2redrovers

Leaking oil... Yeah I'd call that pretty much standard too

Ta daaa ... Yeah... I don't know what I'm looking at...

I don't know the difference but you got me curious about what my van has under it.... Besides more rust...

Mate put bigger and slotted brakes on a stock manual bombadore. People would comment similar saying what's the point of that etc... The point was he USED them to the limits keeping his race track skills on point. Hot laps around the local "track" out front of the shop. Having too much brake is rarely a bad thing (unless you can't depend on them when they are cold and some idiot cuts you off on the street) .

Might know where a *ahem* good one is..... ... Crap, i wasn't supposed to laugh when I said that was I...

Cool stuff. Have to see if we can get more boxes happening.

So that's with the short shifter? Does look like you're going to be grabbing at the wrong slot for a while until you get used to it [emoji6]

Good stuff [emoji41][emoji106]

Good to hear [emoji106][emoji106]

Put your straight edge on the end of the case, use a ruler or a straight length of wire/rod and measure the depth of the inside of case to the spot next to the pin. Line up the ruler/wire on the outside of the case perpendicular to the straight edge. Hey presto.. You now know how thick the casting is in that spot. BTW the weld is the same consistency as the the cast give or take a little difference in density. Physically drilling it won't be difficult, finding the right spot would take an educated guess. I'd probably go just behind the round bump in the casting support and 3-4mm up from the fin surface. That should find the void, go slow and you should feel the bit fall in to it. Poke a wire in the hole to find the end of the pin and that will give you the measurements of the pin when you add the thickness of the case plus the visible length.

From the side, I'd probably aim for where the back of the pin used to be.

Reference photos of the other box

That would probably help. How do you feel about drilling a small hole into the void behind the pin, then use some wire or such to probe and measure where the pin now sits?

If it hasn't been pulled past the original casting then you could drill and tap the case to run in a lock/set screw. Another thought I just had, drill a pin hole behind and pump in some epoxy glue to fill the void so it can't push back in.

The other box

I didn't think you had more than 5mm to play with. Reference photos of your pin housing 3 maybe 4mm past the round casting node is where the end of the pin was.

Yeah that's the first option I said, or a collet chuck, same thing. I'd use a thread /bolt to pull it out slightly like a gear puller.

Not all the way out, just forward enough to keep the fork on the pin.

I could be wrong but I don't think the fork was removed from the shaft so it should still be as original.

Yeah I recognised that the marks there now are obviously fresh. Was thinking if there had been rounded corners on the edges along with what looks like a worn tip on the pin, that would have been why it's failed now. Like we said, it was probably worn before but didn't know because you couldn't test drive it. Wonder if the old guy did anything to the pin? Maybe was going to replace it but didn't and moved it out of position? I think I've got the answer to pulling the pin but I will have to draw you a diagram. Won't make sense otherwise.

Do you remember if there was any sign of wear on that fork before going back together?

I thought that was against the law [emoji16]

That's what I was thinking too, sure you can get a bit of garden art and do some welding but it has to be a two door or its useless.

Although I guess the next question the idiots would ask is American number = import papers

If it wasn't so expensive, I'd suggest buying an original panel from the states and call the thing a Yankee Tudor