gerg

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gerg last won the day on November 10

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    Sydney
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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. +1 coil. Had one not totally fail but go weak enough to suddenly not fire the engine one day (but tested ok when cranked). Threw another one I had lying around from an EA 6-cyl and the thing kicked to life instantly. I did test the second one before starting and the difference in quality of spark was obvious. Had another one on my Corty just instantly fail while driving along one night to a girlfriend's house. No warning, no signs of failure, just one minute hooning along and the next, parked in a suburb far away with no life. Came back next day, new coil in, off she went. Coils are bitches of things and will fail at the worst of times. I prefer oil-filled over the solid core ones, as they seem to give a bit of warning before giving up the ghost. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  2. As the the steel behaves differently from one alloy to another, you go with whatever the bolt manufacturer reckons is right. They have also factored in the different torque requirements of the fine thread vs coarse ie: a fine thread will have a higher tension on the bolt than a course one for a given torque setting. It may well be that the stronger alloy needs more tension on it to "stay tight". I would get the block line-honed with the studs already installed and torqued as the higher tension will distort the block more than standard ones. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  3. Yeah nah... Bad idea, great execution Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  4. Do they speak English in "What"? Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  5. Just take her for a decent blat in the hills and get the brakes smokin' That's your temperature cure sorted Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  6. Should just paint the whole car in it... Well I would Jokes aside, I did do my engine in caliper paint as the previous engine enamel peeled off from around the exhaust ports. There is a bit of a strict procedure you need to follow in order for it to cure. It needs some pretty serious heat in it to go off properly. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  7. Lol actually I'm not that dodgy. Mains, big ends, heads and flywheel all get a torque wrench on them but everything else... When your wrist goes "click", it's donesky. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  8. Number 2 on the rattle gun, right across the board for me Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  9. All you have to do is use the words "ESP" and "GTHO" and "Bathurst" in the heading Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  10. Eunos sedan had it too. Talk about unecessary gadgets. The "Miller Cycle" 2.3 V6 was supercharged, went about as hard as a 3.0, but with twice the amount of shit in the engine bay Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  11. Yep, did that on my dad's smashed XF, engine and box came out like car just coughed it up. I reckon make the cut, weld some overlapping bits of sheet to the body, install captive nuts/rivnuts into them and presto.... Bolt-on/off rad support panel. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  12. You mostly use it on engines that are a known problem child in the head gasket area. Not really recommended on printed gaskets like Fel-Pro, etc as they already have a sealer built in. It's (kind of) like a spray-on Loctite, where it doesn't actually cure until the parts are assembled and torqued. This is handy if you're not assembling straight away, and lets the solvent dry out completely. +1 on the shitty spray pattern. They really should put a stronger dye in it too, as it's hard to see how thick you've put it down. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  13. That sounds extraordinarily complicated for no reason, like something the Germans would do Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  14. Maybe you could just turbo those cylinders? Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  15. Use Plastigauge to double-check clearance. After that, lube each bearing (not the outside!) and each time you torque one cap down, spin the crank to make sure nothing's gone tight. Crank end clearance without a dial gauge or feeler gauges can be at least felt by levering the crank back and forth and listening/feeling for a little clunk. End clearance isn't hugely critical and it's best to be loose rather than than tight (in this case lol) Take a few more moments to do these checks as the alternative could be much more painful. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk