Harrison Kotrolos

My bad, it is indeed a 250 crossflow. Got a few more engines I'm hunting down, but may need to take the approach on redoing a whole new block to suit the cranks I have. Unless someone on the forums has a earlier, flange crankshaft for a 250 crossflow lying around

Nothing rare. Am trying to source another crank for my engine as the snub on it got bent. The block is an earlier one with the two-piece rear seal and flange on the crank, which I'm finding hard to replace, I have 3 newer cranks with the small and large rear main seal. Can I use later cranks in the earlier block? (I.e the single rear seal in a two piece seal block?)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GI7cMHoTmeZD0tKasdzqKzA4PvI2caMq/view?usp=drivesdk

Hi all, Throwing it out there before I make the trip to engine builders. Is this crankshaft serviceable? Looks like it had a previous life of burnouts. The keyway was half squashed and the timing gear had play to wear the crank down. Am on the hunt to replace my bent crankshaft https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GI7cMHoTmeZD0tKasdzqKzA4PvI2caMq/view?usp=drivesdk

1.5 Years later, I've finally had time to remove the engine and tear it down. On holidays for the Anzac long weekend, but will post some photos and engine measurements once I'm back. The car has done ~5,000 KMS of street and strip, revving to 5.2K regularly, from memory the ROD bearing clearances coming out of the motor are around 0.019 - 0.029mm. Got the next version of the build planned out, it's final state made 185rwhp and 380NM torque ATW. Peak horsepower was at 5K and torque from 3 - 5K. My goal for this next build is to fall into the 250-300 RWHP range, I would like to get the RPM to 6.5K for PEAK and hit that over and over again without fail. To start, getting the engine entirely balanced again and block zero decked. I have two questions: I have a 3.3L engine with 200 rods lying around, I've always been interested in taking a 200 rod combo approach, I've read a handful of threads and aware it's expensive, hard and really for the 7K RPM mark. But the burning question I have is if anyone can point me to pistons I need to use for it, I keep seeing that I need specific/custom pistons to make 200 rods work in a 250 block. I have a virgin C2 Alloy head, I know the first thing I want to do is grind the point int he chamber down to reduce it becoming a hot spot. Could anyone recommend any other porting or valve work I should do for the power range and RPM range I'm aiming for?

This weirdo asking for pics.......... Let me know of any particular angle or view and I shall get them for you (won't be until the weekend though)

Noice, so if you listen to the video's again you will also see/hear the starter start and then cut out and it all goes quite, no spinning or grinding. While I have an ECU all the original wiring is cranking the car and the ECU has no control on the starter or distributing power. Any thoughts on that one? Back connection in steering column? Dying inhibitor switch? My plan for this weekend I think is follows Pull starter and take off transmission cover plate and inspect flexplate for play. Run clean new wiring with an external switch and relay and test starter on a separate circut. Test inhibitor switch.

Will pull the starter out on the weekend and check for play, yeah it sounds even worse in person. I've been dealing with it, but now it's just embarrsing when people are watching your car and your taking 10 minutes to start :) Yep, I think I got two spots where they are munted and when the mechanic had a looked he said overall the teeth had all been worn bad. So will check for play to start but will probably pull the engine out to replace flexplate, I have to change the rear main seal also :( I have 12 degrees I think set on timing. Balancer is brand new, as the old one tore the outer ring from the inner hub on the dyno (Great fun) Will need to make another post to show how it was done, but I'm one of those idiots who would die for the crossy and spent a bunch of money converting it to EFI and running a Haltech ECU with all the bells and whistles so I've been testing this with injectors off and on and problem is the same. I have thought maybe the starter is damaged and then getting heat soaked sitting there and making the problem worse.

The link should be fixed now, my good man. Yeah understood. My flexplate holds on with four bolts onto the torque converter. I also thought it was flexplate, which in some instances it does sound like it. But it grinds in any position or cuts out and dies but hopefully, the videos show that it's not just jumping, it's just going nuts.

Apologies forgot to add. Even if it does start to crank properly, it's so damn loud and sounds like it's grinding itself to death. I've also changed the starter relay, new 30 AMP wiring for earth and power to switch connector on starter, new battery and battery is at 13.4V Google drive to videos below (because they are massive for some reason) First video is in PARK second is in NEUTRAL https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KICR7HD7o51hgR22cT9haI4Ro9dvL-TT?usp=drive_link

Hi All, I'm chasing my tail on this one. I'm on my THIRD starter motor because I love killing them. I will preface this with I know I've sheared a couple of teeth on the flexplate, but it doesn't explain my issues. My car just hate's starting, I've tried adjusting the shifter linkage because I thought maybe the inhibitator switch isn't lining up, I've tried Bosch Starters, Chinese Starters and all. In no apparent pattern or order I have the following issues, the issues do seem to get worse the hotter the car is: Starter grinds against flexplate Starter starts turning the engine then stops and cuts all power to car Starter starts turning engine and then just starts spinning This happens whether I'm in Park or Neutral. I've taken it to my mechanic who actually backed the starter out and rotated it a little which improved it slightly. I've got a BW35, behind a Crossy 4.1. I'm planning on ordering the following to get a fresh FlexPlate with all the teeth on it https://automatictransmission.com.au/shop/ford-xy-xa-xb-xc-xd-xe-xf-6cyl-borg-warner-35-and-40-flexplate/?srsltid=AfmBOoqFVDdLaWauWTbQEhwmvDvaiDNEZ6lWfIhV1IYaU88SxR78ykF0# Will upload a video shortly. A couple of questions to fire: Would there be different starters for C4 or BW crossflows? Would there be different flexplate teeth count that I should watch out for? Any other help or guidance would be awesome. Thanks, Harry

@SPArKy_Dave Or anyone else. C2 Alloy head, what spark plugs should I be using? I'm currently running NBK BP5ES, but you can also get NGK BRE527Y-11 for XF Alloy Head. The BRE527Y-11 has a longer electrode and sticks into the chamber more.

Would be great if you can re-title the thread, will be all Crossflow related, think some people might be really interested in what I'm doing Title - Crossflow Engine Rebuild - Threat and Help? Okay, so sounds like I'm on the money, I need to fix up my shroud for my oil cooler to be more efficient, as when it get's up to 50 - 60 degrees, my oil pressure will drop down to 380-390 KPA (~55 PSI) Thanks Thom, will update the thread as I pull it down and re-measure everything. Bearings are already 0.030 bigger, and to get tighter clearances would require a re-grind and jumping up to 0.04. I'm pretty happy with the oil pressure, probably could do with a better sump though.

Hi All, I got a worked 250 Crossflow that I must pull out and tear down. I've had to replace the flywheel and harmonic balancer, and it's starting to build some harmonics above 4000rpm. Everything else seems healthy, but I thought I checked with the experts. It's got a new STD Mellings Oil Pump (only about 9 months old), and running 20W-50, my oil pressure will range from 320 kpa (46 PSI) to 410 kpa (59 PSI). Breakdown of oil pressure: Cold Idle: 380 KPA/55PSI Hot Idle (900RPM): 315 KPA/45 PSI Hot RPM (5000RPM): 410KPA/59PSI How do those numbers stack up? I'll be upping compression for this next rebuild, and the car is used for weekends and tracking. Should I try and raise the bypass on the oil pump a little? Get the RPM pressure up some more? Any advice is welcome. Also, where should I make a thread to track the engine rebuild and ask any questions I might have? Thanks, Harry

Some photos of the data logged from today