deankxf

have you seen the T5 adapting to 3 speed/4 speed bell housing? there's a thread on it here (the XG bell housing won't fit, well are you doing the XG engine, if so, then no issue, it will go in no problem) change the speedo gear to the one that matches the diff in the car (3 speed one should fit the T5, just clips off.. keep the old t5 gear for the XG diff if doing it later) tailshaft yolk might be different from 3 speed if manual (auto on the tree, going to need a different bell housing also, but the tailshaft would fit the T5)

yeah you can get "HUB CENTRIC" inserts for wheels or the hubs depending on what's available. the XG front discs could be a direct fit to the front of an XB.. the diff will be a direct bolt in, will need a brake nut change at the T piece on the diff if using the XB hose from the body to the diff. or you can get an adapter to go from imperial to metric and use the XG T piece hose (20yrs newer ) hand brake cable will need mods/remade or POSSIBLY an EB sedan one might fit?(seen them into XD, but not older) XG diff is as wide as the XB one, possibly slightly wider though. XG diff has 28 spline axles and XB 25 spline, nothing will interchange on those diffs to my understanding.

if you don't care about keeping the drums on the rear, the XR to XY diffs are narrower (might need a different universal joint, we fitted one to an ZG fairlane about 30yrs ago from an XR and it had different diff yoke, which can be swapped over also to the XB type) as for max fitment? no idea, but the rear can be narrower with a diff swap

@Joe XE My neighbor bent an XD one successfully, just by hand i would bet also. (hollow for horn button) make sure you are supporting the base part, or you'd just break all the switch part inside. (rare now also) when he fitted an XE XF steering wheel to an XD . I'd say the XD column is shorter, but i've never measured one, and it wouldn't me much, possibly 30mm only .

if you have the correct speedo sender ( 8 pulse XD XE black, for pre XFs and the 10 pulse red one for XF to AU)

i haven't heard of it. but wouldn't rule it out, same for valiant, as valiants, and leyland P76 also used a single rail gearbox. and the 4cyl cortina that had a 3.77 diff ratio that might need a bigger gear. (and vice versa, haven't heard of a ford speedo setup being used in a torana etc. if you google FORD T5 or FORD single rail into torana, it's a popular conversion using custom bell housing, you might see posts of speedo relevance?)

If you can get a 23 tooth that should be close from what I heard 20years ago (basic rules for them when I had My XD and XEs ) They may not be available, you can get a digital speedo corrector also from Dakota digital from memory, and other brands. See what's available gear wise as the black speedo senders (8 pulse) are rare now which would drop it 20% for certain if you could get one

sounds about 20% out, is the cable on the sender RED or BLACK, (what car also) if it's an XD or XE with a RED coloured speedo sender cable outer, it's an XF - AU one with is 20% more pulses than the Black XD XE one.. to slow it down, you need more teeth, (should say what teeth is on it? like 19 or 20, if it is 19 then 1 tooth difference makes about 10% difference and 2 teeth 20% difference, (21 tooth is required most likely.. if it's already got a 21 tooth? then you likely have the wrong sender in my opinion

depending how worn out the whole thing is.. i had my first one 30yrs ago with the shifter housing worn where the selector rail goes in (bushes were fitted if it didn't have any, and the shaft was turned down a bit on a lathe as it was also worn) this could be the for and aft movement you mention. the side to side and for and aft wear is often due to the "horseshoe bush" but some single rails never had them, and were metal on metal (would be hard to fix) the old way for a shorter throw was to cut the shifter down, but someone has made a short throw for these now (mentioned on this site, but i haven't seen anyone who's bought one yet. ) personally i'd prefer to repair what's there and leave the shifter standard length. i'd be more inclined to make sure the gearbox is in good condition first, and replace the selector shaft seal (requires extension housing to be removed)

well i bought one from pick a part that had more cracks in other places, and then realised the dial for the vents was stuff and sus.. so i chose to leave all the spaghetti hoses hooked up and glue it back in situ, afterall, the vacuum stuff worked before this cable holder broke. first joined the broken bits back with regular super glue, then basted them with 2 part epoxy araldite stuff(said metal repair, fake JB weld i was hoping.. was given it a while back) not overly trusting the glues, i decided to strip the plastic of some bag tie wires, and wrap wire around it, then glue it some more.. still tempted to clip the cable onto it and then goop it all with silastic also.. (the cable is unhooked behind the glovebox now, this is what's needed before removing that center radio/heater control panel. )

TO BE CONTINUED (when i repair what i broke, trying to fix the clock globe) CRUMBOLIUM (is what i'm calling the plastic housing on the back of the heater controls) * be super careful and only remove if necessary after reading the below. it took me looking in every AU at Pick a part, 4 remaining broken ones to piece together another cracked heater control that might work (mine only has a broken cable mount, so i may not even use it yet as it's unknown if it will work on the other parts) i'll add some more photos in the next week now, you probably SHOULDN'T need to remove this cable behind the glovebox normally, but that's only because when new, the cable holder was strong enough to unclip without breaking. it's similar to the XF type, but instead of a metal clip that flies off and gets lost, it flips up(quite tightly clipped down, lever with a small screw driver to flip it up from the sides) the other clip to the right is released by pushing the small screw driver over the cable outer and under the bitey bit of the clip and levering it out until it pushes the cable out. (image below was from a helpful facebook group member that took a video of it) the facia, which i'll detail a bit further when i go in to fix it again will be able to swing out further without breaking as easily (if not already broken) DEAR ON EBAY (sold prices below)

I'm going to assume they are the same, But when I've done the eb diff I would have used the XF bar because I didn't get an EB one with the diff, and the wagon EB diff I fitted to my ute also didn't have a sway bar so it didn't get one (ute doesn't have one)

i had a quick look through that, I've never known one to be different, but anything's possible with Ford i guess.

