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Panko last won the day on April 13 2017

Panko had the most liked content!

About Panko

  • Rank
    Events Organiser Extrordinaire
  • Birthday 06/06/1990

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  • Location
    S/E Melbourne
  • Interests
    Cars, bikes, boats, girls, music, photography

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  1. Spent pretty much all day working on the car today, and got a few of the annoying little jobs done. I put this image together to help explain the damage at the back. its rough, but should make it easier to see where it needs fixing still. mounted the wiper motor and regulator back in for good, with fancy new bolts. (i have ordered the correct re-production bolts which i will fit when they arrive) C pillar trims fitted for good D pillar trims fitted for good and this arrived today in the mail. NOS genuine fairmont badge
  2. Haha im glad someone picked up on that, very deliberate sexual connotation 😆 lots of grease, nice and slippery 😋
  3. i wish I had thought of that. yes it probably would've assisted, even with the grease it was still such a sketchy feeling working them onto the balls
  4. Take 2. wiper regulator now sorted and ready to go back into the car, after i do a bit of a clean up and rust protection inside the plenum. Thanks to @BigCav for sorting it out with Alex at Rare Spares Bayswater test fitting the driver's guard to check panel gaps after i re-gapped all the doors. Im pretty happy with fitment. It feels awesome to see a front guard on the car, but unfortunately its still so far away from a point where I can hang the guards permanently
  5. I started spending my tax return, aka car parts fund, today. New wiper linkages, new outer rear door belts to go with the new front ones i replaced not long ago, and a NOS tailgate latch. the day started well, until a bit of a miss hap with the wiper linkages. Brand new and it broke but thanks to BigCav, he is helping me out with getting them changed over tomorrow. driver's side rear door belt fitted, and trim fitted. this door is now finished. no more pulling it apart hopefully if the new wiper linkages go well tomorrow, ill have the wiper regulator back in the car tomorrow for good then if i have time ill start ripping the wiring out of the passenger door to start hunting for the broken wire(s) stopping my central locking and light up lock barrel from working
  6. The car has migrated to the back shed, to live with dad's 1953 S1 Land Rover 80" SWB.
  7. Yeah i know what you mean chris, yes they do have that feature to lock power to the passenger windows. I suspect its that switch on the driver’s door controls thats playing up. Because if they all work from there, it suggests power is not getting beyond that “power on/off” switch. The passenger front loom has to come apart because it has a broken wire for the central locking in that door
  8. Hi Guys, just putting this post up because I am having issues with my XF power windows. The issue is they all work from the driver's door master control switches, but none of the 3 passenger (FL, RL, RR) work via their own switches. I am thinking it will be to do with the "Power on/off" switch that cuts power to the passenger door switches. Im hoping it is just it being faulty, but I am asking if anyone else has had a similar issue, and what it was to fix it? Keep in mind, im in the middle of restoring the car. so the interior is pretty bare, although the majority of the electrical systems inside the car are in place.
  9. The last couple of days, very little progress has happened, but a lot of swearing and frustration has definitely happened. I have come across more electrical issues, and its doing my bloody head in. Ive found another broken wire in the passenger front door loom, which shits me because dad and i spent days repairing what we knew was broken in the door loom before it went to the panel shop, only to now realise i have a broken wire that triggers the central locking solenoid. so the door looms needs to be removed again, stripped back and find and repair the break. massive step backwards I also have an issue with the electric windows. All the windows work from the driver's door switch panel, but none of the passenger doors work from their own window switches. WTF! On a positive note, I have working mirrors, the driver's door light up lock barrel works and stays on with the interior lights/time delay as its supposed to. the passenger side does not work, which appears to be another broken wire in the loom for that too Driver's door however works fine. everything is working as it should, so that makes me happy i was doing some fault finding today, so had everything electrical i could think of that was removed from the car (other than lights) just plugged in and operational to see that i was getting good earths, and to try see if shit was interlinked with power or earth with the stuff thats giving me issues. was nice to see the radio up and running, although its still cutting out randomly, so it still needs to go off for repairs.
  10. it is just the front edge. the spare wheel side seems to be straight. its an open cavity in there so they have managed to fix one side but not the other
  11. Yeah we tried. There is a 4-5mm thick washer that goes between the bolt head and the latch, we tried putting the washers between the latch and the body, and still no good. Plus the bolts would have to be looooong. Where i measured it being 11-12mm in still, still isnt the peak of where its pressed in. Id guess it’d 15+mm forward by the time you got the centre point of where its pushed in. I raised the issue with the panel shop, and they sound more than happy to sort it out. There should be no cost to me, because it sounds like they’ve realised they stuffed up.
  12. Today I had a bit of a working bee on the car. got a few more of the little fiddly things happening. Even had dad helping me. as long as we are doing our own things, we dont argue, so I got him to work on the tail gate... first job for today was to shuffle the doors backwards on the car a little, because the tops of the front doors were just too close to the A pillar trims. I got these little rubber wedges from Clarke Rubber. worked a treat After adjusting the doors to a point I was happy, it was time to continue putting the front doors back together. So the mirrors went on, the passenger front door finally got all its chrome trims fitted, the A pillar trims back on... And I have to say I am blown away with how good the mirrors look finished and on the car Now for the bad news... I mentioned I had dad working on the tail gate, trying to get it to lock. something didnt seam right, because even with a bit of force we couldnt get the latch to catch and lock. we ran a straight edge across the rear panel where the latch bolts to, and sure enough, that section is still pushed in from the accident. The guys straightened and repaired the boot floor and fuel tank area, but the next step down where the boot latch is mounted, they did not straighten. Understandably because they didnt swap the locks over themselves from the old to the new tailgate, they would never have discovered that it was never going to work. BUT, would you think the panel shop would check every mm of the car in the impact area to be sure it was straight? So, its a pretty big setback. the car will need to go back to the panel shop to have them sort it out. I am totally gutted, because I was starting to make some real progress on the car
