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No, do not use oil flush it will cause the same problems dumping kerosene in the sump would, the goal is to clean the engine gently and slowly, anything that rapidly speeds that process up is what causes problems, the only safe way to clean an engine fast is to dissemble it

Thanks. I won't chase it too much longer & will probably just leave it to the painter. Are looking forward to the minor restoration & interior reupholstered

Xe and xf stock exhaust centre section is supposed to be 2 inch for all models, with carby engines having a 1.75inch tail pipes and efi crossflows having a 2 inch tail pipe, 2.25 works really well for stock to mild crossflows if you want a little bit of noise without it getting annoying

Performance Ignition Services in Nunawading Vic, is the only place which has the proper ones brand new. Hunting idle, could just be a vacuum leak, a slightly sticking IAC valve, OR as you've suggested - unsteady timing.

I picked the car up this morning and spent this afternoon putting it back together. So what is next? I can go back to doing what I was doing before this little hiccup. The car needs a good clean inside and out after being in the panel shop. I have new spark plugs and points for the ignition system, need to get new ignition leads. All of that stuff is still off the old 1300. It desperately needs a new air cleaner, looking to run a K&N weber air filter, just have to find one that fits. Its then the wheels. Before all this happened, i was getting the 13 x 6 steelies fitted. I need extended studs to take the 5mm spacers, then get the wheels blasted and powder coated. I cant wait to get them on the car. It will definitely be a different look for it. The more i drive the car on the 15s, the more i realise how, not up to the task those tyres are. They are getting on for 10 years old for starts, but also they are eco tyres due to the unique size. With the Escort having a fair bit more grunt, even on dry roads, and even from a rolling start, it will spin the back tyres. Like today, mid intersection, (turning right), 2nd gear, and started accelerating out of the intersection, granted i put the foot into it get going, and i felt the back started to step out. I guess with the old 1300, i could barely break traction, so those tyres didn't bother me. Now, well yeah they don't hold on at all with the 1660. my 13" tyres, are a much better tyre, semi performance tyre. I think I'm losing out on general grip, but also handling because of those tyres on the 15s. so I can't wait to get the 13" steelies done, and on the car with some decent tyres.

Using a 6 cylinder t5 will mean you have to get a crs bellhousing as the 6 cylinder t5 has a different length input shaft to a v8 one, the diff will be fine and the t5 will hold up reasonably well as long as you don't abuse it ( when I was a p plater I broke many of them with a warmed up 4.0l but they were pretty well abused)

i would say generally yes, the diffs are strong (when not worn out) and the T5 in good condition are also strong. i'd consider getting it checked and new bearings fitted if in the budget, or finding a spare in advance, they are getting old now, the newest being 25yrs old. naturally if you are abusing them anything is breakable.

We've got good news all round, the sludge problem isn't as bad as I thought with a couple of flushes with engine oil while running the pump by hand got everything visibly cleanish (no visible sludge or obstructions but everything is still kinda black). The cam bearings look pretty shitty but no deep scratches in them so I drowned the cam and lifters in assembly lube and put them in and everything is rotating smoothly. I'm still waiting on a timing chain and balancer but after that I'm putting everything back together.

Hi all after nearly 4 weeks of head fucks with no spark issues. The xf is running like a old clock . Step 1 when that new distributor turns up on the door step or over the counter. Check the wiring on the icm for 1 lack of heat transfer paste 2 check for loose connection on the module. Because if you dont I can personally say you will be putting your head under the bonnet in 3 weeks fact .

EDIT** see if you can check if theres' wires in the intermittent wiper relay slot in the area behind the fuse cover but to the left of the steering column, beside the hand brake lever. if there's wires there, you might be able to just plug in a relay from ghia or fairlane etc and the XE wiper switch. when i tried to do do this with My Dads XE it didn't have the wires in the loom for the relay. so it wasn't just a matter of plugging in the relay and adding the switch (from an XE S pack etc) you can get a WIPER DELAY KIT (here's like a bunch of google results) universal kit, we bought one but never got around to fitting it, possibly from JAYCAR ELECTRONICS. XF has a completely different wiper/blinker switch setup and plugs for starters, and with out the wiring in the dash you'd still be probing to tap into what's needed. if i was doing it now, i'd get a wiper delay kit, as some have a dial and you can adjust it for time, the XE/XF ones were wipe every 8 seconds from memory. you'd need to tap into a few wires, but it may not be that hard. (auto elec would likely still charge $200 minimum i bet)

The el is on the road and very reliable (The lady I bought it from didn't know jack shit about mechanical stuff so she had that thing looked over religiously, like she would stop driving it once it reached the oil change interval untill it had a service) and one of the xh's is roadworthy also. The other xh is in good nick mechanicaly but the trey is gone, if need be I could get a dodgy rwc and a tub liner but it's definitely on the bottom of the list. If I engine swap this thing it's either getting another Crossy or a v8

Safest way to clean it if there's no metal in the filter is to use a higher detergent oil (like a diesel oil) and do 4 or 5 sub 1500km oil changes, it won't make the engine spotless inside but it will clean gradually and shouldn't dislodge anything big enough to cause damage, flushing fresh oil through the engine before firing it up with the new cam won't hurt anything and is a pretty good idea, make sure you use plenty of assembly/ break in lube on the cam and lifters when you install them

Inox is the shit! I went at after letting it soak and out came the distributor and the camshaft and yep she's fucked. 3 of the lobes were completely round but the cam bearings and journals looked ok, granted not great but no gouging or scuffing from what I could see. I'm gonna give them a closer inspection before reassembly but all and all things are looking up!

Flushing the sludge/ metal from the cam & lifters without pulling the sump/ cylinder head to clean out all the oil galleries and oil pump/ pickup will most likely be a death sentence for that engine, you can guarantee you will loosen and flush a large percentage of the gunk in the engine, but that's not the problem, it's what gets left behind that is now free to roam the engine until finds a nice oil gallery or oil pump pick up or oil return to plug up and cut off the oil supply to that area of the engine. Also if metal has been through the engine the oil pump needs to be inspected as the rotors and oil pressure relief need to be inspected for damage and the pump replaced if they are Well shit. This is starting to sound like an expensive spiral. The question is now do I just send it and hope for the best or is it guaranteed to fail? It is worth mentioning I have a pair of xh's and an el on standby if my engine grenades but I don't want to put a new cam and timing chain into an engine that's got a 80% chance of death, I also noticed that the oil thats in it now doesn't look too glittery with no large chunks or shavings so I'm a tad hopeful but with how fucked up this cam is I'm just scared of where all that metal went. Imma crack the oil filter open and post some photos of the material to give you a good idea on what's going on with this engine

Flushing the sludge/ metal from the cam & lifters without pulling the sump/ cylinder head to clean out all the oil galleries and oil pump/ pickup will most likely be a death sentence for that engine, you can guarantee you will loosen and flush a large percentage of the gunk in the engine, but that's not the problem, it's what gets left behind that is now free to roam the engine until finds a nice oil gallery or oil pump pick up or oil return to plug up and cut off the oil supply to that area of the engine. Also if metal has been through the engine the oil pump needs to be inspected as the rotors and oil pressure relief need to be inspected for damage and the pump replaced if they are

Ummn my skill sets were outstanding today. First couple attempts & just thought I'd leave it. Few hour's later with some subtle encouragement from a colleague on messenger

I'd be inclined to cut and splice them to alter the angle they meet the rear edge. So you get the wider space between them but still have solid support. I don't know if that's an option within your skill set, it's just how I'd go about the problem.

The back cross member & X support structure seems the main support. Stopped myself from cutting into it yesterday,turned to custard they're pretty hard to replace over in NZ

Hey thanks so much for all your imput. I took door cards off today & had the previous door cards from last owner that had some subtle hints of purple in places. I'll probably check oldschool cars & posted on XF FANATICS. Also seen the firewall tags on the Australian factory XF's ,quite a big difference

Tags are a bit plain to the a standard plate a dean said, plates where near the shock tower not the firewall. NZ may had different or may just be someone mad up. that colour you would be better with colour match, to many variables for a a code mix.

IWIS or Romac (Rollmaster) usually do good chains. Crow brand is one of the above, in a crow cams packet.

Thanks alot. Here's couple photo's of my firewall tag. Most of the car in pretty good knick paint wise & are shortly getting the bonnet/ boot redone. Also doing full interior reupholstered;so taking door cards off could be a tell tale sign for sure. (not letting me upload photo's of the boot)

The cam I'm putting is a mid range grind(no clue on specifics) so a bit more then stock and according to the guy I'm getting it off it should have a slightly lumpy exhaust. I gotta get a full exhaust system after the one on it collapsed driving through some grass so I'm wondering if I'm the size upgrade will get any more power. If not I'll just get the new one made in the stock size.

if the cam is stock, keep the exhaust stock unless you just want NOISE, you won't get any performance gain from exhaust, as it's not a restriction with the stock engine

I have been waiting for this sticker for about a month gerg will love it 460 police interceptor [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji4]sic Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk