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gerg

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gerg last won the day on December 6

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    Sydney
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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    Help mechanical fuel pump

    I once had a mechanical pump shit itself on a Sunday arvo, had to call a mate to come rescue me. I had a Goss mechanical on my 302, the built-in barbs seemed to cause the body to bend really easily when tightening up the hose clamps. It just seemed cheap and tinny. Never failed, but I deleted it anyway and put in a Facet chunka-chunka pump just out of the tank. I like it because it gives a definite warning when fuel is getting low (by going chunka-chunka a lot louder than normal) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    Xflow head stud suit sohc

    Crossys are imperial, E-series are metric , so no go sorry mate Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    Xg xr6

    Time to go back to basics, like power to coil, coil output, leads, that sort of stuff. You've be amazed at what random problems can happen simultaneously but may seem related at the time. The "flooding" could just be spark breakdown. I recently got an XB going that had been converted from points to electronic, but after doing coil, leads, plugs, module, found that the previous owner had used the feed for the 9V (ballast) coil to the new 12V one. Weak spark was the result. Bypassed it all straight from the battery, started first kick. Moral of the story: check supply first. Fuse panel could be corroded, burnt or melted fuse terminals, someone could have fitted a kill switch that's gone bad, a crook relay somewhere.... So much fun to be had Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Xg xr6

    Sounds like it's drowning, what mods were done with the J3 chip? No spark is a bit suss. Is the dizzy in good nick? What fuel pressure are you running? Why do you need to run higher pressure with the bigger injectors? Was this all part of a package, or did you put this together yourself? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Or maybe a Fairlane in that same era, plenty torques for pushing big metal Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    But thanks anyway mate, not keen yourself? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Lol .. if I had the money, I'd pay some bills [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Depends on what you're using it for, but just remember CFM = HP. So if you've got a stump-puller that peaks torque at 2500 and makes around 300hp but runs out of puff before 5000, a 600 would suffice. But if you go putting 4V heads on, roller cam, single plane manifold and spin it to 6500+ then a 850 or bigger is in order. I would love to have a play with one of these and shove it in a box Falcon as a torque monster with nice tall gearing. I'd really love to feel the torque in a relatively light body just effortlessly surging along without even breaking a sweat. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Depends on what you're using it for, but just remember CFM = HP. So if you've got a stump-puller that peaks torque at 2500 and makes around 300hp but runs out of puff before 5000, a 600 would suffice. But if you go putting 4V heads on, roller cam, single plane manifold and spin it to 6500+ then a 850 or bigger is in order. I would love to have a play with one of these and shove it in a box Falcon as a torque monster with nice tall gearing. I'd really love to feel the torque in a relatively light body just effortlessly surging along without even breaking a sweat. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    How much will you have to take off to get them to zero? You have to factor in pushrod length once this is done. Having to buy new custom length pushrods might be false economy over getting the right piston. Also port alignment on inlet manifold would be affected. If using open chamber heads, zero deck means nothing. You only do it with closed chamber heads to tighten up the quench area and give better turbulence. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    One thing you could do I guess, if pistons are too pricey or hard to get, is to bush down the standard rod little ends to suit 351C size. 351C: 0.912" 351M/400: 0.975" So that's a difference of 0.063", or 0.0315" wall thickness in the little end bush. If that's within the capabilities of your machine shop, then it might be an avenue to pursue. That way, not only could you go with clevo pistons, but also full floating at the same time. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    +30 will make it 408, isn't that enough? The stroke is already 4", longer than any Ford big block ever made. Only some rare 1970 blocks were made with the smallblock bellhousing pattern, all others were big block, as is likely for this one. Maybe a big-block C6 is worth something out here? I dunno. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Unfortunately it's not that simple Action Man.... Pin diameters are bigger on these, so clevo ones are a no go. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    That looks like a score... I would jump at it seeing a they're like unicorn poo here in Oz. You'll get your money back no sweat. I for one would love to have that kind of giggle-inducing torque in my ride, dunno what it would be like on fuel though. Mounts shouldn't be too much of a drama, I'm sure there are mobs in the States who have worked it out. You could get some conversion mounts, do it up and sell it as a drop-in package for a Falcon or Fairlane. Maybe a tough Bronco or F-series. Just shove in a good midrange cam, use stock valvetrain, 4-barrel manifolds are easily available so you don't have to put up with a wheezy 2 barrel Holley. Zero deck pistons need to come from T Meyer in the States, nobody else I know of makes them. Stockers sit about 3 miles down the bore, that along with the open chambers gave very shit smog-aera compression... In the high 7s I believe. Interested in the block number too. That would tell you what it came out of. One thing before you buy it .. make sure it's a 400 and not a 351M. Pull the sump to check the crank number or do a stroke test. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. Sounds like you got it too hot with the cap off, and it just boiled over. Best way is to fill it up, put the cap on, drive it, give it some berries, come back, and let it cool. Then check it and it should be well and truly right by then. It really should bleed itself through that hose from the top of the thermostat housing, even when cold. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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