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I stumbled upon an old Brake Booster rebuild tutorial thread, over on the Ford Australia Forums, and thought it well worthy of adding to our Archives... Here's a summary of the rubber components (with pricing), used in the below rebuild - VH2013 - Reaction Disc - $6.60 VH2015 - Front Seal - $5.41 VH2588(2580?) - Main Diaphragm - $39.60 VH2579 - Main Diaphragm - $31.33 VH2029 - Rear Seal - $26.40 The complete XC/XD/XE brake booster assembly part no. is/was VH395 For further info, see the following link to another excellent rebuild tutorial we have, created by fellow OzFalcon member 'jca4'. Full credit for the following write-up, goes to Wayne (aka XC GXL on Ford Forums). _______________________________________________________________________________________________ Some of us live overseas with these beauties and when something goes wrong we either have to spend a truck load on postage (and sometimes extra TAX) or we improvise with what is available to get our cars back on the road. Well I had a brake booster failure a little while back and fortunately I had a decent spare however I looked into getting a spare sent over and the cost of a reconditioned one including postage was frightening. I was fortunate enough to meet a bloke in Wollongong before I left in the brake and clutch business as I got some bits and pieces for the XC before I left home. When the booster failed I rang him and he was kind enough to send me over all of the major parts to recondition an XC/XD/XE brake booster. Here is an exploded view showing the parts I replaced. and here are a few photos of the replacement parts I decided to try to tackle a rebuild although I have never done so before and was a little daunted by it initially like how to spilt it, replacing diaphragms etc, etc. Well I managed to overhaul 3 that I had which were knackered with success. So for all of you guys living overseas and those of you who want to overhaul your own booster this is how I did it. Firstly I made up a jig to enable me to split the booster as the top section needs to be twisted from the lower section and can take a bit of force. The jig looks a little Heath Robinson but it worked a treat for me. Once the top is split the M20 rod, which incidentally is 500mm long with a 13mm hole 70mm deep drilled into each end to enable the plate to not foul with the Rod and Valve Assy (Part no 2377), is wound back to enable the spring to be detensioned safely. This part is really necessary during reassembly as trying to hold the spring down while trying to locate the top to the bottom is difficult. Remove the Rod and Valve Assy (2377). This is the one from a 38 year old car and needs a good clean. This is from a 38 year old XC and was a little worse for wear. I only used WD40 and wire wool to clean all these parts. Disassembled. All that is needed for this is a strip down, clean and reassemble. Make sure that the little piston is removed and cleaned and the reaction disc (Part No 2414 from drawing and replacement part no VH2013) replaced and that the piston is free to move. Once this is split the main diaphragm assembly can be removed from the housings. Again this takes a bit of force as the whole assembly needs to be pushed from the lower seal. This is how they look once removed. Any wonder the brakes were a little odd! To remove the pedal to booster assemble simply remove the circlip and the whole rod pushes out. To remove the diaphragms you will need a small flat blunt screwdriver as the diaphragms are sandwiched between the Valve Body (Part No 2391) and the Diaphragm Plates (Part No’s 2395A, 2395B and 2395C). Take note of the disassemble sequence although the assembly can only go one way when reassembling. here is the assembly without the diaphragms Remove the rear seal from the main housing. This is not shown clearly on the Ford exploded view but is replacement part No VH2029. I then cleaned the whole lot up with wire wool, soapy water and some fine wet and dry. Replace all the diaphragms (replacement part No’s 2A365B = 2579 and 2A365A = 2588). This requires a little silicone grease around the inner lip of the diaphragm and then just force (using hands only) the diaphragm between the diaphragm plate and the Valve Body. It takes some effort but goes eventually. Do this for both Diapragms. Make sure that the diaphragm 2A365B (2579) is pushed up around the outer lip on 2395B as this allows the vacuum to be formed when in use. This is a final assembled unit. Also when the whole assembly is put back into the main housing make sure that the top diaphragms 2A365A is (2588) outer edge is below the retaining indents to enable a seal between the housing and the diaphragm plate 2395B. I then just put the whole part assembly back into the jig compressed the top housing and spring and then tapped the top cover around using a soft hammer and the plate that I made to go over the master cylinder mounting studs. I managed to do one in about 1 hour including cleaning. It is a pretty simple job really if you have the right set up. If there is anything I didn't describe well please let me know and I'll only be too happy to help where I can. Wayne

It’s back together! Nearly! Ha ha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't sell yourself short mate, your info was great. Thanks for posting. It's stuff like this that helps anyone doing up the old Fords. Excellent thread.

au 6 cylinder does have the same input shaft length as e series (and xf) 6 cylinder 4.0, I used an au bellhousing when I put the au based 4.0 in my xh but I kept the original xh t5, but the au extension housing is longer and the shifter is 30mm further rearward than earlier t5's.

graffix unlimited - they have the decal's.

Bit of a thread revival here, anyway one I recently discovered was using old Christmas wrapping paper for masking up panels for painting. Had heaps of it laying around and it worked great.

Thanks for the advise fellas, that build will be a while away while i cut the rust out of the old girl no point building an engine till i can put it in the darn thing...

Yeah ditto everything above. I had a Cortina with an aftermarket 2 barrel manifold, which had no water jacket. It was an absolute pig in winter, barely idled due to the base of the manifold cooling so much from fuel vapourisation, that it would ice up. That's why you have that water jacket. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Yeah mine had those spots you mentioned as well as the plenum rot, might depend on where it was parked. When I repaired the tops of the plenum (the bits either side of the grille) I noticed that the underside had stuff-all paint, so that might well be the cause of the rust. The c-pillar in yours lives under the sail panel so even if you cut one out of an old fridge door and weld it in, you won't see it. The sill same thing, as long as the bottom of the guard has something solid to bolt onto and sits nicely in relation to the door, it doesn't matter what it looks like really. Body deadener fixes all... And when it's all done, fish oil the crap out of everything once a year, no excuses for it to rust then. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

that rust is pretty typical of any XD XE XF XG etc age these days, was pretty common 10yrs ago even. is that TOO MUCH, NO! if that's all that's in it, that's not much rust at all. @2redrovers might have a better explanation but from My experience, in these falcons. .those spots are easier to fix than most other cases. check the wiper plenum, remove the grille by removing the left wiper arm, then 5 or 6 screws, spray the redbacks inside,, put some gloves on and vacuum or get the leaves out of inside there. check for rust inside.. that's the worst to fix in my opinion. A pillars(things the front door hinges bolt to) can be rusty sometimes, but if they aren't rusted you'll rarely find much elsewhere.

burning spark boots on the exhaust? How to Install Accel Extreme 9000 Ceramic Boot Wires

Just watched lastest roadkill (at 21:25)Draguar, Friebuger was saying he came up with the idea for them, "Quote of Friebuger" "circa 1986 I was working at a aftermarket ignition company, Jacobs electronics they did systems for RV's/motorhomes , RV's/motorhomes were having issues of burning plug leads going up long grades since they get so hot. They where having a meeting about it asking if anyone had an idea to fix it, so I said "'I do you know what dosen't burn... spark plugs, why don't we make them out of the same porcelain as spark plugs".

Depends on what it's behind, what variant of T5 it is and what kind of driving. Garden variety 6-cyl one won't last long behind a healthy 351, but a T5Z (driven reaaonably) probably would. The T5Z needs either a spacer/adaptor to go between the bellhousing and the box (input shaft is 16mm longer) or a completely new bellhousing to suit. Even then, you still have issues with gearbox mount alignment, shifter location and tailshaft length. You could get the input shaft turned down to the old length to compensate. I have a 6-cyl T5 behind my 302 on a modded toploader bellhousing. Wasn't too hard, but there are CRS bellhousings to adapt one to the other without dramas. For $3500, you could get a T5 stuffed with bulletproof internals and some nice ratios to go with it. $3500 is a rip-off to "rebuild" a 4 speed. They are just milking the resto market for all it's worth. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Was running 19 tooth changed to 21 tooth to suit 3.23 diff but im guessing the bridgestone eagers on the 14" rims are larger than stock so still out of whack.

No all common on x series, you can get repir nose sections for the sill panel.

yes the v8 t5's use a longer input shaft than 6 cylinder, and au v8 also has the shifter further rearward than earlier t5's

Ok my bad... Lucky we have folks who know what the fuck they're on about [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

i thought the AU had same input shaft as the older 6cyl T5s but longer extension housing end with gear stick further back.. never seen one though, so would also tag @Thom

mine had flat tops.. poor choice on My part(didnt choose a big enough cam.) and was around 11:1 i don't think it was zero decked, but the block was surfaced as was the head.

yeah seemed they are common for leaks, and they said if they pull the top cover they can have a bit of a look for obvious wear but naturally cant' check it all out. but if it's fine and only leaking they were happy to just re seal it. good to hear it's a good mob to deal with, i'll be going to see them about My broken gemini gearboxes i suspect. (was tossing up going auto, but need the overdrive .. kind of has to be done i think)

My shiny mylar taped ones are holding up ok, nobody's even noticed. They are much better than what was there before anyway Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

you could fit a T5 in it's place, @gerg may confirm this idea has merit

It's is a solid bracket, and cant be maneuvered. I will just have to grind very gently, and no doubt, it will take several attempts to get it right.Cause as it stands, the alt bracket sits perfectly in the XD alt bracket, and I could only fit 1 copper washer at the back in there to take up the slack. cheers

Thanks guys , I'm rebuilding the motor and want to get rid of all unnecessary crap under the hood . got a set of triple webers, cam , lifters ,and extractors to go on it

For those dead bugs stuck to your bumper after a weekend away, stretch a soaking wet beach towel over the area and leave for an hour. Then wash off as normal.