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Everything posted by gerg

  1. gerg

    HEADLIGHT MANUFACTURING - How they're made

    My shiny mylar taped ones are holding up ok, nobody's even noticed. They are much better than what was there before anyway Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. Depends on what it's behind, what variant of T5 it is and what kind of driving. Garden variety 6-cyl one won't last long behind a healthy 351, but a T5Z (driven reaaonably) probably would. The T5Z needs either a spacer/adaptor to go between the bellhousing and the box (input shaft is 16mm longer) or a completely new bellhousing to suit. Even then, you still have issues with gearbox mount alignment, shifter location and tailshaft length. You could get the input shaft turned down to the old length to compensate. I have a 6-cyl T5 behind my 302 on a modded toploader bellhousing. Wasn't too hard, but there are CRS bellhousings to adapt one to the other without dramas. For $3500, you could get a T5 stuffed with bulletproof internals and some nice ratios to go with it. $3500 is a rip-off to "rebuild" a 4 speed. They are just milking the resto market for all it's worth. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. gerg

    what is the v8 like on fuel compared to the 6 cyl

    General rule... Add about 2 litres/100km for an EFI V8 no matter what the driving. Carby cars... My 4 speed wagon got about 12L/100km with the 4.1 Weber, now with the little Clevo, it gets mid teens (seems to vary a lot). Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    What are this?

    Good rule of thumb I like to use is take the target HP and double it for the required carb CFM. Realistically, a healthy crossy would be in the 200-220 HP range without major work and lots of know-how. With this in mind, a carby between 400 and 500 would suit best. There is a 4-barrel Edelbrock 500 that might fit the bill: https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-series-500-cfm-carburetor-with-electric-choke-in-satin-non-egr-1403.html Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    What are this?

    465 is a perfect match for a warm 250, don't go off CFM rating for the 2-barrel carbs, they're not rated on the same scale as 4-barrels. A 350 2-barrel is really about 280 and the 500 is about 360. A 650 DP like Dean said is a bit big for that engine, might require a bit of work to get it running right. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. gerg

    One wire alternator

    I think the point of separate earthing is to avoid the reliance on a good electrical contact between the mount boss, the bolt, any spacers in between, and the block which all or at least some may be painted or rusty and not conduct whatever amps the alternator is capable of. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    Cutting the water pump on 250 crossflow

    No you won't affect anything inside the pump, but if only for the risk of butchering things, access with a grinder/cutoff disc might require removing the belt and pulley. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. gerg

    XD steering & suspension

    If you use urethane bushes, make them greaseable so they don't chop out. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. gerg

    XD steering & suspension

    Rag joints need to be riveted with new pins intalled. Those parts alone are upwards of $150, but I cut n shut one off a manual onto my power steer coupling. The pins are only there as a safety measure if the rag joint failed (unlikely) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    XD steering & suspension

    All good advice gents, I'll add to that with how to check the various joints and pivots for wear. First you have to establish that there is in fact play in the system, and that you're not just feeling sidewall flex from the old high profile tyres. Open the window and shake the steering left to right while watching the rim on the driver's side. You can see that the rim will move but the tyre tread lags behind. This will contribute to a sloppy feel. I like to go as high in pressure as the tyres will handle (often written on the load rating on the tyre). This will increase road feel. Start by putting the car on ramps or blocks. The wheels should be at ride height. It's really a 2-person job, so get your Mrs or one of your kids to wiggle the steering left and right to take up the slack in the system. They'll need to be prepared to do this for as long as it takes to check all the joints that affect steering slop. All joints will need to be checked using this wiggle method. Start inspecting at the box. Watch the input from the rag joint and feel the output from the Pitman Arm. If there is a delay in movement as the coupling turns left to right, there is play in the box. Adjust as described above. Also check the mounting bolts for tightness. Pitman Arm joint wear will show as movement in the arm before the drag link moves. Detect by placing fingers on both components and feel for excessive movement. Replace Pitman Arm if needed. Inner and outer tie rod joints will be the same, detect play by using same method as above. Outer rod ends often wear more than inners due to their proximity to debris and water thrown up by the wheel and the range of movement. Bottom ball joint may also present as worn with side-to-side steering movement but it is better to lever back and forth with a large screwdriver to check. Wear in this joint will often show as vagueness while changing direction. Top joint won't show any symptoms as it is always under load. The only truly correct way of detecting wear in this one is to take the load off the rest of the suspension while containing the load in the spring, either with a spring compressor or a block between the chassis and the top arm. This unloads the top joint so you can check it at correct ride height (where it will wear the most). If doing the lower joints, you would replace the uppers as a matter of course. Radius rod bushes can also contribute to sloppiness but only while on the move and detectable with movement in the back and forth direction. Wear in these bushes will give excessive squirm under brakes due to the loss of castor effect at the wheels, as well as vagueness in steering response. Lastly, a simple one but often overlooked is wheel bearings. Jack up and check for play, adjust if needed. If the grease is really dirty, they'll likely need replacing. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. gerg

    Clutch Fan

    The nut on the shaft part (before the fins) is where it undoes from. You need to hold the pulley from turning though. I just push down hard on the belt to increase tension and stop the pulley from turning. You can also try and wedge a big screwdriver between the bolt heads and the nut but clearance is rather tight. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    Brake Lights

    It will have an adjustment to make. You unscrew the old one and screw in the new till it stops, come out maybe half or full turn or so, plug it in and check adjustment. You have to unplug it if you need more than a couple of turns. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    Brake Lights

    Sounds like brake light switch down on the pedal. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. Now don't quote me on that being the case 100% of the time, as that adaptor I linked to is for a GM or Viper pattern. The Ford one is possibly different again. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. Unfortunately they won't. They have a totally different method of locating to the bellhousing than your traditional toploader or BW box. The older ones use the outside of the bearing retainer to fit snugly inside the back of the bell to keep it all concentric. The T56 uses the bolts and probably dowels to locate. The older boxes also have the sleeve built in to the snout that the throwout bearing runs on. The T56 uses a concentric slave. T56s have a very wide mounting flange that flares out from the casing that appears to be nearly as wide as the mouth of the bellhousing itself. It definitely looks too wide for any T5 mountings I've seen. There are adaptors available, but it would be expensive landing one here https://www.tickperformance.com/t56-mounting-adapter-plate-swap-applications/ Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  16. gerg

    T5 oil (710)

    I did this exact thing, but along with a self-made short shifter. Eliminating the rubber isolator gets rid of a lot of slop in the gear shift, especially when that rubber gets a bit squishy with age. Swapping sides on the stick brings it a tad closer to the driver which is handy in a car so wide. You can bring it even closer by spacing it out with a few washers between the shifter and the stick. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  17. gerg


    XG diff ratio should be 3.27:1, centre should be open 4 pinion 28 spline (not LSD). Flange can be swapped from your old diff to reuse the old tailshaft. Tailshaft should be same length between the two, wagons are the same length as well. But as Chestnut says, output shaft spline count might be different on the top loader. I have done the 5 speed conversion on my 302C, using a toploader bellhousing drilled and tapped to suit the T5 flange pattern. The outside of the front bearing retainer (snout) has to be machined about 0.060" to fit the hole in the single rail/toploader bellhousing. Input shaft length and clutch spline count is the same. The 6 cyl ratios might be a bit short for your clevo, well that's what I found with mine using the EA box with 3.50 first. Also I assume you're running a 351, therefore a T5 would be marginal in strength behind that sort of torque, especially the wide ratio 6 cyl version. If it breaks, it will be on 3rd gear. Best T5 behind a V8 is the T5Z, which is a whole new can of worms. You can get adaptor bellhousings to mate the two, they go for around $700 from CRS (haven't checked lately). I assume that you have all the hydraulics there to suit the V8 setup already? Keeping the toploader would be the easiest way to swap, handbrake cable would go with the diff, tailshaft also if you want to go that way but maybe the output yokes can be swapped to suit the toploader? I can confirm that 3.27 on the highway has the engine at about 2800 in 4th, a bit much for a V8 cruiser. 5th gear is more manageable at about 2200. I recently went to 3.08 to gear it up a bit. Should have me sitting below 2000 with some tall tyres. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  18. Disc brake and LSD as far as I know. I converted mine for this reason (was a mandatory option) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  19. gerg


    Yeah the AOD sounds like a nice idea on paper with a lockup clutch and overdrive, but they have a screwy shift sequence that locks out 2nd gear or something silly like that until you shift back down into 1st from 3rd. The BTR is a solid lump, 1st gear is pretty tall though. I reckon going behind a clevo would need some more line pressure and firming up the shifts, etc. Also lockup clutch pressure if you can possibly up that as well. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  20. It's been too long so all that info isn't fresh in my head. It can be done, it's just the issue of pinion spacing in relation to the crown. There is a thick shim to do this that goes between the inner pinion bearing race and the back of the gear. I think it's something like 120 thou. I'll explain why: the difference between 75 and 78 housings is in the pinion depth, and is determined by how deep the step for the inner pinion bearing is machined. 75 has the pinion deeper into the crown, as the 75 crown wheel is smaller in diameter and the pinion needs to go deeper into mesh to meet it. Putting that shim in behind the pinion puts it into proper mesh with the crown and corrects the difference between housings. There is an instance where there is a different carrier used, on the 2.77 diffs they had a greater offset on the crown wheel to allow for larger diameter pinion gear. This centre is only compatible with those gears. In some rare instances, they've used that weirdo carrier with 2.92 gears and have a big shim under the crown wheel to space it back across to where it normally would be. All other centres should swap. But 25 spline centres won't work with 28 spline axles. The holes are too small for the axle diameter. Be sure to get the correct carrier bearings, as there are differences. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  21. The housing itself will tell you what series it is, unless it's a weirdo hybrid one (ie 75 series gears in 78 housing) Should be 0575 series with those ratios. You will find that on your tag, stamped on the centre somewhere and also on the gears themselves. Like this: Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  22. Should be 2.78 from memory, could also depend on if it's a 4.9 or 5.8. Edit: 4.9 got the 2.92 either manual or auto, 5.8 manual was 2.92, auto was 2.77 and some highway patrol cars got a very rare 2.53. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  23. gerg

    Replacement radiator for XF

    eBay Chinesium ones generally get a pretty good rap, just need to earth them and use lots of green shit in your water Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  24. VicRoads has adopted the national code VSB14, which has certain displacement/power-to-weight limits for both owner certified and engineered vehicles. Scroll down to the LA (engines) section and download the pdf. https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  25. gerg

    King spring Low vs Super low

    If you want about 1/2" extra lowering along with a more sports-oriented geometry, consider the Shelby drop. There's a couple of threads on here (including mine) if you feel like digging. The net is also full of forums on how to do it. Searching might even get you to one of our threads (does for me). The job can be done in an arvo if you're already doing the springs and have everything prepared. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk