ando76

Members
  • Content count

    2,874
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    48

ando76 last won the day on October 4 2017

ando76 had the most liked content!

5 Followers

About ando76

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/21/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Cairns
  • Interests
    building stuff for x-flows and then flogging/testing them in either speedway or burnout cars.

Recent Profile Visitors

9,898 profile views
  1. Yep xpt your on it. With the ute you could place the turbo further upstream than a sedan. It is true that the length of the charge pipe would not be as efficient as an intercooler but those that have the rear mount set up report good intake air temps. Lag I think could be managed as you have suggested and I think with the already good torque of the 250 you could live with any that was experienced. It's not like a 2litre rear mount.
  2. Why doesn't anyone want to build a rear mount turbo flow? It would be so different from all the sheep out there. It would make good power and torque for fek all and if you had a ute it would make it so easy. Oil reservoir in the space beside the tank in the tray. Diff pump pushing the oil around the turbo. Modern TBI Holley style injection on a four barrel manifold. It would be reliable, relatively cheap, easy to tune and a real sleeper. I actually spoke with bloke from Dalby about this idea this arvo. Cause he was talking supercharger, but wanted sleeper. Those two things don't go together. But rear mount turbo, no intercooler needed. TBI on a four barrel would be well below the bonnet and would keep,the stealth look. Yeah barra turbo would be easier and potentially cheaper, but to be honest it's been done to death in my opinion. Why be another sheep in the flock.....
  3. Just leave it to the tuner. Honestly trying to road tune something and doing plug reads after you have let it idle or driven it home is futile work. You'll end up creating a big headache for the tuner if you continue. Trust me. if you continue you will also end up costing yourself more money at the tuner.
  4. Agree. You really have to want to do a crossflow these days. The truth is they are an expensive engine to do when compared to any modern stuff. It's the price you pay to be different from the sheep. If your willing to pay the price and build a good one, you won't be disappointed. There is something very special about kicking modern cars arses in an old xd, cart spring and crossflow powered race car. For that feeling alone I'm happy to keep playing with them.
  5. The gain with a charger will be in low and mid range torque. Of course if you turn it harder the hp gain will be higher. The kit is expensive yes and if your handy you could make something cheaper, but if you charged yourself an hourly rate you'd be very close to the price of the kit. If you have the coin, want to be different and love the sound of a traditional blower I reckon go for it. I was going with the m90 blower on my shop ute but I've been that flat with work I haven't even looked at it for 2 years now. Lol.
  6. REPEAT Use the white wire only as trigger. No need to select Hall effect on your 6al 2 it will sense Hall or magnetic and do it itself Run your fuel pump seperate from your MSD. REPEAT run your fuel pump seperate from MSD. I like to have the fuel pump on a switch, with a relay of course. Starting procedure is turn pump on, get fuel pressure up. Switch pump off. Turn key - engine fires - turn pump on. WHY? because if you do it to acc on or any other way when your sitting there trying to tune and plot a curve the pump is running dead headed and super heating the fuel and wearing out your pump. Also with that starting procedure your not hammering the needle and seat all the time. Your issue will be in the way you have wired the 12v switched I'd say. That MSD box needs to see full battery voltage or it will not like it. Trust me it won't. I'm still at Cam's working on a project and I'm not available. Sorry bud but I'm sure you will get there.
  7. Yes and if I had a dollar for every time people wired it that way, even after I told them the correct wiring I would have enough money for a carton
  8. Est ground goes to an earth. It can be body engine - whatever. I have even earthed it in the dizzy body before. But really just run it to an earth on the body somewhere and it will be fine. Listen to gerg's advice on the map sensor. Do exactly as he says in relation to the sensor and you will not go wrong.
  9. Best spot for them in my opinion. Makes it real easy for the tuner is one reason, keeping the box out of the heat of the bay is the other.
  10. Nah. Use the white with est on 6al2 not white blue.
  11. My second weakness. Im over at Cams but I'll see how I go.
  12. I recommend inside the car. Engine bay and msd don't usually go together to well. Yes est is Hall effect. Est wiring black/brown to ground yellow/green to white msd (trigger) brown to red msd (12 volt switched power).
  13. Just use the est dizzy. Forget that magnetic xe shit.
  14. Food. My ultimate weakness
  15. Bit stretched mate. Have a couple of days over at cam's working on a project. If we finish up early enough I may have a spare day.