XTREME KARTS XF

Hey fellas Sometime next year i want to convert my XD ute to 5 speed with a V8. Right now with funds the way they are im going to keep it auto (easier and more cost effective) when i do the V8 conversion over the xmas break (hopefully). My question to you guys is, What 5 speed box is best suited for a 351 cleveland?

Yep, got a couple of sets in the shed from 3 engines i pulled down, 2 were 200 xflows (just for the conrods) I bought new pushrods for my crossy back in 2011 from Crow Cams, just standed replacement ones of course

A V8 will solve the issue of the strut tops not fitting properly LOL (sarcasm) If it was me i'll be shortening that negitive battery lead a little (so it doesnt rub on the rad support and or bonnet) and turning the terminal around abit When i last drove my XD (this winter just gone) it was running abit too cold for my liking (like 140F - 150F) So i tapped up half the grill with a piece of cardboard and 2 inch electrical tape. Looked stupid but it worked and got the temp up to 170F-180F (didnt get any pics)

1/4" UNC you'll need chris, mesure the thickness of the gasket and the cover to determine the length of studs/bolts you'll need

What @Mr Polson and @ando76 said. EA accel pedal will be also fitted. Cable wont be bolted to the firewall like on eariler cars, has a sqaure end where it clips into the pedal base.

A mate of mine used a Ryco filter kit when he serviced the C4 in his XC Monty, no issues with quality. Just remember when you remove the filter, theres a spring and a pressure limit valve and BE SURE NOT TO LOOSE THEM! When you remove the filter the spring will come first then the pressure valve, take your time and be careful as it may spring out on ya! Reverse order for installation

EF and EL are different from each other and XH is different again (from what i've been told) I used an XH 6 cylinder one for my XH V8 S Pac (mine doesnt have the fast ratio steering rack like XR models do) Bolted straight in and no issues. They only go on one way as there's flats on each end for the pinch bolt to pass through. You'll be able to do it in about 5 minutes, change it out from underneath the car (thats how i did mine being a V8, 6 cylinders through the engine bay given the amount of room there is) You'll need a hammer, flat blade screw driver (helps with opening up the clamp ends) 10mm spanner or a 3/8 drive ratchet, socket and breaker bar (use the breaker bar/handle first so you dont destory the ratchet mechanism)

If you pop your head under the dash and take a look where the clutch cable goes on XF to EL/XH (wouldnt suprise me if AU where the same) you'll see that its double skinned and "almost" ready to take the XC-XE clutch cable bracket or the hydro master cylinder Just drill and chop whats required

Yep, as what @Thom said. Also take the cap and rotor off before taking the distributor out

Yep i remember that, old electrical extension leads work quite nicely. Had that window out in no time

Insert Michael Cain voice here

I remember that ESP from AFD a couple years ago, was walking around with Dunolly Dave (pro250) when we wondered over to it. Dave and i spoke to the owner. Very nice car, one of my favorites

Looks like a V8 Escort to me with that stance and those wheels LOL (well to me everything needs a V8 LOL) As for the steering wheel being loose on the spline, i had that issue once when i bought a bosskit for my XD. Sent it back and they swapped it for a SAAS one and no problems.

Flux capacitor?

Bosch GT40 and GT40R coils are for points ignition. They'll cause voltage (9-10 volts or so due to the ballest resister inside the coil) as points only needs 9 to 10 volts to work. The module on the side of the distributor could be on its way out so i would recommend replacing it. Wont need to pull the distributor out to replace it. As for the indicators i can only think that it could be a dodgy earth or the flasher can unit is supect.

+1 what gerg said. Have you tried starting it with full throttle? I know i used to start my clevo when it was on straight gas with full throttle and it fired up every time. If your looking at replacing the converter i have the B2 converter from my XH that i'll be will to part with.

Yeah something like that Thats alright, at least one advantage is with adjustable blocks is you can shorten the wheel base or set the lead of the diff one way or the other depending on how you want it to turn in. Pretty much its like an equivalent to "stagger" (one tyre is bigger than the other, again commen in speedway as seen with sprint cars)

After a quick search, it does move the locating pin Link here, 2nd comment http://www.dragstuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=956

It'll be adjusting the location of the centre pin far as i know

So the diff is not square/ 90 degrees to the chassis rails? One way to square up/adjust the "lead" in the rear end is adjustable lowering blocks. If you mesure the wheel base it'll be different from one side of the car to the other AND one side will have "toe in" while the otherside will have "toe out" Adjustable lowering blocks are commen in America in circle track racing and speedway. Something like this

Was meant to also add to my post. M.A.N buses as well have the same setup. No stress mate The ZF 6 speed is an awesome auto but expensive to service and fix Those new transits are FWD i've seen. Your not wrong about them being shitboxes, a mechanic mate of mine at the Ford dealership in Geelong did an engine change when it near new lol

That standed trans cooling setup is very much identical to what Scania and Mercedes Benz buses have with the ZF 9 speed Econo-Life auto boxes. Far as i know they are trouble free. I can only assume that the setup between N/A and Turbo is the same? Maybe ask someone at a Ford dealer maybe?

Hey fella's I just picked up a 351c for my XD. half an engine minus the heads for $500 bucks. Its a Cleveland cast Block with "CF" and D2AE-CA (Cobra Jet block from what i found) The casting date is 7H24. I cant seem to find anything on here or the net to find out what exact date that the block was cast (unless im not looking hard enough LOL) Anyhelp will be greatly appeciated

Was the flywheel machined/resurfaced properly? Correct endfloat in the box for lay gear and mainshaft? Iv never heard of eccessive crank endfloat causng driveline shudder but it could be casuing it. Only way to find out is to put a dial indicator on the nose of the crank and use a prybar between one of the counter weights and a main cap.

Yes it is a "H"