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Yeah it fucken tickles, that's for sure.
Both boxes I've stripped already had roller tops on them so sorry no conversion this time. I do believe that the 2 types of bearing housings are different but the bushed one can be converted by machining it out very slightly to take the Torrington race. There is a thread on here from 5 years or so ago, which goes through that process.
One of the boxes is too far gone with the internals, so I pulled down the sector shaft and found some interesting things that I didn't know about before. I'll document them as soon as I can get good pics.
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Mother fu$ker that’s a good one.  i look forward to seeing how this goes. Are you going to do the roller bearing modification? I have never seen this done before. -
Ok after putting up with power steer fluid on my driveway (and on the parking spot at work) for too long, I finally ripped the box out and decided to put a seal kit through it. I haven't done one before, so this will be a tutorial on the fly (I will be learning as we go).  V8s are a right pain to do, you have to pull out the starter then either jack up the engine (what I did) or pull the RH extractors off to physically remove the box.  The Pitman Arm was buggered (sloppy ball joint), so I needed heat and a puller to remove it. Initially, I wanted to save the arm and try and gently heat it with a heat gun to get it to pop.  Put some force on it with a hydraulic puller and that launched itself into the wall behind my bench. So I leant down to pick it up, and didn't watch where my hand was going. It landed straight on the tip of the heat gun I was just using. This is the result:   This is 3 days later.  So first casualty and all i've done is strip the one box plus a spare.  Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk  Â
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If you put the lines the wrong way (if that's even possible), I think something would blow out or the rack just wouldn't work.  If you pop the rod ends off the steering arms and work the rack left and right, you could find out if that resistance is in the rack or if something else is wrong (bent ball joint or suspension part)  Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk    Â
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By DemonHunter · Posted
Turns out that the rack in it is a original but l got it all done in the end a mate gave me a intermediate shaft from what ever it was an the end fitted the rack no problems so l took it off an fitted it to the ef intermediate shaft and bingo wheel straight when wheels are straight ahead  which is awsome but only issue now is that it’s tight when turning the steering wheel none of that sorta spring bounce back when u rock the steering wheel  like it did before l changed the rack. Could it be because the new el rack had sat for some time wrapped an covered up ?? I purged it of air and every thing but it sorta feels like bloody Manuel steering to a point when stationary to turn but not as tight even with front of the ground it’s tight an that was before l even fitted the new intermediate shaft so l could see if it leaked or not from the lines  Or could l of possibly put lines on the wrong way?? -
By CHESTNUTXE · Posted
Finally going tomorrow
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Hi all, need help been annoying the crap out of me! Ford xf Ghia efi, was running and driving fine, turned car off then on about 5 mins later no fuel! Changed the fuel pump with brand new Bosch, also tried 3 different green fuel pump relays, car will start for 5 seconds if I jump the relay from 2 pins. Connections on fuel pump look good aswell! Anywhere I’m missing? Does anyone have a full wiring diagram of the pump relay ect? Cheers
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In that case, you would just use your old coil + supply as the MSD has its own coil +/- leads completely independent of the existing wiring. The ignition + into the MSD is only a trigger to turn it on, it gets its actual power from the fused battery supply.
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By CHESTNUTXE · Posted
i had this problem when setting up my msd,needed 12v switched power
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