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    • small carby worked.. put it back on for now.. bolt the diff in.. probably a half day job if you take your time.. .. how old are the wheel cyls.. if they are reasonably old i'd buy new ones because i've had them leak when disturbed.   first thing i'd do is loosen all the brake lines now to make sure if you break one because it's rusted in you have time to get that fixed alsor buy the new oil and brake fluid to have on hand .   for leaf diffs i now undo the shackle rubbers at rear to save lifting the diff over the springs.. depends what's easier(betting escort one is much much lighter than a disc brake falcon one though.)   should be possible. 
      i'd be more thinking the secondary venturi is loose and not drawing fuel rather than being blocked. but if so, that should be easy fixed.. jet comes out easy.. they are probably 1.4mm jets on the secondary.. whats going to block that?  sure it's not too rich on the secondary and bogging down?  
    • Well ive heard these standard diffs are pretty weak, and i dont drive it hard, but ive been told the 1300s will break them.    As for the wheels, they maybe look a bit poxy, but cant go passed them for how light they are.    Just as i thought i couldnt have any more issues, i was wrong. I now have carbie issues. I swapped the carbies today, and fitted the 32/36. Well, its got problems.  The weber i had on the car, turns out the fuel jet for the secondary wasnt pumping fuel into the barrel at all. May explain why its been leaning out up in the rpm under load.  So my options are, revert back to the smaller weber and try get the second fuel jet working.  Try get the 32/36 running properly, or,  borrow Michael's 32/36 (rebuilt) for the short term to get the car running again...Michael's is a 2.5hr return trip     and im being told if at all possible i need to have the car in geelong in a week. So i have essentially 3 days (taking into account work hours) to get the diff changed, and the engine running again. 

    • Glad it makes some sense. Its hard to translate a fluid process into pictures and words. The videos will help people that haven't seen this in action before but as I said I have a different method to that shown. I differ only in the small details of execution though, the process is the same. I would have hammered the whole panel out on the first video and then shrunk it back down, would have been quicker and less mucking around (he took many hours to do that). Second video clearly shows oil canning and is similar scenario to what I was dealing with on the kombi.
    • And there it is in etch. Sorry for all the same-same photos but its hard to know what can be seen as you take them. You'll see the area of focus in the last one. It's still a touch high but each time I brought it low enough, it would become unstable again. Its a bit less than it seems because the edge is slightly pushed in from the sideswipe. I wasn't able to pull that all the way back out due to the seams and inner support holding it in place. If pulled it would simply tear.

      So what do I do different to those videos? I don't burn the steel until its blue every time, that's not necessary to shrink. It will happen if you stay on a small high spot long enough and when that is the target I do it on purpose. Neither of the guys in those videos cooled the panel enough before attempting to read it and continue shrinking the panel. I use water and air in tandem. My disc is like the small one the first guy used and I use the flat face of it not the edge like the big waffle disc of the second video. I make a few passes, constantly feeling the steel move and react under me as I go, usually less than 10 seconds ,often only 3-5sec. Then a spray bottle to mist some water with a hint of detergent so the surface is wet (often steams, its a good gauge of temp and shocks the steel down quickly), then air to dry and evaporate the water further cooling until dead cold like the surrounding steel.

      Hands are my eyes a lot in this. I feel the movement as I'm heating and I feel the high/low of the panel to know where to hit next. You'll learn quickly how to manipulate the metal to change its behaviour, sometimes from unexpected areas. For instance I was reducing the oil canning at the bottom by shrinking the top to pull steel upwards and tightening the panel as a whole.

      Hit me with the questions so I know what I've missed covering.
    • i'll watch those videos in the morning i think. but i can see the way it works and was impressed by the video i first saw on it.    your explanation is perfect once you(anyone reading it) have experienced oil canning(where the panel pops in, and stays in or doesn't flex and come back?)   and anyone that's hammer and dollied something so thin that the panel has a bulge(dome shape). i've seen them cut and and pushed back and rewelded to remove that in some cases too. but the shrink would fix that if done right i guess.     
    • If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI.   Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability)   If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast.     
    • Its not really difficult to do but would take a bit of practice to "read" the panel and what its doing compared to what you need it to do. Thought process is a bit like, there's a low here (can't shrink a low directly) and a ripple next to it, if I shrink the ripple then the low will be pulled up towards the ripple, giving a flatter area over all.

      Like to tighten up the canning I'll shrink the last inch width near the panel edge. The edge will resist moving but steel has to go somewhere when it cools, so the stiffer edge pulls the looser metal towards it. Takes the slack out of the steel and no more oil can.

      "Understandable, all these things take time and patience to learn the art I guess.
      Ah okay I get you a bit better now. Yep completely get it. Sounds kinda tricky to get right tho. I wonder what it’s like on harder panels with body lines etc"

      Still works the same but you'll have more trap points where oil canning can't get past, ie it does it between two bodylines but not on the other side of the lines.

      From there I worked further around the panel as a whole, pushing and pulling at the tension of the steel to get it as flat and stable as I could.

      I messed around with a few spots after that, but eventually got to etch it.
    • I'll start by pasting in my explanation and photos to Matt from the other day.
      This is the focus at the moment. There was a large high from a side scrape that ive already dropped quite a bit. Some wonky wobbles above it as well. I'll give this a bit more and see if I can show the difference.

      See the dark lines, thats where the disc touched the surface. About a four second hit, then cool and dry.

      Purposely shrunk down to take out the ripples along the line on the panel. Its too far but from here it can easily be tapped up to the right height with less chance of canning. I'll shrink around the edge of the low to pull it up a bit as well.

      This is just two passes around the top of the low. It's not stable but you can see its coming back up. No hammer yet.

      You can see how I've been working up the panel to sort some areas up top, but also to slowly pull the excess away from the low at the bottom. Its now only canning lightly there by a couple mm

    • Well yeah they move heaps basically any way and the flanges allways need machining , it will get clamped to a big heavy plate with it bowed backwards slightly , then yeah weld the hard ones first , cut whole runners off if needed to get to welds , then the easy ones . Then i put it in the mill and run a fly cutter over the flanges .

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • I'm all for hopping up the 250, good engine to learn on. Solid and simple, no real snags when screwing them together.

      You can delete the restrictive (and poorly placed) airflow meter/air cleaner from above the exhaust, plumb it to a cooler spot and run a later (MAFless) e-series computer with a J3 chip tune. Never done it but it's definitely a thing. E-series throttle body could be adapted (?), not sure how much cam the ECU will handle before chucking a shitty but not too much overlap, say a mild 208/208 on a 110 lobe angle would give brilliant midrange. Install better valvesprings, roller rockers (spacer needed on rocker cover if keeping the EFI one) extractors and 2.5" exhaust. 9.5 compression would be safe. Late model cat could easily be adapted.

      The inlet manifold is OK, but the EA-ED log is better. If you know anyone who can TIG aluminium, you can graft one onto the injector plate that the bunch of bananas normally bolts to. This solves the problem of having to plumb up to the throttle body that's originally on top of the engine. Either that or make up some sort of adaptor plate for it.

      Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

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