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I have been busy working away on the interior of the Darkside Garage Inc. Millennium Falcon Longreach. Still heaps to do.

If your 302 hasn't been messed with, the heads will be closed chamber. The only Clevos that were closed were early 4Vs and Aussie 302 2Vs (with smaller chambers again). Closed chamber is a superior design for the way it promotes combustion. It creates turbulence just as the piston teaches TDC and promotes more complete combustion, it also keeps the burning mixture moving, to keep chamber temps more even and prevent hotspots (thus detonation). Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Precision International do Hypatec Pistons to suit the 351 crank with 302 rods https://www.precisionintl.com/BrandSearch.aspx?Brand=Hypatec&Cat=1&Make=22&Model=&Engine=459

thats only for borgwarner autos not FMX/C4 etc the gears run the opposite on these so the gears teeth are cut the opposite angle

HI mate, I made a 351 with 302C heads, 4bbl intake and a Holley 600 I put a kit through. Went like bejesus, I used an Elgin E-907-P camshaft and it was lovely - good and torquey still down low with a nice rorty idle, then went pretty hard through the midrange when you put your foot down. Compression was about 10.7 to 1 but 95 octane was fine with total timing about 30 degrees and an idle timing of 15.

Or crank and rods from a 351, standard pistons. Everything else is identical. But you will end up with high compression, so make sure you have a decent cam to compensate. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

As was the case with most of the Ford engines............

Once you have the heads off, the OPEN chamber will be a full circle (looking at the 2 valves), the CLOSED chamber is sort of D shaped Most 302's had the closed chamber heads. Lifters are the same, HT900 I think? Double row chain, water pump etc

Crank and rods from a 351, and keep the closed chamber 302 heads. The combo suggested by ChestnutXE is good, but, not sure on the price of the pistons. Make sure you tell the parts shop you are using 302 rods, if you go that way. ACL used to make them, not sure who does now....

keep heads ,rods,use special piston,find 351crank,done.

The sector shaft seals go in like this, but the last one, a dust seal, goes in smooth side down. If you put it in the other way, the lip runs on the splines. Pitman Arm pivot: it's not a ball joint but a straight pin that runs in a nylon bush encased in a tapered rubber outer bush. You open up the peened edge around the joint and push the pivot out the bottom. This pivot was pretty corroded so I gave it a linish, cut a slot down the nylon bush (so it collapses down and takes up the slack) and re-assembled the lot. I drilled and tapped for a 6mm grease nipple in a section that I reckon wouldn't take much load. The problem with this joint is that it faces upwards and collects water with no outlet, so it chops out due to corrosion. If it was greasable from the word go, it would never wear. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

