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gerg

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Everything posted by gerg

  1. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Got 12 scorpions, need another 4. You can buy individual ones from Summit. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I can land a retro kit from Summit for a bit over a grand. Big slog but I'm sick of worrying about flat tappets, special oil, even the way I drive it. Full roller valvetrain means I can use whatever oil I want and forget about this crap Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Yep, failed after only 6 weeks of driving. Did everything right, still fucked. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Coils are supposed to be good for at least 0.650, but rocker ratio does get me thinking.... 1.73:1 leverage on a 280 open, 115 seat pressure might be too much for a flat tappet. Still, other mechanics I've talked to at work are also scratching their heads over this one. Particularly since this is the 3rd cam it's eaten in about 75,000 ks. First 2 rounded different lobes each time, so you can rule out a wonky lifter bore. Fucked if I know. As soon as the weather allows, I'll rip into it Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    As a general rule, yes they are capable of going higher, especially for a particular duration because they can rapidly open and close the valves with steeper ramps when compared to flat tappets. This is why most people go to a roller. But I have a different reason. I have just wiped another cam, for no apparent reason except for driving the fucking thing. I love the current grind in it, very well suited to the driving I do. It's a baby at 208/208, 110 lobe and 484 lift. The closest roller I can find is 205/205 110, 510 lift. I'll take some snaps as I pull the cunt apart and see what the fuck is going on, put it up on my gergwagon thread. As for wheezor lifter bores, I believe the casting changed when they went factory roller, which was merely a raised boss around each lifter bore to support the dog bones and prevent the lifter body smacking on them as they ride up and down on the flats machined into them. Retro ones with the reduced base circle sit the lifter further down so that this isn't a problem. Maybe the tie-bar type lifters are what they mean? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Hey cheers bear, yeah i read that one too, but dont know if they were using the reduced base circle cam, also if there is a certain amount of lift where this occurs ie: if using a cam below a particular lift spec, this might not be a problem. I want a roller version of the same cam i have now. I'm done with flat tappets. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Looking at retro conversion (reduced base circle) roller cams. Can someone elaborate on if/why the factory 302W roller lifters are not compatible with the Cleveland block? The actual retro lifters are near triple the price but I can't see where the difference lies. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    Crossflow Problem (breaks down at 3500 rpm)

    If it's only triggering a relay, then it will be as good as 12 volts. Being a resistance wire in series with another resistor (the coil), the voltage drop at the coil + is dependent on the resistance of the coil itself. A resistor resists current, not voltage. It results in going from about 8 amps of draw from a coil to about 20mA of a relay. This gives the resistance wire bugger all current to resist, so voltage barely changes. You might be onto something there... Not sure how these calibration loops work as I run a programmable MSD but if it thinks it's a 4 cyl, and you have a 6000 limit, that makes it a 4500 limit on a 6. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    Crossflow Problem (breaks down at 3500 rpm)

    Mate this one's a deusie... As I was reading each thing you tried, I would think of another thing and you'd already tried that too. You say "breaking down" as if it feels like coil breakdown. Maybe instead of continuing throwing nice expensive parts at it, you could just book a bit of dyno time with someone who knows carbies. You can load up the engine and watch what the ignition is doing on an oscilloscope and/or timing light, also AFRs will tell how the carby is tuned. Often, carby problems are ignition problems. Being a mechanic myself, am no fan of paying someone else to spin spanners on my old jalopies, but sometimes you just need someone with the right gear to get to the heart of the matter. How have you got the MSD hooked up? They want a direct supply to and from the battery, not from your key switch. At peak output, they do draw quite a few amps. Plug gaps aren't anywhere near as fussy with MSD. It generally fires them no matter how fouled or worn they are, so you can pretty much rule that issue out. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    T5 GEARBOX NOISE

    Lol... Nope, not much to add except pilot race in the back of the crank could be buggered. This should always be done with a new clutch. Here are some pointers though: A dud throwout will make a noise no matter what gear it's in. It can also make a ticking noise with the foot off the clutch. As for being rpm-sensitive, all I can suggest is that maybe the throwout has lost its grease and is dry chattering. Pocket bearing will make a noise in all gears except 4th, with 3rd being the loudest. However it will quiet down when you feather the throttle or change gears. It seems like the noise is dependent on a difference in engine/input shaft rpm. Without hearing/seeing it for ourselves, it's very hard to diagnose. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    351 ?

    If they were a special build, it's possible that they came out of Brisbane plant. The chassis number will start with JH instead of JG if that's the case Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    351 ?

    If it's matching numbers, look at the build plate. Engine codes are different for each one. They would have either "P" for a 302 or "T" for a 351 Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    351 ?

