deankxf

they fit XD XE, so XF wouldn't be far off. , there's probably a CRS engine mount kit. i would assume it might need custom extractors , Ihave seen them listed in the past for XD XE so XF likely same .. they are a big heavy lump designed for a truck, may not even go as well as a 302 windsor in stock form which i'd much prefer in an XF if keeping it ford engined. edit.. if you've driven a clevo XE after driving it as a crossflow, you'll know the handling difference wouldn't be worth adding even more weight to one.

they aren't for car shows.. keep the bonnet closed unless checking the oil etc even when they have been heavily modified, they don't really look amazing

that kit above is to fit a Falcon or cortina weber carby onto something like a gemini or datsun (i have one on my gemini currently) the air cleaner adapter on the base should look like this .. if so it will bolt on first, then you put the element on and then the lid. i prefer the stock filter, paint it black and hit the track.. what's wrong with it? *(some XFs even had cold air intake ducting past the battery to them, rather than the hot air these chrome ones are getting)

if you didn't find top dead center number 1 first (before lining up to 10deg mark) then it's most likely 180 degrees out. (the crank turns twice per the distributor rotor button once) so what you can do if you hate future self and just want to see it run (future self might forget you did this) is put the number 1 lead from the spark plug on the number dizzy cap post , and do the firing order from there .. 153624.. so if my brain is correct(possibly too tired to brain it) 1 lead onto number 6 cap post 5 onto 2 3 onto 4 6 onto 1 2 onto 5 4 onto 3 try start it.. if it runs, then dissy is in back to front/180 degrees out.. (timed on number 6 TDC instead of number 1) to fix this, assuming it runs, rotate the engine till the mark lines up on the crank pulley again.. see where the dissy is pointing, if it's at the correct number one spot (where you now have placed number 6 lead) then rotate the crank one more revolution and it will be pointing opposite (where number 6 should be in the "correct" orientation) then pull dizzy out, rotate it about 180 degrees (noting it twists as it goes in a bit) and then you can put the leads back on the correct posts. (future self will like this as some dizzy caps are numbered for your convenience) if it's not that. .. then, it's likely timing related (choofing out the carby is usually either a bent pushrod etc or timing too far out.. most likely 180degrees out in this case in my opinion)

i would say generally yes, the diffs are strong (when not worn out) and the T5 in good condition are also strong. i'd consider getting it checked and new bearings fitted if in the budget, or finding a spare in advance, they are getting old now, the newest being 25yrs old. naturally if you are abusing them anything is breakable.

EDIT** see if you can check if theres' wires in the intermittent wiper relay slot in the area behind the fuse cover but to the left of the steering column, beside the hand brake lever. if there's wires there, you might be able to just plug in a relay from ghia or fairlane etc and the XE wiper switch. when i tried to do do this with My Dads XE it didn't have the wires in the loom for the relay. so it wasn't just a matter of plugging in the relay and adding the switch (from an XE S pack etc) you can get a WIPER DELAY KIT (here's like a bunch of google results) universal kit, we bought one but never got around to fitting it, possibly from JAYCAR ELECTRONICS. XF has a completely different wiper/blinker switch setup and plugs for starters, and with out the wiring in the dash you'd still be probing to tap into what's needed. if i was doing it now, i'd get a wiper delay kit, as some have a dial and you can adjust it for time, the XE/XF ones were wipe every 8 seconds from memory. you'd need to tap into a few wires, but it may not be that hard. (auto elec would likely still charge $200 minimum i bet)

here's what was done in My gemini tune (2018) similar to My clevo dyno tune 25yrs ago 9 May 2018 DYNO DAY i learned a LOT today again, i'll try go through it all with you.. gemini fuel, 98. (oil changed the day before due to running way too rich and fuel in the oil would affect the sensor in his tuning system) when i arrived, it was put on the rollers and a GOOD GOING OVER(to make sure nothing would catch fire, fall off, etc.. blow up even, asked how old the tyres were etc) first run on the dyno, idling was rich and too fast, even when warm(i set it, it had been the best i'd heard it idle) it soon leaned out on the secondary .. carb off to fix an issue i spotted (secondary throttle stop screw) had the valve lash adjusted by him(simple 15min job on the gemini) 12thou on inlet and exhaust is his preference.(hot setting) some were tighter and 2 were very loose. (crow suggests 8thou on the inlet, so does the gregorys manual,12thou for exhaust) checking spark was sufficient, he didn't like the weak spark, and went looking for ways to improve it. ended up hammering the rotor button brass tip to make it closer to the poles inside the dizzy cap. he wanted better spark to widen the plug gap-(which he didn't do.. suggested getting a GT40R coil) with the carby off, the secondary throttle stop was checked, maybe set a smidge less, it was close enough, but the primary butterfly was not centered PERFECTLY in the throat, holding it from going perfectly back to stop, idle jets were swapped left to right because it was idling rich, and the primary was bigger than the secondary(sedondary idle jet is used so you don't get a flat spot as the secondary opens up before it goes to main jet... needle and seat was sus, and was swapped for a second hand one, float level reset because he believed it to be too low. the jets were already soldered and drilled.. they were measured with a set of jet measuring tools, 140 each ish he ran a 144 drill through the primary to be sure with the knowledge that the idle jet being smaller will even it out. the secondary was opened up from 140 to 149(thats 1.49mm) remember there was a home made jet thing, he didn't think it needed to be there "restricting this port" so that went in the bin. the secondary venturi was a loose fit, so that was hammered a bit to make it a tight seal to function correctly.. carby refitted, idle re adjusted, base timing was bumped up from 14(he bumped it up from 12 i had bumped it up from 10ish earlier) to now about 19deg, off we go idle, perfect, mixtures good on primary, transition to secondary now fine he revved it to 5500 for 70rwkw which isn't bad considering i've seen a carby 4.1 XF make 75kw before so.. jobs done. the carby has an issue with the accelerator pump valve, it's one way action isn't working as it should and sends some fuel back into the bowl.. works good enough for now. no choke.. knew that, should be able to live with it ? maybe.. rest of the carby is worn, but working fine. My air cleaner mod he thinks is fine. (stock housing to fit the weber) says even the tiny inlet on it isn't a restriction as V8 holden ones weren't much bigger if at all.(tuning was done with air cleaner housing removed, for access to things) in this tuning, he did go through all the hoses for pollution, check even the fuel cap one way valve was working. how the charcoal canister equiv works on a gemini and countless other things. (he talks way way too much) basically i paid for tuition on extra time.. but i think it's worth it. there's no way i'd have been able to fumble my way through all that in $500 of fuel testing even

Do you remember the cam rev range (advertised) of the stage 1? (no idea what that is, but mine was a gas cam, probably similar) stage one is likely higher than stock, eg, it probably WANTS/NEEDS to be in the higher range to be most efficient, 2500rpm would likely still be perfect for a stage 1. (at 100kmh) mine was dyno tuned, on petrol and gas, well worth it to be sorted. i will copy an example of My gemini dyno tune a few years ago on my gemini. but basically they look at carb jetting, power valve stuff but also dizzy and spark plug gaps and may even suggest cam timing if it feels way off(was an multi keyway timing gear fitted in yours?) what exhaust is on it? too big for economy. WHAT IS YOUR CURRENT FUEL ECONOMY?

@Thom has got good fuel economy from a 351 doing more revs at 100kmh. will need tuning for economy including just fixing things that are possibly worn (timing chain) that combo you have 2.92 diff, would do 140kmh in second gear easy i think (revving to 5500rpm ish) sitting on 2500rpm at 100 is fine, fitting 2.77 or even the super rare 2.53 gears wouldn't make it any noticeably better on fuel. I was chasing better fuel economy on My 351 XE 20yrs ago, it used to use 20L of LPG per 100km on the highway. so i went to the expense of fitting an AOD transmission (american import) this was a nightmare, because it didn't like the 2.92 ratio (was lugging along out of it's cam range at 1700rpm ish at 100kmh) so i had to fit 3.23 ratio, i tried 3.45 but it was then terrible in 1st gear*(lucky for Me they whined, so the diff guy agreed to fit 3.23 under warranty) then it drove semi normal again, it wasn't spritely and quick changing like the C4 i replaced. (the AOD is best suited to a F100 truck that has no need to drive nice) fuel economy .. no different. was sitting on 2000rpm at 100kmh with overdrive. cost .. heaps. ruined the car. what fuel economy are you getting? i'd assume you could get 14L per 100km on a highway run if it's tuned well.

are these on the road? or were you thinking of doing an engine conversion (it's not something i'd consider anyway, too much work.)

