XF EDDIE

This has been a long time coming and isnt going to be complete as the upper control arm and shocks were omited from this guide. I will hopefully ammend this once I have gotten around to it but feel free to add anything you see fit. With that being said once you get into it its pretty easy as the suspension on these are dead simple.

Imgur won't let me upload photos due to format issues so I'll have to add those later as well as torque specs. For bushing removal you're best off watching a video as they all come out mostly the same way. Firstly you'll want to pull the calipers and rotors off, the caliper bracket is held in with two bolts behind the rotor (see attached) and then can be pried off the rotor as you would when doing brakes. To get the rotor off use a chisel or screwdriver between the gap between the rotor and dust cover to pop it off, then pull off the split pin (don't be cheap - replace it with a new one when assembling) the keeper and then remove the nut. It should then come off with the bearings (now is the time to re-grease them) and to get the rear bearing out you can use a flat screwdriver in-between the inner race of the bearing and the inner side of the seal, you can reuse this if you're gentle but it's best to replace it. Now that you've got the rotor off the dust shield behind it will be held on by three bolts, once these are out give it a yank and it'll come off. To remove ball joints: First split the ball joint from the knuckle with your method of choice and then undo the 3 bolts holding it in place (5 for the lower with the castor arm bolts). Installation is the reverse of removal. (pulling both ball joints and the tie rod end will free the knuckle) Use the same splitting method to remove tie rod ends and then either mark or count the turns as you wind it out. To remove lower control arm: First Undo the nut holding the lower ball joint to the knuckle and then split it from the knuckle using your method of choice however leave it loosely attached to stop it from moving when you undo the castor arm bolts. Undo the sway bar link (sandwich of 4 bushings) and then undo the castor arm (rod going to the front at an angle) Undo it from the frame side first to avoid it spinning and then you can undo it from the lower control arm via the two bolts going through the ball joint however this isn't necessary if you're not removing the ball joint. Then mark the position of the camber bolt and remove it. Now just wiggle and pry downwards to get it out.

The old girl is back on the road! After a sketchy tyre scrubing drive to the tyre shop I now have two new tyres and an aligned car. Ive got my photos of the rebuild (which was easier than expected!) And will be writing the guide up soon. Ill do the suspension check guide on a different car as this one was tight as a bell even before the ball joints but all in all its been fun being behind the wheel of the old girl again.

Hey fellas. Recently I got myself an 86 XF Falcon Ute with the plan to get her on the road and daily it. However I've got several snags with the biggest being the engine not running. It's an unleaded 250 xflow with est. The closest I can get it to running is when I hold it at wide open throttle and even then it barely gets to idle rpm and spits out of the carby. The motor is in good condition with 130000 KMs on it and running dead on 150 psi on all cylinders. I have rebuilt and then replaced the carby (original one was an 86 DA TD and the replacement is an 86 DA TD not sure if that matters) checked the timing with it being on °6 while cranking and has strong spark on all cylinders. I have run out of ideas and hope someone here can help me with getting it running. To make things worse the ignition locked up after I took the key out and will not move so I have had to pull the switch and use a screwdriver. I have tried wiggling it and moving the steering wheel off the lock with no luck so I'm gonna unbolt the lock for now and see if I can free it up. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance

The passanger side is done! Once I started it was pretty simple with the only hickup being splitting the top ball joint. The replacements seem of good quality with the same range as the originals and after replacing the lower control arm it tracks much better.

Modern parts suck! Had to die grind the inside of the lower control arm bush to get the bolt in

Ive cracked into the suspention and I dont think Im the first one, Its rocking black pedders shocks and the lower ball joint and bushings are still good. Since Im replacing the lower control arm anyway its getting a new bushing aswell as ball joints all round but so far its been okay with only the upper ball joint having play

I got some nos kyb's for the front but I havent decided for the back, probably gonna go with monroe

Well if you wanna do that Id be happy to send my kybs in before I fit them. Im probably gonna do the shock and spring saddle another time as I dont have the spring saddles on hand and I want the old girl asap.

I crawled under there today and found my problem with my lower control arm being munted. All my steering looked a-ok so I wont fuck with it. Ive got a bushing and balljoint set coming this week so when it gets here Ill start that thread and take photos and mesurements of every bolt and bush as I tear through it for future reference but it doesnt look like too bad of a job. Also in regards to shocks I saw in another thread about how the kyb shocks are smaller than factory so Ill be intrested to see how the ones I ordered compare as theyre new old stock.

Well this hasn't been aligned since the accident so I think thats playing a part. Ill check it out when I get home

Well Im back to it and it looks like the suspension work is gonna have to be done sooner rather than later as when I got it back the front two tyres were scrubbed to the wire. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141382679799?fits=Plat_Gen%3AXF|Model%3AFalcon&_skw=xf+falcon+ball+joints&itmmeta=01K2DZES1S24VNSGBBWHSKR18P&hash=item20eb107cf7:g:uGMAAOSwichgieHf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cpw5Mx6GFjC9g9hJWEgNjFFQysu1090bMjEq%2FXM1kLtNJPBRAv85aAHavYcRixU2LaFXHEXwkvMD1D520ra4UaYHTzLE42r4Kti6bA0eynx4eEpON%2F%2BxQL%2B2ipQVGgrS7eFRj2%2FuSX1M03UelRWXoStVQe7Jquh%2Fh8Q2KAfz1Gp544cyRTEV%2B2j%2B0M%2BzyvmQpFX8bIXD8GC%2FOxIiegiVDOjJnUFMa9rq8wj3IJiphNNU5W%2FA7%2BOsrU%2F8pchlQKZR8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_yQu7-TZg This looks to be the best price on ebay so Ill probably go with that

I got one in qld I'm not using

Well my mates been driving it around for a bit while I'm out of state and he's having fun living the old car experience having people materialise with stories of their old xfs, going through fuel at twice the rate of his grandmas corolla and the shonky muffler finally letting go of the tailpipe down the road which gave him some father and son bonding with his (boiler maker) old man. Honestly with how he's talking about the old girl it wouldn't surprise me if he starts looking for one!

ITS BACK BABY! I'm out of state at the moment but the guy finished up today and it looks really shmicko. I still have a full suspension rebuild waiting for me when I get back (which I will be documenting) but I've got a bike and xh which will be taking priority.

Today marks a great occasion, I got a letter from the government that didn't have a fines and penalties header. Crazy it's been 6 months since it was registered! I'm expecting it back in 2 weeks and then I can quit driving the effy around car parks. Ford must have known this was weak as the xg I harvested the bracket off had alot of reinforcement compared to the xf

If cleaning all the connections doesn't fix it you can try adding a resistor in parallel to the pot to send a bit more power through

Recently Ive run into a problem trying to fix the old f100. I have called all the pannel beaters around my area of central queensland and I cant find anyone with a frame puller. The tip of the drivers side is bent but not too horribly and the thing still drives fine so I dont think its a write off (although Im closer to a butcher than I am a pannel beater so what do I know?) but no shops Ive called even have the tools to try and fix it. So here I am again asking for help, if anyone knows of a shop that can fix even just the frame it would help me greatly. The closer the better but Im willing to travel interstate for someone good. In the meantime Ill keep calling around and Ill keep you all posted if I have any luck. (Although it looks mangled, the only bit actually bent is the tip where the bull bar mounts the rest of it is just built like that)

If you pull the starter off you can get to the converter bolts Thanks mate, It took me way too long to figure that out!

3 days ago I learned the meaning of if its flooded forget it and my fg falcon got the engine flooded with water. I pulled the plugs out and got the water out of the cylenders but it wont run now and the engine sounds very lumpy. Im planning on running a compression test but what kinda damage am I gonna be in for. Im already suspecting bent con rods or bent valves but I dont know how to check that apart from just pulling the head and looking at it. Any help would be much appreciated!

Well with one problem down another pops up, I can't find the bloody inspection cover on this thing. Ill try rattling out the bolts and see if its just splined together but Im completely stumped about how to get at the converter bolts.

Well I have finally returned to this now that I need a car for a mate, I got my hands on another xr6 that had been in a wreck for $1000 and am pulling the engine out of it today (if anyone needs fg parts hit me up). The plan is to do the swap for now and then rebuild the original engine to turbo spec and make an xr6 turbo out of it. Ill keep you posted but so far so good! Its not just safe, its 40% safe!

I'm working on a 07 fairmont for a friend that has no tail or dash lights even though all the fuses are ok and it has no relevant dtc's. I haven't gotten a good chance to look at it and inspect the harnesses but I'm hoping someone here has some pointers as to what it could be. Right now Im suspecting a break in the harness for the tail lights but I really have no clue to whats wrong. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer, I only get at this thing half an hour at a time so any and all help is welcome!

Does this part of the frame unbolt? I have access to an XF roller if it's easier to just pull parts off that.

How fucked am I?