2redrovers

".. Hahahaha I'm a livin joke.." That's awesome to see. Car is going to be perfection when it's done. Wonder if that other box is back together and functional too?

Relax... They run four stage Bluetooth dampers, they're just not installed yet [emoji28]

Just use these and build any combo you like [emoji16]

Spray cans should be fine for the engine bay, just a bit expensive for the amount of coverage you get but probably cheaper/easier than setting up a compressor. I've never used the Eastwood stuff but I'm sure it's half decent. Most of their products are aimed at guys in the same position as you. I'd suggest going to your local bodyshop/auto paint supplier and get them to put together the gear you need. Cans can be tricky due to reactions between chemicals so it's best to ask the shop what's suitable and how much you will need to do the job.

The only difference I'd say to that is instead of etch, use ppg epoxy (or similar) after you sand the bay. It will permanently seal the old paint and bare metal at the same time and give you a consistent base layer to work up from. The stuff I use was called ppg 408 grey-green but it's had a name change that I can't remember the new code.

Agreed. Do it once and forget about it. [emoji106]

Looking good [emoji106]

Worn fan bearings/bushings? Maybe on 3, the rpm is just right to make it wobble and slow down? Just a thought.

That's the best way to go and in reality, it doesn't take any extra effort when compared to chasing problems later (paint reactions, bubbles, etc)

Yeah that's the type, refers to the curly nylon abrasive. I use a large diameter disc without the backing pad. Get them from your local bodyshop / auto paint supplier. It's important to use a variable speed grinder/sander for this type of disc. Don't spin them too fast or they will break apart and fly off at high speed. I usually run at about half speed on mine. That also applies to the type you linked with the backing pad, the glue is often weakened from not being stored properly prior to sale.

The best method is bare metal then prime with ppg 408 epoxy (in grey-green is the best version), then filler if required, reprime with the 408 epoxy to seal the filler, then start the process for painting (hifill, sanding, colour etc). You can do a panel at a time, the epoxy is 2 pak but does take a long time to dry so be aware of that but it's relatively cheap and the best on the market as far as the resto scene is concerned. I'd strip it with a poly disc for most of it, red brush what I couldn't reach, treat any rust with acid then seal it as above with epoxy. It will be good for a couple of years if done correctly like that and weather proof as well.

I use these from supercheap https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-nylon-filament-wheel-brush/550790.html Use in the power drill it will take the rust off without biting into the metal like a grinder wheel. It will strip paint, filler, primer, rust and clean up metal for welding. I use them the most along with flap wheels and strip discs. You can do the red brush first or you can get some rainex rust buster acid from bunnings (phosphoric acid) and use a bit of steel wool or a scourer /scotchbrite to scrub any rusty metal. The acid is brilliant and will take off all the rust with a little elbow grease, back to clean metal, scrub on, wipe off, it will only react to bare metal (doesn't work through paint). Give it a sand when you are ready to paint it, as if it was just bare steel, sand with 180# start primer, slap some paint over and all good. Assuming you just want to patch it so it doesn't rust to pieces. If you want to respray the whole thing, strip a panel at a time, wash it down with acid, wash it down with metho or thinners, epoxy prime then start the repair/paint process.

Are you on facebook? Someone looking to buy a 400 https://m.facebook.com/groups/197562983773533/permalink/1739457599584056/

Leaking oil... Yeah I'd call that pretty much standard too

Ta daaa ... Yeah... I don't know what I'm looking at...

I don't know the difference but you got me curious about what my van has under it.... Besides more rust...

Mate put bigger and slotted brakes on a stock manual bombadore. People would comment similar saying what's the point of that etc... The point was he USED them to the limits keeping his race track skills on point. Hot laps around the local "track" out front of the shop. Having too much brake is rarely a bad thing (unless you can't depend on them when they are cold and some idiot cuts you off on the street) .

Might know where a *ahem* good one is..... ... Crap, i wasn't supposed to laugh when I said that was I...

Cool stuff. Have to see if we can get more boxes happening.

So that's with the short shifter? Does look like you're going to be grabbing at the wrong slot for a while until you get used to it [emoji6]

Good stuff [emoji41][emoji106]

Good to hear [emoji106][emoji106]

Put your straight edge on the end of the case, use a ruler or a straight length of wire/rod and measure the depth of the inside of case to the spot next to the pin. Line up the ruler/wire on the outside of the case perpendicular to the straight edge. Hey presto.. You now know how thick the casting is in that spot. BTW the weld is the same consistency as the the cast give or take a little difference in density. Physically drilling it won't be difficult, finding the right spot would take an educated guess. I'd probably go just behind the round bump in the casting support and 3-4mm up from the fin surface. That should find the void, go slow and you should feel the bit fall in to it. Poke a wire in the hole to find the end of the pin and that will give you the measurements of the pin when you add the thickness of the case plus the visible length.

From the side, I'd probably aim for where the back of the pin used to be.

Reference photos of the other box