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gerg

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gerg last won the day on March 18

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About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    Sydney
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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    Temperature

    Many older water pumps, particularly clevos, are very inefficient at higher rpm, causing a cavitation bubble to form in the centre of the impeller. This is partially cured by slowing it down with a bigger pulley and/or installing a restriction in the top hose so that the pump has a load to work against. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Prefect 302!!!

    Shouldn't imagine it being too different from a Zephyr mechanically. Wheels could do with an upgrade though, even a subtle one Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    OGUN - the clevo

    It will have to be a well-built converter to handle pushing that big lump of iron quickly... Hope he's running a decent cooler Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    XE Tidy up

    Yep, agree with all diagnoses thus far. Excessive gear loading could be from high oil pressure (stuck relief?) But that wear pattern looks like misaligned teeth. This could be from a worn dizzy bush, and/or incorrect OD on the oil pump drive spigot. This puts all of the side loading onto the dizzy bush. Well spotted on the cam lobe Ando, both of my wiped cams had lobes that looked like this that weren't the completely fucked ones, looks like they were on their way too. If not running a specifically high zinc oil, this is your problem. Penrite or Fuchs are both highly regarded on here running in our old clunkers. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    Crossflow Lifter Noise

    I think it's just something you have to live with. I remember my Corty doing the same thing but that engine was otherwise perfect, no blowby, etc. It's annoying but what else can you do? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    Crossflow Lifter Noise

    10-50 seconds is no biggie. It's probably a tiny bit of crap caught under the metering valve inside the lifter. When you've switched it off and it's had a fair chance of landing on a lobe, the pressure from the valvespring pushes back against the lifter and squeezes all the oil out. If you haven't pulled one apart before, keep in mind that the hydraulic part only holds about half a cc, so only a slight leak would drain it in no time. So you go to start it next morning or whatever and the lifter is empty and sits there clacking away. So starting the engine and getting oil up to it and then through it takes said length of time, but from then on the oil pressure can more than keep up with the tiny internal leak. I'd be more worried about it being noisy when hot. That would indicate worn internals, the symptoms of which are made worse by the thinner oil. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Yeah I found gas to be too forgiving, to a point where it was actually difficult to tune. In that I mean that in comparison to petrol, it had a much higher resistance to knocking so you didn't know if you were too advanced or retarded. They both felt almost the same on the road, only that when advanced you could feel as a roughness through the car, like collapsed engine mounts. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it to knock, only run poorer and rougher. I did find that hooking up the vac advance to straight manifold vac (not ported) made it feel awesome at part throttle and had a baby-bum smooth idle, but the time delay it took for the vac advance cannister to retard back when you accelerated caused a bog down from it being momentarily too advanced. I did run a Jaycar programmable ignition, which used a primitive 3-point graph to achieve a ā€¯curve" and while it sort of worked ok, I think the electronics weren't up to the ruggedness that auto electrics need. Never heard of that device you mentioned. Wish I had've. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    Temperature

    I shouldn't imagine much difference, I know the E-series serpentine belts had a similar size crank pulley so the rest are about the same as v-belt too. I noticed in different Ford power steer pumps I had, serpentine and v-belt were the same diameter. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Yeah I found that out with my straight gas Corty. Running a stock Bosch dizzy it liked a good 20 deg initial but total would only take about 28. So it was always a compromise. I would've killed to have an MSD programmable at the time. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    45 degrees on the dizzy is 90 degrees on the crank. So swapping the leads will put it out by the same amount but in the other direction I say pull the dizzy and jump ahead a tooth and see what happens Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Being a tooth out will only alter how much movement you have available to correct it by moving the dizzy body. So theoretically, you could actually get it running fine even if it's a tooth or 2 out provided you have the range of movement available to correct it. Normally the vac advance hits the thermostat housing or a dizzy clip hits something else on the manifold. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Ok Sparky Dave seems to be onto it, I'll just give my take on pretty much the same thing. The indexing of the rotor tip to the pulse wheel must allow for vacuum advance and also any electronic delay caused by the module, etc. So regardless of the working range of the vac advance, the rotor tip is always close to the terminal whether advanced or retarded. Mechanical advance has no bearing on rotor phasing because the whole lot moves (pulse wheel and rotor). You say the vac advance is stuffed. You need to make sure that it's not floating around doing its own thing. The engine should idle the same with it connected or not, so if it's stuck in one spot, it won't make a difference anyway. It only operates at part throttle, say 15-25% but shouldn't at idle if connected properly. Silly question, are you clamping the right lead? #3 is next to it in the firing order and easy to mix up. That would show up as retarded on the timing marks. If you have the trigger wiring on the module in reverse polarity, it will fire retarded as the module will be looking for a particular part of the phase to trigger and if the polarity is wrong, it will be triggering on the down ramp instead of up, or vice-versa (opposite to what it wants to see). I did this on my MSD and the engine ran like a busted fart (once it stopped backfiring) until I corrected the two trigger wires. Then vroom... Problem solved. Does advancing it while running make any difference? Can you hear any arcing inside the dizzy? You shouldn't be able to hear it over the engine. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    EL GHIA TICKFORD 12/97

    I'm looking for some sticky shit like that, cheers for the heads-up Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    EGO: my XD/F ute

    Vans and wagons I can confirm have odd aero properties that suck exhaust back through the car. I have driven short distances loaded with gyprock sheets and the tailgate propped open only slightly, and nearly suffocated from the fumes. Exhaust sounded sweet though, so totally worth it. Utes have very different aero characteristics, with a tumbling effect created as the tailgate grabs some of the air, directs a stream forwards along the bed to the cabin and then turns upwards just behind it. This creates a backwards-rotating pocket of air that the slipstream flows around, helping with aerodynamics. I've seen this in my own Courier with leaves and rubbish and shit accumulating in the dead spot behind the cabin, which once there never moves. So I reckon an opening rear window on a ute would be fine. I reckon the tailgate serves as an air dam stopping the fumes from coming up into the tray. They did an experiment on MythBusters with 2 identical trucks, one tailgate up, the other down. They noticed that the tailgate being up did not affect the fuel consumption at all, and in fact may have slightly helped it at certain speeds. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    Which aftermarket block?

    Yeah sounds good being clevo and all that, very appealing but for similar money, you get US cast & machined iron, a proven design, 4.125" bore option and I would say better support if something wasn't right. I too was excited when I heard about Arrow but then when the word "China" popped up, suddenly I no longer had a hard-on over it. I dunno, I'm probably talking shit but that's the way I'd go. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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