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thanks managed to find a good condition second hand one from a working vehicle with the same FA lettering as mine, going to try replacing that once it arrives, if no go then dizzy will have to come out
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It usually means a revision - Ford/Bosch made some small design change, (such as tweaked timing map)? But they're essentially still the same
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I'd assume it will work, i have no idea what the difference FA Vs FB is. they are pretty basic, i'd expect an auto one would work with a manual and vice versa fine also .
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ok thanks for the info i might see if i can find an EST computer. There is a place in Victoria that specialises in dizzy rebuilds so i was planning on taking it out and sending it to them to test and rebuild, and not moving the car while it was out so dizzy would just slide back in without need for re-timing it. i can get a used computer that has all the same letters and numbers as mine (photo below) expect where mine says FA the replacement one says FB, does anyone know what the FA vs FB represents and will it fit?
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if you can find another EST Computer (inside the left kick panel under the glovebox) this is another SIMPLE swap to test. literally would take 10mins to swap over without mucking around with timing a dissy etc. they definitely do have issues (many EST dissy setups were converted to XE dizzy type for this reason) just another option (if you fit an XE dissy, or 1984/1985 XF **Leaded XF) and want to keep the current leads/dizzy cap, you need to get a 1984/1985 XF ROTOR BUTTON in the dizzy (the shaft size is different to the EST/TFi dissy of the unleaded models, so the rotor button cant be used. there's probably a thread on it, but all you need to do (other than re time the dizzy due to removal) to install the XE dissy, is run the 2 wires to the coil (red for + green for - ) and unplug the EST computer.. and it will run as long as it's also in good condition. ***side note*** I did this and left the EST computer plugged in, and it worked for years until suddenly it didnt. i can't remember what the symptom was, but the fix was unplugging the EST computer in the kick panel.. something was playing up in it, i think it was causing it not to rev much, would idle and not rev to 4000rpm etc.
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tried another new coil (C176) car ran fine for 5 mins then just stopped again and wouldnt restart, seems to be taking less time from when its running to when it cuts out. going to have to take the dizzy out next and get that checked as mentioned above by Sparky_Dave ,..... running out of things it could be
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yeah i dont get it either
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that's odd. i have had a brand new coil no good out of the box about 30yrs ago.. bought one for the reco engine in My commodore at the time, ended up putting the original back on. annoying problems,
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update: i put a new coil on it (C176) and it ran very rough missing and carrying on (yes i double checked it was wired correctly same as old one) and the car cut off within a few minutes of idling, tried starting it was very hard to start and when it did was still running rough missing etc. I put the old coil back on it and runs smooth like it always has but it i wll cutout eventually after driving it for a while.So for some reason it didnt like the new coil. i checked the new coil with multimeter and it was within specs and so was the old original made in Australia one one. I checked the dizzy for the centre carbon contact and it looked fine,i checked the wiring in and out of the fuse mentioned above and all looked good. i cleaned the contact faces on the main earth strap maybe that will help, if not i am running out of easier things to try and guess i will have to pull the dizzy out
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Cheers Bear. Yeah I knew about the winged sump on the phase 4's. Was just thinking maybe I should get a cooler for the Cleveland in my LTD to keep the oil cool was just a thought.
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That's one of the main fusible links One supplies 12v at the EST diagnostic/base timing mode connectors near the brake booster The other, supplies power to the fuse box
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thanks for the replies, gives me a few things to try, the coil is pretty hot,(almost too hot to hold) when it happens but i thought maybe thats normal given where its located, might try a new coil first as thats probably the cheapest and easiest. i did check it with a multimeter and was within range but given it happens only now and then i was thinking you could test it ten times and be ok then test it again and be bad so easier to just put a new coil on it for $50 odd . I will check that wiring connection too, if that doesnt fix it i will have to look at the dizzy, i did take the dist. cap off and all looked good there thanks for the replies
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This happened to my own XF on a regular basis, very unnerving particularly while on the freeway. I had auto electricians test the spark and approved it until it happened coming back from the sparky, fitted new coils was good for a while but then continued to do it. Found the EST was good, dizzy good (apart from) damage being done everytime the thing backfired. Turns out it was a loose broken wire connector next to the 2 main relays next to the battery which would cause the stall shortly after driving it. Fixed and hasn't done it since (except because of the violent backfires from previous, I've needed to replace the dizzy gear wheel twice due to using secondhand replacements. Crow cams supplied a new one plus a spare I'll probably never need to use.) BTW, moved my new coil to the LH suspension tower away from the heat.
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From the description, it's most likely an ignition problem Specifically, a failing hall effect sensor inside the distributor Luckily, those hall effect sensors can be purchased new The distributor has to come out, and be disassembled though Example - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/236524819457 (however E-series hall effect plates, have the hall sensor clocked differently) You'd need one of these, instead - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/277224475917
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for Me, this sounds like ignition issue, not carby/fuel related. but, one more test if you think it's fuel related, is remove the fuel cap (if it's creating a vacuum in the tank due to blocked hoses or fuel cap vent not working, this can be an issue) when My XE blew it's muffler from similar, it was due to the carbon contact in the dizzy cap being worn out, check your dizzy cap inside for the center carbon (spring loaded carbon contact, if it's just the spring or nothing left, this is likely the issue ) the fact that it runs for a while, makes me believe it's the coil or ignition module or EST computer in the passenger kick panel. next time it stops, check how hot the coil is, if it's super hot, it's likely stuffed (can test the theory by spraying cold water on it, sometimes will make it run longer, if so... it's the coil.. it's not easy to test other parts of the ignition system for something that might overheat. as when it cools down, it may end up in range again.
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I have a 1988 XF carby ute manual 3 on the tree stock standard, and lately when i am driving along car just completely cuts out without warning, i can pull over and it restarts straight away then dies again not long after (time varies) but can always restart it. It idles fine, and starts fine.what can the issue be, seems to happen only once car gets up to temp. Last time i drove it it was fine for 15mins or so then after it was at temp it hesitated for a second and backfired and blew a hole in the muffler, i kept driving and another ten minutes later it cut out completely, i pulled over and it re-started straight away, i drove another 5 mins and it cut out again, restated straight away, this went on a few times until i made it home. I have 1/replaced fuel filter (original plastic in-line one was clean anyway) 2/replaced mechanical fuel pump 3/ checked for vacuum leaks 3/rebuilt carby Any help would be appreciated thanks
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Mick.G changed their profile photo
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They work fine. Same style as Trans coolers. The Phase 4 "legend" ran a winged sump (just 2 Victa fuel tanks welded on the original sump) for extra cooling across the Mountain.
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Free.51 changed their profile photo
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Is anybody on here running an oil cooler on there Cleveland & if so what type & is it worth it for a street car? Was looking at an XD ex cop car on marketplace place & saved a pic of the cooler & oil filter adapter & thought wonder if i should get one? TiA. Sent from my SM-A057F using Tapatalk
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Thats awesome, appreciate the info
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Swap over the reluctor/chopper wheel, base plate/sensor and the black connector block (should plug in, where the tfi goes) not much else to it MPI choppers have one larger gap, for injector sync (mpi's batch fire in two groups of 3) EST/CFI's are all equal gap's Plus the base plate with hall sensor, is clocked differently
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you know more about them than Me at this point. google may dig up some useful info from other forums also, I'd only trust fordforums.com.au only though if joining any older ones (or oldschool.co.nz but they have a very broad range of cars they cover, read the rules of the forum when joining, they don't allow posting in the project threads, they have a separate discussion thread for that, which is great for reading but difficult to catch up on an old thread if there's been suggestions and such)
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Looking at both dizzy's they appear to have the same black, green and red 3 wire setup to to module from the hall effect sensor...hmmmm
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I might have a look at how the XG dizzy is wired internally and see what the difference is to the EST style dizzy is. Externally apart from the tfi module on the side of the xg dizzy they look very similar, both are hall effect types that appear to work very similar. I've been told to just get an XF dizzy and turn the gear upside down, but not going to go that dodgy..dont wanna leave the poor bugger stranded some where...lol Im thinking of just getting him a streetfire and be done with it..he can work off the bill for that.
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another option which is more custom is the points replacement electronic ignition (i have one in My gemini) you won't have vacuum advance/map sensor advance , but it would probably go good enough in a happy medium setting(trial and error) the link below is just a random 6cyl one i googled up for reference.. they answer messages if it's the same mob i dealt with, so might be worth a chat (still $100 odd though) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170537391658?_skw=accuspark++6cyl&itmmeta=01KE4A5DFRBXSSMWCNTG1XX2Y8&hash=item27b4d2162a:g:drwAAOSweZhmfmdp&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e7zdbSItW1T%2FkdgEhQyYwcYy7cuxjS7aBGexu64XQf1VhHtVAyMAevHUxozFTn2aNASe3As0uAj9CcgPOtLWVo14pC31A0%2FXCA0FQz%2Bv0S8f6DP%2Bs2PFd7CoELGZH%2Bo0AgXt1QgHh1BfuZQlZ5rVPA4ysz5j3jEeLkdFd3TbA1ez1wi%2Bj53ooLSt02oh6%2Fb9HARrm8fLarWr91sBBWWGe1vH0KU8o7mxAIQQX0mR8%2BZJx6pcQfFXw%2FHz9GY27NWxo%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4bYlYrxZg
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the bodgy way of fitting EST into the OHC engines used to be to turn the gear upside down (i assume redrill the shaft for different pin position?) this has some people saying it works and others saying the gear chewed out and left them stranded (and put metal in the sump/oil pump/filter) it would get it going easier. to fault find issues in the short term though.
