deankxf

Wow, missed this post somehow. when i wanted an XF gear knob about 20yrs ago from Ford Geelong, the only knob they had in stock was an AU one (which looked wrong but felt better than the XF ones) big job by the looks, how's it going?

spewing i sold that car, only needed a replacement engine in the end.. had to move, and no mates were keen to take it on even for parts amazingly.

the odo gears often died in the original clusters,(also wasn't hard to swap in another or even reset the kms) you can not really trust them entirely, the best gauge for Kms is often how worn the carpet/mat, steering wheel and seat and arm rests/console lid etc. (assuming they haven't been changed also) My XF ute had 300,000kms on it, but the interior and cluster wasn't reflecting that, because none of it was original.

yeah i'd expected unless there's a computer thingy that would light a dash light from a low pressure reading in the extra panel, it wouldn't have had an oil pressure "manifold" for the sender AND switch on the engine.. I've seen enough engines to know they only come with one or the other. you could put a T piece fitting in the block and run both, you also shouldn't be too worried if the oil pressure is on the low side with an engine with close to 300,000kms, I've had them idle with the light flickering or the gauge reading low on several clapped out crossflows, they don't die, they will more than likely easily do another 100,000ks without oil issues.. when they are worn out they usually wipe a lifter lobe or just burn a heap of oil from either rings, glazed bores or worn valve guides etc. (they very rarely failed to run, i fitted a second hand lifter to one of My engines every few months from a wiped out cam lobe before eventually swapping the engine. doing about 800km per week at the time.) if the gauges reads enough pressure not to flash, or the switch type put the light out, good enough was good enough for a standard daily car.

you just need an oil sender from a ZL fairlane or S pack XF or even the XE s pack/ghia oil sender will work, EA to ED (extinct basically will also work but are slightly different range, i can't remember if they read higher or lower oil pressure by a small amount but it's negligable) there was no oil light on S pack, but possibly Fairlane ZL or LTD FE may have had some extrapolated thing in the trip computer extra gauge on the dash (were 2 types, one was just a bunch of lights, the other a trip computer.. won't fit in a standard dash though.. you could probably tap into one of the unused light positions on the fairlane cluster, i can't remember what they had.. radiator low level was one of them, use that as an oil light spot if you wanted to keep the on/off oil light. may be others also (shine a torch in the globe holders and see what lights up)

yeah they share the same warning flash.. (if it's got low oil pressure it will flash, or if it's got a battery issue it will flash.) it always annoys me when you see these high series clusters for sale and they haven't included the oil sender.. (it's fine if it's for the same spec level car, but retrofit = annoying and difficult to track down the senders, cheap at least) tacho is likely the needle rubbing on the lense or backing plate in my experience, fragile needles or it's slipped off the pin is another common issue. never seen a fix with the VFDs, (never seen an issue with them actually) so it would be interesting to see a pic of the issue before also.

Harveys is/was very good still, being further out makes it probably less popular for people to risk heading out to (fuel prices so high, probably $25 plus any toll road fees and half a day gone just to have a look if nothing is there) that's where i got My headliner for My AU wagon, far cheaper than even redoing the one i had myself.

SELF SERVE WRECKERS I thought i'd post up something mildly concerning . parts are getting hard to find cheap. wrecking yards and parts getting hard to find. I spotted this car on pick a part's facebook page last weekend(less than a week ago) figured i'd go sus it out yesterday (been sick with some spicy cough/flu/cold thing for 2 weeks and finally came good) this car is almost stripped bare in only a few days. nothing useful for Me in there. Victoria lost a GREAT wrecking yard last year (imlach's in Clayton) they were a self serve wrecker with good stock and prices.. Jolly's Geelong when i went there last year had what i assume were RESELLERS walking around with garden trolleys filled with parts and tools, likely taking advantage of the same price regardless of brand (like a BMW headlight same price as a Kia one for eg.. potential upside to resell?) anything i wanted was basically stripped bare.. same seems to be happening at other yards now, well even more than ever. (the old saying, "they aren't making them anymore" comes to mind..) so consider stocking up on parts that might be hard to find as they wear out (things like steering wheels, seat trim, console lids, tail lights and headlights etc.. )

the only place i use nolathane etc is on sway bar link bushes and D bushes.. gives a noticable improvement. anything else i'd choose rubber (Rubber lasts decades in many cases also)

fixed the sticky handle today. was actually tight on the pivot spindle (under that screw, torx T20) decided to try remove the handle, it's risky, the bolts came out though with ease (they have a locking compound on them) access through the door by removing a grommet once i got the handle out, the area i thought it was catching on, already had clearance T20 torx for this self tapper (could probably cut a slot in it and use a flat head screw driver) washed the handle up, taking photos of how the spring went together sanded the spindle with 320 grit sanded the inner hole .. got sick of that fast after testing it several times with no change taped the sandpaper to a bit and used it like a flap sander in the hole for a while until it was a loose fit. crap video of it not sticking anymore. i wiped some engine oil on it, because i couldn't find my grease tub.. (should probably have put silicone spray on it?) it appeared to have NOTHING on it from factory though? works perfectly after refitting it. also took the opportunity to wash out the dirt from the inside of the door and clear the drains (found some rust also, but door trim covers it fine, non issue)

STICKY DOOR HANDLE ISSUE (outside rear right in this case) could cause your door not to open or close (see above post for possibly more notes on the issue) NOT AN ACTUATOR ISSUE, but Could have been a locked up actuator due to the door handle sticking (not sure) knee pad, look after your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone. I THINK it's a T30 torx.. these screws can be super tight (rusted) i had to drill the heads off some spare doors here to remove the mechs (haven't tried fixing them, but the mech may have parts so i kept them) front left and rear right mechs.. I am working on the rear door, but thought i might need to use parts from the actuator.. (the front one had the stuffed mounting bolts, so it was the sacrificed one if needed.. not needed in this case) not much to see here, but this is the drivers rear one before I cut the zip ties and before the handle lever rod fell out. (take photos, so you know how to put it back together) there was nothing wrong, but i forgot to heed the warning in the video a few posts back about the spring flying off when you remove those geared parts and motor.. (took me 2 minutes to reassemble after looking at this picture of how it was meant to be.) THE OFFENDING DOOR HANDLE (from the inside, rod lever disconnected, and you can see the lever arm stuck down, it should spring back to the top, the rod shouldn't have tension on it when installed) even closer pic arrow pointing to the tight area, I'm going to sand this down and grease it. as long as the lever arm isn't going to be affected by sanding some clearance, i'll give it at least 1mm of clearance if it's easy to do.. (going to try not remove the handle to work on it, as the mounting bolts can also be a problem to undo on these cars) that center pivot screw i don't want to mess with, i can't see how it would be too tight? (however, if it was too tight, i'd mess with it ) and a crap video of My observation for your viewing pleasure.

mine initially wouldn't open.. from either door. now you mention it, i did check the child lock, and it seemed sus also.. but i think it was possibly unrelated to the issue. (found it today, partly fixed) I think the CAUSE is possibly from pressing the lock button (has to be with the remote or central locking) while the door handle is trying to open .THIS ISSUE is due to the outer door handle rod puller sticking in the open position.. (I'm uploading pics for a detailed post now) if it doesn't lock, check back soon on My next post. It could be the outer handle sticking. . this is the drivers side rear, but it would easily be possible on the rear doors (front door handles are a different actuation )

you'd have to look around and see what you can find. try the facebook groups etc for bargains (a mate bought a full BTR transmission from the wreckers with sender unit in it for $165 or something like that. )

had an issue with the AU today, rear door wouldn't unlock, or open.. then later when i was cycling the locks with the lock/unlock button it unlocked and opened, and now won't close (car can't lock either now) guessing i'll be pulling an actuator apart tomorrow . (i have spares, so should be able to fix it in the same way this guy did)

The black 8 pulse one (XD XE) is the rare one The red one is same even on AUs (XF XG XH EA EB ED EF EL AU will all be same) just need to change the gear on the end to suit the EB ratio, the corrector shouldn't be needed. (unless it was in an XD XE, because the red 10 pulse one will read 20% higher with the same gear on it) should be easy to find locally in wreckers, but what often happens to them is one or more wires snaps off at the transducer end, could try soldering it on again if there's enough left on it. here's ONE of 3 on ebay, $150.. seems dear, but ebay is convenient and maybe cheaper if you can find one from someone wrecking one of the above cars https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/298141705342?_skw=speedo+transducer+XF&itmmeta=01KW1MTJT1SWPM4PHT849G9WFN&hash=item456aa1647e:g:UXwAAeSwkQVpvHqb&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCvVWbQijWydBZSB2KR5PfHa3bSEY4Bho3eG9%2FFPKLJDwOZUqAQIlAb2qHdUKtDWH%2FzMkXR73YKkGS4ig94FRBCqWR2yg5OdIDiVeJzFIkKOtG%2BsdKBrKY2zF7z%2BhDgINECUJqJ6ywHooklZXvu2hZf7d1P6NfC6VO54xj130AnMxAZGe2ybcKDT1e%2BiZ7YP5tGpTpjisVQ44M%2FWWRq7BAxRkAVs23GlQmVd8BMtpkUlc7hU4n9MGXsyteo%2BEbT99I%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6Ct6rTgZw