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So just a recap of the shed ornament status. Gave it a good clean and stuck the battery in the boot. Also shielded the stereo cables and permanently fitted the back seat. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

For all my non Facebook friends. Bit dirty but you get the Idea. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Got the new shoes today. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Been busy and still haven't got the xf on the road yet. About 4-5 weeks ago in the uni holidays i got all the seat supports welded in. Was pretty much all done. Then got sick for a week and didnt get a chance to wof it before the term started. However I've managed to sneak a little time for something else, A group of mates and I decided we'd go on a uni clubs event 'cheap car challenge' this year. We did it 2 years ago in the el and had a hell of a weekend. Bascally you buy a shitter with a total budget of 1k. So..... along comes a reasonably tidy AU for $600, running on 5cl. Got a new coil pack for it and it ran on 6 but was guttless still. Then had to fix the diff as ya do... with the cigweld Then we wanted some protection for it. Needed a bash plate to stop the aloy sump splittng and a nudgy for nudging [emoji6] So we went and raided some scrap steel and got it slaped together in an evening and a morning. Then it was decided that it needed a theme The event day came and it was still guttless as shit so as a last minute atempt to fix it, we gutted the cat and installed a new knock sensor. Then it was way too loud since it was already straight piped. Finally got a muffler welded into it about 30 minutes before the briefing, then we were off. Part 2 coming... Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Got todo a few dyno runs , cars running 12psi and showing 400hp at about 6,800rpm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers mate i like to be a little different and yeah certainly gained some momentum in the sales price. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

so according to powermaster the old alternator worked correctly and its my car? i mounted up a bosch unit with one wire sense (not the self sense crap from powermaster) worked first fkn go! 13.6v at idle - knew i was fucken right, fuck you power master .. ok rant over (it took me weeks to trouble shoot the last one so im a lil happy it now works again)

Stanced! Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Well bugger me it's been a long time since I updated this thread. The car still isn't done but not far off it. The 5.0L got the flick and now has a 351 long rod thumper cam, 2V closed with 4V exhaust valves, Rollers, mated to a T5. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

My almost finished project

The awesomeness... I can't breathe!

Did some fabrication , made up a roof rack for drag challenge . It's hideous but also hilarious Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the upper bodyline masked off, guide coated and blocked back the top section, then guide coated and blocked back the centre section, that's as far as i got for now, i have the kids for the school holidays so have been a bit pre occupied. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Happened to me once ,, was standing off to the side when my beaut wheels needed their first change ,, grauuuunch as he stood on the pedal to spin them on ,, "" owner wont be happy there " i said ,, " will tell the boss it was gutter rashed when it came in " was the reply ,, " well you just got sacked cunt ! ,,, they are my fucking wheels " watched that snot nosed fuckhead pack his locker and leave in his torago once he got his marching orders . Wheel was replaced by the dealer

4k is a waste purely on hop-ups for a 302. That said, you can spend up on them now if you plan go to 351 later. I'm not one of those folks who straight away says "302s are dogs, don't bother, etc" because I have one in my wagon. My reasoning was that it was cheap, already rebuilt engine, and it could go in front of a 6-cyl driveline. I run a 6-cyl T5 in mine. It all depends on what you're doing to it. If you're rebuilding, 4k will be soaked up very quickly in machining and new engine parts, etc. If your current engine is healthy, money is best spent on the top-end. Get the heads done up with upgraded valve springs, hardened seats, 3-angle valve job, press-on stem seals, shave to get up to 10:1 comp, tidy up the ports to take out dags and ridges. Not including the ports, which I did myself, this whole job cost me about $1400 with parts. Have a look in my thread (gergwagon revamp) to see what I did to my ports. Don't waste money on an inlet manifold. The only advantage would be weight. The standard iron 4-barrel clevo one is good unit, and would be more than adequate on a 302. The only consideration would be if you have the choked-down (funnel) one that came with the 302, the earlier 4-hole one or the one with 2 open plenums. The last one is most desirable. Mine was the choked one but my brother machined it out to open. The bottom end, if in good order, will handle decent rpm stock. The short-stroke 302 will sit on 6500 rpm all day, and clevo rods are so beefy that you don't even need to think about them. 3500 stall is pretty high for a street car, might get a bit annoying on the freeway. I'd say go more like 2500, or keep it stock. I assume you're using a C4, in which case you should shift kit it to help it live longer and drive nicer. Diff should be 28-spline limo. Mine will only be 25 as it's a cruiser and I don't drag race or do burnouts. Plenty of diff gears available to wake it up: 3.27, 3.45, 3.77, 4.11 which is the reason why I advise not to go too high in the stall speed. Depends if you can build your own diff. If not, bolting in a XG ute diff would give you 3.27 but probably open centre. Going up in ratio plus too high a stall would make it unbearable on the freeway. High stall will also cook your gearbox if you run it hard. Camshafts are chosen on rpm range, so keep in mind that when you're choosing a clevo one, they're quoting the power band on a 351. In a 302, a good rule-of-thumb is to add 500 rpm to that figure. On an auto, you could go with an LSA a bit narrower, say 110-108 so you're in the meat of the torque curve when coming off stall. Choose a cam that's not too much above 0.500" lift as you don't want to stress the rockers too much. I know of a Crow cam that's around 224/224 @ 0.050", 108 LSA, and 0.507" lift that would be a good little cam for your setup. If you want to use roller rockers, get good ones. Cheapies are worse than using stock rockers. Think about if you want to go with 7/16" studs when getting the heads machined. Clevos aren't cheap to do because of the angles involved. There are bolt-on 5/16" ones from Scorpion or Yella Terra for around $600. You'll probably need pushrods too. If you keep the stock rockers, run a high zinc oil or moly additive. Try and find a second hand set of extractors, as new ones are pricey. Mine were $150, new ones are up around $800. A 600 Holley should do you for carby. 465 will be too small. Reco ones are getting hard to find as carby shops are all closing down now. New ones are pricey too. Allow $500 for that. So... Budget: Heads $1500 Cam/lifters $500 Roller rockers/pushrods $700 (optional) Extractors $800 ($200 s/hand) Carby $500 Diff rebuild $1000 Shift kit $200 (?) It's all starting to add up! Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thanks mate! Trying my best to make progress but I've got a new girlfriend, started an engineering/ fabrication apprenticeship that I have to travel for and I've also got a side business so I'm fairly flat out! I spent the day on it today and got a bit done including putting all of the door and window mechanisms back in the doors and polished all of the glass for the car. Also found yet another use for nutserts which may be my new favourite thing haha Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Was speaking with a mate who has a couple of XR falcons and is leaving town,i asked how he was moving all his parts and he offered me 2 old falcon he has stored at a different address well long story short i now have been given an XM futura coupe and an XP coupe. Admittedly both are pretty bloody rough in the body from what i can see as i couldnt get into the yard.But he has all the trim,interior in his shed for the XM. Will be having a good look at them tomorrow and get some photos hopefully not to far gone

Had a bit going on lately , the cars pulled apart again ATM . I did manage to take it out for some passes on the weekend , drove up to swan hill probably done about 700ks all up in a day , it was a very last minute thing and spent the night before leaving finishing off some safety stuff . best pass was 13.4 at 107mph , a little off what I wanted as the car wouldn't come up on the converter and I didn't really want to turn the boost up Any way I'm building another turbo manifold now and rephrasing the dizzy cap a bit to put more timing in it when cruising , hopefully a few little changes puts my in the 12s on 12psi Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

well here it is. 13s finally fitted to the car. Ok so I am pretty wrapped with the way its come up. When i first fitted them and lowered the car down off the jack, i immediately wanted to put the 15s back on. i did not like them haha. but the more i look at the car, with the ride height, and the dish on the wheels, and the negative camber up front, the more I really like these wheels It has opened a new can of worms however Im going to remove the drums and paint them. it looks shocking now that I can see the rusty drums, and I desperately need to sort out some centre caps for the wheels. It drives much much better. the vibration/shudder is 99% gone. its so minor now it feels like the road surface being rough is the only thing causing vibrations. however I am going to loosen all the tapered wheel nuts, and carefully do them up to make sure the wheels are properly seated and central on the hubs. otherwise, I am happy

What a beautiful sight, and sound........

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hoppers-crossing/cars-vans-utes/ford-xe-351-manaul/1197491337?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android

fuel gauge works! no fuel empty, full tank is full amazing how that works - thanks for crazy for making the unit, was over the old shitty factory style that never worked accurate any more

I wanted a way to neaten up tight spaces and my small ryobi belt sander had messed up its tip bearing. So after spotting a double bearing belt sander on ebay... this happened .. The air motor from the ryobi, the belt housing from my first air sander, some random small bearings and a few scraps of steel and bolts. Had to recess the old belt housing to work with the ryobi but it fitted well in the end. And its designed to work like this Took a little twisting and tweaking with big pliers etc to get the alignment right but it does track ok and actually sands. I used a belt cut down in half width ways but I think the powerfile belts for the current black and decker or makita may also fit straight on. The ryobi is unmodified too so when I get a replacement tip I can bolt it back together in a couple minutes, giving two for one [emoji4]

Well it's done and even though it wasn't ford, I'm glad Lowndes got it for his last go.

Modded EF cam sync ready to be locked out and dropped in the hole... And sitting pretty.No need for a dizzy around here👌🏾

They used to do that.. had this whole series with a big race every year... umm Bathurst I think it was called.. but that was waaay back in the good ol days

a couple pics of Tony's N/a 250 leaving the line on its way to 10.90 👍🏻👌🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻

$1000 not complaining. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah...Id like to de around mid 10's safely and conservedly which would need another 100hp.In theory it should make 575-600ish easy enough but anything could go or be wrong. But after some tuning Id expect it to be alot faster yes ✌🏾

took me a second or 2 .. then lol'd

Im going for 15 X 8.5 with 5" backspace and 265 50 15 tyres on the rear ( They look friggin huge) and 15 X 7 with 5" backspace on the front with 215 50 15s. ( White writing facing out for the old scheeol look still)!

So i went and had a look at some new wheels tonight and new tyres. Hopefully within the next few weeks these will be Lucy new shoes.

pretty much anyone that posts anything here know's what they are talking about.. sometimes there's a slip up of misinformation .. put that down to... i forget what i was going to say...

It’s been a while since the last update I don’t get a lot of time to make much progress. Here’s where I’m up to. I decided I wasn’t clever enough to make the Column work with the btr trans so I fitted a b&m shifter instead. The fuel system is all plumed up just have to wire it up. There’s plenty of room for the bonnet to close just have to trim part of the reinforcement so the header tank lid clears. I’ve discovered that nutserts are worth their weight in gold. Most of the wiring is done just have a lack of room under the dash. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so decided today i would do something even though i was dedicated to being a lazy cunt - one cut i had to much of a gap, but not concerned i will fix it - lay the panel over the top and cut makes a perfect line though bit fancy needs alot more work - but progress woo

50yrs ago yesterday, on October 17th 1968 - Bullitt was first released in theaters...

I got a little bit more done yesterday, wet rubbing all the primer on the top side of the bonnet frame (the side you don't see), then a bit of etch on any rub throughs. Then today i finished block sanding the under side of the bonnet skin. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Yep, putting mine together right now. The shim looks like this: I'm heating up the bearing in a saucepan of oil on the stove. Last one I did 2 days ago plopped straight on. Fingers crossed that the shim is right this time around Ready to go Fell straight into place, no hammering or pressing

Will be back out again soon once box is fixed 👍🏻👌🏻 Cheers 🍻

Hahaha it's a mates car, it's a N/a 250 with a single 4 barrel Holley, C4 and 9in

Mate, I don’t want to sound like a boring old man but those globes suit it fine in my opinion. With a bit of polish on the alloy they would look sexy as hell. But that’s just my opinion [emoji23]

I see only one way around this. Build an angry as hell clevo. 850dp on a single plane high rise, chi heads, crane f260/f246 solid cam, good set of forged pistons, 10.5-11:1 comp, 6 inch rods, fully balanced with pacemakers 4 into 1 with dual 3 inch collectors twin pipes with 1 magnaflow muffler in each dumped at the diff. 3500 stall c4, 3.89:1 diff. Spray fish oil on the body. Done

i can elaborate on the tailshaft for new players.. when fitting uni joints with a grease nipple, it goes on the taishaft side .. Dave had fitted it "as it was on the old one... wrong" and it actually rubbed on rotation .. also one of the circlips wasn't clipped in fully, do to some dust that wasn't cleaned out of the groove 100% it may have worked it's way in.. or out.. (i've had tailshafts fail too often to gamble that risk) on removal of the shaft i noticed the rear uni was also worn, chatter type marks on the surface of the cross.. replaced with an E series one that the yoke came from because it was as new and a SPICER brand(very good quality) so i suspect the tailshaft is now as good as it's going to get for minimal cost. other jobs on the Ftruck, clean out the trans cooler pipe(some mud wasp had plugged the hole) adapt a shift rod to the current shifter,(this means cutting it down and welding due to the bench seat being in the way, the shifter is mounted more forward) then finding out the gates are a bit different from FMX to C10 on the shifter, so park is fine, Reverse is closer to the N slot.. was dark then, it could be filed to work, but the heart want's a B&M shifter.. i approve the car parts diet.. can't afford food.. lose weight. the inhibitor switch was a plug n play affair and actually worked .. will need chopping for a B&M no doubt.. firing up the 351 straight out the manifolds was cool, didn't get video because it wasn't meant to happen at 9.30pm.. at least it's a public holiday tomorrow .. sorry neighborinos lol

Here's some pics, of a NOS Windsor EFI Crate motor

Nothing shits me more, you work hard to buy nice rims for your ride and some cock smoker can’t be stuffed to take a bit of care when fitting new tyres🤬 A local tyre shop I know has a “Holden Culture” they don’t give a shit about nice fords but you can roll in with a VN commie with 20” rims and they roll out the red carpet [emoji1589]I don’t want special treatment, just want them to respect my shit.

what do you intend to use the car for? i agree with gerg, and chestnut for that matter.. when i had a 302 clevo, i bought a 351 crank and rods, and the head joint did a trade on My 302 heads for 351 recos for bugger all extra, these days most head mobs can relieve the chambers of the 302 head easy for 351 conversion. if i was on a budget though i'd keep it a 302, and depending how worn, pretty much do what Chestnutxe does, new rings and bearings(getting crank and oil pump checked by reco machinist, could take block in just as easy also) new timing chain, cam and lifters, seals rings and bearings, reco the worn out dizzy, new leads(good ones) keep the thermoquad if it works(they are great when they work) 2.5" single exhaust from the manifolds back(cant see them being a restriction on a 302) you'll probably still see most of the $4000 gone especially if you paying mechanics for any of it.. get it dyno tuned by someone who knows what they are doing for $500 and you'll get more from that than most other mods. just get in your head that it's a dinosaur V8.. a V6 camry will be quicker if you are racing.. enjoy the V8 sound and cruise it in My opinion .. it will sound fast if you arn't next to anything new to visualise the slowness(like My gemini wagon, seems fast.. almost any new car will keep up with it if they wanted to)