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SPArKy_Dave

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SPArKy_Dave last won the day on February 2

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About SPArKy_Dave

  • Rank
    ...what would Dave do?
  • Birthday 03/09/1902

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  • Location
    melbz eastside
  • Interests
    I like wagons :)..... and this new forum.

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  1. SPArKy_Dave

    Stuck/Sticking Thermostat?

    Looks like the factory stat, had a bleed notch on the inner moveable section? I've never looked closely at that part, tbh. I've got a Nissan XFN factory workshop manual, and it shows that same notch. My blue XE wagon, had an aftermarket e-series thermostat in it for some reason? (with the extra bypass spring foot thingy and a bleed hole manually drilled in it) I only found out, as it wasn't getting up to temp. When I investigated, I found the thermostat was stuck open, with what looks like a tiny piece of casting metal/slag from the block. After going through a couple of dud Tridon thermostats (sticking when opening, opening early/late, etc), I decided to buy a Windsor V8 Motorcraft stat for the XE instead, as they're the same dimensions/temp rating (except have a jiggle pin). Last time I bought Tridon ^^, they were re-boxed MotoRad stats - made in India I thought (could be wrong)...
  2. SPArKy_Dave

    Stuck/Sticking Thermostat?

    The little plastic/brass thingy, is called a jiggle pin. I believe it's to help break up any large air bubbles, when bleeding the coolant system. To my knowledge, the factory crossflow thermostats didn't run a hole or jiggle pin. The top thermostat housing bolt with the center bleeder screw, provided that function. Factory fitted e-series 6cyl thermostats were 92c, made in UK by Waxstat, and had a jiggle pin. The current e-series 'genuine' thermostats, are 91c, and don't have a jiggle pin nor hole - bad idea IMO, as they don't have a bleeder screw. The factory e-series V8 thermostats (Motorcraft, made in USA etc) are rated at 89c and have a jiggle pin, as they don't have a bleeder screw in the cooling system either.
  3. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I really don't know what a sorted 383ci combo is capable of tbh, but I'd assume circa 450hp? IMO, it needs to be a torque monster, rather than an RPM queen. I'm not sure yet, if the manifold is single or dual plane. From what I can gather, the engine was built about 12yrs prior - from a couple of owners ago... Nick tried to get build info when he bought it 4yrs back, but the previous owner knew nothing, nor had the details of the owner before that. My next task, is to suss out the cam... it sounds cammed, but again - no info. I pulled a rocker cover off last weekend, and it has standard rocker gear, but appears to have better than stock springs - spring/damper. The compression does have me slightly concerned... at idle, it fumes out the oil cap, like a mini steam-train. Nick had a catch can fitted by his normal mechanic - which is open to atmosphere, with a hose going to each rocker cover. (no PCV, and second hose in place of oil cap) His mechanic recently gave up on the vehicle, suggesting he find a Ford guru, and saying they're only good with newer vehicles. My name got suggested somewhere through the grape-vine, and here we are. I went over the whole vehicle last weekend, and honestly it's a basket case... Steering and suspension issues, leaking brake master cyl, worn front hub bearings, the engine issues and more. A succession of poor quality parts, dodgy workmanship plus normal wear and tear. Being a 4x4 F-truck, its still worth repairing, IMO.
  4. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    @CHESTNUTXE, I'm at the beginning of resurrecting a Cleveland in an F-truck, which is running poorly. you may be able to offer some advice? Nick the owner (a family friend) knows nothing about the build. It's in a late 70's F150 4x4, with 4 spd manual F-truck gearbox/transfer case. The engine runs straight LPG, with twin Impco 225 gas converters, on a high rise AFR intake manifold. I can't find any info, on the intake manifold though? The exhaust comprises of Genie 4-2-1 Stainless Steel extractors, 2.5inch collectors, no cross-over pipe, and one chambered muffler on each pipe, with short downturns under the tray, prior to the rear diff. Last weekend, I did a compression test, and measured the piston stroke It's a 3.750 stroke. The dry compression varies wildly, from 180, down to 150psi, and jumps to 250-ish PSI, wet. It has a Scorcher distributor in it, (timing unknown atm, but vac advance is blocked off) Spark plugs are NGK BP5FS's. It's very down on power, IMO - feels like mid 250-ish hp, if not less. Suggestions? Reckon I should start a separate thread?
  5. SPArKy_Dave

    Cleveland block

    2K5 = 5/10/72 (or 82) casting date code.
  6. happy birthday dave

  7. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    There must be a mob over there who make the stickers - like our Grafix Unlimited? If you found out who it is, maybe they could add your one, to their catalogue?
  8. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Date code on the distributor - 1E24 = 24/05/71
  9. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Engine block date-code 1M18 = 18/12/71
  10. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    1E13 = date code = 13/05/71
  11. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Ford Emissions decals? - http://perogie.com/perogie_117.htm
  12. SPArKy_Dave

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    The Bosch Alternator date-code (923) = March 1979 Like the engine block etc, the water pump should have a date-code, near the CF logo - a number/letter/number, for year/month/day - ie, 9C09 = 09/03/79, and so-on. A = Jan B = Feb... the letter I, is not used - being too similar to a 1. L = Nov M = Dec The cast iron intake and exhaust manifolds, should have a date-code on them too, same configuration as the engine block and water pump.
  13. Any more pics of the pitman arm reco? Btw, I like the offset bench vice! very cool.
  14. This list may be helpful for some, to achieve an accurate Speedometer, vs chosen diff ratio and wheel/tyre size. Diff ---- Trans -- Rim -- Drive Gear --- Teeth -- Color --- Driven Gear -- Teeth -- Color 3.23 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.23 -- Manual -- All -- XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.08 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-C -- 20 LH -- Brown 3.27 -- Manual -- All -- XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.27 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.45 -- Manual -- 15" - XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-E -- 22 LH -- Grey 3.45 -- 4 Auto --- 15" - XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-E -- 22 LH -- Grey 3.45 -- Manual -- 16" - XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-F -- 23 LH -- Black 3.45 -- 4 Auto --- 16" - XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-F -- 23 LH -- Black 2.77 - Auto/Man - All ------------------------ 8LH - Yellow ----- XE-17271A - 19LH --- Purple 2.92 - Auto/Man - All ------------------------ 8LH - Yellow ----- XE-17271B - 19LH --- Pink http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=30 Purple 19 XE17271A Pink 19 XE17271B Brown 20 XE17271C Light Green 21 XE17271D Grey 22 XE17271E Black 23 XE17271F
  15. SPArKy_Dave

    Decoding your F-truck VIN/Chassis no.

    The VIN on the engine or car will be 6 characters long, for example, JG63UM or AL1JYM. These are decoded as follows; First character = Product source. A = USA, C = UK, J = Australia and S and U = Japan. Second character = Assembly plant. G = Broadmeadows - (Passenger), L = Broadmeadows – (Truck), H = Brisbane and K = Sydney 3rd & 4th characters = Body Series See below 5th & 6th characters = year and month of production respectively Therefore; A = USA source L = Assembled at Broadmeadows Truck plant 1J = F100 4x2 Y = 1981 M = March F-Series Body Codes 1J = F100 4x2 4K = F100 4x4 1T = F100 Bronco 2J = F250 3J = F350 5K = F350 4x4 4J = F500 6J = F600 1K = F700 2K = F750 3K = F800 and F8000 Now onto the engines. The engine codes for the F series trucks are unique and not linked to the passenger vehicles and are also relevant to the years of manufacture. Therefore, for the following years, the codes apply as follows; 1970 Engine D = 4.0 litre (240 CID petrol 6 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) T = 5.4 litre (330 CID petrol 8 cylinder) Transmission 4 = 4 speed 5 = 5 speed 1971 Same as above except for; Transmission 3 = 3 speed column shift B = 3 speed floor shift automatic 1972 Same as above 1973 Engine D = 4.0 litre (240 CID petrol 6 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Transmission 4 = 4 speed B = 3 speed floor shift automatic 1974 (US Drive line) Engine L = 4.0 litre (240 CID petrol 6 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift B = 3 speed floor shift automatic 1974 (Local Drive line) Engine L = 4.0 litre (250 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Y = 4.9 litre (302 CID petrol 8 cylinder) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed automatic 1975 Same as above except for; Engine E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) 1976 Engine L = 4.0 litre (250 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Y = 4.9 litre (302 CID petrol 8 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed automatic 1977 Same as above except for the 300 CID engine is no longer available 1978 Engine B = 5.8 litre (Pre-ADR 36) C = 5.8 litre (Post ADR 36) Y = 4.9 litre (2 wheel drive only) X = 4.9 litre (4 wheel drive only) L = 4.1 litre (Pre-ADR 36) H = 4.1 litre (Post ADR 36) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed Cruisomatic column shift 1979 & 1980 Same as above 1981 and onwards Engine W = 4.1 litre 6 cylinder C = 5.8 litre 8 cylinder (carburetor version) T = 5.0 litre (fuel injected) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed Cruisomatic column shift Now back to the model code. I will start with the easy ones first being the 1978 to 1981 F series trucks. As shown above, the ute in question had a model code of 62112 and it is this number that can be used in conjunction with the following code breaker to find out what you have. Model Digits 1 & 2 = Product line (more on this later!) Digit 3 = Year of manufacture (actually applies to all F series trucks) Digit 4 = Body style 1 – F100 Chassis Cab 2 – F100/250 Style Side Body 3 – F100 Ambulance and F350 Chassis cab Digit 5 = Series 1 – F100 Short Wheel Base 2 – F100 Long Wheel Base of F250 3 – F350 Short Wheel Base 4 – F350 Long Wheel Base So from the above model code of 62112, this equates to; F100 S-Cab, 1981 build year, F100 Chassis Cab, F100 Long Wheel Base of F250. Now onto the pre 1978 model codes. According to the book, there are heaps of model codes, especially so for the years of 1970 through to 1972 as the codes covered the F100 all the way up to the F700. Therefore, I am only going to cover a year that is more applicable, namely 1976. 62611 – F100A C.Cab 2972 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62612 – F100A S.Cab 3379 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62621 – F100A S.Box 2972 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62622 – F100A S.Box 3379 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62632 – F100A Ambulance 3379 mm W/B 2717 kg GVM 74611 – F250A 2WD C.Cab 3379 mm W/B 3448 kg GVM 74612 – F250A 2WD S.Box 3379 mm W/B 3448 kg GVM 73613 – F250A 4WD C.Cab 3379 mm W/B 3493 kg GVM 73614 – F250A 4WD S.Box 3379 mm W/B 3493 kg GVM 74631 – F350A C.Cab 3480 mm W/B 4536 kg GVM 74632 – F350A C.Cab 4089 mm W/B 4536 kg GVM As you can see, the two first numbers (Product Line) change according to the type of vehicle required. (info, courtesy of 'Paull', from Ford Australia Forums)
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