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just a small detail, but a bit of joy in this shitty lockdown, My switches for the Escort have been restored by a fellow RSOCV club member. this will just finish the interior off.

Reasons why you'd do this: - Cheap and easy to get (roughly $110 from Ripco trade) - Extra clearance to headers - Easier, lighter to fit/remove - Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty. Downsides: - You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new. - You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course) - Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed. - Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways). - You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8. Anyway.... Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8") Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one. Front view Roughed out with the hackasaurus (Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face). Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file: Top view: You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all. Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Header clearance Drag link/pitman arm Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Essentially in Australia, the identity of a vehicle is in the chassis. That's why when you create a hot rod from your Fargo truck and stick it on a hq ute chassis to get it low and loud, it is then registered as a rebodied hq ute. Technically you replaced every panel of the ute with "new" stuff but the law still sees it as a hq for paperwork reasons. Here's a scenario that might help you find out... Have a conversation with the authorities about a project that you are PLANNING to buy. It's a ford hard top that's had some parts cut out to fix other cars but it's mostly intact and is worth saving /rebuilding. Now the issue is, the radiator support panel has been removed at some stage and now the shell has no id numbers. because they're not available new, if I buy a second hand panel which will have another number stamped on it from the donor car, how will the car be identified and can it be registered? See what that gets for a response and if it's good news, unpick your panel and swap it out.

Found these closed chamber heads on marketplace and original price of $100 was dropped to $50 the description in picture looks pretty rust so i guess thats why no one wanted them but when i get there i see the rust was just gold metalic paint lol $50 bargin ,someone reco these some time ago and only need the action man clean up Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

I lapped em in anyway and did just one head today springs are rated to 540 lift and a nice upgrade for a mild cam without breaking the budget Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Well it worked ok now tape it up and i hope it comes out like the other one Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Wow these beefy 400 mounts are more than i expected they are mega h.d and thick i can also see a offset where it bolts up thats probly why i had so much trouble with my own trying to work it out on the last 400 into xf but well worth $280 you even get bolts for all i wasnt expecting that anyway lets bolt one up and chex it out Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

I may be barking up the wrong tree here, but I do remember e series being sensitive to engine temp vs tune, ( if i remember correctly this was covered a couple of years ago in outback jacks ute thread) you may have to change thermostat to get your engine temps up to 96° (i think that's what e series are supposed to run at from memory) if its not running up to temp properly as far as the ecu is concerned it may only be adjusting the cold start table and throwing it off

Umm no it wasn't look up the (petrol) 7.3lt ''Godzilla" used in US F trucks, thats a engine I'd like in my XE ute, Harrop recently made 1000hp at Dandy engines with a stock engine, GT350 throttle body & a supercharger kit they're developing, also seen 750hp N/A, ?1340hp? can't remember turbo/supercharged. stock is 450ft/lb 430hp, add turbo

I have blue & black closed chamber heads, some time might see if neighbor still has his flow bench & compare, but I'd say wound be minimal flow stock. Sean/Clevo120Y flowed a 2V closed chamber few years back I was looking at 351C or 400M vs 393/408C awhile ago figured similar, may as well go stroker,

I can see a couple of Scoobies in the ashtray, mate....

Valves ect came out easy and rubber seals were like new i doubt these heads have seen much work at all Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

Work has ground to a halt as i havent found another 400 block to build the stock engine and sell it,and i dont have a 351c crank to start building the std bore clevo,i have all new parts to go on them ,351c crank is very hard to find lately i even considerd vuying a $1800 393 stroker kit from usa cause it comes with new crank rods n pistons by the time ya find a crank and have it machined there goes $500 then buy new pistons n rings $500 then buy and get rods reco probly 300 and ya already around 1500 Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

The 400 is back and look how beefy its stance is,olm8 did a good job on the 1 piece rear main seal Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

@CHESTNUTXE there was also the possibility at these pistons (above) with 400M rods bushed, just saw a STD set on US ebay at $133.55usd From memory THOM also had EFi on his Customline's Clevo with downdraft ITB's. & Back when I was looking at Holley's Terminator X EFi Kit for 5.0 Windsor, I figured it would run a Clevo if you used a Holley Dual Sync dissy & had a intake modified to fit injectors.

Yeah, they're sh!t. Wish I had done mine on the XB. Can't believe companies like Felpro still hock that stuff.

Painted and clear coat its come up nice Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd suggest buying an original panel from the states and call the thing a Yankee Tudor

Or grandpa's axe... It's had 4 handles and 3 heads, but it's still the same axe.... "They don't make em like they used to" [emoji23] But seriously, what's in a number anyway? The authorities don't really care as long as their criteria is met, so whatever it takes to get the old girl rolling again, I say do it. These cars were made to last a dozen or so years so the manufacturer's weren't too concerned about long-term identification. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yeah he does awesome work. I am considering asking him if he is willing to do XF/ZL/FE door switches when I see him next. I still have 1 more to give him, because for some reason i left it in the car. its the dash light dimmer wheel/switch. so ill have to get him to that at a later date.

wow they are amazing!

I worked out the casting dates its 1 day apart from each other 22D2 and 21D2 now lets get olm8 to tank em Sent from my SM-G610Y using Tapatalk

I would be interested in seeing down the throat of one as I clearly remember how bad my blue 2Vs were before I gave them some love Yeah me too. I have a feeling that early Aussie 2Vs were shockers, for the size of the ports they don't deliver ... They're only marginally better than a 351 Wheezor. I remember reading something like 180cfm on them whereas US 2Vs go up around 200. That's around 40hp difference when calculated out. I think it's just in the way the throat is cut in them, and the short turn is horrible. Also the casting roughness and daggy parting lines were shitty down the port. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I think it pays off in the end... If I had my time over I would've yoinked the hypatec rebuilder pistons for a decent set of zero deck flat tops. 17 down the hole is a lot on a little 302 Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk