deankxf

the only memory i've seen of a pulsar turbo, is i'm fairly sure the 8 second 1/4 mile gemini was using one or their 9 second street gemini uses one at 40+ psi. (i have a feeling the 8 second gemini is running something different now, but not 100% sure) there really isn't many active members here anymore, and most aren't into turbos/boost anyway. you'd probably have a better response asking on a facebook group and filtering out all the troll comments.

no, it won't have a spigot bearing on an auto to deal with, but you should do the welsh plug on the back of the engine while the gearbox is off. (i dont' know for sure if it's got one , but i assume so) cant help with the rear main seal, haven't done windsor ones.

I'm not familiar with the fan issues other than I've read that being 20+ years old they can be dead from age/wear now. so testing them individually or checking the wiring would be an easy starting point. water leaks can be tricky to track down, a tip i was told decades ago was to puff flour around suspect places and it will be washed off if there is a leak. don't rule out water doing the capillary action of running down a wire, bonnet cable, etc if the grommet is cracked or just running down the firewall into the brake pedal hole etc (shouldn't but things like that are possible) also the door seals can be surprising for a leak source, as with windscreen seals. the flour test is probably worth doing if you have a suspect spot for leaks. the air vent is pretty tall, there'd need to be a lot of water in the plenum if it was to overflow that, and if it's been repaired in the plenum they should have seam sealed it otherwise. check the plenum isn't full of water due to blocked drains first, that's an easy test also

@Thom any thoughts on VCT heads, AU tickford heads and the XG head above? is the head even a restriction with a stock ish cam?

there's certain underdash units they used to refer to as KNEE FREEZE air con, because the vents just pointed straight at knees. i was going to fit one to My transit van (1980 model i sold ages ago now) but make a front panel with ducting up higher. so something to think about when looking for one, is if you can get outlets to point where you want it to. also, don't be tempted to use say an XF air con pump that likely bolts on, there's a Sanden unit that's much much more reliable that would be the go if possible. @SPArKy_Dave might have some ideas for air con if you are lucky.

give your 250 hater mates a shifter and say you've got 5 minutes to replace the starter motor.. (it's that easy) alternator is probably 5 minutes on a non air con XD 250... they got harder with air con fitted though. try those jobs on an XG and you'll hate your life choices lol. don't bother proving other people wrong, with large sums of money almost anything is possible.. just build your engine to behave how you want to drive it. you'll be hating the 13s choice if you think it's too noisy, uses too much fuel , can't cruise on 100kmh for hours etc if you only get to a drag strip once or twice ever.

@SPArKy_Dave Tassie based, be expensive to post to mainland for changeover surely? or do Repco do them.

haven't seen that done before, so it will be interesting to know how it goes.

there's very little movement in those 3 steering box mountings from memory.

pedders picked my drag link once, quoted like $800 for a new one (20yrs ago) i said i've got 2 more at home (used to buy a car when i needed parts) fitted another, came back.. same thing.. (whatever they were crapping on about at the time i am not sure. but i brought the other 2 with me and they were all the same.. just ran with it, surely they weren't bent?) being you had different angles, that is interesting though. wonder if/how they get bent perhaps jumping a gutter or similar?

that's pretty interesting. I've watched mine in the past move a fair bit up and down in the bushes (new rubber/nolathane) when on a wheel alignment machine. and wondered if they would even work with roller bearings in a falcon. Toyotas (hilux/landcruiser etc) have beefy units that seem much more durable and i wonder if it's more due to the setup than the actual parts, (like, do they move up and down in the steering arm travel like a falcon with bump steer type movements?) I can't see Me owning another PRE AU even now, but it would be interesting to hear @Thom and @SPArKy_Dave thoughts on a roller bearing type idler arm, I'd have assumed it will still need to be bushed with rubber, and although might be smoother to turn, it would still wear out the bush from the same movement the others had.

I'd rather fit new boots to old original ball joints and tie rods if they aren't sloppy, even if they had done 30,000kms . Idler arms never lasted on My cars, used to need one every year regardless of type/brand. use rubber (Mackay brand) on everything except sway bar and shocks (use nolathane for them for a performance improvement)

this has more to do with the rounded tyre edge to My understanding (vaguely remember it being explained in the motorcycle license ) pretty interested in this escort problem though, after an annoying vibration for so long, i'd take the tyre wear anyway (assuming it's not doing heaps of km, wear might not be a concern)

toe out seems odd. even zero is unusual for most things. will be interesting to see how the tyres wear, but if it's driving well than that's all that matters, with toe out, it will likely feel very confident on turn in, at least that's what one of My cars had once for a very short while (chewed tyres rapidly)

definitely needs something fixed. back in the day, the brothers XB fairmont and XB panelvan would have been fired up and out the driveway in 30 seconds and straight down the road. even with the windscreens covered in ice before hand.