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Some other news.... ...meet Merlin Junior (or Merlina?) I now have a license to tell as many Dad jokes as I can remember [emoji14] Oh and its not even fully cooked yet and this is what it thinks of you lot

Gday all, I've just bought my dream panno. Almost completely restored XA Panel Van! Might need some help finding a few bits and pieces to finish it off, your help might be needed! Cheers.

Might also be worthwhile thinking about how you review footage and where you store it. If you have multiple cameras recording with audio and 4K resolution that you want at least 30 days' retention, then you'll need a unit with a decent amount of storage space; most units will have a HDD installed internally but you'll need to keep an eye on how big it is. Cameras can also transmit over private wi-fi into the unit - makes it easier cable-wise but each unit will still need mains power - but that will increase the price as the unit needs its own wi-fi transceiver. The cameras themselves can run the entire gamut of fixed black-and-white images over RCA cabling to the you-beaut PTZ (pan-tilt-zoom) infra-red 360deg weather-proof dome cameras with multiple microphones that transmit over network or wi-fi. It really comes down to image quality, resolution, and retention time, each increasing the price as you go. There's also the question of access: these days most units are networked and can connect directly to an internet router (either via cable or its own wi-fi), and configured correctly can be viewable externally over a smartphone app. This however has its own security issues: please ensure the firmware of every camera and the unit itself is updated regularly, as cheap or lazy units are incredibly easy to hack (Kogan and Swann CCTV systems are notorious for how insecure they are). Stand-alone units can be plugged into a monitor and mouse/keyboard for local viewing as well. Most systems are all-in-one (a fixed unit with HDD inside which cameras plug into/interface with), but there are some lightweight NAS units (network attached storage, basically a block of HDDs with an network address) that have built-in software (like Surveillance Station) specifically to talk to and administrate multiple cameras over a local network. Storage to a NAS also increases retention options and a NAS can automate a lot of the process, and even email you alerts. I used to be a cable guy before I side-stepped into IT, and security systems are my bread and butter; security footage audits and reviews are a part of my job. Let me know if you want any more details, I'd be happy to help.

Utes best was 11.5 previous and it went quicker than that😎 Did get interviewed couple times yes. Wagon ran 11.6 11.7 all week. I burnt out a idler pulley and had to do a NAT ASP pass on the Thursday @ Swanhill. Burns the legend rang a contac and overnighted a belt from Japan😆 well Melbourne really and we got it Friday. So I fitted new belt added a little timing as its still way safe and drove to Calder. I found I like CC and dry on tap...alot😍. And people eat the steak very under cooked. Also didn't get a decent coffee all week till Burns house on the Friday morning.Thats a long time for a man to be without good coffee. The surge tank on the wagon broke a weld so we towed the wagon back to Harcort on my trailer/tow car and I drove SLY250 to finish off the week. Fresh oil in and a wash on Sunday for the ute and I drove it to work Monday.Runs on the board and proven long distance runner. It think the car has earnt a birthday✌🏾 Love my car👊🏽

Few photos of the xb I picked up. Hopefully get a few things fixed on it over christmas. Needs rust repairs bonnet/tailgate. Cooling system is in poor condition. Will add power steering for the wife. cheers

