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  3. Merlin's Metalcraft Emporium

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      happy tappy... ūüßô‚Äć‚ôāÔłŹ

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      • gerg
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  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I put oil pump ,timing chain,plate and just waiting for my bolt set

      Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

    • Heaps more parts came can at least put some on

      Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

    • Yummy another set of well seasoned rockers and bolts from the scrapyard bargin price too

      Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

    • I've got oversized Proflow 1 7/8'' 3.5" stainless headers, PFE-EH4085S on my black XE ute, I've was looking to get a set of either them or the TriY version for my S-pak ute, they also have stainless xflow headers, Saw a mate got a set of their E series headers, I'll check them out next time I head over to his place. ¬†
    • Pretty sure it's on the shelf at all Repcos. If not all, definitely the vast majority.

    • Buy some Soft-Seal from your local industrial suppliers, or even Repco/Bursons may stock it? The stuff I bought, is made by CRC. ¬† It's basically a non-drying wax/grease substance, in a spray can - designed specifically for rust protection, of metal machinery parts in storage. ¬† ¬†
    • Nah pretty much nailed it Bear. Myself.... I would loosely assemble it, coating everything in a mix of grease and canola oil, thin it down with turps and spray it on everything with a cheap pump pack from Bunnings. The turps evaporates, leaving behind the oily/greasy film. Assembling it keeps the bits protected inside, away from outside air. I had a virgin 4MA crank go completely rusty just sitting on the shed floor wrapped in an old oily shirt. It's so bad it will need a 0.010 cleanup minimum. I also had a shiny, freshly reco'd crossflow alloy head go completely fucked just sitting in my shed wrapped in the plastic it came in. I think my dog might have pissed on that but you get the gist of it.

      Engine parts rust bloody easily.

      Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

    • If you're talking a year before touching anything, then grease the SHIT out of everything. Get your hands dirty, smear it all over the bores, wind the engine over and repeat. Same as with the head, block face, valves, rods, pushrods, bolts and any part that is machined/shiny. WD40 is crap, don't bother, as after winter all your metal will be rusty.¬† ¬† This means that when you come to rebuild, you will need to wash everything down REALLY well, with thinners or Acetone, to remove all residue. But that's all part of learning, being able to touch, feel, handle all the mechanicals.¬† ¬† Just my 12 cents worth. Others may disagree, but Such Is Life.¬†¬†ūüėĀ
    • As a COVID¬†project I got this Crossflow engine from a bloke that wanted to do an LS conversion for a¬†ZL Fairlane to a skid¬†car. Win-Win as he got some cash and I saved what looked like a good engine from scrap or getting blown-up. ¬† Disclaimer here, this is the first engine I have ever done anything with beyond¬†changing the oil, spark plugs and coolant so I'm not going to pretend I know anything. ¬† The aim was to try and learn something new while tearing it down and¬†confirm it was a decent engine for when I can get a shed built and relocate the¬†XF S-Pack from over the border. The XF should be an 84DA block with OEM¬†carby & intake (if it is still all original). The new engine will be an insurance policy as the plan will be to keep the XF as original as possible although reading through the posts here it looks like the 86DA &¬†HF-7 head are improvements. I did forget to ask for the ECU. ¬† The dismantle went well and the only casualties were¬†the water pump and ISC Valve. Removing the fan without the four bolts that secure the pulley was fun but I¬†got there in the end. Internals looked pretty clean so I'm hoping that the majority of its life it was driven like a Fairlane not a skid car. ¬† The local shop where I get my Family Truckster¬†serviced inspected the block and heads and said they are sound and good for a future rebuild if required. They¬†got the pistons (0.040) off the rods for¬†me and gave the sump, exhaust manifold and rocker cover a clean-up but¬†left the block and head as is. ¬† Everything is home now and the block is back on the engine stand so my plan was to put the following components back together so that I can seal everything up on the stand and stop it deteriorating or¬†anything getting lost / damaged: Sump Block Crank Cam Head Rocker Cover Timing Cover Exhaust Manifold Injector Rail Intake Manifold an Plenum Thermostat and Water Pump ¬† The following parts are now wrapped up¬†and stored away in containers: Rods Flywheel Valves / Springs / Rockers / Pushrods / Tappets Distributor Oil Pump and pick-up Timing Chain and Sprocket Power Steering Alternator ¬† I'm chasing any advice I can get but the things that came to mind first were: Should I be putting all these components back together or keeping them apart, With¬†new gaskets would I bolt it together at¬†a bit less than full torque given I'm just storing not running, and Will a light coat of oil on the internals be enough or should I use assembly lube or grease if it is going to sit for a couple of years ahead of being stripped again for rebuild. ¬† Thanks
    • Gearshift is 30mm further back on an au box
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