odd, i've never seen a different clutch plate needed unless it was for the 3 speed or the rubbish 3.3gearboxes (mitsubishi sigma box in 4 or 5 speed i believe ) i'd just count the one on yours

I'd disagree with that screenshot info wonder if @Thom or @SPArKy_Dave could help confirm it, they are all same as whatever a T5 is (pretty sure it's 10 spline)

XB to XF sedan tailshafts would be the same for bw35,bw40 (auto) C4/C10, single rail and T5 manual.. you'd be able to use yours. FMX and top loader have different spline count on the tailshaft yoke.. clutch splines are the same from my understanding single rail to T5 (not sure on the V8 one but betting it's same) the 3 speed had different splines into the clutch (input) and the top loader one might be different?(no idea) 6cyl didn't have 20 spline input, well unless the sigma style 3.3 litre box had that much on it, it's super rare by comparison and is bolted to the bell housing from the inside .. and would barely handle a 250 crossflow let alone a V8..

E series XR8 would likely put the gear stick back further, and require a fair pain in the ass. the V8 e series box has a much longer input shaft than the single rail/top loader. there's a thread or 2 here where people have fitted the T5 from XF to EL (EB onwards are better/with synchro on reverse) and i've had one also on a 6cyl bell housing, that would be how i'd go into an X sereis, it comprises Top loader or single rail bell housing, clutch/flywheel, and modding the bell housing a bit (few different ways, also Castlemaine Rod Shop did a bell housing also back in the day, still available, not sure what it translates to NZ dollarydoos with postage and conversion https://www.rodshop.com.au/bellhousing-kit-gearbox-ford-t5-6-cyl-engine-cleve ) check this thread out, there should be links to others

I'll skip joining another group, there's often a lot of smart helpful people on these private facebook groups, so you probably got some valid feedback. the single rail i used was from a cortina, i had to swap the extension housing to the falcon type, i chose it because it had the easiest 1st gear for the 2.92 diff gears i had. (i had a 351 single rail on a 250 crossflow years earlier, and 1st gear with the 2.92 diff seemed to go close to 80kmh, but it was a hard start on a hill. hard to know what box i'd choose these days, all manuals are rare, worn and expensive.

Sorry i've been out all day, the clutch fork on the drivers side is odd, I've never seen a cable type V8 single rail bell housing, but that's likely what it is. does it have a mount for the hydraulic slave on the passenger side? that's usually where the V8 ones were, with a push fork (compact) yeah as dvfalcon mentioned, change the selector shaft seal at minimum, you'll need to remove the extension housing to change it, after knocking the roll pin out of the remote shifter shaft. the gearsticks can pull out, but there are many aftermarket repair kits now, and some in brass which weren't around when i had single rails. (should be nice) also someone here (newer member last year) posted that they do a short shift kit for them also. i actually like these boxes, but when i slapped a second hand one behind my almost stock 351 i blew it up in a couple of weeks, got another and blew that up in days, and another went noisy in a week.. so had one fully rebuild and it didn't die with 80,000 HARD kms , so i'd suggest putting bearings in it at minimum. ( i was told to use motor oil in mine, but the book said to use trans fluid, so who knows what/if there's any difference in them in that regard?)

@Thom might have some idea on the single rail number, but if it came on a 302, it will have ratios similar to the 6cyl ones. only the 351 had the tall 1st gear. (close ratio) either way, the box is otherwise the same, will handle the power, and 3.23 isn't too extreme for the normally 2.92 ratio the other boxes had (351 used the 3.23 ratio only from memory) the brake booster that causes issues is only on the fairlane and LTD from my memory, it's a big diameter one that blocks the mounting for the clutch master. the 6cyl one will be fine.

bumper trim? if it's anything like the junk i bought for My window surrounds, it didn't last more than a few years. i'd try a different brand if buying it again. its' just plastic isn't it?

i guess the next question is how fast it's going to be going before it needs to stop and how often? I've never raced one, so no idea how they go or if better pads/slotted rotors are much better as with braided lines and race brake fluid.. @Rod Racer is setting up a race car AU currently but was considering an XE/F but can't remember what brakes he had planned, perhaps he would have some useful info for track days and brakes.

only difference with the V8 was rear discs, Vented on XE XE (even though EB V8s had solid discs) some say the V8s had PBR front calipers (iron ones like XC) but I've seen the Girlock (basically XF ones) on V8 cars also, and believe they are basically same performance wise. XE Ghia had rear discs 250crossflow standard (same with fairlane/LTD) they were basically V8 brakes other than the potential different front calipers(older Vs Newer) Hoppers stoppers do a "big brake" kit, which uses bigger rotors and AU series 2/3 or BA calipers from memory (could be commodore for all i know) these may need bigger wheels than 15" you'd then at minimum need a proportioning valve as the fronts will over power the rears i would imagine. very expensive, how fast are you going to be going?

spot welded and stitch welded, will need welding

they aren't stuck on as well as you'd think. they should be. if you can beat it back into position and weld it back on securely it's probably fine. (i bent a caster rod and lower control arm once, and it didn't pull that part off surprisingly) i'd avoid parts sold by suzuki super on ebay.. other than just cheap parts are probably crap, i'd be more inclinde to see what's stuffed and ONLY change what's worn out . idler arm, probably all just as crap as the next one from any brand.. tie rods usually aren't shagged, if they aren't moving keep them.. upper and lower ball joints, i've heard the WASP ones are the better cheapies. REPCO branded ones were supposedly good if you want to buy from a shop, or 555 brand or TRW being the better brands.