deankxf

fixed the sticky handle today. was actually tight on the pivot spindle (under that screw, torx T20) decided to try remove the handle, it's risky, the bolts came out though with ease (they have a locking compound on them) access through the door by removing a grommet once i got the handle out, the area i thought it was catching on, already had clearance T20 torx for this self tapper (could probably cut a slot in it and use a flat head screw driver) washed the handle up, taking photos of how the spring went together sanded the spindle with 320 grit sanded the inner hole .. got sick of that fast after testing it several times with no change taped the sandpaper to a bit and used it like a flap sander in the hole for a while until it was a loose fit. crap video of it not sticking anymore. i wiped some engine oil on it, because i couldn't find my grease tub.. (should probably have put silicone spray on it?) it appeared to have NOTHING on it from factory though? works perfectly after refitting it. also took the opportunity to wash out the dirt from the inside of the door and clear the drains (found some rust also, but door trim covers it fine, non issue)

STICKY DOOR HANDLE ISSUE (outside rear right in this case) could cause your door not to open or close (see above post for possibly more notes on the issue) NOT AN ACTUATOR ISSUE, but Could have been a locked up actuator due to the door handle sticking (not sure) knee pad, look after your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone. I THINK it's a T30 torx.. these screws can be super tight (rusted) i had to drill the heads off some spare doors here to remove the mechs (haven't tried fixing them, but the mech may have parts so i kept them) front left and rear right mechs.. I am working on the rear door, but thought i might need to use parts from the actuator.. (the front one had the stuffed mounting bolts, so it was the sacrificed one if needed.. not needed in this case) not much to see here, but this is the drivers rear one before I cut the zip ties and before the handle lever rod fell out. (take photos, so you know how to put it back together) there was nothing wrong, but i forgot to heed the warning in the video a few posts back about the spring flying off when you remove those geared parts and motor.. (took me 2 minutes to reassemble after looking at this picture of how it was meant to be.) THE OFFENDING DOOR HANDLE (from the inside, rod lever disconnected, and you can see the lever arm stuck down, it should spring back to the top, the rod shouldn't have tension on it when installed) even closer pic arrow pointing to the tight area, I'm going to sand this down and grease it. as long as the lever arm isn't going to be affected by sanding some clearance, i'll give it at least 1mm of clearance if it's easy to do.. (going to try not remove the handle to work on it, as the mounting bolts can also be a problem to undo on these cars) that center pivot screw i don't want to mess with, i can't see how it would be too tight? (however, if it was too tight, i'd mess with it ) and a crap video of My observation for your viewing pleasure.

mine initially wouldn't open.. from either door. now you mention it, i did check the child lock, and it seemed sus also.. but i think it was possibly unrelated to the issue. (found it today, partly fixed) I think the CAUSE is possibly from pressing the lock button (has to be with the remote or central locking) while the door handle is trying to open .THIS ISSUE is due to the outer door handle rod puller sticking in the open position.. (I'm uploading pics for a detailed post now) if it doesn't lock, check back soon on My next post. It could be the outer handle sticking. . this is the drivers side rear, but it would easily be possible on the rear doors (front door handles are a different actuation )

you'd have to look around and see what you can find. try the facebook groups etc for bargains (a mate bought a full BTR transmission from the wreckers with sender unit in it for $165 or something like that. )

had an issue with the AU today, rear door wouldn't unlock, or open.. then later when i was cycling the locks with the lock/unlock button it unlocked and opened, and now won't close (car can't lock either now) guessing i'll be pulling an actuator apart tomorrow . (i have spares, so should be able to fix it in the same way this guy did)

The black 8 pulse one (XD XE) is the rare one The red one is same even on AUs (XF XG XH EA EB ED EF EL AU will all be same) just need to change the gear on the end to suit the EB ratio, the corrector shouldn't be needed. (unless it was in an XD XE, because the red 10 pulse one will read 20% higher with the same gear on it) should be easy to find locally in wreckers, but what often happens to them is one or more wires snaps off at the transducer end, could try soldering it on again if there's enough left on it. here's ONE of 3 on ebay, $150.. seems dear, but ebay is convenient and maybe cheaper if you can find one from someone wrecking one of the above cars https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/298141705342?_skw=speedo+transducer+XF&itmmeta=01KW1MTJT1SWPM4PHT849G9WFN&hash=item456aa1647e:g:UXwAAeSwkQVpvHqb&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCvVWbQijWydBZSB2KR5PfHa3bSEY4Bho3eG9%2FFPKLJDwOZUqAQIlAb2qHdUKtDWH%2FzMkXR73YKkGS4ig94FRBCqWR2yg5OdIDiVeJzFIkKOtG%2BsdKBrKY2zF7z%2BhDgINECUJqJ6ywHooklZXvu2hZf7d1P6NfC6VO54xj130AnMxAZGe2ybcKDT1e%2BiZ7YP5tGpTpjisVQ44M%2FWWRq7BAxRkAVs23GlQmVd8BMtpkUlc7hU4n9MGXsyteo%2BEbT99I%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6Ct6rTgZw

it wont clip off like modern cars if it's like the base model XD XE XF seats. you need to unskin the seat trim and then there are two clips that are extremely strong and brittle that you need to prise up a bit so the headrest can slide out (if you release those clips, it will slide out like a modern car one, but it's release clips are inside the seat back under the foam) you might be able to just take the head rest cover off.. that's probably the best way for a beginner. have lots of swear words ready, and ideally a location of a spare seat.

the seats I've dismantled personally (not a ghia one but I expect are same) had clips that are a proper pain to release the headrest (they break probably 50% of the time, you'd do well to use a hair dryer etc to heat the plastic before trying to release the clip part) It's comparable to Peter Anderson's video at the 4 minute ish mark (although these headrests remove easy unlike XF ones) it's similar at 4minutes because these retainers clip into the frame similar to how the headrests clip into the plastic clip on the XF seats. unfortunately, taking the seat backs off is not as easy as these toyota ones (He may have video'd or someone else may have videos on falcon seats, but i haven't seen them. ) but to get the head rests out, the seat trim needs to be "peeled off" (as shown in this video) it's risky for material rips/tears and cuts on your hands etc(dangerous job, lots of sharp stuff to either stab or slice your hand on inside seat frames) personally if you can buy another seat, that would be My first option. (spare seat trim and foam is worth having for the drivers seat anyway) if not, then you might be able to take the headrest trim off without removing the headrest ?(will be either possible or extremely hard) by probably finding the joined edge like in the video below and it's probably got hog rings holding it on.. take the trim off, and see what's loose, missing or broken (suspect a spring issue)

what i did with My drivers seat, and it might be an option for your passenger seat perhaps, is have the seat trims removed and fitted to a GL seat (i did this to rid the broken tilt mechanism on the drivers side while fixing some other issue) i haven't seen what's inside the ghia head rest, but it might be possible to repair if it's just broken a spring inside only. (no idea how they work, )

6cyl XD XE will be same V8 cluster is same other than the tacho calibration (adjustable also, can be changed to either with adjusting a trim pot and calibrated correctly) even the GL without tacho will be mostly the same (i had one where the tacho wire wasn't in the XE we had, i just added it to the plug)you can decode nearly all of the wires if need be by following the tracks on the circuit board (will need to undo the 6 screws on the back to release it from the housing. what car is it going into?

it probably will work like new for ages now. i submerged an XG mech (same as e series) in petrol and swished it around, was absolutely caked in dusty grease. worked mint afterwards. i'd just spray it with WD40 or similar and it's probably good for another 10+ years if it's working fine now.

at least you can get them now. back when i was playing with this old stuff, it was off to the wreckers for a whole lock mech.. with ford parts saying NLA (no longer available) for anything you ever wanted. (plus side back then, you could buy a whole car for $500 or less and get 3 or 4 of those springs and a host of other spare parts)

there's a hole either side in a gap, it just needs to have one of the spring parts in each side.. bit of a fiddle to get it in there. found a photo of it on ebay. edited it to show where it goes.

grease the pin, it latches on, grease that spring latch part, oil the door hinges and oil/grease any of the mech parts.. if you probably drowned that key lock in some WD40 or similar it might flush the dust out of it.. ideally locks are supposed to have a graphite powder in them, but they can still get that oxidized build up that WD40 etc seems to prevent.. (for a rarely used lock, i'd go with the WD40..) you can pull the tumblers out of that lock easy which will also make it easier to turn. ..any key/screw driver will open it.. but it's not likely going to have people trying to get in there.... same process for the door locks if you wanted.. My Dad had one lock on his car without tumblers for decades and a spare ign key under the seat for when he went fishing.. just incase he lost his keys overboard etc. (these days they smash windows etc rather than play with locks anyway)

yeah they are pretty bad and very hard to line up to work properly. i've had several that had home made latches and gate locks etc and one had the pin filed down so it would close easier (this is the one that fell open easily) i used the number plate screws to screw into the panel behind . (did this by accident once also) good luck, if you can turn the key, it should come open with some prying