2 kids are walking in the woods when one sees some rabbit pellets on the ground.
"What are those?" he asks.
"They're smart pills" says the other kid, "eat them and they'll make you smarter."
The first kid says, "Really?"
He picks a couple of them up and eats them.
"They taste like sh--" he says.
"See, you're getting smarter already."
You Grinch, ha ha nah I couldn’t agree more. It’s a big money grab where we buy excess shit for people we really don’t care enough about. We rush around stupid trying to fit in a month of activities in a few days worth of time. I’d rather celebrate Australia Day with a snag on a Bbq with true friends but even Australia Day doesn’t seem Politically acceptable any more
As far as I know to get the best bang you want something with a decent exhaust duration and not too much overlap, but that's purely from an efficiency point of view. You can fit it to anything, but the big limitation is ring end-gap and timing. To little gap and/or too much timing will blow an engine easy, as the ring ends butt together under heat expansion and blow the top off the piston and send it through the engine.
I don't know how much the carburetor affects things, but I suspect its minimal in the standard operating range. As you said, the nitrous takes its own oxygen-rich atmosphere in with it as well as its own fuel (for a proper wet shot) so shouldn't need anything from the carb.
Cheers for the advice, I probably should have emphasized the '9.75:1 or more' part of my post though, haha. I'm definitely looking to run some compression in her - I don't want less than 10.5:1 or its not really going to perform how I want it to at all, and I'll have to cam it down significantly to have it not be a complete dog under 4,000rpm. Biggest limiting factor for me is finding pistons with decent specs.
The calculator I use is called 'Virtual Dyno', its a phone app based around a modified version of Dyno2000. Specs I'm working with as follows:
3.685" bore / 3.91" stroke (if I don't need an oversize, depends on what the 'reco' motor is)
0.00 deck height (yep I realise stock is about 0.030" down the hole)
6.8cc head gasket volume with 0.040" gasket
20cc piston dish
47cc head volume
That gives 10.26:1 with little more than a decked block and head with standard .040 gasket. If I can get a hold of 12cc pistons that same combo will be almost spot on 11:1 with a 50cc head. Alternatively, if I get lucky with my C2 heads and can grab a .030" gasket then I'm looking at 10.75:1 with a 20cc dished piston.
It all depends on what the engine pulls down like - that'll happen in the next few days.
Had to make a cover for the inside of the vent panel. No idea what shape it really needed to be to actually work but had to make it so it didn't allow water to get into the car. Any that got pushed in will drain back out the bottom.
Some strong mental gymnastics later...
With the flat section in the middle to allow for the support bar
Well guys finally im getting the photos up haha.
on the way home at last
look, the tail gate locks!!!
Today I fitted up the tail lights to see how the alignment and fit was. Look, the car will never be perfect, but its pretty good. nice to see the tail lights back in.
i tracked down, and pulled out the wires needed for the high mount brake light, and the boot popper. just need to do some soldering and join a few wires back together, and the tail gate will be good to go
I have a few holes to still drill in the tailgate.
- wiper motor mounting holes
- boot popper button
- mounting holes for the actual boot popper
- a small hole at the top of the tail gate for the power supply wire for the high mount brake light to pass through
- and a small hole up top for an earth wire for the high mount brake light