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gerg last won the day on May 15

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About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. You worked at Gilbert & Roach huh? We have shitloads of suzi NQRs and never have wheel loosening dramas, ever. Only problem I've seen is if you don't lube the threads, they pick up and strip when you try to undo them on a 40 degree Saturday afternoon on the M7
  2. I'm assuming that it's electric choke. Where is the adjustment sitting on the housing? If it's all the way up, you could back it off a tad so that the choke flap isn't quite closed all the way, but enough to still kick the idle up. Sounds like she'd get enough fuel as is. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  3. I think standard S packs got the silver painted ones, Tickfords (XR6/8) got machined/clearcoated. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  4. Mine is air-powered [emoji121]️[emoji851] But funny you should say that, because most torque wrenches don't work backwards [emoji848] Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  5. Yeah I've had mine off and can vouch for that. They're built to handle a nuclear apocalypse. Chunkiest mesh alloys I've ever seen. I reckon even aftermarket steelies would be lighter ie: d-hole, round hole or sunrasia. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  6. Japanese trucks to this day still have left-handers on the left side. Pain in the arse because the rattle guns have 3 settings clockwise but only flat-out anti-clockwise. So doing them up, you have no control over tightness; it's either loose or fuck-off tight. And you're spot-on about the markings. They have a big fat "L" stamped in the end of the stud to remind you that it's "lefty-tighty, righty-loosey" Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  7. Got a link for that one Broken Wheel? I wasn't after track-day handling, just a cheap, easy upgrade from my existing setup. Yours sounds much more hardcore than mine. Poly really needs a fresh supply of moly grease to keep from chopping out. The old Nolathanes were notorious for doing that. I've heard about the castor (or radius) rod bushes and how going to full poly makes the ride a lot harsher. I'm thinking rubber on the front bush and poly on the rear. Rubber to absorb lateral shock from road travel but poly to take the cornering (side) loads better. I'm running old-school Konis up front so poly might be a bit harsh on a shock as efficient as them. One way to find out I guess. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  8. Yeah that probably goes back to what I was saying about the axle centreline in relation to the spring eyes, in that the further up you space the axle, the larger the moment or "leverage" the axle has in distorting the leaves both under torque and cornering (as what happens with lowering blocks) . Conversely, leaves like the ones you described on your XF that sit flat will handle much better because said leverage is minimal. Everybody puts shit on leaf springs but I think they do a brilliant job for what they are. There's a lot to be said for simplicity and ruggedness. As I always say: "Good enough to win Bathurst". Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  9. As soon as I (fucking finally) get this thing back on the road I'll let everyone know. Interested to see it myself. Going by the many forums that I've scoured on the subject, there are a few different methods of flipping. The most extreme is the hot rodders one where they take the main leaf and invert it, giving not only the reversed tension that flipping provides but also putting the spring eyes under the leaf, not over. Straight away this gives about a 4" drop. This isn't what I would do as the weight of the car is trying to unwrap the eyes and worsens on bumps. Could result in some fatigue fractures in time. Some take the 2nd or 3rd one from the bottom and flip it to the top, or multiple ones in the pack. normally (on average) gives a 2" drop. I'm after much less than that, hence the smallest one being flipped only. In all cases, the spring rate actually decreases, because any leaf acting above the main one does not support any load. The flipped leaf is just there to oppose the rest of the pack and provide a spacer of sorts for the axle to sit higher, lowering the car. The difference is, although the axle centre is raised in relation to the spring, the length of the flipped leaf acts to spread torque loads along the pack and help control spring windup, something that lowering blocks can be notorious for creating. I hope it isn't too squishy as the axle thumping upwards might collect the exhausts or something. Maybe a good set of shocks is on the eBay horizon. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  10. The coupe has one that was a kit from Selbys or Lovells or some mob like that. Just has u-bolts around the axle tubes that look like exhaust clamps. Chassis end has bits of chunky angle that the sway bar links go through, then are bolted through the chassis rails probably with crush tubes shoved in to stop it squishing them as you tighten it all up. Either that or a stepped bolt. I think a ute will be very taily with a one. The thing with sway bars is that they lift the inside wheel more under load, so once the outside breaks traction, it's basically ice skating from then on. Coupled with that, the sway bar also plants the diagonally opposite wheel harder into the road, so your front grabs harder while the rear is, like Dean said, more skatey. To top it all off, if running an LSD, that will add a whole new dimension to the fun. Whether or not you want something like that comes down to your own preference. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  11. Did a little spring flip, started out as 5-leaf ute springs: 1st (bottom) leaf flipped with the 2nd leaf already removed before. Factory dummy spring also in place (ie lowering block). Should give a subtle drop less than 1 inch. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  12. I knew there was a thread somewhere here, just didn't go back far enough to find it. Cheers for that! Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  13. OK cheers good feedback. My saddle bushes are shagged so they need doing regardless. So you reckon poly bushes aren't worth it? As I'm possibly going to 17 x 8 rims, tuck is not good. However my springs would be considered standard height V8 (were sky-high with the 6). I'm expecting like you said about 1/2" drop but that's incidental. So clearance wasn't the issue, only the geometry? The whole reason that I want the mod is to stop the usual pos camber under load, the side-benefit is that you don't need so much camber initially dialled in to compensate, so you then don't scrub out tyres so much. I've flipped the lowest leaf on the rear in anticipation for the modest drop up front. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  14. I hate coloured spaghetti. The less the better. Top job on that! Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  15. G'day folks, need some tips on the best type of spring saddle available. Whiteline and Nolathane sell greasable-bush saddles that look pretty good, but I'm wondering about real-world durability. Some Nolathane bushes used to chop out in no time. Are either of them worth paying double over stock rubber ones (ie from Kingswood Country)? Anyone who's done the Shelby drop, did you have clearance issues with the threaded end of the top arm pivot hitting the rear inside of the shock tower? This looks to be mostly a problem if you go 1/8" back (for more caster) in addition to the standard 1" down with the mounting holes. Do I need to lop a couple of mm off the end of the pivot that sticks out or will it be OK? Also, are these any better in urethane, or best left as rubber? Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk