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Outback Jack

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Outback Jack last won the day on February 25

Outback Jack had the most liked content!


About Outback Jack

  • Rank
    The REAL Outback Jack.
  • Birthday 03/29/1972

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Southern WA
  • Interests
    Throwing money at cars like it's toilet paper.... lol
    Paying Blowhards good money to shit things on my pride and joy right up.
    Driving the deserted Highways like it's Mad Max.....

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  1. Outback Jack

    Help with dizzy wiring!

    Yeah mate, its the Ford workshop manual for XF. My pleasure.But actually it's a Nissan workshop manual for the XFN Nissan ute which was a rebadged Ford XF. But it's the only available way to get a proper XF workshop manual for Ute's. Most of the stuff for sedans is the same.
  2. Outback Jack

    Help with dizzy wiring!

    Ground is Black/Orange. Pin 1 on Dizzy. Hall effects ground. Supply is Brown. Pin 3 on Dizzy. Hall effects Power Signal is Yellow/Green. Pin 5 on Dizzy. PIP signal from dizzy to ecu. Here's a pic of connector set up..... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  3. Outback Jack

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    I will never change your mind about putting a 1600 in Panko, it's your car and your money, so go for it. I don't know who your 'expert' is but I have pulled a 1300 out of a Mark 1 72 escort 2 door and bolted a 2L Pinto and Cortina gearbox straight in. No mods. I did have to move the radiator forwards but it was minor work. Stock diff, stock brakes, stock shocks. Later when I upgraded the power we decided to move the motor and box back 2 inches to pull the motor more behind the front wheels to improve handling/ weight distribution. Cleared the bubble easy. Guards were rolled and fibreglassed by me and 13's and 235 Eagers went on. That was a budget build. TP-1 pinto cam, polished and ported head running a 350 holley. Stock bottom. Made over 250RWHP on first dyno run. Was like a big go-cart. I did all the work myself except tailshaft and got help from a REAL escort expert when we moved the motor and box back 2". That car ran extractors (2L Capri ones, heated and bent to fit) no problem , cut at the collector and 3" pipe and super turbo muffler. The guy who helped me had a Twin Cam lotus 1600 MK1 and Rallye wide body, and was the go to guy for rally and track racing escorts. He built some beasts. Was a pleasure to know him and he helped me source my 2L head from an ex Wanneroo raceway track car. (Now Barbagellos). My Escort would chase down my mates Rotarys 12A extended port RX3 and 13B bridge ported R100. In the corners I was all over them. It went to Ravenswood drags back in the day and would wind the needle off the speedo. I also owned a 79 2L Escort Panelvan that was no slouch and ran truck valves in the head. So I think I know a lil about Eskies.
  4. Outback Jack

    Au falcon sohc starting issues help needed

    Let us know how you go mate. Might be helpful for others here. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  5. Outback Jack

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    You do what you want Panko. I was doing up Escorts 20-25 years ago. The only Ford escort 1600 that revs harder than a Pinto 2L is the 1600 twin cam, because it's overhead cam. To get around radiator mods, you just move the engine mounts back 2". 2L Pinto is a beautiful motor, very easy to wake up with just a cam and nice carbs. I've been there done that with Eskies. I suggest you read Steve Vizards books on 2L Pintos, will change your life. I understand your not wanting to mod the escort too much, mods for 2L are minimal. Was just trying to save you a lot of time and money. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  6. Outback Jack

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    2L pinto conversion would of been heaps cheaper even with 4speed they are great fun. Can even get twin cam heads for them. As the old saying goes. "No substitute for Cubic Inches". Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  7. Outback Jack

    XG FUEL Sender for sure.

    That bit on Resistance above is spot on. ∆∆∆∆ Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  8. Outback Jack

    XG FUEL Sender for sure.

    Do you have the Ford XG Workshop manual Hendrix?, I have one here if you don't, pretty sure I've seen a section on sender resistance.I'll go back out to Shed and grab it..... There you go mate. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  9. Outback Jack

    Panko's Mk1 Escort (Round 2)

    That's an old English tradition. To leave a coin with something you built.Under my house one of the builders in 1964 had placed an Australian penny on one of the supports. House was built in 1964, coin is 1964. It's supposed to bring good fortune as long as the two things remain together. My queen is hotter.... Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  10. Outback Jack

    V8 conversion into a ed and wiring harnesses

    You might have to wait for someone who knows a bit more about nc/nl fairlanes.Count the pins on the V8 ecu , if its 60 odd, then that's an AU set up. If it's 40 odd its EL. Vote for what? Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  11. Outback Jack

    V8 conversion into a ed and wiring harnesses

    ED and EL are same number of pins for ECU. EL ecu plugs straight in. Should only have to change the wiring in the engine bay if going from 6 to 8. May need a few other things, but that's a start. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  12. Outback Jack

    Head Gasket selection for 4L SOHC.

    Never tried that Ford Man, I use wet and dry so I can start off about 400 grit, then 600 grit , then 800 grit. I probably don't apply enough pressure when sanding, but like to go on the cautious side. I'd still like to use an MLS gasket but the last one cost me $450 and it left a bad taste in my mouth having to throw it because it was toast. I'm not sure I can get the finish it requires. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  13. Outback Jack

    Head Gasket selection for 4L SOHC.

    Yeah my factory gasket has lasted a fair while but I maintain my cars pretty well. Always checking for leaks etc, regular servicing, quality lubricants and filters. Country driving helps. Ford went the MLS route for just that reason. They raised the compression on the AU motor, so it was a logical step. The MLS gaskets are better at sealing 2 different metals like Alloy and Steel. They can handle detonation better and resist 'lift' by the alloy head at operating temps. I would be using one if the block finish was better, but block sanding is not machining and I don't want to create an uneven surface. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
  14. Outback Jack

    Head Gasket selection for 4L SOHC.

    OK, just thought I would put this up for people who were looking at replacing the head gasket on their 4L SOHC motor. There are a few different head gaskets available for the 4L. From left to right are.... (Left) Endurotec Composite head gasket with silicon embossed seals. (Centre) Permaseal Composite head gasket. (Right) Permaseal AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket with Viton coating. The 4L SOHC motor from EA-EL come from the factory with a Composite style head gasket. This has steel fire rings around the bore holes and a steel inner layer sandwiched between 2 composite layers. This can also have silicon sealing rings to help with sealing water jackets , oil galleys etc as with this Endurotec Composite head gasket.... The 4L SOHC motor in the AU came from the factory with a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) style head gasket. This is an aftermarket Permaseal AU style MLS head gasket..... This is usually 3-5 layers of stainless steel with embossing around all the ports and a rubber/viton layer to help with sealing. Now it is common practice for people to replace the older style factory Composite head gaskets on EA-EL with the AU style Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets. This will increase compression on the EA-EL motors as the gasket is thinner and can increase head gasket life and strength for boosted applications. Now if you are rebuilding an engine and have had the head and block faces machined, it's a no brainer. Switch to the AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket. Just make sure you mention to the machinists you want the faces of the head and block to suit, as the MLS head gaskets require a much smoother surface on both faces for correct sealing. Usually 15Ra-50Ra (up to MAX of 70Ra) Blocking the surfaces may not even be enough to get a smooth enough surface. Also try to avoid any sealants, install dry. The coating on the MLS needs to be able to seal by itself and expand and contract with the steel it is bonded to. But what happens if your not able to machine both surfaces? What happens if the head is machined but not the block? What if you have fire ring marks or corrosion marks/low spots? Chances are you won't be able to get the required finish to run an MLS head gasket and get it to seal properly without machining the head and block to suit. MLS gaskets are less forgiving of surface imperfections. This is a block that needed a head gasket replacing. It has been block sanded already, but as you can see, there are still imperfections in the surface. These include Fire ring marks and Corrosion marks. The block is super smooth but has imperfections. But not to fear..... While machining of the block and head would be the ideal thing to do for a perfect finish, it's not always possible. I suggest at LEAST the head should be machined....... And the block then block sanded with fine wet and dry, a lubricant and alternating between 45 degrees one way, then 45 degrees the opposite way with a Large sanding block. Composite head gaskets are a lot more forgiving than Multi Layered Steel head gaskets when it comes to surface finish. They can better seal imperfections in the mating surfaces. They require 30Ra-110Ra, which is a much rougher and wider range. Composite head gaskets with silicon sealing rings can give help with dodgy water port sealing. This doesn't mean you can just slap them in. Good surface preparation is still required. Composite head gaskets can also hold boost up to about 20psi, so don't worry too much about using them on most N/A applications. Better to have a head gasket that seals properly and works than a fancy one that can't because of imperfect mating surfaces. This is what happens to an MLS head gasket if installed on too rough a finish..... That was a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket, less than 500km old. Installed by a 'mechanic'. Also if installing a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket to an EA-EL motor, check the rivet on the rear of the gasket doesn't foul and get stuck between the head and block..... The permaseal MLS-R has rather large rivets, the one on the rear will foul. The permaseal MLS has smaller rivets but I would still check the clearance. Just a couple of things to keep in mind if deciding to go the MLS route. I could install another MLS head gasket but chances are it would fail again due to surface roughness. My Composite head gasket lasted 300,000km from the factory before it failed, so if installed properly it will last. I will leave the MLS until everything is machined properly to suit it on the next rebuild...... Happy Head Gasketing! Outback Jack.
  15. Where you have power to that wiring must be a constant 12V. You want power from a source that only has power when you are running. Switched 12V. So after the ignition and a power source that only powered in the ON position on Ignition barrel. Try power antenna, cigarette lighter, an amp power on from head unit. Just a few. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk