SPArKy_Dave

Please excuse the fragmented nature, of the below info... I progressively update this post with copy/paste info, as I find it across the net. (latest updates - 09/03/20, 24/08/20 and 05/04/21) _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.hemiperformance.com.au/shop/shop-by-category/transmission/manual-4-speed.html BW gearbox prefix numbers - 0501 0503 - Borg Warner 4spd single rail - Ford Falcon, Valiant, Leyland P76? 0505 0506 - Borg Warner 5spd single rail with modified shifter to make it 4spd - 3.3ltr crossflow? 0507 - Borg Warner 5spd single rail - 3.3ltr crossflow - XE onward, and Mitsubishi Sigma XB, all models including 351 GT with 2v heads had the BW 0503-003 (6cyl and 302 has BW 0503-006). XC/XD 4.1/4.9 had the BW 0503-009 XC/XD 5.8 0503-008. 003 is 1st 2.82, 2nd 1.84, 3rd 1.32, 4th 1.00 - (4.9) 006 is 1st 3.06 - possibly (3.3/4.1) not sure on ratio's yet 009 is 1st 3.06, 2nd 1.84, 3rd 1.32, 4th 1.00 - (4.9) 008 is 1st 2.46, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.27, 4th 1.00 - (5.8) Ford never published the codes for XE and XF but the 1st gear ratios are XE 6 cyl. carb 3.43 XE efi & 302 3.06 XE 351 2.46 XF efi 3.40 XF carb 3.50 Other numbers XB Single Rail - 74DA-7003-AB 0503 006 3192 0503-006-3013 XD Single Rail? 78DA-7003-CB 0503-014 (8096) 76 DA 7003 AA 05 03 009 84 DA 7003 BA 0503 038 xd/e/f 0503 carby 1st-3.43 2nd-1.99 3rd-1.43 4th-1.00 rev-3.29 0503 efi 1st-3.50 2nd-1.99 3rd-1.32 4th-1.00 rev-3.47 0506 1st-3.47 2nd-1.96 3rd-1.26 4th-1.00 rev-3.37 0507 5spe 1st-3.47 2nd-1.96 3rd-1.26 4th-1.00 5th-0.79 rev-3.37 xa/b/c 0503-009 (4.1/4.9) 1st-3.06 2nd-1.84 3rd-1.32 4th-1.00 0503-008 (5.8) 1st-2.46 2nd-1.78 3rd-1.27 4th-1.00 A 250 or 302 single rail is rated to 285lb/ft, similar to a stock T5. A 351 single rail is rated to 325lb/ft which is the same as a Z-type T5. A std. wide ratio Toploader is rated at 375lb/ft and a bull nose 425lb/ft. BW single rail differences. All have same mounting flange, which is the same as the 3 speed box except for one bolt. Valiant has longer, finer input shaft, same output I think. Valiant has a short shifter shaft with a dogleg intermediate rod to clear the Valiant crossmember. Valiant has 2.84 first gear, so does cortina. Cortina has foward mounted shifter and short shift shaft with no intermediate shaft, extension housing is different to cater for this. Falcons all have rear mounted shifter and long shift shaft with no intermediate shaft. There are several ratio sets in falcons, from 2.54 first gear fitted to 351s, to 3.47 on xf type sixes. The highest torque rated box is the 351 at around 350lbsft. BW single rail. Valiant has 23 spline input shaft which is longer than the Falcon/Cortina box Valiant has different extension housing with different mounting and shifter to Ford types. P76 single rail is very similar to Valiant type, not seen many so couldn't say exactly what the differences are, if any. Repair kits should be the same, but you'd need to be a bit careful when its comes to extension housing output shaft seal. As far as I know all Valiants had same 2.84 first gear ratio gear-set. Falcons and Cortinas have quite a few gear-sets, I know of - 2.54 first gear (for 351s) also highest torque handing because of larger input gear. 2.84 first gear seen in Cortina six 3.06 first gear in 302s and six's until XE 3.54 first gear in later sixes. One extension housing in Falcon with corresponding shifter position. One extension housing in Cortinas with corresponding shifter position. This is what I was able to find off the net, and from books in the local library, for the 0503 :- Falcon XA & Leyland P76 2.78/1.93/1.36/1.00 Falcon XB & Charger E48 2.82/1.84/1.32/1.00 Falcon XC/XD/XE 3.06/1.84/1.32/1.00 Valiant VJ-CM 3.32/2.00/1.43/1.00 Falcon XE (4.1 carb only) 3.43/1.99/1.43/1.00 However, Ford used a 10-spline 1&1/16th" input shaft, but Chrysler and Leyland used a 23-spline 1&1/32nd" input shaft. Other XE Falcons got the "new" 0506 4-speed, or it's relative the 0507 5-speed. Single rails came in 4 variations depending what engine they were designed to be fitted behind. All are physically identical on the outside and are interchangable. To check which type you have, look at the small tag on the side of the box. 74DA 7003 A (up to 11/74) 74DA 7003 AB (11/74 onwards) 0503-006 (3.3/4.1) 0503-003 (4.9) 0503-009 (4.9) 1st-3.06 2nd-1.84 3rd-1.32 4th-1.00 74DA 7003 BA 0503-008 (5.8 inc GT) 1st-2.46 2nd-1.78 3rd-1.27 4th-1.00 https://www.boostcruising.com/advice/496483-Borg-Warner-Gearbox-0505.html Falcons XD-XF come out with borg warner 0501, 0503, 0506 and 0507, but 0505 is not mentioned. http://www.fordmods.com/ford-x-series-f29/mod-a-single-rail-5-speed-t56866.html

Your Falcon is stalling/dieing or sputtering when hot but runs when it cools off. This can be caused by a faulty TFI and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Problematic TFI's can give off codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT).o To start with, here are some links you may find helpful: TFI Worksheet (Strongly recommend you print this worksheet) TFI Remote Mounting Ford TFI Module Litigation Settlement Quick Checks Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) pertaining to the ignition system: TFI Stall NO Start - TFI Module Diagnosis and Sealing: This bulletin addresses loss of module ground due to salt and moisture entering a module mounting screw. TFI Engine NO Start/Stall at Idle - New Ignition Module: This TSB talks about an internal short-circuit in some model TFI modules. Driveability Concerns - Moist EEC-IV Connectors: This bulletin asks the tech to check for unsealed EEC-IV connectors and check for moisture or corrosion. Wiring: Always check your wiring. Here is a picture of SPOUT (Spark Output signal) wire that was grounding out. The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger. This is where the TFI Modile plugs in to the distributor to get the PIP signal. Notice the defective insulation. Heat Is Your Enemy!: The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted TFI. If your TFI is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT). General Information The TFI-IV distributor ignition system consists of the following components: Thick Film Ignition (TFI) modules Distributor Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor Ignition coil The distributor ignition system designed by Ford has two distinct configurations. The first configuration is known as the distributor mounted system, because the TFI is mounted directly on the distributor housing. The second configuration is known as a remote mount system, since the TFI is mounted on the engine or front fender apron. The distributor used by this system is sealed and houses the CMP sensor. The distributor does not utilize vacuum or centrifugal advance mechanisms; the ignition timing is automatically controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the TFI. Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby by creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module. System Operation The CMP sensor, housed inside the distributor, responds to a rotating metallic shutter mounted on the distributor shaft. This rotating shutter produces a digital Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) signal, which is used by the PCM and TFI to provide base timing information, determine engine speed (rpm) and crankshaft position. The distributor shaft rotates at one-half crankshaft speed, therefore the shutter rotates once for every two crankshaft revolutions. The TFI functions in either one of two modes: push start or Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD). The push start mode allows for increased dwell, or coil on time, when starting the engine. During this mode, the TFI determines when to turn on the ignition coil based on engine speed information. The coil is turned off, thereby firing, whenever a rising edge of a SPark OUTput (SPOUT) signal is received. The SPOUT signal is generated by the PCM, and provides spark timing information to the TFI. During the push start mode, the SPOUT signal only indicates the timing for coil firing; the falling edge of the SPOUT signal is ignored. Despite the name, the push start mode is also enabled during engine starting with the ignition key. Do not attempt to push start a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission. The rotary armature has open areas called windows and tabs called vanes The vane interrupts the magnetic field passing through the Hall effect device During the CCD mode, both edges of the SPOUT signal are utilized. The leading edge of the SPOUT signal is used by the ICM in the same manner as during the push start mode. The falling edge of the signal is generated to control the timing for turning the ignition coil on (the TFI no longer controls this function as during the push start mode). During the CCD mode, the coil on time, or dwell, is entirely controlled by the PCM through the SPOUT signal. In the event that the SPOUT signal from the PCM is disrupted, the TFI will use the PIP signal from the CMP to fire the ignition coil, which results in a fixed spark angle and dwell. Diagnosis & Testing Service Precautions Always turn the key OFF and isolate both ends of a circuit whenever testing for shorts or continuity. Never measure voltage or resistance directly at the processor connector. Always disconnect solenoids and switches from the harness before measuring for continuity, resistance or energizing by way of a 8-volt source. When disconnecting connectors, inspect for damaged or pushed-out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service if required. Preliminary Checks Visually inspect the engine compartment to ensure that all vacuum lines and spark plug wires are properly routed and securely connected. Examine all wiring harness and connectors for insulation damage, burned, overheated, loose or broken conditions. Ensure that the TFI is securely fastened to the front fender apron. Be certain that the battery is fully charged and that all accessories are OFF during the diagnosis. Test Procedures Perform the test procedures in the order in which they are presented here. Ignition Coil Secondary Voltage Test Coil Voltage Test #1 - Crank Mode 1 - Connect a spark tester between the ignition coil wire and a good engine ground. 2 - Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester. 3 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4 - If no spark occurs, check the following: a. Inspect the ignition coil for damage or carbon tracking. b. Check that the distributor shaft is rotating when the engine is being cranked. c. If the results in Steps a and b are okay, go to Test #4. 5 - If a spark did occur, check the distributor cap and rotor for damage or carbon tracking. Go to the Coil Voltage Test #2. Coil Voltage Test #2 - Run Mode 1 - Fully apply the parking brake. Place the gear shift lever in Neutral (manual transmission) or Park (automatic transmission). CAUTION - Failure to perform this step may result in the vehicle moving when the starter is subsequently engaged during the test. 2 - Disconnect the S terminal wire at the starter relay. Attach a remote starter switch. 3 - Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. 4 - Using the remote starter switch, crank the engine and check for spark. 5 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6 - If no spark occurred, the problem lies with the wiring harness. Inspect the wiring harness for short circuits, open circuits and other defects. Go to Test #3. 7 - If a spark did occur, the problem is not in the ignition system. Wiring Harness Test #3 - Voltage Check 1 - Separate wiring harness connector from ignition module. Inspect for dirt, corrosion and damage. NOTE: Push connector tabs to separate. 2 - Verify that the wire to the S terminal of starter relay is disconnected. 3 - Attach negative (-) VOM lead to distributor base. 4 - Measure battery voltage. 5 - Following the appropriate table below, measure connector terminal voltage by attaching VOM to small straight pin inserted into connector terminal and turning ignition switch to position shown. CAUTION - Do not allow straight pin to contact electrical ground. TFI Without CCD Connector Terminal Wire / Circuit Ignition Switch Test Position #3 Run Circuit Run and Start #4 Start Circuit Start TFI With CCD Connector Terminal Wire / Circuit Ignition Switch Test Position #3 Run Circuit Run and Start 6 - Turn ignition switch to Off position. 7 - Remove straight pin. 8 - Reconnect wire to S terminal of starter relay. 9 - Was the value at least 90 percent of battery voltage in each case? a. - If yes, replace TFI module. b. - If no then: 1 - Inspect for faults in wiring harness and connectors. 2 - Check for damaged or worn ignition switch. Distributor Hall Effect Test #4 1 - Place the transmission shift lever in the Park position (A/T) or Neutral (M/T) position and set the parking brake. CAUTION - Failure to perform this step may result in the vehicle moving when the starter is subsequently engaged during the test. 2 - Disconnect the harness connector from the TFI module and connect the TFI tester. 3 - Connect the red lead from the tester to the (+) positive side of the battery. 4 - Disconnect the wire at the S terminal of the starter relay and attach remote starter switch. 5 - Crank the engine using the remote starter switch and note the status of the two LED lamps. 6 - Remove the tester and remote starter switch. 7 - Reconnect the wire to the starter relay and the connector to the TFI. 8 - Did the PIP light blink? a. - If Yes, go to Test #6. b. - If No, remove distributor cap and verify rotation. If OK, go to Test #5. TFI Module Resistance Test #5 1 - Remove the TFI from the distributor or the front fender apron. 2 - Measure the resistance between the TFI terminals as shown below: a. - GND-PIP IN: should be greater than 60 ohms. b. - PIP PWR-PIP IN: should be less than 2,000 ohms. c. - PIP PWR-TFI PWR: should be less than 200 ohms. d. - GND-IGN GND: should be less than 2 ohms. e. - PIP IN-PIP: should be less than 200 ohms. 3 - If any of these checks failed, replace the TFI with a new one. TFI Module Test #6 1 - Use status of Tach light from Test #4. If Yes then go to Test #7. 2 - Did the Tach light blink? If No, replace TFI module and check for spark using the method described in Test #1. If spark was not present, replace the coil also. System Test #7 1 - Disconnect the pin-in-line connector near the TFI. 2 - Crank the engine 3 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4 - If a spark did occur, check the PIP and ignition ground wires for continuity. If okay, the problem is not in the ignition system. 5 - If no spark occurs, check the voltage at the positive (+) terminal of the ignition coil with the ignition switch in RUN. 6 - If the reading is not within battery voltage, check for a worn or damaged ignition switch. 7 - If the reading is within battery voltage, check for faults in the wiring between the coil and TFI module terminal No. 2 or any additional wiring or components connected to that circuit. Spark Timing Advance Test #8 Spark timing advance is controlled by the EEC system. This procedure checks the capability of the ignition module to receive the spark timing command from the EEC module. The use of a volt/ohmmeter is required. 1 - Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2 - Disconnect the pin-in-line connector (SPOUT connector) near the TFI module. 3 - Start the engine and measure the voltage, at idle, from the SPOUT connector to the distributor base. The reading should equal battery voltage. 4 - If the result is okay, the problem lies within the EEC-IV system. 5 - If the result was not satisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module. Check for damage, corrosion or dirt. Service as necessary. 6 - Measure the resistance between terminal No. 1 and the pin-in-line connector. This test is done at the ignition module connector only. The reading should be less than 1 ohms. 7 - If the reading is okay, replace the TFI module. 8 - If the result was not satisfactory, service the wiring between the pin inline connector and the TFI connector. Our Old Testing Procedure STEP 1 Determine if the engine is getting fuel. If injector is fueling chances are the TFI electronics are ok. If the electronics fail the fuel system shuts down except for about 20 seconds of start of cranking. If no fueling or if it quits after 20 seconds of cranking go to step 2. STEP 2 Check for spark at one of the spark plugs. If spark is found, you may have a fuel system problem. If spark is not found, check for spark at the coil wire. If you have spark, you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wires. If you still have no spark, unplug the harness at the TFI module. With key off, there should be no voltage present at any terminals of the harness. With key in the run position there should be voltage at the "TFI POWER RUN" and the "TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminals. Pull the small wire off the starter solenoid so engine will not crank. Have an assistant try to crank the engine. There should be voltage at "TFI POWER RUN, TFI POWER CRANK (START SIGNAL IN), and TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminals. If there is not voltages present, there is a possible wiring problem. If voltages are ok, go to step 3. STEP 3 With coil wire removed to watch for spark, place ignition key in the run position. Momentarily touch a jumper wire from "TACH IDM (COIL NEGATIVE)" terminal of the harness to a good ground. Spark should jump every time the jumper is grounded. Do not ground the jumper for more that a couple of seconds. If no spark is found, make sure that with the key in the run position there is voltage at one of the coil terminals. If voltage is present, the coil may be bad, go to step 4. If spark is found, the problem may be the TFI module or the PIP (profile ignition pickup or reluctor in the distributor) so go to step 5. STEP 4 We should now test the coil. Use an ohm meter and probe the resistance of the two small terminals, and you should find 0.3 to 1.0 ohm. If the resistance is not ok, it may be a bad coil. If the resistance is ok, probe one small terminal and the coil wire terminal. Resistance should be 8000 to 11,500 ohms. If the resistance is not ok, replace coil. If the resistance is ok, go to step 5. STEP 5 Testing the pickup coil (PIP) in the distributor is not an easy task, and best to test the TFI module first, then replace the pickup coil (PIP) if the TFI module tests ok. I have seen very few pickup coils on Ford TFI systems go bad. Test the TFI module according to the chart below. These values may be valid only on an OEM module, but may apply to aftermarket. TFI Terminals to jump Resistance (OHMS) HALL EFFECT GROUND HALL EFFECT POWER PIP PIP out 12.8K 1.2K 100 SPOUT in 17.4K 5.8K 4.7K START SIGNAL in 1000 12.6K 13.7K RUN POWER in 11.5K 100 1200 COIL NEGATIVE 4.2K 15.8K 16.9K IGNITION GROUND 0.0 11.6K 12.7K HALL EFFECT POWER 11.5K PIP 12.6K 1100 DISTRIBUTOR BASE 0.0K 12K 13.1K

The Italian made Weber 34adm Carburetor, was factory fitted to XE/XF Falcon 6cyl, Ford F100-350's and Ford Bronco 6cyl. It existed as factory fitment, from mid 1982, up till March 1993 - when the XF Falcon commercial range ended, and the XG Falcon was launched. The stock 34adm carby, has a flow rate of 230cfm. (see flow test pic, further down) For an easy upgrade, a 38/38 Weber carburetor has a 390cfm flow rate, and bolts directly to the stock intake manifold. The purpose of this thread, is to have Technical and Parts info for the Weber 34adm Carburetor, all in one location. I will edit and add to this first post, as I find further info. If anyone has any additional info on these carby's, they're most welcome to add it into the thread. Exploded_view_of_WEBER_34_ADM_0_USD.pdf List of parts: No Part No Price Pcs Description 1 31716.461 $ 0 1 Carb Top Cover 2 37022.004 $ 10.3 1 Filter element 3 64700.005 $ 0 6 Top Cover Fixing Screw 4 64010.034 $ 0 1 Choke throttle valve 5 64525.003 $ 0 2 Choke plate fixing screw 6 10015.274 $ 7.8 1 Choke shaft 7 10140.501 $ 1 1 Locking Ring 8 41565.008 $ 0.8 1 O ring 9 55510.034 $ 0.4 2 Lock Washer 10 64700.001 $ 5 2 Fixing Screw 11 52135.018 $ 3 1 Dust seal plate 12 61070.002 $ 3 1 Dust seal plug 13 57804.446 $ 0 1 Auto Choke Assy. Including 14 64560.004 $ 0 3 — Diaphragm cover fixing screw 15 64595.005 $ 5.8 1 — Diaphragm adjusting screw 16 32384.060 $ 0 1 — Diaphragm cover 17 47600.229 $ 0 1 — Diaphragm loading spring 18 47407.226 $ 0 1 — Choke diaphragm 19 47605.030 $ 0 1 - Return Spring 20 41640.052 $ 3 1 Auto Choke Body Gasket 21 57804.483 $ 0 1 Autochoke Thermostat 22 52135.029 $ 2.4 1 Choke Lock Ring 23 64615.004 $ 0 3 Screw 24 52570.006 $ 6.5 1 Idling jet holder 25 41565.002 $ 0.4 1 Idle jet holder O Ring seal 26 74403.060 $ 3 1 Secondary idle jet 27 64700.010 $ 0 2 Fixing Screw 28 55510.038 $ 0 2 Lock Washer 29 31800.027 $ 0 1 Capsula minimo accelerato 30 - $ 0 1 Carburetor Body 31 47600.007 $ 2.3 1 Idle Screw Spring 32 64625.012 $ 6.5 1 Throttle Adjustment Screw 33 64595.013 $ 0 1 Secondary throttle adjusting screw 34 67016.092 $ 0 1 Carburettor shaft base. including: 35 10000.264 $ 0 1 Primary Throttle Shaft 36 41575.010 $ 3.2 1 Bushing 37 10015.273 $ 0 1 Secondary Throttle Shaft 38 64005.113 $ 0 2 — Throttle valve 39 64520.027 $ 0.6 4 Throttle plate screw 40 45048.124 $ 0 1 Throttle control lever 41 64595.035 $ 0 1 Throttles adjusting screw 42 34715.014 $ 1 1 Throttle Spindle Nut 43 55520.002 $ 1 1 Shaft Lock Tab 44 12775.092 $ 0 1 Boccola guida leva allentata 45 45069.092 $ 0 1 Lever 46 47610.175 $ 0 1 Molla leva allentata 47 47610.091 $ 0 1 Choke lever return spring 48 55555.019 $ 0.9 1 Shaft Spacer 49 41575.010 $ 3.2 2 Bushing 50 64700.016 $ 0 2 Fixing Screw 51 55510.018 $ 0 2 Lock Washer 52 61075.013 $ 4 1 Idle mixture tamper proof plug 53 64750.080 $ 0 1 Idle Mixture Screw 54 41565.010 $ 0 1 Idle Mixture Screw O Ring 55 39152.015 $ 0 1 Base Spacer Heat Gasket 56 43914.060 $ 0 1 Idle Cut Off Solenoid 57 55530.020 $ 0 1 — Rosetta ondulata 58 74409.060 $ 3 1 — Idle jet 59 41535.024 $ 0 1 Guarnizione Intercettatore minimo 60 34710.003 $ 1 1 Throttle Shaft Nut 61 55520.004 $ 1 1 Throttle Shaft Lock Washer 62 14850.140 $ 0 1 Pump Cam 63 12750.103 $ 0 1 Boccola distanziale leva allentata 64 55530.014 $ 0 1 Rosetta ondulata leva allentata minimo accel. 65 45067.048 $ 0 1 Leva allentata comando mimmo accelerato 66 10140.304 $ 0 1 Anello elastico ritegno leva allentata 67 55510.081 $ 1.2 1 Washer For Shaft 68 55525.001 $ 0 1 Spring Washer 69 34705.001 $ 0.8 1 Secondary shaft fixing nut 70 47600.092 $ 0 1 Pump Spring 71 47407.146 $ 0 1 Pump diaphragm 72 32486.084 $ 0 1 Accelerator Pump Cover 73 64565.001 $ 0 2 Screw 74 64700.019 $ 0 2 Pump Cover Screw 75 34715.003 $ 0 1 Nut 76 32240.501 $ 0 1 Interruttore unipolare 77 14975.081 $ 0 1 Cavo unipolare 78 58510.008 $ 0 1 Staffa interruttore 79 47407.182 $ 0 1 Membrana valvola piena potenza 80 47600.005 $ 3.5 1 Starter Valve Spring 81 32384.046 $ 0 1 Coperchio valvola piena potenza 82 64565.001 $ 0 3 Screw 83 64565.001 $ 0 4 Screw 84 52000.015 $ 1.1 1 Float pivot 85 32484.044 $ 0 1 Coperchio pompa pneumatica 86 47600.279 $ 0 1 Spring For Diaphragm 87 47407.163 $ 0 1 Membrana pompa pneumatica 88 73801.210 $ 3.7 1 Main jet 88 73801.140 $ 3 1 Main jet 89 61440.220 $ 9 1 Primary Emulsion Tube 89 61440.491 $ 0 1 Secondary Emulsion Tube 90 77201.160 $ 3 1 Secondary air correction jet 90 77201.170 $ 3 1 Primary Air Corrector Jet 91 76407.060 $ 13 1 Pump jet 92 41565.001 $ 0 1 Pump Jet ´O´ Ring 93 41565.008 $ 0.8 1 O ring 94 61075.002 $ 0 1 Tappo coperchio sgolfatore 95 70508.450 $ 0 1 Auxiliary Venturi Secondary 95 70508.450 $ 0 1 Auxiliary Venturi Primary 96 41705.072 $ 0 1 Top Cover Gasket 97 41015.004 $ 33.2 1 Float 98 79510.175 $ 0 1 Needle & Seat 99 83102.070 $ 1 1 Gasket for Needle Valve 100 43921.100 $ 0 1 Intercettatore ricircolo completo di: 101 55530.016 $ 0 1 — Wavy Washer 102 58000.019 $ 0 1 — Cup Washer 103 41565.001 $ 0 1 — Idle jet holder O Ring seal 104 74409.100 $ 3 1 — Idle jet 105 61002.019 $ 0 1 Fuel Filter Cover 1. Throttle nudger: On the XE/XF Falcons this is used to hold the throttle open slightly during an overrun condition by applying vacuum at the hose fitting. The screw in the top sets how much the throttle is held open. 2. Accelerator pump accumulator: Receives the fuel charge from the accelerator pump and controls the discharge rate of the fuel into the air stream. 3. Fuel inlet fitting. 4. Fuel filter plug. There is a small plastic filter under this plug. 5. Fuel return. On some models this is used to return fuel to the fuel tank when item 6 (below) is fitted. 6. Fuel return solenoid fitting. On some models there is a solenoid screwed into this fitting that energises when the throttle is closed, allowing fuel to return to the tank when at idle. 7. Idle solenoid. Allows fuel to flow in the idle circuit when this solenoid is energised. +12 Volts must be applied to this solenoid when the ignition is switched on. 8. Power bypass circuit actuator diaphragm. Allows fuel to flow in the power bypass circuit when low manifold vacuum is sensed. 9. Accelerator pump lever. 10. Electric automatic choke mechanism. Under the green plastic cover there is a heater element and a bi-metallic spring. +12 Volts is applied to the threaded stud in the centre when the ignition is on. The heater element heats up and in time, causes the bi-metallic spring to rotate the choke shaft, causing the choke to open. Loosening the three screws allows the cover to rotate, to adjust the choke to the correct fully open position after warm-up. 11. Fast idle screw. Adjusts the fast idle speed. Operates whenever the choke is partially closed. There are several steps of fast idle due to the operation of a stepped cam inside the choke mechanism. Adjustment should be made for fast idle on the first step after a cold start. Do not use this screw to adjust the normal idle speed. 12. Choke pull-off diaphragm. Cracks the choke open slightly as soon as the engine starts. Under the small brass plug at the centre there is a grub screw that adjusts how much the choke is cracked open. 13. Accelerator pump. Pumps fuel into the air stream, via the accelerator pump accumulator, during hard acceleration. 14. Idle speed screw. Adjusts the idle speed. To be adjusted only after the engine has reached operating temperature, and the choke is fully open. 15. Vacuum advance connection. Connects to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm. 16. Idle mixture screw. Adjusts the idle fuel/air mixture. Stock jetting for 3.3l and 4.1l Crossflow Weber 34adm carburettor- First stage Idle: 60 Second stage Idle: 70 Primary Fuel: 135 Secondary Fuel: 210 Primary Air: 160 Secondary Air: 160 The following jetting, apparently gives excellent throttle response, very smooth idling and excellent pickup on secondaries - (stock 3.3l Crossflow Motor) Primary Idle: 65 Secondary Idle: 75 Primary Fuel: 140 Secondary Fuel: 220 Primary Air: 160 Secondary Air: 180 There are five springs in total fitted in this carb. By process of elimination you can work out several of them but some are interchangable and if fitted incorrectly will cause mixture problems. So keep the springs with their correct counterpart. Shown are the vacuum passages to the power valve diaphragm and the boost accelerator pump. When vacuum drops to a pre-determined level the power valve diaphragm is pushed into the power jet which opens the ball to allow more fuel into the main circuit. Also the loss of vacuum applies an extra amount of fuel to the accelerator pump circuit over and above what the accelerator pump diaphragm will deliver. This will usually occur when the second barrel is opened suddenly. The different spring length & tension will operate these devices at differing vacuum settings. The vacuum to the power valve & accelerator pump boost diaphragms is supplied through this tube. The vacuum port continues down through to the base of the carb between the primary and secondary bores. The tube also acts as a location dowel. It is long enough to pass through the thick gasket and into the base. Now what can happen is that if you don't line up the dowel perfectly to the base and you attempt to tighten the base screws then the tube can be pushed further into its bore in the body of the carb. The end result is a blocked vacuum passage. This will result in a rich cruise mixer and a hesitation when the second barrel opens suddenly. To check that the passage is unobstructed, place you mouth on the tube and suck or attach a tight hose and suck on it. It should feel easy to suck through. If not then this is what needs to be done. Remove the tube and the easiest way to do this is to stick a drill into the tube, then use a small pair of vice grips to grip it and twist it out. Cut a slot into the tube and then refit it back into the hole. Make sure the slot lines up with the vacuum passage and the tube protrudes through the thick gasket so it can line up with the base. The slot does not have to be as long as in the photo. If the tube is fitted at the correct depth, this mod would be unnecessary. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/FORD-FALCON-WEBER-34-ADM-SERVICE-KIT/264174927546?epid=2102017418&hash=item3d820d7eba:g:kYYAAOSwFV9X1ukr https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WEBER-34-ADM-CARBURETTOR-SERVICE-KIT-FORD-FALCON-3-3-4-1/201732658915?hash=item2ef83416e3:g:RbgAAOSwa~BYPWPJ https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/W552.1 https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/W552 Flow testing a stock 34adm carburettor

The goal of this thread, is comparison.............. clean or dirty, lowered or standard, lets see how people have got their x-series set up. Take some pics similar to mine below, that show the following - front tyre to guard clearance bump stop clearance ball joint angles upper/lower control arm angles swaybar link angle front camber/caster, etc. Here's mine. Specs are as follows - Vehicle - 1995 XG ute Shocks - Koni 82-1742SP4 (short body reds) Springs - Kings Springs KFFL59 (powdercoated black by Kings) Tyres - 225/50R/16

The VIN on the engine or car will be 6 characters long, for example, JG63UM or AL1JYM. These are decoded as follows; First character = Product source. A = USA, C = UK, J = Australia and S and U = Japan. Second character = Assembly plant. G = Broadmeadows - (Passenger), L = Broadmeadows – (Truck), H = Brisbane and K = Sydney 3rd & 4th characters = Body Series See below 5th & 6th characters = year and month of production respectively Therefore; A = USA source L = Assembled at Broadmeadows Truck plant 1J = F100 4x2 Y = 1981 M = March F-Series Body Codes 1J = F100 4x2 4K = F100 4x4 1T = F100 Bronco 2J = F250 3J = F350 5K = F350 4x4 4J = F500 6J = F600 1K = F700 2K = F750 3K = F800 and F8000 Now onto the engines. The engine codes for the F series trucks are unique and not linked to the passenger vehicles and are also relevant to the years of manufacture. Therefore, for the following years, the codes apply as follows; 1970 Engine D = 4.0 litre (240 CID petrol 6 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) T = 5.4 litre (330 CID petrol 8 cylinder) Transmission 4 = 4 speed 5 = 5 speed 1971 Same as above except for; Transmission 3 = 3 speed column shift B = 3 speed floor shift automatic 1972 Same as above 1973 Engine D = 4.0 litre (240 CID petrol 6 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Transmission 4 = 4 speed B = 3 speed floor shift automatic 1974 (US Drive line) Engine L = 4.0 litre (240 CID petrol 6 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift B = 3 speed floor shift automatic 1974 (Local Drive line) Engine L = 4.0 litre (250 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Y = 4.9 litre (302 CID petrol 8 cylinder) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed automatic 1975 Same as above except for; Engine E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) 1976 Engine L = 4.0 litre (250 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Y = 4.9 litre (302 CID petrol 8 cylinder) E = 4.9 litre (300 CID petrol 6 cylinder) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed automatic 1977 Same as above except for the 300 CID engine is no longer available 1978 Engine B = 5.8 litre (Pre-ADR 36) C = 5.8 litre (Post ADR 36) Y = 4.9 litre (2 wheel drive only) X = 4.9 litre (4 wheel drive only) L = 4.1 litre (Pre-ADR 36) H = 4.1 litre (Post ADR 36) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed Cruisomatic column shift 1979 & 1980 Same as above 1981 and onwards Engine W = 4.1 litre 6 cylinder C = 5.8 litre 8 cylinder (carburetor version) T = 5.0 litre (fuel injected) Transmission L = 4 speed manual floor shift R = 3 speed Cruisomatic column shift Now back to the model code. I will start with the easy ones first being the 1978 to 1981 F series trucks. As shown above, the ute in question had a model code of 62112 and it is this number that can be used in conjunction with the following code breaker to find out what you have. Model Digits 1 & 2 = Product line (more on this later!) Digit 3 = Year of manufacture (actually applies to all F series trucks) Digit 4 = Body style 1 – F100 Chassis Cab 2 – F100/250 Style Side Body 3 – F100 Ambulance and F350 Chassis cab Digit 5 = Series 1 – F100 Short Wheel Base 2 – F100 Long Wheel Base of F250 3 – F350 Short Wheel Base 4 – F350 Long Wheel Base So from the above model code of 62112, this equates to; F100 S-Cab, 1981 build year, F100 Chassis Cab, F100 Long Wheel Base of F250. Now onto the pre 1978 model codes. According to the book, there are heaps of model codes, especially so for the years of 1970 through to 1972 as the codes covered the F100 all the way up to the F700. Therefore, I am only going to cover a year that is more applicable, namely 1976. 62611 – F100A C.Cab 2972 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62612 – F100A S.Cab 3379 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62621 – F100A S.Box 2972 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62622 – F100A S.Box 3379 mm W/B 2586 kg GVM 62632 – F100A Ambulance 3379 mm W/B 2717 kg GVM 74611 – F250A 2WD C.Cab 3379 mm W/B 3448 kg GVM 74612 – F250A 2WD S.Box 3379 mm W/B 3448 kg GVM 73613 – F250A 4WD C.Cab 3379 mm W/B 3493 kg GVM 73614 – F250A 4WD S.Box 3379 mm W/B 3493 kg GVM 74631 – F350A C.Cab 3480 mm W/B 4536 kg GVM 74632 – F350A C.Cab 4089 mm W/B 4536 kg GVM As you can see, the two first numbers (Product Line) change according to the type of vehicle required. (info, courtesy of 'Paull', from Ford Australia Forums)

Mainly US and EU spec's I believe, but some may apply to Australian Vehicles? https://www.oilspecifications.org/ford.php?fbclid=IwAR2oDSFk-zD91i47yM0ygo7nm1xE22BZU9t7l63wBeXTHVlqr0Zoc5Oi3hk

XH utes got given a domed roof, to increase vehicle head-room inside the cab. I believe there is a difference.

Just a quick bump to THIS thread... For anyone wanting the Crossflow 1-3/4 welsh plugs - Premier Engine Components (Nasons), makes a full (Australian Made) brass welsh plug kit with x5 1-3/4 plus x2 2-1/16 and x1 tiny 7/16 plug - part no. WPEK971 OR they also have the 1-3/4 cup welsh plugs by the bag of x10 - part no. BC1034 (brass), PMSC1034 (steel), SSC1034 (stainless steel) https://premiermachinery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/premier-welch-plugs.pdf Precision Engine Parts sells brass welsh plugs individually, but not sure on the brand. Part numbers as follows - 7/16 - CP0010 1-1/2 - CP0250 1-3/4 - CP0320 2-1/16 - CP0450 https://precisionintl.com/v/ford-australia-falcon-xf-4-1-1986-1993-petrol-ute/c/100000-standard/106000-cooling-fuel-oil-systems/106169-core-plugs Merry Christmas.

You begin the spark early - BTDC (before top dead center). How early is based on fuel type (petrol/LPG flame propagation time) engine rpm, combustion chamber and piston design. So we light the fuse early, the flame spreads for a while, and by the time peak cylinder pressure occurs, your crank is around 12 ATDC (after top dead center). If peak pressure occurred any earlier than that, it would be like a sledgehammer driving the rod into the crank straight down. By peaking after TDC, the rod acts like a lever instead of a railroad spike.

From memory, those E-series under-bonnet relays are used even on B-series and FG's etc. Good work, isolating the problem. Easy fixes are always the best!

Could always be dodgy relay contacts? See if you can track down, where the noise is coming from. Yes it's Ford specific, and not available aftermarket, that I've ever seen.

It's an auto-reset circuit breaker - usually a 30A rating. Uncommon, but they CAN get corrosion internally, which trips the circuit when it shouldn't.

I stumbled upon an old Brake Booster rebuild tutorial thread, over on the Ford Australia Forums, and thought it well worthy of adding to our Archives... Here's a summary of the rubber components (with pricing), used in the below rebuild - VH2013 - Reaction Disc - $6.60 VH2015 - Front Seal - $5.41 VH2029 - Rear Seal - $26.40 VH2579 - Main Diaphragm - $31.33 VH2580 - Main Diaphragm - $39.60 VH2581 - Seal - $21.12 VH2582 - Seal - The complete XC/XD/XE brake booster assembly part no. is/was VH395 For further info, see the following link to another excellent rebuild tutorial we have, created by fellow OzFalcon member 'jca4'. Full credit for the following write-up, goes to Wayne (aka XC GXL on Ford Forums). _______________________________________________________________________________________________ Some of us live overseas with these beauties and when something goes wrong we either have to spend a truck load on postage (and sometimes extra TAX) or we improvise with what is available to get our cars back on the road. Well I had a brake booster failure a little while back and fortunately I had a decent spare however I looked into getting a spare sent over and the cost of a reconditioned one including postage was frightening. I was fortunate enough to meet a bloke in Wollongong before I left in the brake and clutch business as I got some bits and pieces for the XC before I left home. When the booster failed I rang him and he was kind enough to send me over all of the major parts to recondition an XC/XD/XE brake booster. Here is an exploded view showing the parts I replaced. and here are a few photos of the replacement parts I decided to try to tackle a rebuild although I have never done so before and was a little daunted by it initially like how to spilt it, replacing diaphragms etc, etc. Well I managed to overhaul 3 that I had which were knackered with success. So for all of you guys living overseas and those of you who want to overhaul your own booster this is how I did it. Firstly I made up a jig to enable me to split the booster as the top section needs to be twisted from the lower section and can take a bit of force. The jig looks a little Heath Robinson but it worked a treat for me. Once the top is split the M20 rod, which incidentally is 500mm long with a 13mm hole 70mm deep drilled into each end to enable the plate to not foul with the Rod and Valve Assy (Part no 2377), is wound back to enable the spring to be detensioned safely. This part is really necessary during reassembly as trying to hold the spring down while trying to locate the top to the bottom is difficult. Remove the Rod and Valve Assy (2377). This is the one from a 38 year old car and needs a good clean. This is from a 38 year old XC and was a little worse for wear. I only used WD40 and wire wool to clean all these parts. Disassembled. All that is needed for this is a strip down, clean and reassemble. Make sure that the little piston is removed and cleaned and the reaction disc (Part No 2414 from drawing and replacement part no VH2013) replaced and that the piston is free to move. Once this is split the main diaphragm assembly can be removed from the housings. Again this takes a bit of force as the whole assembly needs to be pushed from the lower seal. This is how they look once removed. Any wonder the brakes were a little odd! To remove the pedal to booster assemble simply remove the circlip and the whole rod pushes out. To remove the diaphragms you will need a small flat blunt screwdriver as the diaphragms are sandwiched between the Valve Body (Part No 2391) and the Diaphragm Plates (Part No’s 2395A, 2395B and 2395C). Take note of the disassemble sequence although the assembly can only go one way when reassembling. here is the assembly without the diaphragms Remove the rear seal from the main housing. This is not shown clearly on the Ford exploded view but is replacement part No VH2029. I then cleaned the whole lot up with wire wool, soapy water and some fine wet and dry. Replace all the diaphragms (replacement part No’s 2A365B = 2579 and 2A365A = 2588). This requires a little silicone grease around the inner lip of the diaphragm and then just force (using hands only) the diaphragm between the diaphragm plate and the Valve Body. It takes some effort but goes eventually. Do this for both Diapragms. Make sure that the diaphragm 2A365B (2579) is pushed up around the outer lip on 2395B as this allows the vacuum to be formed when in use. This is a final assembled unit. Also when the whole assembly is put back into the main housing make sure that the top diaphragms 2A365A is (2588) outer edge is below the retaining indents to enable a seal between the housing and the diaphragm plate 2395B. I then just put the whole part assembly back into the jig compressed the top housing and spring and then tapped the top cover around using a soft hammer and the plate that I made to go over the master cylinder mounting studs. I managed to do one in about 1 hour including cleaning. It is a pretty simple job really if you have the right set up. If there is anything I didn't describe well please let me know and I'll only be too happy to help where I can. Wayne

Here's some more JEEP info for you - the 80's/90's glovebox locks, are the same as XD-XH, except colour-coded to the Jeep interiors.

This list may be helpful for some, to achieve an accurate Speedometer, vs chosen diff ratio and wheel/tyre size. Diff ---- Trans -- Rim -- Drive Gear --- Teeth -- Color --- Driven Gear -- Teeth -- Color 3.23 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.23 -- Manual -- All -- XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.08 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-C -- 20 LH -- Brown 3.27 -- Manual -- All -- XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.27 -- 4 Auto --- All -- XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-D -- 21 LH -- Light Green 3.45 -- Manual -- 15" - XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-E -- 22 LH -- Grey 3.45 -- 4 Auto --- 15" - XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-E -- 22 LH -- Grey 3.45 -- Manual -- 16" - XAP-17285-A -- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-F -- 23 LH -- Black 3.45 -- 4 Auto --- 16" - XA-17285-C --- 8LH -- Yellow -- XE-17271-F -- 23 LH -- Black 2.77 - Auto/Man - All ------------------------ 8LH - Yellow ----- XE-17271A - 19LH --- Purple 2.92 - Auto/Man - All ------------------------ 8LH - Yellow ----- XE-17271B - 19LH --- Pink http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=30 Purple 19 XE17271A Pink 19 XE17271B Brown 20 XE17271C Light Green 21 XE17271D Grey 22 XE17271E Black 23 XE17271F

Re-ordered for clarity - SPOT BEAM comparison

Re-ordered for Clarity - HIGH BEAM comparison

Re-ordered for clarity - LOW BEAM comparison

The aftermarket ones look like they're not stamped correctly -

In my experience, the aftermarket spring coils are often cut a bit short - ie, they don't leave a small straight section of coil, to match up to the saddle tab - as the factory springs do. Some coil spring brands, are worse than others. There's also a difference, between the Australian OEM style spring saddle tabs, (separate spot-welded tab) and the USA Mustang style saddle tabs (integral with saddle tab) 99% of the aftermarket Falcon spring saddles, are the Mustang type - as per yours.

The spring coil, doesn't have the correct end cut, for Falcon spring saddles - see how it's missed the saddle stop tab? That is a problem.

Fun fact - XD headlights were made by Bosch aftermarket lenses made by SAP XE headlights were made by Hella aftermarket lights AND lenses, made by SAP and TYC XF/XG headlights were made by Lucas aftermarket lenses made by SAP, TYC and DEPO/Lucid aftermarket lights made by TYC and DEPO/Lucid

I'd like to know where all the new genuine XF and XG headlights went? Even back around 2005's, it was impossible to find new XG headlights. I found one ONCE, but silly me didn't purchase it, as only one side. The XF and XG headlights, did have different part numbers - XF Assembly RH - XFN13005B LH - XFN13006B XG Assembly RH - EDC13005A LH - EDC13006A XF/XG lense - RH - XFN13011C LH - XFN13011D XF/XG reflector - RH - XF13118A LH - XF13119A XF housing RH - XF13H008A LH - XF13H009A XG housing RH - EDC13H008A LH - EDC13H009A

Yes, I put an inline filter sock and removed the thermostat, prior to filling with the Evaporust stuff. I used a Tefba filter unit, which has a magnet in it also. I improved the stock included metal filter, by covering it in some stocking type filter material. I was amazed at the sheer volume of rust flakes and stuff caught by the filter. 10,000km later, I was still cleaning it out every week or so. The cleaning intervals get longer, but wow it grabs alot of stuff. Neglected cooling systems are the WORST! edit - I have power-flushed (incl reverse flush) (with a jet nozzle on the hose) blocked falcon heater cores directly, with great success. Falcon/Commodore ones are all brass/copper, but many imported and/or JDM vehicles have plastic end-tank heater cores - which I've had split once RANDOMLY (likely from steam pocket).

One way to GENTLY clean out cooling system corrosion such as the above, is to use some Evaporust cooling system flush. I have used it, and it works very well. You fill the entire cooling system with it, as you would a normal coolant, then run the vehicle through a few heat cycles over a week or so, depending on the corrosion level. There were some new old Stock Thermostat housings on ebay a while ago. If not, I may be able to get you a NOS one, and/or a near perfect condition second hand one, if you can't afford new. I see the lower radiator hose and water pump heater hose, have the factory Utilux clamps still. Very cool! The factory Crossflow 76DA water pumps have cast iron impellers, whereas the only aftermarket options (GMB or Gates), have stamped steel impellers which IMO are not as good. If your water pump is a factory NON-aircon type (metal fan), I may be able to find you a NOS genuine ford one of those too, maybe.... Only if yours is no good. edit - here is an old-stock (OEM Ford supplier but Repco boxed) water pump with the die-cast housing, and cast iron impeller - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-REPCO-Water-Pump-Ford-Falcon-200-250-6-Cylinder-Cortina-New-XC-XD-WP1805/233853940296 and an extremely overpriced thermostat housing - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XC-XD-XE-XF-FALCON-TE-TF-MK4-MK5-CORTINA-GEN-FORD-NOS-6-CYL-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING/323710063630