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I have a 66 xr ute with an xa width borgy (M76?)in it behind a 94 5lt xr8 motor and BTR. The borgy is hanging in there but the 25 spline axles have a slight woble and cant get replacements or get them fixed! I am having trouble getting a decent builder to make a diff for me. I have changed my mind from getting a bigger borgy or dana or 9 inch (I have a nice xy housing) but they have all got drawbacks. 9 inch are VERY heavy and I dont realy need one with my stock 5lt. The little borgy is limited to what little stuff I can by for centres and the m80s are probably the size for me but cant find a builder that will supply EVERYTHING! I find most builders are in Melbourne or vic and thats not close enough as I am in Newcastle area. So for its either they dont like m80s, want use 2nd hand parts, use the centres they have, use the new heavy after market 9 housings not mine, want to build the diff as they say not what I ask for, wont do brakes and brake lines and wont do handbrakes. Maybe I am fussy wanting them to make a complete item but? Anyway any segestions? Looking for trutrac 31 spline, disc brakes either 9 inch as I have a housing or m80? Any help appreciated.

STICKY DOOR HANDLE ISSUE (outside rear right in this case) could cause your door not to open or close (see above post for possibly more notes on the issue) NOT AN ACTUATOR ISSUE, but Could have been a locked up actuator due to the door handle sticking (not sure) knee pad, look after your knees, you'll miss them when they are gone. I THINK it's a T30 torx.. these screws can be super tight (rusted) i had to drill the heads off some spare doors here to remove the mechs (haven't tried fixing them, but the mech may have parts so i kept them) front left and rear right mechs.. I am working on the rear door, but thought i might need to use parts from the actuator.. (the front one had the stuffed mounting bolts, so it was the sacrificed one if needed.. not needed in this case) not much to see here, but this is the drivers rear one before I cut the zip ties and before the handle lever rod fell out. (take photos, so you know how to put it back together) there was nothing wrong, but i forgot to heed the warning in the video a few posts back about the spring flying off when you remove those geared parts and motor.. (took me 2 minutes to reassemble after looking at this picture of how it was meant to be.) THE OFFENDING DOOR HANDLE (from the inside, rod lever disconnected, and you can see the lever arm stuck down, it should spring back to the top, the rod shouldn't have tension on it when installed) even closer pic arrow pointing to the tight area, I'm going to sand this down and grease it. as long as the lever arm isn't going to be affected by sanding some clearance, i'll give it at least 1mm of clearance if it's easy to do.. (going to try not remove the handle to work on it, as the mounting bolts can also be a problem to undo on these cars) that center pivot screw i don't want to mess with, i can't see how it would be too tight? (however, if it was too tight, i'd mess with it ) and a crap video of My observation for your viewing pleasure.

fixed the sticky handle today. was actually tight on the pivot spindle (under that screw, torx T20) decided to try remove the handle, it's risky, the bolts came out though with ease (they have a locking compound on them) access through the door by removing a grommet once i got the handle out, the area i thought it was catching on, already had clearance T20 torx for this self tapper (could probably cut a slot in it and use a flat head screw driver) washed the handle up, taking photos of how the spring went together sanded the spindle with 320 grit sanded the inner hole .. got sick of that fast after testing it several times with no change taped the sandpaper to a bit and used it like a flap sander in the hole for a while until it was a loose fit. crap video of it not sticking anymore. i wiped some engine oil on it, because i couldn't find my grease tub.. (should probably have put silicone spray on it?) it appeared to have NOTHING on it from factory though? works perfectly after refitting it. also took the opportunity to wash out the dirt from the inside of the door and clear the drains (found some rust also, but door trim covers it fine, non issue)

mine initially wouldn't open.. from either door. now you mention it, i did check the child lock, and it seemed sus also.. but i think it was possibly unrelated to the issue. (found it today, partly fixed) I think the CAUSE is possibly from pressing the lock button (has to be with the remote or central locking) while the door handle is trying to open .THIS ISSUE is due to the outer door handle rod puller sticking in the open position.. (I'm uploading pics for a detailed post now) if it doesn't lock, check back soon on My next post. It could be the outer handle sticking. . this is the drivers side rear, but it would easily be possible on the rear doors (front door handles are a different actuation )

Left Rear? Mine did that yrs ago... still doesn't lock

Had that happen in the rangie but the door wouldn't open. Actuator had shat itself and basically stuck the child lock halfway between open and closed. I had to dismantle (destroy) the mechanism from inside the closed door after getting the trim off. They're essentially a ford part as well.

had an issue with the AU today, rear door wouldn't unlock, or open.. then later when i was cycling the locks with the lock/unlock button it unlocked and opened, and now won't close (car can't lock either now) guessing i'll be pulling an actuator apart tomorrow . (i have spares, so should be able to fix it in the same way this guy did)

there's a NZ based forum that has a lot of custom stuff.. here's the DIY Fuel Injected Thread (note, if you join there, read the rules, you can't post in their project threads, they have a separate "discussion thread" also have an intro thread like we have here but it's one continuous thread for each person to post after the next) https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34850-diy-fuel-injection-thread/page/121/#comment-2715941 3 ITBs from something that measures up to the right cubic inches would be kind of cool. few guys over there doing custom 3D printed in plastics or metal adapting e throttles to custom engine builds. no idea what's in that EFI thread, but no doubt whatever you've thought of and what you'd never think of would have been discussed/discovered in it.

well i bought one from pick a part that had more cracks in other places, and then realised the dial for the vents was stuff and sus.. so i chose to leave all the spaghetti hoses hooked up and glue it back in situ, afterall, the vacuum stuff worked before this cable holder broke. first joined the broken bits back with regular super glue, then basted them with 2 part epoxy araldite stuff(said metal repair, fake JB weld i was hoping.. was given it a while back) not overly trusting the glues, i decided to strip the plastic of some bag tie wires, and wrap wire around it, then glue it some more.. still tempted to clip the cable onto it and then goop it all with silastic also.. (the cable is unhooked behind the glovebox now, this is what's needed before removing that center radio/heater control panel. )

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD - https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847 @deankxf -