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  3. bear351c

    Xr Tunnel

    Normally around 3 degrees as Sparky Dave suggested. Honestly, it can be 2 -5* as long as your diff angle is the same, but opposite direction. stick angle gauge on manifold with carby off, engine fully installed, or transmission shaft hanging out the back of trans, should be angled 3* down, so make sure the diff is 3* up.
  4. Error code: ID10T

  5. Crebe

    Xr Tunnel

    GregAust....they had auto and manual tunnels. Realy. What a stupid thing for a munufacturer to do. Just pick the bigest and go with that!
  6. Crebe

    Xr Tunnel

    Have measured with a electronic ang ll e level and looks to me like the motor points downhill towards the ground to far. Dont have the angles with me but can dig tgem out. Mainly want to know if the XR have a smaller tunnel than XW XY
  7. Last week
  8. Panko

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Im pretty sure i held 5th at speed up there. I don’t remember really having to work 4th. i think once it was at speed, it could hold 5th up hill fine. i can cruise around in 5th at 60km/h for example.
  9. deankxf

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    how'd it go up the big hill just past Calder Park Raceway, back to 4th gear and held the speed with the 1600?
  10. Panko

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Well there hasn’t been much more work on the Escort, even though it still needs some finishing touches. Today however, I drove the car up to my good friend Michael’s house in Sunbury. Michael is the friend who found me this car for sale way back in 2016 when I bought it, and he hasn’t seen it since the accident. I figured it was about time i took it up to him to finally see it finished. From place its a bit over an hour, and a good bit of sitting on highway with 110km/h speed limit. Today in Melbourne it was around 29 degrees. The Escort, sat on 110km/h, or a bit more, with ease. That 5th gear has made it such a better car to drive. This was also the furthest from home (as the crow flies) i had driven the car, and the most highway, and highway speed driving it has done. everything was good. Temp was good, oil pressure, rpm, sat on about 3200rpm at 110km/h. I think today was a really good test for it, and it seems to be good and sorted. I was a little nervous being that far from home in case something happened.
  11. CHESTNUTXE

    XE S-PAC Fog Lights

    good question,where they factory fitted or dealer fitted ? pretty sure bosch were used in xe anyway,can now buy replicas off e bay and the same fitting kit which goes on the middle bumper bolts,im thinking of fitting some to my xe just for a add on and looks,plus the bumper lip spoiler ,others have fitted hella and all sorts of spotlights,just what ever takes your fancy,but i would stick with the bosch if its a s pack.
  12. XES 384

    XE S-PAC Fog Lights

    Hi all, Would anybody please have the dimensions of the fog lights that were supplied from factory? Also were they Bosch, Hella or something else? Cheers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Earlier
  14. Fknclevo

    250 crossflow hot up

    thank you for your advice i will takw this onboard
  15. Boingk

    250 crossflow hot up

    Hi mate, best bet would be to go through the whole engine. I've been down this path and the best bang for the buck was having a set of 200ci pistons for a 1966 Mustang in the block. Cheap casties, but they bumped the compression right up to 11:1 or so with the alloyhead motor. That let me run the entry level Crow mechanical flat tappet camshaft for a more aggressive ramp rate, it had about 232@50 and 570 lift from memory, so equivalent to about a 250@50 hydraulic or so. To run that cam I needed rockers, springs, retainers and pushrods. The pistons gave me the compression I needed for it to not be a dog off the line. Along with a 3" single exhaust, long oval straight-through truck muffler and turndown at the diff it had extractors, intake, ADL2 ignition through a Blaster solid state coil and Holley Brawler carb on an Aussiespeed intake. The thing went like the clappers with a four speed manual behind it in my XF ute, about the same as a modern BA-BF XR6 (non-turbo) which isn't bad for an old pushrod job. I think if you're not putting money into a new block with a bit of machining for some basic cast pistons and new bearings you'll probably be disappointed. If you aren't running new pistons, I'd be looking more at the 14550SS as a maximum which has the following: Performance cam heaps of bottom end & mid range, Street /Stock speedway :: 2200 - 5200rpm :: 141550S :: 290 295 duration :: 219 224 @50 :: .510"in .510"ex :: 106 lobesep That would give you a good streetable engine without opening her right up. You'll still probably need springs and pushrods, though, or you'll just end up with a mess when the stock pushrods bend - assuming they havent already on the stock motor! They are a very long pushrod compared to most basic automotive engines, especially V8's, and aren't terribly durable once you get over about 4500rpm. TLDR? So, intake and reasonable carby - I'd highly recommend a 4412 (Holley 500cfm two barrel) on the stock manifold or a slightly improved unit. Easily and widely available and beats the pants off the tiny little 350 which is too small IMO. I wouldn't spend $800 on the Aussiespeed manifold as its better spent elsewhere at this level. Throw a basic HEI style dizzy on or get a timing box and run it from the TFI style (EFI) dizzy so you can set your ignition curve properly. Get extractors and sort the exhaust. Now decide on the camshaft (note above) and install the supporting mods. That's about it. It won't be a world beater but it'll sure have a lot more get up and go than the current 100hp lump in there, and feel/sound a lot more aggressive on the road. The 3.55 rear end will get old quick, though, as you'll pull significant revs on the highway. I would leave it til dead last and see how you go with the stock 2.92 unit. Cheers - boingk EDIT: Saw you had a 650 mech-sec. Perfect but I'd be wary of using the back barrels too much. I ran a 650 on my solid cam job and it was way too much carb for it.
  16. Searley

    Thom's 4.0l thread

    Thom The Legend and My Inspiration.Thon "The Tax Cab Street Sleeper Man"
  17. Fknclevo

    250 crossflow hot up

    i have toploader to go behind it and bg diff with 28 spline axels mini spool and 3.55 gearing i also have a overkill fuel system that it won’t need that i can put in it if i have. it’s mainly 5kish for engine parts the rest is a different budget
  18. deankxf

    250 crossflow hot up

    https://crowcams.com.au/product/ford-crossflow-solid-1 I don't think $5k will go far these days. if you need to upgrade the diff, exhaust, trans, converter also. you'll be way off. I don't have the answers, but with a cam that big will surely need MUCH more compression to compensate . (you could ask Crow, they did reply to My questions on a different cam once) Also, what diff ratio are you going to use? i had a crossflow 30yrs ago that was 2500-5500 rpm range with 2.92 diff ratio and auto and stock converter and it was like starting off in second gear until it got to about 40kmh then came to life. a 2500 high stall or manual would have helped a lot. can you even get a 3500 high stall for what trans you are using if Auto? (likely going to cost a LOT also) RPM Range Part No. Duration with 1.73 Rocker Lobe Sep Angle Lash Advertised @.050” IN EX IN EX IN EX IN EX 3500 - 6500 14806 281° 294° 245° 255° 0.564 0.585 108 .018" .022" "FITTING NOTES" Must use performance springs. Must use performance retainers. Machining required to fit these components. Must use performance seal. Converter stall speed should be equal to or greater than the minimum RPM of the cam power range
  19. Fknclevo

    250 crossflow hot up

    5kish at a crossflow can stretch the budget but want is the best go if i dont really want to be changing pistons and bumping comp up what’s the biggest/cam i can run hydraulic v solid want to throw a big cam and supporting mods (roller rockers springs etc etc) ice ignition kits available good or no? 600 holley 4 barrel and manifold? have a 650 mechanical secondary’s here to big? even if i dejet good balancer and flywheel? arp rod bolts needed or not? if its not crazy more expensive dont mind throwing more money at it for big cam big comp just dont how worth it really is? looking for a car that’ll light the tyres up and just give it a bit more go what would good cam operating range be seen cams like crow cam 14806 is this way to big for standard comp?
  20. Oscar of Markoz

    TF Cortina Project

  21. can't say i have done it but would bet it is he same column. back in the day i changed many XD/E columns to xg tibbe locks and surrounds
  22. The xf with column shift had rounded column covers like xe from memory. But that column isn't the height adjustable one so there may be enough differences to not fit without modifying that at least.
  23. Hi, has anyone attempted to put xd/xe steering column covers onto an XF steering column? Im looking at changing the xf dash to an xd - by just removing the top part of the dash and instrument cluster. I’m also changing the centre surround as well. These all look like they just bolt on. The wiring of the instrument cluster will need to change, and I’m planning to use the XF fan controls. The squarish look on the xf column doesn’t really fit well with the xd dash top. Keen to see if this is possible or do I need to change the whole column.
  24. Thom

    Thom's 4.0l thread

    Here's an old video circa 2007 with my phone taped to the steering wheel running from zero to 180 kph (i was inventive back then) of my pick a part special 4.0 it made 144rwkw around this time, and it made 177 rwkw with a tune later on (video quality is representative of its time) it was in my xh ute with an ex taxi au short motor (from memory had more than 860,xxx ks), ef xr6 head (94 dt) ea cam, el bbm intake, super cat extractors, crow vernier cam gear, yella terra billet flywheel, high flow cat 2.5 inch exhaust, t5 and 3.45 gears, it was a lot of fun to an 18 year old me, I put over 180,xxxks on that engine before it let go when the stock valve train decided that 2 years of turning to 7000rpm was enough and it dropped a valve, after it was tuned the rev limiter was set to 7200rpm and it saw it every time it was in 1st gear (18 year old me was hard on the equipment) and sometimes more often than that, I wouldn't mind getting another e-series one day and replicating this combo, although it would be really fun in something lightweight like an xp falcon
  25. SPArKy_Dave

    Xr Tunnel

    @Crebe, the engine/gearbox should be angled downhill to the rear of the vehicle, by around 3 degrees. Check the angle, with a carpenters degree wheel from Bunnings.
  26. SPArKy_Dave

    Brake fluid question

    Aussie PBR or Chinese Protex... the master cyl fluid pressure/volume ratio's need to be correct, or they won't provide correct application at the wheels. Drum rear vs Disc rear master cylinders have different internal ratio's. When working correctly, XF brakes (incl drum rears) will almost stand the car on it's nose. I've experienced both good AND bad XF brakes back to back.
  27. bear351c

    Radial Tuned Suspension

    Yes, the holes do land outside the reinforcing on some Falcons. Weld a small tab of steel on so the bolt sits flat, or as @SPArKy_Dave suggested, there are other options available.
  28. gregaust

    Xr Tunnel

    Up to XP i think was the auto + manual tunnels . XR is same as all other Falcons . A T400 fits right in XR as does a C6
  29. deankxf

    Brake fluid question

    DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. XF brakes should be fine, when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple. and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show. i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration. otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know, so it's something you can try before going further. A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)
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