Mixalis

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Mixalis last won the day on April 16 2016

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About Mixalis

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  1. You have no idea what you're talking about mate I'm wiring the white one haha thanks ando was about to wire the white/blue Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks for that ando I was going to use the white/blue cause on MSD instructions it says Hall effect! Greg thanks for that reminder I was meant to do that on previous MSD, now this one has the three pin plug ready to go so gojng to find one of those MAP sensors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I just bought the exact same box in the same colour haha also mounting in engine bay. On my digital 7 there was only one white wire that went to trigger on dizzy. However on this 6al2 there's a white for points and a white/blue which im assuming is the one to use now on the trigger ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks for that Jack, will give that one a crack then hopefully tonight when I get back. Maybe it is something as simple as that aye! Michael Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Cheers Greg what can you do mate aye spewing. Would've loved if there was an MSD repair center locally One connector will be slightly different by the looks of it so not entirely plug n play. However, considering I need to re install the software, and more than likely going to remake that sheet metal piece on the firewall (will be full of unecessary holes now), it'll probably turn into a bit of a weekend job instead. Let's just hope it all survives this time aye; least it'll have warranty now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Yep rob msd was getting full voltage at all times Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. So some unfortunate news. Went and let the car idle to build up temp, 15 minutes in stalled as it usually does, wouldn't start. So then unplugged my HVC coil and put on mates MSD master blaster that was brand new out of the box, ran for 3 minutes and stalled just like it does with the HVC. So coil wasn't the issue. I have an msd spark tester that goes onto the trigger wire, essentially by passing the distributor. Would spark fine but as soon as I get the motor to the point where it stalls, quickly hook up tester, the test plug would not fire. Wait a few minutes and fires fine. So not a dizzy issue either. Only left the ignition box itself and the main coil lead. Tried another lead and same issue persisted. Unfortunately only left the digital 7. Hooked up anther MSD box and the car idled fine for 25 minutes no issues. So somehow the Digital 7 looks like it's packed it in. Although the box is about 12 yrs old, I'm still sure it should have lasted, but perhaps the last couple years driving in 30+ degree might have gotten to it, not sure to be honest. But will be buying a new 6al2 programmable and new coil to get it back on the road for summer. I've figured this is a more street friendly set up so will be doing this. Thanks for the help everyone, keen to hear if anyone has had similar experiences Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Cheers Greg will give it a go on the weekend. I didn't want it to be the coil but now I'm just hoping it is cause I'm sick of it hahaha, can't wait to see the wagon and the rest of the crew again been a while! Maybe we should buy cars that's work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for the explanation Greg on top of it as usual. Delay with mates coil will hopefully have a crack at it this week. Grimy I haven't done the msd check, that is a great idea tho. Correct you just tap the white wire to ground and check be coil lead. I actually have an msd spark tester somewhere here as well. In fact, I'll give that one a go next time the thing fails so that'll be two things to test in one go Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks jack, I've lent the coil with the male post to a mate, but just remembered I have another mate with a spare HVC style coil so hopefully test that one out first since it's the same type of coil. Could it possible be anything else guys while we're here? Does anyone happen to kno what is it in a coil like that that would prevent it from working only when it builds up heat? Just so bizarre that it works 100% then nothing at all before repeating the process over again until you leave it overnight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Ahhh cheers for the replies, spewing boys really was hoping it wouldn't be a coil as it's a good one! The coil was in use in 2006 for a couple of years in a drag car, then in probably 2015ish I brought it back and threw it on corty. So it's not exactly new but was hoping being a top of line MSD it would be fine. I do have a couple of standard coils, each with different style posts, however I'm not sure whether they also work straight off the MSD box just as an MSD coil would? Anyone know of a way to test those HVC coils in any way? Going to have a quick search online as well Thanks again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks for reply jack, I don't run a module on the dizzy, I eliminated it and made spade terminals straight onto dizzy. Msd module I'll have to take a look then I guess cheers Msd digital 7 has pretty much all the features EDIT: while I'm here I should confirm that the MsD still has the red led flashing even when the motor won't fire. The tach also reads cranking rpm when not firing either; since this is picked up from the box, the box should be recognizing the fact that the motor is turning Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi guys, been chasing this issue for the last few months now, I'll give you the summary quickly: 250 crossflow, halls effect dizzy, msd Digital 7, HVC 8261 coil After about 15 min or so of driving the motor just cuts out. It then will not start; cranks fine, occasionally farts but does not fire. After a few minutes of waiting it occasionally fires again before getting 5 min of driving in and process repeats. Factory temp gauge says motor is absolutely fine so definitely not a temp issue We made a quick connect from dizzy to msd for 12v ignition and trigger wires, noticed the connector was rubbish so we made another using MSD style connector. Problem came up again. Next time it wouldn't start even after an hour of cooling. Noticed this time tho that tacho wasn't registering cranking rpm, found ground wire from dizzy was faulty. Side of the road fix, fired and got it back home. Remade a real good ground wire. Unfortunately problem persists (tacho registers cranking rpm fine) This has lead to countless side of the road moments and have eventually crawled it back home everytime. Today I've let it idle for a while and waited for the issue to pop up again. When it died and wouldn't start again, quickly had the multimeter and test light with me and went around. The ground connection to dizzy reads fine. The 12v ingnition to dizzy also fine as well. Engine won't fire; so have ruled them out. Waited abit, let it cool down and it fired; so put it back in the garage Any ideas guys?? I pulled plug out when it doesn't fire to make sure it is an electrical issue, and as expected no spark from plug (they are all brand new). Thanks in advance, I enjoy problem solving but this one has left me scratching my head; would much rather it doesn't work at all so we can track down issue, but unfortunately have to have the motor running for a while for the issue to come up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thanks for the replies boys, always good to get a few more opinions. I'm still pretty set on getting a good system, hopefully just set and forget so whatever I throw at it later on it's not going to let go, plus having a heap of headroom is going to be a bonus. I guess the main point of this thread was to see if I'm on the right track and if there's something I've overlooked or got wrong, but from what I can see I seem to have it alright, only exception being there's a couple more options for pumps so I guess I'll just wait and see what proflow pump ando runs on his and make a decision then. Pretty much got all the part numbers I need, I'll price compare a lot of the stuff with some of the local guys here, and see how it compares to getting it from USA and go from there. It's looking like I may end up with something similar to ando's set up with the exception I'll probably be regulating at the carb just have to fork out for a longer return system While we're here , any opinions on drilling thru the sender unit to put in fittings for return line? And will it be a big deal if I run a 5/16" to 3/8" barb adaptor straight after pick up on sender unit before dropping into the pump ? In other words will the 5/16" section make a big difference to the supply to the pump during that initial gravity drop ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks for the info Q I was pretty much ready to do that set up at the start but pretty tempted to do this big set up and just have it done, still confused as to why the Holley tech went against the solid state pump. I get from a numbers point of view that this facet pump will supply the enough fuel even at 7psi, just trying to work out there must be a reason why they don't recommend it, for modified engines maybe... not sure Rob what's the fuel system you're running ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk