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  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oops yeah forgot that one Bear, the top brackets that bolt the mount to the block sometimes overlap the sump rails and need to be loosened to get the sump down.

      Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

    • Yup, like that....^ ^ ^   Must remove bolts from engine mounts, and raise engine a but to get sump out, as Gerg said. 
    • If just doing timing cover, you won't have to completely remove the sump. You'll only have to drop it far enough to clear the half-moon seal on the end of the timing cover to sump, which youvll easily clear just by pulling all the sump bolts and letting it rest on the crossmember. You can even keep the oil in it till you're done (to flush out any crap that falls in). I did my camshaft(s) like this.   In my XE, I wasn't dropping the sump to remove the timing cover, just changing the oil pump. For future reference, it might be handy for yourself or anyone else to know how to pull the sump in-chassis. I pretty much did as you've described but had to undo the engine mounts and jack up the engine as far as I could. I threw a block of timber between the mount and the chassis bracket on each side to support the engine and be free of the jack on the sump or front pulley, both of which you'll have to pull off in your case. Then the sump came off no probs (with swaybar dropped but not removed from links).   As for repairing the timing cover, you really need to remove it to get a good repair on it. I would drill out the old bolt hole, and install either a nutsert (ie: riv-nut) or spot-weld a standard nut to the back of the cover for the bolt to thread into. Alternately, you could just nut-and-bolt the water pump to the timing cover and install both together, only problem with that is if you ever do another water pump, it's a timing cover off again job, otherwise it will just spin or fall off into the sump.   You will have to remove the balancer to get the cover off. This requires a puller tool. Once off, the cover will pry off pretty easily. Going back on, the sump goes on last to ensure that the half-moon seal doesn't pop off as you're tightening the cover on. A bit of sealer should go on each end between the pan rail gasket and the half moon.   Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk        
    • Hi,I have a screwed water pump bottom thread on a 351 Cleveland xy and timing cover plate looks dodgy anyway have a few questions best way to deal with this.Q1 it’s it possible to drop sump without  lifting engine out I have standard sump and have 45/50mm clearance to x member will the sump baffle clear if sway bar removed pulling sump forward and down. Q2 when sump removed is the timing cover plate straight forward to fit around the crank keyway area. Q3 Or do I fix dodgy water pump thread to next size up on timing plate   
    • I have never blockfilled a motor but most will fill up to the bottom of the welch plugs, tipping the block 45 degrees so one bank is filled vertically, left to set, then the other bank is filled after tipping it 45 degrees in the other direction. Fill it any higher than the bottom of the welch plug holes and you will run into cooling issues. On a 302, it will be less of a problem as the stroke is 1/2” shorter, meaning the piston sits at BDC higher in the bore by that amount, and cooling the bores only really matters where combustion takes place above the piston.     Are you looking at turbo/supercharging/nitrous? I would first get the block sonic-checked, particularly if it's a later black block, as they were a bit of a lucky-dip in regards to core-shift. If you find a thin cylinder, and don't have a selection of blocks to choose from, you may have to sleeve it. That can get expensive.   Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk                  
    • Hey all, Looking for some advice blockfilling my 302 Cleveland. Has anyone done this before and have any advice to share with regards to proceedure, hight of filler, watter flow direction and path through the filled block/heads and any photos of proceedure and results? Cheers for the help in advance
    • i think this might have been why my preload was also up the wazoo when i did My clevo.. perhaps the valve heights were all different to original after being installed with ground valves/gas seats etc..   only just thought about it after reading that.. (some of mine needed shimming, some needed grinding the pedistal. block and heads were surfaced also and the heads werent' original to My block)
    • Quick update. I spoke to the fellow who's doing my 302C heads, they came up well with no cracks and already have brass valve guides in them. Beauty. The downside is that the valves are shot, they've been previously machined and then used on LPG so are not good to reuse.

      I sent him a set of valves from another set of open-chamber 351C heads I have so they should work fine. The new springs and seals are also there, and I've opted to get hardened exhaust seats installed so I won't have to worry about them in the future. He said it'd be for the best as the seats show some signs of wear and after a valve job may end up further recessed.

      All in all its going along swimmingly.
    • Yeah seen the clevo setup, they chopped up 3 4V heads to do it. Not impossible with furnace welding or using a cast iron rod, like that guy who cut and welded 2 x 302 Windsors together plus 4 clevo heads to make a boss V12

      Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

    • Indeed they can. So can 351C's... and I just happen to have a few. Mind you the LS's would be much easier to work with.     I saw that! I won't spoil it for anyone who hasn't watched, but the output with a standard cam is fairly decent. Aussiespeed do a manifold for them and that'd be the way I would go if I were to do it. The stock head can be worked a bit, plenty of info stateside on it. It's no Barra, but it'd be interesting purely from a 'what can I do with it' point of view. 
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