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  • Topics

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    • Oh glad it was of use to you mate. Just seeing others do what you set out to do makes you see that it's doable, so you're more able to overcome whatever hurdles.

      Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

    • i wouldnt have done this write up with out you gerg, i read your write up a couple of years ago and that got me interested in the swap.   yes that 2-3 shift is a tricky one 1-3 gates are very close and i find im trying to push it between 3 and 5 but something im getting use to. i feel like you've got to push straight forward for the 2-3 shift and the single rail you follow the H and come toward your self.     i'm liking the short 1st more as well, car parks and my drive way are now easier to navigate coming from a 2.82 1st. as well as when doing a full throttle run from a stand still it easy to get off the line but you've still got enough time to grab 2nd before red line.
    • I'd be interested to see if you can get the BTR to give firmer shifts along with more rpm on board, also if there's an ignition cut/retard function on upshifts like BAs seem to have (or is that drive-by-wire throttle dipping) to reduce the "thump" you get with the upshift, and to speed up the shift without flaring or slipping.

      I also wonder if any automatic shops out there that rebuild these have come up with a fix for the over-run clutch issue, where they let go at anywhere between 150 and 200k and from there you get zero engine braking (straight to idle). Even manual shifting makes no difference.

      Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

    • I don't think it will be mate, it's torque that kills gearboxes, not horsepower. And big blocks are known for having cubic amounts of low end torque

      Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

    • Nice write-up... It's uncanny how similar your swap is to mine, with the following differences:

      * My engine's a mild 302C

      * I used a Toploader bellhousing and made up a slave cylinder mounting bracket (it was for an F-truck mechanical clutch with no slave).

      * I filled the old bolt holes with cut off bolts and silver soldered them in, and the top T5 mount bolts are M12 wheel studs soldered into the bellhousing. Bottom ones are just drilled and tapped. The mount face on a toploader bell extends far enough down for the standard T5 lower bolts to meet, hence the reason for choosing the toploader one.

      * I originally had 3.27 gears (from an XG ute) but went over to 3.08s when I redid my diff. It sits on about 2000 doing 90. The T5 is from my old EA so 5th is 0.78 and 1st is 3.50. like you said, it's a bit short but on the plus side, doesn't need too much clutch slip to get going.

      * I used an EL wagon alloy tailshaft as it's the right length and was 30 bucks.

      * I eventually went to a 3/4" trailer-type master cylinder and a Jaguar 7/8” slave, the master previously swapped because I'd already chewed out 3 of the standard 5/8” ones and got sick of being stranded. You can pick up a trailer master cylinder at any parts store, so I'm covered there. The Jag slave was to get the bore ratios back closer to standard (clutch was very heavy with the 1:1 ratio).

      * I'd previously made my shifter into a short-shift by spacing up the pivot plate and extending the ball pivot by the same amount. I also made a new stick out of some water pipe, put some bends in it to point it more toward the driver and solid-mounted it to the lower part, eliminating the slop in the rubber bushes they come with.

      * My mileage didn't really change much from the single rail, maybe by 1L/100 km but the biggest change came from doing up a 650 spreadbore pumper for economy. It's an outstanding street carby, it's the 4th one I've had on it and is the best. I'm now getting 15L/100 fairly consistently, with lovely low speed smoothness yet no need for a choke in winter.

      I can't say I'm a huge fan of the T5, it's nowhere near as nice to shift as a tight single rail, and the 2-3 shift under power is always baulky and leaves you fumbling.

      I have a write-up on my install somewhere on here, starting from about 8 years ago.

      Anyway nice work mate, hope it makes a difference for you.

      Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

    • Awesome thanks mate, if anyone has more to add it would be very much appreciated 
    • great write up! i've pinned this so people can refer to it easier than searching for all the other bits and pieces   into XE and XF you can use the XF T5 cross member (also EA has this but they are probably more extinct) pretty sure CRS make one also. but extending the single rail/auto one also works as you've done with the XA,XB,XC cross member.
    • Pic

      Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

    • while reading about the t5 thread before,in rememberd i had an idea of putting a single rail behind this 472 c.i,a shop sells a big block alloy bell to suit top loader or single rail,as its not a race engine,its 100% stock,a 008 351c xc xd xe single rail should be fine imo.
    • i did this once with the eb/xg t5 into a xe with mild 351c,i did use the rod shop bell,at the time cost $750 as i had plenty of coin to throw at it and didnt want to go down the path you did,but nice work ,i remember reading somewhere there is a t5 with 2.95 first gear,could be a eb v8 ?.
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