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- Today
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i guess the next question is how fast it's going to be going before it needs to stop and how often? I've never raced one, so no idea how they go or if better pads/slotted rotors are much better as with braided lines and race brake fluid.. @Bob Valdez is setting up a race car AU currently but was considering an XE/F but can't remember what brakes he had planned, perhaps he would have some useful info for track days and brakes.
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hey Dean, Thanks for the great info. It's going to be mainly a cruise car but I would like to do the odd track day at Queensland Raceway and Lakeside so I would like to upgrade at least the pad and disc setup if not go a little larger.
- Yesterday
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only difference with the V8 was rear discs, Vented on XE XE (even though EB V8s had solid discs) some say the V8s had PBR front calipers (iron ones like XC) but I've seen the Girlock (basically XF ones) on V8 cars also, and believe they are basically same performance wise. XE Ghia had rear discs 250crossflow standard (same with fairlane/LTD) they were basically V8 brakes other than the potential different front calipers(older Vs Newer) Hoppers stoppers do a "big brake" kit, which uses bigger rotors and AU series 2/3 or BA calipers from memory (could be commodore for all i know) these may need bigger wheels than 15" you'd then at minimum need a proportioning valve as the fronts will over power the rears i would imagine. very expensive, how fast are you going to be going?
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I'm sure this has been brought up before but I can't find anything. I'm looking at a XE 250xflow manual and Ii'm wanting to do say 4-6 track days per year. Is there much difference moving up to the factory 351 brake setup?? I'm thinking surely the V8 stuff is more robust especially with slotted rotors and track pads.
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Mad RS joined the community
- Last week
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spot welded and stitch welded, will need welding
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Does this part of the frame unbolt? I have access to an XF roller if it's easier to just pull parts off that.
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they aren't stuck on as well as you'd think. they should be. if you can beat it back into position and weld it back on securely it's probably fine. (i bent a caster rod and lower control arm once, and it didn't pull that part off surprisingly) i'd avoid parts sold by suzuki super on ebay.. other than just cheap parts are probably crap, i'd be more inclinde to see what's stuffed and ONLY change what's worn out . idler arm, probably all just as crap as the next one from any brand.. tie rods usually aren't shagged, if they aren't moving keep them.. upper and lower ball joints, i've heard the WASP ones are the better cheapies. REPCO branded ones were supposedly good if you want to buy from a shop, or 555 brand or TRW being the better brands.
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How fucked am I?
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https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220873735667?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXF|Model%3AFalcon&_skw=xf+falcon+ball+joints&itmmeta=01JQGC9TAS5YJYK3070QEN5783&hash=item336d19bdf3:g:wS4AAMXQ1PNRaVI9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cffHdUR5aWsbdERj%2FJnWStUVF6ZvCL%2BjlUBaCKSXar0BVp%2FoRhUwxz74Fiqxmk%2BLiL7K0JlCm5v6QRHrWZxXAtKYlRY1R9%2Ff55yaTlkUDVEYMjBi90s80EUu5KnZ9eSlQ4cUHF%2FvXU9fWymWGjdhjXabJcCivqndJu%2FLOpT3M7KpwT7jRjd0rh6bBbaLrswQJqs4CJJbggPF4pm%2FJjZiq8rcjbu54DadPaIY1ZPfFKgifMnFJ9lIZ182ACGY0a4gj6YRFHwS69M%2BD6DS50qM9KEum4pldpHrolbdbClDVGHA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwqWnjLxl Anyone had any experience with this brand or know anywhere better/cheaper?
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After a slight mishap with a concrete drain I've fucked up a rim with brand new tyre and my alignment so after crab walking it home I'm firing up the lemonade stand and Ill be rebuilding the front end and trying to do a diy alignment. Just one of those days
- Earlier
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Jimbojones joined the community
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hello bear, need a little info please ,I have a 1978 xc falcon ute with hall affect dissy and bosch box on the engine bay wall, its not a pionts setup dissy ,it was a 302 Cleveland ,I have up graded the engine to a 351 cleveland from an XD with HEI dissy .
Question how do i tap into the loom to power the HEI coil to make things go?
the XD motor has a proflow HEI dissy with MSD coil .
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brett xc joined the community
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Tony.Falcon joined the community
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chartoo211 joined the community
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The following is a list of settings that can be altered, to suit personal preference - Personalisation Settings: Taxi Mode: Disabled: Means car is in normal mode. Door locks operate in a standard manner either 2 stage unlock or 1 stage unlock. Enabled: Car is in taxi mode. Remote key operates in a normal manner,but operation of central door lock(CDL) switch on the ICC is different. If any door is unlocked when the ICC CDL button is pressed the passenger doors will unlock (drivers door will remain locked) Panic Alarm Inhibit: Disabled: Allows operation of hazards,horn warning and courtesy lamps as a result of pressing of panic alarm button on remote key pad. Enabled: Disables operation of panic alarm. If this bit is set and panic alarm button is pressed on remote key pad nothing will happen. Door Trigger Disable Mode: Disabled: Means dome lamp operation will be triggered by opening and closing of doors. Enabled: Opening and closing the doors will not effect state of dome lamps ie.Opening a door will not turn on dome lamps, and closing a door will not turn off dome lamps. Also key out/dome on function will not operate. There is still control of dome lamps by operation of the ICC button, and operation of remote key. This bit can be set and reset by either using the WDS or alternatively pressing and holding the dome lamp button on for 5 seconds. Master Door Trigger Disable Mode: Disabled: Allows door trigger disable mode to be invoked by pressing and holding of ICC CDL switch. Enabled: Does not allow door trigger disable mode to be turned on or off by pressing and holding ICC CDL switch. Hazard Warning Inhibit: Disabled: BEM will operate the hazard lamps when any remote key is pressed and for key in lock warning. Ie unlock,panic,lock,remote boot release. Enabled: BEM will not operate the hazard lamps if any of the remote key buttons are pressed. Horn Warning Inhibit: Disabled: BEM will operate the horn in the event that the remote lock button is pressed twice within 3 seconds, or if the remote lock button is pressed when a transponder is still in the ignition. Enabled: BEM will not operate the horn under conditions described above. Battery Saver Inhibit: Disabled: Enables battery saver supply to operate as per normal operation. Enabled: Disables battery saver control by BEM when ignition is off. Remote key operation will not activate courtesy lamps. Door opening and closing will not activate dome lamps with ignition off bacause battery saver is not active when ignition is off. Battery saver will still be active when ignition is in the Accessories or Ignition on positions. Courtesy Lamp Inhibit: Disabled: Enables courtesy lamp output driver, such that courtesy lamps operate as per normal operation. Enabled: Disables courtesy lamp output driver. Courtesy lamps will never operate. -
Thanks so much for replying Dean, yeah I was gonna give that a crack in the morning & did think wether undoing the top nut & bottom bolts then lowering the jack may work. Hopefully the springs aren't shagged, oh well to bad I'll give that ago & see how I get on.
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if it's an XE or XF with coil springs on the diff, you should be able to with the car on chassis stands/hoist..just undo the shocks and lower the diff down with a jack so the springs basically fall out of the way.. remove the spring and shock(air) as one and then refit the others any way you like i've never removed the boot hump things, but there might be enough clearance, worth a try if you can't do the chassis stands way. only 4 bolts and you'll soon find out.
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Hey Guy's. Awesome Andy's amateur mechanical hour strikes again.. Was happy day's removing shock absorbers untill bearing in mind the one's I'm removing are Air shocks with a larger diameter circumference on the upper shock not allowing it to slide out. What's next do I drop the diff & remove the whole spring The little 10mm bolt on a sway bar coming out either side of the diff,is that what I remove? Really don't want to have to do that. Can I remove the top shock cover in the boot & pull out from above, oh god that's getting real amateur hour now. Any tips cuzzie bro's from across the ditch Cheers
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Hey Bear, thanks alot. I've gone ahead & bought KYB Xcel G shocks, hopefully they go in with my current springs which i think are just lows not superlows. I did jack it up a little bit & measured the spring which was 25cm from the top to where it sits at the base, give or take a couple centimeters. Also measured bottom of the outer sill to the floor was 12cm. Few of the guys on XF FANATICS have gone with KYB on low shocks, finger's crossed I'm not on super lows, most of the modifications on my car are about 30yrs old now hence there being air shocks which apparently are a thing of the past haha . It's gonna suck if they shocks don't fit 🥴
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Hi mate, probably the rubber 'bag' which is inside the shocks. (they crack/wear etc) could try to source an Air Jackers kit, which used to contain the Schrader valve, coupling, tees and couple of metres of black flex line. Not sure if you buy 'em on eBay or whatever? If you have lowered suspension, you'll need lowered shocks, or they will bottom out, and fail prematurely. Monroe is OK, Pedders have a heavy duty set with bigger bore and thicker rods. If you're cashed up, go Koni or Billsteins.
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Did you unbolt the steering column, to remove the cluster? To me, it's all voltage and/or earth related Focus on the ignition switch Does it have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser?
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SUGGESTIONS WELCOME for an EA to FG forum sections, tips and how to's
deankxf replied to deankxf's topic in AU HEY YOU Q&A and general info series 1,2 and 3
putting this here for now, Door trim removal, speaker removal, grab handle etc. (door mechanism and window switches ) i found a better grab handle for the door trim at the wreckers the other week, and needed to figure out how to get the door trim off My car to fit it (already removed at wreckers) -
Hey All, Got a strange one today. Replaced a broken odometer gear in the speedo. Bit fiddly but easy enough to do. However once I hooked my battery back up the fuel pump primed and a clicking sound came out of one of the relays. Inside the cab the Altinator and smart lock lights were on. Key was OUT of the ignition. Put the key in to try to start it and nothing. Put the battery on a charger for a couple of hours. Came back and smart lock light was off but Alt light still on. Ute started ok but the ALT gauge showed no charge. Went for a quick drive and nothing changed, then I went to turn it off and it wouldn't turn off! Even disconnected the neg terminal. Only when i did the pos terminal is stopped. Any ideas? Do I need a Preist to throw holy water over it or something??
- 1 reply
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air shocks were usually a bandaid for towing and sagging springs. quite handy for that. big bore shocks are recommended for any stiffer spring. ultima are cheapest, i used Pedders red big bore ones (second hand) koni would be awesome if affordable.
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Seems Air shocks are a bit archaic & out of date. Thinking now of going with Cobra lows with KYB shock absorbers
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i'd be checking the hoses and their o rings inside the fittings.. the o rings are likely split with age. those air shocks rarely leaked air, but the shock absorbing part gets less effective like any other shock. check the valve where you put air in, could leak there also.
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Hey Guy's Over time finding this page very useful, older car scenario, always gonna be something breaking, replacing & repairing. Bloody frigging airshocks now, not holding air & went down pretty rapidly, so would I be right in thinking it's more the struts are buggered than the actual air line leaking somewhere. Really need to get up on a hoist now somewhere to try & figure it out. Probably would prefer replacing with Munroe, the car sits quite low as is,any you guy's had much to do with suspension side of things & any advice or recommendations on shocks to get or part numbers for 1985 XF Fairmont. Cheers Andy
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Hey Guy's Over time finding this page very useful, older car scenario, always gonna be something breaking, replacing & repairing. Bloody frigging airshocks now, not holding air & went down pretty rapidly, so would I be right in thinking it's more the struts are buggered than the actual air line leaking somewhere. Really need to get up on a hoist now somewhere to try & figure it out. Probably would prefer replacing with Munroe, the car sits quite low as is,any you guy's had much to do with suspension side of things & any advice or recommendations on shocks to get or part numbers for 1985 XF Fairmont. Cheers Andy
