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  2. gerg

    towing a van with the ba

    1) in my experience with over-ride brakes, they work the car's brakes hard because the trailer will never match the braking force of the car (it can't work without the car braking more than the trailer... Plain physics). I would go with a Redarc brake controller, which is fully adjustable (and can be tested) from the driver's seat. 2) if the BA can tow 1600kg and the trailer is less than that, you're cheering. Just watch the ball weight. 3) the cooling system on these is pretty good if there are no blockages in the radiator (to airflow and the coolant going through it). The fans can pump some serious air at full tilt, and no doubt Ford tested these things to destruction in order to give them the tow rating that they have. Biggest factor is low speed/high load. Uphill, low speed towing on a long run will tax the system the hardest. Good move getting the trans cooler. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    Lining up two front doors on a ute

    Did you get there in the end? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  4. Today
  5. David seagull

    Lining up two front doors on a ute

    Thanks everyone
  6. Yesterday
  7. car10001

    towing a van with the ba

    hi guys as yous know already do plan to tow a van with the ba its just a matter of when, just a few things to ask 1. just to drive around town to get used to it will there be a rush to finish wiring up the electric brake controller and hope that you can find a van that still has override brakes to use or would you be better off finishing it so you have the option to tow vans with both electric or override brakes and are a bit easier on options meaning be prepared and more flexible with whats avaliable. most newer vans have electric brakes and it seems only ones from 70s or early to mid 80s have old override brakes and most from late 80s on seem to all have electric brakes the brake controller is in and the wires are there ready just hasent been finished wiring yet 2. would the ba be able to tow a aunts crussader van just quietly around wallaroo north beach area on a 1600kg tow bar if the vans not fully loaded and the brake controllers been wired, the vans about 18-20 feet long and tare is about 1400-1500kg. 3. would the radiator in it be upto towing or should you replace it with a bigger one even the water pump especially of theyre still original or you dont know when they were last changed if neither is currently leaking, do plan to get hoses done soon as possible or next service, have got a transmission cooler with a bypass setup though, just need to finish wiring up the electric brake controller and go through connections and test for power at blue wire in trailer harness
  8. Crazy2287

    More TFI Theory of Operation INFO

    Great info, thanks.
  9. no pattern happens engine hot or cold .was thinking
  10. picked one up was a scrap pile at at wreckers 94da manifold no idea what model its out of $15 plugs r different but looks smaller than ea one still thinking about custom bonnet scoop/airbox.
  11. Last week
  12. The only two things which can realistically cause issues like that, is either AC Ripple interference from bad diodes in the alternator rectifier, (both the Speedometer (transducer) and Tacho (distributor PIP hall sensor) are AC reluctance sensors - ie, they generate a small AC voltage) or a high resistance connection - a positive or earth connection, common to both the speedometer, tachometer/distributor/coil. ie, you're losing supply for minuscule amounts of time. Main power relays near the brake booster can fail as they warm up. Don't play swaptronics, look for commonalities between the affected components - Speedometer/Transducer, Tachometer/Distributor/Coil Is there any pattern to the problem occurrences? ie, after x amount of run-time, or only in hot/cold weather, etc.
  13. What car are You putting this late model TB in? i looked at doing this, but on a crossflow in an X series, the bonnet will not shut.
  14. cool miss Xfalcon assume normally opened/ closed would be electric side of things ? have a late throttle body with IAC mounted to it just haven't got there yet lol.
  15. @Panko explained it's(XF IAC) normally open(or closed, can't remember) and in an E series it's normally closed(or open, opposite/reverse) so he made a bracket and ran the hoses a different way.
  16. just swapped out tfi might try cluster swap next ran extra earths got EA setup on atm but same fault XF system ,so no airflow meter on atm new timing chain new EA coil inkectors etc do have IAC disconnected ATM till work out what works in reverse from XF to EA means lol
  17. those clusters can get a jumpy fault due to bad connections inside, i've fixed a few back 15yrs ago. they can get a tarnish/oxidizing on the pins joining the boards and dry/cracked joints.. this may be unrelated to the running of the engine. i'd have said earths or connections first also.. seems you have it sussed.. the dash earths are common to have bad connections(where the ECU lives and i think the drivers side has one also? ) engine to body earth is very important. other than that, air flow meters could be troublesome 20yrs ago, TFi, Coil, worn bushes in the dissy, worn timing chain.. all factors on EFI crossflows, even air leaks such as dipsticks etc are issues (IAC idle air controller valves could be gunked up)
  18. 2redrovers

    Lgp dedicated ford ticks over but won't stay alive

    Other than check all connections, relays, fuses and solenoids are working properly.. I don't know enough to suggest anything specific.
  19. gone over the earths even tinned the 6 wires that were going to one above rh headlight n soldered to the one larger connector didn't fix fault, but passenger power window goes up n down at speed now lol. found my paste now just got to get tfi off new ea dizzy haven't got around to striped a screw its always something.
  20. It would cause the tacho to be erratic. Not sure about the speedo. Bad earths usually cause instruments jumping around. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  21. Would that cause the dash to jump all over the place ?
  22. Have you tried testing or replacing the TFI module on the side of the dizzy? It may even be the heatsink paste is old and buggered and just needs old stuff scrapped off and new coating put on. Just be careful with the module, it doesn't pull off, after you undo the 2 screws, slide it downwards to disengage the connectors, if you pull it straight from the side you will break the connectors internally. Heatsink paste is Dow Corning 340 Try that, sounds like it's ok until it heats up. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  23. Hi all , have an intermittent fault XF EFI 4 speed sort of late ECU etc, but does it on XF system too. Is doing my head in, car runs fine then goes to hell no throttle take up misses etc which also causes the XF Fairmont digital cluster speedo and taco to jump all over the place. running out of things to try anyone encountered this ?
  24. Elmakko

    Lgp dedicated ford ticks over but won't stay alive

    Got the new converter in and she's doing the same thing anyone got any ideas?
  25. David seagull

    Lining up two front doors on a ute

    Cheers I will when I can
  26. STARK

    IAT sensor location

    I just took it to local engineering mob with a spare sensor n mark where wanted it.
  27. Panko

    IAT sensor location

    yeah thats what I tried to do, but Fed up and did it on the top side...course didn't measure before hand, the bonnet wouldn't close with it there. when the engine comes out for the new engine to go in, ill re do it like you have.
  28. gerg

    Lining up two front doors on a ute

    If the panel gaps are good, adjust the striker up/down/in/out to get it closing sweet. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
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