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  1. Last week
  2. deankxf
    Harveys is/was very good still, being further out makes it probably less popular for people to risk heading out to (fuel prices so high, probably $25 plus any toll road fees and half a day gone just to have a look if nothing is there) that's where i got My headliner for My AU wagon, far cheaper than even redoing the one i had myself.
  3. SOHCDriver
    Yes Imlachs were a great resource, very sad they are gone. On my last visit a week ago Jollys Dandenong had cars stripped very early on as well. I did get a nice power steering pump that looked quite new so happy with that. I want to try Harvey's at Langwarrin next. https://www.harveywreckers.com.au/
  4. Earlier
  5. deankxf
    SELF SERVE WRECKERS I thought i'd post up something mildly concerning . parts are getting hard to find cheap. wrecking yards and parts getting hard to find. I spotted this car on pick a part's facebook page last weekend(less than a week ago) figured i'd go sus it out yesterday (been sick with some spicy cough/flu/cold thing for 2 weeks and finally came good) this car is almost stripped bare in only a few days. nothing useful for Me in there. Victoria lost a GREAT wrecking yard last year (imlach's in Clayton) they were a self serve wrecker with good stock and prices.. Jolly's Geelong when i went there last year had what i assume were RESELLERS walking around with garden trolleys filled with parts and tools, likely taking advantage of the same price regardless of brand (like a BMW headlight same price as a Kia one for eg.. potential upside to resell?) anything i wanted was basically stripped bare.. same seems to be happening at other yards now, well even more than ever. (the old saying, "they aren't making them anymore" comes to mind..) so consider stocking up on parts that might be hard to find as they wear out (things like steering wheels, seat trim, console lids, tail lights and headlights etc.. )
  6. ZKFairlane

    Nolathane vs Standard LCAs?

    ZKFairlane replied to Trev Vaa's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes

    Yes and no... I just had a closer look at them and it looks like the bottom bushes are nolathane and the upper ones are rubber. The nolathane ones are light blue/aqua in colour. Do you recall where you saw the bushes? I'm collecting NOS stuff as I see them... Have a look at the attached photo. The one on the left is the bottom bush and the one on the right is the upper. Noting that this car is reportedly the second Falcon S XR6 built (according to Howard Marsden himself), Tickford may have made changes as they delivered later ones. The car is incredibly nice to drive, noticeably firm, but not jarring and it corners like it's on rails. If you ever come across a blue Falcon S badge, like the one in the other photo, let me know. I've been hunting for one for years and all I can find are the red versions off of an EA. (yes, I know the photo if off of a ute, but the S badge is the same on the EB sedans).
  7. bear351c
    I put XC/XD rear discs on my XB (9 Inch) and had to buy the cable etc.... similar to the "screw in" style of actuator. They ain't cheap to find/buy, but worked out well in the end. Gonna do the same on the coupe. Just requires the factory style hooks, clamps and clips etc to be welded to the rails. Everything is available 2nd hand or aftermarket. Not sure how you fit to an XR, never had the pleasure of an XR/XT. E series diffs are way lighter, and just as strong. Used to be a company called Flex drive agencies or something...they could make any cable for anything using your ends.
  8. Crebe started following Rear Disc brake and handbrake cables and Rear Disc brake and handbrake cables
  9. Crebe
    I am trying to decide on what type of discs brakes I will get fitted to my 66 xr ute. So far what I have found is the discs that would better handbrake wise would be ef el or au maybe as they have the built in "drums" that are easier to adjust and neater I think. Trouble is the actuation leavers require the direction of pull for the cable to be along the diff tubes where as the ea-ed style actuate via rotation of a screw thread on the calliper that has a small leaver on it that is pulled in direction of the front of the car. This, I think would be easier to route a custom cable in the similar layout of the origonal setup. There even looks like a custom cable is available at Retro Spares for $247.66 only thing is the lever that actuates it looks like it could possibly contact a bigger tyre and rim as the spring arm,a part of the actuation lever, sticks way out towards the rear of the car but thats just looking at web photos so its hard to be sure. Has anyone fitted either of these setups and got a handbrake cable with a safe and simple routing.would like the ef style but the origonal cable layout is a bit more complex! I WOULD INSERT PHOTOS BUT HAVE NO IDEA HOW!
  10. Crebe
    I am trying to decide on what type of discs brakes I will get fitted to my 66 xr ute. So far what I have found is the discs that would better handbrake wise would be ef el or au maybe as they have the built in "drums" that are easier to adjust and neater I think. Trouble is the actuation leavers require the direction of pull for the cable to be along the diff tubes where as the ea-ed style actuate via rotation of a screw thread on the calliper that has a small leaver on it that is pulled in direction of the front of the car. This, I think would be easier to route a custom cable in the similar layout of the origonal setup. There even looks like a custom cable is available at Retro Spares for $247.66 only thing is the lever that actuates it looks like it could possibly contact a bigger tyre and rim as the spring arm,a part of the actuation lever, sticks way out towards the rear of the car but thats just looking at web photos so its hard to be sure. Has anyone fitted either of these setups and got a handbrake cable with a safe and simple routing.would like the ef style but the origonal cable layout is a bit more complex! I WOULD INSERT PHOTOS BUT HAVE NO IDEA HOW!
  11. SPArKy_Dave started following XG and the 5.0L Windsor
  12. SPArKy_Dave

    XG and the 5.0L Windsor

    SPArKy_Dave replied to hendrixhc's topic in Cooling System

  13. SPArKy_Dave

    Nolathane vs Standard LCAs?

    SPArKy_Dave replied to Trev Vaa's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes

    I've seen NOS light blue 'nolathane/polyurethane' bushes with a Tickford part number? Are the link pin doughnut bushes, light blue/aqua coloured?
  14. ZKFairlane

    Nolathane vs Standard LCAs?

    ZKFairlane replied to Trev Vaa's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes

    I inherited an EB XR6 with 85k on it. Original and untouched. Tickford put nolathane on the sway bar links, and rubber everywhere else. The D bushes were rubber.
  15. deankxf

    Nolathane vs Standard LCAs?

    deankxf replied to Trev Vaa's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes

    the only place i use nolathane etc is on sway bar link bushes and D bushes.. gives a noticable improvement. anything else i'd choose rubber (Rubber lasts decades in many cases also)
  16. Crebe

    Nolathane vs Standard LCAs?

    Crebe replied to Trev Vaa's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes

    I would never use nolathane again in any vehicle I own, you choose yourself but, I put nolapains in my xf s pack top control arms on th rear many years ago and it belted the shite out of the ride over rough roads or potholes. The guys that conned me on them said it would handle better and ride better. Bullshite I say. Am just replacing my 66XR leefsprings with luvells and have found the rear is full of nolapain bushes so will remove the bigest and see if I can put up with it otherwise the rest will be going too!
  17. bear351c

    XG and the 5.0L Windsor

    bear351c replied to hendrixhc's topic in Cooling System

    Got a radiator cap on the rad, or the overflow/expansion tank.??
  18. hendrixhc

    XG and the 5.0L Windsor

    hendrixhc posted a topic in Cooling System

    So i am putting the wheezer in the Xg and have noticed the top radiator hose ahs a bypass line to the Coolant reservoir and a third hose down to the middle of the side tank on the radiator. How important is it to replicate this or can i go standard radiator setup like on a clevo with just and overflow tank?
  19. deankxf
    fixed the sticky handle today. was actually tight on the pivot spindle (under that screw, torx T20) decided to try remove the handle, it's risky, the bolts came out though with ease (they have a locking compound on them) access through the door by removing a grommet once i got the handle out, the area i thought it was catching on, already had clearance T20 torx for this self tapper (could probably cut a slot in it and use a flat head screw driver) washed the handle up, taking photos of how the spring went together sanded the spindle with 320 grit sanded the inner hole .. got sick of that fast after testing it several times with no change taped the sandpaper to a bit and used it like a flap sander in the hole for a while until it was a loose fit. crap video of it not sticking anymore. i wiped some engine oil on it, because i couldn't find my grease tub.. (should probably have put silicone spray on it?) it appeared to have NOTHING on it from factory though? works perfectly after refitting it. also took the opportunity to wash out the dirt from the inside of the door and clear the drains (found some rust also, but door trim covers it fine, non issue)
  20. bear351c

    Diff builders In NSW

    bear351c replied to Crebe's topic in Transmission and Differential

    Well, that's disappointing. Hope someone can help with a recommendation. I'm no help down here in SA The Granny State. My preference would be for a 9 inch, but I'm biased Purely for interchangeability of centres/ratios. Can be done in the shed, if you ever decide to go on an interstate trip and want better fuel economy.
  21. Crebe
    I have a 66 xr ute with an xa width borgy (M76?)in it behind a 94 5lt xr8 motor and BTR. The borgy is hanging in there but the 25 spline axles have a slight woble and cant get replacements or get them fixed! I am having trouble getting a decent builder to make a diff for me. I have changed my mind from getting a bigger borgy or dana or 9 inch (I have a nice xy housing) but they have all got drawbacks. 9 inch are VERY heavy and I dont realy need one with my stock 5lt. The little borgy is limited to what little stuff I can by for centres and the m80s are probably the size for me but cant find a builder that will supply EVERYTHING! I find most builders are in Melbourne or vic and thats not close enough as I am in Newcastle area. So for its either they dont like m80s, want use 2nd hand parts, use the centres they have, use the new heavy after market 9 housings not mine, want to build the diff as they say not what I ask for, wont do brakes and brake lines and wont do handbrakes. Maybe I am fussy wanting them to make a complete item but? Anyway any segestions? Looking for trutrac 31 spline, disc brakes either 9 inch as I have a housing or m80? Any help appreciated.
  22. deankxf
    STICKY DOOR HANDLE ISSUE (outside rear right in this case) could cause your door not to open or close (see above post for possibly more notes on the issue) NOT AN ACTUATOR ISSUE, but Could have been a locked up actuator due to the door handle sticking (not sure) knee pad, look after your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone. I THINK it's a T30 torx.. these screws can be super tight (rusted) i had to drill the heads off some spare doors here to remove the mechs (haven't tried fixing them, but the mech may have parts so i kept them) front left and rear right mechs.. I am working on the rear door, but thought i might need to use parts from the actuator.. (the front one had the stuffed mounting bolts, so it was the sacrificed one if needed.. not needed in this case) not much to see here, but this is the drivers rear one before I cut the zip ties and before the handle lever rod fell out. (take photos, so you know how to put it back together) there was nothing wrong, but i forgot to heed the warning in the video a few posts back about the spring flying off when you remove those geared parts and motor.. (took me 2 minutes to reassemble after looking at this picture of how it was meant to be.) THE OFFENDING DOOR HANDLE (from the inside, rod lever disconnected, and you can see the lever arm stuck down, it should spring back to the top, the rod shouldn't have tension on it when installed) even closer pic arrow pointing to the tight area, I'm going to sand this down and grease it. as long as the lever arm isn't going to be affected by sanding some clearance, i'll give it at least 1mm of clearance if it's easy to do.. (going to try not remove the handle to work on it, as the mounting bolts can also be a problem to undo on these cars) that center pivot screw i don't want to mess with, i can't see how it would be too tight? (however, if it was too tight, i'd mess with it ) and a crap video of My observation for your viewing pleasure.
  23. deankxf
    mine initially wouldn't open.. from either door. now you mention it, i did check the child lock, and it seemed sus also.. but i think it was possibly unrelated to the issue. (found it today, partly fixed) I think the CAUSE is possibly from pressing the lock button (has to be with the remote or central locking) while the door handle is trying to open .THIS ISSUE is due to the outer door handle rod puller sticking in the open position.. (I'm uploading pics for a detailed post now) if it doesn't lock, check back soon on My next post. It could be the outer handle sticking. . this is the drivers side rear, but it would easily be possible on the rear doors (front door handles are a different actuation )
  24. SPArKy_Dave
    Left Rear? Mine did that yrs ago... still doesn't lock
  25. 2redrovers
    Had that happen in the rangie but the door wouldn't open. Actuator had shat itself and basically stuck the child lock halfway between open and closed. I had to dismantle (destroy) the mechanism from inside the closed door after getting the trim off. They're essentially a ford part as well.
  26. deankxf

    Single Rail Transducer

    deankxf replied to Mad RS's topic in Transmission and Differential

    you'd have to look around and see what you can find. try the facebook groups etc for bargains (a mate bought a full BTR transmission from the wreckers with sender unit in it for $165 or something like that. )
  27. Mad RS

    Single Rail Transducer

    Mad RS replied to Mad RS's topic in Transmission and Differential

    $150 for a used transducer seems excessive. Are there no new ones available??
  28. deankxf
    had an issue with the AU today, rear door wouldn't unlock, or open.. then later when i was cycling the locks with the lock/unlock button it unlocked and opened, and now won't close (car can't lock either now) guessing i'll be pulling an actuator apart tomorrow . (i have spares, so should be able to fix it in the same way this guy did)
  29. deankxf

    Single Rail Transducer

    deankxf replied to Mad RS's topic in Transmission and Differential

    The black 8 pulse one (XD XE) is the rare one The red one is same even on AUs (XF XG XH EA EB ED EF EL AU will all be same) just need to change the gear on the end to suit the EB ratio, the corrector shouldn't be needed. (unless it was in an XD XE, because the red 10 pulse one will read 20% higher with the same gear on it) should be easy to find locally in wreckers, but what often happens to them is one or more wires snaps off at the transducer end, could try soldering it on again if there's enough left on it. here's ONE of 3 on ebay, $150.. seems dear, but ebay is convenient and maybe cheaper if you can find one from someone wrecking one of the above cars https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/298141705342?_skw=speedo+transducer+XF&itmmeta=01KW1MTJT1SWPM4PHT849G9WFN&hash=item456aa1647e:g:UXwAAeSwkQVpvHqb&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCvVWbQijWydBZSB2KR5PfHa3bSEY4Bho3eG9%2FFPKLJDwOZUqAQIlAb2qHdUKtDWH%2FzMkXR73YKkGS4ig94FRBCqWR2yg5OdIDiVeJzFIkKOtG%2BsdKBrKY2zF7z%2BhDgINECUJqJ6ywHooklZXvu2hZf7d1P6NfC6VO54xj130AnMxAZGe2ybcKDT1e%2BiZ7YP5tGpTpjisVQ44M%2FWWRq7BAxRkAVs23GlQmVd8BMtpkUlc7hU4n9MGXsyteo%2BEbT99I%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6Ct6rTgZw
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