Panko
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Well, here we go again. A week ago, i had no intention of buying another Mk1 Escort any time soon. However, a mate of mine from when I had my last escort couldn't resist contacting me, and putting me onto this beautiful little 4 door Mk1 for sale way up in Kerang, about 3 hours north of Melbourne. I took a look at the photos, and promptly called the owner. I was pretty much sold there and then. So yesterday, Michael (my Escort informant), my good mate Callin and I set off from Sunbury at around 9am in Michael's VW Amarok (I'm glad we did...ill explain soon) to go look at this car, with cash in hand ready to drive this beauty home to Melbourne. The owner was a retired old guy, who collects some interesting and beautiful cars. He was very honest with his asking price, and very genuine. I somewhat feel like i might have ripped him off a little with the price, but it was well within his price range, and he was happy to accept. Even left his club plates for me to drive it home. now for the good (and bad) photos of our adventure. These next few pics are the photos the owner sent me. the car is totally original. 1975 (october) factory 4 speed 1300XL. Has 139,000km on the odometer, but the engine in it apparently has about half that. The original engine came with the car, which has been rebuilt as some stage, with non standard pistons...so some investigation needs to go into that, as it may end up being a stronger engine than the one thats in it...very weird. interior is MINT. the previous owner had it for about 3.5 years, and only drove it a handful of times. SO i bought the car, and set off on the long journey home. during the test drove she drove like a dream. smooth, plenty of power and comfy... we got 30 minutes from Kerang then this happened.... obviously the guy i bought it from never had a problem with the car because it only ever got driven around town, never on the HWY. so me attempting to drive it home, sitting on 90km/h was enough to sort out the bugs...like the distributor which was inevitably going to die..and leave me standard SO, we flat towed the car as far has Harcourt, where Michael's dad was nice enough to borrow a friends trailer, and meet us. we trailered it back to Michael's house, arriving back to Sunbury about 8pm last night. and thats where i left the car, on the trailer in Michael's driveway, along with 1 of his Mk1 4 door Escorts. A big thanks to Michael and Callin for the support and help yesterday, i would've been fucked if i had taken the xf or my daily to go collect it. thank fuck for Michael and his Rok. anyway, Michael is a legend, he is going to get it going for me (just needs a dizzy) at his house. Can not wait to start enjoying this beast
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I have also today picked up two more original cortina steelies that match the front (different slots around the outside of the centres) and are in better condition than the rears. In due time i will get them blasted and coated to match the front two, and then ill put one of the current rears in the boot as a matched spare
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This week, I had the Escort in with a detailer to add the "final touch" to the body work. It has had a 2 stage paint correction and decontamination, then ceramic coating. I expected it come up good, but it came out better than I could have ever imagined. I was speechless when Simo from Bez Detailing sent me the photos. I dont know what else to say other than wow
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I also want to come up with a better solution for holding the leads. I currently use the factory rubber block that just sits on top of the rocker cover, but have noticed all of them around that area have gone black from heat. Which tells me i need a solution to seperate them out away from each other and maybe isolate them from the rocker cover a bit more
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I have an idea for a centre cap yeah. But for now i also kind of like them as they are, makes it look a bit more “racy”, if you will.
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Well time for an update. I was having ignition issues again, with a random misfire under load. I replaced the points in the dizzy, which helped but didn’t get rid of it. So I bit the bullet and bought an electronic ignition module to convert the Lucas points dizzy to electronic. Install was easy but wiring it (properly this time) into the car was a bit of work, and the car is definitely running better. - Lets start with the wiring. It turned out that the Escort is a resisted ignition system, so at the coil it only gets 9v. Much less than the 12v the electronic ignition required. It also turned out that the GT40 coil I was running was a 12v coil, not a resistor type. So, i did some trickery with the ignition. Ive installed a 12v relay which takes a feed direct from the battery, and used the resister wire (9v) to turn the relay on and off. The relay is then supplying the coil, and im powering the dizzy off the coil. Has it got more power? Not really. But, it has better power delivery right across the rev range, and is more linear. Funny thing is, I still have not replaced plugs, leads or air cleaner. Bursons sold me the wrong plugs twice, and thats as far as i got. I have finally got the 13” steelies on. The car looks completely different now. They didn’t come out as dark as I wanted. They are a bit grey, but they are metallic. I installed new, longer studs. Funny enough, they were off the shelf from Autobarn, 10mm longer. The spline was just 0.2mm larger, and pressed into the hubs fine. Spacers are on, and it all clears. They fill the guards nicely. The two rusty wheels were a bit too pitted for the powder coating to fill, so up close they are a bit bumpy. anyway, the pics can do the talking
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I picked the car up this morning and spent this afternoon putting it back together. So what is next? I can go back to doing what I was doing before this little hiccup. The car needs a good clean inside and out after being in the panel shop. I have new spark plugs and points for the ignition system, need to get new ignition leads. All of that stuff is still off the old 1300. It desperately needs a new air cleaner, looking to run a K&N weber air filter, just have to find one that fits. Its then the wheels. Before all this happened, i was getting the 13 x 6 steelies fitted. I need extended studs to take the 5mm spacers, then get the wheels blasted and powder coated. I cant wait to get them on the car. It will definitely be a different look for it. The more i drive the car on the 15s, the more i realise how, not up to the task those tyres are. They are getting on for 10 years old for starts, but also they are eco tyres due to the unique size. With the Escort having a fair bit more grunt, even on dry roads, and even from a rolling start, it will spin the back tyres. Like today, mid intersection, (turning right), 2nd gear, and started accelerating out of the intersection, granted i put the foot into it get going, and i felt the back started to step out. I guess with the old 1300, i could barely break traction, so those tyres didn't bother me. Now, well yeah they don't hold on at all with the 1660. my 13" tyres, are a much better tyre, semi performance tyre. I think I'm losing out on general grip, but also handling because of those tyres on the 15s. so I can't wait to get the 13" steelies done, and on the car with some decent tyres.
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oh very much so
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Ive been a little quiet again, because well, i can't catch a break. The poor little Escort is back in the panel shop at the moment...I'll get to that further down So going back to where I was up to in my previous post, fitting these wheels, and having brake issues... I found a place in Moorabbin who CNC billet slip on spacers for thousands of different cars, as well as other random parts and stuff that is not car related. They are made to order, but they had a listing for hub centric spacers for Escorts. less than $100, and i have billet 5mm slip on spacers so the front wheels will clear my brakes. This is where the wheels sit with the spacer in behind. they do clear. I have had the car out on the street with it all sitting flat and in level etc etc, and they do not scrub anywhere, but they do fill the front guards perfectly. I can't wait to get them on I had been bench testing the master cylinder to make sure i got rid of the leak...how? well I ended up finding the old o-ring from before i rebuilt the master cylinder, which is a round profile instead of square. it was in good condition, so reinstalled that, then had the reservoir filled with fluid, and was using a pulling tool to recreate the motion of applying the brakes on and off. I left it on the bench with fluid in it for a few days to be sure it wasn't leaking. and success. So I reinstalled the master cylinder, ready to bleed the brakes and get them working and car driving... ..... then this happened ...... Where do i even start? I was pushing the car around the shed by hand, getting it into position to jack it up and put on stands so i could get underneath to bleed the brakes. I was rushing and I rolled it a bit too far forward. The car rolled off the concrete slab shed floor, onto the (downhill) driveway that leads to the laneway that the shed exits onto. Now before you ask, I did have wheel chocks, they were purposely just down the driveway a bit so i had more room to move the Escort around, however it was raining, so when the car rolled into the chocks it managed to push them out the way on the slipper concrete driveway. The Escort proceeded to roll across the laneway and into the wire fence of the office building behind I did manage to slow the car down by doing the silly thing and getting in front of it, getting out of the way in time to not be pinned against the fence. so the damage could have been a lot worse if i didn't slow it down. i couldn't reach to grab the handbrake quick enough either. As you can imagine i was furious, at myself more than anything else. it took me weeks to bring myself to call Mark and tell him the car was coming back to him. He was furious with me too. After cooling down, i finished bleeding the brakes, and decided id have a go at fixing the worst of the damage myself... Using a heat gun to warm things up and a ratchet i pulled the dent out, reversing the initial impact. I could at least get the bumpers back on, and get it looking presentable again so I didn't feel so upset. When this all happened, after bleeding the brakes the same day that i did this, I left the car on stands for about 2 weeks. I would walk into the shed, see it, and walk back out. i had no motivation to fix it, or even look at the car. When I finally did get it off stands, fix the dent, fitted the bumpers, washed it and took it for a drive, i finally had the guts to call Mark and get it in for repairs, which is where the car has now been for a week. I have no idea how long it will take, or how much, i simply left the car with Mark and told him to just repair it and tell me when its done. So apart from the paint damage around the headlight, the car still presented really well, and once I gave it a wash, was nice to just stand back and look at it and appreciate that it still looked fine even with the damage, and when its repaired (again) it will only be better. This was a shitty day, pulling it apart again to go back to Marks.
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I should say that i rebuild the master cylinder. The o-ring that i used came in the rebuild kit. But i don’t believe its right. and given i replaced the booster, i figure ill just replace the master cylinder with a brand new unit.
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Well sadly the Escort is broken and off the road Ive been dealing with a brake fluid leak from the master cylinder. I found the issue and now in the process of sourcing a new master cylinder. I pulled the master cylinder out after discovering the leak was coming the bottom of the reservoir. Turns out its been leaking probably since the day i installed the brakes. Can see the damage to the new booster already that o-ring is the culprit Ill do my best to explain… basically the outside diameter (OD) is perfect, but the inside diameter (ID) is too large. Meaning fluid can get between the opening of the reservoir and inlet of the master cylinder, and the o-ring, rather than guiding the fluid directly into the master cylinder The photo below shows how much of a gap there is between the ID of the o-ring and the actual diameter of the inlet into the master cylinder. Same o-ring showing the difference in size in relation to the reservoir. While the car has been off the road with no brakes i have been test fitting my 13 x 6” steelies yeah bit of a clearance issue with the brakes they clear with a 5mm spacer. One of the wheels needed to be rerolled. I picked that up today and had a tyre off one of my RS wheels fitted to it so i could test fit on the car properly, with 5mm spacer in situ. The result is they clear. They really fill the front arches. If i did have the guards rolled id be screwed, but i don’t believe they will scrub. im yet to try on the rear (no spacer needed) Now imagine these powder coated silver. Doing the wheel swap, i was reminded how light the 15s are. They are insane. so it got me thinking. Do i do the wide 13s, which are heavy, or keep the 15s and put some decent tyres on them. Rather than the eco tyres which is all i could get at the time.
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Going back a bit, these are a couple of photos rolling into Small Ford Sunday. taken no more than 30 seconds apart, on two different cameras, but makes the colour look completely different. this colour still amazes, but also annoys me with how both good and bad it can look depending on the light its in the joys of metallic paint i guess. *the second pic is more true to the actual colour** I finally got the front bumpers back, and they came up fantastic. worth the wait. Now onto some mechanical gremlins. I had been having an issue with the cooling system. not over heating, but in fact running too cold. not getting warm enough to actually open the thermostat, which was a standard 89 degree thermostat. I figured it was because the alloy radiator was so efficient at cooling that yeah meant that I couldn't get her up to temp, and had no heater. This whole time I had been running just water in the cooling system, not coolant, to try flush the system out as best I can. I figured with this lack of heating issue, id pull the thermostat out and then put some coolant in. This is what came out. its a piece of gasket goo stuck in the thermostat. notice also the colour. that thermostat was brand new with this engine. so it has gone a very rusty brown colour thanks to the water. Pushing on the diaphragm by hand, the thermostat felt a little sticky. didnt want to move smoothly to open or close. So I ended replacing it with an 82 degree thermostat. not to make it run cooler, but so the thermostat would open earlier and start circulating coolant earlier. with that, and coolant in the system, it has made a difference. it gets up to the correct 88 degrees running temp now, rather than running too cold. Good Friday, the RSOCV had their annual Good Friday cruise. Over 30 cars got involved, and we went out to Warburton, up Mt Donna Buang (some of us more spiritedly than others) then back down and to Yarra Glen Hotel for lunch. Having driven the Escort up there previously with the 1300, flat out, and now with the 1660, also flat out, it was a much faster drive up there. I had a mate of mine in his Mini come along, who was behind me on the way up. Although I am not too concerned, he did tell me that it was blowing a bit of blue smoke between gear changes. granted I was pushing it, its the hardest it had been driven, and it was mighty cold up there. but it did it well. I adjusted the suspension up a bit to be stiffer, and boy does it turn well. On the way home, my buddy in the mini, and me couldnt resist but to see how they compared. its the first time the mini and escort had been out together. the Mini is a 1999 Rover, with a single point injected 1275cc, from Japan. Its since had a Cooper performance kit fitted, which includes a ported head with roller rockers, headers, exhaust, bigger injector, and a few other go fast parts. The Mini weighs 100kg less than the Escort, at 740kg, and with the Cooper engine package produces about 65kw. The Escort, a stock 1600 produces 60-65kw. Mine is a 1660, with a cam, weber, etc etc. It was a good comparison, the Mini nudged in front basically because i was slow getting into 2nd gear, otherwise equally matched. So for such a small engine in the Mini, it goes really well. its pretty quick little thing. I had to do a weekend run over to work HQ in Footscray, so jumped in the Escort to save the diesel in my daily. it really is such a great improvement over what it used to be in pretty much every aspect. able to sit on the highway comfortably, plenty of grunt to pull away, it just gets very warm in the cabin very easily, which was always the case.
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Im pretty sure i held 5th at speed up there. I don’t remember really having to work 4th. i think once it was at speed, it could hold 5th up hill fine. i can cruise around in 5th at 60km/h for example.
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Well there hasn’t been much more work on the Escort, even though it still needs some finishing touches. Today however, I drove the car up to my good friend Michael’s house in Sunbury. Michael is the friend who found me this car for sale way back in 2016 when I bought it, and he hasn’t seen it since the accident. I figured it was about time i took it up to him to finally see it finished. From place its a bit over an hour, and a good bit of sitting on highway with 110km/h speed limit. Today in Melbourne it was around 29 degrees. The Escort, sat on 110km/h, or a bit more, with ease. That 5th gear has made it such a better car to drive. This was also the furthest from home (as the crow flies) i had driven the car, and the most highway, and highway speed driving it has done. everything was good. Temp was good, oil pressure, rpm, sat on about 3200rpm at 110km/h. I think today was a really good test for it, and it seems to be good and sorted. I was a little nervous being that far from home in case something happened.
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Its more about how im going to install it and hold it in place. haven't figured that one out yet. ill come up with something eventually.
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Thanks James. Now I just want to drive it all the time, but don’t want to use up my logbook days too quick, and I also don’t want to neglect the wagon.
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Thanks bear. No I haven’t covered the back of the seat yet. Not entirely sure how I’ll do that yet. But yeah eventually i will make something to tidy the back of the boot up a little. The Recaros, are up there as one of the best things I did to the car. Put aside how well they hold you in, they are comfy. I can sit in it on long drives now, and be happy.
