Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About macman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Perth WA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,640 profile views
  1. macman


    Before you remove the airbag, disconnect the battery completely for 24hrs beforehand. You will likely need a security bit to undo the two screws which hold the airbag in. If you don’t have a security bit, file a small notch out the centre of a flathead screwdriver or flathead bit, works too. A leather and woodgrain LTD steering wheel would be nice, much cheaper than a Momo generally and would suit your interior much better IMO. See my pic a bit earlier of my AU interior - that’s a woodgrain LTD wheel I had Re-trimmed to match my interior colour. Much nicer than the full leather wheel I reckon and still cost me less than a Momo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I have heard excellent feedback about the Chinese dynamat “jingping” or something it was called. Yep third of the price and the guy I was talking to reckoned it was awesome to reduce road noise, made the doors feel much more solid and he reckoned there was noticeable thermal insulative improvement also. I’ve used the adhesive backed stuff made for A/C droppers myself (for my firewall, internally). Hoping it works well (sounds like it should). But as for oil canning panels, I got nothing... I’ll sit back and watch (read). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. macman

    Project: Re-assembly!

    I’ll ask my Dad where he got those magnets from, they’re bloody awesome. There’ two small ones and two big ones and both have strong magnets on the front and back and they have positionable hinged “legs” so you can hold stuff at odd angles or on two different planes which has been super handy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. macman

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Gloss black arches should look good against the matt black, agreed. Going to look tough. How will they be attached? Do they have studs or do you just put some nuts and bolts through the wheel arch area? Will sikaflex be required? Bet that’s what Ford Aus would have done haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Inspiring work as always. I like the method used on that aerial patch piece. Wheel arch lip is a massive improvement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. macman

    Project: Re-assembly!

    Tonight I just finished off this top section. Reasonably good fit, should be able to finesse it as I weld it into place. Looks a bit like Swiss cheese at the moment with all the holes (most of which are for welds, three are to bolt in the actual wiper motor assembly). Pretty damn happy with it though, can’t wait to weld it in. Just sitting in place in the last pic. PROGRESS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. macman

    NZXD's XD money pit

    Wooo! Nice looking gearbox. Nice gear knob too, but isn't that single rail shift pattern? Or was toploader the same anyway? Fingers crossed for this weekend!
  8. macman

    Defective's xf pano...

    I wouldn't be able to tell the difference to be honest. Definitely 'normal' wagon leaf springs still though.
  9. macman

    Defective's xf pano...

    Good bit of kit that towbar. Also whiteline swaybar and monroe shocks. Some nice E-series wagon porn in this thread.
  10. Good bit of convo above - I concur with steve mcqueens rough calcs, based on whether you can do the work yourself or not. But interesting take on that opinion by 2redrovers with "why should there be two values" and of course there shouldn't be, which is where it gets interesting. The difference is definitely that one "value" is economical and the other "value" means you'll be overcapitalising. I think at 20k starting price it's too close to overcapitalising, meaning it's probably not worth that much, especially if you were considering doing the resto (either yourself or paying someone) to then on-sell. It wouldn't be worth the time and effort. I reckon 15k is more like its value (based on just the description and photos) - but then what's 5k when you're working on a car with the potential for 50k once done? 20k asking price, my bet is that it'll be advertised for some time before potentially selling... Everyone wants a bargain, but it's not going to be under 10k. 15k is an enticing starting price that would get people lining up, but probably 12k is a good realistic sale price at the end of the day. It'd probably sell easily for 12k. In other news - how good does a Landau look in Sandstone (?) with black vinyl roof!
  11. macman

    Original XD

    I love that trim, but unfortunately I can't help you in this case as I only have the tan, not the brown (inverted colours of what you have there). I will ask around for you though.
  12. macman

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Sucks about the wind, is there anything you can stand in the tray to act as a windbreak temporarily, might help just enough? First patch is a good fit. Second, not so much haha. Can you fill that gap with some zap zaps? Those last two pics - the one with the bog and the one with the surface rust... I reckon you're pretty good at this shit so cut both out and patch them both I say. I reckon you could spend equal amount of time properly converting/treating and bogging that you will cutting and welding. Looking good!!
  13. macman

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Some great info in here, cheers. Also that looks like a neat job on the CAD (haha) and the patches, good one!
  14. macman

    Original XD

    That thing is absolutely drool-worthy. Bloody hell how good does the orange look with the s-pack stripes and I love the rear louvre, so 80's. Is your trim the tan striped wool?
  15. macman

    Project: Re-assembly!

    Cheers for the praise, yeah I'm really happy with it so far. I just wish I had a bending brake now (even just a hand operated bench-top one). Would make folding a 30 second job as opposed to a half hour job. I just read through the XE thread of Kwik-E's and to say "impressive" would be an understatement. The rust repairs he's done on that XE ute in particular are just mammoth. Heh, bird shit welds, pllleeease! Thanks for the tips! Massively appreciated as usual. Hotter and less wire for those "plugs" makes sense. Thinking back, with the smaller hole it was just feeding a lot of wire and filling the hole, so it makes perfect sense now you say it. Will definitely try that next time I have a heap more plugs to weld, to attach the top "cap" angle section, so I will hopefully finesse it a bit more. Ideally I don't want to try and tidy-up or grind back any of the welds in this particular repaired area - won't be seen and I'm aiming for a neat enough repair that I don't need to grind it back... So hopefully some neater plugs from here... We'll see