So, since the rear frame rails needed rust repairs I desided to cut them and drop the floor as much as possible, the trunk in these cars is so small that every space I can get is appreciated. A bit overkill, new frame rails are made of 70 x 50 x 5 mm RHS tubing I bought few years ago to make full length subframe connectors (but later I desided to keep using the ones already attached to car). I wanted to do new bigger fuel tank, as the original is so small. With the lower trunk floor tank refill had to be moved from right side to rear, so I bought surge tank cap and draw it’s pattern to be laser cutted to 2 mm stainless. The cap is bolted to 90 deg 3” pipe to go down, maybe better just put these picks here and be quiet... The extra hole in right is for kill switch, if I would make this for track. Plate will be bolted to hinges at down and I’m using these for upper mounting: So with plate it looks like this: The floor and frame rails are chopped right after rear shock towers, and new frame rails fo down there: I don’t have better picks of it, but this is how it is now: I made full length inner fenders, never liked the original design: The fuel tank will be part of trunk floor, like early Mustangs had it. If I can make it about 85 x 50 x 20 cm it will be 85 litres, witch is huge, so I might make it a bit smaller. Here is some sketch I figured out doing the rear of the car, black lines are the body, blue lines are fuel tank and red lines are there only to show that my design is actually higher from ground than original. Next I need to make some prototype of tank and I’ll try to make it the same ground clearance as original tank.

Obviously everything needs to be adjusted but im finally starting to see the end result. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

And this is what the end results will be. Trim the boards to 1200mm long, get two more that match so I've got enough for five per seat. Bottom bars will be horizontal because that's what she liked the look of. If I need bracing I'll work that out later.

I started on Mrs Christmas present today. She wanted a pair of outdoor bench seats and she likes wrought iron type stuff (you've seen the microwave stand and couple other things I've made for her). We sketched a couple mud maps to work out what she wanted and how to make it work with what I've got. It's going to use up most of the wrought iron thats left but that's better than it just taking up space. Made a jig with some bits of steel to hold each frame the same way as there's six frames in all. And the first one done as a sample to make sure she was happy. All good, so I can make the others up when I have time over the next few days. This is the timber for the seats, bit of cypress pine from bunnings.

Hey check this original outback ute i spotted on the freeway back from brizzy ,raised suspension correct bullbar ect first one i have ever seen around here Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk

Slight update from drag challenge I ended up getting through the week , struggled a little on the first two days , turns out I had a bad engine earth and the msd wasn't working properly. Ran a slowest time of 13.1 Then after I fixed the earth went onto a 8.00 on the 8th and then consistent 11.9s until I turned the boost up on the last day and would have gone about 11.7 but they only ran times to 1000ft at Calder for our class . Awesome event , i did hurt the motor a little bit with a few backfires before I fixed the engine earth and it's got some blow by now but did keep going all week and got faster and faster as the days went on with some better launches , also drove us home again . I'll pull it out after Xmas and go over it again then onto next years prep , a roll cage and hopefully into the 10s Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well car did around 1400kms plus over the week and PBd Friday night dispite not been able to rpm over 6400 due to no tuning yet. Had teething issues as expected but by Thursday/Friday it was all gelling. The flex fuel sensor is a God send and the car is a key tap away from starting no matter whats in it. Did a 1.5 60ft on very firm suspension setting as the car can shock the tyre now and first half of run showed good potential to be fast.Convertor flashes to 6100 now once you let go of the button lol. So time and money permitting Ill get a tune done on it and it will step up legit. Watch this space.

Bit of a milestone today, getting the car out of the shed for the first time in a longtime. Trailing to my brothers place where it will sit until I get organised to get it painted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

well the car is home again - rear windscreen trims fitted better - glass removed and re-fitted nicer - rear crash panel pulled out straight - tail gate was resprayed entirely - more thread inserts fitted to the roof for the roof racks it wasnt all good. they did muck something up, but ive managed to sort it out. somehow they managed to strip the threads on the backing plate for the latch for the tail gate. i went to adjust it when i got the car home, and couldnt work out why the bolts were just turning. pulled the rubber cover off the inspection hole on the inside of the spare wheel well, to find nut and bolt right through. so that is very annoying but its ok. the tail gate sits a little high on one side, but tomorrow i might fit the tail lights up to see if they hide the difference a bit. photos to come tomorrow

Rollin powerskids @ 70-80kph. Just stand on it in top and it blows the 275x60's off it like there stockers 😆

Got the car back from the trimmer last week and they did an amazing job, Far better then i was ever expecting it to turn out. now i'll need to paint all the trims to finish it off also a new headliner but that's a glass out job and glass out means new window rubbers, fix the rust in the roof and to do that means repainting the roof and you see why i wont be doing the headliner for a very very long time haha. we decided to ditch the factory rubber floor in the front and go carpet throughout and with modern insulation in there its unusually quiet for a classic car. think i'll need a louder exhaust to make up for it. here's the photos because we all know threads are boring without them before (take note the stunning contrast between the olive cloth and green seat belts with a third shade of green on the vinyl) when the trimmer took the covers off the seats the original trim was still there. this gave the correct patterns to use and surprisingly we weren't that far off with the colours of the new material being used. so with the new seats we couldn't go putting the dirty old side covers back on, so for probably the first time in 4 years i've got to paint something for myself. And finally here's the finished results. unfortunately we couldn't find new seat belts that match the new seats so had to settle for black ones. finished off with some brand new correct scuff plates And had all the (running) cars lined up so i had to grab a pic haha. That's all for now. probably wont be any interesting news till the new year. cheers.

At some point I tried to use burned body parts from my old ’84 Mustang but the metal wasn’t good anymore, they would need too much work. Chopped the roof off of it and the whole thing collapsed... had to call truck to pick it up and now it is gone. It was a great car, 3.8 and C5 trans. It was my first car. Got it painted at spring 2012 and it burned at august. Then bought this beast I still have.

Finally had some time to get the rear bumper painted. Came up mint. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

because Dave is technology retarded(can't post pics or videos even though he's an IT Nerd...) i took two videos of the exhaust.. first one is running shithouse because the float levels were too high at least on the primary, but i suspect the secondary must have a shit needle and seat because it's still shit and has fuel around it on the secondary bowl.. . but the new mufflers are 2.25 or 2.5 inch twins (mounted side by side) and dumped at the diff, both are offset inlet/outlet baffled sports mufflers(probably cheap glass packs) sounds good, but i've heard this engine sound better when it was in Dave's XE with a single 3" first video rich as hell due to float too high(primary bowl) running better, but still not right ..

Yeah, oil has been used for years, Especially on carby base gaskets and things you remove often, stops the gasket sticking to the metal and the lengthy clean up times. Rebuild your old unit, she'll be right. The cheap knockoff might work for 6 months, then what do you do? Kits for them available, back up service, parts..?? Always used Carter stuff when i can, lasts for years. The fuel tank should be removed, and flushed, not hard as stated. All bolts are in the boot area, remove the sender, and cut the filler tube off and get another one from GT Ford or Grand Tourer, etc.... alternatively, you can buy 5 fuel filters and change them every tank of petrol, this should get the majority of mud out. Petrol tanks get water in, from heat dissipation, the fuel itself, shitty fuel caps, etc.. tip a cup of metho in with your next tankfull.

So, this beast came from factory with 200 cid and 4 speed manual. I’m the 5th owner of this car, the first one took it with him from States to Britain and the second one bought it from there, and got it here. The 3rd owner build it a bit, here are some picks from 2002 when he bought it: It was originally white car with light brown interior, I can’t imagine who would pick these colors from factory... The car was also a bit rusty back then... He made the interior pretty with newer seats and painted all plastics black. It came to me like this (+10 years), and I like it. Only front seats could be a bit better and dash pad wasn’t so good anymore. Later he got Classic Inlines alloy head and header, Clay Smith cam and lots of other good stuff including Modern Driveline T5, Maximum Motorsports heavy duty control arms, CC-plates, front coil overs and 8.8” lsd with 3.08 gears. The car got too rusty as his DD, they use lots of salt at winter and he sold it to a guy who fixed some rust spots here and there and then swapped the engine to stock 200 cid before I bought the car from him.

Engine back up the right way. Looks a bit better Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Okay, loaded a lot of picks and I’ll try to tell something with them. Here are the first ones: The car as I bought it, only thing faster than my camera was my fathers angle grinder as I had to cut springs to get it lower. Which was stupid idea but had to do it, I was 20. I started this project with this battery box installation. That was painless, but after the day I had parted all of interior. And this is what I found. Old broken brake line under the mat and lots of rust everywhere. I drove the car few weeks without interior and you could see thru the right rearwheel from drivers seat. There was water everywhere in and outside, so driving wasn’t fun anymore. So moved three Harleys out of the shed and parked this for a year and a half I hope writing the history of this car isn’t too boring.

Over the last week ive been in Alice Springs and worked round 80 hrs so the weekend was spent travelling home on a delayed aircraft and most of Sunday lazing around. I finally had some spare time tonight to play in the shed but wish i hadnt. One of those nights where everything i touched turned to shit including smashing my thumb knuckle with a hammer. So i got some overriders in pretty average condition for the bumpers and set about tidying them up a bit. They were already black so i rubbed down the top coat to reveal the undercoat and removed the rubber bumps. The rubber was fairly poor and looked perished but after 1/2 an hour with the sander and some 80 grit they have come up well. The brackets are rooted on them so i thought whats the best way to resolve that and i have come up with the solution of welding them straight to the bumper and smoothing them to look like one piece. Should look good when they are done.

And then there were six

Haven't done heaps on the xf over the last month. Had uni exams and went on a roadtrip around the top of the south island. Finally got all the electric windows working after having a dig through the electrics. Turned out to be no ignition signal to the relay. I don't need to hold the door open to keep cool while driving now lol. ... While i was at it, I removed a bunch of shit wiring from the previous v8 motor and radio setup. Pretty much all the added wiring from previous owners is gone now. Only electrical falt now is to figure out why the fan doesn't go. Not so much of an issue now that the windows work but would be nice still. Also fixed the issue of the mufflers draging on speed bumps Mates paddock got a mow afterwards to check the note of the zorst.... sounds near enough for a stock crossy. Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Hey mate, thanks for chasing me up. Have been pretty busy on the XF (when I get time anyway). Engines out and off to the rebuilders (only for the machining). The plan has altered slightly: Zero decked block Ported head Crow 14770 Cam Cylinders need to be bored out, so will be 40thou oversize as that’s what’s recommended Balance job on the bottom end Light weight flywheel Have gone with the MS3x ECU with the datalogging function, will just be a bit of fun! Have ordered some wiring stuff (the engine bay is a mess), new engine mounts and twin 12” thermos and a Davies Craig Thermo switch. Spent an afternoon cleaning the engine bay and am cleaning up and painting the extractors. So all in all, it’s progressing! Should come in around $3k for everything and should put out some (decent) figures! Thanks for the input! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Must have been idling off the line haha, my old one ran 13.6 dead stock. My au runs almost the same mph as a mates au xr8, his et was 13.9 mine 15.3. If you can't get them off the line hard it kills the et, but the power still,gets the mph up there.

SO... i recently had a bit of a play with this bike, the seat pole was too low and made your knees bind up(be less of an issue if i wasn't fat) so.. do you go and buy a new seat pole for $22? hell no.. you get a section of gemini front sway bar, cut it down and jam it inside the seat bole that was sectioned in the middle.. welded of coarse and painted black.. winner.. even gave it a slight lay back with the bend in the sway bar.. the chain was always in the back of my mind.. hadn't found a better one anywhere, and was considering replacing the one on the "daily" bike and using the old one on the bmx.. haven't got to it yet.. anyway, i was on a bike ride today (3rd one in 3 days woo! ) and saw another hard rubbish pile worth looking at.. (stuff other than tables, chairs and mattresses) there was a plastic tub labelled "bike parts" ooh, what's in there.. A SEAT POLE... WTF! looks long enough too. also in there were used but still look fine bike chains. and the chain breaker tool. SO! how do i carry a tub of crap back with me 7km ish on the bike? ... look for a bag or something(those plastic bags are almost extinct now.. ) saw a tool box.. that will do, crammed it full and wedged the handle over the bike hand grip.. good enough.. made it home with My bounty fine.. time to fix the bike chain properly.. will also change the gear setup i think also and fit the other set of old school BMX grips i found on a different rubbish pile earlier in the week.

