Leaderboard

TO BE CONTINUED (when i repair what i broke, trying to fix the clock globe) CRUMBOLIUM (is what i'm calling the plastic housing on the back of the heater controls) * be super careful and only remove if necessary after reading the below. it took me looking in every AU at Pick a part, 4 remaining broken ones to piece together another cracked heater control that might work (mine only has a broken cable mount, so i may not even use it yet as it's unknown if it will work on the other parts) i'll add some more photos in the next week now, you probably SHOULDN'T need to remove this cable behind the glovebox normally, but that's only because when new, the cable holder was strong enough to unclip without breaking. it's similar to the XF type, but instead of a metal clip that flies off and gets lost, it flips up(quite tightly clipped down, lever with a small screw driver to flip it up from the sides) the other clip to the right is released by pushing the small screw driver over the cable outer and under the bitey bit of the clip and levering it out until it pushes the cable out. (image below was from a helpful facebook group member that took a video of it) the facia, which i'll detail a bit further when i go in to fix it again will be able to swing out further without breaking as easily (if not already broken) DEAR ON EBAY (sold prices below)

it is more a laminate skin on the outside almost like a tape and not to durable i have a NOS at home and it has pukkered on storage and creased the layer Dale

I was planning on using the Hoppers Stoppers 13" brake kit with the twin piston PBR calipers and appropriate pads, covered by AU S1 XR wheels and spacers. For a 'budget' brake set up, use good quality slotted rotors and the old Girlock calipers from XA and early XB falcons (with the wire retainer on the outside pad.) These calipers have a good sized pad to spread the heat and friction area really well. Metal king plus pads will give you good stopping power on the street with minimal fade, however, for track use, find something a little more aggressive. On various cars I found that in racing conditions, the places where brake performance matters is Sandown at the end of the front straight and Calder Park for the same reason, and from others experience, the Chase at Bathurst.

Braided lines I've found make a great difference . Perhaps good slotted rotors and good pads like ultimates or similar may get you where you want . In saying that I've used the RRS struts with the 300mm slotted rotors and pads work brilliant for me for street and the odd track day . Something like the 300 rotors and twin piston calipers are nice

Confirming they are surprisingly the same

1.5 Years later, I've finally had time to remove the engine and tear it down. On holidays for the Anzac long weekend, but will post some photos and engine measurements once I'm back. The car has done ~5,000 KMS of street and strip, revving to 5.2K regularly, from memory the ROD bearing clearances coming out of the motor are around 0.019 - 0.029mm. Got the next version of the build planned out, it's final state made 185rwhp and 380NM torque ATW. Peak horsepower was at 5K and torque from 3 - 5K. My goal for this next build is to fall into the 250-300 RWHP range, I would like to get the RPM to 6.5K for PEAK and hit that over and over again without fail. To start, getting the engine entirely balanced again and block zero decked. I have two questions: I have a 3.3L engine with 200 rods lying around, I've always been interested in taking a 200 rod combo approach, I've read a handful of threads and aware it's expensive, hard and really for the 7K RPM mark. But the burning question I have is if anyone can point me to pistons I need to use for it, I keep seeing that I need specific/custom pistons to make 200 rods work in a 250 block. I have a virgin C2 Alloy head, I know the first thing I want to do is grind the point int he chamber down to reduce it becoming a hot spot. Could anyone recommend any other porting or valve work I should do for the power range and RPM range I'm aiming for?

I'm going to assume they are the same, But when I've done the eb diff I would have used the XF bar because I didn't get an EB one with the diff, and the wagon EB diff I fitted to my ute also didn't have a sway bar so it didn't get one (ute doesn't have one)

A 78DA-7003-AB gearbox, is from an 81' onwards XD They were used in either 3.3/4.1 or 4.9 XD's, possibly very early XE's. Shorter ratio gearbox, I believe

Looking at the Exedy website, all the single rails (even 3speed) are 10 spline on the clutch friction plate 3speeds just have a smaller diameter shaft at 24mm, over 27.5mm The info regarding 19/20/21/22 splines, relates to the opposite end of the input shaft, internal to the gearbox? First screenshot is all XD, and XE up to 05/82 Second screenshot is XE only, from 05/82

i had a quick look through that, I've never known one to be different, but anything's possible with Ford i guess.

I'd disagree with that screenshot info wonder if @Thom or @SPArKy_Dave could help confirm it, they are all same as whatever a T5 is (pretty sure it's 10 spline)

I'll skip joining another group, there's often a lot of smart helpful people on these private facebook groups, so you probably got some valid feedback. the single rail i used was from a cortina, i had to swap the extension housing to the falcon type, i chose it because it had the easiest 1st gear for the 2.92 diff gears i had. (i had a 351 single rail on a 250 crossflow years earlier, and 1st gear with the 2.92 diff seemed to go close to 80kmh, but it was a hard start on a hill. hard to know what box i'd choose these days, all manuals are rare, worn and expensive.

As Dean said first gear is the only difference. They don't like to much of a hard time you will rip the gear stick thread out the top of the gearbox, or break the selector fork. They also hard on the seal on the selector shaft as they are all well worn. there are different versions of the output housing on other model cars Dale

Images and videos need to be hosted elsewhere and linked into your posts to show here. This is the same policy for everyone and has been from the beginning. It keeps our footprint down and therefore the costs involved in hosting the forum to a minimum. For mobile use, the tapatalk app is the easiest way to upload photos. I use an old version of the app which has no daily limits on posting etc, downside is I get no notifications but that doesn't matter much to me. For video, use YouTube to upload then post the link in your thread to share. You can also use other sites like imgur to host photos. There is a thread showing how to do this on the forum (look at Dean's signature for link)

SuperCheap used to sell it, not sure how much, or if they still do....

global trim is the only place doing that style as i am aware, once the shine has gone thats it. nature of the beast.

This is the correct D shape bumper trim for XD ZJ ZK FC FD ZL FE front bumpers that I got from global trim. I don't really want to spend $80 again if it's gonna go dull & develop cracks again. But if anyone knows how to bring the shine back that would be awesome.

bumper trim? if it's anything like the junk i bought for My window surrounds, it didn't last more than a few years. i'd try a different brand if buying it again. its' just plastic isn't it?

assume you are talking about the trim around the light and grill, have you tried some metal polish. Dale

hey Dean, Thanks for the great info. It's going to be mainly a cruise car but I would like to do the odd track day at Queensland Raceway and Lakeside so I would like to upgrade at least the pad and disc setup if not go a little larger.

After a slight mishap with a concrete drain I've fucked up a rim with brand new tyre and my alignment so after crab walking it home I'm firing up the lemonade stand and Ill be rebuilding the front end and trying to do a diy alignment. Just one of those days

The main reason ford went to the single rail around xb era is people were complaining about the top loader shifter getting stuck and hard to use,so a more user freindly box was needed,the single rail is a worthy contender to the top loader.