck treated like shit during it's life so impact force after it was done made it crack and let water in... Etc
  13. 2redrovers

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    If you're still in lazy mode, just zig zag weld the gap up. A stitch on the left, right, left right etc until it's closed up. If it's a wide gap, left, right, middle while still glowing. Move quickly and go all the way from start to finish on something that size. Don't force it to cool, let it settle slowly then grind or grind while still hot.
  14. First off, I'm not being an ass or arguing, I fully understand what you're saying and you're probably right. I can see both sides because I can diy and I do the work for those who can't. Thing is though, why should there be a different price for the two markets? It's the same bit of rust which I personally think is only worth maybe 5k as an unstarted project, too much wrong to be worth a lot. But I get that they're thin on the ground and xa's probably more so... I dunno, I'm tired so not braining completely.. Did that make sense?
  15. But is it worth 20k to start with? That's the question, doesn't matter what it's worth when shiny or how much to get it there. I thought maybe 15tops but I could be way off.