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1. Get a voltage reading at the positive terminal of the ignition coil with KOEO (key on engine off) It should be 90% of the battery voltage 2.Also, there should be a relay fitted for the fuel pump. Which will prevent it draining current from the ignition coil and so dropping the voltage measured above 3.Something to consider: When ignition switches fail they will only make intermittent contact between the terminals inside the switch 4. Measure the resistance of the primary and secondary coils of the ignition coil The primary coil is susceptible to burning out and becoming an open circuit In which case the resistance will be infinity

I've put a couple of hundred au head gaskets on e series falcons (always good to source au spec bolts too), I've always had the head skimmed and just cleaned the block really well with scrapers and an oil stone, as long as the block is flat it will hold up for more than a couple of 100,000ks, its funny most ea to ed head gasket failures I've seen were caused the head gasket failing or corrosion in the head, 7 out of 10 ef/el failures were a broken bolt on cylinder 2 or 5, usually exhaust side

My brother didn't do anything but check for straightness, replace one valve and clean the sufaces with a wire brush and send it.. 100,000 ish kms no issue on the gasket, but the car was basically worn out, so was given to a mate to run into the ground.

Yeah, bolt kits should be same from XA/XB etc, seat rail has a small "cup" over the square head of the bolt to stop it from turning. I always dab a weld on there as I hardly ever remove seat rails once they're in. As Dave said, they get cleaned up by dirt, speedbumps, tree roots and cats etc...

Well I'm back with good news. So at idle when I drop the timing the engine runs slower and rougher but after setting it at around 12° it seems to be really happy. When I put my foot down it goes hard off the line and seems to cruise nicely. I might fuck with it more but so far so good. Just gotta deal with that cold starting issue although I think the thermal choke is rooted, I'll swap it out tomorrow and hope for the best.

That might be it too I'll have to see. I can swap the rails but if I'm going to use the wrong seat I may as well use the one out of the EA as its in much better condition. My original plan was to swap the vinyl cover from my seat to this one but as its different it would need a full retrim and it wouldn't be worth it

Jack/handle/brace, go in a bag made from carpet, and live behind the seat. The wheel compartment hold-down, is for a thread/bracket and wing-nut, to stop the wheel sliding side-to-side.

Just a random question but where does the jack go in an XF ute? When I bought it it was just thrown in the back along with the wire handle, in the spare wheel compartment it had some kind of hold down for something just thrown in there and in the top right there's a bracket which looks like something to do with the jack. I stared at it for a good 2 minutes and couldn't figure it out, anyone got any ideas?

i assume it's the same, brother used an AU one from memory on his EB 3.9 engine.

I'll try to get the motor in there going but when it comes to the idea of an engine swap I just can't see me actually using it after I'm done. I never really liked the EA and with this one being a bottom of the line cfi model I don't know if it would be worth it when I already have an xf. I'll give the ATF trick a try and see how I go.

Well the EA is dead on arrival. I was gonna drop the tank and put a pump in it but I decided to try and start it first. Turns out it's seized! I pulled the plugs and they were all rusty on the tip (they had that 'wet' rust like there had been moisture in there). I've sprayed inox in there but I'm not hopeful, I might try pulling the head off to see if I can give it a ghetto rebuild but with it being an ea with 365,000kms it's not a priority. Anything cool I can jam into an ea or would I just be better of listing it on marketplace?

the EA i bought for $100 had half a tank of petrol and $46 in coins under the back seat.. (3 speed auto CFI model) i used some parts to fix My brothers EB and sold the wreck for $50 to a wrecker who had a sale for the auto for $150 the same day. (no rust, few weeks rego, reliable but needed every suspension part and brakes done like a year earlier at least.. ) got a better pic of it somewhere Nissan B11 panel van, can't remember if that was my good ute or the one i bought for $236, Brothers EB, $100 EA and the $3000 VG coupe (had trouble selling it for $3500)

i would imagine if you get a quote for retrimming, you'll be putting a seat cover on it. likely be over $1000 for a bench seat to be retrimmed.

Well I've ordered a replacement seat bottom and bolts from midnight spares so that should be here next week, after that I'll have to get them reupholstered. Do they make replacement skins for the XF of do I just have to take it to a shop?

Standard seat rails from any XF will prob fit, Ute, Van, wagon etc. Or you can purchase new from Outlaw Speed or VPW etc. Can buy new repro XA/XB bucket seat rails from GT Ford/Grand Tourer etc.

It has a standard falcon seat in the rear. Light grey colour it’s similar to the part of the copy seats so it will match a bit. I got standard rails I didn’t think about the universal ones they sell. [emoji2357] Has black door trims that got done a while ago. I will post up some pics once in get it all cleaned up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

what are you doing for the back seat? do they sell a trim set for it? A mate of mine also has the copy seats, i think he bought rails from them to suit but not 100%, i'll try remember to ask though.

Beautiful will look into something like that. Thank you for your help. The car currently has some electric seat from another brand car in it as it got stolen years ago before I got it and the interior was taken so I’m starting from scratch. The aftermarket seats are flat along the sides so I will have to run something to clear the mechanism otherwise I would love to bolt straight to rails to get seat as low as possible. Trying to bring it back to original-ish lol

no idea, fairly sure i got some equivalent spec from the bolt shop in Geelong about 20yrs ago but had hex heads. (sit a ring spanner on when doing up without the stupid thing that's supposed to stop them spinning in the way)

seat spring, is it the base ? or the seat back? bucket or bucket bench? if you are going to have a go at it yourself, you could probably swap it for a middle one (bench seat ?) and hose clamp it together if not welding it. if you can find a left bucket seat with the same trim, you could do a simple fix pinching the foam or most of it and join the trim up. the seat backs are harder, due to you cant get the head rest off without sliding the seat trim all the way up to the head rest and then breaking the locking tabs on the plastic sleeves (heating might prevent breaking the tabs) to get the headrest out.. you may not need to remove the headrest depending what you are doing, but it would help. i'm fairly sure the GT shop(link below for bolts) also have the seat winder knob clips that are likely to break when removing.. there's a video HERE of how to pull a toyota seat apart which is similar in many ways. I'm about 95% sure these are the same seat bolt https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262908272571?itmmeta=01J537KTDNGGS8GY33HDB5NS2B&hash=item3d368ddfbb:g:Tn4AAOSwj01dXOIr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwG5HUhWCEm3WkLKagowbfiM%2FIQRhLno8FPhH11bGrnxMjTV1S1sqQWFb%2BO3yxdTLi7h7A17SoDqc1WS1iAij5ylY%2BWnI59jSSDUUNobt8TV8NArBwjNNus08Mt%2FQdzh5G2%2F0oVRpBN16UIOYgcHlNbJyPlHsQKg5ExLRM9DRLvaeipeKzrEL9QFR2igGa%2FDAWru3AjeUqgM%2B497Zsfwmi8RekB1aFIyAUI%2FFMKeR0q%2BXvUw%2BfsnILXLXKHaDrJ2sUA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_6mz-eoZA

I gave the carby a half assed rebuild while I was trying to get it running so it should be ok. I'm thinking of doing a full rebuild on the original and put it back on but it's missing some shit.

Well I finally got off my arse and worked on the thing. I've got it all together and it goes. After driving the thing I now know why I spent all the money on this thing. It hates cold starting and has a rough idle but I'll do some tuning and see if I can get her running better. One thing I noticed is that the odometer seems jumpy with it seeming to wind up too quickly. First time I drove it with the original cluster the trip odometer jammed after a km and the main was winding way to fast. Clearing the trip odometer fixed it though. I'll probably focus on making it run right first but it just seems a little weird

The back cross member & X support structure seems the main support. Stopped myself from cutting into it yesterday,turned to custard they're pretty hard to replace over in NZ

Guys, I've created this thread to keep people up to date with T.I. Performance and our efforts to tune EA-AU Ford Falcon EEC-V and EEC-IVs using widely available software and cost effective hardware. Our aim is to provide reliable, value for money performance tuning for EA, EB, ED, EF, EL and AU Ford Falcons, both I6 and V8. For the latest info on the hardware and definitions, see http://www.tiperformance.com.au. For software, im using TunerPro RT. If you are not interested in DIY tuning your own car... I can provide Pre-Programmed J3s, ready to plug into your ECU, which will 'convert' an Auto ECU into Manual, Standard into Tickford/XR6, etc. I also offer Custom Pre-Programmed Chips with tunes 'tweaked' for stock/mild/crazy cams giving much better idle quality, fuel economy, power & AFRs. I can also disable both smartlock and smartshield for use in engine conversions etc. If you have any questions about our gear, feel free to fire away! Cheers, Jason

My xf has the turning circle to rival a oil tanker...