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G’day, i have a ZG that I’m hoping to convert from column to floor shift auto (C4). I have the trans mound and t bar and linkage. Is there anything else I’m missing? I have a b&m mega shifter but think the original t will be nicer. on the steering column side I have a blank lower honey pot steering column cover (where the previous column shift was) from get shop will this be a direct swap over? Any ideas on how to find the top column cover (that sits directly behind the wheel)? Currently has an aftermarket wheel and boss but im on the hunt for an original wheel as well. Am I unrealistic in thinking I’ll be able to get my hands on one in ok nick? Appreciate the help, all feels a bit overwhelming at the moment!
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my xe is a s pack with paint code z760 aswell
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All good mate, it's gonna happen sooner or later. Can't port them on the car very easily now, can I? Yeah could be legit, who knows? The ID plate is long gone. Nah, full time. If I did it'd be a centrifugal style.
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FORD TFI Module Diagnostics and Troubleshooting
Outback Jack replied to SPArKy_Dave's topic in Auto Electrics
Great write up Sparky, should definitely be a sticky. Top stuff! Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk -
Thanks Banno. Will do that.
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Your Falcon is stalling/dieing or sputtering when hot but runs when it cools off. This can be caused by a faulty TFI and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Problematic TFI's can give off codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT).o To start with, here are some links you may find helpful: TFI Worksheet (Strongly recommend you print this worksheet) TFI Remote Mounting Ford TFI Module Litigation Settlement Quick Checks Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) pertaining to the ignition system: TFI Stall NO Start - TFI Module Diagnosis and Sealing: This bulletin addresses loss of module ground due to salt and moisture entering a module mounting screw. TFI Engine NO Start/Stall at Idle - New Ignition Module: This TSB talks about an internal short-circuit in some model TFI modules. Driveability Concerns - Moist EEC-IV Connectors: This bulletin asks the tech to check for unsealed EEC-IV connectors and check for moisture or corrosion. Wiring: Always check your wiring. Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out. The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger. This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal. Notice the defective insulation. Heat Is Your Enemy!: The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted TFI. If your TFI is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT). General Information The TFI-IV distributor ignition system consists of the following components: Thick Film Ignition (TFI) modules Distributor Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor Ignition coil The distributor ignition system designed by Ford has two distinct configurations. The first configuration is known as the distributor mounted system, because the TFI is mounted directly on the distributor housing. The second configuration is known as a remote mount system, since the TFI is mounted on the engine or front fender apron. The distributor used by this system is sealed and houses the CMP sensor. The distributor does not utilize vacuum or centrifugal advance mechanisms; the ignition timing is automatically controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the TFI. Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby by creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module. System Operation The CMP sensor, housed inside the distributor, responds to a rotating metallic shutter mounted on the distributor shaft. This rotating shutter produces a digital Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal, which is used by the PCM and TFI to provide base timing information, determine engine speed (rpm) and crankshaft position. The distributor shaft rotates at one-half crankshaft speed, therefore the shutter rotates once for every two crankshaft revolutions. The TFI functions in either one of two modes: push start or Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). The push start mode allows for increased dwell, or coil on time, when starting the engine. During this mode, the TFI determines when to turn on the ignition coil based on engine speed information. The coil is turned off, thereby firing, whenever a rising edge of a SPark OUTput (SPOUT) signal is received. The SPOUT signal is generated by the PCM, and provides spark timing information to the TFI. During the push start mode, the SPOUT signal only indicates the timing for coil firing; the falling edge of the SPOUT signal is ignored. Despite the name, the push start mode is also enabled during engine starting with the ignition key. Do not attempt to push start a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission. The rotary armature has open areas called windows and tabs called vanes The vane interrupts the magnetic field passing through the Hall effect device During the CCD mode, both edges of the SPOUT signal are utilized. The leading edge of the SPOUT signal is used by the ICM in the same manner as during the push start mode. The falling edge of the signal is generated to control the timing for turning the ignition coil on (the TFI no longer controls this function as during the push start mode). During the CCD mode, the coil on time, or dwell, is entirely controlled by the PCM through the SPOUT signal. In the event that the SPOUT signal from the PCM is disrupted, the TFI will use the PIP signal from the CMP to fire the ignition coil, which results in a fixed spark angle and dwell. Diagnosis & Testing Service Precautions Always turn the key OFF and isolate both ends of a circuit whenever testing for shorts or continuity. Never measure voltage or resistance directly at the processor connector. Always disconnect solenoids and switches from the harness before measuring for continuity, resistance or energizing by way of a 8-volt source. When disconnecting connectors, inspect for damaged or pushed-out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service if required. Preliminary Checks Visually inspect the engine compartment to ensure that all vacuum lines and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected. Examine all wiring harness and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions. Ensure that the TFI is securely fastened to the front fender apron. Be certain that the battery is fully charged and that all accessories are OFF during the diagnosis. Test Procedures Perform the test procedures in the order in which they are presented here. Ignition Coil Secondary Voltage Test Coil Voltage Test #1 - Crank Mode 1 - Connect a spark tester between the ignition coil wire and a good engine ground. 2 - Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester. 3 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4 - If no spark occurs, check the following: a. Inspect the ignition coil for damage or carbon tracking. b. Check that the distributor shaft is rotating when the engine is being cranked. c. If the results in Steps a and b are okay, go to Test #4. 5 - If a spark did occur, check the distributor cap and rotor for damage or carbon tracking. Go to the Coil Voltage Test #2. Coil Voltage Test #2 - Run Mode 1 - Fully apply the parking brake. Place the gear shift lever in Neutral (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission). CAUTION - Failure to perform this step may result in the vehicle moving when the starter is subsequently engaged during the test. 2 - Disconnect the S terminal wire at the starter relay. Attach a remote starter switch. 3 - Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. 4 - Using the remote starter switch, crank the engine and check for spark. 5 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6 - If no spark occurred, the problem lies with the wiring harness. Inspect the wiring harness for short circuits, open circuits and other defects. Go to Test #3. 7 - If a spark did occur, the problem is not in the ignition system. Wiring Harness Test #3 - Voltage Check 1 - Separate wiring harness connector from ignition module. Inspect for dirt, corrosion and damage. NOTE: Push connector tabs to separate. 2 - Verify that the wire to the S terminal of starter relay is disconnected. 3 - Attach negative (-) VOM lead to distributor base. 4 - Measure battery voltage. 5 - Following the appropriate table below, measure connector terminal voltage by attaching VOM to small straight pin inserted into connector terminal and turning ignition switch to position shown. CAUTION - Do not allow straight pin to contact electrical ground. TFI Without CCD Connector Terminal Wire / Circuit Ignition Switch Test Position #3 Run Circuit Run and Start #4 Start Circuit Start TFI With CCD Connector Terminal Wire / Circuit Ignition Switch Test Position #3 Run Circuit Run and Start 6 - Turn ignition switch to Off position. 7 - Remove straight pin. 8 - Reconnect wire to S terminal of starter relay. 9 - Was the value at least 90 percent of battery voltage in each case? a. - If yes, replace TFI module. b. - If no then: 1 - Inspect for faults in wiring harness and connectors. 2 - Check for damaged or worn ignition switch. Distributor Hall Effect Test #4 1 - Place the transmission shift lever in the Park position (A/T) or Neutral (M/T) position and set the parking brake. CAUTION - Failure to perform this step may result in the vehicle moving when the starter is subsequently engaged during the test. 2 - Disconnect the harness connector from the TFI module and connect the TFI tester. 3 - Connect the red lead from the tester to the (+) positive side of the battery. 4 - Disconnect the wire at the S terminal of the starter relay and attach remote starter switch. 5 - Crank the engine using the remote starter switch and note the status of the two LED lamps. 6 - Remove the tester and remote starter switch. 7 - Reconnect the wire to the starter relay and the connector to the TFI. 8 - Did the PIP light blink? a. - If Yes, go to Test #6. b. - If No, remove distributor cap and verify rotation. If OK, go to Test #5. TFI Module Resistance Test #5 1 - Remove the TFI from the distributor or the front fender apron. 2 - Measure the resistance between the TFI terminals as shown below: a. - GND-PIP IN: should be greater than 60 ohms. b. - PIP PWR-PIP IN: should be less than 2,000 ohms. c. - PIP PWR-TFI PWR: should be less than 200 ohms. d. - GND-IGN GND: should be less than 2 ohms. e. - PIP IN-PIP: should be less than 200 ohms. 3 - If any of these checks failed, replace the TFI with a new one. TFI Module Test #6 1 - Use status of Tach light from Test #4. If Yes then go to Test #7. 2 - Did the Tach light blink? If No, replace TFI module and check for spark using the method described in Test #1. If spark was not present, replace the coil also. System Test #7 1 - Disconnect the pin-in-line connector near the TFI. 2 - Crank the engine 3 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4 - If a spark did occur, check the PIP and ignition ground wires for continuity. If okay, the problem is not in the ignition system. 5 - If no spark occurs, check the voltage at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil with the ignition switch in RUN. 6 - If the reading is not within battery voltage, check for a worn or damaged ignition switch. 7 - If the reading is within battery voltage, check for faults in the wiring between the coil and TFI module terminal No. 2 or any additional wiring or components connected to that circuit. Spark Timing Advance Test #8 Spark timing advance is controlled by the EEC system. This procedure checks the capability of the ignition module to receive the spark timing command from the EEC module. The use of a volt/ohmmeter is required. 1 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2 - Disconnect the pin-in-line connector (SPOUT connector) near the TFI module. 3 - Start the engine and measure the voltage, at idle, from the SPOUT connector to the distributor base. The reading should equal battery voltage. 4 - If the result is okay, the problem lies within the EEC-IV system. 5 - If the result was not satisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module. Check for damage, corrosion or dirt. Service as necessary. 6 - Measure the resistance between terminal No. 1 and the pin-in-line connector. This test is done at the ignition module connector only. The reading should be less than 1 ohms. 7 - If the reading is okay, replace the TFI module. 8 - If the result was not satisfactory, service the wiring between the pin inline connector and the TFI connector. Our Old Testing Procedure STEP 1 Determine if the engine is getting fuel. If injector is fueling chances are the TFI electronics are ok. If the electronics fail the fuel system shuts down except for about 20 seconds of start of cranking. If no fueling or if it quits after 20 seconds of cranking go to step 2. STEP 2 Check for spark at one of the spark plugs. If spark is found, you may have a fuel system problem. If spark is not found, check for spark at the coil wire. If you have spark, you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wires. If you still have no spark, unplug the harness at the TFI module. With key off, there should be no voltage present at any terminals of the harness. With key in the run position there should be voltage at the "TFI POWER RUN" and the "TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminals. Pull the small wire off the starter solenoid so engine will not crank. Have an assistant try to crank the engine. There should be voltage at "TFI POWER RUN, TFI POWER CRANK (START SIGNAL IN), and TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminals. If there is not voltages present, there is a possible wiring problem. If voltages are ok, go to step 3. STEP 3 With coil wire removed to watch for spark, place ignition key in the run position. Momentarily touch a jumper wire from "TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminal of the harness to a good ground. Spark should jump every time the jumper is grounded. Do not ground the jumper for more that a couple of seconds. If no spark is found, make sure that with the key in the run position there is voltage at one of the coil terminals. If voltage is present, the coil may be bad, go to step 4. If spark is found, the problem may be the TFI module or the PIP (profile ignition pickup or reluctor in the distributor) so go to step 5. STEP 4 We should now test the coil. Use an ohm meter and probe the resistance of the two small terminals, and you should find 0.3 to 1.0 ohm. If the resistance is not ok, it may be a bad coil. If the resistance is ok, probe one small terminal and the coil wire terminal. Resistance should be 8000 to 11,500 ohms. If the resistance is not ok, replace coil. If the resistance is ok, go to step 5. STEP 5 Testing the pickup coil (PIP) in the distributor is not an easy task, and best to test the TFI module first, then replace the pickup coil (PIP) if the TFI module tests ok. I have seen very few pickup coils on Ford TFI systems go bad. Test the TFI module according to the chart below. These values may be valid only on an OEM module, but may apply to aftermarket. TFI Terminals to jump Resistance (OHMS) HALL EFFECT GROUND HALL EFFECT POWER PIP PIP out 12.8K 1.2K 100 SPOUT in 17.4K 5.8K 4.7K START SIGNAL in 1000 12.6K 13.7K RUN POWER in 11.5K 100 1200 COIL NEGATIVE 4.2K 15.8K 16.9K IGNITION GROUND 0.0 11.6K 12.7K HALL EFFECT POWER 11.5K PIP 12.6K 1100 DISTRIBUTOR BASE 0.0K 12K 13.1K
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yes use the a/c compressor as the fake belt drive
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An apocalypse Clevo! Just needs a part time supercharger - Mad Max style?
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Find a ford xg ute or any e-series. Same size and fit as x-series but just yellow that’s all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thom, I was also running a 3" elbow, 3" stainless pipe and a K&N pod filter tucked behind the passenger headlight,which at the time seemed like a good idea. I realise now all I am doing is sucking hot air from the engine bay. Also have the feeling I have lost a lot of intake velocity by using it. The Outback runs a cyclonic barrel type air cleaner in an enclosure that has a scoop at the front of the bonnet to drag cool air in. I was going to make a modified pipe to fit inside this enclosure to run the K&N pod filter, so it drew cold air from outside, looked stock and had good flow. I am still going to use the Original Outback air filter enclosure but have taken the plastic cover off the standard air filter as it covers 1/2 the surface area of it. The pod filter has half the surface area of the now modified standard filter. K&N Pod filter height- 13cm. Average outside diameter- 45cm. 585cm surface area. Outback Ryco filter height- 28cm. Average outside diameter- 43cm. 1204cm surface area. So I think with paper being more restrictive than the pod filter, the ryco will still perform as well, if not better with better protection from dust particles. Time to fit it all up..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
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Thank you Sir, As always you are a wealth of 4L knowledge. I may play with j3 chip tuning later, but for now I think the EL Xr6 tune should suit my needs. Maybe Santa will bring me a j3 tuning package for Christmas....ho ho ho.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
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Blocking it off will be fine
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Thanks Thom, your a legend. Can't wait to see how she goes with EL XR6 ecu. I didn't realise you had to disconnect the vaccum to set the idle rate on an adjustable fuel reg. My bad. Last time I did it on my stock 4L I think I set it at 29psi, (200kpa) but had vaccum hose connected at idle.....Doh! Do I just block off the vac tube whilst setting the reg? Thanks for your help mate. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
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I actually ran a bbm on an xh log ecu for a long time before I started playing with j3 chips and it ran really well
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The tune will be fine without a bbm hooked up and below 3800rpm it should be the same as a non bbm tune, having an el ecu will let you fit a knock sensor if you desire to. As far as I remember (granted it was 10 years ago last time I played with fuel pressure) a base 4.0 tune has a 45psi fuel pressure reg and an xr6 has a 55psi fuel pressure reg set at idle with the vacuum source disconnected
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Hey@Thom, I am giving the Outback a bit of a Birthday and wanted your input please mate. My motor is stock bottom end. Head is 94AB with stock beehive springs and has 3 angle valve seat cut. Shaved 60 thou. Cam is Crow 222825. .489 lift.(stage 1). MLS-R 1.3mm head gasket. 3" intake and K&N pod filter. Log manifold. Extractors into hi flow 2 1/2" exhaust. Will be running iPR adjustable fuel reg. Mantic ER2 Stage 1 clutch. Manual 5spd with 3.45 hydratrak. Running a stock 3DAC ecu. Locked timing at 36 degrees BTDC. I have an EL Xr6 6TAC ecu coming for her, should suit my set up. I know I have to change base timing to 0 BTDC if I want to run ECU spark control, so that's cool. I was wondering on two things, running the EL ecu with a Log manifold instead of BBM , what to expect.... And also the correct fuel pressure at idle to suit the EL XR6 tune..... Thanks mate, Outback Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
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I have an 1989 XF 4.1 ute. The cap on the overflow bottle is cracking from age. The bottle is fine. What have the others replaced the cap with? I also need to do the same to the washer fluid bottle. Any help would be appreciated.
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AAAC joined the community
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At least it will run on paint thinner Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
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When I finally replaced my XF utes heater tap as it had a leak & didn't work found it was blocked solid, changed to new one & heater finally worked, till it split the heater core about 18mths later (which I still need to replace ), block off for thermostat housing is 3/8" (GAS), likes of supercheap have them in a blister pack on the stand with the trim clips & bolts packs. or if want to fit thermo fans later a Tridon TFS110 thermo fan switch will fit,
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Yeah also cab has hole for fuel filler in the LHR for behind seat fuel tank that was 73/74, 75 went to external fuel tank, think most High boys I've seen where 300 6cyl from factory whats the ID plate codes? my bro has a 302c we pulled down & found it that had open chamber heads, as did my mates XD fairmont wagon, previous owner said it was bit slow yeah with 7.8:1 comp we could see why.
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I have been doing some research into the EL ecu change into my XG and I'm just wondering how well it will go with no BBM manifold. I would like to keep my Log one. If I understand correctly the BBM has long runners for torque under 3,800rpm then switches a vaccum butterfly/solenoid to bypass the long runners and make the route to the head shorter for more top end. I'm just wondering if it will be OK with the Log Manifold and not cause any problems. My second concern is the ECU I purchased is an EL XR6 manual 3.45. 6TAC ecu, which suits my Outback specs nicely. I will have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator fitted by the time the ECU gets here but am unsure where I should set the pressure for the XR6 ecu. On my standard 4L the fuel pressure regulator is a 250kpa unit but pressure at idle is 200kpa, which is where I set the regulator at. I hope that's correct. Now I am aware of 2 regulator sizes for EL. One is 275kpa(standard) and other is 300kpa(XR6), but I am unsure as to what the idle pressures are for these. Would anyone please know the at idle specs. The adjustable reg should do the rest. Thanks, Outback Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
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Kelly Pllu changed their profile photo
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Yep, my Louisville chassis number looks similar only they are on the LHS rails top flange. Kenworth's are the same from that era.
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No wonder mine runs like crap warming up in the dead of winter. Summers fine. and thanks Mr Polson
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It's to with AC I believe, because non AC carby cars didn't have it, and EFI didn't have it (because computer controlled all the stuff Dave mentioned)
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nickoff joined the community
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Timothy France changed their profile photo
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The scallops on the heads are not 100% idiot proof, there were always anomalies in the 70's. "Boss" heads had screw in studs, RPO 83's and all such unicorns........ Not all orange rocker covers denote 302, not all XA GT's had black outs, not all XBGT's had colour coded bumpers....etc , etc.... Only true way is (unfortunately) to rip the heads off, measure the valves and combustion chambers.
