Lord_fahrquhar

EB1 or 2 - if prior to EB2 the trans computer is external.

Stick with the borgy, XG has 28 spline (anything eb2 on does). Hydratrack id take miss on and go an eaton trutrac, as long as ya not abusing it they hold 400 hp easy enough. And 400 hp in these things is a fucking handful due to the light weight.

Pre au is 0 offset and au on is +35 on a 114.3 5 stud pcd. So xf wheels will fit - might have to drop the callipers off as the rotor is larger than the x series. Id use 15" as a minimum.

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players: XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators. Sizing mounting points are all different. XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes. The bottom rad support is miles different. XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom. Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit. The E-series radiator is just that much wider. It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery. Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit. Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine. Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose. Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG. Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU. I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash. Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU. 12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car. The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping). A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom. Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay. So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower. This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of. (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings. You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump. I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Fuck having spent a long time fucking around fitting an el rad to my xf id just buy thew copper one.

yeah set the base idle stop to 650 rpm the ISC should do the rest

Okay, eb and ef on are wired differently (reverse polarity) Ef works by using vacuum to hold open the unit and power to restrict the idle back down. ED and earlier use power to open up

Yes it does, and yes you can use an rpm switch on the solenoid. BUT No one does cams for them, you have to get your reground

Had a girlfriend once who was 110 on the seat...

1. Just get them cleaned and tested. 2. I think they are a generic sanden, just replace with another of the same type. 3. Buy another 5 speed xf for this, you'll need the pedal box, bell housing, gearbox. Your existing tail shaft should be okay. Standard ECU will be fine with this - there is a plug for the clutch switch which adjusts timing when you put the clutch in - no biggie. 5 speed makes it more fun, but auto is cheap, easy to trick up by replacing with a c4.

Actually went and put an nl dash in but it’s wired to accept both the digital and nl

Another afflicted with the dodge sickness. Mines a at4-129 245 hemi.

So... The bug has hit to own a car with bulk grunt before we all turn to an electric future. That and she who must be obeyed has vetoed other choices/platforms which lend themselves to power ups which you would: a. not do because of their rarity or pure cubic dollar value (like a merc sl) b. too new (anything really) c. a holden (has taste) d. looks evil (gt falcon, but I don't have a problem with that) So that leaves the old falcon ute with a 5 speed and a efi 4.1. Now I contemplated doing a Windsor conversion, which would have been simpler, easier, and make v8 noises which appeals to me on a deep level. But I've really enjoyed the journey with this car, and being a bit different appeals to both me and the missus. It is nice to drive something a bit old school knowing you've done it yourself even if said device is being outrun by a diesel golf. And thats the problem, being outrun by the diesel golf. Now the current 4.1 thats in the car has a cam ct142-528, 5/16 yella terra roller rockers, jp timing chain. Also has an eb inlet. Languishing in the front yard has been the original numbers motor, which I put on a stand and pulled down last weekend. And even though the mains and rod bearings were fucked, generally the crank was fine, and lifter bores good. So after 4 years outside under a tarp its looking pretty good. So the plans are to build a solid motor that can take a bit of boost without going to ridiculous levels. 400-450 is the goal (and feel free to rubbish and offer advice). Bottom end balanced bottom end Ef crank (I won't need it but I've got a free one) Arp rod bolts New cast pistons acl New oil pump (not a hi vol) Head Wagoon (Ryan) sold me a head with some porting already done Ferrea inlets and exhausts 1.6" Windsor exhausts and f1220P inlets Isky 235d +retainers+collets rollers from the existing motor to be transferred over Cam open to choice but think the CT142-528 will do the job. But open to something with more lift if you guys recommend it Turbo gt3582r or master power t70 Injection Eb inlet and possibly mega squirt Anyway, happy to take advice Dave

I have a turbo - turbo and intercooler is heading to the panzerwagens crossy will get a rebuild with the parts I have as a decent n/a streeter

Ah this little project.... i have a pile of bits. but as yet unassembled. ef crank - free xf block - have ground out the relief on the block to allow rollers valves springs and head inlet manifold - done previously. pistons - to be brought rod bolts - need to get cam not yet brought panzerwagens are in the way at the moment.

Yeah I bet she has too. And yeah heard ears her read mean tweets on jimmy Kimmel too

Is this where toungue punch her fartbox comes from lads.

Gonna punt and say e1

Shouldn't be, most of the xf shit was the lower firewall panel for the new heater box. This put the heater pipes right where head would be on a 351. doesnt matter for the 302w the e-series and au's used the same lower firewall panel too.

This is true too

Okay flow rockers are basically clevo type but in two stud sizes. 5/16 pedestal mount - no machining 7/16 stud mount - needs machining The 5/16 this run the risk of pulling out at high rpm - but this is dependent on your cam size and valve spring pressure. This is something ando gets very passionate about. I’m surprised the mention of double springs hasn’t woken him up. the 7/16ths are more common and easy to get but need the pedestal machines to take the stud mount. They tend to be more stable but n high rpm scenarios, and then if you’re really serious in running a big cam you need pushrods and guide plates. But this is a serious engine something that sacrifices some crossy strengths ( low down torque) and drive ability for those moments when you can hold a throttle fat and go waaa waaa waaa. i have a set of the 5/16 adjustables in my xf. It’s efi, they do not fit under the efi cover without an aussiespeed spacer. It’s also not standard efi - eb inlet el ecu with quarter horse. i could have gone v8 had less hassles but I kinda like how friendly the crossy is. It’s not a fast combo but it’s a great streeter with a Bit of attitude which I’ve learnt a lot from. Other guys like rob and ando will have their own bit to add to this but hopefully this helps in the interim Dave

Sound like said mechanic is a clown.

Fuck yeah I love it.

I’m with Thom... youll be doing a rebuild shortly. Easier to fix it now properly. Saves labor too. and it costs nothing to put something nicer in there but being efi anything bigger than a bees dick and it will drive shit.

Just use silicon and just a smear