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gerg

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Everything posted by gerg

  1. gerg

    Prefect 302!!!

    Shouldn't imagine it being too different from a Zephyr mechanically. Wheels could do with an upgrade though, even a subtle one Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    OGUN - the clevo

    It will have to be a well-built converter to handle pushing that big lump of iron quickly... Hope he's running a decent cooler Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    XE Tidy up

    Yep, agree with all diagnoses thus far. Excessive gear loading could be from high oil pressure (stuck relief?) But that wear pattern looks like misaligned teeth. This could be from a worn dizzy bush, and/or incorrect OD on the oil pump drive spigot. This puts all of the side loading onto the dizzy bush. Well spotted on the cam lobe Ando, both of my wiped cams had lobes that looked like this that weren't the completely fucked ones, looks like they were on their way too. If not running a specifically high zinc oil, this is your problem. Penrite or Fuchs are both highly regarded on here running in our old clunkers. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    Crossflow Lifter Noise

    I think it's just something you have to live with. I remember my Corty doing the same thing but that engine was otherwise perfect, no blowby, etc. It's annoying but what else can you do? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    Crossflow Lifter Noise

    10-50 seconds is no biggie. It's probably a tiny bit of crap caught under the metering valve inside the lifter. When you've switched it off and it's had a fair chance of landing on a lobe, the pressure from the valvespring pushes back against the lifter and squeezes all the oil out. If you haven't pulled one apart before, keep in mind that the hydraulic part only holds about half a cc, so only a slight leak would drain it in no time. So you go to start it next morning or whatever and the lifter is empty and sits there clacking away. So starting the engine and getting oil up to it and then through it takes said length of time, but from then on the oil pressure can more than keep up with the tiny internal leak. I'd be more worried about it being noisy when hot. That would indicate worn internals, the symptoms of which are made worse by the thinner oil. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Yeah I found gas to be too forgiving, to a point where it was actually difficult to tune. In that I mean that in comparison to petrol, it had a much higher resistance to knocking so you didn't know if you were too advanced or retarded. They both felt almost the same on the road, only that when advanced you could feel as a roughness through the car, like collapsed engine mounts. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it to knock, only run poorer and rougher. I did find that hooking up the vac advance to straight manifold vac (not ported) made it feel awesome at part throttle and had a baby-bum smooth idle, but the time delay it took for the vac advance cannister to retard back when you accelerated caused a bog down from it being momentarily too advanced. I did run a Jaycar programmable ignition, which used a primitive 3-point graph to achieve a ā€¯curve" and while it sort of worked ok, I think the electronics weren't up to the ruggedness that auto electrics need. Never heard of that device you mentioned. Wish I had've. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    Temperature

    I shouldn't imagine much difference, I know the E-series serpentine belts had a similar size crank pulley so the rest are about the same as v-belt too. I noticed in different Ford power steer pumps I had, serpentine and v-belt were the same diameter. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Yeah I found that out with my straight gas Corty. Running a stock Bosch dizzy it liked a good 20 deg initial but total would only take about 28. So it was always a compromise. I would've killed to have an MSD programmable at the time. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    45 degrees on the dizzy is 90 degrees on the crank. So swapping the leads will put it out by the same amount but in the other direction I say pull the dizzy and jump ahead a tooth and see what happens Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Being a tooth out will only alter how much movement you have available to correct it by moving the dizzy body. So theoretically, you could actually get it running fine even if it's a tooth or 2 out provided you have the range of movement available to correct it. Normally the vac advance hits the thermostat housing or a dizzy clip hits something else on the manifold. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    1976 F100 tow pig aka MATER

    Ok Sparky Dave seems to be onto it, I'll just give my take on pretty much the same thing. The indexing of the rotor tip to the pulse wheel must allow for vacuum advance and also any electronic delay caused by the module, etc. So regardless of the working range of the vac advance, the rotor tip is always close to the terminal whether advanced or retarded. Mechanical advance has no bearing on rotor phasing because the whole lot moves (pulse wheel and rotor). You say the vac advance is stuffed. You need to make sure that it's not floating around doing its own thing. The engine should idle the same with it connected or not, so if it's stuck in one spot, it won't make a difference anyway. It only operates at part throttle, say 15-25% but shouldn't at idle if connected properly. Silly question, are you clamping the right lead? #3 is next to it in the firing order and easy to mix up. That would show up as retarded on the timing marks. If you have the trigger wiring on the module in reverse polarity, it will fire retarded as the module will be looking for a particular part of the phase to trigger and if the polarity is wrong, it will be triggering on the down ramp instead of up, or vice-versa (opposite to what it wants to see). I did this on my MSD and the engine ran like a busted fart (once it stopped backfiring) until I corrected the two trigger wires. Then vroom... Problem solved. Does advancing it while running make any difference? Can you hear any arcing inside the dizzy? You shouldn't be able to hear it over the engine. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    EL GHIA TICKFORD 12/97

    I'm looking for some sticky shit like that, cheers for the heads-up Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    EGO: my XD/F ute

    Vans and wagons I can confirm have odd aero properties that suck exhaust back through the car. I have driven short distances loaded with gyprock sheets and the tailgate propped open only slightly, and nearly suffocated from the fumes. Exhaust sounded sweet though, so totally worth it. Utes have very different aero characteristics, with a tumbling effect created as the tailgate grabs some of the air, directs a stream forwards along the bed to the cabin and then turns upwards just behind it. This creates a backwards-rotating pocket of air that the slipstream flows around, helping with aerodynamics. I've seen this in my own Courier with leaves and rubbish and shit accumulating in the dead spot behind the cabin, which once there never moves. So I reckon an opening rear window on a ute would be fine. I reckon the tailgate serves as an air dam stopping the fumes from coming up into the tray. They did an experiment on MythBusters with 2 identical trucks, one tailgate up, the other down. They noticed that the tailgate being up did not affect the fuel consumption at all, and in fact may have slightly helped it at certain speeds. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    Which aftermarket block?

    Yeah sounds good being clevo and all that, very appealing but for similar money, you get US cast & machined iron, a proven design, 4.125" bore option and I would say better support if something wasn't right. I too was excited when I heard about Arrow but then when the word "China" popped up, suddenly I no longer had a hard-on over it. I dunno, I'm probably talking shit but that's the way I'd go. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    Which aftermarket block?

    Early pre-production Arrows had air pockets and inclusions in the castings, haven't seen much more since then. I don't know why it's cheaper to go Chinese when we have so much iron here. We used to be the smart country (apparently), but nowdays nobody can be bothered. They just shut down the foundry for Ford, why not keep it open for contracting small jobs like this? With all that's already invested, it would pay to go with a decent block. Dart has the experience and reputation, and bang-for-buck I think can't be beaten. Available in 4.125 bores for easy cubes, work better with big valve heads. More aftermarket gear available for the bottom end, serpentine conversions are easier with reverse rotation water pumps, general factory accessory mounts, etc. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  16. gerg

    Cooling System Parts Questions

    It is purrly a visual inspection, so it's just gotta be there. No functional tests are done. But seriously, if you want maximum efficiency, you're better off having it there and working. The idea is that at part throttle, the engine ingesting something inert like exhaust gas actually works as an expansion medium (sort of like water injection) but most importantly, it reduces throttling losses because the engine is working less against a vacuum if some of that intake charge is displaced by said inert gas. This is one major reason why diesels are so much more efficient. Many do not have a throttle, and ingest a maximum amount of air per cycle. This minimises pumping losses. Your Dr Karl useless information session..... You're welcome! Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  17. gerg

    250 Crossflow build

    I wish there were more 221 cranks around. That would make for a nice square engine. Ford Argentina made them for much longer and were the basis for lots of 6 full race engines. Here, they were rare to start with (only XW had them) and a lot would have gone to scrap. The rest went into red motor 236 strokers with the Holden flywheel flange welded to the cut-off Ford rear journal. But Fords are shit remember? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  18. gerg

    MENTAL XD - The build.

    It's a shame you made it good for someone else. I hope they appreciated it in that condition Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  19. gerg

    Cooling System Parts Questions

    Yeah that's part of it I suppose, but nothing stopped people from doing that before with the use of chokes, etc but as emissions requirements became more strict, and more anti-pollution devices were added, things became more complicated. For instance, use of EGR when the engine was cold would make it run rough. The PVS waits until the engine is warm before allowing EGR. Another PVS function is used at higher temperatures, ie: in the days before idle-up solenoids and viscous coupling fans, they used a particular PVS to allow vac advance at idle, to spin the engine (and fan) faster to allow additional cooling, particularly with AC engaged. All this crap is redundant now, with electronic throttles, variable valve timing, etc. it's all managed through the computer. Makes you wonder how much cheaper it was to run a carby vs EFI, particularly in the later days as more and more of this pollution gear was added. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  20. gerg

    MENTAL XD - The build.

    A bit of a tip we learned at TAFE: to fill small areas with minimal mess and fuss, they used straight, unthinned spray putty on a small disposable paint roller. This allowed a controlled application without needing all the other shit like masking, thinning, washing up guns, all the waste associated with it too. Only drawbacks are shrinkage and drying time. You'd probably want to wait a good day or so before sanding too, weather permitting. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  21. gerg

    EL GHIA TICKFORD 12/97

    Did you tell him/her that temperature is temperature? The gauge in my EL never reaches even halfway except in summer with the AC blasting. Falcons in this shape were bottom-feeders, with plenty of intake area below the bumper. Even my XE has a tiny grille of only 2 slats, hardly big enough to make a difference. But cooling is not an issue. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  22. gerg

    Cooling System Parts Questions

    It's a ported vacuum switch (PVS), often used to delay certain functions until the engine reaches operating temperature. These can include vacuum advance, cannister purge, EGR, lots of others... Without knowing where the hoses went to/from it, there is no way of knowing unless you have a workshop manual and look in the emission control section. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  23. gerg

    MENTAL XD - The build.

    Maybe you could go the other way and make the fasteners a bit of a feature, using say capscrew heads and washers or dome head torx screws. Satin black of course [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  24. Ok so they add STP and some cam break-in shit.... And stop short on the detergent.... Got it [emoji12] Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  25. gerg

    MENTAL XD - The build.

    Looks European so should be decent. Some local manufacturers still use talc as a solid whereas the more modern types use plastic-based solids, easy to sand and are non-porous. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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