XF EDDIE

The original dash only had 140k on it but it ate a cam so Im thinking that has something to do with it, it was putting the light out with the original dash but the gauge is flashing when idling in gear. Im gonna do an oil change on it and chuck some 20w60 in it to see if that helps

Got a sender off ebay that seems to work but my oil pressure situation doesnt look too good so Ill be hooking back up the mechanical gauge to get a better look. I cant figure how the factory light would have been wired with the sender so it must have just omitted it for the ghia aswell.

Well shit, got the dash in and when its hot it starts flashing and to top it all off I had to pull the oil pressure light as due to the new sender it wont go out and messes with the readings. Anyone with one of these clusters or a car that came with one know if they came with an oil pressure light? Maybe it was omitted due to the gauge

Hard to see on camera but the bottom line is noticibly dimmer on one side and has deterioation around the cathode wires so I have some hope

Could be the fuel cut off solenoid

It happens on the ghia cluster also, oil pressure reads max and volts start flashing. Im guessing it has something to do with the stray earth caused by the sensor switching off. Im also exited (and slightly nervous) for the vfds aswell. The process involves pumping an increased voltage into the cathode wires to burn off any impuritys or oxidation, this runs the risk of killing the vfd if you put too much in so you have to be very carefull and a bit lucky but it can help brighten them significantly and fix dark spots. Ive got the tacho apart and it doesnt look like anythings wrong so im just gonna clean the connectors and send it but Ill drop a before photo for the vfds after work

Found and fixed! My headlights were cutting out and taking the tail lights with them. Turns out not only was my earth bad but the terminals on the circut breaker near the two relays were rusted to high hell, after cleaning them up all was good. Also fixed the volt meter issue with the spac cluster, turns out without the proper sender for the oil pressure once the engine starts and the pressure switch disconnects the lack of earth screws with the voltmeter. By connecting it to earth it reads properly when running. Ive got the sender ordered and Ive got the spac cluster apart to fix the tacho and hopefully rejuvinate the vfds to fix the dark spot in my fuel gauge (Ill upload photos when I do it) so more is coming in the future

Well abit has happened, with starting a new job I havent had the time but have had the money so I took it off the road for a few months and gave it a birthday. Gave up on getting the seat replaced and just got it repaired and reupholstered, while I had it out I added new sound deadening and vinyl floor and took the opportunity to get a full 2.5" exhaust fabbed up by a mate extractors, glasspacks and all. Got the air con working aswell with the original compressor! Just had a peirced condenser. After all that the water pump, welch plugs and heater core sprung leaks so it was another week untill I got it all sealed up but its water tight and alot colder inside this winter. New headlights with plans to swap in the original lenses once I have a free weekend. Got some electrical work this arvo so Ill make this a two parter

Imgur won't let me upload photos due to format issues so I'll have to add those later as well as torque specs. For bushing removal you're best off watching a video as they all come out mostly the same way. Firstly you'll want to pull the calipers and rotors off, the caliper bracket is held in with two bolts behind the rotor (see attached) and then can be pried off the rotor as you would when doing brakes. To get the rotor off use a chisel or screwdriver between the gap between the rotor and dust cover to pop it off, then pull off the split pin (don't be cheap - replace it with a new one when assembling) the keeper and then remove the nut. It should then come off with the bearings (now is the time to re-grease them) and to get the rear bearing out you can use a flat screwdriver in-between the inner race of the bearing and the inner side of the seal, you can reuse this if you're gentle but it's best to replace it. Now that you've got the rotor off the dust shield behind it will be held on by three bolts, once these are out give it a yank and it'll come off. To remove ball joints: First split the ball joint from the knuckle with your method of choice and then undo the 3 bolts holding it in place (5 for the lower with the castor arm bolts). Installation is the reverse of removal. (pulling both ball joints and the tie rod end will free the knuckle) Use the same splitting method to remove tie rod ends and then either mark or count the turns as you wind it out. To remove lower control arm: First Undo the nut holding the lower ball joint to the knuckle and then split it from the knuckle using your method of choice however leave it loosely attached to stop it from moving when you undo the castor arm bolts. Undo the sway bar link (sandwich of 4 bushings) and then undo the castor arm (rod going to the front at an angle) Undo it from the frame side first to avoid it spinning and then you can undo it from the lower control arm via the two bolts going through the ball joint however this isn't necessary if you're not removing the ball joint. Then mark the position of the camber bolt and remove it. Now just wiggle and pry downwards to get it out.

This has been a long time coming and isnt going to be complete as the upper control arm and shocks were omited from this guide. I will hopefully ammend this once I have gotten around to it but feel free to add anything you see fit. With that being said once you get into it its pretty easy as the suspension on these are dead simple.

The old girl is back on the road! After a sketchy tyre scrubing drive to the tyre shop I now have two new tyres and an aligned car. Ive got my photos of the rebuild (which was easier than expected!) And will be writing the guide up soon. Ill do the suspension check guide on a different car as this one was tight as a bell even before the ball joints but all in all its been fun being behind the wheel of the old girl again.

The passanger side is done! Once I started it was pretty simple with the only hickup being splitting the top ball joint. The replacements seem of good quality with the same range as the originals and after replacing the lower control arm it tracks much better.

Modern parts suck! Had to die grind the inside of the lower control arm bush to get the bolt in

Ive cracked into the suspention and I dont think Im the first one, Its rocking black pedders shocks and the lower ball joint and bushings are still good. Since Im replacing the lower control arm anyway its getting a new bushing aswell as ball joints all round but so far its been okay with only the upper ball joint having play

I got some nos kyb's for the front but I havent decided for the back, probably gonna go with monroe