deankxf

I'd assume it will work, i have no idea what the difference FA Vs FB is. they are pretty basic, i'd expect an auto one would work with a manual and vice versa fine also .

if you can find another EST Computer (inside the left kick panel under the glovebox) this is another SIMPLE swap to test. literally would take 10mins to swap over without mucking around with timing a dissy etc. they definitely do have issues (many EST dissy setups were converted to XE dizzy type for this reason) just another option (if you fit an XE dissy, or 1984/1985 XF **Leaded XF) and want to keep the current leads/dizzy cap, you need to get a 1984/1985 XF ROTOR BUTTON in the dizzy (the shaft size is different to the EST/TFi dissy of the unleaded models, so the rotor button cant be used. there's probably a thread on it, but all you need to do (other than re time the dizzy due to removal) to install the XE dissy, is run the 2 wires to the coil (red for + green for - ) and unplug the EST computer.. and it will run as long as it's also in good condition. ***side note*** I did this and left the EST computer plugged in, and it worked for years until suddenly it didnt. i can't remember what the symptom was, but the fix was unplugging the EST computer in the kick panel.. something was playing up in it, i think it was causing it not to rev much, would idle and not rev to 4000rpm etc.

that's odd. i have had a brand new coil no good out of the box about 30yrs ago.. bought one for the reco engine in My commodore at the time, ended up putting the original back on. annoying problems,

for Me, this sounds like ignition issue, not carby/fuel related. but, one more test if you think it's fuel related, is remove the fuel cap (if it's creating a vacuum in the tank due to blocked hoses or fuel cap vent not working, this can be an issue) when My XE blew it's muffler from similar, it was due to the carbon contact in the dizzy cap being worn out, check your dizzy cap inside for the center carbon (spring loaded carbon contact, if it's just the spring or nothing left, this is likely the issue ) the fact that it runs for a while, makes me believe it's the coil or ignition module or EST computer in the passenger kick panel. next time it stops, check how hot the coil is, if it's super hot, it's likely stuffed (can test the theory by spraying cold water on it, sometimes will make it run longer, if so... it's the coil.. it's not easy to test other parts of the ignition system for something that might overheat. as when it cools down, it may end up in range again.

you know more about them than Me at this point. google may dig up some useful info from other forums also, I'd only trust fordforums.com.au only though if joining any older ones (or oldschool.co.nz but they have a very broad range of cars they cover, read the rules of the forum when joining, they don't allow posting in the project threads, they have a separate discussion thread for that, which is great for reading but difficult to catch up on an old thread if there's been suggestions and such)

another option which is more custom is the points replacement electronic ignition (i have one in My gemini) you won't have vacuum advance/map sensor advance , but it would probably go good enough in a happy medium setting(trial and error) the link below is just a random 6cyl one i googled up for reference.. they answer messages if it's the same mob i dealt with, so might be worth a chat (still $100 odd though) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170537391658?_skw=accuspark++6cyl&itmmeta=01KE4A5DFRBXSSMWCNTG1XX2Y8&hash=item27b4d2162a:g:drwAAOSweZhmfmdp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e7zdbSItW1T%2FkdgEhQyYwcYy7cuxjS7aBGexu64XQf1VhHtVAyMAevHUxozFTn2aNASe3As0uAj9CcgPOtLWVo14pC31A0%2FXCA0FQz%2Bv0S8f6DP%2Bs2PFd7CoELGZH%2Bo0AgXt1QgHh1BfuZQlZ5rVPA4ysz5j3jEeLkdFd3TbA1ez1wi%2Bj53ooLSt02oh6%2Fb9HARrm8fLarWr91sBBWWGe1vH0KU8o7mxAIQQX0mR8%2BZJx6pcQfFXw%2FHz9GY27NWxo%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4bYlYrxZg

the bodgy way of fitting EST into the OHC engines used to be to turn the gear upside down (i assume redrill the shaft for different pin position?) this has some people saying it works and others saying the gear chewed out and left them stranded (and put metal in the sump/oil pump/filter) it would get it going easier. to fault find issues in the short term though.

