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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Mr Polson

    How to find manufacture date of battery

    Any battery made in Australia is a century battery. No other company manufactures batteries here
  2. 3 points
    NZXD

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    And a 255 (3.68 bore) 260 (3.8 bore) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    Boingk

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    Just make a nice streetable 302. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/28898-400-hp-302-small-block/
  4. 2 points
    Boingk

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I'll be on the Clevo bandwagon again, my XF is off to the scrappers and the engine has a new home in a bloke's speedboat. Here's to lockdown projects!
  5. 2 points
    thankyou to all who responded and thanks Mr Polson for your input this input is what makes this site great now as both batteries are starting to get a bit old bit like me lol I will replace both before I start to wander off. still have to do some mods to the old jap to improve my comfort an self containment yet cheers Demmo
  6. 2 points
    Fun fact - the current range of FORD Motorcraft batteries, are also made by Century. (just with Motorcraft stickers)
  7. 2 points
    hendrixhc

    New Ute

    I prefer the look of the XG unless the XH is an XR6 or 8. Either way they are both equally as nice to drive.
  8. 2 points
    FORD_MAN

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    block only needs a bit of notching, I could clearance it with a burr, or just get it milled it while machining the rest of the engine, 347W also saw this while I looked up stroker clearance
  9. 2 points
    gerg

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    The first Windsor blocks (221/260/289) can theoretically be stroked with the 2M crank from the 302 but the pistons will stick out the bottom of the bores slightly at BDC. Hardly worth worrying about that minor issue but also hardly worth bothering with as Thom said, pre-65 blocks are 5-bolt and rare as anyway. On the subject of the 255, they only made them for 2 miserable years in the 80s (I think 81-82) then they gave up on that dead-end. I think they were good for something like 120 HP. But GM were doing the same thing with the SBC so Ford can't cop too much flak from it. This short production run makes them extremely rare, and pretty much irrelevant now. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  10. 2 points
    Thom

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    255 was a smog era us engine, I'd be surprised if there was any over here, apparently there's not a lot of parts interchangeability with regular 8.2 deck Windsors, but I've only ever read about those
  11. 2 points
    gerg

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    The 255 has a 3" stroke like the 302 but the crank is a lot lighter, the crank pins are semi-hollow and the counterweights are smaller. Racers in speedway stock classes used to hunt around wreckers for these cranks because they had a lower rotating mass. They could break more easily too but racing is about breaking stuff to win Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  12. 2 points
    Thom

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    221 260 and 289 all share the same stroke, the biggest problem with 221's and 260's is the small bore size doesn't let you get a decent size valve without being shrouded/running into the bore, the other problem with 221's and 260's is most them are of the 5 bolt bellhousing variety
  13. 2 points
    gerg

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    No better than a 289 in theory, both have same stroke. 221 has tiny pistons, sort of like what a 253 is to a 308 Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  14. 2 points
    NZXD

    WINDSOR SMALLBLOCK TALK

    Same 2.87 inch stroke as the 289 but with a 3.5 inch bore...better to start with the 289. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 2 points
    CHESTNUTXE

    Rear seal

    knox it out with a small punch,then a tad of sealant to fill the tiny hole and thats it
  16. 2 points
    gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I think you'd put on it whatever the LS crowd uses on their conversions... Plenty of different turbos kicking around and yeah, I'd go reversed manifolds into a big single mounted on the passenger side (opposite the battery) to simplify plumbing. You could go underfloor but that has its own issues of drain back, etc and ground clearance on a Falcon would be a hassle. That would be a hoot but the cost will go way beyond just the conversion. Even with a conservative amount of boost, you'd be knocking on the door of 600hp. I reckon you'd pop the borgy diff, even if it is a 28-spline 4-pinion. I think a built 9" would have to happen. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  17. 2 points
    FORD_MAN

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I'd go turbo & make more power then either supercharger kit
  18. 2 points
    bear351c

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Just for pure porn value, the 6/71 sticking out of the bonnet. Better value power, the twins.
  19. 2 points
    In my experience, the oil just gets that smell about it (to an extent), especially if doing short trips and in winter. This is due to the fuel not vapourising properly in the cold weather in a cold engine, causing the fuel to stick to the bores and wash down into the oil below the pistons. Carby cars run a bit richer and can go out of tune over time, so maybe the carby needs looking at. If you take it on a good high-speed run (I'm talking a few hundred km), the oil level might drop a bit. That's the fuel evaporating out of it (not the engine suddenly "using oil" as many seem to think). Best way to tell if the oil is being diluted excessively is to rub a bit between your fingers. If it feels slimy and smooth, then it's doing its job. If you can feel your fingerprints grinding as you rub them together, then the oil has thinned or broken down, and should be replaced. Yes mechanical fuel pumps can fail in the diaphragm and pump fuel into the sump, but this doesn't happen very often. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  20. 2 points
    bear351c

    Cleveland lifters

    Yeah, basically... think they also had screw in studs for the rocker gear, and screw in welsh plugs (core plugs) on the blocks.
  21. 2 points
    bear351c

    Cleveland lifters

    Cool. Have a look at the Crow or Crane catalogue, should be able to get one here in Oz. Comp, Lunati, Isky etc will prob come from overseas (may be hard to get at the moment) Crow do a budget version cam/lifter/retainers called Megatork, I think, and Crane do theirs as Blue Racer. Same cam billet, just brown paper packaging. Make sure you look at the cam specs for rev range (like 1,500 to 4,500 rpm) diff ratio, etc.. You need to change springs and retainers with some higher lift cams.
  22. 2 points
    gerg

    Cleveland lifters

    I have experienced this exact failure in my 302C and that pressure variance (ie compression and no compression) is caused by the unevenly worn lifter rotating alternately to the high and low spots. When it hits the worn bit, the hydraulic plunger pumps up to take up the clearance. Then the lifter rotates around to the high spot and then is over-pumped, holding the valve open constantly. Hence no compression when that happens. I could hear this with my engine running; clack-clack-clack, then silence but missing on that cylinder. Then it bled back down, clack-clack again, and the cycle continues. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  23. 1 point
    Mr Polson

    How to find manufacture date of battery

    @Demmo is the battery gloss black or matte? If it's gloss it's a Century battery with Repco stickers, made in Australia. If it's matte, it's a Yuasa battery - owned and distributed by Century but made overseas.
  24. 1 point
    SPACK

    AU Series 3 Forte. Stalling

    Fuel pump, would be a start, change the fuel filter, clean the injectors..
  25. 1 point
    So I fucked up with assembly.... Installed the box, had to jack the engine up and tilt it sideways to get it past the extractors. Hooked everything up, started the engine, then my boy looked under it and said "daddy there's blood coming out"... Looked under, it's coming out of the sector shaft. I'd put the shaft pressure seal (the one above the Pitman Arm) in backwards, after deliberating on which way to do it. I have no exploded view or instructions and couldn't remember how it came out. I guess I had a 50% chance and I lost. I managed to pop the arm off, push the shaft up (after taking the top plate out) dig out the dust seal, remove the circlip and seal all with the box in place, which saved a shitload of work pissfarting around with jacking up the engine again, etc. The seal actually goes in with the "cup" section facing upwards toward the pressure side, with the oil pressure forcing the inner and outer lips to seal on their respective surfaces. The dust seal goes in backwards to the way a normal seal goes in: the lip goes facing inwards. If you put it in like you would normally with say an axle seal, the lip will run on the splines. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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