deankxf

i wouldn't be surprised if it's smaller and lighter than than AU wagon, and with less power. (6 cyl EA wagon would have been pretty similar in power and overall weight i reckon) yeah that car yard did a lot of shonky stuff as with many at the time, rust? we can buff that out, grinder, bog paint. cross fingers it's good for a month or so the other thing was the finance companies they dealt with, My mate due to no credit history, $4000 car with $200 trade in (they probably bumped the trade in value up and increased the sale price to get the finance through.. and was like $10k by the time it was paid off and the car didn't last the life of the loan ..(P plater plus abuse = trashed car in 12 months)

My mates first car over 30yrs ago, a ZG fairlane bought from a car yard with RWC had stuff so rooted, it chewed tyres out on the front in very little time, and what we didn't know then would have been how to check what was loose or stuffed. when you looked at it from the front, it was towed out and negative camber.. put it in reverse and back up 6 feet and the wheels would toe in and camber to approx zero.. you can imagine the driving experience of that one lol.

I'm 99.99% sure they'd be same due to i used my XE ones in My brothers 1991 EB falcon, and possibly all the trailing arms too

on My bucket list, is the moto sparkydave lives by.. keep it stock, and work on more important/enjoyable things (you'd barely be able to enjoy the power of a stock EF these days if you were being a hoon, fuel prices and cops and the risk of breaking something else is always in the back of My mind)

an EF/EL engine is a direct fit to My understanding (change the intake) and air con bracket with your current one and bolt it in. does it need changing anyway? they are usually good for 500,000kms with a head resurface and reasonably well looked after.

wonder if that's the one @SPArKy_Dave has?

no idea about scanners at all, but i do know many can work with other cars with a simple adapter (the one my mate used, had about 10 adapters with it)

I think in @Thom Thoms 4.0 thread, it mentioned the air con pump won't fit with the XH log manifold(intake) sump is bulkier (alloy) and may require the front brace on the k frame moved also ? see if Thom replies, he had similar in his XH once.

SLY250 (slydog's ute) goes to 7000rpm with a heap of mods (250 crossflow) i had an XE panelvan many years ago with a big cam that was a pig until about 2500rpm then hauled to 5500rpm(would been better with a manual and 3.45 diff) yeah annoying with car ads, try selling one, just as annoying. i like the "tow and go" type cams, the old days the "upgrade" to a stock engine was fitting the EFI spec cam, it's slightly bigger than stock. worn timing chains make a gutless issue also, i have had GOOD stock crossflows back in the day (20+ years ago) anything these days with 250,000kms ish is likely due for a freshen up, but they do rattle away for another 100,000 without much fuss and even beyond

yeah back in the day i did notice i got better economy from 98 by about the difference in cost, but i believe it's tunable to run on 91 if needed still. what i think could be causing the pinking is sharp edges on the head chamber, or carbon. (or just advanced too much anyway) 91 rattled it's head off in My ute which i advanced the timing heaps for LPG, so i had 95 in the tank for that reason., 95 seems plenty good if you can get it.

yeah i'd assume 9.35 ish would be fine. interesting the efi which was quick by comparison had lower compression ratio than the carby ones. i'd just be saying to the engine builder, i want it to be happy on 91 with no issues. because paying for 98 or HAVING to use it can be a pain.

I wouldn't bother doing that, it's not going to be a restriction that makes any noticeable difference. the cam and valve springs are the power limiters stock, the only reason i'd do it, is if i was sus that it was on it's way(rattling) and therefore it won't be a problem blocking the exhaust like i had twice in 20yrs (likely from going bush and hitting rocks with it) you've probably heard the acronym KISS (keep it simple stupid) i prefer KISS (keep it STOCK stupid ) these days.

carby model? unleaded 1986 that came in, an EST computer in the kick panel. it didn't control anything to do with fuel octane to My understanding. they'll run on 98 no issue, but if it's more of a stock engine you are planning on with fuel prices these days i'd keep it safe to run on 91 anyway. even a GOOD mild crossflow won't be as quick as most new hyundais etc. i don't know the compression ratios that came out stock, but i'd imagine they vary a lot between the different models (crossflows in XFs ran to 1993 with carby and same computer in the kick panel) i'd bump it up slightly from stock for a bit of improvement with very little risk of issues on 91, speak to the engine builder, they may just say the bigger bore and reco will be enough to make it spritely again.

yeah none of that makes sense to me above either. suffice to say i'm avoiding any of these "modern" cars built from 1993 onwards ideally. i

any update @Searley

sounds like you have a 6cyl tacho ? and possibly 3.5 ratio diff 4000 definitely doesn't sound right (unless it has a massive hi stall converter also ?) even 4.11 diff ratio would only be about 3400rpm in my calculations

great to hear the exhaust went well, and sounds how you like it, i'm always nervous getting something new on that i hadn't heard before. can you chuck some rubber backed carpet on the grass/gravel for better traction and roll it up afterwards (use it in the garage for comfort even?)

removing the steering column was how i thought you would do it. that would give you access (not needing to telescope the end) unplug the wiper loom, blinker loom and ignition loom, and undo the 10? screws you probably cut your hand on undoing the rag joint bolts, and the 2 or 3 under the pedal box and the column should come out (i haven't done it for 20yrs so check @CHESTNUTXE thread for a pic of it removed) might be doable then? the way to undo these is to strike the drag link on full lock with the nut loosened(not removed, so it protects the threads when you miss) or you can get wedge type separators for tie rods(size that will be) or ball joints *I've never used them. crap video i found with google to show how on a ball joint

looks on first glance like an XH spare wheel winch part but the number doesn't come up in google etc For auction is a Ford Nos XD bracket. Part number is XD-17C792B. Have no idea what this is. Can't say I've seen one before. Have had no luck in researching the part number. A mate of mine thought it may have something to do with station wagons. Please do your research before bidding to ensure suits your needs. Item is in great condition. Please use pictures to form part of the description. Combined postage offered other parts listed

it will self bleed, but you only need to crank the engine for a second or so and the pump will need topping up again, so do that a few times so the pump doesn't run dry (they can get noisy if running with no fluid for longer than 10 seconds even) good question the silly question is one that isn't asked (that's what our trade school teacher taught us anyway)

that's possibly stuffed because the steering column is further back than it should be. (needs tapping down/levering down so the rag joint is not distorted) i can't remember on the power steering ones, i think they bolt in from the centre of the shaft @SPArKy_Dave to the rescue again. probably is doable in the car if so. but i'm not sure if there's any traps to look out for (aka should it be in the straight ahead position or full lock when doing the nut up etc)

Coil is a common thing to shut down when hot. that would be the first thing i'd swap. if the coil is HOT when it conks out, that would be enough for Me to swap it. if it's cool, then maybe look elsewhere, does it fire up again soon after or need to wait for something to possibly cool down?

i saw this pop up on My youtube, and he looks like he does most of the work with only one arm even. My rule, if it's not broken, don't fix it keep it stock (why would you fit a FG engine? just fit another BA engine or buy an FG car when the BA is stuffed?)

good luck with the sale, I've given up on several cars that did My head in over the years. right thing to do at the time, and i rarely remember them unless i see one for sale 10times the price i sold it for.

They will work but not be working properly as far as I know. ( my brother had an eb series 1 with auto ecu due to the 5 speed conversion was from an EA centrepoint injection car so he couldn't use that ecu) I think the main issue is it will idle at higer revs