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No worries Rocker cover gasket needs replacing anyway so when I do that I’ll do thermostat, oil and filter too. Cheers bud
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No mate. Not really an issue. You may find your oil is sludgy, under the rocker cover, when you pull it down, as the oil is designed to run at high temp. Change your oil and filter when you get a spare $50. You computer will try to compensate, as Dean said, by thinking the engine is cold, and adding more fuel to richen it up. Temp gauge should be a third to half way up when fully warmed up. If you run without a thermostat, you may actually 'overheat' your engine. (coolant travels too quickly through the radiator, and doesn't have time to cool down, basically)
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Yeah solid I’ll get into this now and also check the thermostat after iv got another ready to replace it with. Iv been researching all day and the only information I can find on damage from stuck open or missing thermostat is fuel consumption. I think maybe the previous owner had it stuck shut and car was overheating so they just removed it? I’ll only know when I pull it I suppose
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I think Deaner's onto it... I'll add that my EF used to get in the 9s on a trip, 10.5s around town. Manual though. My current EL wags (auto) gets around 14.5 to the hundred, but there's something not right with it. Done TPS, oxy, MAP, still tries to stall occasionally at the lights then catches itself again. I'm actually thinking now it might be fuel pressure reg sticking intermittently but haven't bothered going any further with it. My 302 XE gets not much worse than that, doing identical driving. With yours, no trip computer means you'll have to calculate it the old way. Take fuel used, divide by km on the odometer and multiply that number by 100 to get litres per 100km. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Either that or the previous owner has had it stuck shut and just removed it? As the gasket glue looks pretty crappy and home job done. I think I’m just going to replace it...
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Sorry to keep bothering you deankdx but if my thermostat is actually stuck open what problems can this cause? Apart from fuel economy? I will definitely replace but probably can’t do it straight away. Obviously it’s not as bad underheating my car than overheating but can I cause more damage with a stuck open thermostat?
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Found a few thermostats on eBay and they pretty cheap, I might just change it anyway. At least if I do that I know it’s sweet and not stuck open as I’m more worried about that now than fuel consumption but if it helps with fuel that’s a bonus. But yeah the Ute never gets hot at all and I’m actually thinking you must be right about it being stuck open
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i used to get 10% better economy from 91 to 98, i don't think 95 was popular back when i had it. i don't like 91(i'd use it in a stock newer car happily), and going from 95 to 98 i would expect not much difference if any even cost.. the XG should be fine on 91.. i'm sure it would cost less over all.. but my question is whether it would make the head gasket pop sooner? hard to compare fuel economy without a figure.
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Iv been reading up and I think you’ve got it... the thermostat must be stuck open as the car never gets hot. It literally never even makes it very much passed the start line of the “normal” part of the temp gauge. If it has a thermostat? I’m just trying to find it now. If it does and it’s stuck open is that a WD-40 kind of thing or should I replace it? First I need to find it I guess
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I’m not actually positive what it’s getting in kms to litre I’ll have to monitor it and let you know. I run it on 95 octane as I was told by my mate that’s the best for those motors. Would you reckon I should swap to 98? Will that make a difference? He says that the older cars are fine on 95 but iv always been under the impression 98 is the best for everything.
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what's it using has it got a thermostat in it and working correctly? best i got out of My EB XR6 was 10.5 liters per 100km(driving like a grandpa). the XGs i have had never got this good, was more like 12.. and that is similar to an LS1 stato a mate has on GAS (injected gas) if you are using around 20Liters per 100km, that's what i was getting when My thermostat stuck open and the engine was running too cold.. comptuer says richen, (like a choke )
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Gday Lads, hope everyone’s been ok in these very uncertain times . If your anything like me “isolate yourself” means working on Falcon and Harley . Anyway question is I recently got my XG Falcon and I have enjoyed pulling cluster, fixing odometer, changing dash lights to LED, running a sexy tray liner and tarp and generally messing with it. However I am very bewildered buy the fuel consumption of this thing ? For it being a six cylinder it’s actually ridiculous how much fuel this thing uses just driving it normally not towing or anything. I had a hilux with an LS2 in it and yeah that chewed juice but come on...that was a beast. I was telling a mate about it the other day and he laughed and said that’s just the straight 6 for ya. Is he right? Are they just very uneconomical? Or is there something I can check or do? cheers in advance guys
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Sounds like it is definitely going better
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Good results then [emoji108]
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who knows. this was an unknown head remember lol but all the signs told me it had never been used since being rebuilt. and evidently GT spec head, so it would already be flowing better than a standard head. I also went back to a single squirt pump jet in the carby, and that seems to have helped. less cough and hesitation, probably because its no longer flooding the engine every time i hit the throttle
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maybe it has better valve springs?
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Well its finished My temp gauge now does not work. i think the sender in the new head is dead that means draining the cooling system again to swap it I have taken it for a drive for about half hour. The car doesnt necessarily feel any faster, but it is so much happier to rev now. it seems to build revs a lot faster now. It now seems smoother with its power delivery too. so maybe it is faster and i just dont notice it. Giving it a run onto the freeway, usually it would take what seemed a long time to get to 5000rpm where my shift light comes in, and i would shift at around 5500rpm. now, 6000rpm is nothing to it. and the shift light seems to come on very quickly So I think I am happy, but I will take it for a longer drive tomorrow to stretch its legs and see what its like then
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Maybe it’s the turbo hanging of the side of mine warming it up quicker.
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Ashley Roling changed their profile photo
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thanks everyone for the help
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There is a way to check the rpm of the fan and see if it's working properly, was reading about it in the Ford workshop manual. I'll post it up tonight if I remember. Fan hubs are still available new, won't be on the shelf but I know Repco keeps them in their warehouses. https://www.repco.com.au/en/parts-service/cooling/cooling-fans-components/dayco-fan-clutch/p/A7517033
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Was a cold morn yesterday as well chris .. well it was down the huon ,, frozen windows n all
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It’s a common thing for them to lock up. They fail to free spin and really roar which only robs power and wastes fuel. The fan hub should undo with a 32mm spanner and it’s left hand thread. The hub removes from the fan with 4 bolts and you just put a new hub inside of the fan. I’m not sure how hard the fan hub is to buy these days but I think CHESTNUTXE might have one that he was willing to give away.
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The one I pulled out is Tridon I believe. From what I know Tridon thermostats have the temp stamped on the face, Dayco ones have it painted on there. Haven't tested it yet to check what the issue with it was. Interesting. Pretty sure my old man has mentioned adding a bleed hole if they don't have one (another one of those "older mechanics"). Anyway the one I put in yesterday I took the jiggle pin out. And today it took way way way longer than normal to get to temp - only two bars by the time I got to work via the highway (6km drive). Did order a new temp sender for the gauge in case that is also an issue - don't think I've changed it before in the wagon.
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It’s something I learnt from my old man who is a “ older mechanic “. 1/8 hole in the main flange. and to answer the question from Mr Polson, I find it warms up a little quicker and more evenly.
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Last night, I made a very interesting discovery. Both heads, appear to be GT heads. they both have the larger GT intake valves. weird. Everyhting I could find on the googles suggests that with the 38mm intake valves, they are the GT spec. workshop manual would suggest the same. but both heads? I started off today by cleaning the tops of the pistons, and the block face etc. Anyway, it turns out this engine in the car has been rebuilt at some point, with the pistons being 40thou oversized. not perfect, but a lot better than they were. new head gasket on head on and this is where i got to, today. It will be finished tomorrow (i hope ) the new head, i dont think has ever been used since being rebuilt. just sat for a very long time. all rockers were adjusted to their extreme lose, or off in regards to valve clearance, and after i cleaned it up and got rid of all the oil around the outside, i could see the brand new welsh plug in the back of the head. Im really keen to see how this goes with the new head.
