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sticking this here for now, @SPArKy_Dave seen or got one of these tools? Ball Joint Lower looks fairly easy with this tool (link to ebay tool that looks posibly the one )

post your suggestion below, and I'll find some time to add them into the forum. there will be a detailed and specific AU section for sure, as i am a new owner and would like to see info easy to find for Myself any anyone else lucky enough to find themselves a non skidder classic to own and enjoy. so should we have an EA to ED, EF and EL and AU, BA BF and FG section added? is there any structure you'd like to see or just a facebook style rolling Q&A style for the moment (much easier initially for Me/admin to establish) Thanks for your time and input, Dean.

If anyone has any info tips or links to fitting cruise control to a forte series 3 AU (has ABS) I'd be interested before I go investigating at the wreckers. I don't remember seeing the clock spring socket for cruise buttons (has radio controls on steering wheel) are they cruise specific? What actually is needed? 1.Blinker stalk has the on/set switch so a combination stalk with wagon specific will be needed for mine unless it can be separated? 2. Steering wheel control buttons (wheel back cover has cut outs for the buttons to poke through) 3. Brake switch on master cylinder 4 cable and vacuum motor assy (and tap threads in rocker cover for cable bracket) 5.loom section that joins cable pull motor and brake switch that goes into the cabin under dash 6. Control module (assume under dash left side of steering column? ) Anything else? Series 2 and 3 needed. Series one is different but is that just the control moduel or everything different? Thanks for any input and I'll update when I figure it out

depends i guess. if it was mine i'd probably chuck another engine in. @Thom may know if a bore could crack from it, i'd expect it possible, so therefore having the engine block crack tested might be something to do. i wouldn't expect anything else, but i also don't know heaps about this issue.

bent con rods are likely. there might be a way to check by dipping something down the spark plug holes and rotating the engine by hand. if one or 2 are lower on each top of the stroke position then bent conrod is confirmed.

the bonus with setting up for AU engine.. is if it needs another down the track, they are far more common currently, without head gasket issues.. would be interesting to see the cost differences.. assuming the engine wasn't fubar in the XG (rust from sitting with blown head gasket/full of water for months/years?) but this was initially done with an AU engine with intent for BARRA down the track, hence the tuff mounts sway bar ($400 ish, also clears the AU sump) what else needs buying? (i'll add prices from Jollys price list later when i have time) Belt.. probably similar cost to an EF -AU belt anyway. $40 to $60 XH air con bracket and compressor $ XH tensioner $ AU alternator used.. $50 ish bit of splice with radiator hose to neck it down to the AU water pump outlet size. (probably is an adapter for it to buy) $ intake gasket needed $

it seemed a risk, for not much extra an AU alternator was purchased and will be plug n play. the 6PK2460 belt was purchased from repco ($20 dearer, but had the option to return if it didn't fit)

So that BA alt won't work in XG in 2 wires? What's the loom for? Xg engine is cooked. Glazed bores head needs machining...$4000 reco? $172 for the AU engine that has an MLS gasket fitted seems cheaper even with the custom bits

Thread revival on this, I've chatted to Thom, and might make a separate conversion thread section as it's been a big read to get the basic needs for just a later engine swap I'll update this with more once it's fitted within the next few weeks., EA to EL engines are getting rarer in the wreckers, and this AU engine was chosen due to listed low kms (176,000) and AU head gasket is better than a risk on anything older possibly cooked due to head gasket issues. a mate of mine is about to (hopefully) put an AU series 2 engine in an XG current parts gathering and testing has got the engine mounted with the following. (BA alt mounts same as AU2/3 and he had it on a barra engine he was considering using) AU2 engine XG dissy XH air con bracket XH air con compressor(need custom hoses to work on XG?) XH belt tensioner BA alt(because he had it) AU spec water pump and power steering will have XG exhaust manifold and XG intake XG thermostat housing/temp sender Tuff mounts Sway bar for AU/BA some notes @SPArKy_Dave might be able to confirm? will this patch loom allow a BA alternator to be used in an XG with AU 2 engine, or an AU 2/3 car?https://www.efisolutions.com.au/3-pin-alternator-patch-harness?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhJL2pKHnigMVVw6DAx0rLzuREAQYASABEgLvzfD_BwE Belt is yet to be confirmed, but it might need to be a custom length, however after looking up the sizes. estimated after measuring this seems a close size 6PK2480 6PK2690 EL V8 shown in pics below way too big. 6pk2380 AU Belt appears way too short when tested 6PK2400 XH belt also too short when tested 6PK2510 AU VCT (likely to be tested soon, will update this shortly) some photos that might help when i redo the conversion thread. Thom's engine back from page 1 XH air con bracket from today's conversion the set up that would work if you were running a BBM (broad band manifold from EF to AU ) log manifold doesn't clear the air con pump this is the XH air con bracket and pump and tensioner with the log manifold from XG basically the above with front view (V8 belt fitted just to check the belt path doesn't cross the intake on throttle body)

interesting, A mate of mine's Dad's AU ute has an EL trans, and he's about to fit an AU trans in an XG (using XH transmission loom) wonder what's actually different. i'll reply here if he finds any issues with this combo. (assume the AU with EL trans used all the AU stuff though)

what electronics do you mean for this Thom?

