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Oil sender on e series engine is passenger side but closer to the dizzy. Could be difficult to get your hand in there (from underneath is Probably the only way)

apologies for the late reply sorry My brain is a bit fried lately, but to put it simply for you. * there's no adjustment on the caliper. so you can rest assured if the piston wound in enough to fit the pads and mount to the diff over the disc it's good enough. then it says to press the brake pedal a few times (this will push the pads hard against the disc ) then it says to adjust the U shape thing under the drivers seat(under the car) so you have the caliper levers not quite touching the stops. (I've never checked this before.. doubt it matters, but there might be a reason, even if it's to stop wear on the caliper body? that's it. good to go.

if you can show a pic of what the book says, if its' got a picture? if your cable is too tight, the adjustment is under the car near the gearbox you loosen the nuts on the curved cable hook there.

trip computer i think. that's what i was told, the odo will be dimly lit without it. not sure why there's some hack for it apparently, but i haven't seen it here.

not trip meter, (surprised i wrote that) the fancy extra guage the fairmonts have that show distance to empty etc, trip computer?

mate of mine said it's plug and play if you add the oil sender off the engine but.. without the trip meter, the odo will be dim (not able to change odo reading, professional instrument tech might be able to ) fixing the dim odo needs a resistor added somewhere apparently. be worth doing probably regardless.

i've never seen an adjustment possible? if the handbrake lever isn't seized, it will return to the top with spring pulling it back. that's it. if it's stiff or stuck, you need to pull the caliper apart and clean/grease the handbrake internals.

take a pic of these wires, could help. 1,starter to battery wire. + 2.battery - wire to engine block 3.passenger side bell housing to firewall has an earth that is used for the rest of the car normally. 4. starter trigger wire, does it go to a relay? if so the wires/earth for the relay. those are points of interest i'd expect for sparkydave also.

i spotted this on a facebook page 3 speed manual with power steering thought it belongs here.

cutting out while cranking could be a voltage drop issue. bad wires or loose connections. if you don't have to change anything for it to crank again then i'd go with that. but if you are wiggling the gear stick or key to make it crank again then i'd look there also. @SPArKy_Dave think of something else. but nothing is jumping out at me really.

the old FAT starter motors did have this issue called "poleing out" (pole) that i never understood what that meant(possibly a short in the armature) and that makes them weak and often was a result from being cooked by extractors. the smaller E series/AU etc starter is a direct fit and cheap, but they also die from heat. (heat shield is advised for thrashing regularly etc though ,i built one once) if it cranks slow, i'd say it's either starter or the wire going to it or the earth wire to the block need upgrading. the grinding noise, definitely teeth on the flywheel related one way or another.

next time the starter motor is out (5minute job really) see if its' loose. i have heard of flex plate bolts coming loose from the crank, and i also have had one instance where the rivets holding the ring gear on were loose. (most are welded but some were riveted as below) also My Dad's leyland V8 had cracked a flexplate once which may put it out of alignment. it's hard to say really. i downloaded your video, sounds terrible for sure

your video isn't public, You need access Request access, or switch to an account with access. sounds to me by description that the ring gear is fubar though, and changing flexplate would fix it. starters are same for BW and C4 as far as i am concerned, i've swapped a few in the past. tooth count i doubt would be different but it's likely not going to be the same flexplate for both seeing the bw 35 holds on to torque converter with 3 bolts from memory rather than 4 nuts

sorry i missed this, yes, just tap up or down the steering shaft(collapsible) to suit the height change and it bolts straight in. XA to XG (XG pipes different but ultimately the same) pitman arm is different for power steering box also.

i showed a mate of mine this, and he responded with Basically if the XG has XF roof lining and interior light seatbelt same as XF, or if it has XH roof lining and E series interior light, will have different seatbelt location