New rocker covers came now change paint to black on bolts instead of blue Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Some baby steps today... Power Rack: Power piston rack adjuster screws in from the outside, onto a swiveling button that runs on a polished section on the back of the rack. The button can be held in place initially with some grease or Vaseline. Leave it wound out for now. Worm Shaft Bearing: Firstly, you should adjust worm shaft bearing preload by winding it up without the sector shaft installed. This allows you to feel the bearing drag without any other friction in the system. I aimed for a light, consistent drag without any "graininess" to the movement of the shaft. I adjusted that threaded alloy end plug with a pair of multigrips. There's a seal that goes inside between the plug and the bearing cup. Tighten locknut once done. Sector Shaft: As mentioned, make sure the rack adjuster is backed off all the way to allow clearance between the teeth as you feed the sector shaft down into mesh with it. The teeth on mine needed some burrs taken off to slot into mesh correctly. Now that it's in, to adjust properly you really need to pop that Allen key plug out of the top plate and adjust the worm follower wheel (if that's what it's called) with the Allen key adjuster. I couldn't get that plug to budge out of the housing and didn't want to break anything. So decided to adjust it with the plate off, then pop the plate into place to locate the top of the sector shaft and give a more accurate roller clearance. The roller clearance always gets tighter when you install the plate. If installing new seals in the box, I would leave the o-ring out of this top cover until your adjustment is done (to prevent o-ring damage) You need to make sure your follower is in the middle of the worm shaft, as the straight-ahead position is the most critical point for adjusting free-play. It appears that the clearance gets much looser as the wheel travels to each end of the worm (ie: at the end of each steering lock) I suppose this is to allow for greater wear occuring in the middle of the worm shaft and when this wear is taken up by adjusting, the additional clearances away from centre (where much less wear occurs) prevents binding once adjusted. This extra clearance toward each end doesn't affect steering free-play in operation as the built-in castor and self-centering effect always has steering load taking up the slack, trying to push the steering back to the centre where the load is neutral. This adjustment can be a trap on manual boxes: adjust for wear and get the clearance nice in the middle and it can lock up as soon as you wind the steering off centre. It took a few goes, but I reached a compromise. There is a little bit of play in the follower wheel that I can't do much about. The shaft is pretty much in the right spot here, as it lines up roughly with the plug in the bearing plate. You should adjust it right up till it's tight, wind it through a few locks each way, and try and find any tight spots or notchy feeling through the input shaft. You will likely feel them just either side of straight ahead. Back off the adjustment till no tight or notchy spots can be felt through the full movement of the input shaft lock-to-lock. EDIT: more pictures added above Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Mine revs to 8200 yet drives around at 2000 around town very easy? Sits on 3150 for 100kph thru a 5700 convertor But do relate the above to performance engines. Just it has solid info that is helpful for use on a build.

this is a photo of the young Han solo Millennium Falcon. i'm trying to have it look similar but not the same.

As said you may have to click on the link once or twice to read in postimg to get full screen. But its good stuff and well worth it.

Ok now for the dreaded Teflon seals Based on advice from[mention=124]gregaust[/mention] , I installed the seals by gently stretching them around the valve assembly. I wasn't as gentle with them as he suggested, ended up with a twist in each one. It took some careful coaxing with a small flat screwdriver to get them squared up again, then I compressed them by using a quality hose clamp and using the solid part of it (not the punched thread bit) to compress the Teflon down to the right diameter. The housing doesn't have much of a taper into the sealing area, so this step is crucial for getting it to sit home without damaging them. Clamped up: See the difference between clamped (left) and not clamped (centre) Now on to the piston seal. This is a bit easier to get on than the valve seals as it's a larger diameter. The o-ring goes in first and acts as a rubber spring to force the Teflon out against the bore. Instead of trying to shrink the Teflon down, I will have to come up with a way of collapsing the seal (sort of like a ring compressor) while installing to get past the threads at the start of the bore. Something like sticky tape or celluphane might do the trick. Seal protrusion And she's in. Used a bit of sticky tape wrapped tightly around the seal and piston, but I would suggest an alternate method because the tape was really difficult to get off once the piston is in.

cool roadtrip indeed looked at your photo.. is that a crack.. not in a place i'd expect an issue with running though do you have a photo of the mazda 1800 in the escort? could be just the perfect combo for @2redrovers assuming they come with a 4 speed auto option for his panelvan.

I can't remember if Ford played with dish size or piston height or both to get the lower compression in the smog motors. Sad times... So much potential for that motor but it never had its chance to shine in factory form Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

i probably should show this. we wouldnt have fitted any of that stuff in the boot if i didnt get the spare wheel in the correct hole. its meant to have a 12" spare wheel in there from factory, so fitting a 13" spare in there can be hard. I ended up going to Jolly's and spent a while looking at their tyre racks until i found a single, 155/70R13 for $16. it was a brand new tyre. had never been on a car, never used. took it to tyrepower in Berwick, who we know personally, he didnt charge me for fitting the tyre. and all of a sudden i had my boot space back.

I had an acoustic screen replaced in the FGX and it was $670

The side pods for the back of the van, I will take a photo once I get it in the back tonight.

This thing is so wide,black covers look ok too very cheap,why even bother cleaning stockers Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

this is another 400 i got and cheap rebuild for sale soon