XTREME KARTS XF

Yep, got a couple of sets in the shed from 3 engines i pulled down, 2 were 200 xflows (just for the conrods) I bought new pushrods for my crossy back in 2011 from Crow Cams, just standed replacement ones of course

A V8 will solve the issue of the strut tops not fitting properly LOL (sarcasm) If it was me i'll be shortening that negitive battery lead a little (so it doesnt rub on the rad support and or bonnet) and turning the terminal around abit When i last drove my XD (this winter just gone) it was running abit too cold for my liking (like 140F - 150F) So i tapped up half the grill with a piece of cardboard and 2 inch electrical tape. Looked stupid but it worked and got the temp up to 170F-180F (didnt get any pics)

1/4" UNC you'll need chris, mesure the thickness of the gasket and the cover to determine the length of studs/bolts you'll need

What @Mr Polson and @ando76 said. EA accel pedal will be also fitted. Cable wont be bolted to the firewall like on eariler cars, has a sqaure end where it clips into the pedal base.

A mate of mine used a Ryco filter kit when he serviced the C4 in his XC Monty, no issues with quality. Just remember when you remove the filter, theres a spring and a pressure limit valve and BE SURE NOT TO LOOSE THEM! When you remove the filter the spring will come first then the pressure valve, take your time and be careful as it may spring out on ya! Reverse order for installation

EF and EL are different from each other and XH is different again (from what i've been told) I used an XH 6 cylinder one for my XH V8 S Pac (mine doesnt have the fast ratio steering rack like XR models do) Bolted straight in and no issues. They only go on one way as there's flats on each end for the pinch bolt to pass through. You'll be able to do it in about 5 minutes, change it out from underneath the car (thats how i did mine being a V8, 6 cylinders through the engine bay given the amount of room there is) You'll need a hammer, flat blade screw driver (helps with opening up the clamp ends) 10mm spanner or a 3/8 drive ratchet, socket and breaker bar (use the breaker bar/handle first so you dont destory the ratchet mechanism)

If you pop your head under the dash and take a look where the clutch cable goes on XF to EL/XH (wouldnt suprise me if AU where the same) you'll see that its double skinned and "almost" ready to take the XC-XE clutch cable bracket or the hydro master cylinder Just drill and chop whats required

Yep, as what @Thom said. Also take the cap and rotor off before taking the distributor out

Yep i remember that, old electrical extension leads work quite nicely. Had that window out in no time

Insert Michael Cain voice here

I remember that ESP from AFD a couple years ago, was walking around with Dunolly Dave (pro250) when we wondered over to it. Dave and i spoke to the owner. Very nice car, one of my favorites

Looks like a V8 Escort to me with that stance and those wheels LOL (well to me everything needs a V8 LOL) As for the steering wheel being loose on the spline, i had that issue once when i bought a bosskit for my XD. Sent it back and they swapped it for a SAAS one and no problems.

Flux capacitor?

Bosch GT40 and GT40R coils are for points ignition. They'll cause voltage (9-10 volts or so due to the ballest resister inside the coil) as points only needs 9 to 10 volts to work. The module on the side of the distributor could be on its way out so i would recommend replacing it. Wont need to pull the distributor out to replace it. As for the indicators i can only think that it could be a dodgy earth or the flasher can unit is supect.

+1 what gerg said. Have you tried starting it with full throttle? I know i used to start my clevo when it was on straight gas with full throttle and it fired up every time. If your looking at replacing the converter i have the B2 converter from my XH that i'll be will to part with.