    From one of the spiders living in it? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. I agree with all advice so far. I will add that not all single rails were created equal. If running a 250, you're best off with the 3.06 1st ratio set. This is well matched to the midrange torque of the 250, whereas the 3.48 ratio box might have you off the boil often. A good Cortina box might be hard to come by, but what you can do is try and find a stuffed one and transfer the extension housing, shifter and shift rail over to a good Falcon box with the ideal ratios. The shifter might end up a bit far away from you in order to clear the seat but you can easily modify the stick to sit back over closer to you, sort of like an F100 setup, but not so goofy. The clutch should be the same but I don't know if you can get a 3 speed bellhousing to mate to a single rail. Maybe if the 3 speed bellhousing mount face has enough meat on it to line up with the holes in the single rail, then it's a simple drill-and-tap for (I think) 7/16" UNC. I did a similar thing with a toploader bell and a T5, as my single rail bell didn't have sufficient mounting face to line up with the lower 2 gearbox bolts. A hydraulic SR bell will be hard to come by. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. That's a weird place to crack, I would expect it to go on the front side of the shock tower (ie top arm pulling backwards on potholes, etc) but maybe the front wheel was hit in reverse? Anyway, XD onwards were built from thin gauge high-tensile steel so are a bit harder to weld. You will first need to bare metal the entire area a few inches above and below so you can use patches wherever you might need them. You can always repaint later. Weld up the cracks by doing very short stitches or tacks, I like to start at one end, then tack the middle, then the end. Then I go halfway between those, then again halfway between those and keep going until all gaps are filled. This keeps the heat spread out and stops the metal from stressing and buckling as it would if you just ran a solid bead the whole length. Others have their techniques, I'm sure 2Redrovers has his methods too. Then, grind down the weld until it's flat and cut a patch to go under that upper arm bolt/nut and that also overlaps the bit you already welded. You could extend the patch upwards past the other crack (after welding also) and perhaps punch a couple of holes in it to spot weld for extra strength, on top of stitching around each edge. If you don't want to patch it, it may well crack again right next to your weld where the heat has stressed the metal. I would do this with the gasless, as there is little advantage to using Tig here, given the difficult access you may well have and the reduced need for a pretty weld. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  16. gerg

    Best wheel setup to suit 85 XF s-pack?

    If you're going for standard S-pack steelies, they are out there but to be honest, they are getting expensive and 14" rubber is also getting hard to find without going with premium ones like BF Goodrich, which would set you back nearly a grand for a set. Any Falcon/Fairlane rim will bolt on up till and including EL/NL models, and these later ones are more often available in 15", a much more common size. If looking aftermarket, any wheel with a 5x114.3mm PCD, offset between +10 and -6mm and 71mm centre bore would suit. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  17. gerg

    302c fueling issue??

    There's a saying in old hot rod circles: "carb issues are often ignition issues" A hole in the secondary diaphragm will simply stop them from opening. Shouldn't cause popping and farting. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  18. gerg

    302c fueling issue??

    Firstly, check that the secondary bowl is sitting at the right float level. If you have externally adjustable floats, do the usual sight plug procedure, if no sight plugs, adjust the level up until you see fuel dribbling out of the boosters and wind it back down a full turn. This is a good ballpark method to start from, then you fine-tune from there. You may have to drop it more if you get flooding under brakes. Next, check what secondary spring you are running. The standard one is purple from memory. On a warm 302, it shouldn't be opening before around 3800 rpm, and if it does, the spring is too weak, which causes bogging due to insufficient airspeed through the venturi. Install the next stiffer one and run it again. If running a secondary plate (not a block with jets and power valve) there's not much you can adjust for jetting except drill out the metering orifices in the bottom. You really shouldn't have to do this if everything else is working right on the carby. Make sure your secondary float has free movement up and down and that the needle moves with it and the seat housing isn't blocked. You'll need to pull the secondary bowl off to check this. I very recently did up a mate's 600 vac and when I pulled it down, found a whole bunch of things wrong. Secondary throttles were closed too much, secondary linkage not pushing them open slightly at WOT, but most importantly, this carby had sat with bad fuel for a long time and the secondary booster feeds were blocked. Had to scrape them out with a drill bit. Also, a secondary air bleed was blocked, which would cause flooding once that circuit came on. Another thing, one side of the squirter was blocked. This carby looked quite shiny and new from the outside, but things were pretty ugly inside. I'd start from there rather than automatically blame the fuel pump, which rarely give trouble. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  19. gerg

    18" Rims on XF

    Very jealous mate, we have one of the worst nanny states in the world here. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  20. gerg

    18" Rims on XF

    Assuming you're running 275 rubber, that should fit fine. I'm running 7" snowies with 225/60R15 rubber and they clear both the leaf and the lip by miles. That rim width wont be legal in some states though. If you want to stay legal, 8" with +0 offset would be a happier choice. That's what i'm going with when the time comes, but on 16" rims. Any more offset would make the track technically illegal by 6mm. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  21. gerg

    thermoquad on edelbrock manifold

    Yeah I blocked mine off ages ago when running a full metal Holley due to severe vapour lock. Now that I'm running a Street Demon with the composite body (just like a thermoquad) it's hard to get a lean enough tune for economy but still have it driveable when it's cool outside. As it is, it takes a good 15 minutes for the stumble to clear up. What I would suggest is block one side of the crossover to give a minimal circulation of hot gas. . Another trick could be to partially block it by using a bit of thin stainless steel but drill it out with say an 8mm drill to restrict the flow. The crossover heat on mine got so savage that the engine paint was starting to burn away around the crossover ports. Remember these engines were designed for North America, which gets brutally cold in parts compared to here, so we don't need anywhere near as much manifold heating as they do. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  22. gerg

    thermoquad on edelbrock manifold

    Also nice to see a thermoquad in good condition. Great carbies when running right. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  23. gerg

    thermoquad on edelbrock manifold

    Looks good, you will have to drill out the bolt holes to take Allen key capscrews though. That's unless that manifold has a dual bolt pattern for either spread or square bore, then you just use long studs that go straight through. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  24. gerg

    Xe hydraulic conversion

    Let's see... I did this exact conversion and you need: Hydraulic pedal box (or swap pedal shafts) Hydraulic pedal Master cylinder Clutch line Slave cylinder Hydraulic fork What isn't working for you? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  25. gerg

    Air co belt

    I would say negligible, only what it takes to turn the bearing on the pulley plus whatever friction the belt and pulleys would incur. Maybe half a horsepower? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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