SPArKy_Dave

Ignore the 'MotoRad' wording... that's just the brand name of thermostat, which Tridon re-box's from India. The spring part, goes into the cyl head. The dome shape, faces the radiator as-per @deankxf's helpful picture. What I would recommend though, is test the new thermostat in a pot of boiling water first, using a thermometer to check it opens/closes correctly. I never quite trust aftermarket parts these days - especially suspension components (see @deankxf).

@Crebe, the engine/gearbox should be angled downhill to the rear of the vehicle, by around 3 degrees. Check the angle, with a carpenters degree wheel from Bunnings.

Aussie PBR or Chinese Protex... the master cyl fluid pressure/volume ratio's need to be correct, or they won't provide correct application at the wheels. Drum rear vs Disc rear master cylinders have different internal ratio's. When working correctly, XF brakes (incl drum rears) will almost stand the car on it's nose. I've experienced both good AND bad XF brakes back to back.

There are tubular upper arms available I think, which give a Shelby drop, without drilling new holes.

Wow, what a pain! I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans. I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant, but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts, and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.

Tough part is, those tan interiors (an EA colour) were only used in 88-90 XF commercials. As most commercials had a hard life, there's not many good parts around anymore. It took me almost 2yrs, to locate a non-cracked tan dash pad for my XF SVO project ute, costing around $300 from memory!

Big difference between the old (transgold?) and new (Pioneer?) mounts! Do u still have a factory Ford mount, to compare metal thickness?

Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container. Ship to Australia. Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup? To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care... Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO. (case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components)

Choices seem to be the following - Mackay - A1140 Kelpro - MT8095 Pioneer - 602257 Transgold - MNT836 I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.

Those new mounts look pretty bad, in comparison to ur originals. The angle of the upper tabs, is way different! What brand are they? ie - Mackay, Kelpro etc

The top pressed metal part of those engine mounts, looks a bit thin tbh. Do you have any original mounts to compare with?

The USA Mustang saddles had rubber pads from factory I think. It's a thing for some recent aftermarket spring saddles - suppliers source Chinese repro mustang parts probably?

Can u post a picture of the spring, and height that the vehicle is sitting at? Also the bump-stop clearance. That will let us help u more.

TTS010, is XD/XE Cleveland - (XD/XE gauges use lower resistance senders) U need to run an XF temp sender, for the XF dash cluster I think around 60ohms, = mid-way on XF temp gauges, and 35ohms = Max/Hot Tridon TTS037 should be the one u need. (thread/post terminal) OR VDO 320.093 (OEM) OR FuelMiser CTS144 Undo the thread adaptor from ur old sensor, and re-use it (Crossflow 1/8 - 27NPT to Cleveland 3/8 - 18NPT)

https://mooregoodink.com/minimizing-spark-scatter-in-the-vintage-race-engine/