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waderobertson last won the day on August 26 2019

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About waderobertson

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  1. waderobertson

    Checking 275 wheel clearance on the XF

    No she's after market mate... 'regal peacock green' its called. Not the manliest of names but I'm happy with it!!!
  2. waderobertson

    Checking 275 wheel clearance on the XF

    Hey gerg, +6mm for the back and 0 for the front mate. I'll take some pics of clearances if you want? Cheers.
  3. waderobertson

    Checking 275 wheel clearance on the XF

    A few pics of the wheels on the wagon. 10x17 6mm offset. I've ended up with a little more guard clearance that I had expected so as it sits there's about 50mm of travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll slap a full tank of gas and some weight in the back and road test it is see how it goes... maybe a small spacer in the back might be in order, hopefully not as I'm happy with stance. (note: the current tyres are 275x40 slicks while I wait for 4 weeks for the actual tyres to arrive from over the puddle.) 8x17 235x45 are spot on for fronts. I still don't know what I've got in the way of front and rear springs but given the overall diameter of the wheels are the same as standard I reckon it's been dropped about 40-50mm. Hopefully this is useful for anyone that might be getting mixed messages about running 10inch wheels on an otherwise standard setup, I know I did!
  4. waderobertson

    250 Crossflow build

    Did you end up pulling the trigger on this mate?
  5. Hey team, About to fork out for a set of the below for the wagon. They only do a 10" and 8" option for the V51s. Naturally I want to go as wide as possible on the rear, which (for me) means 275. I'm keen for a stance like the below with a 25-30mm rake and some guard clearance at the rear. Photo credit to ford muscle cars instagram account. I used an online calculator to see what I had to play with (look at the 'new' figures) when running a 275x35 on the 17x10 rim (0 offset): I made up this highly engineered and precise measuring tool, which uses the diameter above, 275 tyre width at 0 offset and used it to test inner and outer clearance. Result was a 6mm clearance to the top of the outer guard which includes a someone 'organically' rolled lip (aka rough as guts) and a 20mm clearance to the closest point of the inner guard. Inclination is to run with a 6mm offset to gain a little more clearance to the outer guard, and about 50mm of suspension travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll be running 17x8 on the front with 235 and 0 offset, which don't seem to present any issues with a lowered but otherwise standard suspension set up.
  6. waderobertson

    A few electrical issues

    That's what I thought mate, but I have two motors and both work when I run them straight off the battery. I really don't want to have to swap out the wiper stem unless I really have to but if the motors work and there's current and earth (which there is) then I'm thinking it must be the washer button unless I'm missing something between, but the washer wiring doesn't go through a relay according to the wiring diagram
  7. waderobertson

    A few electrical issues

    ... and when I originally said 'wiper motor' of course I meant 'washer motor'
  8. waderobertson

    A few electrical issues

    Slowly working my way through a number of electrical issues with the XF (among a plethora of other work ons!) A couple of questions for today... Washer motor I've run into a dead end on this. Washer motor works when bridged on the battery. There is power going to the washer motor plug in the engine bay (yellow/violet wire). The brass contacts in the wiper stem are touching when pressed (when I push them together with a voltmeter there is a slight current registering). Wipers themselves work fine and I have traced/ checked all the plug connections. However, when I connect the washer motor and press the button, no life. Is there anything I'm missing here? The wiring diagrams turn my eyelids inside out but I have stared at them for ages trying to figure out if there's a fuse/relay I've missed or something else I should be checking... Rear window demist I have this relay connected to the rear window demist/ heater. It's buggered. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like this is an aftermarket addition so hoping I can bin in and reconnect the voilet/ white wire without issue...? You'll see below that I bridged the relay and the heater works sweet as, just don't want to inadvertently cause another issue for myself.
  9. waderobertson

    some help with 34 ADM wiring and hoses

    You're right, I just had a pic of the alternator on the donor I have... completely different. Appreciate the reply, thanks alot.
  10. waderobertson

    some help with 34 ADM wiring and hoses

    Thanks very much, really helpful and much appreciated!
  11. waderobertson

    some help with 34 ADM wiring and hoses

    Yep, slowly working the content into my brain. Also reading through some of your other carby related posts ... it's slowly sinking in.
  12. waderobertson

    some help with 34 ADM wiring and hoses

    Thanks for the reply @deankdx Here's a pic of the tag. Confirm yellow wire that should go to choke does go to the back of the alternator. (photo doesn't show the wire but I checked under tape) Close up of the cut off solenoid. end of it is fouled up with what feels/ looks like plastic... can scrape it out with a craft knife. Question, that red wire by the idler screw, should it have power when ignition is on or when cranked... it's at 0 when ignition is on. Close up of the plug, confirm Red/Green and Pink/Blue wires from lume. Note the black/yellow wire going up to choke was connected to pink/blue wire that should be on the negative coil terminal... now in the red/green and with expected voltage. Another close up of the above this time showing the wires above beside the pink/grey wire that shoots down to the coil... I don't know where this comes from or supposed to go to... Close up of coil below. Red and green to dizzy, black condenser wire dangling at the back - I only just saw this today and Uncle Google tells me that's not good and potential for rough idle etc The only other wire that seems to be having a grand old time hanging out alone is this blue fella...
  13. waderobertson

    some help with 34 ADM wiring and hoses

    Thought I'd throw this up to avoid completely hi-jacking @Fingers distributor thread. I'd appreciate comments/ advice on what I've got going on in around the carby/ intake side of my 250 - which I bought a few years back and haven't touched the engine at all while doing body work and interior. The things been off the road pretty much since I bought it and it remains 'non-legal' so can't even tell you how she runs with any real certainty, except to say it made the Dunedin to Christchurch trip with out shitting the bed. Since then it's been nothing but in and out of the shed and on car trailers to panel and paint. I will say that it's always needed plenty of pedal encouragement to start. When it's warmed up she'll crank over nicely but when cold she's a pig and idle has always been a bit 'surgy' - like it idles sweet for a bit then has a wee rough patch where the revs drop and if i wind the idler screw down enough it'll go very close to stalling, kind like when you turn the dizzy a little and revs bottom out. Anyway over the last few days and me trawling through old threads (thanks @deankdx @gerg and @Mr Polson for recent comments) it's clear there's a few gremlins lurking about. As of right now I know the cut off solenoid isn't connected (have another solenoid to fit), the rocker cover gasket needs replacing as oil was dribbling down to plug #4 (I have one here for tomorrow) and there's a question mark over the acc diaphragms. I'd appreciate any comments on the pics below, namely: The green cap/housing that should be on the auto choke has gone walk about - is that the actual thermo or just for cosmetics? The yellow wire that normally goes to the cap is having a good old time hanging out by himself... mine has a black/yellow wire that is plugged in to a 2 plug pin shown in 2nd pic In the pic below you can just see the red wire that normally goes to the cut off solenoid (black plastic just under manifold) is connected to the coil on the same side as the red wire that runs to the dizzy (green wire also running to dizzy from coil). I pulled this wire off the coil yesterday and the engine wouldn't fire with out it... should this be in play or should the coil only have the red & green wires and the lead to the dizzy? Check out the hose on the right of the image - 2 parts with a threaded join. Kink looks ugly - is that an issue interms of restricting flow? Fitting that screws into the top of the manifold - just loops around from the top to the bottom connection. Should that be like that? All other lines and hoses look like they are where they need to be based on pics from others.
  14. waderobertson

    Turbo BlowThrough Crossy Setup (Planning)

    Where did you end up with this build Kiwi-E?
  15. waderobertson

    Xflow Distributor information? EST? TFI?

    Just shooting back to the dizzy issue... Is there any tips/ tricks/ pitfalls to watch for when lifting and turning the gear? For example do I need to take the 1/2 inch adjusting screw right out? Is there enough room to lift it high enough without knocking the intake manifold? Are there any other elements that need to be tweaked to make things work?