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gerg last won the day on July 31

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    Long Term Engine Storage

    Nah pretty much nailed it Bear. Myself.... I would loosely assemble it, coating everything in a mix of grease and canola oil, thin it down with turps and spray it on everything with a cheap pump pack from Bunnings. The turps evaporates, leaving behind the oily/greasy film. Assembling it keeps the bits protected inside, away from outside air. I had a virgin 4MA crank go completely rusty just sitting on the shed floor wrapped in an old oily shirt. It's so bad it will need a 0.010 cleanup minimum. I also had a shiny, freshly reco'd crossflow alloy head go completely fucked just sitting in my shed wrapped in the plastic it came in. I think my dog might have pissed on that but you get the gist of it. Engine parts rust bloody easily. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg


    You are correct grasshopper. AU onwards I believe used the Mustang T5 input and bellhousing depth, which is 5/8” longer. You could possibly use a spacer between the box and the bellhousing to correct this but that throws your tailshaft length and shifter position out. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg


    T5 and Single Rail share same length, spline count and pilot bearing on all Ford 6s up to EL. I can go measure a spare box I have in a bit Ok shaft is 165mm from very tip (pilot section) to gearbox face (not input retainer) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Cleveland HEADERS - anyone used these?

    Yeah they do look pretty smick. I can tell you that any extractors on a clevo, tri-Y or tuned will be a bitch to fit. Even my lowly set of tri-Ys needed the starter and nearly the steering box removed, and that's after splitting the driver's side set into front and rear halves. Those ones seem to be one piece so I reckon the engine will need to be jacked up on that side and/or the car put on a hoist to feed them up under. Also if they're a grade of stainless that doesn't rust, be prepared for them to crack and fatigue. They never make exhausts out of the pretty stuff for that reason, and that's why factory systems will get a thin layer of rust very quickly. If they went putting any more chrome in them,to stop the rust, they would have lots of warranty nightmares from them splitting apart. Not trying to talk you out of it, just be mentally prepared for what could happen, especially with eBay gear. They might be a good thing after all Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    Xh Ute 2 inch drop and wider wheels.

    Just plugged the numbers into a Wallace Racing calculator 235/45R17 = 25.33" tyre diameter 235/60R15 = 26.10" So roughly 0.4 of an inch closer to the ball joint/spindle in height. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    Xh Ute 2 inch drop and wider wheels.

    If a 235/55R17 tyre clears, a 235/60R15 should shit it in. Like Thom said, offset will play a part. Closer to zero offset would be ideal. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg


    Then it will be locally cast. Anything cast after 74 will be from here. Should be a solid lump with minimal core shift Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg


    Any date code in the casting? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg


    Your machinist will know by how hard the iron is. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg


    I also read that early Aussie blocks used US molds. So the Cf may still be there despite being cast here. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg


    That F is probably from an engine reco mob. That's the square pad that makes it a "square" block, vs a "D". Likely a GF block, if you look next to the oil sender port you will see the foundry mark. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    351C and 5 speed

    Well I already got the other bits, just the box would do me fine. A nice close-ratio unit would be the duck's nuts Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    351C and 5 speed

    Not exactly, but my trusty T5 that's been in 3 cars now is going fine behind my little clevo. Wish it was a TKO but whatever.... Money and shit Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. OK then it's not the reverse switch (yet). I'm not terribly familiar with what fuses do what in an XF but the reverse lamp circuit should get supply from the ignition. So if you check for supply at the fuse with ignition on, that would narrow it down more. There should be a connector in the engine bay coming off the main loom that goes down to the box for all the devices on there (speedo, reverse, neutral). That one you bridged may well be for a neutral switch which if fitted, lives in the shifter housing on the old 4 speed. That tells the computer to do certain things with timing, etc when in neutral. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  15. Did they come on when you bridged them like Dean said? That would be the first bit of diagnosis to do before diving into anything else. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk