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gerg last won the day on June 2

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    Brake Lights

    It will have an adjustment to make. You unscrew the old one and screw in the new till it stops, come out maybe half or full turn or so, plug it in and check adjustment. You have to unplug it if you need more than a couple of turns. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Brake Lights

    Sounds like brake light switch down on the pedal. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. Now don't quote me on that being the case 100% of the time, as that adaptor I linked to is for a GM or Viper pattern. The Ford one is possibly different again. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. Unfortunately they won't. They have a totally different method of locating to the bellhousing than your traditional toploader or BW box. The older ones use the outside of the bearing retainer to fit snugly inside the back of the bell to keep it all concentric. The T56 uses the bolts and probably dowels to locate. The older boxes also have the sleeve built in to the snout that the throwout bearing runs on. The T56 uses a concentric slave. T56s have a very wide mounting flange that flares out from the casing that appears to be nearly as wide as the mouth of the bellhousing itself. It definitely looks too wide for any T5 mountings I've seen. There are adaptors available, but it would be expensive landing one here https://www.tickperformance.com/t56-mounting-adapter-plate-swap-applications/ Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    T5 oil (710)

    I did this exact thing, but along with a self-made short shifter. Eliminating the rubber isolator gets rid of a lot of slop in the gear shift, especially when that rubber gets a bit squishy with age. Swapping sides on the stick brings it a tad closer to the driver which is handy in a car so wide. You can bring it even closer by spacing it out with a few washers between the shifter and the stick. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg


    XG diff ratio should be 3.27:1, centre should be open 4 pinion 28 spline (not LSD). Flange can be swapped from your old diff to reuse the old tailshaft. Tailshaft should be same length between the two, wagons are the same length as well. But as Chestnut says, output shaft spline count might be different on the top loader. I have done the 5 speed conversion on my 302C, using a toploader bellhousing drilled and tapped to suit the T5 flange pattern. The outside of the front bearing retainer (snout) has to be machined about 0.060" to fit the hole in the single rail/toploader bellhousing. Input shaft length and clutch spline count is the same. The 6 cyl ratios might be a bit short for your clevo, well that's what I found with mine using the EA box with 3.50 first. Also I assume you're running a 351, therefore a T5 would be marginal in strength behind that sort of torque, especially the wide ratio 6 cyl version. If it breaks, it will be on 3rd gear. Best T5 behind a V8 is the T5Z, which is a whole new can of worms. You can get adaptor bellhousings to mate the two, they go for around $700 from CRS (haven't checked lately). I assume that you have all the hydraulics there to suit the V8 setup already? Keeping the toploader would be the easiest way to swap, handbrake cable would go with the diff, tailshaft also if you want to go that way but maybe the output yokes can be swapped to suit the toploader? I can confirm that 3.27 on the highway has the engine at about 2800 in 4th, a bit much for a V8 cruiser. 5th gear is more manageable at about 2200. I recently went to 3.08 to gear it up a bit. Should have me sitting below 2000 with some tall tyres. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. Disc brake and LSD as far as I know. I converted mine for this reason (was a mandatory option) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg


    Yeah the AOD sounds like a nice idea on paper with a lockup clutch and overdrive, but they have a screwy shift sequence that locks out 2nd gear or something silly like that until you shift back down into 1st from 3rd. The BTR is a solid lump, 1st gear is pretty tall though. I reckon going behind a clevo would need some more line pressure and firming up the shifts, etc. Also lockup clutch pressure if you can possibly up that as well. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. It's been too long so all that info isn't fresh in my head. It can be done, it's just the issue of pinion spacing in relation to the crown. There is a thick shim to do this that goes between the inner pinion bearing race and the back of the gear. I think it's something like 120 thou. I'll explain why: the difference between 75 and 78 housings is in the pinion depth, and is determined by how deep the step for the inner pinion bearing is machined. 75 has the pinion deeper into the crown, as the 75 crown wheel is smaller in diameter and the pinion needs to go deeper into mesh to meet it. Putting that shim in behind the pinion puts it into proper mesh with the crown and corrects the difference between housings. There is an instance where there is a different carrier used, on the 2.77 diffs they had a greater offset on the crown wheel to allow for larger diameter pinion gear. This centre is only compatible with those gears. In some rare instances, they've used that weirdo carrier with 2.92 gears and have a big shim under the crown wheel to space it back across to where it normally would be. All other centres should swap. But 25 spline centres won't work with 28 spline axles. The holes are too small for the axle diameter. Be sure to get the correct carrier bearings, as there are differences. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. The housing itself will tell you what series it is, unless it's a weirdo hybrid one (ie 75 series gears in 78 housing) Should be 0575 series with those ratios. You will find that on your tag, stamped on the centre somewhere and also on the gears themselves. Like this: Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. Should be 2.78 from memory, could also depend on if it's a 4.9 or 5.8. Edit: 4.9 got the 2.92 either manual or auto, 5.8 manual was 2.92, auto was 2.77 and some highway patrol cars got a very rare 2.53. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    Replacement radiator for XF

    eBay Chinesium ones generally get a pretty good rap, just need to earth them and use lots of green shit in your water Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. VicRoads has adopted the national code VSB14, which has certain displacement/power-to-weight limits for both owner certified and engineered vehicles. Scroll down to the LA (engines) section and download the pdf. https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    King spring Low vs Super low

    If you want about 1/2" extra lowering along with a more sports-oriented geometry, consider the Shelby drop. There's a couple of threads on here (including mine) if you feel like digging. The net is also full of forums on how to do it. Searching might even get you to one of our threads (does for me). The job can be done in an arvo if you're already doing the springs and have everything prepared. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    Koni Shock Settings

    I did mine so it felt roughly the same pulling it out as pushing it in (that's what she said) ie: 50/50 rate Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk