SPArKy_Dave

The following is a list of settings that can be altered, to suit personal preference - Personalisation Settings: Taxi Mode: Disabled: Means car is in normal mode. Door locks operate in a standard manner either 2 stage unlock or 1 stage unlock. Enabled: Car is in taxi mode. Remote key operates in a normal manner,but operation of central door lock(CDL) switch on the ICC is different. If any door is unlocked when the ICC CDL button is pressed the passenger doors will unlock (drivers door will remain locked) Panic Alarm Inhibit: Disabled: Allows operation of hazards,horn warning and courtesy lamps as a result of pressing of panic alarm button on remote key pad. Enabled: Disables operation of panic alarm. If this bit is set and panic alarm button is pressed on remote key pad nothing will happen. Door Trigger Disable Mode: Disabled: Means dome lamp operation will be triggered by opening and closing of doors. Enabled: Opening and closing the doors will not effect state of dome lamps ie.Opening a door will not turn on dome lamps, and closing a door will not turn off dome lamps. Also key out/dome on function will not operate. There is still control of dome lamps by operation of the ICC button, and operation of remote key. This bit can be set and reset by either using the WDS or alternatively pressing and holding the dome lamp button on for 5 seconds. Master Door Trigger Disable Mode: Disabled: Allows door trigger disable mode to be invoked by pressing and holding of ICC CDL switch. Enabled: Does not allow door trigger disable mode to be turned on or off by pressing and holding ICC CDL switch. Hazard Warning Inhibit: Disabled: BEM will operate the hazard lamps when any remote key is pressed and for key in lock warning. Ie unlock,panic,lock,remote boot release. Enabled: BEM will not operate the hazard lamps if any of the remote key buttons are pressed. Horn Warning Inhibit: Disabled: BEM will operate the horn in the event that the remote lock button is pressed twice within 3 seconds, or if the remote lock button is pressed when a transponder is still in the ignition. Enabled: BEM will not operate the horn under conditions described above. Battery Saver Inhibit: Disabled: Enables battery saver supply to operate as per normal operation. Enabled: Disables battery saver control by BEM when ignition is off. Remote key operation will not activate courtesy lamps. Door opening and closing will not activate dome lamps with ignition off bacause battery saver is not active when ignition is off. Battery saver will still be active when ignition is in the Accessories or Ignition on positions. Courtesy Lamp Inhibit: Disabled: Enables courtesy lamp output driver, such that courtesy lamps operate as per normal operation. Enabled: Disables courtesy lamp output driver. Courtesy lamps will never operate.

Did you unbolt the steering column, to remove the cluster? To me, it's all voltage and/or earth related Focus on the ignition switch Does it have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser?

From memory, that's been for sale for a few yrs now Earlier factory NON aircon XF's, didn't get the deflectors, or that rubber strip plus smaller radiator, and top metal fan shroud I think later on, all XF's got the side deflector plastics and bigger radiator, but still no rubber strip. (aka, my 92' XF ute for ref, which has aftermarket aircon) I see replacement door rubber seals fitted, non original spark plug leads, bonnet strut fitted upside down, wrong battery cables, along with painted over windscreen wiper bolt heads, and painted over spring clamps for the windscreen washer jet hose.

Is it maybe a really high rpm stall converter? Lack of 3rd, could be a sticking actuator in the valve body, or a sticking governor in the extension housing. Can you monitor line pressures, whilst driving it?

I'd check for bent conrods, using a straw, plastic stick or similar, down the spark plug holes.

Shims usually live behind the upper arm front mount I thought, used to increase caster, by pushing the top pivot point back? The upper arm clamp, should self center on the ball joint recess, when fully tightened? And yeah, lower ball joint wear caused excess toe/camber on my BF. It had been previously aligned to compensate, but when I fitted new ball joints, I didn't think to re-adjust. Note - After not adjusting the alignment, it wore the front tyres, within around 15,000km's. When later fitting new tyres, I located whiteout marks for the factory toe settings, and set to those points. Further confirmed, with a DIY string/tape measure arrangement.

That's it yes! The loose threaded bracket, sits against the tyre, with the threaded end in the slotted hole of that welded bracket. The wingnut winds on the thread upside down, so it tightens backwards against the outside of that welded bracket, thus pushing the loose threaded bracket, against the tyre.

Can confirm, as I own an October 86' F250 302W, with factory flat tappet cam block, and v-belts. Not sure on the balance spec's though.

It threads onto a removable threaded bracket, that wedges against the tyre. The wing nut threads onto the bracket in reverse, and is then tightened down against an opposing bracket, welded inside the wheel carrier - on the RHS. XR-XG utes/vans all use the same bracket/nut.

Does the compression sound even, when cranking (even slowly?) Does it crank faster, with the spark plugs out? The starter could be shorting internally, due to to water ingress? I'd try measuring the current draw, if you have a clamp style ammeter.

How did that happen - a flooded road? Yeah, water doesn't compress, although I wouldn't have thought bent conrods, would make the engine run poorly? An inspection camera down each bore, could be helpful maybe? A leakdown test, would show any bent valves. Plus as @deankxf says, measuring each cylinder stroke with a plastic stick or similar, would be useful! Did you replace the oil too - I imagine that would be full of water also?

Not sure? If it's for the 3 wire one, maybe it just runs at full output, without any control?

So long as it's a two wire alternator, not the later 3 wire one (refer patch harness pic with missing center pin) Later BA/BF 3 wire alternators, are duty cycle controlled by the PCM. Me personally, I'd avoid everything and just fix the XG engine (new composite head gasket, with ARP head studs) Even AU head on XG seems easier possibly? (needs block machined to correct RA finish, to seal AU spec MLS head gasket)