back in the olden days (must be 15yrs ago now, There was a member Aaron Hogan who did this swap, from memory the XF EST stuff goes into the CFi Dissy without issue and is the best option for not mucking around with gears that might chew out etc. I'm not sure if the CFi Dizzy is different to the XG one? @Thom or @SPArKy_Dave may have some ideas? I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern on the cfi injection thing is different to the weber, but it's been done many times, shouldn't be hard to fix that. ***NOTE!!.. on the weber, there's a port on the bottom for the power valve, often overlooked in conversions (people fit them to gemini and holden 6s and valiants etc) if you block this port, it will constantly pull excess fuel (might not be the power valve, might be the low vacuum enrichment circuit, that helps when you are going uphill at low revs with full throttle to add extra fuel) just take care to not block anything on the base of the carby that isn't blocked when it's in the XF manifold.

Diff Breather hose. as the diff warms up, it would build pressure if it wasn't for that breather (would push oil out the seals etc if blocked) sometimes it's long enough to just cut it clean and reconnect it, i've put joins in them in the past using a bit of steel fuel line pipe etc. can probably find one cheaper than this link (first one i found on google) https://superoo.com.au/products/diff-breather-hose-kit-64-70-usa-can-use-on-most-xk-f-za-l-p5-fe?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=e4f862ad5&pr_rec_pid=7724081774818&pr_ref_pid=1955847209048&pr_seq=uniform

I always remember Project Binky saying something along the lines of we will be lowering the car and adding a set of rims.. I think the kids call that "slammed and rimmed" DON'T GOOGLE THAT!

if it doesn't (I'm sure it does.. reason to follow) there will be an adapter available. But, i'm going by my memory here, My brother fitted a clevo in an XF falcon with the ghia cluster and used the XF oil sender (crossflow) I have used the EB (same as XG) oil sender in My XF using the same conversion (EB cluster into XF) and they all screwed in as expected. from memory the clevo had an extension on it so you could get a spanner under it, the XG ones are quite long already, so won't need that extension thing to be used if it has one already.

i've always cleaned them out with a pick/bent small screw driver etc. it's plastic/glue that's in there, it shouldn't be that hard to scrape out. based on this link, it's 3/8 NPT (national pipe thread i think, plumber might have one) this is a different vacuum tree, but it's the same thread. https://www.custommustangs.com.au/xd-xe-xf-xg-falcon-3-port-manifold-vacuum-fitting?srsltid=AfmBOorACJ5X8W-XaLgYH2jcOwa0HH4Fo9mXt5LWlLrd68wGnmAq4S_x

yeah xfalcon was a LONG time ago, there would have been plenty of these conversions back in the days before efi was popular, even 30yrs ago i met someone with an escort and megasquirt (assemble yourself ecu kit) running efi bits and pieces for 400hp goal from a 2 litre (he rocked up with a 1300 with efi on it) most of these low boost turbos of the era are due to the limits of pressure you could run on stock parts (like 4psi not intercooled etc) due to combination of hot air, leaking gaskets and seals or crushing the float bowl.. many were LPG conversions due to a much simpler setup and pollution compliant automatically due to the LPG. you can blow through those carby looking EFI conversions .. what you'd save on the tuning costs would probably cover one

should be able to google the blow through requirements. would be pretty standard, i'd be finding someone who'd tune it and ask what's needed. first google result i found for the carby was on a datsun forum. plastic float is mentioned, i don't recall ever hearing about one, but google found this for Me https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202106654779?srsltid=AfmBOorpSCKBVuVo4LCfd_3xeI4T5NFzXkllCr9Ns4kc__Jnd7WYXu69 first post mentioning the 34ADM below (not much in it really) http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=414372

the GEMINI owners have used the falcon 34ADM for 20+ years, the Carby hat blow through set up is on ebay. LINK HERE if you find the same one on turbogemini .com, i've heard they aren't good at replying to emails or maybe not at all. so i'd choose the ebay option if needed for buyer protection. I don't recall a blow through falcon any time in the last 10yrs or so, but there's people doing gemini turbo with the falcon carby still and the also the cortina carby which is different but similar bolt pattern on the top of the carby. if you want to do it on the cheap and have fabricator skills, the LPG to Impco 300A adaptor has been cut off and 3" alloy tube welded to it, making a similar carby base to center bolt as below