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gerg last won the day on October 7

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    whistly / wheezy sound ef falcon

    I am still thinking it has something to do with the 1st planetary thrust. It was a bigger issue on EL to BA2 because they had a sharper helical cut to the gears, causing more end thrust to the planetary hub. My brother in law's XR6T had its gearbox lunch itself in this manner and the gearbox bloke said that the common fix was to put the earlier planetary in to handle the torque. But I digress.... Short of getting the box swapped or overhauled, maybe you could try some kind of additive or change the oil to a higher quality type, to try and possibly reduce the friction creating the noise. In my time working on Mercedes buses, many auto shift problems were cured by a simple oil change. Maybe start there? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Deciphering engine number

    Here's a breakdown of your codes from Xfalcon (go down a few posts) http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/1192-code-breaking-your-motor/page-7 The 4K means body configuration. Yours is an F100 4x4. K on the end of the engine/chassis number just means V8. So it's a locally made 351C out of an imported F-series CKD kit. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    whistly / wheezy sound ef falcon

    It sounds like a noisy 1st gear planetary thrust bearing. The weird thing is how you reckon it only does it when manually shifted. It should start off in 1st when in D as well. Could you try turning off Eco mode (ie put it in power mode to make it shift to 2nd later) to try and get that noise to happen in D? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. Back in my apprenticeship days, a fellow worker reckoned you fixed the poor shift quality by drilling tiny holes through the syncros to let the oil out and help them bite. Not the first time I have heard this. Are you running the right oil? Don't run an EP (diff) oil in a gearbox otherwise the syncros have an even harder time biting with the EP additives. Go for a heavy engine oil or a specific light (non-EP) gear oil. EP oil will also eat the brass in the syncros over time. Your box may well be worn. If you pull it out, pop the top off it and look at 3rd gear syncro. It's the second from the front. It should have nice pyramid-shaped teeth around it, not rounded off or flattened. Also try and rotate it back and forth. If it moves further than the width of one dog tooth (as in half a tooth each way), the ring is worn internally and the box needs to be stripped. If first gear seems really short, you don't have a close ratio I'm afraid. Close ratios are made by having a lower primary reduction (the input shaft/layshaft gear ratio) to reduce torque multiplication. All gear ratios are subsequently taller due to this. Conversely, in a wide ratio, the primary gear reduction is greater, so the gears have a greater multiplication of their ratios (and torque) and is more suited to heavier vehicles. Close ratio has a higher torque capacity, wide less so. Unfortunately, changing ratios means the entire gearset in the box, not just one or two gears. There might have been two, maybe three different sets you could get from memory. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. Looks like they're trying to pass themselves off as a knockoff Bilstein. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    Looking for help AU engine in BA

    As@Defective said, it should bolt in as the front chassis are fundamentally the same. Before@Thom chimes in with the proper details, I've learnt that a decent combo can be made with AU bottom end, EF head and EA camshaft. There are plenty of cam grinds available off-the-shelf, or of course custom if you like. They aren't cheap because volume isn't huge. I'm not sure if vernier cam drives are available for E-series engines but if they are, that would be useful for tuning the torque curve coming out of corners/top end, etc. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. Sounds about right, cause the cranks themselves changed only slightly through the years all the way to the end. If it's the slightly wonky 6 bolt pattern then it's the same as Windsor, Clevo, 400M, and inline 6s, only difference from 87DA onward is metric 10mm instead of 7/16" UNF. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    Driveshaft length

    Fairlane/LTD shafts are the same wheelbase as utes and wagons also (same floorpan) just in case you come across one of them for parts. Utes and wagons use the same leaf springs as well, but I'm unsure about Fairlanes being the same here. My XE wagon uses an alloy EF wagon shaft and flange. That was a straight bolt-on. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    Xf Ute

    I'm gathering that it uses the same system as the rest of the Ford world before VIN was implemented. In Australia that would be: J - Australia G - Geelong 66 GT hardtop (?) It must transfer as M - New Zealand (assembled) A - Auckland (?) 66 - that bit doesn't make sense, should be 40 (Falcon Utility) if using same body codes as Oz. FD should come up as November 1985. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

    Yeah that's a good point Bear, early Windsor blocks had a bit more meat in crucial areas. Can't remember when they started taking it out (maybe late 70s?) but a 289 block would be a nice solid base to work from. Don't rule out the Dart option, you can get some decent cubes from the 4.125" bore version along with a stroker kit. I have wondered about a dream build myself: Dart alloy 4.125, 3.25 stroke, makes a short stroke 347. Topped with CHIs, would make a sweet combo..... I digress.... Also maybe consider a 351W? Very stout block and you can get over 400 cubes no sweat, approaching big block territory. Windsor bits are much more plentiful in the US, greater selections available. You wouldn't bother doing up standard heads, just buy some decent alloys and call it done. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

    Regarding the big block... Maybe an FE (390/428) would be a better choice? Bill Burke (Ford Oz CEO) had an XW specially made for him by the factory, even had the build plate stamped for it. They might slot in easier because they're physically smaller than a 429/460 series. Lighter too. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

    Don't mind the Holden talk... We don't get offended like Holden fans would be about Fords [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    460BB in ZA Fairlane

    The 460 would be tight, it does slot into XA onwards like it was made for it (apparently) but earlier falcs... Not sure. I hear a lot that the 347 is not a great long-term build, they tend to get exessive side thrust (from the short rod) and ring wear, start drinking oil, etc. Ford Aus made it work sweet with the TE/TS 50 series, but they had to custom make all the bits locally because they sussed out the imported stroker kits before that and had some catastrophic failures during their durability testing. In the words of one Tickford boffin: "they were rubbish" 331 is a 3.25" stroke on a +0.040 bore, much more liveable. Pretty close to Chev's 327, which many smallblock fans say was the sweetest of them all. However your 289 block will be a tad shorter in the bore than a 302, which has a small protruding lip at the bottom of each bore to allow for the piston coming further down. I don't know if it would be a problem but I can't see it being too much of a difference. Might need to research that one. You will need some decent head flow to support the extra displacement. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    Crossy build- am I on the right track

    Couldn't you just machine the pads for Clevo or Windsor running gear? Surely there's something out there that suits? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    Crossy build- am I on the right track

    You can physically use a solid roller with hydraulic roller lifters, but the profile will in effect be milder in duration due to the more gentle ramp of the solid grind. You would go say 10-15 degrees more in advertised duration in a solid using hyd lifters to compensate for that gentle ramp, but then you're still bleeding compression with the slow opening. It would be a compromise for sure. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk