RAWDEAL 222 Posted August 27, 2013 A few goodies came in the mail today , heres one of them Where do i mount the sensor? Top hose is pressure.. isnt it ? or. My block is grout filled so i sorta want to know whats going on all of the time.. I am running an au rad/themos so knowing that they are working / how well they are working would be good The more i think about it , should i just run 2 guages , one top hose one bottom? Would there be an advantage of using the factory sensor mount instead of the top hose , or the other way around? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted August 27, 2013 Yep, top hose. Guessing you have to cut the hose to fit.?? Original sender measures temp inside the block, doesn't make a lot of difference. Most thermo fans run from sender in radiator. 1 revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted August 27, 2013 If its controlling thermo fans IMO, bottom hose. This is because you want Radiator temp/efficiency, not engine temp. If you want to know engine temperature, top hose, but only if your not running a thermostat. If you are running a thermostat, take the temperature form the stok location in the head. 3 Wes, ronny and ILIED reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 29, 2013 I run two temp pick-up's 1 on the top hose and another capillary pick-up in the head.When I ran the water pump controller pick-up in the bottom hose the engine would not get up to tempreture...thats bad.So I moved it to the top and it has given me more temp control with a warmer engine but it still doesn't get hot enough IMO.Prob needs a restrictor plate/thermostat to help it TBH as when going to Methanol the issue will only get worse. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigCav 464 Posted August 29, 2013 i mucked around with a trans temp gauge once with 2 senders, i used 2 senders, before/after, the 1 gauge but used a switch to flick between which sender it used Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted August 30, 2013 i put mine in the heater fitting for thermo fans, pop out the press in fitting, tap thread, screw in fitting, slide heater hose back over. done. tridon does fittings in different temperatures for thermo fan switches. edit just saw this was for water temp gauge. my bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,886 Posted August 30, 2013 I run two temp pick-up's 1 on the top hose and another capillary pick-up in the head.When I ran the water pump controller pick-up in the bottom hose the engine would not get up to temperature... This is because that ECU for the electric water pump (EWP) needs to know engine temperature NOT radiator temperature. If you installed it in the bottom hose it would take too long for the ECU to sense a change in temperature so it will assume the sensor has gone cactus and go into engine protection mode. Ie, Pump goes flat out. If you have a DC-EWP you need to use engine temperature for the controller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted September 1, 2013 Ive fitted it here. There was already a cut in the hose, so that made it easy I am running the temp sender for the guage from the block at the moment I am yet to hook up the thermo fan controller. There is 1 more rad hose/adaptor on its way that im going to run in the bottom hose The controller for the fans will display the temp of the block or top hose. not sure the guage will display the temp from the bottom hose so i can sus weather the thermos are efficent Car seems to sit dead on 80c when moving more than ~50kmph Would that mean i have a 80c Themostat in there? At the moment the themos run flat out, i do have a manual switch, that i turn off when im starting , and in cold morings leave it off untill the car gets up to temp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ILIED 316 Posted September 1, 2013 I have two temp gauges in my ute.One in the thermostat housing to tell me the engine temp One in the bottom hose to tell me the rad temp. I still have the belt driven pemp and a viscous fan. Fans fucked, can tell cos ya can watch the rad temp play games as it gets hot when I'm not really moving and cools down when I get going. The thermostat works because the engine temp stays the same the whole time once its up to temp (unless I let it overheat, fan again). Gonna leave the belt driven pump, but run AU thermos, probably with a Tridon TFS205 in the bottom hose next to that temp sender. Switches for On/auto/Off for each fan, too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted September 1, 2013 is that for a guage on the dash or for a thermo fan switch? If its for a guage that useless as tits on a bull there, unless u have no thermostat it will simply read cold until the thermostat opens for the first time, then it will read the same temp for the rest of the day, it wont give a true indication of anything except that your thermostat has opened at some point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ILIED 316 Posted September 1, 2013 I'm confused what you mean. The sender in the thermostat housing tells me the engine temp. When I first start her, it takes a few mins and gets to ~160 The sender in my bottom hose tells me the outlet temp of the rad. I get about half way (about 20kms) to work before I get a reading on this in the mornings. Its only at about 100 by the time I get to work. The TFS205 will be the switch to operate the fans. The lower temp setting for Fan 1 on low. The higher temp setting for Fan 2 ON and Fan 1 on high. I havent got the TFS in yet cos I still have the mechanical fan.The gauges work fine. When I'm playing around in the bush and it starts getting hot, I can tell cos the rad temp gets to the same temp as the engine, then they both start going up together. Once I get a bit of air moving through the rad, they both start coming down together, except the engine temp settles back down to 160 and the rad temp goes down to whatever Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n00bus m@x1mus 465 Posted September 1, 2013 Sorry chaise that was directed at the OPs picture above your comment, should have quoted it, my bad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ILIED 316 Posted September 1, 2013 No stress. I was wondering Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted September 2, 2013 Sorry chaise that was directed at the OPs picture above your comment, should have quoted it, my bad I was unsure of what i was going to do, that would be why you were confused To clarify there are two senders i will mount 1 in the block, just before the tstat housing. Which will be connected to the Guage/thermo switch (the switch has a reading on it) Link = http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290567953863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 1 in the bottom hose , For the seperate guage. So i can then tell water temp As it sits now , i basically dont need the thermos to be on at all when im doing ~60kmph+ but when im in traffic. after a min or two. the engine temp starts going up. so the thermos arnt doing their job.. I think a higher amp alternator might help. but if i dont have a guage on there i wont really know I have to run a hall effect speedo pickup. due to it having a tr6060 so i might even try to buy a switch that will turn the themos off above 70-80kmph Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted September 2, 2013 Most Thermo fan switches have an off and on temp. The original fan, was only needed in traffic or at standstill. When moving you dont need a fan. Hence the invention of the viscous hub for 1980's onwards. Air pushing against the hub, allows the fan to turn at alternative speeds to engine revs. Less horsepower loss. 1 Crazy2287 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites