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gerg

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Everything posted by gerg

  1. Yeah it fucken tickles, that's for sure. Both boxes I've stripped already had roller tops on them so sorry no conversion this time. I do believe that the 2 types of bearing housings are different but the bushed one can be converted by machining it out very slightly to take the Torrington race. There is a thread on here from 5 years or so ago, which goes through that process. One of the boxes is too far gone with the internals, so I pulled down the sector shaft and found some interesting things that I didn't know about before. I'll document them as soon as I can get good pics. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  2. Ok after putting up with power steer fluid on my driveway (and on the parking spot at work) for too long, I finally ripped the box out and decided to put a seal kit through it. I haven't done one before, so this will be a tutorial on the fly (I will be learning as we go). V8s are a right pain to do, you have to pull out the starter then either jack up the engine (what I did) or pull the RH extractors off to physically remove the box. The Pitman Arm was buggered (sloppy ball joint), so I needed heat and a puller to remove it. Initially, I wanted to save the arm and try and gently heat it with a heat gun to get it to pop. Put some force on it with a hydraulic puller and that launched itself into the wall behind my bench. So I leant down to pick it up, and didn't watch where my hand was going. It landed straight on the tip of the heat gun I was just using. This is the result: This is 3 days later. So first casualty and all i've done is strip the one box plus a spare. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  3. If you put the lines the wrong way (if that's even possible), I think something would blow out or the rack just wouldn't work. If you pop the rod ends off the steering arms and work the rack left and right, you could find out if that resistance is in the rack or if something else is wrong (bent ball joint or suspension part) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  4. gerg

    12v ignition source Help please

    In that case, you would just use your old coil + supply as the MSD has its own coil +/- leads completely independent of the existing wiring. The ignition + into the MSD is only a trigger to turn it on, it gets its actual power from the fused battery supply. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  5. gerg

    XF left indicator playing up

    Ok all of the usual culprits are sussed out, so time to go looking at connectors in the loom, then the loom itself. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  6. I think the extra cubes alone will get it over the line much quicker, despite the big lump of extra weight being lugged along. If the stall speed is well matched to the power band, and the rear gears are right, this will easily be a 13 second car. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  7. gerg

    12v ignition source Help please

    I don't see any problem teeing off the coil + if the load is negligible. If there is more than a couple of amps load, you need to put a relay in. A relay only draws about 20mA so makes bugger-all difference. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  8. I would fill it by as much as it will take without making a mess. You will only have to fill up more through the dipstick anyway to allow for the converter filling up. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  9. Re: someone claiming they lost a second on the quarter... If true, it was either a pretty sick gearbox or the C6 has a huge amount of internal drag compared to a C4. Otherwise, it's a wild exaggeration in my opinion. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  10. gerg

    84DA CROSSFLOW BUILD

    Fuck they really stuffed that in there Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  11. Could it be that the tie rods and steering arms (spindles) are what make them different, not the racks themselves? The difference in colour of the bushes might just signify different materials or could have been replaced at some stage with aftermarket ones (these are cars over 20 years old now). The steering being 90 deg out may be from how the coupling is attached at the end and where the master spline sits. Could you pull the pinion out and re-time it to the rack suit the earlier setup, then any further correction done through re-mounting the steering wheel? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  12. gerg

    250 Crossflow build

    Yeah that's the ticket, exactly what I was describing. Just with the injector sandwich part and the adaptor plate, you'll have to watch shock tower clearance. Other than that, looks the goods mate Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  13. gerg

    250 Crossflow build

    Your crossy makes around 150 HP stock, so a target of 200-250 on about 10 psi is what a stock bottom end is more than adequate to handle. Mild boost won't kill conrods, rpm and/or big boost does. Rpm rips them apart, big boost bends them. Your stock valvetrain will suffice, provided you keep the cam specs mild. That means a working limit of 0.500" lift. Upgraded valvesprings will be the exception. The key to making boost on standard compression is fuel and ignition management. This is where investing in a good aftermarket system will pay off. Sure there are people who've managed to use OEM computers, etc. but it will always be a compromise. Infinite tuneability will overcome any design shortcomings when adding boost. On a crossy, the EFI manifold is not ideal for turbo applications, for a few reasons: The middle 2 cylinders get first shot at the airflow. The throttle body draws air from the hot side of the engine. If using a right-to-left intercooler, the air outlet is on the opposite side of the engine to where the throttle is pointing. And lastly, the manifold itself may become a performance restriction at a certain power level. So it's best to seek an alternative, and the most cost-effective and simple one is by using an EA-ED log manifold adapted to the crossy inlet flange. It puts the throttle to the front and down, simplifying the installation and minimising turbo piping and keeping everything away from heat. I can't make any suggestions for your turbo selection as that's not my area of expertise. Exhaust manifold can be a simple log type made from cast bends. No need to go all out with tuned runners on a mild setup. KISS principle wins here Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  14. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Lol... Watch out for the 5 finger exploding oil pump trick Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  15. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Nah 58cc, 60 down the hole, 28cc dish, 40 head gasket. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  16. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    I ran those specs through the Wallace Racing one, it came in at 8.68:1. Are you sure the piston has that much dish? Edit: just ran the Summit one, it came in at 8.73:1 It assumes that your head gasket is the same as the bore, which it never is. The Wallace Racing one lets you input the gasket diameter to allow for the extra volume there. I put in 4.100" as that's closer to what they are. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  17. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    512 is fine, 12 thou is only about a quarter of a mm. What are the other specs for it? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  18. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    No that site is for Pontiacs, the sizes on the left are to autofill the specs for various Pontiac engines. You need to manually enter bore, stroke and cc, etc to get the right figure for a 400 Ford. It should come in at around 402 cubes if entered right (stock bore) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  19. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Here use this calculator, it came up with 11.43:1 comp using 8cc dish, 0.020 down the hole, 0.041" gasket and 58cc head http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  20. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Did you cc the pistons and get the machinist to measure piston deck clearance? That will tell you if you can use those closed chambers Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  21. gerg

    Cleveland oil supply mod

    Anything American will be NPT. Anything British or older Jap stuff will be BSPT. There is a 1 TPI difference between the two on most sizes. You can tighten the shit out of it to seal but will mash the threads. Maybe the fitting you pulled out was BSP? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  22. gerg

    Cleveland oil supply mod

    Yep, same as the oil sender. Are you doing the bypass tube? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  23. gerg

    Steering trim

    I would say not, as the XF had the adjustable up/down bit, the earlier column shroud probably won't clear this mechanism. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  24. gerg

    CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK

    Navy seal... Lol Likes a bit of the rear admiral Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
  25. gerg

    EST or Electronic distributor

    Sorry now I'm lost... If you're using a carby then no you don't need any of the engine management bits. Only the stuff that makes the ignition work. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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