@Thom might have a better idea for the sump gunk, (Thom, this is the engine that has a worn out cam and lifters, so all that metal is somewhere also, probably gone through the oil pump at minimum or stuck in the screen?) but i would avoid trying to suck it up the oil pump, if you put kero in the sump and you've got the timing case off now, you can probably get a bendy brush like thing in there (especially with timing chain/gear removed) i'd be pulling the sump off, and checking further (oil pump, pick up screen, bearings etc) but it's a real pain to do in the car. (can be done apparently, but i'd never ever consider it again, we got one ALMOST out and gave up, but had enough access to what we wanted (change a big end bearing i think or rod and piston i can't remember) for Me, i'd pull the engine out. and likely decide on a different engine fit. $1300 for a tidy ANYTHING isn't bad these days, i consider $3000 on the road a pretty much minimum value for a reliable car, and going forward, if that car was going to be kept 3yrs, putting $10,000 into it's reliability if the rest of it is good will pay off in just being reliable and trouble free (generally) for 100,000kms 100,000kms you'd be fitting idler arm or 2, and probably 6 tyres and front brake pads and oil and filter type stuff.. (and double the fuel of a modern small car)

that's likely going to need $4000 into it if it's just as worn, then you'd have the hassle of converting it (adds up to a pain in the ass for not enough gain.. well they sound good) $600 "good running" crossflow is kind of cheap, when you factor in all the muck around. i used to buy a whole XF back 20yrs ago for $500 (rust free, 200,000kms) pull the motor and trans for my spares (doing 50,000kms a year) and sell off the parts and scrap the shell and diff (used to get $200 or so for the parts and call the scrappers for the rest. these days it would be hard to justify buying a whole parts car (i'd consider that if doing a V8 conversion, to get the full everything.. might need to buy an accelerator cable only depending what it was from, then sell off unwanted bits and you'd get some of it back) cost of parts are dear also now, so it's quite expensive to overhaul an engine. low kms on a lot of these era cars, 1980 to 1995 ish can be due to the odometer gear failing, you need to look at wear and tear on the carpet, steering wheel, console, door trim, door hinges and seats etc.. even wiper arms if sloppy indicate high kms. i have seen E series and AUs advertised lately with 180,000kms but when you read into the ad, it says motor has 180,000 car done 360,000 for eg.. the cars would be too worn for My liking with that many kms generally, lots of little things are a ticking time bomb around 400,000 ish in fords unless religiously maintained and cared for.

honestly, if it was mine.. i'd look for another engine and swap it. unless you want to keep it matching numbers, or want to learn, i'd pull it out and put it aside for later. now if it's full of CAM METAL and sludge, the sump/pick up ideally would be looked at/cleaned. got the sump off you should definitely check the bearings .(likely worn) it becomes a question of how much punishment do you want to deal with? (i'd pull the engine, because i am not a fan of heaps of hunched over wrenching these days, up to you though)

this is all to SAVE A HEAD GASKET basically.. (which probably has its days numbered anyway(they don't last forever) i'd say pull the head off.. you'll get HEAPS of access to everything, and it will have a new headgasket when refitted, and in the process if it all looks acceptable (bores, valves, corrosion in head etc) then you can do new valve stem seals if you feel like it and valve grind too. My brother couldn't get the dizzy out of his EB, i managed to just spray it and wiggle it 1mm at a time to eventually get it off, but he could have pulled the inlet manifold off (you could also) for more access for the price of a gasket (no idea what they cost these days)

it's definitely tall, could be part of the issue. see if anyone else chimes in with some advice, if it was an aftermarket bonnet it would have fallen in half already. but the genuine bonnet seemed fairly solid on BGDAVs one above, but it's using the scoop as part of it's structure also.