Rod Racer

Not 100% sure, but check the fuse box carefully, sometimes the dash light fuse isn't the same as the tail light one.

The headlight switch might be the culprit for the dash lights. If can find a good one to try, that might narrow down the issue. If the car has a towbar, check the connections where the trailer plug wiring taps into the factory harness. If they used scotch locks, it may have severed the tail light section due to age or vibration.

075 / M75 gears sets have a 7.5" ring gear diameter, 078/M78 is 7 3/4" dia. They are NOT interchangeable and have different carriers to match. I have seen M75/075 carriers with 28 spline axles, however, these are rare.

I was planning on using the Hoppers Stoppers 13" brake kit with the twin piston PBR calipers and appropriate pads, covered by AU S1 XR wheels and spacers. For a 'budget' brake set up, use good quality slotted rotors and the old Girlock calipers from XA and early XB falcons (with the wire retainer on the outside pad.) These calipers have a good sized pad to spread the heat and friction area really well. Metal king plus pads will give you good stopping power on the street with minimal fade, however, for track use, find something a little more aggressive. On various cars I found that in racing conditions, the places where brake performance matters is Sandown at the end of the front straight and Calder Park for the same reason, and from others experience, the Chase at Bathurst.

I use Delta 40's, not 44's. 44's are race mufflers, whereas the 40 is quieter. I have the 3" resonator/Delta 40 2 chamber combo on my F truck and it's quiet enough to be ignored on the street.

All depends on what I'm setting up a Clevo for. Mild street: Tri Y Headers to 2 1/2" Y pipe to 3" collector, 3" x 12" hotdog (with perforated internal tube, not louvers) for front resonator and Flowmaster Delta 40 3" muffler with 3" tail pipe. Hot street/ drag: Tri Y headers with larger secondary pipes (min. 2 1/4" or even 2 1/2" to dual 3" to 12" x 3" hotdog resonators and dual 3" Flowmasters with dumps. A 2 1/2" balance pipe just before the resonators.

Is the fluid level is correct? No noise? Possible stator one way clutch failure in the convertor. Turns it into a fluid coupling. Lots of revs, not much go.

IIRC, there is a sender is in the right rear of the cylinder head. However, the temp sender (I think) is in the thermostat housing. Replace the gasket between the intake manifold and cylinder head AND the injector O rings and the miss(es) should disappear. There is an edge on the injector ports that can/will cut the O rings, so be careful inserting the injectors into those holes. Ask me how I learned that( the hard way).

You are correct, I probably should have spell checked All good, Mate, figured it was a typo.

All factory 5.0L engines mid 1981 and later were 50 oz balance, both the earlier (pre '85) flat tappet and roller engines. 5.8L engines, flat tappet and hyd roller are still 28 oz.

50 ounce imbalance, not 58. I have several of these engines.

Try something. Bolt the spacer plate, drive plate, and bellhousing back on and run the engine without the trans. Curious to know if there is any noise WITHOUT the auto. Also, did it make the same noise prior to the auto rebuild?

May be contact with a buckled sandwich plate. Don't assume it's the correct flex plate, make sure. Yes, undo the nuts and see if you have some movement in the convertor on the studs. Should have 2 - 4 mm movement, at least. More could be an incorrect flex plate (unlikely, but possible).

Just listened to the video. I'm gonna say, that is the flex plate rubbing on the sandwich plate. Either the plate has a dent or buckle in it, causing it to rub on the flex plate and/or convertor nuts/studs, or the convertor is not fully seated and is forcing the flex plate forward to touch the sandwich plate. If you had this same noise before, something isn't sitting right there. The other cause could be using an aftermarket manual starter, which has a shorter snout, it could be interfering on the flex plate teeth. The factory used a spacer under the standard factory starter because the flywheel ring gear sits closer to the block rear face than the flex plate does. The whine I had in my C4 was MUCH quieter and more high pitched.

Never had any issues using headers (Tri-Y or 4 into 1's). I'm sure I DID have a dipstick and tube for a C4 somewhere, I'll have to have a look.

My advice (hard earned) is to use the FACTORY tube and dipstick. Do NOT assume an aftermarket tube and dipstick will read correctly (almost all do NOT). I know this from bitter experience. The AOD in my F100 always spewed out fluid from the breather at the 'correct' level, until I sourced a factory Ford tube and dipstick, to find it was almost a quart overfull. Now, no more breather spillages and no more frothing fluid trying to exit the tube when checking. Just my $0.02.

I could have sworn it was just a blocked filter, obviously, I was wrong. It appears there are other issues causing your problems. I'd be going back to him and complaining. He might fix the problems, he might not (most likely).

You know where to find one if that fails.

The harness appears to be intact, except for the RH headlight plug, which has been replaced with bullet connectors. Otherwise, it should be fine. $150 plus postage, or you can arrange pick up. I'm next to Bendigo, in Victoria, and down in Melb monday.

I have such a harness. I'll have a look at it tomorrow, when I have a chance and make sure it's ok. It is a genuine V8 harness, not sure if the engine part is still there.

How much of the harness do you need? The complete front engine bay section through to the dash/body harness? Is it for a V8?

It's not unusual to have a lot of trash block the filter in rebuilt units.

Penrite Type F is very good, likewise Castrol TQF. I mention these 2 because both are very good in severe use (trans brake @ 4000 rpm flat throttle hold), as I can attest to, having used both. Do NOT use Dexron 2 or 3 in early Ford Transmissions (C4/C6), unless you like rebuilding them often. I speak from experience. Their pumps don't work well with the thinner fluid. I also change filter and fluid after the first 1000 km of use, regardless, as the new parts wearing in create some debris that can restrict the filter, and as mentioned, don't use the dacron filters.

No, it's not normal, but they are getting on and new replacement gear sets are harder to find. I had one years ago that was noisy, so I changed the filter in the pan and used Castrol TQF fluid, and bugger me if the noise disappeared, never to return. Make sure the correct fluid is used (TQF), NOT Dexron 2 or 3, it's too thin for the C4/C6 transmissions. If it whines at idle, that is usually a blocked filter and/or too light a fluid.

I'll do this on the XF's PS box to see if it comes good, only then will I replace it.