SPArKy_Dave

XG front discs have larger bearings I believe, plus the larger diameter hub, same as XG rear The XB spindles may be smaller diameter too, I believe? 10's fit on the coupes, but I don't think they fit on any others without quarter panel modification

New, reproduction speedo sender gears are available I believe? I know the brown 20tooth gear, suits 3.27 diff, with 15inch wheels 205/65/15 tyres, or 16 inch wheels with 225/50/16 tyres

Please excuse the fragmented nature, of the below info... I progressively update this post with copy/paste info, as I find it across the net. (latest updates - 09/03/20, 24/08/20, 05/04/21, 09/04/22, 17/04/25, 20/04/25 and 21/04/25) _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ https://www.hemiperformance.com.au/shop/shop-by-category/transmission/manual-4-speed.html BW gearbox prefix numbers - 0501 0503 - Borg Warner 4spd single rail - Ford Falcon, Valiant, Leyland P76? 0505 0506 - Borg Warner 5spd single rail with modified shifter to make it 4spd - 3.3ltr crossflow? 0507 - Borg Warner 5spd single rail - 3.3ltr crossflow - XE onward, and Mitsubishi Sigma XB 5.8 incl 351 GT with 2v heads had BW 0503-003 XB 4.1/4.9 has BW 0503-006 XC/XD 5.8 - 0503-008. XC/XD 4.1/4.9 - BW 0503-009 Late XD and possibly early XE (1981 onwards) 3.3/4.1/4.9 had 0503-016 (78DA-7003-AB) 0503-003 - 74DA-7003-AA - XB 4.1/4.9L, up to 11/74 - 1st 2.82, 2nd 1.84, 3rd 1.32, 4th 1.00 0503-006 - 74DA-7003-AB - XB 4.1/4.9L, from 11/74 - 1st 3.06 - unsure on other ratio's yet 0503-008 - 74DA-7003-BA - XB 5.8L incl GT - 1st 2.46, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.27, 4th 1.00 0503-009 - 76DA-7003-AA - XC 4.1/4.9L - 1st 3.06, 2nd 1.84, 3rd 1.32, 4th 1.00 0503-014 - 78DA-7003-CB - XD 3.3/4.1L? 0503-015 - 82DA-7003-AA - XE 4.1L 0503-016 - 78DA-7003-AB - XD 4.1/4.9L 0503-018 - 78DA-7003-CC - XD 8cylinder 0503-038 - 84DA-7003-BA - XF 6cylinder 0503-039 - 83DA-7003-BA - XE 6cylinder Ford never published the codes for XE and XF but the 1st gear ratios are XD and XE 3.3/4.1 and early XE 4.9 used 3.06:1 1st gear, 1.84:1 2nd gear ratio's XE 3.3/4.1 all, and post 05/82 4.9 used an XC 3rd gear ratio XD and XE 5.8 used 2.46:1 1st and 1.78:1 2nd gear and 1.27:1 3rd gear ratio's, same as XB 5.8 XD carby and XE EFI used the XB 4.9 3.06:1 1st gear ratio, 1.84:1 2nd and 1.82:1 3rd gear ratio's XE carby used a 3.43:1 1st gear ratio XE 3.3 4spd and 5spd used a 3.50:1 1st gear ratio XE 6 cyl. carb 3.43 XE efi & 302 3.06 XE 351 2.46 XF efi 3.40 XF carb 3.50 Internal to the gearbox, (opposite end to the clutch spline) - XE 4.1L factory carburetor Single Rails have a 20 spline input shaft XE 4.1L factory fuel injected Single Rails have a 21 spline input shaft XF 4.1L (carb and EFI) Single Rails have a 19 spline input shaft, up to 10/86 build vehicles XF 4.1L (carb and EFI) 10/86 onwards, had 21 spline input shafts Other numbers XB Single Rail - 74DA-7003-AB 0503 006 3192 0503-006-3013 XD Single Rail? 78DA-7003-CB 0503-014 (8096) xd/e/f 0503 carby 1st-3.43 2nd-1.99 3rd-1.43 4th-1.00 rev-3.29 0503 efi 1st-3.50 2nd-1.99 3rd-1.32 4th-1.00 rev-3.47 0506 1st-3.47 2nd-1.96 3rd-1.26 4th-1.00 rev-3.37 0507 5speed 1st-3.47 2nd-1.96 3rd-1.26 4th-1.00 5th-0.79 rev-3.37 xa/b/c 0503-009 (4.1/4.9) 1st-3.06 2nd-1.84 3rd-1.32 4th-1.00 0503-008 (5.8) 1st-2.46 2nd-1.78 3rd-1.27 4th-1.00 A 250 or 302 single rail is rated to 285lb/ft, similar to a stock T5. A 351 single rail is rated to 325lb/ft which is the same as a Z-type T5. A std. wide ratio Toploader is rated at 375lb/ft and a bull nose 425lb/ft. BW single rail differences. All have same mounting flange, which is the same as the 3 speed box except for one bolt. Valiant has longer, finer input shaft, same output I think. Valiant has a short shifter shaft with a dogleg intermediate rod to clear the Valiant crossmember. Valiant has 2.84 first gear, so does cortina. Cortina has foward mounted shifter and short shift shaft with no intermediate shaft, extension housing is different to cater for this. Falcons all have rear mounted shifter and long shift shaft with no intermediate shaft. There are several ratio sets in falcons, from 2.54 first gear fitted to 351s, to 3.47 on xf type sixes. The highest torque rated box is the 351 at around 350lbsft. BW single rail. Valiant has 23 spline input shaft which is longer than the Falcon/Cortina box Valiant has different extension housing with different mounting and shifter to Ford types. P76 single rail is very similar to Valiant type, not seen many so couldn't say exactly what the differences are, if any. Repair kits should be the same, but you'd need to be a bit careful when its comes to extension housing output shaft seal. As far as I know all Valiants had same 2.84 first gear ratio gear-set. Falcons and Cortinas have quite a few gear-sets, I know of - 2.54 first gear (for 351s) also highest torque handing because of larger input gear. 2.84 first gear seen in Cortina six 3.06 first gear in 302s and six's until XE 3.54 first gear in later sixes. One extension housing in Falcon with corresponding shifter position. One extension housing in Cortinas with corresponding shifter position. This is what I was able to find off the net, and from books in the local library, for the 0503 :- Falcon XA & Leyland P76 2.78/1.93/1.36/1.00 Falcon XB & Charger E48 2.82/1.84/1.32/1.00 Falcon XC/XD/XE 3.06/1.84/1.32/1.00 Valiant VJ-CM 3.32/2.00/1.43/1.00 Falcon XE (4.1 carb only) 3.43/1.99/1.43/1.00 However, Ford used a 10-spline 1&1/16th" input shaft, but Chrysler and Leyland used a 23-spline 1&1/32nd" input shaft. Other XE Falcons got the "new" 0506 4-speed, or it's relative the 0507 5-speed. Single rails came in 4 variations depending what engine they were designed to be fitted behind. All are physically identical on the outside and are interchangable. To check which type you have, look at the small tag on the side of the box. 74DA 7003 AA (up to 11/74) 74DA 7003 AB (11/74 onwards) 0503-006 (3.3/4.1) 0503-003 (4.9) 0503-009 (4.9) 1st-3.06 2nd-1.84 3rd-1.32 4th-1.00 74DA 7003 BA 0503-008 (5.8 inc GT) 1st-2.46 2nd-1.78 3rd-1.27 4th-1.00 https://www.boostcruising.com/advice/496483-Borg-Warner-Gearbox-0505.html Falcons XD-XF come out with borg warner 0501, 0503, 0506 and 0507, but 0505 is not mentioned. http://www.fordmods.com/ford-x-series-f29/mod-a-single-rail-5-speed-t56866.html

A 78DA-7003-AB gearbox, is from an 81' onwards XD They were used in either 3.3/4.1 or 4.9 XD's, possibly very early XE's. Shorter ratio gearbox, I believe

Looking at the Exedy website, all the single rails (even 3speed) are 10 spline on the clutch friction plate 3speeds just have a smaller diameter shaft at 24mm, over 27.5mm The info regarding 19/20/21/22 splines, relates to the opposite end of the input shaft, internal to the gearbox? First screenshot is all XD, and XE up to 05/82 Second screenshot is XE only, from 05/82

The following is a list of settings that can be altered, to suit personal preference - Personalisation Settings: Taxi Mode: Disabled: Means car is in normal mode. Door locks operate in a standard manner either 2 stage unlock or 1 stage unlock. Enabled: Car is in taxi mode. Remote key operates in a normal manner,but operation of central door lock(CDL) switch on the ICC is different. If any door is unlocked when the ICC CDL button is pressed the passenger doors will unlock (drivers door will remain locked) Panic Alarm Inhibit: Disabled: Allows operation of hazards,horn warning and courtesy lamps as a result of pressing of panic alarm button on remote key pad. Enabled: Disables operation of panic alarm. If this bit is set and panic alarm button is pressed on remote key pad nothing will happen. Door Trigger Disable Mode: Disabled: Means dome lamp operation will be triggered by opening and closing of doors. Enabled: Opening and closing the doors will not effect state of dome lamps ie.Opening a door will not turn on dome lamps, and closing a door will not turn off dome lamps. Also key out/dome on function will not operate. There is still control of dome lamps by operation of the ICC button, and operation of remote key. This bit can be set and reset by either using the WDS or alternatively pressing and holding the dome lamp button on for 5 seconds. Master Door Trigger Disable Mode: Disabled: Allows door trigger disable mode to be invoked by pressing and holding of ICC CDL switch. Enabled: Does not allow door trigger disable mode to be turned on or off by pressing and holding ICC CDL switch. Hazard Warning Inhibit: Disabled: BEM will operate the hazard lamps when any remote key is pressed and for key in lock warning. Ie unlock,panic,lock,remote boot release. Enabled: BEM will not operate the hazard lamps if any of the remote key buttons are pressed. Horn Warning Inhibit: Disabled: BEM will operate the horn in the event that the remote lock button is pressed twice within 3 seconds, or if the remote lock button is pressed when a transponder is still in the ignition. Enabled: BEM will not operate the horn under conditions described above. Battery Saver Inhibit: Disabled: Enables battery saver supply to operate as per normal operation. Enabled: Disables battery saver control by BEM when ignition is off. Remote key operation will not activate courtesy lamps. Door opening and closing will not activate dome lamps with ignition off bacause battery saver is not active when ignition is off. Battery saver will still be active when ignition is in the Accessories or Ignition on positions. Courtesy Lamp Inhibit: Disabled: Enables courtesy lamp output driver, such that courtesy lamps operate as per normal operation. Enabled: Disables courtesy lamp output driver. Courtesy lamps will never operate.

Did you unbolt the steering column, to remove the cluster? To me, it's all voltage and/or earth related Focus on the ignition switch Does it have an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser?

From memory, that's been for sale for a few yrs now Earlier factory NON aircon XF's, didn't get the deflectors, or that rubber strip plus smaller radiator, and top metal fan shroud I think later on, all XF's got the side deflector plastics and bigger radiator, but still no rubber strip. (aka, my 92' XF ute for ref, which has aftermarket aircon) I see replacement door rubber seals fitted, non original spark plug leads, bonnet strut fitted upside down, wrong battery cables, along with painted over windscreen wiper bolt heads, and painted over spring clamps for the windscreen washer jet hose.

Is it maybe a really high rpm stall converter? Lack of 3rd, could be a sticking actuator in the valve body, or a sticking governor in the extension housing. Can you monitor line pressures, whilst driving it?

I'd check for bent conrods, using a straw, plastic stick or similar, down the spark plug holes.

Shims usually live behind the upper arm front mount I thought, used to increase caster, by pushing the top pivot point back? The upper arm clamp, should self center on the ball joint recess, when fully tightened? And yeah, lower ball joint wear caused excess toe/camber on my BF. It had been previously aligned to compensate, but when I fitted new ball joints, I didn't think to re-adjust. Note - After not adjusting the alignment, it wore the front tyres, within around 15,000km's. When later fitting new tyres, I located whiteout marks for the factory toe settings, and set to those points. Further confirmed, with a DIY string/tape measure arrangement.

That's it yes! The loose threaded bracket, sits against the tyre, with the threaded end in the slotted hole of that welded bracket. The wingnut winds on the thread upside down, so it tightens backwards against the outside of that welded bracket, thus pushing the loose threaded bracket, against the tyre.

Can confirm, as I own an October 86' F250 302W, with factory flat tappet cam block, and v-belts. Not sure on the balance spec's though.

It threads onto a removable threaded bracket, that wedges against the tyre. The wing nut threads onto the bracket in reverse, and is then tightened down against an opposing bracket, welded inside the wheel carrier - on the RHS. XR-XG utes/vans all use the same bracket/nut.

Does the compression sound even, when cranking (even slowly?) Does it crank faster, with the spark plugs out? The starter could be shorting internally, due to to water ingress? I'd try measuring the current draw, if you have a clamp style ammeter.

How did that happen - a flooded road? Yeah, water doesn't compress, although I wouldn't have thought bent conrods, would make the engine run poorly? An inspection camera down each bore, could be helpful maybe? A leakdown test, would show any bent valves. Plus as @deankxf says, measuring each cylinder stroke with a plastic stick or similar, would be useful! Did you replace the oil too - I imagine that would be full of water also?

Not sure? If it's for the 3 wire one, maybe it just runs at full output, without any control?

So long as it's a two wire alternator, not the later 3 wire one (refer patch harness pic with missing center pin) Later BA/BF 3 wire alternators, are duty cycle controlled by the PCM. Me personally, I'd avoid everything and just fix the XG engine (new composite head gasket, with ARP head studs) Even AU head on XG seems easier possibly? (needs block machined to correct RA finish, to seal AU spec MLS head gasket)

I'd imagine many earlier BTR's would be fairly worn out by now, either clutches, or even just the second/fourth band? Not to mention potential gummed up solenoids, or valvebody?

Slight vacuum leak at intake manifold? (metal expands, opens leak, etc) Is the warmed up idle, smooth/rough etc? Or IAC valve letting extra air past throttle body.

Swaybar Link Pins... Early XF's incl XD/XE etc, use a bolt. Later XF's used the EA style link pins with a thread/nut at each end. I've never seen the EA style links available aftermarket, only the bushes. U can get universal threaded links, with inner nuts to adjust, rather than a spacer, Or repro bolt style link pins with spacer - same as XA/XB's, mustangs, etc.

Fairlane/LTD aka high-series clusters, are quite different again Passenger side of the engine block I believe?

Document Description This Document Describes the differences between various models of Instrument Clusters fitted to the EF/EL/NF/NL/DF/DL Series Falcons. It also has information on Upgrading an Instrument Cluster, modifications that need to be made, wiring information, swapping odometer readings, and some points to watch out for when performing these upgrades. With the EF series of Falcons (and Derivatives), there were four models of Instrument Clusters that were fitted to these vehicles. Theses Clusters Featured white Needles, with White Illumination, LCD based Odometers, Seat Belt Warning, and a Unique Diagnostic Mode With the Advent of the EL, all these clusters were revised to give a cleaner look, with Orange Needles, Less "Tick Lines" on the Speedo and Tacho, and a new Fuel Door Release Indicator. A new Cluster was also added to the range, which was fitted to the XR (Tickford) series of Vehicles. This new cluster is exactly the same as the Fairmont Mid Series Cluster, with the exception of a Tickford Logo being placed on the Tacho Section. The Following Images of Clusters have been taken from various EF/NF/DF Models, and include, NF Fairlane Instrument Cluster (High Series) as fitted to Fairlane, and LTD Models EF Chaser (Police) (Mid Series Special) Instrument Cluster, as fitted to ex Police Pursuit Models EF Sports Cluster (Mid Series) Instrument Cluster, as fitted to Fairmont, Fairmont Ghia, XR6, XR8 models EF Standard Cluster (Low Series) Instrument Cluster, as fitted to Gli, and Futura Models NOTE : If fitting Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia Instrument Cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR Model, it will be necessary to add a Resistor to the Instrument Cluster Circuit Board, in order for the LCD Backlighting to function correctly. Please see below for further information regarding this A Big thankyou goes out to WAYNE for Discovering this Interesting Quirk with the EL Clusters, and for working out how to fix this problem ! EF Base Series Cluster The EF Base Series Cluster has the following Features White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles 220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 5Km Line Markings 6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 500RPM Line Markings Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp Seatbelt Warning Lamp Smartlock Warning Lamp Park Brake Warning Lamp Brake Fail Warning Lamp Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone Low Oil Warning Lamp Alternator Warning Lamp Low Coolant Warning Lamp (Fitted to Futura and Police/Taxi Pack Models Service Due Spanner Warning Air Bag Fault indicator ABS Fault Indicator (where fitted) Auto Transmission economy mode indicator Cruise Control Indicator (where fitted) Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up). Diagnostic Mode EF Mid Series Cluster The EF Mid Series Cluster is similar to the EF Base series Cluster, and has the following extra Features Oil Pressure Gauge Battery Voltage Gauge Low Windscreen Washer Fluid In addition to these features, the Mid Series Cluster has the following Features that are common with the Base Series Cluster. White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles 220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 5Km Line Markings 6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 500RPM Line Markings Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp Seatbelt Warning Lamp Smartlock Warning Lamp Park Brake Warning Lamp Brake Fail Warning Lamp Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone Low Oil Warning Lamp Alternator Warning Lamp Low Coolant Warning Lamp (Fitted to Futura and Police/Taxi Pack Models Service Due Spanner Warning Air Bag Fault indicator ABS Fault Indicator (where fitted) Auto Transmission economy mode indicator Cruise Control Indicator (where fitted) Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up). Diagnostic Mode EF Chaser (Police) Cluster (Part Number 94DA-10849-BB) The EF Chaser (Police) Series Cluster is a special issue cluster, and was made only available to Police issue EF Falcons. These Falcons had a number of upgrades made to the vehicle, with the Instrument Cluster being one of them. The Chaser (police) Cluster is based on the Mid Series Instrument Cluster, but with 2 very important modifications made to it. Instead of a Diagnostic Mode that is available with all other EF series Clusters, the EF Police Cluster has a Speedo Calibration Feature, which allows the user to calibrate the Speedo, and Odometer Readings with a percentage error. These Clusters are very rare, and a re a much sought after item because of this calibration feature, as it makes wheel, tyre, and Diff Changes very easy in regards to calibrating the Speedo. The Calibration range can be made between +-10%, with 0.5% increments. The Speedo has Markings every 2Kmph, for improved Speedo accuracy. Much like the EF Mid Series Instrument Cluster, the EF Chaser (Police) Cluster has the following features Oil Pressure Gauge Battery Voltage Gauge Low Windscreen Washer Fluid White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles 220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 2Km Line Markings 6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 100RPM Line Markings Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp Seatbelt Warning Lamp Smartlock Warning Lamp Park Brake Warning Lamp Brake Fail Warning Lamp Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone Low Oil Warning Lamp Alternator Warning Lamp Low Coolant Warning Lamp (Fitted to Futura and Police/Taxi Pack Models Service Due Spanner Warning Air Bag Fault indicator ABS Fault Indicator (where fitted) Auto Transmission economy mode indicator Cruise Control Indicator (where fitted) Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up). NOTE : Diagnostic Mode is not available on the Police Instrument Clusters, as this mode is replaced by the Calibration Mode NF Fairlane (High Series) Cluster The NF Fairlane, and DF LTD Instrument Clusters (High Series) are very similar in layout, to the EF Series of Clusters, but unfortunately, very few parts are interchangeable between the two. These clusters feature Unique Background Lettering / Graphics, Needles, Bulb Holders, LCD Panel, and Warning Lamps. Other Features include Oil Pressure Gauge Battery Voltage Gauge Low Windscreen Washer Fluid Warning Lamp (On LCD) White Illumination, with White Cluster Needles 220Km Electronic Speedo, with 10Km Speed Numeral Markings, and 5Km Line Markings 6000 RPM Tacho, with 1000RPM Numeral Markings, and 100RPM Line Markings Fuel Gauge with Electronic Dampening with Low Fuel Warning Lamp Temperature Gauge, with high Temperature warning Lamp Seatbelt Warning Lamp Smartlock Warning Lamp Park Brake Warning Lamp Brake Fail Warning Lamp Turn Signal and High Beam Indicators Lights on with Ignition off warning lamp and Tone Low Oil Warning Lamp Alternator Warning Lamp Low Coolant Warning Lamp Service Due Spanner Warning (On LCD Panel) Air Bag Fault indicator Lamp ABS Fault Indicator Lamp Auto Transmission economy mode indicator (On LCD) Cruise Control Indicator (On LCD) Check Suspension Warning Lamp Spot Lamps Indicator (there, but not wired up). Automatic Transmission Gear Position Indicator Vehicle Outline, with Door Ajar, Boot, and Fuel Flap Status Indicators (On LCD) Park Lamp Bulb Out Warning (On LCD) Brake Lamp Bulb Out Warning (On LCD) Diagnostic Mode Upgrading and swapping Instrument Clusters With exception to the NF Fairlane cluster, and fitting Fairmont Clusters to GLi/Futura/XR models, it is possible to change between different Cluster models rather painlessly. The Low, Mid and Police Clusters all use the same connectors, same Bulb holders, same needles, and very similar circuit boards / Needle Assemblies. NOTE : Fairmont, Fairmont Ghia, and EL-GT Clusters are missing 1 Resistor, that is used to allow LCD Illumination, with the Park Lamps on ! When fitting an EF/EL Fairmont, EF/EL Fairmont Ghia, or ELGT Instrument Cluster to an EF/EL GLi/Futura/XR model Falcon, you will Need to add this resistor for the LCD Panels to function correctly. Without this resistor, the LCD Panels (Clock/Trip Computer/Odometer/Climate Control) WILL NOT ILLUMINATE AT ALL WHEN THE PARK LAMPS OR HEADLAMPS HAVE BEEN TURNED ON !) NOTE : This resistor is not required when Fitting Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT/Fairlane/LTD Clusters to vehicles fitted with a High Series BEM (Fairmont/Ghia/EL-GT/Fairlane/LTD) Information for fitting this resistor (and the reasons behind it - are outlined below. Some important steps to watch out for when doing an Instrument Cluster conversion will include, 1. As stated above, when fitting a Fairmont/Ghia, or GT Cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR Model, you will need to add 1 Resistor to the Cluster Circuit Board - This procedure is outlined below 2. The Odometer Reading will need to be changed. (Remember your Pink slip will have this reading on it from your previous years Registration - There is a $10,000 fine for Fraudulently Winding Back your Odometer Reading.) 3. If Upgrading from a Base Instrument Cluster, The Oil Pressure Switch will need to be replaced with an Oil Pressure sensor. 4. If adding the Low Coolant Warning Lamp on Gli Vehicles, an extra wire, and a Coolant Sensor switch will need to be added. (Note All Clusters have the ability to display the Low Coolant Output). 5. If adding the Low Windscreen Washer Level Warning Lamp, a new Washer Bottle, with Level sensor, and an extra line will need to be added for the Warning to work. (Note All Clusters have the ability to display the Low Windscreen washer Level LCD Warning). Some Common misconceptions with the EF and EL series Clusters include 1. There is no difference with V8 and I6 Tacho sections ! - Don’t ask me why, but I definitely have a V8 Fairlane Cluster fitted to my EF, and it has an Inline 6 motor. The Tacho section on both the original, and Fairlane Clusters are within 20RPM tolerance of each other, throughout the entire rev range ! 2. The Odometer Readings can be swapped, changed or kept. The Odometer Reading is held within the Instrument Cluster, not within the EEC-V Engine Management, nor does the Instrument Cluster have a Backup Memory, or a Tamper-proof mechanism to deter Odometer Fraud ! 3. There is no Electrical, or Calibration Difference within the Speedo sections of the cluster, in terms of different Factory fitted Diffs, wheel, and Tyre Ratios. Changing Clusters will not alter the Factory Speedo readings. Adding the LCD Dimming Resistor A Big thankyou goes out to WAYNE for Discovering this Interesting Quirk with the Fairmont Clusters, and for working out how to fix this problem ! NOTE : When fitting a Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT Instrument Cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR Model, you will need to add 1 Resistor to the Instrument Cluster, in order for the LCD Panels to Illuminate correctly. Without this resistor, the LCD Panel(s) (Clock/Trip Computer/Climate Control/Odometer) will not Illuminate when the Park Lamps, or Headlamps have been switched on. The reason for fitting this resistor is Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT/Fairlane/LTD Model Falcons use the Body Electronics Module to Dim the LCD Panels, when the Headlamps are switched On. The Low and Mid Series Body Electronics Modules DO NOT HAVE THIS FACILITY. Fords Method of getting around this problem, was to fit a Resistor the Instrument Clusters for use in GLi/Futura/XR Models. This Resistor Feeds the Negative LCD Dimming Circuit, when the Park Lamps are on, and without it, the LCD Illumination Bulbs will not Illuminate. Please Note : Fitting this resistor does not apply when fitting an XR Cluster, to a GLi/Futura/XR Model Falcon. Finally, it is also worth noting that if fitting a GLi/Futura/XR clusters to a Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia/EL-GT, THIS RESISTOR WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED, and IN ORDER FOR THE Variable Dimming Function to work correctly with the LCD Panels. The location of this resistor is on the Instrument Circuit Board, and is located to the right of the RHS Instrument Cluster Connector. I.E. You will need to remove the Dials, and the circuit Board, flip the circuit board over, and solder the resistor in the position shown below. The Following Picture will give you a better idea of its location, The Resistor you will require is a 1Watt, 47 Ohm Resistor. The Colour Bands for this resistor are Yellow, Violet, Black, Gold (5% Tolerance, 4 Band type). Or for a 5 Band 1% Tolerance type resistor , the colour bands would be Yellow, Violet, Black, Black, Brown. Please note though, you will Require a 1Watt type Resistor, due to the currents required by the LCD Panels. The following are Catalogue Numbers for the above resistors, from various Electronics stores. Jaycar - Cat RR-2542 - 47R 1 Watt Carbon Film, 5% ($0.32 Pkt of 2) Dick Smith - R-1662 - Resistor 1W CF 47 Ohm, $0.10ea Adding the Resistor To do this, you will obviously need to remove the Instrument Cluster, and Disassemble. To Disassemble the Instrument Cluster, 1.Remove the Clear Lens, and Black Plastic Lens Holder by removing the 2 Torx Screws Located at the top of the instrument cluster. (NOTE : You do not require a Torx bit to do this, a flat-headed screwdriver is perfectly adequate.) 2.Unclip the Black Plastic Lens Holder by unclipping the 2 clips at the top, and 3 clips at the bottom of the cluster. 3.Remove the Plastic Masking Lens away from the Dial Faces 4.Remove the 2 Torx Screws, Located at the back of the Instrument Cluster (Near the Bulb Holders). These screws are used to hold the Dial Faces in place. 5.Once these screws have been removed, gently ply the Dial faces away from their respective metal clips. This requires some force to do this, but it is important that you pull the faces directly up and away from the circuit board ! Do not try and Wiggle the faces away from the board. 6.To remove the Cluster Circuit Board, Remove the 2 Torx screws located At the bottom of the Circuit Board. 7.Finally, lift the circuit board from the top, up, and out of the Cluster casing. (Pulling the bottom electrical connectors out from the Casing housing). Once the location is found, Heat up the Solder points outlined above, with a soldering iron, and attempt to clean the area of the solder. Below the solder are mounting holes for the resistor. Removing the Excess Solder will allow the resistor to be mounted by placing its legs through these holes. Once fitted, solder in place, and re-assemble the Instrument Cluster, and test. Swapping Odometer Readings Obviously, when swapping Instrument clusters, you will want to keep the same Odometer Readings for your vehicle. Because the EF and EL series vehicles have a digital Odometer, simply cracking open, and winding the Odometer backwards will not work. So how is the Odometer reading changed ? Firstly, you will need to know a little bit about electronics. The Odometer Reading, as well as the Trip meter, Service spanner setting, and possibly other settings, are stored in a device known in the Electronics industry as an EEPROM, or E2PROM, (pronounced E squared Prom). An E2PROM is an Electrically Erasable, Electrically Programable, Read Only Memory, very similar to the Flash upgradeable Computer Bios. Anyway, without boring you on how an E2PROM works, the model used in the VDO Instrument Clusters is an X24C44 Surface Mount model. This chip is located approximately 1cm to the right of the chunkiest chip, on the back of the Instrument Cluster Circuit Board. This is the same position as per the Low, Mid, and High Series Instrument Clusters. As was previously mentioned, this chip is surface mounted, that is you will need special tools in order to remove it. It is this chip that stores the Odometer, as well as other readings. When swapping Instrument Clusters, you will need to De-Solder this chip, and swap it from your Original Instrument Cluster, to your new Instrument Cluster. WARNING : I take no responsibility for any Damage that may be caused through any actions that are taken, that are directly, or Indirectly related to the information provided herein ! This is a small, delicate, and heat sensitive chip, and as such, is very susceptible to permanent damage, which WILL if damaged, render the instrument cluster USELESS ! Under no circumstances will Matthew I Jones be held responsible for any such damage. Remember, this site is provided to you, free of charge, and it is up to yourself to correctly determine what modifications can be safely conducted by yourself ! Adding an Oil Pressure Sensor Because the Low series Instrument Clusters do not have an Oil Pressure Meter, these vehicles do not have an Oil Pressure sensor fitted. Instead of the Oil Pressure sender, they use an Oil Pressure switch. What is the difference between these Oil Switch sender thingies I hear you ask ? The Oil Pressure switch is just that, it switches to Ground when the Oil Pressure drops below a certain level. This means that the Oil Pressure switch is only good for Switching a low Oil Pressure Lamp On or Off. If a Mid or High series Instrument cluster is used with an Oil Pressure switch, the Oil Pressure gauge will either show 0 Oil Pressure, or very very High Oil Pressure, with no intermediate pressure. The Oil Pressure Sender has a constantly variable Voltage, that is directly related to the Oil Pressure. Obviously, this variable voltage is required for an Oil Pressure gauge. The Mid and High Series Instrument Clusters also compare this voltage, and if the Voltage falls below a predetermined level, the low Oil Pressure Warning lamp is Illuminated. The Oil Pressure Switch, and Oil Pressure sensor are located in exactly the same place, and as stated above, if fitting a Mid or High series Cluster, (I.E. upgrading from a Low series cluster), the Oil Pressure switch will need to be replaced with an Oil Pressure sensor. These sensors are located roughly about 2 inches above the Oil Filter, on the Inline 6 motors. The sensor also has a single wire coming from it, with a spade electrical connector. The Oil Pressure sensor can be purchased from Wreckers for around $20. Or alternatively, can be bought from Ford for around $50.00 - Ford Part Number EF-9D290-A Adding the Low Coolant sensor This is a worthwhile modification that can be made to the EF and EL Series model Falcons, as it is relatively inexpensive to do, and it can be added to ALL Instrument clusters, (low, Mid, and High Series). Considering the number of cases of Head Gasket Problems with the EF and EL, this modification could save you a lot of money ! The only models that do not have the low Coolant Sensor are Unfortunately, the GLi models. The Low Coolant Sensor is integrated in to the Plastic coolant Bottle, but can be added to an existing coolant bottle. The part you will require is 10K888-AA, the low coolant level sensor. This part simply screws in to the existing Coolant Overflow Bottle, but you will need to remove the blanking plug first. Once this part has been fitted, you will then need to wire it up to the Instrument cluster One wire is Black, and is connected directly to ground. The other wire colour, Yellow/Red, should be connected directly to the Instrument Cluster, low coolant lamp, On the Right Hand Side connector, Pin Number 3. Finally, you will need to add the Low coolant sensor Bulb to the Instrument Cluster. This Bulb is located right next to the LCD Panel, on the Right Hand Side (With the Back of the Instrument Cluster facing towards you). The socket for this bulb may be blanked out by a round paper sticker, simply remove this sticker, and fit a new Bulb and Bulb Holder. Adding the Fog/Spot/Driving Lamp Warning Circuit A Big thankyou goes out to WAYNE for Discovering this Interesting Quirk with the EL Clusters, and for working out how to fix this problem ! The EF and EL series Instrument Clusters have the facility for a Fog/Spot/Driving Lamp Warning lamp, just above the Smartlock Warning Jewel, on the Instrument Cluster. Although the Facility is there, there are some additions that you will need to make to the Instrument Cluster, in order for this function to work. Firstly, a wire must be run to Pin 8, of the Left Hand Side (Passenger Side) Instrument Cluster. This wire Needs to have +12Volts running to it, in order for the Spot Lamp Warning Jewel to Illuminate. With most aftermarket Spot/Fog/Driving Lamp Circuits being triggered by switching +12V to the Spot Lamp circuit, this should not be a difficult task. Once this has been completed, you will need to add an extra Bulb, and Bulb Holder to the Instrument Cluster. There is a blanked out socket, just above the Smartlock LED. This socket is blanked out using a round paper sticker, and can easily be removed by simply peeling it off the circuit board. Once this sticker is removed, you will need to fit a Bulb Holder, complete with a Bulb to this empty socket. It is recommended that a 1.2Watt Globe is fitted to the Bulb Holder, though this is not terribly important (An increased Bulb Wattage will do no damage to the Cluster), you may find that at night time, 2Watt Bulbs may be too bright, and annoying. If you have an EF Model Instrument Cluster, then this is all that is required. And you are now ready to test the Spot/Fog/Driving Lamp warning jewels operation. Unfortunately, EL Model Instrument Clusters are a slightly different matter. These clusters are missing 1 Diode that is VITALLY important for the Spot Lamp Warning Jewel operation. For this circuit to function correctly, you will need to add 1 x 1N4004 Signal Diode to the circuit board, roughly behind the Battery Voltage Gauge. See the picture below for more details. To do this, you will obviously need to remove the Instrument Cluster, and Disassemble. To Disassemble the Instrument Cluster, 1.Remove the Clear Lens, and Black Plastic Lens Holder by removing the 2 Torx Screws Located at the top of the instrument cluster. (NOTE : You do not require a Torx bit to do this, a flat-headed screwdriver is perfectly adequate.) 2.Unclip the Black Plastic Lens Holder by unclipping the 2 clips at the top, and 3 clips at the bottom of the cluster. 3.Remove the Plastic Masking Lens away from the Dial Faces 4.Remove the 2 Torx Screws, Located at the back of the Instrument Cluster (Near the Bulb Holders). These screws are used to hold the Dial Faces in place. 5.Once these screws have been removed, gently ply the Dial faces away from their respective metal clips. This requires some force to do this, but it is important that you pull the faces directly up and away from the circuit board ! Do not try and Wiggle the faces away from the board. 6.To remove the Cluster Circuit Board, Remove the 2 Torx screws located At the bottom of the Circuit Board. 7.Finally, lift the circuit board from the top, up, and out of the Cluster casing. (Pulling the bottom electrical connectors out from the Casing housing). Once this has been completed, you will need to locate the position that the 1N4004 Diode will need to be soldered in place. The following image will assist you in this process. Once the location is found, Heat up the Solder points with a soldering iron, and attempt to clean the area of the solder. Below the solder are mounting holes for the Diode. Removing the Excess Solder will allow the Diode to be mounted by placing its legs through these holes. The Diode ! MUST ! sit in the direction where the Silver Band (the Cathode end) is towards the center of the circuit board. This is VITALLY IMPORTANT, as fitting the diode in the wrong direction will mean that the circuit will not Function AT ALL. Once fitted, solder in place, and re-assemble the Instrument Cluster, and test. Adding the Low Windscreen Washer Sensor The Low Windscreen Washer Fluid Sensor detects when the level of the Windscreen washer fluid falls to a level that allows only a few more seconds of Windscreen washer operation. The Warning lamp is integrated within the LCD Odometer panel, on the EF and EL Series Falcons, and surprisingly enough, it is actually available on all clusters. Unfortunately, if you have a GLi Model, without ABS, then you will not have the electrical connector, and wiring already available. EF/EL Futura Models, and GLi Models with ABS fitted will have this connector already fitted, and wired up, so all that is needed is to add the Low Washer Fluid Switch, which is part of the Windscreen washer Bottle. The Windscreen washer Level sensor is a simple On Off switch, and is integrated within the Washer Bottle, using a rubber grommet. The sensor can be removed and fitted, but you would probably find that it is easier to simply purchase a new/used Bottle with the sensor already fitted, from a Fairmont, Fairlane or LTD. The electrical connector is a Female T piece, and is exactly the same type as used on the Front Turn signals. This piece has 2 wires coming from it, 1 wire is connected directly to ground (Black), and the other wire goes to the Instrument Cluster Right hand side connector. (Pink/Yellow wire) (See below for Wiring Information, in regards to the Right Hand Side Instrument Cluster Connector). As mentioned above, when the Windscreen washer level drops to a low level, this switch conducts, causing the Pink/Yellow wire going to the Cluster to be grounded. The Instrument Cluster will then Illuminate the Warning segment, on the LCD Panel. Wiring Information for the EF Series Instrument Cluster EF Falcon Low and Mid Series Instrument Cluster Left Hand Side Instrument Cluster Connector Pin 1 Not Used Pin 2 Not Used Pin 3 Illumination + (Park Lamp Relay) +12V Brown Pin 4 Illumination - (Negative) PWM Ground Dark Blue / Red Pin 5 Brake Fail Ground Violet White Pin 6 Park Brake Ground Orange / Dark Green Pin 7 Not Used Black / Dark Green Pin 8 Fog Lamp Relay +12V Not Connected Pin 9 R.H. Blinker +12V Dark Green / Dark Blue Pin 10 Hi Beam Relay +12V Dark Green / Orange Pin 11 L.H. Blinker +12V Dark Green Pin 12 Cruise Control Activated Ground Violet / Light Blue Pin 13 Economy Mode (Trans) Ground Orange / White Pin 14 ABS Check Ground White / Light Blue Pin 15 Air Bag Ground Black / Yellow Pin 16 Rear Window Demister +12V Yellow / White Pin 17 Alternator Fail Ground Gray / Red Pin 18 Power Ground Ground Not Connected Pin 19 Not Used Pin 20 Not Used Right Hand Side Connector for Low and Mid Series Instrument Clusters Pin 1 Signal Ground Ground Black / Dark Green Pin 2 Fuel Sender Resistance Yellow / Dark Green Pin 3 Low Coolant Resistance Yellow / Red Pin 4 Speed Signal Input Pulsed White Pin 5 Speed Signal Out Data White Pin 6 Low Washer Fluid Ground Pink / Yellow Pin 7 Tacho Input Pulsed Pink / Dark Blue Pin 8 EEC Module Input Data Bluish Pin 9 Speed sender Supply +5V Red Pin 10 No Connection Pin 11 Ignition Power +12V Red / Dark Green Pin 12 No Connection Pin 13 No Connection Pin 14 Trip Computer Data Data Bluish Pin 15 Smartlock LED Ground Dark Blue / Light Green Pin 16 LCD Illumination (Negative) PWM White / Orange Black / White Pin 17 LCD Illumination (Positive) +12V Red / Dark Green Pin 18 Oil Pressure sender Ground to Ground White / Red Pin 19 Ground Ground Black Pin 20 Power +12V Yellow / Black High Series NF/DL Fairlane/LTD Instrument Cluster Left Hand Side Left Hand Side Connector - 16Pin Left Pin 1 Illumination + (Park Lamps Relay) +12V Brown Pin 2 Illumination + PWM Dark Blue / Red Pin 3 Brake Fail Warning Ground Yellow / White Pin 4 Park Brake Ground Orange / Dark Green Pin 5 No Connection Black / Dark Green Pin 6 Fog Lamp Relay +12V No Connection Pin 7 R.H. Indicator +12V Dark Green / Dark Blue Pin 8 Hi Beam Relay +12V Dark Green / Orange Pin 9 L.H> Indicator +12V Dark Green Pin 10 Cruise Control Activation Ground Yellow / Light Blue Pin 11 Economy (Trans) Ground Green / White Pin 12 ABS Check Ground White / Light Blue Pin 13 Air Bag Fault Ground Black / Yellow Pin 14 Rear Window Demister Ground Yellow / White Pin 15 Alternator Fail Ground Grey / Red Pin 16 No Connection High Series NF/DL Fairlane/LTD Instrument Cluster Left Hand Side Right part of the Left Hand Side Connector - 12Pin Right Pin 1 No Connection Pin 2 No Connection Pin 3 Door Switch Front Left (Passenger) Resistance White / Red Pin 4 Door Switch Front Right (Driver) Resistance White Pin 5 Door Switch Rear Left (Passenger Side) Resistance Black / Red Pin 6 Door Switch Rear Right (Drivers Side) Resistance Black / Green Pin 7 Fuel Flap Switch Resistance Dark Blue / Black Pin 8 Boot Lid Switch Ground White Pin 9 Check Suspension Ground Dark Green Pin 10 No Connection Pin 11 No Connection Pin 12 No Connection Right Hand Side Connector for High Series Instrument Clusters Pin 1 Signal Ground Ground Black / Dark Green Pin 2 Fuel Sender Resistance Yellow / Dark Green Pin 3 Low Coolant Resistance Yellow / Red Pin 4 Speed Signal Input Pulsed White Pin 5 Speed Signal Out Data White Pin 6 Low Washer Fluid Ground Pink / Yellow Pin 7 Tacho Input Pulsed Pink / Dark Blue Pin 8 EEC Module Input Data Bluish Pin 9 Speed sender Supply +5V Red Pin 10 No Connection Pin 11 Ignition Power +12V Red / Dark Green Pin 12 No Connection Pin 13 No Connection Pin 14 Trip Computer Data Data Bluish Pin 15 Smartlock LED Ground Dark Blue / Light Green Pin 16 LCD Illumination (Negative) PWM Black / White Pin 17 LCD Illumination (Positive) +12V Red / Dark Green Pin 18 Oil Pressure sender Ground to Ground White / Red Pin 19 Ground Ground Black Pin 20 Power +12V Yellow / Black Back 4 Pin Connector for High Series Instrument Clusters This Connector is used for the Brake and Park Lamps Bulb out warning. Pin 1 Brake Switch - Dark Green / Red Pin 2 Park Lamp Relay - Brown Pin 3 Brake Lamps - Brown Pin 4 Rear Park Lamps - Dark Green / Red

Made a quick copy/paste thread for u, @XF EDDIE Read here - EF-EL and XH clusters are all interchangable. Mid series clusters - Fairmont, Police and XR - (with volt/oil) just need an oil pressure sensor fitted. They're essentially plug and play. (note - low coolant light will likely be illuminated, unless you fit a coolant level sensor, or a jumper wire) The odometer dimming is only affected if u fit a Fairmont instrument cluster to a GLi. (Fairmont clusters, need a resistor soldered onto the cluster circuit board) XR and Police clusters, are not affected. Fairmont dash light dimming is done by the BEM (incl, smartlock, central locking, interior light time-out, wipers etc). Low series vehicles have a two stage dimming switch - dull, bright and interior light on - not controlled by the BEM. Fairmont dimmer lever, is a momentary action - hold the lever and the dash lights progressively dim down, then back to bright. Low series BEM's timeout the interior light like a switch, Mid series BEMs, fade the interior light to off. Odometer reading is stored in an EEPROM chip in the cluster This chip can be de-soldered and swapped between gauge clusters, to retain the original reading. The odometer backlight globe is a 1.2w grain-of-wheat globe, in a small plastic holder I'm not sure if the odometer backlight globe wattage differs between low and mid series clusters, but I tried a 2w globe once and it was noticeably over-lit, so changed it for a 1.2w.