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gerg

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gerg last won the day on September 24

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About gerg

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  • Birthday 04/21/1976

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    Sydney
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    My workmates have a saying when I've tampered with something... "it's been Gergified!"

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  1. gerg

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Yeah seen the clevo setup, they chopped up 3 4V heads to do it. Not impossible with furnace welding or using a cast iron rod, like that guy who cut and welded 2 x 302 Windsors together plus 4 clevo heads to make a boss V12 Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    351c waterpump weep at bottom

    Unfortunately no mate, the sump has to drop to make sure the half-moon seal goes back in properly. If you try and put the timing cover on without dropping the sump, the half-moon will likely push into the sump as you pop the cover back on. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    351c waterpump weep at bottom

    Your sandwich plate is likely the reason why it's leaking. 40-odd years of corrosion makes them horrible and pitted. Without seeing it in person, I can't be sure about that though. Found also be coming out of the tell-tale hole from the shaft seal. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Nah they're a big bore 6, 4" by 4" stroke. They're about 2" longer in the block than a crossy. They will take a 390 FE piston with a rebore apparently. Bore spacing is similar to a small block V8. Cut up LS heads can fit with a bit of work. So sort of like a big block 6 Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    Have you tried running a thicker oil to bring the pressure up a bit? Or some kind of engine goo additive? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  6. Just keep the wiring there and bridge the terminals, or even make a starter kill switch hidden in that area using that wiring. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  7. That might be you clue right there Jack, sounds like you're into something [emoji41][emoji106] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  8. I know this might be a dumb question, but could the ECU be for an auto? My EF did this exact thing when I swapped the manual into it, and the only bush mechanic way I knew how to fix it (without splashing out $500 on a manual ECU), was to install an adjustable stop bolt in the ISC that limited how far it could open. I believe the ECU hangs the rpm up with autos to mask the downshift back into 1st or 2nd or also to mask the engagement of the over-run clutch, whatever it's for, it's a thing.... Does that sound right Thom? Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    $250 is very cheap for seats. I would expect more like $400-$500 but that might be Sydney prices. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Has the machinist looked at the seats? I was expecting mine to need hardened seats only to find that they were done already when I was having them tanked and reco'd. That was a big cost that I was happy to not have to cover. If they're not hardened, no big deal. I reckon if you're not going to flog the arse out of this truck, just stick with the valve saver on the stock iron heads. Hardened seats take a long time to pay themselves off if you're not doing the km. That's a shame about the valves. See if you can score some one-piece valves vs the 2-piece stock ones. Those are notorious for ripping valve heads off with anything more than stock spring pressure and rpm. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Nice one! I'd be worried if it was an open chamber 302... That would've been a dog! Are you going with the old pistons or splashing out on new ones? I would aim for zero deck to take advantage of the closed chamber. I did a bit of a cleanup on my 2Vs, I think it's in my gergwagon thread. A few pics for reference anyway. Just smoothed the bowl and throat transition, knocked a bit off the short turn and bevelled and put a contour on the guides. Nothing drastic and definitely not pretty, but it surely can't have hurt at all. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    Boingk's F250 4x4

    Probably had a Bunnings bolt in there just to get it going. Good score on the 302 heads. There must have been a lot of 302s made because there are quite a few heads (and engines) still around... despite a lot of them being sent to the States in the past due to them being closed chamber and 2Vs (never made them there). You going to have a bit of a go porting them? These Aussie 2Vs have lots of room for improvement, at least going off what I've experienced with mine. The bowls and throats were terrible. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  13. Crack open the fuel line up to the carby and crank the engine for a few seconds. If fuel spurts out, your fuel pump is pumping. In that case, you might have a stuck or blocked float needle or hung up float. If the pump doesn't pump out fuel, it's either got a valve stuck open (had that before), a broken pump arm or pivot, broken spring or there's a blockage between the pump and the filter (kinked line, etc.). If the carby is getting any fuel at all, you can check that by pulling the air filter off and looking down the primary throat to see if the squirter works when you open the throttle (engine off). Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    GMB water pump different thread

    That rings a bell from the last time someone had this same problem on here. Looks like new pumps are metric, probably M8 x 1.25. The originals would have been 5/16" UNF if they were like clevos (and of the very few fine-thread bolts on the engine) Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    XE diff lsd

    Any diff oil rated for limited slip usage is fine. Used to be 85w140 when mineral was it, but now synthetics can be made thinner with the same protection. I'm sure there are LS rated gear oils at 80w90 nowadays. Thinner is better when roller bearings are involved. Better flow and cooling. From memory, BW diffs take 1.8 litres. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
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