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gerg last won the day on February 15

gerg had the most liked content!

About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. I think the extra cubes alone will get it over the line much quicker, despite the big lump of extra weight being lugged along. If the stall speed is well matched to the power band, and the rear gears are right, this will easily be a 13 second car. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    12v ignition source Help please

    I don't see any problem teeing off the coil + if the load is negligible. If there is more than a couple of amps load, you need to put a relay in. A relay only draws about 20mA so makes bugger-all difference. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. I would fill it by as much as it will take without making a mess. You will only have to fill up more through the dipstick anyway to allow for the converter filling up. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. Re: someone claiming they lost a second on the quarter... If true, it was either a pretty sick gearbox or the C6 has a huge amount of internal drag compared to a C4. Otherwise, it's a wild exaggeration in my opinion. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg


    Fuck they really stuffed that in there Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. Could it be that the tie rods and steering arms (spindles) are what make them different, not the racks themselves? The difference in colour of the bushes might just signify different materials or could have been replaced at some stage with aftermarket ones (these are cars over 20 years old now). The steering being 90 deg out may be from how the coupling is attached at the end and where the master spline sits. Could you pull the pinion out and re-time it to the rack suit the earlier setup, then any further correction done through re-mounting the steering wheel? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    250 Crossflow build

    Yeah that's the ticket, exactly what I was describing. Just with the injector sandwich part and the adaptor plate, you'll have to watch shock tower clearance. Other than that, looks the goods mate Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    250 Crossflow build

    Your crossy makes around 150 HP stock, so a target of 200-250 on about 10 psi is what a stock bottom end is more than adequate to handle. Mild boost won't kill conrods, rpm and/or big boost does. Rpm rips them apart, big boost bends them. Your stock valvetrain will suffice, provided you keep the cam specs mild. That means a working limit of 0.500" lift. Upgraded valvesprings will be the exception. The key to making boost on standard compression is fuel and ignition management. This is where investing in a good aftermarket system will pay off. Sure there are people who've managed to use OEM computers, etc. but it will always be a compromise. Infinite tuneability will overcome any design shortcomings when adding boost. On a crossy, the EFI manifold is not ideal for turbo applications, for a few reasons: The middle 2 cylinders get first shot at the airflow. The throttle body draws air from the hot side of the engine. If using a right-to-left intercooler, the air outlet is on the opposite side of the engine to where the throttle is pointing. And lastly, the manifold itself may become a performance restriction at a certain power level. So it's best to seek an alternative, and the most cost-effective and simple one is by using an EA-ED log manifold adapted to the crossy inlet flange. It puts the throttle to the front and down, simplifying the installation and minimising turbo piping and keeping everything away from heat. I can't make any suggestions for your turbo selection as that's not my area of expertise. Exhaust manifold can be a simple log type made from cast bends. No need to go all out with tuned runners on a mild setup. KISS principle wins here Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg


    Lol... Watch out for the 5 finger exploding oil pump trick Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg


    Nah 58cc, 60 down the hole, 28cc dish, 40 head gasket. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg


    I ran those specs through the Wallace Racing one, it came in at 8.68:1. Are you sure the piston has that much dish? Edit: just ran the Summit one, it came in at 8.73:1 It assumes that your head gasket is the same as the bore, which it never is. The Wallace Racing one lets you input the gasket diameter to allow for the extra volume there. I put in 4.100" as that's closer to what they are. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg


    512 is fine, 12 thou is only about a quarter of a mm. What are the other specs for it? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg


    No that site is for Pontiacs, the sizes on the left are to autofill the specs for various Pontiac engines. You need to manually enter bore, stroke and cc, etc to get the right figure for a 400 Ford. It should come in at around 402 cubes if entered right (stock bore) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg


    Here use this calculator, it came up with 11.43:1 comp using 8cc dish, 0.020 down the hole, 0.041" gasket and 58cc head http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg


    Did you cc the pistons and get the machinist to measure piston deck clearance? That will tell you if you can use those closed chambers Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk