SPArKy_Dave

E-series doors tend to stick, if not opened regularly. In my experience, it's the rubber seals which cause the problem. If you apply some rubber rejuvenator/vinyl protectant, it should improve or prevent sticking. I don't know of anyone making wiper arm bushes for e-series... not yet anyways. Maybe try finding a good one off another vehicle, or get replacement bushes 3D printed - if that's even possible?

Found a safe DIY method, for basic leak testing of Injectors - Connect compressed air, set at normal fuel pump supply pressure (often 40-60 psi) Leave for a few hrs, and results should show.

Not exactly a falcon, but these had basically the same transmission... For entertainment purposes mainly. Transmission Service and Adjustment tutorial, starts at the 34.00 mark.

If memory serves... any red wire with green stripe (near the carby), is for the choke coil and fuel cut-off solenoid switch. (edit - circular plug for choke coil, and spade terminal for fuel cut solenoid)

EST = XF unleaded Carby TFI = XF EFI (all) Vac advance = XF leaded Carby Different vac advance dizzy - XE Carby and EFI I have a bosch ignition catalogue, which shows the different part numbers, across the years.

You'll need to run a main cap brace, or the block will often develop cracks. AFR185 cylinder heads are proven, and an intake/carb/injection setup to suit the intended use (rev range etc) of the engine. The go-to cam, was the Ford Motorsport E303 cam, but I believe there are better/more modern aftermarket profiles available now?

https://www.autosurplus.com.au/ford-escort-cortina-1100-1300-1600-adjustable-roll

something sure is... removing the rocker cover was the next step, but ran out of time. The theory is, the cam/crank relationship, is out of sync. I reckoned the cam was advanced, Aaron reckons it's most likely retarded a tooth or two. I'm unfamiliar with Escort engines, and have no idea how many teeth the cam/crank cogs have, to even begin to estimate how many degree's per tooth. It was late, and I was too tired to think straight... even drawing a diagram, didn't really help.

ECU Coolant temp sensor, (two wire blue plug) needs to be connected to a functional sensor, or the ECU will pull back the timing, increase injector duty cycle and make the engine run rich, among other things. No spark, can only be a few things - Hall Effect (pip) sensor, TFI module or coil.

I thought stock push rods were the safety net, against over-revving a crossflow?

I'd be keen to see if the Daewha fuel pump diaphragm's are same as factory. If so, they may be available direct from Korea?

Only if you want to retain the factory original Kirby Bishop fuel pump. In my experience, the Goss aftermarket pumps are trouble. If you have an original fuel pump on there, I would always suggest to rebuild it (same for Alternator, starter etc). If the original one isn't there, then yeah, the Fuel Miser pumps are a direct copy (made in Korea, by Daewha Fuel pumps ltd), of the original Kirby pumps, https://daewha.en.ec21.com/ For anyone with a Goss pump, going back to factory (or fuel miser), you'll need to source an inverted flare fitting, for the carby hard-line. (I believe they're tapered 1/8 NPT, to 5/16 inverted flare) Goss pumps have the flare fitting in-built. Factory and fuel miser pumps have a separate brass fitting.

Fascinating, seeing how Forged piston's get made!

Found a cool video, that show's the importance of checking valve spring heights, and what can make them vary. Well worth watching...