SPArKy_Dave

What about Factory Silver 14x6 S-pack wheels, with the factory center caps? or prostars... they work too.

Welcome to our Club, mate! Are you thinking of getting another XF, or an earlier model?

Nekminit... $10k quarter panel.

lets not forget a certain Dustpan...

The initial adjustment is done at each rotor, till you hear a very light amount of dragging. Then final adjustment (if needed) is done at the central point under the vehicle, where the horseshoe bracket and lever is. If both adjustments are maxed out, then you'll prolly need a new main cable. (stretched)

That wagon has always been registered. My busiest time for work, is from September till March.

A time clock issue possibly? - USA, vs Australia?

Being mis-lead is the worst. Not only are you driving yourself into the ground on false pretenses... all whilst trying to achieve the impossible, but you're alienating your existing customer base, at the same time! It's a no-win situation, and yeah - saying no is probably for the best, for your personal well-being, for the business reputation, and for the customer's end result. A crap finish would get talked about forever more, but an extra 3mths will soon be forgotten.

Maybe just put new bearings in the diff... $100 in materials, and a day or so labour? They do sound a bit dry, the bearings - maybe there's no oil in it?

50yrs ago yesterday, on October 17th 1968 - Bullitt was first released in theaters...

@CRU571XR8, I noticed you changed the front springs from Red to Yellow, over the build pics you posted. What suspension's in it, now? Fresh Monza Red, is such a nice colour!

I have all the tools to do automotive Aircon. You can purchase the barrier hose, hardline and crimp fittings individually - to fabricate custom lines. It's all fairly easy, once you know how. (like anything I guess) Have a look on the Cooldrive Distribution website. I have an account with them, plus most of their catalogues. The crimping tool, is the only thing I don't have... yet. They're about $500ish to buy.

@jca4 is our resident guru, for info on x-series brake booster rebuilds. He has a write-up somewhere on the forum. Hopefully he see's this, and comes to the rescue!

The x-series wiper motors are/were made by the same people as CPC radiator caps/fuel caps. The whole wiper mechanism assemblies, were made by Trico. I believe they have an over-temp/over current cutout in the motor. If the grease in the wiper pivots/arms and such has dried out, and you don't run a hydrophobic coating (wax, quick detailer spray, rainex or similar) on the windscreen itself, the wipers get slower and slower from the increased drag. This increased drag, overheats the motor causing it to cut out. The above issue is totally different to the nylon cups on the end of the pivot arms wearing. That wear, usually causes the outer arm to drop off the rotating ball at the motor. The only fix for worn nylon cups, is a replacement arm. (RareSpares make reproduction x-series wiper pivot arms). Hot tip - before removing the wiper mech assembly from the plenum chamber, stop the wipers in their straight up and down position. (effectively 180 degrees rotation of the motor) This puts the pivot arms in the best spot, for easy removal of the wiper assembly from the plenum.

First thing to find out - is the ghia front, factory fitted or not. It looks like it's an S-pack - going by the rear tail light trim. And the interior too. However that interior trim by itself, was an option on standard Falcons. Call 13FORD, and get the build spec sheet. The selling dealer, will be a clue - it could've been originally sold/registered interstate? Also look for the assembly line build sheet - under the carpet, dash or rear seat, etc. Highway patrol interceptor vehicles had the Ghia front as factory. But were also V8, and GL spec interiors. If it's matching numbers turbo'd - contact Mike Vine, and see if it's one of his turbo kits?