Rod Racer

I have a complete running crossflow from a Bronco, if you are interested.

Not 100% sure, but check the fuse box carefully, sometimes the dash light fuse isn't the same as the tail light one.

The headlight switch might be the culprit for the dash lights. If can find a good one to try, that might narrow down the issue. If the car has a towbar, check the connections where the trailer plug wiring taps into the factory harness. If they used scotch locks, it may have severed the tail light section due to age or vibration.

075 / M75 gears sets have a 7.5" ring gear diameter, 078/M78 is 7 3/4" dia. They are NOT interchangeable and have different carriers to match. I have seen M75/075 carriers with 28 spline axles, however, these are rare.

I was planning on using the Hoppers Stoppers 13" brake kit with the twin piston PBR calipers and appropriate pads, covered by AU S1 XR wheels and spacers. For a 'budget' brake set up, use good quality slotted rotors and the old Girlock calipers from XA and early XB falcons (with the wire retainer on the outside pad.) These calipers have a good sized pad to spread the heat and friction area really well. Metal king plus pads will give you good stopping power on the street with minimal fade, however, for track use, find something a little more aggressive. On various cars I found that in racing conditions, the places where brake performance matters is Sandown at the end of the front straight and Calder Park for the same reason, and from others experience, the Chase at Bathurst.

I use Delta 40's, not 44's. 44's are race mufflers, whereas the 40 is quieter. I have the 3" resonator/Delta 40 2 chamber combo on my F truck and it's quiet enough to be ignored on the street.

All depends on what I'm setting up a Clevo for. Mild street: Tri Y Headers to 2 1/2" Y pipe to 3" collector, 3" x 12" hotdog (with perforated internal tube, not louvers) for front resonator and Flowmaster Delta 40 3" muffler with 3" tail pipe. Hot street/ drag: Tri Y headers with larger secondary pipes (min. 2 1/4" or even 2 1/2" to dual 3" to 12" x 3" hotdog resonators and dual 3" Flowmasters with dumps. A 2 1/2" balance pipe just before the resonators.

Is the fluid level is correct? No noise? Possible stator one way clutch failure in the convertor. Turns it into a fluid coupling. Lots of revs, not much go.

IIRC, there is a sender is in the right rear of the cylinder head. However, the temp sender (I think) is in the thermostat housing. Replace the gasket between the intake manifold and cylinder head AND the injector O rings and the miss(es) should disappear. There is an edge on the injector ports that can/will cut the O rings, so be careful inserting the injectors into those holes. Ask me how I learned that( the hard way).

You are correct, I probably should have spell checked All good, Mate, figured it was a typo.

All factory 5.0L engines mid 1981 and later were 50 oz balance, both the earlier (pre '85) flat tappet and roller engines. 5.8L engines, flat tappet and hyd roller are still 28 oz.

50 ounce imbalance, not 58. I have several of these engines.

Try something. Bolt the spacer plate, drive plate, and bellhousing back on and run the engine without the trans. Curious to know if there is any noise WITHOUT the auto. Also, did it make the same noise prior to the auto rebuild?

May be contact with a buckled sandwich plate. Don't assume it's the correct flex plate, make sure. Yes, undo the nuts and see if you have some movement in the convertor on the studs. Should have 2 - 4 mm movement, at least. More could be an incorrect flex plate (unlikely, but possible).

Just listened to the video. I'm gonna say, that is the flex plate rubbing on the sandwich plate. Either the plate has a dent or buckle in it, causing it to rub on the flex plate and/or convertor nuts/studs, or the convertor is not fully seated and is forcing the flex plate forward to touch the sandwich plate. If you had this same noise before, something isn't sitting right there. The other cause could be using an aftermarket manual starter, which has a shorter snout, it could be interfering on the flex plate teeth. The factory used a spacer under the standard factory starter because the flywheel ring gear sits closer to the block rear face than the flex plate does. The whine I had in my C4 was MUCH quieter and more high pitched.