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gerg

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gerg last won the day on July 25

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About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    Sydney
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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    T5 Gearbox length's

    That wasn't my experience Thom, my combo consists of an EA T5, very old mechanical toploader bell drilled and studded to suit, and standard 351 clutch. Input shaft on my T5 was the same length as the single rail that came out, 6 and 8 cyl types, only mod was to skim 1.5mm off the diameter of the input bearing retainer (snout) to fit into the smaller hole in the bellhousing. This same T5 box lived in my EF and my EA before it, both of them 6s. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    That's full farmer spec there Thom, surprised you didn't stick-weld some star pickets or tie it off with fence wire or involve a tree stump somehow Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Cheers mate, 17.8 is not much better than what mine is doing at the moment. I dunno why, but clevos just seem to like a drink. Looks like Summit is the go for that kind of gear, but their price is deceptive as the spider kit and bronze dizzy gear are extra which should really be all bundled together. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    What cam are you running on your 302? I like the low-mid torque on mine but every now and then I wish I had something more. I only want to upgrade if the trade-off for driveability and fuel economy is minimal or none. My current one is a Crow 21602 l, has 208/208 @50, 484 lift on a 110 LSA. Looking at the catalog of Comp rollers, they seem to have at the lower end, specs of around the low 220s and mid-500s lift. Sort of around what the old E303 motorsport cams were for 302Ws back when there wasn't much else, but perhaps with a tighter LSA than what they had. If I was ever going to swap the cam again (I've wiped 2 already) I'd want to stretch my budget to a roller setup. Have you noticed a serious drop in low end torque and fuel economy when going up in cam by that much? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Yeah that jogs my memory after reading about Argentine Fords. Quite the parallel to Ford Oz in that they did their own thing and achieved a lot in a very small market. I'll bet the Argentine Y-blocks are the holy grail for hotrodders Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    That's interesting. When they went with the thicker castings, could they have been thinking of making a diesel variant of the Kent, just as the Essex V6 was originally designed to have? These were a very stout design for a petrol engine and rumour has it that they were slated to have a dual application for petrol and diesel. That's how they got the nickname "Essex Lump"... Their weight is comparable to a small iron V8. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I built a cradle (not a run stand) that could be easily turned into a runner, out of bits of unistrut and brackets. Very minimal welding, mostly nuts and bolts. Maybe you could go to a scrap yard and find some of that stuff? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Yeah Ford was a pioneer of "thinwall casting" in the early 60s, the 221/260/289 being among the first of their designs to use that method. Not sure when the "Kent" motor came about but perhaps the British casting process didn't lend itself to that approach? Or maybe the smaller engines didn't benefit as the weight saving as a whole wasn't worth it? The Kent is an amazing engine, among the longest-running designs ever produced if you count the later Spanish versions and was the basis for many motorsport engine designs as well. The most successful F1 engine in history was the Cosworth DFV, which was based on the Kent architecture, just made into a V8. Wow didn't know Y-blocks could be punched out that far... Pity they didn't make them for very long. They weren't a bad engine, just got outdated pretty quickly as the small block Chev was making its presence known. Also, goofy port arrangement that still boggles to this day. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I would say "yes", you do need them. The oil doesn't just lubricate the pivot, it cools it as well. I've had my rocker covers off while running and noticed that on the oil deflectors that were broken, the oil shot out of the hole by a good foot or so, which means each one was shooting the oil up under the rocker cover and missing the rocker pivot completely. What did you mean by "adding to the argument" about black motor heads? Do you mean there definitely is a difference, or that you can't see much in it? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Funny how such a tiny block can be bored so far, yet many big behemoth V8s can't go much beyond 0.030" before the walls get thin. Pistons came up like brand spankers! Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    That was a British engineering thing at the time, the flat-faced head and the chamber in the piston design resembled diesel engines, and I think they were going for a similar approach to combustion efficiency. The "Heron" design was (I think) as much about production cost as an increase in efficiency. The head could be cast and machined in many less steps of operation, and different compression ratios/chamber volumes could be arrived at simply by changing the piston relief (chamber). There were others that took that approach too, mainly Jaguar with the V12 HE revision, the adoption of which took the fuel consumption from "frightful" to merely "a bit excessive". There were pros and cons. The pros were good combustion efficiency by having the quench area around the entire chamber so the mixture gets pushed into the centre (to the plug) from all directions. Also as stated, simplified manufacture. Cons were that the pistons were relatively heavy, requiring a lot of material in the crown. Also, valve area is limited when the valves cannot be tilted to gain extra space for a bigger diameter and also for optimal flow into the chamber (the reason why Clevos can have such big valves in a 4" bore Vs Windsors). Once multivalve engines started coming on in the 80s, this design became redundant for petrol engines. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    That's a good kit if you have the bare block in front of you. It requires drilling/tapping in the valley to screw the spider down, which of course creates shavings you need to clean up. I think the spider type lifter is a better long-term upgrade than the tie-bar type. Seen stories of catastrophic failures on the latter. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    If the roller cam is a proper retrofit, the base circle of the cam is made smaller to accommodate the longer lifters, so should be right for std pushrods. This also prevents the lifter from otherwise poking out too far at max lift, causing oil pressure to dump out the top of the lifter bore via the lifter oil feed hole. Check first though, although I researched this a while back, I have never actually fitted a retrofit roller to a clevo. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    Repair or Rebirth......??

    Or grandpa's axe... It's had 4 handles and 3 heads, but it's still the same axe.... "They don't make em like they used to" [emoji23] But seriously, what's in a number anyway? The authorities don't really care as long as their criteria is met, so whatever it takes to get the old girl rolling again, I say do it. These cars were made to last a dozen or so years so the manufacturer's weren't too concerned about long-term identification. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    HELP - XF to EL ECU issues

    I think he means EL onward, which use the throttle-mounted ISC valves. If you wanted to use the later valve on the early remote setup, you'll need an adaptor plate with hoses coming in and out Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
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