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  1. 9 likes
    Time for a wee update! I have started tackling one of the more involved jobs, the headers. I'm mostly done with the drivers side, and here is what we've ended up with. I started by cutting all four pipes most of the way through, leaving a sliver on the bottom half of each, allowing me to tuck the pipes in closer to the block and clear the strut towers. It became immediately apparent I was going to need to modify the longest pipe to tuck even closer still towards the block. Also apparent was the need to cut off the curved collector piece on the other end and spin it around, as it ended up pointing straight towards the drivetrain. One major thing I was aiming for was to end up with headers stubby enough that we could simply unbolt the exhaust from them and be able to pull the motor out without the need to remove them. One part of this was cutting about half of the collector/reducer section off, just ahead of the O2 sensor bung, pushing the new two bolt flange forward enough to clear the steering components. To be fair it actually doesn't look like it would be TOO much of a nightmare to install/remove them with the motor in place but it's still gonna be awesome to be able to leave them on regardless. Seen here is the pipe that use to run dead straight from exhaust port to collector. It is a slight challenge to weld a pipe that is almost touching another like this, but there are tricks around this, it isn't gonna be a big deal thankfully. And finally, here is the first of eight slivers I have to make from scratch to finish in the job. I simple made a paper template that would fill the hole, cut it out of 1.5mm sheet metal, and shaped it to fit by hand using a vice, hammer, and various round things found in my garage that were the right size. Eight of these will be a boring pain in my ass but the end result will work great. For the time being, at least, re-purposing the factory headers will save hundreds of bucks and dozens of hours from not having to start from absolute scratch. I think if we are ever to make new, 'full length' headers from scratch, I will be looking at steering rack conversion options as the factory steering box and its arms severely limit the space full length headers would have to squeeze through. Full length headers on a Boss powered XA can and have been done before without a rack conversion but required a compromise on the routing of the pipes. There will be many more detailed pics of the headers actually in place coming in the next couple of days. I finished the gearbox mount enough that the drive train is now completely bolted in but got sick of that job and decided to move on to the headers and will finish the gearbox mount later when I can be fucked getting back to it
  2. 7 likes
    Pretty stoaked with the Mrs fg drove it to dubbo from romsey today without a single fuel stop it did 65.2 liters for 809.4 ks, or 7.7liters per 100ks
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    Itโ€™s ok lads, I got a text from Jack last night saying that heโ€™s doing ok. He just needs a bit of time out for a while. If I had to live in a small town of meth heads I reckon it would wear me down too.
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    Some of the shit brought to Pete was bat shit crazy. One of the local truck racers wanted his supercharged, twin turbo, Detroit Diesel power houses re-piped. I THINK it was a v8, and I can't recall the capacity, but the bloody thing was brought to us on a freaken trailer and barely fit in the door. Oh yeah, and the motor originated from a damn tank, but belonged in an old Bedford converted from a dirty old workhorse into a track hack! So yeah, that one was interesting to say the least. Here was my first major job, and my first cage. Its a Suzuki Cuppacino, and don't let its looks fool you, its a front engined, rear wheel drive, three cylinder, turbo, 800kg go cart, from factory! You would think this thing would be easy to cage as a convertible, but it actually has a four piece roof requiring us to build the cage around the roofs release clips, and needed the cage tucked up every millimeter possible as the thing is bloody tiny and had no head room. Fitment is key. For those customers who's car you are caging are their babies, its that extra 10% of attention to detail that makes them want to come back time and time again. Nothing irks me more about my drift car, built years ago by who knows who, that it's cage's front lateral bars are a million miles away from the a-pillars. Or 30-second hack saw jobs on the dash. Yes yes, many people don't care about such things on their track hacks, which is fine and dandy, but you cant hack massive chunks out of a customers car when half an hour fettling away with a die grinder leaves the dash snug as fuck.
  5. 6 likes
    I put the rear piece on today and I'm stoked! Just need to adjust the bumpers now. Also added a photo of the shine!! Haha Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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    Update: The new engine is in and running , I've done about 100ks in it with the new engine and it's looking good , only problem is I've maxed out the single converter im running ATM so i can't really get into yet .. so next on the list is redo all the gas lines and hook up the second converter . I've also finished my new wheels , I brought the rears allready made and told they would fit , but they didn't , so I've had the offset altered and I sandblasted and painted them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    i bought a pair of shoes off a drug dealer and they were laced with something cause all day i was tripping .
  9. 6 likes
    Mini update! We were worried the BA shifter was gonna be too tall to fit nicely in the console, turns out it just manages to fit mint We will certainly try to get the front 5mm higher but the firm motor mounts should mean there is just enough tolerance to not rub. As usual, 1000 more photos will come of exactly what fabrication I've done under here. Dad was shitting himself when I began chopping up the console but we really needed to make the BA shifter work to retain the tiptronic function of the shifter. Ye of little faith!
  10. 5 likes
    Ok guys let's get jack back on here we all love reading his thread hearing about his outback and the reno's on the house or the war with the neighbor, but all in all he is a top guy with lots of info so let's get jack back on ozfalcons Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  11. 5 likes
    finally a crate engine that's affordable
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    Sounds like a good solution! Keep things simple huh If anyone has been wondering why updates have slowed, its because I have scored a job! Since before the start of this thread I've been a jobless bum, waiting to find a job I would love to go to every week instead of choosing any old job just to pay the bills. I'm now working in a rather large workshop that primarily specializes in American classics, although they are happy to take on any car anyone brings in. They do a little bit of everything, and obviously I've been employed there as a fabricator, all of my fabrication tools have been dragged there with me intending to take the odd tool back home here and there as I need them. I'm hoping to smash out the majority of the chassis work on the XA over the next week, especially this weekend. Tonight's mission is to complete the shifter mount, and Sundays mission is to finalize the headers and start the tower notches. The bottom of the BA shifter has ended up just a few mill above the factory tunnel. Seen here is a slice of tunnel I've cut out to give the top of the slush box more clearance. And seen here is a bit of old exhaust I've re-purposed as a hump. The flat sheet metal surrounding it is a flange that will allow me to seal the cabin from the elements by sandwiching a gasket of some description under it. Looks pretty oddball at the moment, but it will end up looking like a fancy wee unit I'm sure. The reason I have made the hump so large is to allow me to route the BA shifter cable through it easily. I'm happy enough with how it looks cosmetically because all of this will be hidden under the center console, never to be seen again anyway! Over the next week I'll probably take a few photos of my new workplace for you guys, if my new boss doesn't mind me plastering a few photos on the 'net. The sheer range of eye candy around the place will have you guys drooling, there are some super cool cars there constantly, from hotrods to American muscle cars, Aussie muscles, the odd modern day super car, a few bikes, etc etc. If there is an appropriate place on this forum for me to document my work there, someone let me know, I'll start a thread showing both my work there and the work of my new work mates
  13. 5 likes
    New wheels are on , rear offset has worked out perfect with zero Gaurd rubbing . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 5 likes
    I'm currently working on my pops old fairlane at the moment. My pop had alot of American cars in the 50's 60's and 70's but in 1975 he brought a brand new green P5 LTD with a black vinyl roof and a 351 clevo. he had that for a few years when my uncle who worked at ford in broadmeadows got him a new car, which which was a LTD fronted XD wagon which he had that for a few years aswell until he traded it in 1990 on the NA which was brand new at the time. he also got the number plates for his 70th in 1990. My dad got in 2008 and drove it till december 2011 we then parked it in the shed at work next to the mechanics XC ute we got it out last year, gave it a scrub, filled it up and took it home. Since then I've changed the dizzy, coil, plugs, and leads, a service and put the chrome 12 slotters off my 1986 Hilux. My future plans for it are: New motor, maybe a au 4.0. Fix all the dints. New auto because mines stuffed. Fix all the other stuff wrong with it. Stay tuned for more updates...
  15. 5 likes
    Been smacking a kombi door around a lot lately ...stupid German tinfoil. Lots of hammering and some careful hot shrinking to bring the skin back in line enough to fill up. Then even more hammering to fold the edge back down.. Primed.. Hammered along, clamping just ahead to keep the shell in tight as I folded the edge over Times three sides Just the top edge to weld up and its door done. Some more tweaking of the skin will be needed but close enough for the moment.
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    Seems I'm having one of those rare days where everything is falling into place so smoothly it's keeping me in the mood to keep going and going. Hopefully I haven't just jinxed it Time for a much dreaded shed clean, then onto prepping the tower notches so the motor can come out. Looking forward to tackling the sump, I'm fairly set on the idea of winging it either side for more capacity, and have decided to shift the pickup forward because why bloody not do it once and do it right.
  17. 5 likes
    Hey mate, I hope you don't mind me shoving some unsolicited advice into your thread but I bloody love all things automotive fabrication and do it for a living, so, I'm hoping maybe you'll appreciate my 2 cents on this I would absolutely irrevocably advise going for 100% argon for any and all TIG work, regardless of the added cost. There's no doubt in my mind you will see a night and day difference not only with your end results but the welding process itself will be a hell of a lot smoother, easier and more forgiving. You'll have a more stable arc, more stable weld pool, a 'cleaner', stronger weld with little to no porosity, etc. If I don't fuck up and shove my rod into my tungsten (happens all the time of course, lol) I often go several welding jobs without the need to touch my tungsten - they just refuse to deteriorate much at all when they are shielded nicely. I recently went from working for 'the man' to more or less self employed, so believe me, I now understand the pain of paying for fuckin' argon! The stuff is so damned expensive on our side of the world that I have to factor its price into even the most mediocre of welding jobs. If I've learnt anything about managing argon use, its this - never leave your bottle on overnight even if you're sure your setup doesn't leak, never trust the gauge on your cheapo regulator to tell you your flow rate, and never go too long without checking your flow rate even if you're sure there should be no reason the flow has upped itself. I'm too poor to afford one of those fancy glass-tube, bottle mounted flow gauges so I use one of these things here - a little fiddly to hold onto your ceramic cup while adjusting your reg, but I've sworn by using it ever since realizing the flow gauge on my cheapo reg is grossly inaccurate. Once I started being as meticulous as I could with my gas I started saving huuuuuundreds of dollars, I reckon between now and back when my old boss was paying for my gas I now use literally half of what I use to I have both a $2200 AD/DC beast and a $300 chinese piece of shit, and, I have to say, buying a $300 DC only chinese shitter is a perfectly good option to learn with. I say this because alloy is sooo much more difficult to weld than steel that your typical learner will need dozens of hours of TIG'ing steel before there is much point even attempting alloy anyway. This is aggravated ten fold when welding any alloy that isn't absolutely brand new from the shelf - I've seen the guy who taught me fabrication damn near driven to tears trying to weld old cast alloy
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    So, I'm waiting patiently for my diff to come home, and I'm staring at the shitty chrome rocker covers and air filter I used to paint/run-in the 351. Time to go back on the shelf............ Thats much better.....
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    3/8" NPT, not BSP. There's one thread per inch or so difference between the two, which you might get to seal but only winds in 1 or 2 turns. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  20. 5 likes
    For that era I love the round door rolls
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    Had the pleasure on working on this at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Works a treat. ๐Ÿ˜Ž And now I can use all my cool Emojis for stories... ๐Ÿ˜€๐ŸŽฎ๐Ÿบ๐ŸŒ›๐Ÿš—๐Ÿ•๐Ÿ–๐Ÿป๐Ÿบ ๐Ÿฅƒ๐Ÿฅƒ๐Ÿฅƒ๐Ÿ’Š๐Ÿ“ด ๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿค˜๐Ÿฅ™๐Ÿš—๐Ÿ’ค hehehe.....
  24. 5 likes
    first run im surprised it actualy did a decent burnout,then i staged the car,and off i go i took it easy on the first run and the car started to come on really strong in the top end but it only ran a 16.9 thats about a second quicker than a factory efi 4 speed xe/f,but 2nd run i got a much better launch and kept my foot into it and it knocked a second off the last time,16.039,so im starting to get real interested in doing some more runs to better it into the 15,s but they closed the staging lanes after 2 runs,i also had nearly a full tank off fuel,it didnt use as much as i thought it would on the way up,so when i got home it still had 1/2 tank,would off easy got into the 15,s with less fuel and higher stall launch,anyway im stoked and i can see why ya get so addicted to drag racing its a real buzz and i was shittn a bit in the lane you could call it stage fright,but naa i was cool ,the car hardly hit the red light on the taco i guess was around 5000rpm,still plenty more in it imo,i can tell you also 3.45 is way to high for drag racing,lower gears of 4.11 ect would have been better,my car just started to come alive 3/4 track and top end is awsome,so the car performed ok,i drove it there,raced it then drove it home,perfect weather as well was a big turnout,but i had to wait nearly 1 hour in the staging lanes there was sooooo many cars.
  25. 5 likes
    Im here now Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
  26. 4 likes
    Fun fact... in 21 years of car ownership, I've only spent the equivalent of one brand new car on the combined purchase price (and a base model at that). First car was bought in 96 or 97.. 81? TE Gemini wagon 76 Rover p6b 89 EA gli sedan 77 Datsun 260z 2+2 (Also a hx one tonner at same time but not counted because it was business vehicle) *same 89 EA again, reaquired from family member* 90 NA Fairlane 6cyl 92 Range Rover Vogue SE 74 Rover p6b (red one recently sold) 53 Fargo ute 74 Rover p6b (white one) 96 Mirage hatch 02 Au3 wagon 05 BA xt sedan Grand total ...$34,000 Not counted in that list, blue 76 rover and white 98 xh ute.
  27. 4 likes
    the news doesn't always grind my gears.. oh, yes it does... that's why i hardly ever watch it.. so much rage.. one of the stories was of a cop van crashing into a house in Hoppers Crossing(probably smoked a few cones at their last bust?) and the news reporter says at the end, the home owners have insurance but are keen to have the police pay.. DERRRRR! what the fuck, it's not like they could do a runner, a car hit the house, of coarse the cops have to pay. another story was drug to lose weight(new and amazing... wonder how much they got paid?) i click on the website for instructions of use... *exercise and diet with the tablet.. DERRR.. they make out like you can still eat a tub of ice cream and lose weight.. (that's how i took it... because i want the ice cream)
  28. 4 likes
    Righto, here goes! I fabricate all day every day, and have always found documenting my shed antics via forum threads quite enjoyable, so for the first time I'm gonna start a thread not based on any one single project, but instead just have a place I can throw up general work for those interested in having a gander. First I'll splurge my back story out, but for those who don't care, keep scrolling for actual interesting relevant content I finished my six month, part time general fabrication polytechnic course just over three years ago now, at the age of 25. After an 18 month stint in Europe, I came home to Christchurch, New Zealand knowing I wanted to choose a career that would give me the ability to build the sickest custom cars possible, for the biggest savings. The most blatant choice in my mind was fabrication, and oh boy did that turn out to be the best decision I've ever made in my life! When I told my poly tutors I wanted to learn fab for the purpose of ending up in the automotive side of the industry, they both warned me that it would probably take years of fab experience before any high end custom car shops would be willing to take me on. They would have been correct in 95% of cases, but lucky for me, I already had all the automotive knowledge I needed to be able to walk into any fab shop and not have to be taught anything about cars, just the fabrication side of things. Fresh out of poly, I thought fuck spending my late 20's fabricating in a factory, it seemed like a terrible waste of my time considering I eat, sleep and shit cars. I googled all of the high end fab shops in my city, wrote a list of addresses, and left home to find a career. I knew my best chance by far was going to be inquiring door to door, rather than over the phone. I tend to have the gift of the gab when it comes to such things, and it turned out to be the way to go.The first shop I visited was run by an old fella working on a bunch of old race cars. His first and only question to me was, can you weld alloy?, and my answer was, not really. He turned me away, and fair enough to him I reckon. The second place I walked into is a small but well known shop called Petes Customs. Now, Pete has a reputation for running his shop solo, had been 95% solo for the 10-11 years since starting his shop, and was immediately skeptical when I walked in and told him I wanted to work. Luckily for me, I had the brilliant idea of offering him a two week, wage free trial where he could feel out whether or not we got along, he could trust me with his customers cars, etc etc. After two weeks, if he wasn't keen, it would be no worries, thanks for the two weeks experience, no hard feelings, see you later. Nine months and around 1500 hours later, I left Pete's shop with all of the knowledge retaining to automotive fabrication I could have ever dreamed of. Of course, I'll still be learning new things every day even in 30 years time, but even after only three years in the business I can confidently say I have enough overall knowledge and understanding to be able to tackle any fabrication job without hesitation. I hope documenting and discussing my work here in this thread and various other places around the 'net will allow me to spread my knowledge to any car enthusiast out there keen to learn. Here's the first project I witnessed Pete working on. I quickly learned he was the kind of guy that never cuts corners, and constantly pushes the boundaries of his work in a pure, unbridled desire to be the best fabricator he can possibly be. I had walked into the right shop! How about that... an Alfa Romeo Alfasud that has such a passionate owner, it was left to Pete to build an absolutely no expense spared racing beast! It took weeks, months really, for me to get used to seeing Pete pluck thoughts from his head and turn them into reality. If the customer can dream it, Pete will make it happen. And you can damn well bet Pete will make it look as sexy as he can, too.
  29. 4 likes
    If there's a patch over a red cars rust, is there really rust under the patch?
  30. 4 likes
    Red cars always have rust, if you don't look is their still rust? If a tree falls in the woods? And no one heard it, did a tree really fall? Red car problems - it's a project # all rust removed
  31. 4 likes
    Roll cages can become tedious when TIG'ing them, especially when you can't help but be a perfectionist, but the end result is satisfying as hell. Unfortunately, TIG welding cages requires three times the amount of time and care spent to get notched and fitting snug together, for a strong, quality weld. You can have 3X the gap for a typical MIG cage, and blast it all together with a perfectly adequate result. Did it to my mates 1JZ FC RX7, amongst a shitload of other work. Such as V-mounting the rad and intercooler, in a space where a V-mount really shouldn't have been able to fit. Not only does it fit, the frame I built for it means just four bolts has the entire frame, rad and intercooler pulled out in one piece.
  32. 4 likes
    i was expecting it to be a pig on cold start too, because it was "rich as" the first time it fired up on the EFI and now it's been "learning" and much leaner.. didn't take a long video, it was pretty much time to go driving.. didn't seem to find time for an in car video, but i should get one where it sits on 1800 at 100kmh in 6th with the 4.11 diff ratio.. quite amazing, no wonder it's better on fuel now(wouldn't run 6th with the carby, way way too low in the revs outside the cam's happy range) start up video below
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    so slight update today - 1. exhaust has been buggin me for awhile then when i launched i would hear a smash, was the konis dont hard a hard enough setting (will be coils soon) so i had to modify the exhaust pipe with some smashy smashy with the hammer, then it was sitting to far again the fuel tank .. cut and shut and push, few hours later sitting right 2. fuel sender - soaked in vinegar for a week, got all of it out, washed in petrol (should of blown out with petrol and air gun ) as you can see from pic alot of crap came off it 3. think my alternator is suss .. not sure as yet .. but another 400 needed prob have to wait for next pay 4. made it to penlink , car went great, did some fuel averaging, should get around 20L per 100 - alot more then the 50 i use to get (thanks dyno tuner guy) EFI is def the go from now on , over carbys 5. me and dean where quite amazed the bonnet up on my shit looking falcon caused a few crowds of people "threes a crowd" as they say
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    some may have seen this on bookface
  35. 4 likes
    Ok its all done and looks good lets put her up for sale all the other motors ive done sold first listing Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
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    this is one of the images from the weekend. because of the social attitude towards drones, it can be hard to just put them up and get some photos. i only had mine in the air for all of about 10 minutes before i gave up on the weekend.
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    I took this photo a few weeks back, but wasnt ready to put it to the public eye just yet as you can see it was taken with a drone, and you can see the watermark of my new business venture very very early days but i like this photo
  39. 4 likes
    I finally have the bumper and spare wheel cover back. Keen to put them on but the bumper will have to wait until the engines in so it's living with the bonnet for now. Pete did me a huge solid and charged me very little to paint the bumper, bumperettes, inspection covers, mouldings and the wheel cover so I've got some spare cash in the bank for speed parts Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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    had planned to do a quick sesh on the red car and focus on the xb rear quater .. didnt happen mounted the new holley screen very happy with so far, using one of those found mounting systems with a powerful magnet, went to change the gauge face on the o2 sensor for a silver one .. what a nightmare, didnt pull the gauge out cause i was lazy, dropped the stupid plastic nubs inside for the button, pulled the console out to find it, couldnt find it, went to install the console with hand under doing up the screw i see it sitting next to the seat raill .. if i never pulled the console out wouldnt of found it .. fkn thing took it for a drive, still kicking goals so far, i reckon 250-300km to a tank by the time im done, next pay day ill take it for another big drive and see now the tune is alot more refined - starts alot easier remounted the ecu to include the plastic sleeves for the mounts .. was waiting on smaller bolts that would work - the main o2 gauge is bieng a bit weird, need to remove the o2 sensors and re-calibrate them next time its on the hoist and should be fine - still has power for days and lots of fun to drive and perfect time for summer
  42. 4 likes
    Starting to look better Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
  43. 4 likes
    Now that the vrs kit has turned up I can fit the new valve stem seals and put the heads back together. the old seals gently prying the old seals off installing the new seals reassembly with my make shift valve spring compressor which is still much easier on the hands than the small lever type. I wouldnโ€™t try and use this on double valve springs or any heavy duty ones! The next steps will be cleaning up the block while I wait for the new head bolts to arrive.
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    ECU mounted. BA's have these in the engine bay from factory, all well and good until you want to remove everything possible from your 'bay to clean it up, luckily there was enough length on the engine loom for us to do this without cutting and extending any wires. Shaved off a bunch of the ignition barrel's bulky flanges to slimline it as much as possible, we knew wherever this ended up was gonna be tight. This little box and that weird copper winding wrapping around the end of the barrel is the security part of the setup. No idea how it works but as previously mentioned, we are happier keeping this and running a second key for extra security rather than spending a couple hundred bucks removing it from the ECU. Also made this funky wee bracket. It uses the same bolt that mounts the bottom section of the dash to the chassis, leaving the dash and everything else unmodified. We ended up choosing this location because everywhere else it could possibly go had an undesirable compromise of some type or another. Where it is now feels super comfortable and natural to use from the drivers seat. Where the barrel is now can be spotted by anyone looking hard enough, and we played with the idea of putting it somewhere else completely out of sight, but every option that achieved that made it quite the bastard to actually use. We came to realize that hiding it completely was pretty pointless as any prospective thieves finding this thing won't help them take the car - between two key barrels, an alarm/immobilizer, a GPS, a battery kill switch, a well hidden ignition kill switch or three, the car very rarely being parked anywhere other than dads garage, and this type of car not likely to be targeted by thieves here in NZ (they are all after 90's Jap cars here), anyone that manages to take the car probably bloody deserves it, and whatever the insurer ends up valuating this car at might well buy dad a coupe project anyway, hah! Next up is mounting the two fuse boxes under the dash, finishing the shifter mount, making a hump in the floor for the starter motor clearance, starting the shock tower notches, finishing the headers... suffice to say we still have a few busy months ahead but for now we're happy enough progress is being made I guess
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    Hours of picking the wiring apart, ready for a complete reshuffle... Thankfully its dads bitch job, not mine Accelerator pedal in position. Positioned high enough that it's difficult to snag your shoe when trying to whip your foot onto the brake in a hurry. These BA accelerator pedals have a strangely small amount of travel. The sheet metal I've bolted to is a liiiittle bit flimsy but putting in a proper back stop behind the pedal should mean its impossible to actually apply pressure on the mount. May make spreader plates to replace the penny washers pictured for good measure anyway.
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    As far as I'm aware Ken Moss is still the fastest NA drag raced crossflow in Australia @ 11.01. He has been beaten in a drag race by Glen from Ayr (wazzy 250). Glen's was NA full weight XE sedan and ran 11.4 consistently. Kens new car will be very interesting and I'd say that his current time will be shaved. As I have said many times, to run a serious time with these NA you need a stupid amount of coin and a well designed package. Having said all that, you can have a damn lot of fun drag racing what you have and trying different things to make you faster. Steve's little 2 barrel crossy ran 16.8 first time out at Willowbank. That was with a single wheel, 25 spline - 2.92 diff and leaving very softly as he had 'to drive the car home and didn't want to break an axle'. He has the bug and is in the process of fitting 3.45 gears to a 28 spline LSD e series diff. Enjoy what you have. Do what YOU want with it I say.
  48. 4 likes
    I forgot to add these photos, here is the sender unit in vinegar, check out how it clouded up! It satiated like that for 2 days then came out like new! Sorry I donโ€™t have any photos afterwards. The rust just fell off it leaving it super clean. Thanks mate. After the inlet manifold gasket is done Iโ€™ll start on the rust! Yep, F trucks are super tough!
  49. 4 likes
    slight update - i played around with the ecu last night, with the fuel maps and AFR after reading a few guides from usa - and WOT is perfection almost .. idle isnt luving life as much as before but i lowered the AFR to what it was at idle before - see how it goes - its still alot better then carb but not instant rock solid now the good news- NO MORE FKN PRESSURIZING THE SUMP - dont over fill your sump kids .. to much oil does hurt can now cruise at 100km in 6th gear .. never could before! the bloody handheld is having a hissy fit saying it cant find the ecu .. could be i plugged it into can 2 and not can 1 - will fix next weekend playing with the ba seat mount still, think ive got it sorted now
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    Pic Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
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