deankxf

if it's an XE or XF with coil springs on the diff, you should be able to with the car on chassis stands/hoist..just undo the shocks and lower the diff down with a jack so the springs basically fall out of the way.. remove the spring and shock(air) as one and then refit the others any way you like i've never removed the boot hump things, but there might be enough clearance, worth a try if you can't do the chassis stands way. only 4 bolts and you'll soon find out.

putting this here for now, Door trim removal, speaker removal, grab handle etc. (door mechanism and window switches ) i found a better grab handle for the door trim at the wreckers the other week, and needed to figure out how to get the door trim off My car to fit it (already removed at wreckers)

air shocks were usually a bandaid for towing and sagging springs. quite handy for that. big bore shocks are recommended for any stiffer spring. ultima are cheapest, i used Pedders red big bore ones (second hand) koni would be awesome if affordable.

i'd be checking the hoses and their o rings inside the fittings.. the o rings are likely split with age. those air shocks rarely leaked air, but the shock absorbing part gets less effective like any other shock. check the valve where you put air in, could leak there also.

update on this, it's all reliable and fine. nothing to note other than if i had an XG i'd probably stay with the EA to ED engine just to keep a simple swap with no custom junk. this setup just means if another engine is needed, AU engines are plentiful currently. and with the MLS head gasket, unlikely to need a head gasket changed.

nah they've just plugged in and worked for Me on base models other than needing the oil sender. i can't think of anything at the moment that would cause it.

I'd be checking battery wires and the fusible link near the battery I guess. Bad connections possibly Those ghia/fairlane clusters had issues with cracked solder joints also at times. I've fixed a few in the past but don't recall that flashing issue for battery before

the information on the issue for the cluster might start on the previous page to this it was a common issue even 20yrs ago for the S pack clusters, i bought an XF with "low oil pressure" cheap once and the issue was just the cluster.

don't trust the S pack cluster for flashing oil pressure unless it has been tested with a separate gauge, there's a few threads on here now on how to fix that cluster flashing issue particularly on S pack clusters, but the ghia ones have also done it due to cracked solder joints on the board

what is your plan/outcome goal? I don't know the measurement on the spring perches, but an XR (1966) diff will bolt into a 1993 XF ute/van and the only difference being they have a different tail shaft yoke, smaller center bore on the wheels/axle and are narrower between the backing plates(over all width is narrower XR - XY) An EL leaf spring (wagon) diff will bolt into an XF and and even down to an XA (XA and early XB had the smaller wheel center bore like XR - XY) but the diff is basically the same width as XA onwards. AU and therefore probably BA BF FG diffs bolt into EL with the same spring perch, but the AU diff is wider. not sure about the XK to XP, but any leaf spring car XR to AU etc will be basically same between the spring perch. (i think the locating hole may vary in the spring perch also) subject to making sure, this is what i believe. @Thom may know of any other points of interest and/or measurements even

i do wonder if any of these are particularly sought after for exporting overseas.. issues i have with this one, where's the before photos? was it rusty? the odometer cogs stuff up, was it actually broken for 20yrs and stuck on 70,000kms still? can't see the trim on the seat for wear, (seat cover) can't see the floor mat for wear marks/holes (drop in floor mat pictured) can't see the rear van floor for dents (under carpet), had it hauled bricks etc? pretty sure it's missing the wind deflecting panels for the radiator sides, was it in a crash? the bonnet cable isn't run the correct path, the radiator top rubber cover isn't fitted if you look at the door striker it's got a wear gouge in it that makes the suspected hinge area of the doors look like they must be cracked. (not consistent with 70,000kms also) $30,000 in receipts? can't see it. @SPArKy_Dave could pick even more holes in the ad for "Period original restoration right down to the shade of tint" (they never had tint)

is the hole in the bleeder blocked? the hoses can fail and get blockages also. if it works, it works, but if the hoses are sus, i'd change them or at least put them on a list when the budget allows from my understanding, the oil filter should save the crank etc, but the oil pump will be sucking all this junk up unfiltered (just the screen) not sure of anything else, but i'd personally stick another engine in and not even bother rebuilding the other. (assuming the replacement is any good)

cam metal is pretty hard, if it gets anywhere it will do damage.

My Dad did this back 30 years or so ago, it works. gravity bleeding can also work, but if you are having issues, then it's time to try different ways. i recently heard of using a syringe to bleed from the bottom up (on a clutch slave cyl) which would have fixed the issue on My van's air lock under the dash . (i ended up putting a radiator hose on the filler cap and blowing with My mouth over it.

My failsafe trick I invented? (i've never seen a video of it or mention of it) is to get fish tank bubbler hose or clear hose from bunnings etc (not sure what it's used for, but i'd call it one man brake bleeding hose) basically get s bit of rubber hose that fits over the bleed nipple and also the clear hose fits in.. make sure the brake reservoir doesn't get too low in the process, but basically crack the bleed screw and gently push the brake pedal down and slowly up and watch the air bubble go the full length of the hose and even back to the master cyl if you have a long enough length (2meters is enough to watch the bubble/s until there's no more from the drivers seat.