the miracle stick mechanic

Notes: There is absolutely no need to dismantle the steering box unless oil leaks are occurring . After removal, rotate from lock to lock until ALL the oil is expelled to prevent fluid friction affecting the adjustments . Removing preloads 1. Remove allen key plug #5 and undo the output shaft adjuster 2-3 turns anti-clockwise. 2. Loosen the locknut and undo the input shaft bearing adjuster #26 by 1/2 to 1 turns anti-clockwise. 3. Loosen the locknut and undo the power steering piston adjuster #10 by 1/2 to 1 turns . Now you are ready to make the three adjustments Note: The aim is to create some binding and friction as the input shaft passes through the straight ahead position from each side. But this friction should only be created by the final adjustment made on the output shaft. This helps the car to maintain a straight line course and prevents the steering from wandering . 1. The three adjustments are to be made while the steering is turned about a 1/4 turn away from the straight ahead position . This is because the steering box is designed to have freeplay when the steering wheel is turned away from the central position . 2. The steering box must be removed from the car to make the adjustments because the first two adjustments are critical and must not bring about any friction as the steering box passes through the straight ahead position . You will not feel the friction with enough sensitivity if you are turning the steering wheel with the box installed. This must be done by feeling with your hand as you rotate the input shaft one quarter turn either side of the straight ahead position (with the flexible coupling fitted ). 3. The three adjustments are the input shaft (the shaft connected to the steering wheel ), the power steering piston, and finally the output shaft (the shaft connected to the pitman arm) 4. The adjustments are made in the order mentioned directly above in point three. 5. The adjustments are made in this order because only the third and final adjustment made on the output shaft should introduce any friction as the input shaft passes through the straight ahead position 6. The input shaft adjustment is made the exact same way a wheel bearing is adjusted . ie. Tighten/preload the bearing adjustment nut and then back off slightly ensuring no friction is felt as the input shaft is turned after adjustment . 7. The power steering piston is adjusted clockwise until friction occurs as the box passes through the centre position . The adjustment must be made with the box turned 1/4 turn off centre in either direction . Then back it off until the friction is completely removed. But only just removed . 8. Finally, tighten the output shaft adjuster until a little bit of binding occurs as the box passes through the centre position . Make the adjustment whilst the box is turned 1/4 turn off-centre. You should be able to turn the box through the centre position using your hand to rotate the flexible coupling. It shouldn't be easy to turn through the centre position . And it shouldn't be hard to turn through the centre position . Find the middle ground .

1. Get a voltage reading at the positive terminal of the ignition coil with KOEO (key on engine off) It should be 90% of the battery voltage 2.Also, there should be a relay fitted for the fuel pump. Which will prevent it draining current from the ignition coil and so dropping the voltage measured above 3.Something to consider: When ignition switches fail they will only make intermittent contact between the terminals inside the switch 4. Measure the resistance of the primary and secondary coils of the ignition coil The primary coil is susceptible to burning out and becoming an open circuit In which case the resistance will be infinity

Yep, I thought you would know that and about Bearing blue to check the tooth contact. Rare pano you have there .

Hey m8, Dunno if it helps but > Many years ago , had to change ratio in two diffs from a new Ford Louisville . The final check on the pinion shaft shims was done by measuring the torque required to rotate the installed shaft. You could use a 1/4" torque wrench. But if my memory is correct I used a small spring balance and some string. Good to have another vanner onboard. There are not many on the road anymore.

They sell shorter bumpstops for lowered XG front end on ebay .

It is all that comes out when the front wheels are up on ramps. The temp sender is on the front edge of the pan. I also run two A/C fans and two engine fans , both with an override switches which I flick on if the auto is too warm. Heat and dirty oil destroys autos I read somewhere .

I fitted an transmission oil temp gauge. Both to use the sender as a drain plug and monitor overheating . About 1.5L is drained each time I change the engine oil as well .

Door buttons sluggish and stiff to move : For the door buttons to work properly and smoothly the rod connecting the latch to the outside door handle must be in tension when the handle is fully released. Additionally, the latch should be removed and soaked in oil overnight . This is achieved firstly, by fitting a motorcycle rear brake light switch spring ($4.00) to the outside handle lever inside the door .Alongside the weak standard spring . The outside door handle should snap back when released. Secondly , adjust the rod between the latch and the outside door handle. At the clip where it connects to the handle . For the rod to remain in tension when the outside door handle is released requires adjustment at the clip. The only freeplay at the door handle should be what exists in the door handle assembly alone.

Latch removal: 1.Remove door trim. 2.Disconnect Inner door handle rod at handle end only by removing M6 bolt. 3.Pull Outside door lock rod from plastic lever on the back of the key lock. 4.Unclip Outside door handle rod at handle end only. 5.Remove M6 bolt and remove lower section of the rear window runner by sliding it downwards . 6.Remove three M6 bolts fastening latch/lock mechanism to the door . 7.Before removing latch from inside the door remove only the inside door button lock rod at the latch end. 8.Leaving the other 3 operating rods attached remove the latch through the rear upper hole in the door frame. Soak the latch in oil overnight and do not remove the rods unless necessary . Reverse for installation .

Door only half closes: Operate the door latch mechanism while the door is open . By using a screwdriver shaft to close to latch. There must be a return spring resisting any rotation of the latch. Compare with a known working latch (on the other side ) for comparison . A broken return spring causes door to only half close. It will need to be yanked from the half closed position to close completely . XG has same latch as E-series. Only the central door lock solenoid connector rod hole is not used.