XF EDDIE

Well ive done a compression test and everything is bad. First off the tips of the plugs were all wet with water so there have been more water hiding in the intake and second the readings arent great with all cylinders being zero except for for number 1 which was 30. I could hear compression when I put the gauge in and this gauge has been very dodgy before so im going to rerun the test with a new gauge. However if these readings are correct what does this mean? Bent valves across the board?

The engine dosent sound too fucked up (no knocking or scraping) just sounds like it has a dead battery. So if the rods are bent could I still run a leakdown test to see if the valves are still good? Im just thinking if just the rods are bent can I just get some used rods and just slap it back together?

The oil has no water in it as I got to the other side before it died. Yeah flooded road with overgrown depth markers, water was only about 30 cm deep but this car is too low for almost any water and so it went over the bonnet and flooded the intake. Im worried if maybe the main bearing caps would have been damaged, if the block and head are salvagable ill put some new rods in it and do it up to xr6t spec. Also might be a dumb question but would el rods fit? I got an el bottom end in the scrap heap and it would be nice to get something out of it

That probably would be the go, although if most of the guts are ok I was maybe thinking of doing a turbo build (nothing too crazy just put some stock xr6t parts on it if i can find them cheap)

Ill give that a try. If con rods are fked what else needs doing or could I get some rods and go?

3 days ago I learned the meaning of if its flooded forget it and my fg falcon got the engine flooded with water. I pulled the plugs out and got the water out of the cylenders but it wont run now and the engine sounds very lumpy. Im planning on running a compression test but what kinda damage am I gonna be in for. Im already suspecting bent con rods or bent valves but I dont know how to check that apart from just pulling the head and looking at it. Any help would be much appreciated!

Hey thanks for your help everyone, turns out that for some reason he decided to sell the car which he paid $3500 for $100 to a guy who is making it a paddock basher even though he was previously offered over a grand for it. He decided to tell me this afternoon even though he did it a week ago. So theres some time Ill never get back chasing parts. On the flip side this thread has given me some useful info about btr boxes.

Ok so b series transmissions are a no go? Ill see if I can get one from an au, any difference between year models?

I'm not sure if this is ok on this forum because its for an AU so let me know if I'm in the wrong place. Recently a mate killed the BTR 4 speed in his series 3 AU and he wants to pay me $500 to do the job. Now I am wondering what was different between the btr's between the models. I found a box out of a BF that is supposedly in good condition but I'm not sure what if anything needs to be changed to fit it to a AU. So what boxes are compatible and what do I need to keep from the old box? Also is it worth it to rebuild these gearboxes or am I better off just getting a new one?

This forum is (in my opinion) one of the best out there when it comes to active users as well as the quality of information on the site. It would be nice to bring that to some of the newer stuff.

Thanks for the rundown. I'm pretty sure its not a fairlane cluster but ill just plug it in and see what happens. Also is the oil pressure sender in the same position as on the crossflows?

Seems weird but knowing ford it wouldn't be surprising

Ahh so without that the screen will be dim? Seems a bit odd but I guess Ill find out. Also I suppose those are called trip meters cus I cant think of anything better to call them.

I thought both clusters had the trip meter? When it gets here Ill tear the old one apart and see if i can just switch the ic that runs the odometer

I recently found an EL falcon 'sports' cluster with the oil and volt gauge for cheap and would like to replace the cluster on my XH as the screen has bleached and the last 4 digits are unreadable. Is this a direct swap, will I need extra sensors for the motor and can I change the odometer reading on the new cluster? Any help would be much appreciated!