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so first off why would you do a t5 conversion? for most people its going to be fuel economy and lower RPM cruising and are not likely to be giving this thing a hard time so a t5 should do the job fine, so why convert a single rail bellhousing and not buy a rod shop bellhousing? well last i looked it was going to cost me almost $900 to my door and that's a lot of fuel money my friends. So if your looking to do this conversation you've probably already done some research but if not, you must use a 6 cylinder t5 from an xf or whenever they started using them to an el Falcon, au and onwards will need custom tail shaft and shifter won't line up, can't used v8 bellhousing or gearbox it would be way too much trouble, 6 cylinder t5 is almost identical to the single rail. This is to document my experience with converting from a single rail with a bellhousing that has only been drilled for single rail in an XC falcon with an almost stock cleveland with an EB diff running 3.27 gears currently sitting on about 2800rpm at 100kmph using about 20.5l/per 100km Ok let's get into it, after you've got your bellhousing/gearbox out first thing you'll need to do to your t5 is turn down the input bearing housing about 1.6mm so it'll fit in the hole, if you don't have access to a lathe a machine shop will make very light work of it and won't cost much at all to get done. i had an empty case to help me work out how to go about it. Then that's done fit it back to the gearbox and after you've got straight as you can you can start working out where your going to tap your new holes, the two top t5 mounting holes can be used so do them first use a punch to mark the holes (transfer punch would make this easy) and then drill and tap, I used 12x1.75 bolts that come with my T5. Bolt the gearbox back onto the bellhousing and now you can workout the two bottom mounts, as you can see the bottom t5 mount's are lower then the face of the bellhousing so what I did for the right side is make a mark just above the t5 hole, drilled and tapped it then bolt the gearbox back on and center punched the case from the inside of the bellhousing and then drilled the t5 case, as for the bottom left there is no meat in the bellhousing casting inline with the t5 case so I tapped a hole just beside the case and used a clamp style mount on this side that consists of a spacer that falls just short of the thickness of the case and another plate that overlaps the case making it clamp down when tightened against it, this could also be used on the other side if you don't want to drill the case. So this should have us sorted for mounting the box to the bellhousing now we'll move onto the cross member, measuring from the face of the box there is about 43mm difference between the two so I used part of the EB cross member and welded it to the back of the cross member about 45mm back (you could use a bit of plate or that ever will pick up the mount,plenty of adjustment no need for it to be perfect just needs to be centre) thinking it would be a great idea to use the square hole but it ended up making it very hard to bolt them together it kinda got stuck between the gearbox and the exhaust headers and I couldn't get it low enough due to the exhaust to get the gearbox mount bolt in the hole. so I think if this hole was slotted it would go much easier. So getting the gearbox in the car I bolted the bellhousing on to the engine and made a few attempts to slide the gearbox on, what I ended up doing is cutting the shifter hole in the floor all the way to the back of the hump mine had about an inch of over hang and that had to go so the shifter housing could get high enough, I also found I couldn't have the shifter Bolted to the gearbox and the hole in my shifter hump is too small to out it through the top so I hung it in the hole with a screwdriver and bolted it on the gearbox after it was in the car. And as I said I struggled with getting the cross member on, I almost dropped one of the headers but ended up getting there. So everything else goes on just like the single rail,. The internet said to fill it with a half and half mix of vmx80 and dex3 ATF and it seems to shift nice, I made a gear stick with the same bend and thread as the single rail and used the knob to make it look like nothing's been changed. Final thoughts are, first gear is a bit short but not the end of the world gets off the line nicely, it doesn't have as positive feel when shifting but still alright, down shifts much nicer than the single rail, sits on about 2200rpm at 100 in 5th. Will have some fuel economy numbers after a few hundred k's. Hopefully this helps I've probably missed something but anyway I did my best. rotio's , i'm told the EL box is the best one to get as its a 'world class' and its a bit stronger. EA T5 1st: 3.50:1 2nd: 2.14:1 3rd: 1.39:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.78:1 EB2-EL T5 (6 cyl) 1st: 3.25:1 2nd: 1.99:1 3rd: 1.29:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.72:1

Hi All, Long time reader first time post. Looking for help/guidance on a my 351 Cleveland build for a XT Fairmont. Car will be 4 speed toploader and 9 inch diff 3:75 ratio. I have OEM 2V closed chamber heads that I was thinking of using. Looking to achieve 350+ FWHP Is this achievable? What combos have others had success with using 2V closed chamber heads? Appreciate your help in advance.

Hey all, Looking for some advice blockfilling my 302 Cleveland. Has anyone done this before and have any advice to share with regards to proceedure, hight of filler, watter flow direction and path through the filled block/heads and any photos of proceedure and results? Cheers for the help in advance

I've almost finished putting a 302 Cleveland into my 89 XF Ute, but have run into some wiring issues. I have put an hei dizzy in but can't seem to get any spark. I've also removed the old tfi wiring and map sensor etc. I can't get the stater to turn using the ignition switch either.

So I thought I might start a topic on OGUN the clevo. Probably a little out of order but here he is being born. Hope you enjoy.

this is the GO-TO thread for everyday cleveland parts will add to this as time goes on, i need to go through the books at work to get current numbers Spark Plugs IRON HEADS NGK: BP5FS (hot plug), BP6FS (standard temp plug), BP7FS (cold plug, gas & some performance applications) Gap: 0.8mm Ignition Coil: Points: SU12R, GT40R, GT40RT Electronic Ignition: Bosch MEC723A high flow Thermostat (still looking for restrictor plate can only find genuine atm): Dayco DT66A: standard thermostat (not recommended) Dayco DT14B-BP Thermostat Gasket: Dayco DTG15 Genuine Restrictor Plate (can still get new from O/S): Brass Heater Hose Fitting: Killkenny Castings: 2 options, KC116 KC117 Oil Filter: Ryco Z9 or Z89A (shorter version of the Z9)

Hey Men Just Wanting To Look At All Your Cleveland Gas Setups anything From Basic To Full LGI Setups so post up some pics of what you all have cheers Jake.

thought i would write up the issue's I've had in the last few weeks with a mates cleveland and how we went about solving it, it may be useful to someone else. i put the engine together for him about 12months ago (maybe a little less), fairly simple combo but with a fair bit of compression. in the last couple of months with the hot days he had noticed it had been knocking/pinging from time to time under load and had started to run on upon shut down. the basic engine combo was 351 cleveland bored 20 thou 650street hp holley with a spacer (i think its 1") RPM Airgap Intake 2v CC heads with a bit of port & chamber work done (not sure what they flowed) and 4v exhaust valves Lunati 62503 cam 11.2:1 compression 6" rods balanced bottom end pacemaker 4>1 headers, twin 2.5" exhaust with Xpipe mallory ignition system toploader 9" 3.25:1 the car made 245rwkw on Lakeside Automotives Dyno we tried backing off the timing at first, it worked, but then the car wasn't performing as well, so we put the timing back to normal, and chucked octane booster in, that shut it up as a temp fix (btw car runs on BP Ultimate only) but we kept searching for things to try. put better leads on with less resistance, put a new coil on, new dizzy cap, then upped the jet size to try and cool the fuel down, which again worked, but then we had a slight stammer. next up was plugs, and i shit you not he's put at least half a dozen sets in in the last month to sort it out. different brands etc we dropped the heat range, again worked, but introduced fouling, changed brands, didn't work. i did a fair bit of research and called up NGK, got through to a tech who had a fair bit of experience working with older cars with cast iron heads. he recommended i look for another plug that had an unprojected tip, this removing a hot spot from the chamber. spent the next day at looking for plugs trying to find the right one, then ordered in a set of NGK B6FS plugs in, same heat range the car had before, which were the plugs lakeside put in. chucked them into his XC, and instantly the car ran perfect again. detonating was solved, no more run on. fixxed, simple. no fouling either which i thought might be an issue. i was tearing my hair out for about 3 weeks trying to sort this fuckin thing and all it needed was the right plug. on the flip side, it was nice to drive an XC again, even if it was someone elses.

Hey guys, well as usual, I get called in to fix up another dodgy wiring job. This one is an XE 351 Burnout car I need to get running. I was just wondering if I list whats in the car and what is running on it , if someone may have a simple wiring set up for it. I can't even get the thing to turn the starter motor with the wiring in there now, it's a joke. Ok, heres what we have: XE Falcon- wiring basic for Burnout car. 351C motor- 2 wire alternator C4 gearbox with selector position switch. Battery re-located to boot. Problem is she won't start, I think it's the wiring. Have put a screwdriver across the starter motor and she wound over. It has a Gearbox selector/neutral switch and somehow that, or the way the starter is wired is wrong. Also the coil was getting super hot, so think we may need a ballast resistor in the line from the Ignition to the Coil. There is also no relay for the starter motor, which seems odd to me. Also, the "Kill switch" does not cut out Jack shit, but I can sort that. I have Fuel pump switch working, Thermo fan working. All I really need is correct wiring for the starter motor with C4 auto and gearbox switch and just the general motor wiring including alternator. The manuals are good, but made for a factory wired car, not a Burnout stripped out one. Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers, Jack.