SPArKy_Dave

Injected gas seems to be quite finicky, and expensive injectors too. I'd be interested to know, which has more potential/reliability, when turbocharged - injected or mixer system

I think they're just a single spring, with a damper inside them. (for higher rev applications)

Is it a leaded or unleaded engine? (pre or post 86') Those valve stem seals, are for leaded engines.

Just hold off, until @ando76 replies... he's forgotten more about crossflows, than most of us will ever know.

They are a lock nut, normal thread. My advice - Don't fit a nolathane one... very bad idea, they crumble. You can get new/repro OEM style ones, with the reinforced rubber.

Don't say the 'M' word (manual) around @2redrovers, or you'll get blasted...

My advice, is to use repro parts sparingly. Refurb and re-use as much of your original parts as possible, as they have a superior fit. You can't polish up the chrome mouldings, as they're actually clear anodised polished aluminium. To fix it, you have to chemically strip off the anodising, then re-polish, then re-anodise, and then mask/paint the blackouts. Rare Spares are the only ones doing repro window belt moulding seals to my knowledge. Definitely replace those seals if your original's are old and hard, as they will start scratching the glass, when you wind the windows up/down.

There's a $200 one on Facebook atm.

graffix unlimited - they have the decal's.

I stumbled upon an old Brake Booster rebuild tutorial thread, over on the Ford Australia Forums, and thought it well worthy of adding to our Archives... Here's a summary of the rubber components (with pricing), used in the below rebuild - VH2013 - Reaction Disc - $6.60 VH2015 - Front Seal - $5.41 VH2588(2580?) - Main Diaphragm - $39.60 VH2579 - Main Diaphragm - $31.33 VH2029 - Rear Seal - $26.40 The complete XC/XD/XE brake booster assembly part no. is/was VH395 For further info, see the following link to another excellent rebuild tutorial we have, created by fellow OzFalcon member 'jca4'. Full credit for the following write-up, goes to Wayne (aka XC GXL on Ford Forums). _______________________________________________________________________________________________ Some of us live overseas with these beauties and when something goes wrong we either have to spend a truck load on postage (and sometimes extra TAX) or we improvise with what is available to get our cars back on the road. Well I had a brake booster failure a little while back and fortunately I had a decent spare however I looked into getting a spare sent over and the cost of a reconditioned one including postage was frightening. I was fortunate enough to meet a bloke in Wollongong before I left in the brake and clutch business as I got some bits and pieces for the XC before I left home. When the booster failed I rang him and he was kind enough to send me over all of the major parts to recondition an XC/XD/XE brake booster. Here is an exploded view showing the parts I replaced. and here are a few photos of the replacement parts I decided to try to tackle a rebuild although I have never done so before and was a little daunted by it initially like how to spilt it, replacing diaphragms etc, etc. Well I managed to overhaul 3 that I had which were knackered with success. So for all of you guys living overseas and those of you who want to overhaul your own booster this is how I did it. Firstly I made up a jig to enable me to split the booster as the top section needs to be twisted from the lower section and can take a bit of force. The jig looks a little Heath Robinson but it worked a treat for me. Once the top is split the M20 rod, which incidentally is 500mm long with a 13mm hole 70mm deep drilled into each end to enable the plate to not foul with the Rod and Valve Assy (Part no 2377), is wound back to enable the spring to be detensioned safely. This part is really necessary during reassembly as trying to hold the spring down while trying to locate the top to the bottom is difficult. Remove the Rod and Valve Assy (2377). This is the one from a 38 year old car and needs a good clean. This is from a 38 year old XC and was a little worse for wear. I only used WD40 and wire wool to clean all these parts. Disassembled. All that is needed for this is a strip down, clean and reassemble. Make sure that the little piston is removed and cleaned and the reaction disc (Part No 2414 from drawing and replacement part no VH2013) replaced and that the piston is free to move. Once this is split the main diaphragm assembly can be removed from the housings. Again this takes a bit of force as the whole assembly needs to be pushed from the lower seal. This is how they look once removed. Any wonder the brakes were a little odd! To remove the pedal to booster assemble simply remove the circlip and the whole rod pushes out. To remove the diaphragms you will need a small flat blunt screwdriver as the diaphragms are sandwiched between the Valve Body (Part No 2391) and the Diaphragm Plates (Part No’s 2395A, 2395B and 2395C). Take note of the disassemble sequence although the assembly can only go one way when reassembling. here is the assembly without the diaphragms Remove the rear seal from the main housing. This is not shown clearly on the Ford exploded view but is replacement part No VH2029. I then cleaned the whole lot up with wire wool, soapy water and some fine wet and dry. Replace all the diaphragms (replacement part No’s 2A365B = 2579 and 2A365A = 2588). This requires a little silicone grease around the inner lip of the diaphragm and then just force (using hands only) the diaphragm between the diaphragm plate and the Valve Body. It takes some effort but goes eventually. Do this for both Diapragms. Make sure that the diaphragm 2A365B (2579) is pushed up around the outer lip on 2395B as this allows the vacuum to be formed when in use. This is a final assembled unit. Also when the whole assembly is put back into the main housing make sure that the top diaphragms 2A365A is (2588) outer edge is below the retaining indents to enable a seal between the housing and the diaphragm plate 2395B. I then just put the whole part assembly back into the jig compressed the top housing and spring and then tapped the top cover around using a soft hammer and the plate that I made to go over the master cylinder mounting studs. I managed to do one in about 1 hour including cleaning. It is a pretty simple job really if you have the right set up. If there is anything I didn't describe well please let me know and I'll only be too happy to help where I can. Wayne

*is great... @jca4's tutorial, will always be the original, and the best.

You can buy both the Gregories one, AND the XF Ford factory service manual, on ebay I think? Just looking now, there are about 20 copies of the above, for sale on ebay atm. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.XXF+Ford+service+manual.TRS0&_nkw=XF+Ford+service+manual&_sacat=0

My advise, is to leave everything in place. They work to alter the timing, and control the vacuum advance. (84/85 XF = non-est distributor) And also to control the fuel delivery/enrichment with the carby, along with the EGR valve operation too. Removing the vacuum lines (as messy as it may look) will make it run worse. I'd set myself a challenge, to see how neat you can make the factory setup look - cable tie/re-position the lines/hoses, etc.

au 6 cylinder does have the same input shaft length as e series (and xf) 6 cylinder 4.0, I used an au bellhousing when I put the au based 4.0 in my xh but I kept the original xh t5, but the au extension housing is longer and the shifter is 30mm further rearward than earlier t5's. What about the V8 boxes? Are they different dimensions, to the 6cyl T5's?

Found this interesting video on youtube!

As long as the engine block earth is ok, with appropriate gauge cable for 140A (battery to block, and engine block to body), then the alternator will be earthed just by being bolted to the engine.

The motor's have an over-temp cutout in them. If there's too much drag throughout the mechanism, from lack of grease etc, they get hot and cut out.

If you have the proper crimping tool, you can easily buy the raw plugs, and make a hybrid headlight loom, thus avoiding any soldered connections.

I thought he was talking about the harness, in the boot lid itself?

Those questions might be better answered if you go to a wreckers and suss out the various models in person. I can't think of any real differences. They'll only have number plate and boot lock actuator wiring I think?

Also, can you take a pic of the upper and lower radiator hoses for me? Specifically where they connect to the engine and to the radiator.

The fuel regulator is the canister looking thing, at the end of the fuel rail, up at the firewall. It has a vacuum line running into the top of it. The map sensor, is a rectangular plastic box thingy, with a plug and vacuum line. It lives just under the edge of the radiator coolant tank, also up near the firewall.

Check fuel pump, fuel regulator and/or Map sensor.

Yes, I know the radiator suppliers... I've replied in your main thread.

The wheels, I really like though! edit - what about doing the van, in a rat-rod theme? satin black, widened red Lotus Cortina GT steel wheels/stock dog dish hub caps/whitewalls, and some cool 50's pinstriping and business logo writing on the sides in bronze/gold/silver?