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Where to mount Water Temp Sensor. Top hose, bottom hose, tstat, block?

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A few goodies came in the mail today , heres one of them

 

1174928_618241324873581_548258350_n.jpg

 

Where do i mount the sensor? Top hose is pressure.. isnt it ? or. 

 

My block is grout filled so i sorta want to know whats going on all of the time.. I am running an au rad/themos so knowing that they are working / how well they are working would be good

 

The more i think about it , should i just run 2 guages , one top hose one bottom? 

 

Would there be an advantage of using the factory sensor mount instead of the top hose , or the other way around? 

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If its controlling thermo fans IMO, bottom hose. This is because you want Radiator temp/efficiency, not engine temp.

 

If you want to know engine temperature, top hose, but only if your not running a thermostat. If you are running a thermostat, take the temperature form the stok location in the head.

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I run two temp pick-up's 1 on the top hose and another capillary pick-up in the head.When I ran the water pump controller pick-up in the bottom hose the engine would not get up to tempreture...thats bad.So I moved it to the top and it has given me more temp control with a warmer engine but it still doesn't get hot enough IMO.Prob needs a restrictor plate/thermostat to help it TBH as when going to Methanol the issue will only get worse.

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i mucked around with a trans temp gauge once with 2 senders, i used 2 senders, before/after, the 1 gauge but used a switch to flick between which sender it used

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i put mine in the heater fitting for thermo fans, pop out the press in fitting, tap thread, screw in fitting, slide heater hose back over. done.

tridon does fittings in different temperatures for thermo fan switches.

edit just saw this was for water temp gauge. my bad.

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I run two temp pick-up's 1 on the top hose and another capillary pick-up in the head.When I ran the water pump controller pick-up in the bottom hose the engine would not get up to temperature...

This is because that ECU for the electric water pump (EWP) needs to know engine temperature NOT radiator temperature. If you installed it in the bottom hose it would take too long for the ECU to sense a change in temperature so it will assume the sensor has gone cactus and go into engine protection mode. Ie, Pump goes flat out.

If you have a DC-EWP you need to use engine temperature for the controller.

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20130901_124123_zps7e7373fe.jpg

 

 

Ive fitted it here. There was already a cut in the hose, so that made it easy

 

I am running the temp sender for the guage from the block at the moment

 

I am yet to hook up the thermo fan controller. 

 

There is 1 more rad hose/adaptor on its way that im going to run in the bottom hose

 

The controller for the fans will display the temp of the block or top hose. not sure

 

the guage will display the temp from the bottom hose so i can sus weather the thermos are efficent

 

Car seems to sit dead on 80c when moving more than ~50kmph

 

Would that mean i have a 80c Themostat in there? 

 

At the moment the themos run flat out, i do have a manual switch, that i turn off when im starting , and in cold morings leave it off untill the car gets up to temp

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I have two temp gauges in my ute.
One in the thermostat housing to tell me the engine temp

One in the bottom hose to tell me the rad temp.

 

I still have the belt driven pemp and a viscous fan. Fans fucked, can tell cos ya can watch the rad temp play games as it gets hot when I'm not really moving and cools down when I get going. The thermostat works because the engine temp stays the same the whole time once its up to temp (unless I let it overheat, fan again).

 

Gonna leave the belt driven pump, but run AU thermos, probably with a Tridon TFS205 in the bottom hose next to that temp sender. Switches for On/auto/Off for each fan, too.

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is that for a guage on the dash or for a thermo fan switch? If its for a guage that useless as tits on a bull there, unless u have no thermostat it will simply read cold until the thermostat opens for the first time, then it will read the same temp for the rest of the day, it wont give a true indication of anything except that your thermostat has opened at some point.

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I'm confused what you mean.

 

The sender in the thermostat housing tells me the engine temp. When I first start her, it takes a few mins and gets to ~160

The sender in my bottom hose tells me the outlet temp of the rad. I get about half way (about 20kms) to work before I get a reading on this in the mornings. Its only at about 100 by the time I get to work.

The TFS205 will be the switch to operate the fans. The lower temp setting for Fan 1 on low. The higher temp setting for Fan 2 ON and Fan 1 on high.

 

 

I havent got the TFS in yet cos I still have the mechanical fan.
The gauges work fine. When I'm playing around in the bush and it starts getting hot, I can tell cos the rad temp gets to the same temp as the engine, then they both start going up together. Once I get a bit of air moving through the rad, they both start coming down together, except the engine temp settles back down to 160 and the rad temp goes down to whatever

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Sorry chaise that was directed at the OPs picture above your comment, should have quoted it, my bad :D

I was unsure of what i was going to do, that would be why you were confused

 

To clarify

 

there are two senders i will mount

1 in the block, just before the tstat housing. Which will be connected to the Guage/thermo switch (the switch has a reading on it)

Link = http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290567953863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

1 in the bottom hose , For the seperate guage. So i can then tell water temp

 

As it sits now , i basically dont need the thermos to be on at all when im doing ~60kmph+

 

but when im in traffic. after a min or two. the engine temp starts going up. so the thermos arnt doing their job.. I think a higher amp alternator might help. but if i dont have a guage on there i wont really know

 

I have to run a hall effect speedo pickup. due to it having a tr6060 so i might even try to buy a switch that will turn the themos off above 70-80kmph

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Most Thermo fan switches have an off and on temp. The original fan, was only needed in traffic or at standstill. When moving you dont need a fan. Hence the invention of the viscous hub for 1980's onwards. Air pushing against the hub, allows the fan to turn at alternative speeds to engine revs. Less horsepower loss.

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