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So lets back, and go through the last few weeks worth of work on the car… I had to add an additional return spring on the throttle, I found it sticking when things got hot. now for a fun one. I lost all power, and it wouldn’t idle or anything. below, the rotor button is at TDC and should be aligned with the black line on the dizzy. Somehow, the dizzy drive cog had managed to jump a tooth. And end up way retarded on the timing. the only way this could have happened is if the dizzy wasn’t quite engaged properly. thankfully no damage was done, and was fixed by grabbing the clamp off the aftermarket dizzy i had and adapting it to this original unit to hold it in the block better. The final hurdle before installing the carpet was a pesky water leak. The leak ended up being from where all that old body sealer is. There are 3 panels that all join there. The top and the bottom of the trans tunnel, and then the firewall come floor pan. These cars were built terribly from factory, and basically there was about a 10mm gap between the bottom of the trans tunnel and firewall, and had just been filled with body sealer. sealed up with Sika Flex and problem solved. Rear carpet went in. Next was the sub install. my brother CNC cut an adapter so I didn’t have to do any cutting to the car. Obviously i enjoy listening to the engine and exhaust, but on longer drives its nice just to be able to listen to tunes and the finished product From there seats went in. What I didn’t take photos of was the sound deadening. With the offcuts I filled the void under the backseat base to keep temps and noise down from the exhaust, the muffler is directly under the passenger side rear seat. The floor has a pressed recess in it to house the muffler Im wrapped with how well the front seats suit the rest of the interior Now onto the last push on Friday last week. Left is the original condition of the sill trims. And right was finished to the best i could do with what i had. that is a drill mounted 75mm sanding pad with wet and dry 500 grit then 1200 grit and hand polished with metal polish. Then to finish then off, 12mm wide black pin stripe from SCA. Without the trims, it looks a little bare. With them on. It just finishes the car off Then there was the gear lever swap. Pretty straightforward, but notice now, in neutral, the gear lever is already just between the seats. In 2nd and 4th, it comes right back over the handbrake lever it has a super long throw, but is quite nice. First proper wash in a long time, and with the 15s back on. one of the things that will need doing to finish the car is a professional polish and ceramic coating, to really make the metallic paint pop. First drive and photos after wash and being mostly finished Monday I sat down and wired up the amp and stereo. Nice little compact amp hidden away under the passenger seat. Its the little touches that make the difference. I got a brand new moulded boot carpet from Knox Auto Carpets. Fantastic service. Went in, they made it there and then. Waited 15 minutes while they pressed the shape and did the stitching. That is basically where I am up to with the car. The front seats are out again at the moment (for the last time) while i spray the rail adapters black. They will be back in today. Then, the interior is 100% finished.
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Thanks guys. Its a huge effort, and its something i don’t want to do again. Ever. well at least not from a smashed base. Id probably be ok with building a car from a good base, but not from something thats been stacked. There will always be things I wish I had done differently. I wish i had replaced the roof lining. I was convinced to leave it because its original and to be fair, in good condition. I may still do it in the future. Im on the fence with the carpet. The rear is in great condition, front for obvious reasons is worn out. There are things like the P clips I used in the engine bay for wiring. Most of them reused existing holes but most had to drilled larger to allow for nut inserts/rivet nuts to go in. I have no memory, of touching up the bare metal after enlarging these holes, although it’s something im sure i did, i took no record like photos of proof that i did. So i hope i did, or im sure ill start seeing minor surface rust. there are things I will probably change in the future like the fuel supply line. The hose is fine, the way I’ve pinned it to the chassis could be better. Otherwise I am just happy to have it back on the road, and now I can just enjoy it. on the note of the wheels, i had a deep think about wheels for it about a week ago. I look at my wagon with the 18” Snowflakes, and I can safely say I found “the wheel” for that car. You know, the wheel that just finishes the car off and suits the car better than any other option. With the Escort, I haven’t found “that wheel” yet. I love the 15s, for their lightweight design, the style and the look it gives the car, but they are 15s. The RS 4 spokes look amazing when they are in good condition, mine have deteriorated and don’t have the appeal at the moment. I took them off because they were letting the rest of the car down. But when finances allow, ill have them professionally restored. In the meantime, im going go a different path. I have a set of genuine ROH manufactured, Lotus Cortina 13 x 6 steel wheels. Their offset is approximately 10mm further proud than factory Escort offset, which is why I had the guards rolled. I plan to have these cleaned up and powder coated in silver, and im hoping these will give the car a more aggressive, but period correct stance with the wide steelies.
