Lord_fahrquhar

Members
  • Content count

    2,917
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    34

Lord_fahrquhar last won the day on September 25 2016

Lord_fahrquhar had the most liked content!

3 Followers

About Lord_fahrquhar

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

37,962 profile views
  1. Chestnut youre doing fucking awesome on this.
  2. Pink one that’s pin 87 yellow will be pin 30z yellow will be hot all the time red green will the the thing that activates the relay
  3. Tap the wires in the engine bay. Most of the yellow ones near the battery will be 12v live and the relays near the master cylinder there should be one around there that is 12v switched just don’t use the 85/86 pins as ya feed
  4. Msd you’re not stuck with the factory hardware, which coil wise is a bit average. They tend to spark more consistently at high rpm also. Once ya done start with a fixed timing map - say 28 degrees flat everywhere. Might be hard to start so set base timing below 1000rpm to 10-15 degrees on crank. This should get it running but here are some basics. make incremental improvements focussing on one area of the map at a time - light load, cruise and full vacuum. dont get up it until you feel it can take it. take notes - noting how much throttle you’re jamming into it and rpm. This will give you the areanof the map to focus on. Drive it focussing on these areas don’t make rapid changes on full load only increase timing incrementally and if it pings take 2-3 degrees out straight away. on overrun (coasting down) you can wind more advance into it - lean mixtures take a bit more advance so you can push the advance a bit more - from the factory there can be up to 40 degrees on the ohc motors at this point. This will help with stopping the pop and banging on overrun. At moderate speeds and light loads you want to wind in some timing. I’m around 20 degrees at 12hg at 1200 rpm hitting 32-33 degrees by 2000. This helps economy and the ability of the motor to respond. If I increase load rapidly I wind the timing back to protect the motor to 28 degrees but this depends on compression and size of your cam. know this seems daunting but start slow and get rose to make notes as you drive it. You’ll get a feel for where it needs more and less timing as a result modify your map slowly. Generally if it’s bogging and sluggish more timing if it’s pinging less timing if your loading it up increase timing slowly to your max level at a given rpm if you’re lifting off increase timing if your in the mid range advance it to the max limit you set more rapidly.
  5. I’m with Thom... youll be doing a rebuild shortly. Easier to fix it now properly. Saves labor too. and it costs nothing to put something nicer in there but being efi anything bigger than a bees dick and it will drive shit.
  6. One was enough
  7. Broken crank bolts in a crank give me the shits
  8. Had a girlfriend like that once
  9. Nah you have to change it to boaty mcboatface
  10. Keep as is. stealth. Rozzer wont be looking at that
  11. Just use silicon and just a smear
  12. Got a rustcedes with some
  13. Ef will tow a car trailer with nothing on it, just put it in 3rd only. if you’re going to put something on said trailer then it needs a seperate tow cooler. Again use 3rd. if you’re going to load it up then you need cooler and tow hitch. ideally something with a 3500kg tow rating would be better- most new dual cabs will do this. failung that call a towie for a cashie Safe’s all the fuck around hiring shit and nodding the car to do it
  14. So long as your xd identifies with being an esp as you have to ask it first, otherwise it will go all emo on you and call itself an xf.
  15. Requited for no reason... Merry Christmas