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Everything posted by bear351c

  1. Doing fine, mate.... Got yourself a honeypot, a console and a shifter. The console needs a rear bracket to bolt to (see GTshop, or GTFordPerformance, etc) Shifter linkages should bolt straight up, if they are from a C4. Might have to move them a little bit, to get the reverse lights to work, engage park and first properly, but it's easy as. Might want to cable tie the linkages together under the bonnet, on the steering column, save them clunking around. B&M is for drag race or 'look at me'. No real benefit on a daily, the original Tbar works well for decades. Keen to see some pics of the ZG if ya have time. Love the old Fairlanes..
  2. bear351c

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    The scallops on the heads are not 100% idiot proof, there were always anomalies in the 70's. "Boss" heads had screw in studs, RPO 83's and all such unicorns........ Not all orange rocker covers denote 302, not all XA GT's had black outs, not all XBGT's had colour coded bumpers....etc , etc.... Only true way is (unfortunately) to rip the heads off, measure the valves and combustion chambers.
  3. bear351c

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Yep, 50 years of interchangable Clevo parts, it's anyone's guess. Agree with Gerg, no fuel saving with a 302. It was a destroked 351.
  4. bear351c

    88 XF heater tap

    Not made anymore mate, you'll have to find a New Old Stock one, and they are about $100 bucks..!!
  5. bear351c

    Pissing me off

    Yeah........ I recently got hold of BA front and rear calipers and rotors, for the same reasons.
  6. bear351c

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Oh those gauges are awesome.! Tell me you're keeping them...
  7. bear351c

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Can't see the pics, but, I'm liking it....already.!
  8. Aaaah, so maybe a fresh start is needed. Rubber kit, line flush, drums machined and new shoes. Maybe check vacuum on the booster/check valve.??
  9. bear351c


    Cool, new project.! TE Cortina, F truck, XA coop..??
  10. Yeah, the old big, red bible. Double checked with my local AutoPro connection, he agreed. Doesn't list anything on their computer thats 19mm... If you're sold on using the 3/4 bore ones, could your local brake shop, sleeve them for you.?
  11. bear351c

    How to find manufacture date of battery

    From what I remember, the first number is the year, and the second letter is the month. (They don't use I as it gets confused as a number 1). So a 7D would be April 2007.
  12. Hmmm.......... all my info says 13/16" (20.64mm) All sedans, wagons, etc. P5748 cyl, repair kit K564S.
  13. I have a squizz at my old books.......
  14. bear351c

    How to find manufacture date of battery

    Been a while since I sold a battery, but, in SA they used to have 4 or 5 numbers engraved in the plastic top. . But, if you're unsure of the age, best replace both at the same time. They will charge/discharge more evenly.
  15. What are looking for, Dave.? 3/4' bore rear wheel cylinders.?? Seen 13/16", and 7/8", (P5744 I think) Could you use a generic trailer part P10046 for HQ or somesuch.?
  16. bear351c

    Xc drip rail repairs

    Expensive, but, Howard Astill.
  17. bear351c

    Rear seal

    Yup, thats that.....
  18. bear351c


    Plonk the hairdriers on the rear bumper, that's where the exhaust comes out anyway, then air intake tubes down the sides, ending up as a roll bar across the cab, and into the twin carbs...!
  19. bear351c

    Buzz over 2000 rpm

    Engine mounts, transmission mount, vee belt flapping, harmonic balancer stuffed, crank bent, exhaust leak, just to name a few..... really hard to diagnose a noise over the Internet. Does it buzz when you are in neutral and rev it to 2000?
  20. bear351c

    AU Series 3 Forte. Stalling

    Yep, not sure if AUIII had issues with fuel pump relays. Earlier models did. How does it idle.? Clogged fuel filter is best bet, I reckon. Ever run the tank empty.?
  21. bear351c


    Just for pure porn value, the 6/71 sticking out of the bonnet. Better value power, the twins.
  22. bear351c

    Cleveland lifters

    Or you could install the lifter bore bush kit in the Clevo. Involves machine work, but, should fix the problem for good. Wonder how much the TMeyer blocks are going for.. They apparently solved all of this with a new casting.
  23. bear351c

    Cleveland lifters

    Yeah, basically... think they also had screw in studs for the rocker gear, and screw in welsh plugs (core plugs) on the blocks.
  24. bear351c

    Cleveland lifters

    Cool. Have a look at the Crow or Crane catalogue, should be able to get one here in Oz. Comp, Lunati, Isky etc will prob come from overseas (may be hard to get at the moment) Crow do a budget version cam/lifter/retainers called Megatork, I think, and Crane do theirs as Blue Racer. Same cam billet, just brown paper packaging. Make sure you look at the cam specs for rev range (like 1,500 to 4,500 rpm) diff ratio, etc.. You need to change springs and retainers with some higher lift cams.
  25. bear351c

    Cleveland lifters

    Any other work done on the engine..? High compression, Stall speed, diff ratio, etc.. What do you want the engine to do? Drag Commy's off at the lights.? Cruise all day? Drive daily with reasonable fuel economy?