SPArKy_Dave

I'd be keen to see if the Daewha fuel pump diaphragm's are same as factory. If so, they may be available direct from Korea?

Only if you want to retain the factory original Kirby Bishop fuel pump. In my experience, the Goss aftermarket pumps are trouble. If you have an original fuel pump on there, I would always suggest to rebuild it (same for Alternator, starter etc). If the original one isn't there, then yeah, the Fuel Miser pumps are a direct copy (made in Korea, by Daewha Fuel pumps ltd), of the original Kirby pumps, https://daewha.en.ec21.com/ For anyone with a Goss pump, going back to factory (or fuel miser), you'll need to source an inverted flare fitting, for the carby hard-line. (I believe they're tapered 1/8 NPT, to 5/16 inverted flare) Goss pumps have the flare fitting in-built. Factory and fuel miser pumps have a separate brass fitting.

Fascinating, seeing how Forged piston's get made!

Found a cool video, that show's the importance of checking valve spring heights, and what can make them vary. Well worth watching...

From memory that exact type of vibration, is often caused by an out of balance torque converter. I'd try another torque converter, tbh. Another possibility, is a mismatched crankshaft harmonic balancer - can occur if the original flywheel, crankshaft and front balancer, were originally balanced as a matching set.

It's an EA/EB wagon diff. 91DA part number... 3.27:1 is the standard wagon (and ute/van) ratio.

One of the belt pulleys - tensioner/idler etc. The noise is too high frequency to be internal, IMO. Take the serpentine belt off, then run the engine (for a short while only), and that'll soon narrow it down.

How far do you go with mods?

Yes, the ECT sensor is for ECU and dash cluster combined. Whatever the dash shows, is what the ECU see's. IAT, yes probably. Stumble, sounds very much like O2 or sticky Injectors. A new (oem NTK from Bursons) O2 sensor in my EF wagon, got me an improvement from 18-19L/100, down to 14-15 around town. For $60, it's probably the first thing I would try, along with checking the operating coolant temp - should hover around 90-95 degreesC

The transmission shouldn't cause that. I'd go looking at input sensors first - O2, ECT, IAT, MAP, etc. Start with (a new) O2, then see if it gets up to proper operating temp. ECT - put the odometer into diagnostic mode, and pull up the digital Engine Coolant Temp readout. MAP you need an oscilloscope to measure properly. IAT, can be done with a resistance measurement, relative to ambient temperature. Could also be sticky fuel injectors. May be worth getting them flowed/ultrasonically cleaned?

I have a few which do that. I've been told, it's a sticking one way clutch (ie, a mechanical issue). OR a worn out C4 clutch pack. I've never had one apart, to actually see though. My BF wagon was doing it too, but only sometimes.

Selling the Escort?

That's shocking... which brand were they?

Warning - Dayco do an identical looking thermostat for much cheaper. The current Dayco ones are apparently close, but still no good - the bypass foot/plunger, being too short. Dayco DT66A's, USED to be re-boxed made in USA, Robert Shaw 333-180's. (the T-Meyer ones are the USA made, Robert Shaw thermostats) Dayco thermostats, now come out of China unfortunately, I believe. I can't comment on the Tridon brand Cleveland ones, but the last few Tridon ones I bought for the Crossflow six, were re-boxed Moto-Rad brand - made in India from memory. I had to return some of the Tridon ones too, as when I tested them in a pot of boiling water on the stove, I found some would open crooked, and/or stick. Due to the amount of crap quality around, I always test thermostats on the stove, nowadays.