christmas.. i think it can be broken down to its true meaning CHRIST(used as a expletive) MAS (short for Mass amount of times it's used around this time of year..) it caused Me so much stress untill probably 15 years ago i just said NO MORE! no more birthday crap, (what would you like for a present? Money, because you won't spend $200 on the thing i actually need.. but then i'll give you the money back on your birthday because you will want equal value back.. nope.. not swapping junk for junk twice a year ANYMORE. not coming to xmas dinner that causes stress because we have to have a feast that takes 2 days to prepare for arguing at the table every time.. ) breathe in and relax lol, this is not the grinds my gears thread lol. anyway, since then, no more xmas crap and been enjoying it ever since. (what did you get for xmas? same thing i got everyone else....NOTHING!)

Oh, forgot to write the part when I sold one of my DD:s and left most of my tools to trunk... Well I needed more tools anyway so bought myself big box of tools after new year. And the car needs so much welding I had to buy MIG welding machine. And after that a lots of hammers, drills etc and my shop was ready for some action. Now let’s jump to summer of 2017, when I decided to push the car outside, because there was so mutch filler used after some previous welding jobs. Cutted rear inner fenders off and hammered sheetmetal to some form, to make more space for bigger tires. Also made turbo header for my friend’s Honda CBR inside, so needed that space for it. This is how I had the car for almost 6 months: It was really wet summer, and that Shovelhead in the pick was my only vehicle as my gf got the DD to go to work at other side of the country. I got that bike at spring and there was all kind of problems with it, so not much time for this little pony. Got it back inside at the end of November and my plan was to weld rear of the car ready. But the front of this car was rusty too and I’m not sure if the inside of left frame rail had been bent from factory or what would have caused this: For reference, right side was straight: When I saw that I had to measure everything and suprisingly both frame rails were straight up to bumber. I think it was January 2018 when I went mad and made all this: I tried to drill welds to save shock towers but they wasn’t good enough for saving so chopped those too: This is propably the best pick to show how rusty it was: So at this point it was good time to move the firewall further back and so I did: Maybe this post is long enough, to be continued.

I'm willing to try anything at this stage Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

One has to wonder why you'd even consider using 7/16 stud mount roller rockers for such little lift. The reality is that Yella Terra rate their 5/16 bolt ons to 600lbs of open pressure!! No guide plates required, no additional machining costs. I've run 5/16 bolt in the real world for many years and never once pulled a rocker thread. That's in consistent high rpm engines that compete in endurance Motorsport and make decent snot. 254@.050 .584" lift Cams. Secret is good spring control and correct spring pressures. So without all the pissing competitions about lift, duration, compression and all that, let's look at this with real data and science. Your stated goal is to run mid 12's (with spray) in a daily driven xf ute, so lets look at the data and facts. * An xf ute weighs 1350kgs - 2976 lbs, which incidentaly is 120kgs heavier than a crossflow equipped TE cortina in street trim. * to run a 12.5 second pass in a 2976lb vehicle - you'd need 260 moroso hp (ref. Moroso speed calculator). * a 230@.050 camshaft with a good cylinder head (210+ Cfm) and comp around 11:1 will make 1 hp/cube at the tyres in a manual, .78/ cube in an auto with a fair stall. I built a Buick v6 with a 215@.050 that went 214rwhp thru a stalled auto. Good head and 10.5:1 comp. * a 100 shot of nitrous is a real world 100rwhp gain. Yes, it's not Street legal having any nitrous component hooked up, but in a ute you could easily hide the bottle lines etc. Now thats all assuming decent car set up and hook, but your own goal states to 'eventually' run mid 12's. So in essence a 230@ .050 with good head and comp and a shot of gas should be more than capable of running mid 12's, provided the set up is good and the car gets the power and torque to the ground. It all comes down to how much street you intend on doing and how much drag. Also how much your prepared to live with in relation to everyday driveability. I have customers that street drive 254@.050 Cams and love them. Josh recently drove his corty from Glen Innis to Yamba and back for a rod run. 3 hours each way, good cruise manners etc etc that's with 3.7 gears. Pat drives his from Port Douglas to Cairns regularly and loves it - his has 3.45 gears. Ive got a crow hydraulic in the Mad Scientist xflow. It's a 619 I had lying around 226-232@.050 on 110. It has a nice chop at idle and would I'd say is livable idle and manners. 10.8:1 comp. next year we will find out what sort of snot it makes. I think your on the right track track but I would say, don't be scared of putting some compression in her. With the ally head and a good chamber shape you'll have no detonation issues. Bit more static will help with dynamic when you get around the 230@.@50 and above range. Good igniton control (especially with nitrous), a proper dyno tune by a good operator, some attention to suspension and set up and should be well on your way. Either way, have fun with it and enjoy it.

Set up the rims ready for acid wash. You can see the patchy spot rust that either reappeared or I didn't fully blast off(I wasn't going super nuts with the garnet). Fresh with the acid on wet, can already see a colour change towards black spots. While the four wheels dry off I got one of the other fiddling jobs ticked off. Made a sheet metal bracket up, the swage line is free hammer formed to give some stiffness. It's for the back of the cover over the sliding door track. Spot welded in place. Barry also finally got my steel in for me, so I picked that up this morning too. Two new sheets of cold rolled 1mm steel. Price has gone up a little to $44/sheet but still reasonable. A lot easier for him to add a couple extra sheets to an order than for me to pick up or pay $90 for delivery.

You can forget about over .500" lift on standard rocker gear. It's just not going to happen. Well not with any reliability. If you plan on taking it to the strip and giving it a hard time then just go straight to solid flat tappet. The 'run in risks' are the same with hydraulic flat tappet as solid flat tappet and the solid will make more power all day everyday. Roller rockers can be bought cheaply second hand so I'm not sure why you'd bother trying to make the stock stuff work way past its design purpose. 230@50 is a good starting point on camshaft tho. Your cylinder head will need decent flow but there are various porting and build threads on here to guide you in that direction. The aussiespeed 4 barrel unit is really the only choice for the power level your aiming for (based on the times you want to run). Forget the street avenger and go straight to a 650dp. Ignition control is important on these engines so I'd be going nothing less than a 6al2 programmable and a hvc or hvc2 coil. Both are rated for street use and put out decent spark. A decent exhaust to get the bad stuff out and you should be well on your way. You will need to look at keeping weight down as much as you can but your goal should be achievable.

Took the cover from the wheel arch off, and undid 6 nuts. Took no time at all. Couldn’t believe how easy the job was. No redback spiders. But plenty of mud I had to kneel in. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So snuck out of work 15 mins early yesterday, all revved up to grab some more etch and surface primer from Auto One and get stuck in again. So far so good. While I was there, I ordered four new bailey channel felts and the RH rear 1/4 lower inner+outers. Success. Got home and it was all bloody down-hill from there. You guys ever have those times you're out in the shed and absolutely nothing goes to plan? Dunno what the hell happened but accidentally used the etch instead of the surface primer. Idiot... Move onto something else... Did a bit of the charcoal on one of the other doors I'd been working on couple of days ago. Spray it and the bloody finish is crap, got this milky halo on it (humidity)? Far out, move onto something else so I start rubbing back the repair on the back windscreen and notice there's a lump of filler has come through on the underside, think "I'll just knock that off" and it knocks off but pulls a small hole through the outer surface, now have to do that again. Move onto the opposite corner of the rear windscreen to dust on a bit of surface primer and the can shits out a big splurt of primer. TOOLS DOWN. Dunno what it is, sometimes you just knock through jobs successfully. Other times I go out there and everything turns to s**t! It's not just me, right?

2 sticks of dynamite, and close all the windows. Should get all 4 doors off at once.

With the business really kicking goals, it has taken way longer than I first anticipated but it finally lives. For those that don't follow the business Facebook page the reason for the sudden motivation to finish it is my wife and I have entered Targa Great Barrier Reef and we are doing it in the ute!!!! Being complete novices we are entered in the TSD class (time speed distance). This allows a max speed of 130km/h but doesn't require a cage or half cage. Penny is keen to learn rally Nav so it will be a good starting point where we can still give the old girl some currie. Rules dont allow boost so the low comp head went and I stuck the original head off old faithful on to bump the comp up a bit. She now has 10.9:1 and seems to enjoy it. The original plan of this build was to do upgrades along the way and post results and that hasn't changed. I've got a series of intake manifolds and carbs to try and I'll post the result up on here as well as on the business page. Anyway as you can see from the vid vid I still have to finish painting the old girl but at least all the rust is cut and she is reasonably straight. I plan to drive the wheels off this thing next year. Can't wait.

Shhhhhhh.......... wifey doesn't know I'm here. !

Its a 75 wagon was registered but really in no condition to pass a rwc. I guess condition is fair with rust in a few places but nothing I cant fix. The 302 has 136k on it still running strong bog stock. Im in Townsville which is stupidly hot right now so progress will be slow. Will take some photos tomorrow. Cheers

Next on the list was the nose.. filled a few holes and finally got back to welding the bottom lip down permanently. Next, drivers door. More shrink disc work and some slapping to bring up some lows from the welded edge I fixed last stint. Needs a bit more but I was had it by then. Also prepped and painted the gearbox crossmember because Nick was possibly coming to put the rear end back in. (Didn't happen for family reasons) Red wheel to strip back Primed And painted Looks perfect for a hidden part and no true paint prep.

Okay so been the longest engine swap of my life [emoji23] Had emergency surgery on Monday morning to have my appendix removed so I’m now recovering and not allowed to lift anything over 3kgs for a month which is going to kill me I reckon. I have just got my head back yesterday from machining and repairing the broken exhaust manifold. Saved all my hard earned dollars at red rooster and bought new heavy duty clutch and my second gasket kit and a new timing chain kit and a whole heap of parts and also got a hold of an XG supplement manual. finally ready to put the engine back together.... been a long stretch and now I can’t till new year [emoji3525] Heaps more parts in the garage with the engine but I can’t walk yet so maybe for another day. Cleaned up a heap of things like the fuel rail, intake manifold and transmission support brackets and heaps. Could someone just help me out and tell me what these buggers are for in my gasket kit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What a Fucktard, ..... probably dob in his Missus for speeding. hope a dog shits in your handbag.

Oh, forgot to mention. My youngest and I went to the local racetrack for a bit of a look. There was a turbo RX7 on track and it was shooting 4 foot flames out of the exhaust. Anyway, my youngest loved it! So the XF has sidepipes and I have worked out how to program the ECU to shoot flame, just because he likes it! Funniest thing is, one of my day jobs at the moment is consulting for the Climate Change Office on Electric Vehicle transition for local council. Hypocrisy to the max! [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Test and tune down the local last night, very busy night only made 2 passes. First 1/4 pass I’ve done and managed a 14.4 @136 lazy start due to bad clutch and missing 4th at the top end of the track. Very happy now know what I need to do for next season. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i stopped smoking ,havent had 1 since last tuesday

Another milestone .. three doors that latch and shut The slider isn't adjusted yet, doin that now, but they are all on and "functional"