  13. I totally agree, and i think in the long run that is the path ill go down. it is cheap easy power, and id even be willing to stick the 1300 rocker cover on to disguise it (different length oil filler tubes) but for now, ill put up with it.
  14. being electronic ignition points gaps etc dont exist lol. vac advance does though. I know for sure the 1600 would be a mad upgrade, but in roundabout terms dropping a 1600 in also means changing the diff, thats why i want the 1600 torque etc. dropping a 5 speed in would drop the rpm down to 3370rpm at 100km/h with the 4.11 diff. that is fkn mint! or if i drop a 3.77 diff in it would drop to 3770rpm at 100km/h, which would also be bearable, but not viable behind the 1300cc engine and 4 speed. either way, nothing will happen in that regard for a while yet. wheels, carby and driver's seat first.
  15. well in "Sport" mode they will do 65km/h. sport mode also turns off all the safety mechanisms, ie the sensors etc. I often see damaged mavics for sale and wonder how, because these are so dam safe, with the sonar sensors etc etc, then i realise the dumbass has probably been flying it in Sport mode and lost control of it. OK onto car related stuff again (epic post coming) I spent today chasing Minis again, up around the Yarra Ranges. "Parmarama" (spirited drive to Alexandra pub for parmas) anyway, I think ive discovered a bit of an issue with the engine. I have no idea what it is yet, but I am going to be changing the carby soon anyway, so thats a good start. so what is the issue? I did a bit of a spirited overtaking manoeuvre to get in front of a line of 3 old farts from the VicMini club , so 80km/h, dropped it back to 3rd gear, and let it rip. full throttle, pushed it out to over 100km/h in 3rd, at around 6000rpm, dropped it into top gear and pushed it out to around 120km/h to get clear of all 3 cars. It felt great, engine was on song, it was happy. Later in the day, i went to do something similar, but this time leaving it in 4th, and it felt very underpowered and just not willing to get going, which at 100km/h in top gear its right on the point where it comes on song (~4000rpm) so generally dont need to drop it back out of 4th at that speed to overtake. The issue is, some times it feels great, other times it feels crap. now it is a tired 1300, but its not consistent with its power/torque. At lunch stop, i popped the bonnet up, and noticed that the fuel filter between the pump and the carby, was nearly dry, with fuel only trickling in. does this mean the fuel pump isnt keeping up? I have seen it full to the brim with fuel also. I am not going to attack the fuel pump until I have got the 32/36 fitted and running. once I have that up and running, Ill know if the pump cant keep up or whatnot. I have a bit to decide after today As much as I love the 15" wheels, I am looking forward to getting them off the car. after driving the car for about 200kms today in twisty roads, its handling mint. its on rails, BUT, the low profile tyres are now doing my head in. they just dont have the give, and the car gets unsettled very easy on rougher roads. they look fantastic as a "show" wheel, or as a stance wheel, but the 13s I think are going to be much nicer on those sorts of roads. Driving it for long periods I feel something is going to have to change. the car runs the factory optioned 4.11:1 diff. So it screams on the highway, it also means it makes it easier for the car to get going. the other manual diff ratio that was available back in the day from new was a 3.9:1 diff, which would make the car that little bit nicer on the road (3900rpm @ 100km/h vs 4100 @ 100km/h (keep in mind it comes on song at 4000rpm)). But a 3.9 diff, may labour the poor 1300 off the line, although 1st is incredibly short. In the long term I am thinking a Type9 5 speed is the way to go, and keep the 1300 and 4.11 diff. the 5 speed conversion is expensive. the box is from a Sierra, worth anywhere from $1000 to $2000, but they are the only 5 speed that will fit into a manual Escort body shell with very minor body work required. OR I drop a 1600cc engine in, which will go straight in, and then drop the diff down to a 3.77 ratio. a stock 1600, with its single barrel carby and crappy cast exhaust manifold, puts out around 60kw (compared to 43kw 1300). keeping in mind my 1300 is down a long way on compression. A good stock second hand 1600, with decent compression, would be fine to drop a warmed up cam in it, fit the weber, extractors, and ive got an engine producing easily double the stock power, and would have more than enough torque to push the taller diff like a 3.77 and I could then keep the 4 speed. it will come down to the cost of an engine and diff (or centre if i can change just the centre) vs a complete 5 speed conversion to go behind a 1300. The DIFF needs work also. if im going to change the centre, i might as well as do the diff up and replace the noisy bearings and tighten it up. so whats the cost of that vs replacing the diff with lets say a Mk2 diff (mini 9" diff) or an Atlas diff thats in good condition ready to go, which has a suitable ratio centre. For now I just want to get the 13s finished and on, the 32/36 carby rebuilt and fitted and running, and replace the driver's seat. I think those 3 things will make it a much more enjoyable experience, than it currently is. IT IS STILL FANTASTIC to drive. Today was fantastic fun, and it was great to let it stretch its legs, and put some solid kms on it, i loved it, but Im already feeling it due to the broken driver's seat frame doing my back in, and the high RPM on the open roads certainly taxing after a few hours. I think the 3 main things I want/need to do in the near future will just make it that much nicer to drive for now until I decide what to do about the diff or engine or gearbox combination. *in the long term I still think a 5speed conversion is the path I want to go down, but it probably isnt worth it with the tired 1300 still in there* sorry about the epic post. Basically just spilling my thoughts onto the page