I am still thinking it has something to do with the 1st planetary thrust. It was a bigger issue on EL to BA2 because they had a sharper helical cut to the gears, causing more end thrust to the planetary hub. My brother in law's XR6T had its gearbox lunch itself in this manner and the gearbox bloke said that the common fix was to put the earlier planetary in to handle the torque.
But I digress.... Short of getting the box swapped or overhauled, maybe you could try some kind of additive or change the oil to a higher quality type, to try and possibly reduce the friction creating the noise.
In my time working on Mercedes buses, many auto shift problems were cured by a simple oil change. Maybe start there?
That whirring noise never happens in D, only in 1. Even though it takes off in first gear in D. Even without eco mode.
Here is a clip where the car is behaving itself (no weird noises). First clip taking off in D, second in 1.
and here is a clip taking off in D, where the car lets out a little whistle sound (the noise im trying to get rid of) (around the 5 second mark).
It sounds like a noisy 1st gear planetary thrust bearing. The weird thing is how you reckon it only does it when manually shifted. It should start off in 1st when in D as well. Could you try turning off Eco mode (ie put it in power mode to make it shift to 2nd later) to try and get that noise to happen in D?
ok here is a video of the noise it does sometimes when you take off with the gearstick in 1.
the camera didn't really pick it up the first time but you can definitely hear it the second time at 0:19 in the vid.
Again only does it with the gearstick in 1 not D. and only sometimes.
Any ideas what this is?
Hi All. I'm hoping someone might be able to fill in some of the blanks for me on an engine I've just bought - it's a cleveland 351, 2 bolt mains with 2v Aussie heads.
The casting is D2AE-CA & 7B28 : So cast 28th Feb 1977
Engine No: AL4KTA51612K
A = USA L = Broadmeadows (Commercial) Ass'y Plant 4K = ? T = 1977 A = January
51612 = serial number K = ?
Any help appreciated.
Hey mate, there was a xy that recently ran 10.7 at Calder park. The car runs a H pattern 4 speed toploader, I think Paul Rogers built the gearbox maybe give him a call. Toploaders are not cheap to rebuild and generally the gearbox builders use second hand gears ect with new gaskets, syncros and bearings, close to $2800.
Back in my apprenticeship days, a fellow worker reckoned you fixed the poor shift quality by drilling tiny holes through the syncros to let the oil out and help them bite. Not the first time I have heard this.
Are you running the right oil? Don't run an EP (diff) oil in a gearbox otherwise the syncros have an even harder time biting with the EP additives. Go for a heavy engine oil or a specific light (non-EP) gear oil.
EP oil will also eat the brass in the syncros over time.
Your box may well be worn. If you pull it out, pop the top off it and look at 3rd gear syncro. It's the second from the front. It should have nice pyramid-shaped teeth around it, not rounded off or flattened. Also try and rotate it back and forth. If it moves further than the width of one dog tooth (as in half a tooth each way), the ring is worn internally and the box needs to be stripped.
If first gear seems really short, you don't have a close ratio I'm afraid. Close ratios are made by having a lower primary reduction (the input shaft/layshaft gear ratio) to reduce torque multiplication. All gear ratios are subsequently taller due to this.
Conversely, in a wide ratio, the primary gear reduction is greater, so the gears have a greater multiplication of their ratios (and torque) and is more suited to heavier vehicles.
Close ratio has a higher torque capacity, wide less so.
Unfortunately, changing ratios means the entire gearset in the box, not just one or two gears. There might have been two, maybe three different sets you could get from memory.
Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk