2redrovers

If it's easy enough to set up, then I'd say the three generations in their own sections would make searching/finding easier. There could be a rolling Q&A thread for people to use then copy paste into the relevant pages if desired.

Worth all the effort I'd say (by which I mean everything) [emoji108]

Bit of nice aluminium for a heat shield maybe?

If it's "just" touching when you close it, then it's probably getting more than a touch while running. The vibration would crack the filler over time. Many ways to join a scoop, some better than others.

You haven't taken out the upright portion of the ribs so there would still be some strength there, maybe a bit reduced on the one side. Just go round and deburr the edges so you don't run the risk of slicing yourself open later. If it shows any signs of fatigue down the road, just add a plate across the rear section so it can't bend in the middle. [emoji106]

I'd be inclined to cut and splice them to alter the angle they meet the rear edge. So you get the wider space between them but still have solid support. I don't know if that's an option within your skill set, it's just how I'd go about the problem.

For more peace of mind about whether you sealed the holes, get something like penetrol or similar wicking agent. Squirt a bit around all the clips, repeat a couple of times over a couple of weeks and it should get a good barrier layer in there to help prevent (or at least dramatically slow) any corrosion.

Yeah.. What he said.. [emoji41][emoji108]

There is a handful of parts made by rare spares that are near correct, I can't say if those particular sills are one of them. Generally speaking they will be slightly thinner than the original steel and not as crisp in the folds. I've used quite a few RS panels and none have been spot on, some were downright atrocious. One of the good names would be patch maker but I'm not sure if they do that particular section. Bank on the inner sill being rotten too if the outside is rusted. Make sure the car is well supported on good jack stands before you start cutting, so the body doesn't sag when you take out the strength. Check the base of the windscreen (A pillar area, above the door hinges, under the guards ) to see there is any signs of rust from trapped water. I did an xy that had rotted a path from the windscreen down through the pillar and out the bottom of the sill due to poor water drainage. It took quite a bit of time and multiple sections to repair everything.

Alternatively look at plastic/rubber mud flaps to use as a shield.

Oooooh shiny bits.... Obviously the app was just dazzled by the esky's brilliance and couldn't see where it was supposed to upload the pics to [emoji16]

Yeah that's odd. When I went to click on one, it started to go to imgur but before it loaded an image it "crashed" back to the Tapatalk app.

Ok guys, the place I'm at has a fairlane.. ZG? ZF? I'm not sure on the difference but he has this front grille on now But he wants to put in this grille set up Problem is that the headlight buckets and brackets they have don't seem to match with the new grille. Does anyone know what parts he needs to use to make it bolt on correctly? Do you have any head light buckets that will suit this in your stash that you would sell (for good coin)? Any help you can give would be appreciated [emoji106]

The ZF grille on the floor is the one he wants to fit, so I guess he's going for originality too. Interesting about the plate, Greg and I were guessing and assumed it had two but one was covered under the black insulation bit. I'm not familiar with these as I've never had to work on them before.

Looks like he's found a set of ZF buckets on ebay. We just held these brackets up for comparison and they look like the right ones (shorter than the ones he has here).

They seem to run different buckets if for no other reason than the bolt holes don't match up. Good to know what letters it is though [emoji106]

And stick some signage on the sides then write it all up on tax...... [emoji6]

Unless you want a mk1 van........

Can always make some later if they don't look pretty enough for the rest of the build. You know where to find me if you need help with stuff like this.

It's nuts how many parts are made incorrectly for the resto sector. It's a waste of time for everyone involved when stuff doesn't work the way they are supposed to. Getting there though [emoji106]

I'd go for the acid etch prime method first.. Worst case scenario it might chip and if it does, just wash it down with thinners to get the paint off then sand or fine blast it before painting again. I reckon the etch will be good enough though. Not something your going to be handling all the time.

Bitumen based seam sealer. Like you said, it looks like tar because basically it is. I'm sure it has various things in it but the same black goop that seals the cracks in the road, got turned into sheets for deadener, or spray for stone guard and noise reduction, or gooped through a squeezy nozzle for seams. It's the cheap kind that auto shops will carry or check with your paint supplier.

Looking great man [emoji41][emoji108]

Tidy[emoji108]

".. Hahahaha I'm a livin joke.." That's awesome to see. Car is going to be perfection when it's done. Wonder if that other box is back together and functional too?