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Cover whire wheeled, camshaft and timing set out. This thing definitely had love in the distant past - the camshaft is a Crane grind (230@50 / 530 lift) and all the cam bearings are mint. The head gaskets came off dead flat and looking like they're out of a packet. The more I strip stuff off this the better it gets. Figners crossed for the crank and rods. Ah yeah, I got the heads back as well. Hot tanked, acid bathed, hardened seats all round with a mild throat cut plus a valve job, new seals & mild performance springs. Nice.

gli and futura Sedans went to 3.08 as a standard ratio from eb to au, fairmonts and fairlane were 3.23 standard, xr6 and 6 cylinder fairmont ghia were 3.45's xr8 (and 5.0l in general) had 3.23 open diffs until el then xr8 came standard with 3.45, but most ratios were optional and available in all models

Ok, was just in the garage tinkering. Now first up let's get this 100% correct. When replacing the ecu in an EA-ED+XG with an EL ecu, the CORRECT timing is TDC or 0 degrees. With or without j3, it is a FACT. End of story. You can see this easily by looking at the timing at idle. If you left your timing at 10btdc as per EA-ED+XG and put the EL ecu in, with or without j3 chip, you are running 10 degrees too advanced through the entire rev range. If you have a digital timing light you will see the idle timing is around 30btdc. It should be in the 15-20btdc range. I searched high and low for this answer and it was right in front of me. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise and if you want to safely run your motor on EA-ED+XG with an EL ecu. TDC as base timing. Thanks to my Equus digital tach advance timing light for confirming my theory. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more. Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china.

Nah mate, perfect. The white does look a bit stark though. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Here we go. Heavy buggers to fit but they're on. Not too much? I think they're just about enough without looking stupid.

Ok guys, Outback Jack here. Now a few of you guys have converted your earlier EA-ED and XG's to an EL ecu and maybe a j3 chip tune as well. Now when I first did mine, I was told to leave the timing as per Standard XG timing, which is 10 BTDC. Later I was told 0 degrees or TDC as per EL ecu. Now we all know that EA-ED and XG run 10BTDC and there is a TDC timing mark and a IGN mark which is 10BTDC and where you set the timing in base timing mode. On an EL there is only TDC timing mark or 0 degrees BTDC which is where you set the base timing. I just wanted to know from other people on here, where have you set your base timing after an EL ecu conversion? With or without j3. I am being told that EA-ED and XG are exactly the same base timing as EL. Which is not right. To my logic 0 degrees or TDC would be the Base timing required as the motors are basically the same but the ECU has been changed and thus changing the base timing to suit is required. Also that by running the standard EA-ED and XG base timing of 10BTDC would mean the timing is +10 degrees through the whole timing curve as EL has a base timing of 0 or TDC. Interested in what others have done and which timing is correct in this situation. Cheers! Jack. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah probably. I did remember he said they weren't made in China though, so hey who knows. I'll find that receipt haha. Meantime, the latest efforts are focussed on the engine. I got her torn down well, next step is removing her for the bearing, ring and hone job she surely needs. She's dirty inside but is sporting a double row timing chain so there's been some love there at some point. A big plus is that nothing on this engine seems seized, apart from that one rocker retaining bolt. I'm pretty happy with how its going at this point. - boingk

For Efi Falcons on LPG, its standard fare for the fuel pump to be running the whole time, that's why they always used to say you have to keep a minimum of 1/4 tanks of petrol so the pump doesn't burn out, when switching between gas and petrol all the switch does is turn the injectors on and off and turn the lpg lockoff on the opposite position, they are wired this way so that LPG and petrol can be switched instantly without having to wait for the fuel rail to be refilled if you haven't run on petrol for a long stint

with My XG, i am fairly sure the injectors were cut but the pump still ran.. LPG conversions could do it a few ways i think

Ok, I had a look at the spark maps in the.bin file for ED/XG or 3DAC and at 600rpm it is at 14BTDC. I had a look in the .bin file for EL XR6 or 6TAC and at 600rpm it is at 14BTDC. So logically at around idle of 700-750rpm the timing should be around 15-18BTDC max. I have a digital timing light, so I can idle the ute with base timing set at 10btdc, which it is now...and if the idle timing is around 15-18btdc, then it's all good. If it is higher by roughly 10 degrees or around 22-30btdc , then the base timing is wrong and needs to be set at TDC. The EL ecu wants to see TDC as its base timing. It ASSUMES this is correct. The timing is controlled off the ecu, BUT only from the reference point of the base timing. So it can't actually see what the base timing is, it can only add and subtract from the initial or base timing based on all its inputs. See the problem is EL models have a knock sensor and the ecu will pull timing if detonation is detected. EA-ED and XG don't have a knock sensor so the base timing is CRITICAL., when running an EL ecu. I checked the j3 tune and they get around this by limiting timing to 50btdc. The EL stock tune pulls timing gradually depending on knock input. I'm pretty sure tomorrow I will find it is TDC that is the correct way to set timing on EA-ED and XG running an EL ecu. I am dissapointed that so called tuning experts.... 1. Don't know base timing on EA-ED+XG is 10btdc and that EL base timing of TDC ,IS different.....by 10 degrees. 2. That running 10 degrees too advanced on an EA-ED+XG while running an EL ecu is dangerous, due to there being no knock sensor to pull timing due to detonation. If the limiting for timing is 50btdc......then add 10 degrees to that and your at 60btdc before timing is retarded. Food for thought. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

Yeah Dave EL harmonic balancer is different. Mark is off to the Right to line up with marker off to right for TDC marker on EL timing cover. But TDC is TDC regardless of where the markers are. I just helped a guy awhile back where someone had put an EL timing cover on an ED or XG motor and he couldn't get it running. Still had an ED/XG balancer, so it was a bit of a head fark. LolI told him the 10BTDC mark or IGN on the motor was roughly at 12 o'clock, and he sorted it from there. But lining the ED/XG balancer mark up with an EL timing cover makes it horribly retarded. I just wanted to know if it was supposed to be 10BTDC or TDC on my XG motor with EL ecu so when I get to tuning I know if I'm advanced running 10BTDC base timing or that's spot on. If it is supposed to be at TDC or 0degrees, then I would be 10 degrees advanced and have to take that into account when tuning. Don't worry I have been asking this question for a month at t.i. performance and can't get a straight answer. First time I asked it was keep XG 10BTDC. Next time I asked it was TDC like EL. Then it was ' as long as it doesn't ping'. Then..... They reakon the base timing of EA-ED and EL are exactly the same. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

And just to back up what gregaust said.......listen to the turbo yoda's explanation.

If you know what it came out of, that would give some clue. Sedans still had 2.92, wagons 3.23, utes 3.27, XR sedan I dunno maybe 3.27, XR ute 3.45? Pop the hat off,will only take 10 min max, and the ratio will be etched on the crownwheel. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Not sure mate, but if there's one thing I've learnt is to not trust anything anymore - lots of parts interchange and anyone could have done so in the past. Jack a rear wheel up so it can turn freely. With the handbrake off and the wheel chocked, put the car in neutral and turn that wheel one full turn. Have someone look underneath at the tailshaft and record how many turns it does. It helps if you put a mark on it first. The number of turns is your diff ratio, eg 3 turns will be a 2.92 or 3.08, 2.7 turns a 2.72, 3 and a quarter a 3.23 and so on. - boingk

Don't think there would be any issue there. You'll probably lose about 15hp on top vs a similar spec 289 but whos counting? Only other thing would be keeping compression up with available heads.

There should be no issue with that except that there's not much point. Stroke is free torque. The later 50oz balance cranks are lighter too (vs 28oz), as they have less internal counter-weighting and more external. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

The wheels are probably King or Dynamic. They look like 4x4 or boat trailer wheels but punched in the large F-series stud pattern. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Hi mate, no lift kit. These things are pretty tall stright from factory. By the mid 70's Ford was the only manufacturer making 4x4 pickups without a dedicated chassis for them - its just a factory lifted 2wd basically. No idea mate. I will find the receipt and let you know if you want. Also I went and got the nice chrome bumper old mate promised me. Very happy to have this, they're starting to become hard to find and bring decent money.

Xg and xh had distributors, the utes missed out on coil packs until au

Didn't think the fuel pump would run while you're on Gas? You sure it's not a uni joint, or wheel bearing etc..?

Where do you get hoppers from, cant find a supplier or price list?

Wagon is the go then. You'll obviously have to swap gears out if going into a sedan. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Depends on which 289 block, some 289 blocks the bottom of the bore that protrudes into the crankcase is shorter than in a 302 block, those blocks with the shorter bores putting a 302 crank in them is a bad idea let alone a 331 crank