bear351c

Hi mate, probably the rubber 'bag' which is inside the shocks. (they crack/wear etc) could try to source an Air Jackers kit, which used to contain the Schrader valve, coupling, tees and couple of metres of black flex line. Not sure if you buy 'em on eBay or whatever? If you have lowered suspension, you'll need lowered shocks, or they will bottom out, and fail prematurely. Monroe is OK, Pedders have a heavy duty set with bigger bore and thicker rods. If you're cashed up, go Koni or Billsteins.

Generic 3" stainless steel twin system, 4 into 1 extractors. Neighbours love me..! Got a spare pair of mufflers if ya keen.

Usually means low fluid level, or the hydraulic spool inside the Master cyl has travelled too far in one direction hitting the switch. Check your brake system thoroughly first, may be a faulty switch.

Think its white/green trace....? Neg side of the coil.

Assuming you have painted steel 12 sluts.?? Think they were Argent silver originally, not sure. Any wheel silver paint and a nice centre cap and/or a trim ring will do wonders for the look of the car. If it's a keeper, and you have the funds, get them soda blasted/sand blasted/acid dipped and refurbished properly, you'll only ever do it once. First time they lasted 45 years.......

My bad, just read it again..... @SPArKy_Dave or @deankxf any ideas.??

Well explained for those who haven't done it on AU's. If you're gunna work on cars for the rest of your life, (like most of us), those bearing pullers are a worthwhile investment. I'm sure there's a torque setting for the axle nut, once you've driven it 100kays or so, might want to check its seated the bearings properly. I always plop a spoonful of grease in the cap, just to keep the stud/axle nut/threads lubed up. Nice photos. Mate had an XR6 ute years ago, flogged the sh!t out of it, wouldn't die..!! His was red, Vixen.?? anyways, nice car.

Had the bolts come loose on my old ZL land yacht. Sound was generally worse at idle, like a lifter/rocker rattle. Most engines will always stop at the same 1 or 2 places on the flywheel/flexplate, so if the teeth are munted they will usually be in the same spot next time you try an start it. It is a common issue on inline sixes. If it struggles to crank when hot, thats a slightly different issue. Maybe timing, fuel evap related. Check timing is around 8 degrees, try 10, if the balancer has slipped, and try to move the fuel line away from any heat. Let us know how ya get on.

Holy sheet, bro..... That is beautiful.

Possible your leads are the issue, resistance breaks down over time. You might have to take a plug in to Autobahn...... surprised they even know what a spark plug is, these days. New leads and plugs, with correct gap should wake her up.

Love those rims, very Mexicana. Could you get a low profile centre cap? or you happy as they are..

Sounds about right for SA, as well.

Yeah, bolt kits should be same from XA/XB etc, seat rail has a small "cup" over the square head of the bolt to stop it from turning. I always dab a weld on there as I hardly ever remove seat rails once they're in. As Dave said, they get cleaned up by dirt, speedbumps, tree roots and cats etc...

Standard seat rails from any XF will prob fit, Ute, Van, wagon etc. Or you can purchase new from Outlaw Speed or VPW etc. Can buy new repro XA/XB bucket seat rails from GT Ford/Grand Tourer etc.