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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    Hi mate, The car belongs to my son and I reckon he was talkin to you as you said. I have a new O2 sensor kit that I was going to set up on my Falcon to tune tunnel ram carbs , We intend to weld a bung onto Cortina extractors and give it a go. I have had a breakthrough with the crossflow. I decided to play around with the carb tune and change jet sizes. I went a full 5 sizes bigger on primaries to see if I could make something change. It did exactly that it made it much worse , it caused it to breakdown at 2200. Next I went back a heap of jet sizes on primaries from where I started and it improved the thing a whole heap. It is twice as responsive down low and revs straight past 4000 without a problem. it does still however play up a little higher up. Next I will fit a decent Tacho as Not sure how accurate Cortina one is , O2 sensor , and get some more jets to play with. thanks for all the good advice everyone.
  3. 3 points
    Thom

    TIMING CHAIN ISSUES

    if it has an au timing gear, put the engine on tdc no 1 (use a bit of wire down the spark plug hole to find tdc don't trust the balancer is correct), on the timing gear you will see a line on one side and a dot on the other line the line up parallel with the rocker rail on the drivers side of the car, if it's an e series gear it will just have a line and no dot, it its e an series gear line it up with the rocker rail on the passenger side of the head, make sure you turn the engine over at least twice with a ratchet or breaker bar before you hit the starter just in case something is still out of whack, you don't want to break any valves or rocker gear
  4. 2 points
    gerg

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

    The 460 would be tight, it does slot into XA onwards like it was made for it (apparently) but earlier falcs... Not sure. I hear a lot that the 347 is not a great long-term build, they tend to get exessive side thrust (from the short rod) and ring wear, start drinking oil, etc. Ford Aus made it work sweet with the TE/TS 50 series, but they had to custom make all the bits locally because they sussed out the imported stroker kits before that and had some catastrophic failures during their durability testing. In the words of one Tickford boffin: "they were rubbish" 331 is a 3.25" stroke on a +0.040 bore, much more liveable. Pretty close to Chev's 327, which many smallblock fans say was the sweetest of them all. However your 289 block will be a tad shorter in the bore than a 302, which has a small protruding lip at the bottom of each bore to allow for the piston coming further down. I don't know if it would be a problem but I can't see it being too much of a difference. Might need to research that one. You will need some decent head flow to support the extra displacement. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. 2 points
    Pauly

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

    ignore the holden in the foreground.
  6. 2 points
    Pauly

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

  7. 2 points
    Pauly

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

  8. 2 points
    Imperial or big is 7/16th unf from memory
  9. 2 points
    NZXD

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    The P on gt40p heads stands for plug angle, I originally had gt40p heads on my AU spec 5.0 in my XD, dummy fitted hurricane 4-1 headers and with 90 degree (from memory) spark plug boots it all cleared. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 2 points
    BGDAV

    1972 Escort Panelvan

    i know quality when i see it
  11. 2 points
    Thom

    XY Column Manual to Single Rail

    you need an xf t5 bellhousing, it will bolt straight on to your 250, but they are cable clutch, chevy s10 has the shifter further forward than any of the other t5's
  12. 2 points
    SPArKy_Dave

    TIMING CHAIN ISSUES

    I'd be surprised if the dizzy, was the cause of the issue. It's just a hall effect sensor/TFI, with E-series, they pretty much operate independently of the ECU. (with the exception of EF's, and AU onwards) The ECU has control of the SPOUT wire, which retards timing by about 10degrees, when de-energised I believe. The SPOUT wire can be disconnected on USA made EEC vehicles, to set the timing. On our Aussie EEC vehicles, they only allow an electronic disconnection via putting the ECU into diagnostic mode, to set timing. From memory, XH/EL's need a 0 degrees BTDC base timing setting. The EA-ED's need 10 degrees BTDC. (in diag mode - ie, SPOUT disconnected)
  13. 2 points
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Sorry bear, yeah there's a bit to get through. I do tend to go into detail [emoji23] Finally got the shit back in the horse and running today, still ticks a bit but I found something really silly that was making it run rough: I had the canister purge connected straight to vacuum. As I've never taken much notice of where it's supposed to go on the carby, I just guessed. The motor didn't like this and the extra fuel vapours made it run like a hairy goat. Fouled bloody all 8 plugs! So swapped them out for some temporary ones, and now she purrs. But still, after all that buggerising around with shims, etc, it has a valvetrain tick. Maybe one of the lifters is a bit gummed. There was a bit of sludge building up as I mentioned, so an oil change may help. As for rocker geometry... The whole time I just used stock rockers so whatever the factory geometry was, that's what it had. I think the failures were from not using an oil with enough zinc in it. First cam failure, I didn't use break-in additive, failed after a couple thousand ks. Second time, it did about 70,000 ks. I was using a modern, low-zinc oil with Liqui-Moly when it failed. Never again... That shit is no substitute for Zinc. Lesson learnt. But funny you mentioned geometry, because I think these rockers are a bit different from clevo ones. These were sent down by my brother as he doesn't need them right now, were bought as a set of 12 for his crossy. I found out by their part number, and the fact that they came with metric pedestal bolts, that they are actually for a 3.8 Essex (Canada) V6. Now on mine, the pushrods that go through the drillings in the heads have been touching a bit, which could mean that despite them being 1.73 like a clevo, the geometry could be slightly different. I'm not too botheredby it. I have 4 more to get and the engine will have a full set. I'm currently running 8 down one side, and 4 on the inlets down the other, stockers on the exhausts. Wacky but whatever, still runs nice. Oh and to make sure all of the rocker bolts don't bottom out, I used a spring washer under each one, plus the shim, should have all of them spaced back out of their holes by a couple of turns. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
    bear351c

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Far out, bit of info in those last posts. Well done on your honesty. The washer spacers work fine. Make sure you blow all the oil out the blind holes in the pedestals. Happy to hear it's not chewed another bumpstick, do ya reckon the rocker geometry was responsible for the earlier failures.??
  15. 2 points
    Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Wow @gerg looks like you caught that in the nick of time. Good work on figuring out the shims, that'll definitely set you up nicely. For the aircraft, it was a Gardan Minicab built in 1969 and powered by a 1940 model Continental A65-8; an air-cooled 170ci flat four for non aircraftians. It had twin Bendix magnetos and no starter, so I had to hand prop it. Because it was a low winger I stood in front of the prop. Generally started second or third flip, stupidly satisfying!
  16. 2 points
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Well I did the povvo version on one of them so far, got an 8mm flat washer that looked about right (my guess about 0.060), ground flats on each side and chucked it under one of the pedestals. Turned out to be spot-on. Now with the scorpions, preload was exactly as I measured with the checker: around 2/3 of a turn. So all I have to do is carve up 15 more washers to suit the rest. I think I know where the excess preload had come from. Just how much has come off the heads is anyone's guess, but I got 0.025 shaved when I got them done, and had been skimmed before that when the engine was done up. So there was anywhere between 30 and 40 thou extra preload over factory. When bolting on the stock rockers, they were pretty worn, so the additional preload would have been taken up by the slop in the rocker pivots. The result was normal preload with worn rockers. Then I go putting on some nice shiny new rollers, and suddenly there is tons of preload, my guess was between 1-1/2 to 2 turns (hard to guess as the lifters kept self-priming when trying to determine preload), in which case is way too much. I think possibly with that much preload, the lifters weren't priming properly, causing noise and clearance issues. Thankfully, I now know that the cam is ok. I pulled the lifters out of one side so far and all are nicely bedded without signs of undue wear. All of them looked pretty much like this one: A non-shimmed then a shimmed pedestal: Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  17. 2 points
    Mate this one's a deusie... As I was reading each thing you tried, I would think of another thing and you'd already tried that too. You say "breaking down" as if it feels like coil breakdown. Maybe instead of continuing throwing nice expensive parts at it, you could just book a bit of dyno time with someone who knows carbies. You can load up the engine and watch what the ignition is doing on an oscilloscope and/or timing light, also AFRs will tell how the carby is tuned. Often, carby problems are ignition problems. Being a mechanic myself, am no fan of paying someone else to spin spanners on my old jalopies, but sometimes you just need someone with the right gear to get to the heart of the matter. How have you got the MSD hooked up? They want a direct supply to and from the battery, not from your key switch. At peak output, they do draw quite a few amps. Plug gaps aren't anywhere near as fussy with MSD. It generally fires them no matter how fouled or worn they are, so you can pretty much rule that issue out. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  18. 1 point
    slydog

    Crossy build- am I on the right track

    That is clevo gear as discribed... Needs clearanced block,BBF lifters,BBC pushrods,custom guide plates and BBC mark 5 screw in studs with clevo,bbf or even BBC rockers.
  19. 1 point
    slydog

    Crossy build- am I on the right track

    Hyd lifters are heavier and need more spring to control which means single groove valves and 10degree locks and retainers on machined pads as no one does that hardware in a xflow spring size.
  20. 1 point
    Next up, colour coded the front bumper. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    bear351c

    TIMING CHAIN ISSUES

    Wow....... definitely sounds like your timing is out. If you buy a new kit, it should come with new gears and chain. Replace the lot. Can't help you with the hybrid side of things. Maybe @Thom ?
  22. 1 point
    bear351c

    ZL or XF front disc pad replacement.

    No probs, glad it helped.
  23. 1 point
    EgoXF

    ZL or XF front disc pad replacement.

    Great article bear, i took my calipers off a year ago and couldn't remember which side the bleeder went on so this helped a lot haha. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    CHESTNUTXE

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    all this talk of roller cams makes me want to grab the low km AU 5.0L with gt40 heads at the wreckers.
  25. 1 point
    steve mcqueen

    Thom's 4.0l thread

    I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500. Thom, you the man
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