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Ok I should probably update you all. its a month since my last update and well, the car is very close to finished, with only relatively minor things needed to finish it off. I only have the photos on my phone, so i will get to them in a seperate post, but I'll give you the run down. The interior is all back in, including the new mass sound deadener/carpet underlay, which made a massive difference to cabin noise. The brand new reproduction inner sill trims/carpet trims are in. I was under pressure from the RSOCV guys about getting the car "finished", or at the very least ready for display at Small Ford Sunday 2024, which happened Sunday just gone. So I had a lot of work ahead of me, with less than 4 weeks (since my last update) so get the car sorted. Needless to say, i made it. I had the car at SFS24, running and driving under its own power. Although it made it to SFS, the stereo wasn't wired up, thats not a big deal, but as of Friday morning the car nearly didn't make it. As of Friday morning, the car was not drivable. I was shattered. The car was having gearbox issues, which scared the crap out of me, given Rod and I had modified the gearbox, I was terrified something with the gearbox went wrong, but it was the aftermarket short shifter. How? well i wouldn't have believed it, if I didn't read it on a number of UK based forums, that some cheaper or lesser quality short shifters randomly fail, causing issues with being able to select 1st gear. In my case, I could not engage 1st gear at all, and it was crunching into 5th The fix, was to refit the standard shifter, and sure enough, problem solved. Friday, 2 days out from SFS, i still had a few things to sort out. - Fix the gearbox issue - finish polishing the outer sill trims, replace black stripe, and fit back on the car (pop riveted on) - and change the wheels to something presentable. the 13" 4 spokes are nice, but the black paint is flaking again, so need a pro resto job. so the car is back to running on the 15s. Ive been putting some decent kms on the car, driving back and forth to my folks place to reassemble the car in stages. the fuel consumption is the best it has ever been in the time ive owned the car, returning 9.8L/100km on the first tank i recorded. It will definitely go lower on the open road, and when I stop using so much throttle with the new carpet underlay in, the Recaro seats, and the 5 speed, the car is comfortable, and really nice to drive basically anywhere. i can sit on the freeway and cruise in it at 100km/h no worries. its not noisy, it feels tight, its not working too hard, and it doesn't get hot. So, whats left to do? - I need to add headlight film to protect the lights - look at the thermostat/cooling system. its not building temp. i suspect the thermostat is stuck open. - Stereo is all wired up, and sounds great - Front seat rail adapters have been painted today, so tomorrow the front seats can go back in for the last time, - waiting on front bumpers to come back from chrome platers. Other than those few things, the car is mostly done. interior is complete, once the front seats go back in. exterior is 95% there. So on that note I am just going to leave these two pics below as teasers. In my next update I will add more pics and details of what I went through the last few weeks. there was definitely some challenges. The top pic is the first drive around the block with the stock shifter back in the gearbox, and the 15" wheels back on. as you can see its a bit later in the day, so it was my only chance to test things out before SFS. The second pic, is a bit like a proud dad moment, driving the Escort into Small Ford Sunday to display the car. first time I have been in over 3 years, and in my own car again, was a such a great feeling. and the number of people who came to me and wanted to talk to me about the car, because they had heard its story, and what it had been through, was a little overwhelming.
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Well some good news. I do have oil pressure. i went to my dad’s place today and he helped plumb in a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Not very fine increments, but that is reading around 30-35psi. at the same time the VDO inside was reading 20psi. So my VDO sender appears to be playing up. Ill just leave the below pic there for you to all enjoy. first time the Escort has been at my parent’s house since it was off the road. A quick snap with my father’s S2 Land Rover, affectionately known as George, 1 of 2 specially built, fire service vehicles for Sydney Showgrounds. Unfortunately George’s brother is nowhere to be found. While George has had a full tear down, nut and bolt restoration done by the previous owner.
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I have no idea how old they are. The dissy is a working Lucas Australia one i had in a box of spares. So who knows how old they are unfortunately.
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So small update. i checked the points, gapped them and cleaned them up. Can’t say it made a difference, maybe marginal improvement to idle and smoothness on the road. As a whole im pretty happy with the way its driving. Effortless power across the board, but doesn’t like high RPM, or maybe i just don’t like the noise it makes. I checked the invoice from the head work, and I did not get the valve springs replaced, so maybe i need to run some heavier valve springs. The oil pressure hasn’t improved with thicker oil, so im hoping that it is a stuck relief valve. In fact today being 30 degrees, when the oil was hot the pressure dropped off to just under 20psi at idle. I adjusted valve clearance again, because i found the spec sheet for my cam this morning, and it requires tighter clearances than factory spec. So it should now be correct. The car goes back in the shed today. I now some work ahead of me to sort out this oil pressure issue, and i need to put the rest of the car back together.
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I dropped the oil this afternoon, which is was still the thing racing “run in” and put in 20w60 mineral oil. After that at highway speed it did come up to nearly 30psi. So the gauge does move. that is a good question about the valve springs. I had the head done up. Ill have to find the invoice and see if the springs were replaced. It could well be valve bounce
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Well I did it. I had an aim to get the Escort out and driving by NYE, during my week off work. It is not without its teething issues, but all i can say is, wow. The 1660 with 5 speed drives incredible. the power and torque delivery is really nice and mostly linear. Obviously im comparing to a tired 1300 that was in there. Giving the car a run onto the freeway, it gets there to 100km/h quicker than it ever has, and with still 2 more gears to go. The engine has good torque right throughout the rev range, so much so that at 60km/h it will still pull in 5th gear, which is about 2000rpm. at 70km/h, 2100rpm, it will pull up hill in 5th comfortably. At 100km/h, its sitting on 3100rpm in 5th, and cruises just nicely. Steering The new 2.9 ratio steering rack is fantastic. im super happy i did it. the little extra weight at low speeds is so worth it for how much better the car drives now. going round corners, going round roundabouts, it is better in every way. Brakes They still need time to bed in properly, but they pull up really good. can't wait to have them bedded in properly. Radiator is doing a dam good job. i haven't seen it climb to half (normal) temp at all. its keeping the temp perfect. even on the freeway at prolonged higher revs, no problem. Now for the BAD As you will see in a photo of the dash below, the oil pressure is leading low, way too low. 20psi. and it does not move. I managed to find a record i took from when I started the engine for the first time about 18 months ago, where I had hooked up my oil pressure gauge. at the time it was holding a solid 38psi. so now why does it only hold 20psi? Potentially one of two things; 1 - the relief valve on the oil pump is stuck open and is not allowing it to build oil pressure, or 2 - the oil pressure is fine, and the sender for the gauge is faulty. Fuelling - The car obviously needs a tune. it drives great, but does have a bit of hesitation at certain RPM and part throttle positions. at WOT, its fine just pulls. I also feel like im missing the last 1000-1500rpm in the engine. winding it up onto the freeway, going through the gears, as soon as it hits 5000rpm, the sound changes, the engine gets louder and more "rattly"? This adds to the concern of the low oil pressure, that perhaps that i can't use the top end of the RPM due to low oil pressure. at the moment this is not too much of a concern because it will be rarely driven up there. Ignition - Obviously as you saw in a previous post, I blew my electronic distributor up, so I went back to running the Lucas points ignition setup. it works, but I will be replacing it with something more substantial to keep up with the demands of the larger capacity engine and cam. Enjoy the few pics below. I still have a bit of work ahead of me, but I am loving having it driving, and to be honest, it is dangerous how quickly it gets up to speed. i could definitely get myself into trouble