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  • Topics

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    • Normally around 3 degrees as Sparky Dave suggested. Honestly, it can be 2 -5* as long as your diff angle is the same, but opposite direction. stick angle gauge on manifold with carby off, engine fully installed, or transmission shaft hanging out the back of trans, should be angled 3* down, so make sure the diff is 3* up.     
    • GregAust....they had auto and manual tunnels. Realy. What a stupid thing for a munufacturer to do. Just pick the bigest and go with that!
    • Have measured with a electronic ang ll e level and looks to me like the motor points downhill towards the ground to far. Dont have the angles with me but can dig tgem out. Mainly want to know if the XR have a smaller tunnel than XW XY
    • Im pretty sure i held 5th at speed up there. I don’t remember really having to work 4th. 
        i think once it was at speed, it could hold 5th up hill fine. 
      i can cruise around in 5th at 60km/h for example. 
    • how'd it go up the big hill just past Calder Park Raceway, back to 4th gear and held the speed with the 1600?     
    • Well there hasn’t been much more work on the Escort, even though it still needs some finishing touches. 
        Today however, I drove the car up to my good friend Michael’s house in Sunbury. Michael is the friend who found me this car for sale way back in 2016 when I bought it, and he hasn’t seen it since the accident. I figured it was about time i took it up to him to finally see it finished.
      From place its a bit over an hour, and a good bit of sitting on highway with 110km/h speed limit. 
      Today in Melbourne it was around 29 degrees. The Escort, sat on 110km/h, or a bit more, with ease. That 5th gear has made it such a better car to drive. This was also the furthest from home (as the crow flies) i had driven the car, and the most highway, and highway speed driving it has done. 
      everything was good. Temp was good, oil pressure, rpm, sat on about 3200rpm at 110km/h.  I think today was a really good test for it, and it seems to be good and sorted. I was a little nervous being that far from home in case something happened. 
    • good question,where they factory fitted or dealer fitted ? pretty sure bosch were used in xe anyway,can now buy replicas off e bay and the same fitting kit which goes on the middle bumper bolts,im thinking of fitting some to my xe just for a add on and looks,plus the bumper lip spoiler ,others have fitted hella and all sorts of spotlights,just what ever takes your fancy,but i would stick with the bosch if its a s pack.
    • Hi all,   Would anybody please have the dimensions of the fog lights that were supplied from factory? Also were they Bosch, Hella or something else?   Cheers     Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • thank you for your advice i will takw this onboard 
    • Hi mate, best bet would be to go through the whole engine. I've been down this path and the best bang for the buck was having a set of 200ci pistons for a 1966 Mustang in the block. Cheap casties, but they bumped the compression right up to 11:1 or so with the alloyhead motor.

      That let me run the entry level Crow mechanical flat tappet camshaft for a more aggressive ramp rate, it had about 232@50 and 570 lift from memory, so equivalent to about a 250@50 hydraulic or so. To run that cam I needed rockers, springs, retainers and pushrods. The pistons gave me the compression I needed for it to not be a dog off the line.   Along with a 3" single exhaust, long oval straight-through truck muffler and turndown at the diff it had extractors, intake, ADL2 ignition through a Blaster solid state coil and Holley Brawler carb on an Aussiespeed intake.   The thing went like the clappers with a four speed manual behind it in my XF ute, about the same as a modern BA-BF XR6 (non-turbo) which isn't bad for an old pushrod job.   I think if you're not putting money into a new block with a bit of machining for some basic cast pistons and new bearings you'll probably be disappointed.   If you aren't running new pistons, I'd be looking more at the 14550SS as a maximum which has the following:
      Performance cam heaps of bottom end & mid range, Street /Stock speedway :: 2200 - 5200rpm :: 141550S :: 290 295 duration :: 219 224 @50 :: .510"in .510"ex :: 106 lobesep   That would give you a good streetable engine without opening her right up. You'll still probably need springs and pushrods, though, or you'll just end up with a mess when the stock pushrods bend - assuming they havent already on the stock motor! They are a very long pushrod compared to most basic automotive engines, especially V8's, and aren't terribly durable once you get over about 4500rpm.   TLDR?   So, intake and reasonable carby - I'd highly recommend a 4412 (Holley 500cfm two barrel) on the stock manifold or a slightly improved unit. Easily and widely available and beats the pants off the tiny little 350 which is too small IMO. I wouldn't spend $800 on the Aussiespeed manifold as its better spent elsewhere at this level. Throw a basic HEI style dizzy on or get a timing box and run it from the TFI style (EFI) dizzy so you can set your ignition curve properly. Get extractors and sort the exhaust. Now decide on the camshaft (note above) and install the supporting mods.   That's about it.   It won't be a world beater but it'll sure have a lot more get up and go than the current 100hp lump in there, and feel/sound a lot more aggressive on the road. The 3.55 rear end will get old quick, though, as you'll pull significant revs on the highway. I would leave it til dead last and see how you go with the stock 2.92 unit.   Cheers - boingk   EDIT: Saw you had a 650 mech-sec. Perfect but I'd be wary of using the back barrels too much. I ran a 650 on my solid cam job and it was way too much carb for it.
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