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Crazy2287 last won the day on July 16 2016

Crazy2287 had the most liked content!

About Crazy2287

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  • Birthday 03/30/1914

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    NSW Naaa
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    My head tastes sideways.

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  1. What I'm saying is. You have the option where you could cut the flexible portion of your line Flair it in 37 degree jic and adapt PTFE braided line to the back of the pump. Might end up cheaper than buying one or two swagelok fittings.
  2. Braided an6 PTFE should take 4000 psi. And all the speedflow fittings or in other words j i c fittings will support that pressure no worries. and you can Ally hard line and bend up your own you will just need a 37 degree flare tool. save yourself mucho dollar Reno.
  3. No issues. Just cost a fickload for him to get his measuring tape out and ask a couple questions... It'sa crock, I know my work is quality, But it's done now so if I get pulled up for anything it's all on the report. It's there to protect us from dodgy cunts building dangerous cars so I guess it has a place. Just shit it's gotta cost the legit people so much dosh.
  4. Passed e-AVIS inspection and engineering, Should have Club rego before the end of the month!
  5. If it is a sticky injector then only a single cylinder will be over fueling,simple check of the spark plugs will show if something is wrong in this manner. If all spark plugs are identical, it will be issue caused by control.
  6. When my temperature sensor shut itself I took it to 3 mechanics before one of them was switched on enough to replace the coolant temp sensor and fix the car. This was back in the day when I was a young fella and had no idea what I was doing.
  7. Also, check water temp sensor, its the 3 wire one that feeds the ECU. NOT the single wire one in the front of the head. I've Had one of them shit itself before and it caused the exact symptoms you described. It can be tested by checking it's range using a multimeter set to resistence and putting it boiling and ice water and recording that result.l and comparing to known values. I should still have the values recorded somewhere from mine if you get that far.
  8. If you do disconnect the afm and it makes no difference to how it idels/revs, then I would start there. Should have a 5v, earth, signal from r the afm and 2 other wres that are air temp sensor. From memory... It's been a while.
  9. Solid Thom, Good to see you're still spinnin' spanners on the old girl.
  10. Got some QFM A1RM pads all round. As i've got the e series diff, got the suitable pads. Rocked up, Fit form function looked good. The backing plate was not as goo a quality as the Bendex, but whatever. Right up until i tried to fit the rear pads. And the Inner pad (Piston side) woul NOT clip in. I had clamps and shit on there. It just would not. Something going on with the backing plate, In the end i had to grind the clip off the QFM pads, and weld my bendex pad's clips onto it. Just wanted to share that little first world problem. Not even fuggin Brake pads are bolt on anymore. Farq.
  11. So, It has been a while. Have not bothered too much since the great Photobucket fallout of 2017 killed my vibe. I'm going to try and get used to Imgur, see how it goes. Have been busy, But FK all on Betty. Spent 4.5 months doing a big overhaul on the 4x4. Eng mounts, turbos, injectors, remote oil filters, intercoolers, Diesel VE pumps Just heaps of shit. On the plus side the old truck is running well now. I've tidied up a few other loose ends and finally managed to turn spanners on Betty again. First up was to get the Coil overs in the front. Which began with disassembly of the front suspension and measurements of balljoint angels and UCA travel. Ends up the UCA was contacting the body of the car at full travel. I already knew about this, but it was getting serious. I ground some material off the UCA for clearance *PIC* If you're ever fitting these Viking coil over front kits, be sure to note the 'T' bar's reliefs are not narrow enough to suit the UCA mounting position, and they foul on the UCA. I got a couple washers and shaved an edge off em to locate onto the bar and stop it from diggin into the UCA. Will also help distribute the load on the arm, which can only be a good thing. Bonus, this assembly weigh half what the factory setup weighs. After grinding the back of the UCA I got the UCA and the upper ball joint binding at about the same time. Took some measurements and set about building some new bump stop assembly. Used a generic rubber bump off ebay, $10 each. The UCA strikes the stop with 10mm travel to spare. The design of the bump stop allows 25mm upward adjustment. Downward can be done with spacers or washers. This allows me to change the UCA pivot attachment point back to factory if i want. (Shelby drop) Not sure if they will be strong enough, but if everything goes to plan i'll never have to use them. Bent the 15mm RHS steel in the press. The stop mount is cut from 3mm wall 25x50 RHS. Nifty design feature, the bolts slip between the 15mm RHS and hold it from spinning, so i don't need 2 spanners to fix the hardware. Here showing the lowest position, Where the wheels sit in the guard. And the finished product in, Of course, Blllllaaaaaack Wen ahead and fitted brake rotors that were freshly machined, Only to find that run out was 0.15mm. Almost double the factory maximum tolerance of 0.08. I was a bit upset at them, One friggin job. Took em back, they had another crack and got them to 0.10mm. So still out. Could have been wasting that time on bumpstops (I asked myself several times what i was wasting so many hours making fuggin bump stops...) Anyway They assured me that it would not cause any issues. I told em i would be happy with that, so long as tehy stand by it. So I got them to guarantee no runout induced brake issues for at least 1500-2000km and had them record it on my wheel alignment paperwork. I also pulled the fuel lift pump out to check how it was going. Found the pump was slipping out of the hose. So i put a hose clamp on the housing and tightened the fuel hoses, hose clamp a bit more. That is all.
  12. haha, well you could run "really low boost" no worries. keep it below 4psi, and don't rev it over 4700rpm, couple clicks on the spring in the AFM to keep it rich. keep it under 160rwhp. will probably work... maybe. but you're going to run out of injector and as soon as you change the injector you're gonna need to ditch the ecu unless you "trick" it into fueling properly but it will never run right. thats a guess. If you know of someone who's running stock efi system boosted i'm interested to hear how it went.
  13. The bulky pillars that limit vision are mainly part of a juggle between the safety cell "occupant protection", cosmetics and function. To make the cars sexy and safe they end up this way. There is no way around it, new cars practically have a roll cage built into the cabin pillars. And the result is large pillars and blind spots. Its your job as the vehicle pilot to be aware of these limitations and act accordingly. Id rather that then the sticks that they called pillars in old cars that just held the roof on. Yes, i can see a LOT better in my 89 isuzu trooper or 80's falcon then i can in my 2016 falcob. But i know what car id rather be in if the 2 were to collide.
  14. The reason a range is used, such as 10-14nm, Is because that torque is likely set by the fixing hardware. Not component specific or critical. Generic values are sometimes given as a range. You can usually get generic fixing torques from the standard practice sections of the manual. There will be a table which offers a torque range based on bolt size, tensile strength, locking mechanism (Nylon insert) and thread lubrication. Other times, It may be hardware that has mechanical locking. Like a split pin or lock wire, You can go to the lower torque, and tighten further till the locking solution is aligned (you can get the split pin in). Or it may be a bolt that requires re-torques. In this case you go to the maximum torque (14nm). Then when the re-torque is due, you go to a lower torque for the torque check (12nm) and ensure the bolt does not turn before the lower torque is reached, this indicates it has retained it's torque, and there is no cause for alarm, if it does move, there may be hardware or component failure. If you set the re-torque to 14nm, and the nut turns, it may be due to hardware failure, or, it could just be due to inconsistencies in the torque wrench or small changes in temperature changing the clamping force (torque) slightly. and you wont know. So you have to treat it as a failure anyway, even though there is a good chance it wasn't. and finally, If it's hardware with a sealing surface, If it leaks, you can increase torque to the maximum. If it still leaks once the upper of the range is reached, Its time to replace the o-ring or machine the mating surfaces.
  15. Acceleration of the adoption of pure electric vehicles is going to drive this more than any other factor so it's really a moot point. As production of oil drops and pump prices increase, battery tech improves, and electric cars start costing less than 30k new, there's no reason left to be burning dinosaur juice. Some will keep their ICE cars, and that is how it should be, they don't need to be punitive or regulatory to the consumer. The big auto and oil are the only reason we are not all driving electric cars now. It's not consumer driven, there is simply more money in the ICE tech for the big business. Edit: Of course i mean this on topic, as the adoption of electric vehicles happens, we will see an entire generation of ICE vehicles being made redundant and traded a decade before they would be otherwise. As everyone purchases electric cars with, auto drive, calculating cautious, efficient piloting decisions hundreds of times faster than humans can. with the technology applied to wheel electric motors stability control is vastly superior to what is capable using ABS and ICE systems. The single biggest revolution in transport we will likely see until we can get on a Space craft and go to Mars.