SLO247

Is indeed 1/4 NPT, turns out they are measured differently so very close in size.

1/4 NPT, makes more sense!

Seems to be 1/2" unf, seems a bit odd to me though that there is little available in that size other than sump plugs.

I got one out no worries, the machinist did the other as it was locked solid. I wanted to get the most out of the hot tanking. Need to know the size to get replacements. He drilled and used a snap on ezy out type of tool.

Anyone know what thread the coolant drain plugs are either side of the cleveland block? They are different to the oil gallery plugs, tried that already.

Either Dove Grey or Medium grey, check your trim code on the build plate. Nice car!

Thats the wrong way, that lip goes on the inside.

I'd happily use one. Without getting into a technical argument, I'd possibly go straight to the 4 barrel.

I've had a few of each and the EFI definitely goes better. They can have their issues but then the weber carbys do too. Changing the looms, tank and lines over is a decent job but certainly doable. You could probably even just use the carby lines, they are bigger anyway.

They never had cats so you wont need one. To be legal and "correct" you would need to just run all the emissions gear as factory. EGR, charcoal canister plumbed up etc.

I do have a known good ignition switch you can have for the price of postage if I can get it out in one piece, I'll have a look at it tommorow if you like. The inhibitor switches on C4s do fail, you can get new genuine from the states, same on all C4s I reckon. Get a helper to crank the car while you check the voltage on the trigger wire at the starter. If thats good I reckon solenoid or cable issue. If you dont have a good 12V at the trigger wire, go back to the plug for the inhibitor switch. The plug sits just behind the engine, has four wires. The two fat ones are for the starter trigger, one comes from the barrel and goes through the switch, the other one comes back from the switch. Bridge the terminals on the plug and see if that makes a difference, or just check whats there with the ignition switch in the start position. If that doesnt help, id go right back to the barrel and see if you're getting that 12V feed with the key turned. Just a process of finding where the signal is lost in the loom, if thats the issue. Good luck, pretty frustrating issue. Out of interest what sort of starter do you have on it?

Yeah the column is different, the wheel does indeed sit closer in an XD.

Genuine Bosch if you can get it, I don't believe there is any other quality replacement. Aftermarket ones also chew the aux shaft because the gear is machined wrong. If you're worried about reliability I'd get the Bosch one reconditioned. Now I sound like Sparky Dave! All I'd do is fit new cap rotor and TFI while its out and throw it in. They generally work forever. New coil too while its accessible.

The BBM will clear fine. Dizzy goes in the same spot, same cap and everything still.

Yeah those leads will be fine. I've had eagle one's a few times, been fine.