Msd you’re not stuck with the factory hardware, which coil wise is a bit average. They tend to spark more consistently at high rpm also.
Once ya done start with a fixed timing map - say 28 degrees flat everywhere. Might be hard to start so set base timing below 1000rpm to 10-15 degrees on crank.
This should get it running but here are some basics.
make incremental improvements focussing on one area of the map at a time - light load, cruise and full vacuum.
dont get up it until you feel it can take it.
take notes - noting how much throttle you’re jamming into it and rpm. This will give you the areanof the map to focus on.
Drive it focussing on these areas don’t make rapid changes on full load only increase timing incrementally and if it pings take 2-3 degrees out straight away.
on overrun (coasting down) you can wind more advance into it - lean mixtures take a bit more advance so you can push the advance a bit more - from the factory there can be up to 40 degrees on the ohc motors at this point. This will help with stopping the pop and banging on overrun.
At moderate speeds and light loads you want to wind in some timing. I’m around 20 degrees at 12hg at 1200 rpm hitting 32-33 degrees by 2000. This helps economy and the ability of the motor to respond.
If I increase load rapidly I wind the timing back to protect the motor to 28 degrees but this depends on compression and size of your cam.
know this seems daunting but start slow and get rose to make notes as you drive it. You’ll get a feel for where it needs more and less timing as a result modify your map slowly.
if it’s bogging and sluggish more timing
if it’s pinging less timing
if your loading it up increase timing slowly to your max level at a given rpm
if you’re lifting off increase timing
if your in the mid range advance it to the max limit you set more rapidly.