bear351c

Thats all ya need....

Diff oil..?? Banana skins...??? Just remember, thicker oil puts a lot more load on a well worn oil pump/drive.

I would, but, it's your money. 3 angle valve job, while your at it ??

2 head gaskets will fix that..! Check your compression ratio with zero deck, as you may have to run her on Premium, not cheap these days.

No probs, unsure of the Wilwood setup, never used them, heard good and bad. I reckon good rotors and pads would be sufficient. DBA make some nice vented and slotted rotors, Stay away from drilled rotors, they can get hairline cracks between the holes. Once you've painted the car, web rubbed and clear coated the old girl, you can safely hide her in the shed without doing any damage. (unless your shed leaks, or stuff falls on the car, or mice get in, etc...) after all, thats what most of us do over winter anyways......... Get the ZG on the road, passed rego, with all stock (ish) parts. Then as funds allow, change out the wheels, discs, sway bars, shocks or coil overs, but at least you'll be able to drive her around in between these jobs.

Have a look at AFD, CHI, and Scott Cook (SCM) just to compare prices etc......

If you can get it done, buy a cheap boroscope from ebay, (flexible tube camera) and have a look down the spark plug holes. If the cylinders are rusty, they will break rings when you wind her over. Paint and panel will be fine for years, if finished right, give you a year or two for the clear coat to set hard. LMAO. Leaving it in primer (which is porous) will get you some nice surface rust, Sort of Champagne Gold colour........Oh wait.......sorry. A 650 or 750 is plenty for a street car, but if you modify the old girl heavily, 850 would work well. (big cam, high comp, head work, air gap etc) 2 ana half should be meaty enough noise wise..... depends on the laws in whichever state you live in, as to whether they 'agree' that 3" is too loud....Tri Y headers for low down torque, 4 into 1 for high end torque. Ceramic headers BONUS..!!! Nice setup, but...... how deep are your pockets.?? A good setup front and rear, with sway bars and Koni or Billsteins will give you miles of smiles. Get the leaf springs reset, lower the front, with some good rotors and pads. Just my thoughts, others may (and will) disagree. but some info for ya to start your journey. Keep us updated, and ask more questions. 400HP Fairlane...! Fuckin' LOVE IT...

Doing fine, mate.... Got yourself a honeypot, a console and a shifter. The console needs a rear bracket to bolt to (see GTshop, or GTFordPerformance, etc) Shifter linkages should bolt straight up, if they are from a C4. Might have to move them a little bit, to get the reverse lights to work, engage park and first properly, but it's easy as. Might want to cable tie the linkages together under the bonnet, on the steering column, save them clunking around. B&M is for drag race or 'look at me'. No real benefit on a daily, the original Tbar works well for decades. Keen to see some pics of the ZG if ya have time. Love the old Fairlanes..

The scallops on the heads are not 100% idiot proof, there were always anomalies in the 70's. "Boss" heads had screw in studs, RPO 83's and all such unicorns........ Not all orange rocker covers denote 302, not all XA GT's had black outs, not all XBGT's had colour coded bumpers....etc , etc.... Only true way is (unfortunately) to rip the heads off, measure the valves and combustion chambers.

Yep, 50 years of interchangable Clevo parts, it's anyone's guess. Agree with Gerg, no fuel saving with a 302. It was a destroked 351.

Not made anymore mate, you'll have to find a New Old Stock one, and they are about $100 bucks..!!

Yeah........ I recently got hold of BA front and rear calipers and rotors, for the same reasons.

Oh those gauges are awesome.! Tell me you're keeping them...

Can't see the pics, but, I'm liking it....already.!