ando76

Unknown camshaft equals troubles really. By the time you send it to get a cam doctor sheet for dial in the cost is already close to a new cam. Have a look on the end of the r-grind cam for any identifiers. Might save time. As others have said, nut out exactly what you want from the engine and then build a combo to suit. COMBINATION being the emphasis. Not all of us want a 280-300rwhp crossy. Whilst they are fun and manageable on the street, they are not cheap. Gerg is spot on with his recommendations, on lift, duration and lobe sep. in my opinion a good fun street engine hits bloody hard off the bottom, has enough vacuum for decent brakes and has a mid range hit that gets you very excited. Many years ago I did a small 2 barrel engine for a bloke well past his 50’s who lives in Brissy. 240@.050 and .510 lift solid Tighe cam. It does everything very nicely. Runs 3.45 gears as he runs it at Willowbank on club days. Drives it everywhere and smiles every time. Made 198rwhp on Zox performance dyno. Ultraflow 2 barrel, 500 Holley a set of rockers, extractors etc. - all second hand to keep it budget friendly. Follow the cam grinders guidllines on comp and gearing and you can’t go too far wrong as they are an excellent base. Enjoy

^^^^^ and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning.

Neo 2 piece Windsor rear main seal is the go. As Banno said, just gotta get rid of the old retaining spike for the rope seal. A small pin punch knocks it out. As to head gaskets, just stick to the $55 durapro units. They seal just fine. Bad tune kills headgaskets more so than the material they are made of. I use them in 12:1 comp endurance Motorsport engines and they survive just fine.

Yep, when they were new. Now I doubt any of those old systems would be close to being able to deal with anything. The pure wear and tear on the vane and all the other systems would just push them to next to useless. Hell if you even let the rocker cover seal and dipstick seal go they go into spaz mode.

It’s probably more of a case that the cat brought the horrendous efi set up back closer to original parameters and hit an air fuel ratio that the engine liked.

Crow sell 5/16, .110" wall thickness pushrods and most sell 5/16.080" wall. 3/8 pushrods are also available as gerg has highlighted. The stock pushrods are marginal at best. 5/16, .080" wall would be the minimum I'd use.

Power valve timing, whole heaps of stuff that a good tuner should be able to sort. But with the o2 sensor- a home tuner will get it bloody close.

Sounds remarkably like the engine someone messaged my business page about the other day. To answer some questions; . yes 3&4 will run hotter (leaner) than the other cylinders due to their location. We have played with the plenum to address this issue and had some success. . As you've tried everything from the ignition side of things and most other mechanical things I'd be looking at tune, especially looking at those plugs. As I told the bloke that messaged me - get a $200 o2 sensor and gauge from Just Race Parts and then you'll have half a chance of getting the tune close. . If the carb is east/wested it's not uncommon to have to pull fuel out of the primaries and a good amount, as your miss is occurring early on I'd say your lucky to be cracking the secondaries so it may well be that. But without an o2 sensor - your in guess land. Oh and usually the fuel you take out of the primaries ends up going back into the secondaries. . I agree with gerg- the best money you ever will spend on your car is on a dyno session with a competent operator who knows carbs. . You mention that your running the Hall effect dizzy (which is good). Have you tried another dizzy? I have had Hall effect sensor go walk about and cause this condition. . Has coil condition been checked? Not "it's brand new" - has primary and secondary resistance been confirmed as in spec. Both when the coil is cold and after being driven. Even new stuff fails - especially in the made in China era.

Fuchs for the win. If it's a streeter - 1/3 of a bottle of brake in lube with every oil,change helps. Race motors the oil gets dumped every meeting so less of an issue.

Up to you mate, but as I said I'd be shopping around. Yep I'd get the dg2 from crow, but I'd source everything else seperately. Crow used to be very good, not so much now, particularly their springs. I still buy my dg2's off them but rarely anything else. The crow timing chain isn't a rollmaster. Just get a genuine rollmaster from eBay. There are a couple of sellers on their with new old stock.

Don't use the crow timing gear set, use ROLLMASTER. Trust me. Jump onto precisions website and just get stock replacement springs, that way you won't need retainers and locks - unnecessary expense. Same with pushrods, stock will be fine and if you can find some xc units you'll have an even stronger pushrods. Forget the unmbrella seals, they are junk. You will got the proper efi valve stem seals in the full gasket set. Yes if you got with a crow stock replacement cam then you will need the dg2 dizzy gear. It's got to do with the hardness of the aftermarket blanks. Standard blanks are junk soft (why the drop lobes at will) hence they can run the junk soft dizzy gear.

Plus 1 for precision. They are doing a lot more direct selling now and they have good stuff at close to trade prices. Shop around and buy the components individually and you will save plenty. That camtech cam will work nice. Make sure you order the efi gasket set. Even tho it's a stock rebuild, id put a rollmaster double row chain in it. Precision sell JP gear sets and I'm not a fan. Ebay has rollmaster units at good pricing.

The standard efi brain box can't cope with much at all. Unless it's a stock rebuild for authenticity, I'd go with an aftermarket computer and loom if your chasing any sort of performance or even just reliability out of the car. Everything on them is just so old and antiquated it's very hard to keep them running nicely in standard form, let alone with a bump stick. A good aftermarket computer like a haltec haltec can be had for very little dollars in reality. It will give you endless tuning options, the after sales support is tremendous and with all modern sensors the old girl will purr. The next best compromise would be an e series computer graft in and chip. The reality is the cam they list for efi compatability would give very little improvement over a FRESH stock engine.

The camtech you have chosen is a nice 218@.050 with .510 lift and a stock 110 lobe sep. Either the c1 or c2 will work just fine. A good seat cut and some minor bowl works will make it sweet. I put together a similar combo for a customer in Ipswich but it was slightly bigger at 240@.050 and .510 and solid (tighe 140T). Because of the bigger duration and overlap I was able to give it 11.7:1 Comp and it loves life. It's a 2 barrel deal with ultraflow manifold and 500 Holley. Made 198rwhp on Zok's performance's dyno and a big flat torque line. Both the c1&c2 have a sharp point where the intake and exhaust swirls meet in the chamber. Rolling that over reduces the chances of detonation. Good luck with the build.

Here is a side shot to show the extra clearance. It's about 1/2" less pump snout. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I modify the sexy ally proflow clevo pulleys and older xf non air con water pumps to give way more fan clearance. But for a budget option slicing the threads off is no problem. You will find that the shaft material is very hard. Take it slow or cool the shaft with compressed air as you cut it to avoid damaging the pump seal. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Crossflow powered cars first and third in the 2019 Queensland Modified Sedan Title. Mighty Clarko's Performance XE came home first, FG Falcon 2nd and Shallcross Cortina 3rd. FORD podium lock out. Yahoo. Long live the mighty crossflow.

5.8. 9" inch gears. It was a spool issue.

On night 2 of the Aussies we were 12th fastest out of 96 cars, with the wrong diff gears in because we broke the shorter gears. 4 trips thru the scrutineering shed, basically after every heat. Fair to say the old crossflow upset a few big dollar efi teams. Makes it sweeter that the car passed every test.

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Bloody good feeling. No bullshit performance here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah. Compact, pretty robust and FORD stud pattern.

So I thought I might start a topic on OGUN the clevo. Probably a little out of order but here he is being born. Hope you enjoy.

CLEVOLET

It has a Mitsubishi l300 front end welded on. Cortina rack with lengthened rack ends. Ken did it all in the bush with a tape and a welder. She definitely steers way way better now.