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gerg last won the day on July 25

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    I think it might be to do with engine placement of the V8 vs 6, or parts availability of the V8 bellhousing (Mustang). The difference in input length is 5/8” (16mm) I believe. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    The question I had for you@Thom was what flywheel tooth count did the later E-series Windsors have? I seem to remember you saying that the BTR auto ones had the 164 tooth flexplate like a clevo (and were 50oz vs clevo 28) but were the manuals also 164 tooth or 157 (like the other small Windsors)? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg


    So the last one went out (besides your own project)? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Can I remove the battery?

    I'd just leave it in there, wouldn't worry about it every 3-4 days, more like 2 weeks and run it for 15-20 min each time (to get the engine warm and to charge it up). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    Should do, like I say, Ford small block bell pattern should be a no-brainer. Sounds like the bell is from an 80s F-truck. Although my search says it's for a 4-speed (maybe SROD?) If they happen to have the same gearbox pattern as a T5, you might be ok but not sure about input shaft length. E4 = 1984 TA = Truck 7505 = part number for bellhousing DA = revision Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    What 6 cyl T5 housing are you referring to? If it's the Aussie one, no it won't bolt to a V8. I believe the later US 250s used a V8 bolt pattern but I don't think they ever had T5s behind them. It would be handy to know if they actually did though. Later 289s, 302s, 351Ws and 302/351Cs and some very early 400s all use the small block bellhousing pattern, and are all interchangeable, except for very early 221/260/289s which had a 5-bolt mounting but they're so rare now that it doesn't even matter. What is important to get right is the flywheel tooth count. The flywheel and bellhousing have to match, otherwise the starter will be in the wrong spot to suit the flywheel diameter. If you happen to get a bellhousing with a starter mount on the passenger side, you may have header/manifold clearance issues with conventional pipes. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg


    Even in trans-am racing, with a 5 litre size limit, the Chev DZ 302 vs Boss 302 (ie: apples for apples), the Ford had a 20hp advantage in race trim. Holdener built factory-correct test motors of each and the Ford made more power with much less cam. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg


    That pretty much goes for any build on an engine more than 30 years old though Bear, they simply weren't made with the metallurgy, and the aid of cad and stress test modelling like they are now. I don't know where one should draw the line as to when an engine design is no longer considered original... What would you call a factory 351W block with CHI heads, Eagle crank and rods, forged pistons, roller cam conversion, tunnel ram manifold, dry-sumped, serpentine belt drive... Is it a Clevor? It doesn't have actual Clevo heads though. But because it's a block cast in a Ford plant, it's still legit, despite nothing else being factory? It's a very grey area that I struggle to deal with myself. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    I think@Thom might have to chime in here. My understanding was that from EB V8 onwards, the longer input box was used. I always thought that 302 Windsors used a 157 tooth flywheel and bell (post 1965) but have since learnt that at least the aussie auto versions in the E-series used a 164 like clevos do. Now I can't say whether the manuals are 157 or 164 but whichever it is, will need the corresponding bellhousing. Make sure you have the right imbalance flywheel. Pre-1980 use 28 oz, after that it was 50. I had a similar issue adapting my EA T5 to my clevo. Input length was fine, but single rail bellhousings don't have a big enough mounting pad for the lower holes on the T5 to drill and tap for. So I went with a toploader bell that was for an F-truck with mechanical linkage clutch, and I had to make my own slave cylinder mount bracket. The outside of the snout (the bit that locates in the big hole in the bellhousing) has to be machined down 1.5mm to fit the toploader/single rail diameter. I looked for ages at the time, but there just wasn't a T5 bell that bolted up to a clevo or Windsor that wasn't the long input shaft type. I even enquired about importing a used mustang one with cable type fork, but that was too hard, and would have needed a 157 flywheel. In the end, I adapted the toploader one with silver-soldered studs in the top (the new holes were too close to the old ones to just drill and tap only) and drilled and tapped the bottom ones, all to suit the T5 pattern. This was the cheapest way of getting my existing EA T5 to bolt to the clevo. Only other option was going to be a CRS one which was too dear for me at the time. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    XF AU Windsor conversion

    Those ratios sound right, and yes the 6 cyl input shaft was the same all the way up until and including EL. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg


    I didn't know that, I thought it was all iron Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg


    And likely a factory block, seeing as aftermarket ones weren't around back then. Maybe a pillow... That was as good as it got though Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg


    Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    crossflow street/strip build

    You never tire of watching a fresh engine go together Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    Rough idle on cold start after converter rebuild

    24L/100 is excessive, I would look at the converter secondary pressure being too high, or a holed diaphragm in the mixer which is causing a higher vacuum signal at the outlet and more gas to be drawn out. In both gas cars I've had (Corty 250 with a straight gas CA300 and an EA with a dual fuel 200) I would get consistently 15L/100. Something is wrong and it could have been multiple problems simultaneously before, and you've solved one but not all of them. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk