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ando76 last won the day on May 2

ando76 had the most liked content!


About ando76

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/21/1971

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    building stuff for x-flows and then flogging/testing them in either speedway or burnout cars.

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  1. If your going to track race it and have a tuneable ecu then I'd forget the hydraulic and go straight to a solid. Hydraulic Cams just can't deal with the rigours of constant mid to high rpm. The reality is a solid will make more power and way more reliably than the hydraulic. With the right springs you won't be doing tappet checks as often as you would imagine. The rest sounds good. Don't forget tomfactor in a half decent sump for track work.
  2. If bang for buck is your biggest determining factor, just put a Barra in it. You could buy a whole Barra for next to nothing and install it with its loom for stupid cheap. Have a look in the member builds at the xf race car one of the members built. It goes hard. The speedway boys throw Cams and a tune at them and get 275rwhp (manually shifted) without raising a sweat. As said above, to make that power from a xflow you need to be sick in the head like me and many others on here. But hey it's horses for courses. People still build fast Holden red motors...... The Barra conversion is relatively straight forward as many have done it.
  3. Yeah. The young fella that had the ute before me would have had that done. The xf also had a t5 in it and a number of other additions. Nothing would surprise me. It's even worse now tho. Now it's got xg xr6 seats, Xh vinyl floor, Xh Dixie seat and short t5 consul, xg roof lining and inner panels. Xh rear bumper and spare wheel wind down set up. The list goes on and on. You know how it goes.
  4. Glad to see the old hybrid diff came in handy. What's even more odd is that diff was in an xf ute!!!
  5. Smart man speaking here^^^^. Listen.
  6. If the est is working then leave it. If it's not then you could use the xe magnetic dizzy. Just make sure it's in good condition and keep the revs sensible. Dont throw the est dizzy away - you will need it when you do the built motor.
  7. Just a bit of an update as to why the xg passenger side cable doesn't fit up nicely to the xf when doing this conversion. The very forward most cable mounting bracket on the passenger side is 45mm further forward on the xf compared to xg. This means the cable has to travel further to clamp into the mount. If you mount the xg cable in the xf clamp you will see that the cable doesn't runs on an angle over to the primary lever - not straight like the xg. Next difference is the mounting pivot point for the primary lever. Yes the lever is very similar lever for xf and xg but the mounting point for the pivot is further out on the xg than xf. Again this means that the cable has further to travel to hook up. Nkw you could stuff around and move the mounting clamp further back and also weld in the xg pivot bracket, but really it's way easier just to install the xf primary lever and longer adjuster as the others have done above.
  8. Agree. No easier engine to learn on. It's not that hard and if you take shots on your phone you'll have a colour workshop manual to reference from. If it has wiped a lobe (which is pretty common) you can bet the oil pump will be junk. The oil pump cops any metal dropped through the engine first. Yeah the filter will catch it after the pump has done its job, but you can bet the inside of the pump will look like a concrete mixer. Full gaskets sets are silly cheap. Borrow or buy an engine crane and have a crack. There are some good people on here who will help you through if you get stuck.
  9. Be interesting to see what it runs then. Good stuff
  10. Yes good job indeed. To be that far ahead out of the box and with gearbox issues is truly impressive, especially in an xe. Well done to all involved.
  11. Oh and it's a 4 barrel car!!!!
  12. It's not Steve's car. It's a mate of his. Looks like the bar has been reset.
  13. The flow bench just tests at a constant pressure. 28" is the industry standard. It can't account for boost as it relies on suction to get the cfm reading. Porting for boost will always draw different opinions, as with most aspects of engine building. It is generally accepted that if you can make the port flow more, then it will make boost quicker and therefor make more power at the same boost pressure of an unported engine. Ive spoken with Ray Hall at length about boost and porting for boost and he simply said - do what you are doing for aspo. Ray has been playing with boost for a damn long time. If your interested hit up his face book page and look at the Audi he is building g himself now. He is a champion bloke. Doesn't suffer fools.
  14. Cool. They look good all tig welded up.
  15. Nice. Moly or mild