Harrison Kotrolos

1.5 Years later, I've finally had time to remove the engine and tear it down. On holidays for the Anzac long weekend, but will post some photos and engine measurements once I'm back. The car has done ~5,000 KMS of street and strip, revving to 5.2K regularly, from memory the ROD bearing clearances coming out of the motor are around 0.019 - 0.029mm. Got the next version of the build planned out, it's final state made 185rwhp and 380NM torque ATW. Peak horsepower was at 5K and torque from 3 - 5K. My goal for this next build is to fall into the 250-300 RWHP range, I would like to get the RPM to 6.5K for PEAK and hit that over and over again without fail. To start, getting the engine entirely balanced again and block zero decked. I have two questions: I have a 3.3L engine with 200 rods lying around, I've always been interested in taking a 200 rod combo approach, I've read a handful of threads and aware it's expensive, hard and really for the 7K RPM mark. But the burning question I have is if anyone can point me to pistons I need to use for it, I keep seeing that I need specific/custom pistons to make 200 rods work in a 250 block. I have a virgin C2 Alloy head, I know the first thing I want to do is grind the point int he chamber down to reduce it becoming a hot spot. Could anyone recommend any other porting or valve work I should do for the power range and RPM range I'm aiming for?

This weirdo asking for pics.......... Let me know of any particular angle or view and I shall get them for you (won't be until the weekend though)

Noice, so if you listen to the video's again you will also see/hear the starter start and then cut out and it all goes quite, no spinning or grinding. While I have an ECU all the original wiring is cranking the car and the ECU has no control on the starter or distributing power. Any thoughts on that one? Back connection in steering column? Dying inhibitor switch? My plan for this weekend I think is follows Pull starter and take off transmission cover plate and inspect flexplate for play. Run clean new wiring with an external switch and relay and test starter on a separate circut. Test inhibitor switch.

Will pull the starter out on the weekend and check for play, yeah it sounds even worse in person. I've been dealing with it, but now it's just embarrsing when people are watching your car and your taking 10 minutes to start :) Yep, I think I got two spots where they are munted and when the mechanic had a looked he said overall the teeth had all been worn bad. So will check for play to start but will probably pull the engine out to replace flexplate, I have to change the rear main seal also :( I have 12 degrees I think set on timing. Balancer is brand new, as the old one tore the outer ring from the inner hub on the dyno (Great fun) Will need to make another post to show how it was done, but I'm one of those idiots who would die for the crossy and spent a bunch of money converting it to EFI and running a Haltech ECU with all the bells and whistles so I've been testing this with injectors off and on and problem is the same. I have thought maybe the starter is damaged and then getting heat soaked sitting there and making the problem worse.

The link should be fixed now, my good man. Yeah understood. My flexplate holds on with four bolts onto the torque converter. I also thought it was flexplate, which in some instances it does sound like it. But it grinds in any position or cuts out and dies but hopefully, the videos show that it's not just jumping, it's just going nuts.

Apologies forgot to add. Even if it does start to crank properly, it's so damn loud and sounds like it's grinding itself to death. I've also changed the starter relay, new 30 AMP wiring for earth and power to switch connector on starter, new battery and battery is at 13.4V Google drive to videos below (because they are massive for some reason) First video is in PARK second is in NEUTRAL https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KICR7HD7o51hgR22cT9haI4Ro9dvL-TT?usp=drive_link

Hi All, I'm chasing my tail on this one. I'm on my THIRD starter motor because I love killing them. I will preface this with I know I've sheared a couple of teeth on the flexplate, but it doesn't explain my issues. My car just hate's starting, I've tried adjusting the shifter linkage because I thought maybe the inhibitator switch isn't lining up, I've tried Bosch Starters, Chinese Starters and all. In no apparent pattern or order I have the following issues, the issues do seem to get worse the hotter the car is: Starter grinds against flexplate Starter starts turning the engine then stops and cuts all power to car Starter starts turning engine and then just starts spinning This happens whether I'm in Park or Neutral. I've taken it to my mechanic who actually backed the starter out and rotated it a little which improved it slightly. I've got a BW35, behind a Crossy 4.1. I'm planning on ordering the following to get a fresh FlexPlate with all the teeth on it https://automatictransmission.com.au/shop/ford-xy-xa-xb-xc-xd-xe-xf-6cyl-borg-warner-35-and-40-flexplate/?srsltid=AfmBOoqFVDdLaWauWTbQEhwmvDvaiDNEZ6lWfIhV1IYaU88SxR78ykF0# Will upload a video shortly. A couple of questions to fire: Would there be different starters for C4 or BW crossflows? Would there be different flexplate teeth count that I should watch out for? Any other help or guidance would be awesome. Thanks, Harry

@SPArKy_Dave Or anyone else. C2 Alloy head, what spark plugs should I be using? I'm currently running NBK BP5ES, but you can also get NGK BRE527Y-11 for XF Alloy Head. The BRE527Y-11 has a longer electrode and sticks into the chamber more.

Would be great if you can re-title the thread, will be all Crossflow related, think some people might be really interested in what I'm doing Title - Crossflow Engine Rebuild - Threat and Help? Okay, so sounds like I'm on the money, I need to fix up my shroud for my oil cooler to be more efficient, as when it get's up to 50 - 60 degrees, my oil pressure will drop down to 380-390 KPA (~55 PSI) Thanks Thom, will update the thread as I pull it down and re-measure everything. Bearings are already 0.030 bigger, and to get tighter clearances would require a re-grind and jumping up to 0.04. I'm pretty happy with the oil pressure, probably could do with a better sump though.

Hi All, I got a worked 250 Crossflow that I must pull out and tear down. I've had to replace the flywheel and harmonic balancer, and it's starting to build some harmonics above 4000rpm. Everything else seems healthy, but I thought I checked with the experts. It's got a new STD Mellings Oil Pump (only about 9 months old), and running 20W-50, my oil pressure will range from 320 kpa (46 PSI) to 410 kpa (59 PSI). Breakdown of oil pressure: Cold Idle: 380 KPA/55PSI Hot Idle (900RPM): 315 KPA/45 PSI Hot RPM (5000RPM): 410KPA/59PSI How do those numbers stack up? I'll be upping compression for this next rebuild, and the car is used for weekends and tracking. Should I try and raise the bypass on the oil pump a little? Get the RPM pressure up some more? Any advice is welcome. Also, where should I make a thread to track the engine rebuild and ask any questions I might have? Thanks, Harry

Some photos of the data logged from today

Bloody awesome, place is a gold mine of knowledge, don't want it leaving me Let me know if the owner is around, I work in IT and can get the cert renewed. Have done. When running both the ECU gauge and original cluster gauge, they operated identically and showed similar results. Also then double checked all wiring, moved the ECU gauge directly onto the block (where the factory mounts), and changed to a new sensor as well. All the exact same results. Can also verify it's happening, you can feel slight metal on metal, and I think the long drive from Sydney back to Orange did more damage than I want to know, as a small bump noise is occurring when the pressure drops. I've already flushed the system twice and tried various oils, all with similar results. Uploading today's drive now, when the oil is cold on the first start and for the following 5 - 10 minutes, I get consistent pressure, both driving and holding RPM. But once it's warmed up the erratic behaviour starts. Even with 20W-60, I guess going a heavier oil might help, but I would have thought by that point I would hear some serious knocking or noises at any RPM? What would be your recommended next step?

Hi all, Not sure if this forum is still alive, given the expired certificate an all. But I've got a terrible oil pressure problem, full story is on this forum - https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=6744749#post6744749 Quick run down on the engine Was re-built by Duncan Foster in Sydney around 8-9 years ago Balanced and blueprinted Is now running a C2 alloy head, rollers, XF EFI and Haltech. Otherwise all stock internally My latest update from today So removed all the oil cooling and ran the engine stock. New Z9 filter, HPR10 Racing oil, 20W-50. Initially started okay, around 350KPA, and that was the end. Engine did run hotter without the cooler, and when I stopped the car it sounded like a waterfall, at least 2-3 litres of oil dropped to the sump. Is it normal for so much oil to be running to the bottom? I checked the oil while the car was running, nothing showed up on the dipstick....is that normal? But otherwise, occasional 350kpa of oil pressure, otherwise oil pressure below 100kpa. It was just pain watching it, car wasn't making any terrible sounds, actually sounded fine. Expect for the flat spot where it was at 5, I was just parked seeing what would happen, it just sat at 5kpa, never came up or anything. Here is a photo of the data logged, showing pressure, RPM, throttle and coolant Haltech Logs Thoughts from anyone would be great, I'm hoping its a bad oil pump problem, but I think some bearings are just done in the car. I've never hard metal chunks or bits come out of the oil, and it's hard to tell if the engine is actually dying, it was balanced perfectly so it runs smooth, even up to that 5000rpm on the photo, it was silk. But the low oil pressure is definitely taking a tole, I can slowly hear it. Especially when at red lights. I'm obviously just lost and a little defeated, the engine has always run very nice over it's life. It's just gotten back on the road this year after being off for 2 years.

Hi All, I'm doing a Carb to EFI conversion on my Falcon XC. Almost done, and might put the progress and everything on here for others to also dread in the horrors of EFI wiring. But for now, I'm trying to finish my fuel lines and I have an original XF EFI fuel rail, would anyone know what fitting type would be used for these? Measuring the threads gave me a metric 1.5mm but I could be wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, HK

Hey allll, Sorry for the lack of updates or responses, had business work, uni exams and went to Japan for a couple of weeks. ANYWAYYY, so much has happened I will for sure update you all on everything that happened and is happening. But be assured the car is safe and better than ever. I will upload pics and update you all in the coming days. Hey bear351c, Really sorry for such poor response, I appreciate the help and advice and took it on, found out the compression is around low 10's high 9's, so not too bad, nothing crazy, just a street and occasional track motor. But like I said, thankyou for the advice, helped a lot, and couple of youtube videos and online calculators later I got some results. Hey there ando76, Same goes to you, really sorry about poor response, but I did take your advice as well, found a couple of online calculators, hardest part was trying to figure out gasket size and all those little annoying measurements. I understand what you mean about that gain with the MSD Programmable box and TFI dizzy ignition, once you put some advance and get a graph, does a world of good to the car. Was running stock motor, with few bolt on upgrades and a balance, and even with advance and a proper ignition and big spark, I was closely keeping up with your everyday p-platers and family cars. But now that the engine has all changed I need to start from the beginning. I have a few questions. And anyone is more then welcome to respond. What would your cranking timing be??? I want to get her to a number where she will fire straight away with a single pump, and fire really well now in winter when its cold. Would I want more advance in the cold or less??? Second questions. What would your recommended idle and initil timing be??? Do I start her low like between 10-15 degrees, and build the timing up quickly, or do I start her high, around 15-20degrees and graduate the timing with rpm. The specs of the motor are: - 350 Holley - Extractors 2 1/4 inch exhaust/ straight pipe - Balanced motor internal and external - Ported head - Crow 14776 204INT 214EXT - Electric Fuel Pump - Electric Fan - Auto - 3.45 diff gears Because she is balanced, she really likes to revv, once she gets going, you are already going to change to next gear. Final question, what would your total timing be??? 32 degrees??? and when should I hit total timing, if crows spec sheet says the cams range is 1500-4500rpm All the info will be much help Hey there PRO250, Last person, I'm sorry for not responding, especially with that generous offer, unfortunately I won't be needing the head. BUTTTT, fortunately, I found out my head already has larger valves, so fantastic new there, I didn't do them, so they must of been done in the past, which is just an awesome surprise to find. I got some port work done and what not, but I will eventually change to alloy, its lighter, got a better design, and alround nicer. Not that I have a problem with the IRON, if you get work done they are a really good head, but no harm in losing a couple kgs, the iron weighs a TONEEEE.