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Justin_2806 joined the community
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Confirming they are surprisingly the same
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Crossflow Engine Rebuild - tips and Help (Harrison Kotrolos)
Harrison Kotrolos replied to Harrison Kotrolos's topic in Crossflow
1.5 Years later, I've finally had time to remove the engine and tear it down. On holidays for the Anzac long weekend, but will post some photos and engine measurements once I'm back. The car has done ~5,000 KMS of street and strip, revving to 5.2K regularly, from memory the ROD bearing clearances coming out of the motor are around 0.019 - 0.029mm. Got the next version of the build planned out, it's final state made 185rwhp and 380NM torque ATW. Peak horsepower was at 5K and torque from 3 - 5K. My goal for this next build is to fall into the 250-300 RWHP range, I would like to get the RPM to 6.5K for PEAK and hit that over and over again without fail. To start, getting the engine entirely balanced again and block zero decked. I have two questions: I have a 3.3L engine with 200 rods lying around, I've always been interested in taking a 200 rod combo approach, I've read a handful of threads and aware it's expensive, hard and really for the 7K RPM mark. But the burning question I have is if anyone can point me to pistons I need to use for it, I keep seeing that I need specific/custom pistons to make 200 rods work in a 250 block. I have a virgin C2 Alloy head, I know the first thing I want to do is grind the point int he chamber down to reduce it becoming a hot spot. Could anyone recommend any other porting or valve work I should do for the power range and RPM range I'm aiming for? -
I'm going to assume they are the same, But when I've done the eb diff I would have used the XF bar because I didn't get an EB one with the diff, and the wagon EB diff I fitted to my ute also didn't have a sway bar so it didn't get one (ute doesn't have one)
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Hi All, just curious for those of you, who have put in a EF diff into an XF what watts link and sway bar did you use, the one from the XF or EF?
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TO BE CONTINUED (when i repair what i broke, trying to fix the clock globe) CRUMBOLIUM (is what i'm calling the plastic housing on the back of the heater controls) * be super careful and only remove if necessary after reading the below. it took me looking in every AU at Pick a part, 4 remaining broken ones to piece together another cracked heater control that might work (mine only has a broken cable mount, so i may not even use it yet as it's unknown if it will work on the other parts) i'll add some more photos in the next week now, you probably SHOULDN'T need to remove this cable behind the glovebox normally, but that's only because when new, the cable holder was strong enough to unclip without breaking. it's similar to the XF type, but instead of a metal clip that flies off and gets lost, it flips up(quite tightly clipped down, lever with a small screw driver to flip it up from the sides) the other clip to the right is released by pushing the small screw driver over the cable outer and under the bitey bit of the clip and levering it out until it pushes the cable out. (image below was from a helpful facebook group member that took a video of it) the facia, which i'll detail a bit further when i go in to fix it again will be able to swing out further without breaking as easily (if not already broken) DEAR ON EBAY (sold prices below) - Earlier
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A 78DA-7003-AB gearbox, is from an 81' onwards XD They were used in either 3.3/4.1 or 4.9 XD's, possibly very early XE's. Shorter ratio gearbox, I believe
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Looking at the Exedy website, all the single rails (even 3speed) are 10 spline on the clutch friction plate 3speeds just have a smaller diameter shaft at 24mm, over 27.5mm The info regarding 19/20/21/22 splines, relates to the opposite end of the input shaft, internal to the gearbox? First screenshot is all XD, and XE up to 05/82 Second screenshot is XE only, from 05/82
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Would you mind trying to decipher my tag. Judging by all the research I'm doing I'm hopeful the first gear ratio isn't to high as I have plans for it getting bolted behind a 351c Seen Chestnut comments saying he had a 015 but 016 could be different all again
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i had a quick look through that, I've never known one to be different, but anything's possible with Ford i guess.
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odd, i've never seen a different clutch plate needed unless it was for the 3 speed or the rubbish 3.3gearboxes (mitsubishi sigma box in 4 or 5 speed i believe ) i'd just count the one on yours
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Was off the very detailed post Sparky had put up a number of years ago
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I'd disagree with that screenshot info wonder if @Thom or @SPArKy_Dave could help confirm it, they are all same as whatever a T5 is (pretty sure it's 10 spline)
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That screenshot has the info that I was going off. Been talking to the bloke on bought the package off, feeling confident gonna be OK & have now done a deal for the Flywheel, pressure plate etc that the previous owner offered him
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XB to XF sedan tailshafts would be the same for bw35,bw40 (auto) C4/C10, single rail and T5 manual.. you'd be able to use yours. FMX and top loader have different spline count on the tailshaft yoke.. clutch splines are the same from my understanding single rail to T5 (not sure on the V8 one but betting it's same) the 3 speed had different splines into the clutch (input) and the top loader one might be different?(no idea) 6cyl didn't have 20 spline input, well unless the sigma style 3.3 litre box had that much on it, it's super rare by comparison and is bolted to the bell housing from the inside .. and would barely handle a 250 crossflow let alone a V8..
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Thanks Dean. Still tweaking my brain hard out with different options I can take,one thing I've come across narrowing down the configuration of the single rail I've purchased is the spline on the input shaft with the V8 mainly being 10 spline & 6cyl 20 or 21 spline & I doubt whoever over the years & are assuming they didn't go the hassle of replacing the input shaft to begin with ,which in turn would narrow down my first gear ratio being to high . I have ruled out the idea of the E SERIES T5 though, as he wants $6500 but another idea which is pretty good is go ahead with the conversion & if it shits itself then replace it with a toploader which is relatively easy to drill the bell housing to fit & the tail shaft is apparently the same length as the single rail so in turn won't have any hassle incurring with the drive shaft. Top loader come up every now & then for good money but no cheap one's over here at the moment & they're all asking about 4k Xe drive shaft is included with the deal & that should just bolt straight into my XF with no drama over the length
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E series XR8 would likely put the gear stick back further, and require a fair pain in the ass. the V8 e series box has a much longer input shaft than the single rail/top loader. there's a thread or 2 here where people have fitted the T5 from XF to EL (EB onwards are better/with synchro on reverse) and i've had one also on a 6cyl bell housing, that would be how i'd go into an X sereis, it comprises Top loader or single rail bell housing, clutch/flywheel, and modding the bell housing a bit (few different ways, also Castlemaine Rod Shop did a bell housing also back in the day, still available, not sure what it translates to NZ dollarydoos with postage and conversion https://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousing-kit-gearbox-ford-t5-6-cyl-engine-cleve ) check this thread out, there should be links to others
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I'm pretty sure this one I've bought is now from a 6cyl Cortina also but 80km/hr in first from 351 gearbox sounds awesome. To begin with knowing that it was behind a 302c sounded like the go & the whole complete combo I snapped it up before someone else. Also admittedly got a bit confused with the toploaders thinking the single rail a close 2nd & then all the work involved doing the conversion, plus certification it would suck badly if the box went bang . There's a rebuilt E series XR8 T5 over here on Trademe plus same seller has a new WC T5 combo but is asking 8k,long way off the $1800 I've just paid.
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I'll skip joining another group, there's often a lot of smart helpful people on these private facebook groups, so you probably got some valid feedback. the single rail i used was from a cortina, i had to swap the extension housing to the falcon type, i chose it because it had the easiest 1st gear for the 2.92 diff gears i had. (i had a 351 single rail on a 250 crossflow years earlier, and 1st gear with the 2.92 diff seemed to go close to 80kmh, but it was a hard start on a hill. hard to know what box i'd choose these days, all manuals are rare, worn and expensive.
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No worries Dean. I'm leaning towards just on selling the combo deal I got. If you're on Facebook I got quite abit of feedback from a post from the group below.
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Sorry i've been out all day, the clutch fork on the drivers side is odd, I've never seen a cable type V8 single rail bell housing, but that's likely what it is. does it have a mount for the hydraulic slave on the passenger side? that's usually where the V8 ones were, with a push fork (compact) yeah as dvfalcon mentioned, change the selector shaft seal at minimum, you'll need to remove the extension housing to change it, after knocking the roll pin out of the remote shifter shaft. the gearsticks can pull out, but there are many aftermarket repair kits now, and some in brass which weren't around when i had single rails. (should be nice) also someone here (newer member last year) posted that they do a short shift kit for them also. i actually like these boxes, but when i slapped a second hand one behind my almost stock 351 i blew it up in a couple of weeks, got another and blew that up in days, and another went noisy in a week.. so had one fully rebuild and it didn't die with 80,000 HARD kms , so i'd suggest putting bearings in it at minimum. ( i was told to use motor oil in mine, but the book said to use trans fluid, so who knows what/if there's any difference in them in that regard?)
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Thanks,so really not to much of a bigger deal & nothing seriously putting off from doing the conversion . Few yrs ago went the full Monty on a Tremec TKX 5 spd behind a 408w XF ute.
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As Dean said first gear is the only difference. They don't like to much of a hard time you will rip the gear stick thread out the top of the gearbox, or break the selector fork. They also hard on the seal on the selector shaft as they are all well worn. there are different versions of the output housing on other model cars Dale
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it is more a laminate skin on the outside almost like a tape and not to durable i have a NOS at home and it has pukkered on storage and creased the layer Dale
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Images and videos need to be hosted elsewhere and linked into your posts to show here. This is the same policy for everyone and has been from the beginning. It keeps our footprint down and therefore the costs involved in hosting the forum to a minimum. For mobile use, the tapatalk app is the easiest way to upload photos. I use an old version of the app which has no daily limits on posting etc, downside is I get no notifications but that doesn't matter much to me. For video, use YouTube to upload then post the link in your thread to share. You can also use other sites like imgur to host photos. There is a thread showing how to do this on the forum (look at Dean's signature for link)
