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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    CHESTNUTXE

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    My rocker cover kit came just plain n simple good value at $100 comes with bolts breathers gromets almost finished Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
  2. 3 points
    gerg

    Replacement head for iron crossy

    Lol spoiler alert: Cutting sick grass skids..... With smoke! [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. 3 points
    gerg

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    Yeah been killing time at the park and reading about them, they were only used for a short time then switched to a *cough* Rochester.... Yep! The more I read, the more I think it might be not worth fucking with. They were very problematic by the sounds of it. Flat spots that can't be tuned out, fuel percolation, etc. If Ford had to buy in a GM carby to fix the issue, it mustn't be a great unit to start with. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. 3 points
    bear351c

    Replacement head for iron crossy

    Thunderhead289 (YouTuber) did this on their Satellite revival. 318 hemi (I think) worked a treat.
  5. 3 points
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    The V8 mounting brackets aren't the same for each side. One bolt is different on one corner, and mirrored so you can't swap sides. The 6 cyl ones are offset to mount the engine further forward due to extra length. Those drillings are for balancing, but not for engine balance. It's just so the part itself has zero imbalance, leaving all external balancing to the harmonic balancer counterweight. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. 3 points
    deankdx

    Speedo correction help.

    say it has a 19 tooth gear in now. a 21 tooth will slow it down roughly 20% from what i understand (one tooth makes about 10% difference according to the mob i used to deal with back in the day)
  7. 3 points
    CHESTNUTXE

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Pic Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
  8. 2 points
    Slow250XC

    Replacement head for iron crossy

    Thought about running an adaptor, have had one a trademe watchlist for months. Just did not think too much about it. Makes sense though and can easily ream out the holes. You guys are awesome as usual!! Sent from my SM-J330G using Tapatalk
  9. 2 points
    CHESTNUTXE

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    Hey i just found out that this 4 barrel one is a 600cfm 4300A model used up to 1976 maybe worth recoing and put on the 400 Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
  10. 2 points
    gerg

    Replacement head for iron crossy

    Could you flip a 2-to 4-barrel adaptor to run a 570 on your existing manifold, with a carby spacer to help with the transition? You could do a bit of throating out and smoothing of the plenum to help turn the corner. Just a suggestion instead of starting from scratch with the manifold Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. 2 points
    gerg

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    That Motorcraft 2 barrel looks smick on there, do you know what size it is? There are 4 or so different sizes, the Venturi diameter is stamped on the float bowl apparently. There are listings of CFM ratings for each size available. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    NZXD

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    By the time you buy a blower carb and modify the bonnet (reverse cowl) plus the blower itself you are really into some cash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. 2 points
    2redrovers

    BUYING A MEDIA BLASTER

    I'd recommend buying or building a small booth type, like what I made for my shop. For small bits, something like a converted filing cabinet, plastic tub, kitchen cupboard, or like mine, an enclosed pallet would work with an old window for viewing. A bathroom extraction fan or modify a vacuum for nuisance dust removal. The pot gun your looking at isn't bad but they clog fairly easily. That and without an enclosure, it's a last resort for me out in the shop. A set up that recycles the media is the best way because you can just keep going as long as the compressor will keep up. Keep your air clean and dry to help stop clogging. I've just got a couple of syphon guns but my better result is from a modified air gun that pushes more air through the ceramic nozzles. Syphon hose needs a breather hole to make it feed properly too.
  14. 2 points
    deankdx

    Odometer stopped

    fixed
  15. 2 points
    deankdx

    Odometer stopped

    welcome aboard, probably should buy a gregorys book for XF (don't think there's an XG one, so if you need the electronic stuff you'll need an EA EB book also) to remove the speedo cluster, its a bit of fun in the XG.. remove the light switches on the surround is what i did(but have seen them left mounted and unplugged later) take note of where they were and what wires they were plugged into. one screw holds them on. 2 screws on top for the surround, 2 under the light switch areas, and 2 hidden under the dash that most people don't put back in.. need to remove the fuse panel for this(pull the hand brake lever out a few clicks to manouver it out the cluster mounts with 4 screws, 2 on top, 2 on the bottom. can't remember, but you might need to remove the steering wheel on XG to get the cluster out. there's no speedo cable, but there are 2 wiring plugs on the back. if you were keen.. and had a spare to play with.. the odo gear is $5 ish on ebay.. on the XG you need to remove the speedo, and remove the needle and the face plate to get access to the gear.. that's after undoing lots of screws on the cluster housing etc.. i haven't got time to google pics for you but there'll probably be a tutorial on fordmods if it still exists and may be on here also if the photos still work
  16. 2 points
    gregaust

    Speedo correction help.

    With 3.5's depending on tyre diameter usually I go with 20 or 21 gets it near spot on
  17. 2 points
    Boingk

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    Nice one mate, an original carb would be worth running on it even just for simplicity sake. I wouldn't use a 350 Holley as they are really only a 250cfm job by 4bbl rating standards, and the 500 is a 375cfm by that measure. Check for yourself and you'll see the 500 has the same venturi diameter as a 750cfm 4bbl. I've used 350's on Ford 250's and Chrysler 245's and they don't work too well there, needing substantial rejetting and tweaking. If you can get a 500 go for that, otherwise a 4bbl with an adaptor would be better than a Holley 350. - boingk
  18. 2 points
    CHESTNUTXE

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    ok i bought the motor ,and found out its a DIF casting for dearborn foundry ,see picture maybe gerg can work out the casting date,look to me like 1e20 if thats correct its a first cab off the rank and 10.2.1,i took the air cleaner home,has nice vac original dizzy on it too,the seller said dont tell me too much about the engine or the price is going up so action man slapped the cash down.
  19. 2 points
    bear351c

    Xf door handle

    ........fix the door. The hinges are probably buggered, forcing you to "lift" the door with the handle.
  20. 2 points
    Thom

    92dt tickford head v 94ab head

    92dt is about the only head I haven't seen in person, I can say the 94da is the pick of the non tickford e series heads
  21. 2 points
    FORD_MAN

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    The T Meyer pistons are Keith Black/KB "Claimer" pistons. 1.710" pin height, 0.975" pin, 13.3cc. TMEYER catalog lists them as TMI/KB2347 searching KB site found silv-o-lite 3327H is a Ford (AUS) 250/4.1 flat top 1.530"pin height, 3328H is dished 8CC google search also came up with another KB piston that apparently suits is KB2334 flat top, 1.720" pin height, also found flat top forged 4032 pistons, 1.700" $578US, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-400-400M-MODIFIED-FORGED-FLAT-TOP-HIGH-COMPRESSION-PISTONS-/253088573838
  22. 2 points
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Yeah that seems like a very reasonable approach if you are to go with 302 heads. One thing with the 400 is that despite its similarities with the Clevo, it has a limited amount of go-fast parts available, so you're forced to work with what you've got. The point I was trying to make is to not expect it to behave like a closed chamber motor even if you go bolting the 302 heads on. I would personally stretch my budget for the right pistons rather than work with an unknown just to save $. I have been down that path and have learnt for myself what the saying "the poor man pays twice" really means. Chestnut was worried about the 400 smog heads having that bump in the exhaust but I think that would give minimal restriction. If it was a choke point, it's not hard to smooth it off. I also reckon, from pics I've seen of the ports on US 2Vs vs my own set of 302s, that the bowl area is better finished on theirs. Mine had horrible ridges around the throat and a really shitty short turn. I did a very basic port job on mine and I reckon 10% would be a conservative guess for a flow increase. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  23. 2 points
    Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Yeah thats why you need the specs. Without a listing for a direct part number, or failing that a compresison height and head volume, you can't tell jack. Often these things are a generic listing for 'part X' that will work with most combinations no matter the year - take the $200 piston set in my crossflow for example. Its designed for a stock mid 60's non-crossflow motor but because of the compression height and mild dish it works a treat. I think it was advertised as a "9.0:1" piston but in my combo it's more like 11:1. Fair enough. Still, I'd be tempted to run it anyway. Like I said, I've done it on the 351C and had no dramas at all running around on Caltex 95. Its cheap compression and had plenty of performance for what it was. I think I was into the whole combo for about $1000, being for 302C heads & tanking/machining, gaskets, lifters & cam, intake and ignition. One thing I did need to do, though, was set the timing so it only ran to 32' total timing. Any more it pinged when hot. For the 400 a 10.4 ratio is a 'best case scanario' with 8cc pistons and 65 deck. If the piston is actually 80 down the hole then you're at 10:1. If the pistons aren't 8cc items then you're lower again. I'd go with the smallest volume head you can and go from there - it just opens up a lot more choice with the other components.
  24. 2 points
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    They probably could have solved it all with a well thought out closed chamber along with a carefully dished piston to promote swirl (open chambers suffer from stagnant pockets and hot spots). They should also have pushed for further development of water injection. I like the idea myself... Water is pretty much free. I know the first unleaded fuels were rubbish, including when they later introduced them here (Holden didn't even bother trying to get their own 6s to run on it). I think we started with 87 octane or something horrible like that. Yet still, the 70s engineering approach to the problem of detonation was a case of diminishing returns... Keep decreasing compression to get around the fact that they used an inferior open chamber to decrease comp in the first place. They were really chasing their tails on that one. I laugh when people talk about the 400 as if it's a dog of an engine, a boat anchor, etc. The only reason that they didn't produce decent HP is they came along just as the muscle car era was fading, and rode the smog era until 82 when that class of engine was no longer needed. Look at any other engine built in that time and you will find equally dismal performance. They're capable of great numbers if built up like any other donk. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  25. 2 points
    CHESTNUTXE

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    ok i found more chunky info on this 400 engine,when the first 400s hit the market they were leaded and had 10.2.1 comp with flat top pistons and 76 cc 2v heads,then ford didnt do there homework and had problems with detonation,so the next 400s up to late 1973 had a 8cc dish piston and 78.4cc 2v heads which gave 9.2.1 comp still using leaded fuel,but the next generation of 400s these engines started to get the bad reputation ,unleaded fuel with very low octane saw pinging and all the rest and by 1975 even bigger dish pistons were fitted and cam timing was retarded ,and it gets worse late 70,s to 82 saw a piston with 38cc dish with 7.2.1 comp,so this engine i am buying is in the high comp era and i would say its the 72 or 73 red sticker leaded engine at 9.2.1,quite rare in australia and maybe now well worth having a go at it for a future project,also there is 3 types of 400 castings ,avoid MICHIGAN castings as they are prone to crack in the lifter valley area,then there is the DEARBORN CASTINGS which could be a lucky dip but later ones the castings were fixed,but the one that is considerd the go is the CLEVELAND CF foundry blocks as all have a good reputation,i think the one im buying is a CF as most early 400s were cast there.
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