that's a cool mate to have.. can do tubs without damaging show paint..
what's Painless wiring's reason for using 3mm? is that fine for "most cars" and not good enough for yours or an actual risk of issues to all who've used it?
That’s interesting... wouldn’t imagine doing that to an s pack tho because you buy it to make it look fast and hotted up yet raise it and put a bash plate on it? Anyways whoever ordered it was very particular to make it that unique
Hey fellas !
sorry I’ve been MIA for a while ! I’ve been doin some travelling again this year with the wife to South America n hadn’t done much to the car at all
The whole photo bucket thing shitted me to tears n now it’s back on n been making progress with the car..
the car car has been at the Lecos for a few months n he scrapped the painless wiring kit as it was mostly 2-3mm wire n you need 4mm min with 10amps and was jus easier to start from scratch
he he does it on the side for $50hr n does smik work ! Gunna have a GPS ,remote start, central locking , electric mirrors , power windows , air con, boot popper , n all cool lighting in the car at ur feet n under dash !
its goin to my mates place start of July to be tubbed n jus gunna have to be real careful with the paintwork but he’s done plenty before !
is anyone a guru?
(when i did checks for coil bind it was within limits close but within limits)
Question for the gurus of the cleveland world - im new to all this so bare with me -
my car is: Crane cams Mechanical Roller Camshafts 448801
Crane CAMS - Mech Solid - Dur 284-290, lift .672/.672 - 351W - 3600-7400 rpm
it required triple 99885 (which i have) - Using 1.6 rock ration
closed 215 @ 1.950
open 592 @ 1.320
i have since changed to 1.73 (better geometry cause its a clevo head) i have actually lost power doing this - 6k 310rwkw on 1.6 ratio, 290rwkw @ 6500 rpm on 1.73 - some have suggested its due to the spring pressure being incorrect now and getting valve float- how do i work out what spring pressure i need now ? any help would be great