bear351c

Had the bolts come loose on my old ZL land yacht. Sound was generally worse at idle, like a lifter/rocker rattle. Most engines will always stop at the same 1 or 2 places on the flywheel/flexplate, so if the teeth are munted they will usually be in the same spot next time you try an start it. It is a common issue on inline sixes. If it struggles to crank when hot, thats a slightly different issue. Maybe timing, fuel evap related. Check timing is around 8 degrees, try 10, if the balancer has slipped, and try to move the fuel line away from any heat. Let us know how ya get on.

Holy sheet, bro..... That is beautiful.

Possible your leads are the issue, resistance breaks down over time. You might have to take a plug in to Autobahn...... surprised they even know what a spark plug is, these days. New leads and plugs, with correct gap should wake her up.

Love those rims, very Mexicana. Could you get a low profile centre cap? or you happy as they are..

Sounds about right for SA, as well.

Yeah, bolt kits should be same from XA/XB etc, seat rail has a small "cup" over the square head of the bolt to stop it from turning. I always dab a weld on there as I hardly ever remove seat rails once they're in. As Dave said, they get cleaned up by dirt, speedbumps, tree roots and cats etc...

Standard seat rails from any XF will prob fit, Ute, Van, wagon etc. Or you can purchase new from Outlaw Speed or VPW etc. Can buy new repro XA/XB bucket seat rails from GT Ford/Grand Tourer etc.

The 4 small hoses are part of the Emissions recovery system. Early XA/XB sedans, coupes etc didn't have them, late XB and the XC did. I've plugged mine of in the XA. Looks like a fuel return line next to the filler hose.??

Not sure about the position / location of the bolts. Vice grips on the bolt head Weld an old bolt/nut onto the existing one Hacksaw/grinding disc Leave overnight with some penetrating fluid on it (best found is 50/50 Acetone and ATF) HEAT is always your friend Do it up a little, undo, do it up, undo slightly more this time, do it up, undo it more again.......

Looks like a Brinnel hardness test gone wrong, as Thom said, and someone didn't use sleeves over the rod bolts when installing the pistons. (Small chatter marks). The crank should be OK if it was in a running engine, it would have failed by now for sure. Just need to make sure there are no sharp edges around the dents, use a 5 or 6 mm drill bit BY HAND, and slower chamfer the 'holes' then linish the journals with some emery tape etc.

Normally around 3 degrees as Sparky Dave suggested. Honestly, it can be 2 -5* as long as your diff angle is the same, but opposite direction. stick angle gauge on manifold with carby off, engine fully installed, or transmission shaft hanging out the back of trans, should be angled 3* down, so make sure the diff is 3* up.

Yes, the holes do land outside the reinforcing on some Falcons. Weld a small tab of steel on so the bolt sits flat, or as @SPArKy_Dave suggested, there are other options available.

Guess you buy one for an XB, and cut it down.? They are masonite with a bit of foam, or hessian on them, I think.

Looks like the weight of the engine is pushing the 2 mounts in towards each other. When they're bolted in they tend to "hang" spreading apart. As Chestnut said, the aftermarket Clevo sumps can be a bad fit, I've fitted a couple, and had to trim, grind, elongate holes etc. It's just symptom of the non genuine market. Got an old original sump you can slide in, just to see if it fits better.??

WOW.......... One of the best looking small Fords, built the way YOU wanted it. The retro seat cover material on the Recaros looks ace. Did you end up with something to cover the rear of the back seat, form inside the boot.?? Just so you can't see the frame. Credit to you, mate. Excellent results.