depending how rusty and how far you want to go? not sure what you mean about running a buff over them? is the paint in good condition? could just steel wool them and clear coat them even. if I've painted wheels black or silver in the past, i just wire wheel them for all the flaky rusty dust off, (hard to get in the tight spot between the wheel center and the rim edge, if you have worse rust in there, perhaps a rust remover would be worth doing, see below for rust remover ideas) i just wire wheel them, then sand the paint smooth (feather the edges so the chips/scratches don't show as easy). you'd sand more if you wanted a better finish. if going black or silver, the killrust/white knight epoxy paints are the go.. will be pretty much 2 or 3 light coats and done.. if you are doing the "silver wheels" acrylic, or the steel blue same colour of the car etc in acrylic, then you'll need to etch prime etc for the bare metal etc. if you were going a bit further, then you can do your own vinegar water soak in a wheelie bin even or other container the wheels fit in. or if you have money to spare, there's plenty of places doing hydro blasting or sand/media/soda blasting.

the relays have contacts inside that can get tarnished etc. even just unplugging them(the flexing etc) might be enough to help them back to life again. at least you know a bit more about them in the process, that's basically how i learned everything i know.. fixing broken things

only thing i knew about were the 2 relays under the bonnet near brake booster (green one and grey one.. fuel pump relay and ecu relay) no idea about a fuse, i haven't played with efi x series enough (deliberately chose carby versions for 15yrs )

I recently decided to do this Job myself.. until i stumbled upon a retrimmed headliner at the wreckers, so just bought it and swapped it. I first removed My old one, because My plan was to drive to the wreckers without it and fit it in the carpark (would barely fit in the car any other way) using the videos below as how to's, i managed to remove the old one fairly confidently, and then at the wreckers i got the reconditioned one out in less than 20mins.(didn't time it, but didn't break anything, and used a screwdriver to lever out the plastic plugs, no fancy trim tool) I haven't got to fully refitting the new one in, been focussing on other jobs, but it's in and holding itself up. in My wagon, the headlner had a sunglasses holder(broken) and the new one didn't have the map lights or sunglasses holder.. and i decided not to mess with it. the BA style sunglases holder is double the price of an AU one on ebay ($200 Vs $100 ish) so be careful if messing with either, as the BA style one that was in my series 3 AU crumbled on removal.

This is a trial thread, as many X series owners also have modern fords. and info is starting to be harder to come across. What i'd like to do here, is begin a useful reference to certain common issues with links to other forum topics or Facebook groups or YouTube etc. As a new owner of an AU, i found it quite difficult to find easy to follow steps on things without a lot of time googling and searching. such as, how to remove a headliner so it can be either dropped off at a trimmer, replaced with a second hand one or retrimmed yourself. this post is locked, and i'll start a suggestion box thread next.

I've had that sandwich plate rubbing before on a clevo/C4 combo. definitely worth checking. I'd also tip water over the fan/alternator belts, as silly as it sounds i've had them causing noises that sound nothing like you think

This is a great write up with photos showing all that's needed. I'd feel confident tackling this job now after reading this. Thanks for the tips with the calliper resting, I usually tie them up with wire to the spring or similar but i hadn't even thought of that toolbox idea. I wonder if I have a 36mm socket? Maybe if that's what the x series caster rod nut size is..

unless someone here has one, the facebook groups are best for specific parts. XD might be similar/same but i wouldn't bet on it. beware of scammers on those pages. ask for photos ideally with the persons id or something, (not some googled pic) before sending any money. there are a few wreckers that i'd specifically ask, but they may not have currently, but they may contact you if it turns up. Scotty Sutton (XDF Wreck) https://www.facebook.com/@ScottySuttonsXDFwreck/ first choice for Me. and Rusty Ford wreckers https://www.facebook.com/rustyfordwreckers

if it is for a V8, the 6cyl loom is the same other than the air con wire being too short. the coil wires on the 6cyl can be unwrapped and are long enough to go to the factory V8 coil location also.

if you like reading, this is a great thread with lots of info on the various crossflows. the later ones, can fit the EF crank in it. i'll reply to your other thread in a simpler form i

usually a vacuum leak causes high idle, but it wouldn't usually setting down when warm if so. if it doesn't run rough, it's likely issue would be throttle body area, idle air control valve perhaps. (i'm no expert on these "new cars" though) hopefully @SPArKy_Dave or someone else has time to give you some better suggestions.

they definitely did, but i can't find a pic on google either

this should be a warning to anyone who's bought one, considering buying or has currently chewed out their "spud" adapter with a Barra ZF6 speed into landcruiser..

Yep that's the one. And on the passenger side of an ohc six engine block near the dizzy if you are finding one from a wreckers or donor car. Be aware the base models will be a switch on/off for the light. The s pack etc are a bigger unit that varies the guage