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ando76 last won the day on May 2 2018

ando76 had the most liked content!


About ando76

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/21/1971

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  • Interests
    building stuff for x-flows and then flogging/testing them in either speedway or burnout cars.

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  1. Try as you may, sometimes the organic component in the car will always find a way to break it or make it go slower. Having said that Roadkill rocks!!!
  2. I believe that's why he is going with the programmable msd. It has nitrous retard function in built along with all the other good things inside.
  3. That's why I started making these for x flows running the big hvc2 coil. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. The est dizzy will trigger it just fine. Forget the xe 2 wire dizzy. They are shit.
  5. Great choice on the ignition side. Can't get better in my opinion, well for under 13:1 comp anyway. The ss has some power so you won't be missing much. 230@.050 will make good power with a good cylinder head. Bowl and chamber work and a slight touch in the runners will give you great low and midlift figures. That will suit that cam and nos perfectly great combo so far. Add a decent head and I reckon you'll be surprised by the torque it makes. Leave the big hp numbers to those that are impressed by such things. Torque shifts weight. Im liking this a lot.
  6. It's good gear mate. Them Germans know their stuff.
  7. Thought it was just me that couldn't see the pics..... good to see progress.
  8. Do you have an afr gauge in the car? If not get one. I prefer plastic tanks for alcohol based fuels. Make sure you get rated fuel hose. If your doing it on the cheap as an experiment then just go to pirtek or similar and get some of their clear plastic braided hose. It's rated for fuel and alcohol (used in post mix machines) and is cheap, flexible, light and easy on the pocket. Id suggest a good dyno tune.
  9. Yeah, I wouldn't blend it. I wouldn't use it unless you set everything up to take it to be honest, otherwise It's a waste of money and time. I disagree on the cylinder pressure to burn it. I hear the same stuff with methanol. Fact is - if the ignition system is up to it - it will burn. Methanol rotary engines absolutely hammer. They don't have comp, but they still work well with meth. It's one of those common myths around meth and alcohol based fuels. Fact is it will burn if the spark is there and there will be a torque gain. Will that gain be the same as a dedicated e-85 set up - no way, but it will still work. E85 is here to stay and really is so suited to tuff street applications. Alcohol (and lpg for that matter) engines just run so clean. Cooler, cleaner and more efficient burn. Big torque gains and the ability to run higher comp safely. Why wouldn't you want to set up an engine and fuel system to run it on the street.
  10. It will idle fine, but if you have any crap in your tank or lines the alcohol will move it and clog your filters in a heart beat.
  11. 7.5cc dish pistons on 200 rods come up pretty regularly on speedways parts forums on Facebook. I have a customer in Townsville that may be looking at selling his as we are building a new motor for him using old acl single comp ring flat tops (between him and I we have enough for a complete set and spares). Most people are just going barra these days so they come up cheap, most have seen some use but in reality they are still a good piston. Tune wrecks more pistons than the actual material of the piston in my experience. Your plan looks solid, 42cc head means your looking a c2 at a guess. Make sure you get rid if the sharp edge where the in,et and exhaust swirls meet, especially with the gas. Looking firward to seeing this one go together. Enjoy. PS. Can't see the photos.
  12. Boink- your going to soft on comp. you will have issues. It's not a hemi 6 with an iron head. You need the static comp if your going 235@.050 cause you will have some overlap. Trust me, every piece of the puzzle must work together to get a result. If you don't get that comp right you'll kill that package very quickly. Even with the gas. Ive got 10.9:1 in the shop ute with a 230@.050 and it's lovely. Snaps hard. Reminds me - I better do a comp test on that thing to see what sort of cylinder pressure it has.
  13. Clarko does an alloy shifter nut for them. Works a treat. They usually don't need much. A good clean and fresh oil will have most up and running. Extension housing seals always go as do selector shafts seals and the little bush that goes under the shifter. Other than that they are pretty damn stout. On the speedway cars we drill and tap the breather outlet and run a breather li e up into the engine bay with a little filter. Stops them having a huff and running fluid out the breather when you flog them hard. We also run them a fraction over full to allow for corners. Less of a problem for drag racing.
  14. No good. Zoran should be able to flow it for you and then you know where it's at and can make a plan from there