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gerg last won the day on October 13 2022

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Yep +1 on this. I could have bought 3 of them for how much it would cost to re-core my factory one Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Xf diff strength.

    The 8.8, from what I understand, is a stout bit of gear, more than able to handle decent V8 torque and hard launches. The downside is that parts would be much harder to source here in Oz because of their limited use. My opinion: I think a properly built 4-pinion, 28 spline BW 78 diff would have ample capacity to handle what you're planning to build. Going over to a completely different axle and brake setup is just creating more headaches for compatibility and engineering/roadworthiness. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    250 xflow dyno charts

    You could bolt a 4.0 from an XG in there using standard components, which the engineer will much prefer. You may be limited to a log intake vs the dual length (EF onwards) one due to spring tower clearance. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Xf diff strength.

    Hey Deano i've done stuff like that years ago, can't remember where it is. Generally, keeping to the same series of diff (ie 75 or 78) will ensure carriers and gears will interchange. For the shorter ratios, ie 2.92 and upwards, the housing will need to be 78 series. My 302 is still running a 2-pin, 25 spline and 3.08 gears from a commo. It's holding up ok but has seen better days. The axles are twisting a bit and the spider gears are getting noisy around corners. Housing was from an XG with solid rear rotors. My car is a wagon so ute stuff is what you use in the rear end (same floorpan). I have a 28 spline centre and axles to throw in it (using the 3.08 gears), when time permits. So to answer your question, yes you will need to upgrade to 28 spline internals and axles. A 25 spline limo will not live a happy and prosperous life behind anything more than a stock 6. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    250 xflow dyno charts

    You will always make more from an OHC over a Crossy for the same kind of work done. Conversely, it would take more money and effort to get a Crossy to perform as well as an OHC. Stock carby Crossy made 92kW XF EFI - 120kW EA 3.9 - 139kW EB XR6 - 161Kw ED 4.0 - 148kW EF 4.0 - 157kW AU 4.0 -157kW AU VCT - 172kW So even going with the least powerful of the OHC motors is a huge step up from even the best of the 4.1 crossflow. That said, I have big respect for the old crossflow 6. You would treat them like a small-bore, long-stroke, inline 6 version of a Cleveland. They take the same rockers, valve springs, share the same valve layout and combustion chamber design. Good manifolds are expensive and getting hard to find. The EFI one is ok for stock power, but you'll hit a ceiling pretty quickly as the runners and plenum aren't terribly huge. In my research on here over the years, it seems like at around 200rwhp, serious work needs to be done to squeeze any more than that out of it. Folks on here have gotten 250, 300 even, but that's getting wild and not really a street engine any more. You can't get much bigger valves in there, so you need to go bigger with the cam. You're pretty much limited to flat-tappet unless you spend up big on a custom roller setup. Porting is a black art on these, as really the only gains come from opening it up more. On a clevo, especially 2Vs, you can gain big just by tidying up all the dags and ridges they come with, but with the Crossy you're already starting with a pretty nicely shaped port, it's just a bit small. OHC motors can be hopped up too, but they also have their limitations, mainly in cam lift and spring pressure. Too much of either will break the standard rockers and aftermarket ones don't really exist except for custom ones. Jim Mock Motorsports had the gun camshafts for these a while ago, dunno if they're still going. Hope this rant helps Gerg Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg


    Lol been in the wilderness a bit of late. Still here, not much to report. Nice to get a shout-out guys, cheers [emoji41][emoji117] Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    Trickflow vs 3v heads

    I'm not 100% certain, but Trick Flows would likely use the stock 2V port location, whereas 3Vs are a high-port that need their own CHI manifold. Sent from my CPH2273 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    Removing sump with engine in car???

    I did mine on my V8, but 6s might be a whole different ballgame. The oil pickup could well be a pain, may need to remove that with sump dropped to remove completely. If you still have the gearbox off, it would make it much easier to juggle the engine around inside the bay. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    Crossflow rear main seal.

    Note that when I mentioned the graphite type being soft, it's only because I've used that stuff on some plant equipment (not engine) so it may have just been a generic type not suited to crankshafts. I think your application most relates with the Holden video. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    Crossflow rear main seal.

    In my nearly 30 years of doing the mechanic thing, I haven't had the pleasure of doing a crank rope seal. I do understand that they need soaking in oil, softening up and lubing before installation, and cutting to length in a way that provides a certain amount of crush. The correct process is quite involved and lengthy. I found this video on a Holden V8 on YouTube. Not sure if your seal is the hard type or the soft graphite one I have sometimes seen. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  11. Oh glad it was of use to you mate. Just seeing others do what you set out to do makes you see that it's doable, so you're more able to overcome whatever hurdles. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    sohc into xf

    I'd be interested to see if you can get the BTR to give firmer shifts along with more rpm on board, also if there's an ignition cut/retard function on upshifts like BAs seem to have (or is that drive-by-wire throttle dipping) to reduce the "thump" you get with the upshift, and to speed up the shift without flaring or slipping. I also wonder if any automatic shops out there that rebuild these have come up with a fix for the over-run clutch issue, where they let go at anywhere between 150 and 200k and from there you get zero engine braking (straight to idle). Even manual shifting makes no difference. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg


    I don't think it will be mate, it's torque that kills gearboxes, not horsepower. And big blocks are known for having cubic amounts of low end torque Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  14. Nice write-up... It's uncanny how similar your swap is to mine, with the following differences: * My engine's a mild 302C * I used a Toploader bellhousing and made up a slave cylinder mounting bracket (it was for an F-truck mechanical clutch with no slave). * I filled the old bolt holes with cut off bolts and silver soldered them in, and the top T5 mount bolts are M12 wheel studs soldered into the bellhousing. Bottom ones are just drilled and tapped. The mount face on a toploader bell extends far enough down for the standard T5 lower bolts to meet, hence the reason for choosing the toploader one. * I originally had 3.27 gears (from an XG ute) but went over to 3.08s when I redid my diff. It sits on about 2000 doing 90. The T5 is from my old EA so 5th is 0.78 and 1st is 3.50. like you said, it's a bit short but on the plus side, doesn't need too much clutch slip to get going. * I used an EL wagon alloy tailshaft as it's the right length and was 30 bucks. * I eventually went to a 3/4" trailer-type master cylinder and a Jaguar 7/8” slave, the master previously swapped because I'd already chewed out 3 of the standard 5/8” ones and got sick of being stranded. You can pick up a trailer master cylinder at any parts store, so I'm covered there. The Jag slave was to get the bore ratios back closer to standard (clutch was very heavy with the 1:1 ratio). * I'd previously made my shifter into a short-shift by spacing up the pivot plate and extending the ball pivot by the same amount. I also made a new stick out of some water pipe, put some bends in it to point it more toward the driver and solid-mounted it to the lower part, eliminating the slop in the rubber bushes they come with. * My mileage didn't really change much from the single rail, maybe by 1L/100 km but the biggest change came from doing up a 650 spreadbore pumper for economy. It's an outstanding street carby, it's the 4th one I've had on it and is the best. I'm now getting 15L/100 fairly consistently, with lovely low speed smoothness yet no need for a choke in winter. I can't say I'm a huge fan of the T5, it's nowhere near as nice to shift as a tight single rail, and the 2-3 shift under power is always baulky and leaves you fumbling. I have a write-up on my install somewhere on here, starting from about 8 years ago. Anyway nice work mate, hope it makes a difference for you. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    Fuel Consumpiton High

    Could be a sooted O2 sensor, you can sometimes revive them by removing and dunking the tip in lemon juice overnight. Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk