Crazy2287

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Crazy2287 last won the day on July 16 2016

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About Crazy2287

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  • Birthday 03/30/1914

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    NSW Naaa
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    My head tastes sideways.

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  1. Csc throw is controlled by the master cylinder. Both the master cylinders Travel and bore size. Travel can be set by changing the travel at the pedal (moving your fooyt more), or moving the Masters push rod up or down the pedal. Dean is correct wrt the setting. As the clutch wears you may even need to remove shims. When I did mine I followed quarter masters install instructions. And I got the required travel at the clutch by contacting exceedy. Then used the ratio between the Csc and the master to figure out the travel I'd get.
  2. having done 3 4jbt1+transmission R+I's and several gearbox only R+I's, yes. You need to lower the gearbox significantly so you can feed a long extension bar over the top of the gearbox to get to the 14mm bolts on top. The gearbox is heavy and a total PITA too because of the transfer case. you'll need up to 3 jacks (1 at front, 1 at rear and 1 on tx case), and a ratchet strap from the rad support to the engine, to angle the engine, to position the gearbox to reinstall. The angle may be quite high too as the gearbox typically hits the tunnel as you try to slide it back and off the input spline. Might not be to crazy if you're leaving the gearbox in. I made an adjustable dolly that bolts to my jack and holds the gearbox for install to make this process a lot easier. I recommend when you transplant, replace all the coolant lines that run around the engine, as the rear lines are nearly impossible to change wile the engine is in the car. I have a workshop manual that should be mostly relevant for the rodeo engine if you need it. It is for a jackaroo series 4jb1t, but there were only a few changes in the later model engines.
  3. Be careful with fueling racing ya madman, specially this early in the tune. Be pretty shitty to go hard and come home with old Rodney renovating a new open plan living arrangement. (Videos plz, Love Sly's new FI direction.)
  4. Give us a pic or a link mate. Usually the lower mount/pivot on the alternator can be pressed to a new position. So you should only have to align the top mount...
  5. If there is shit and there isn't sick, then where? ... Sorrynotsorry
  6. Allright i'm game. I was looking for IP cameras for my Synology NAS. For home surveillance. I was looking for something <$150 per camera Compatible with synology security station: https://www.synology.com/en-global/compatibility/camera PoE as i want to hardwire to a PoE switch then into gigabit LAN 1080p minimum https://www.amazon.com.au/Reolink-2560x1920-Surveillance-Detection-RLC-420-5MP/dp/B077N7J2C4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542872671&sr=1-1&keywords=rlc+420 Open to recommendations.
  7. Good to hear a recap of the week. And good to hear the tuning and EFI is slowly winning your over? Am Keen to see it. Don't plumb back those bleed valves, they are sick as is. Don't be a sook.
  8. Sweet build brosef!
  9. If your good at these enges now, wanna come pull the one outta my 87 Integra? It needs a freshen up for turbo. Also, following thread.
  10. According to specifications for raceworks ptfe 200series in an8 can take 4kpsi and minus 70 to plus 250dec c. In which case you can terminate it yourself using 200series lines to make the flexible lines. Use annealed ally hardline in something like an6 for high side and an10 for low side. And just single flare everything to 37deg jic flare. This way you don't have to worry about o rings or corrosion. And you will only need bulkhead fittings where you put flexible lines. Everywhere else can pass through with a grommet. Probably save yourself a bit of dosh. That is how I'd do it anyway. Love me some well made hardlines. Also you can get reciever driers with male Flair's so you can terminate the Hardline stright to them. And use the 3rd fitting as the high side service port.
  11. If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI. Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability) If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast.
  12. Pretty sure they need a specific gas and lubricant. R1234? And a high dialectric lubricant. Might be hard/expensive to source the right stuff.
  13. Yes an fittings will work. All the stuff you use must be rated for at least 600psi on the high side. Can charge with r290 and buy the equipment to do it yourself... Set you back about 250bucks inc gas. But building the lines will be the real test. Weird fittings up the wahzoo.
  14. You're in Melbourne complaining of heat? IMO aircon probable isnt worth the headache, especially if you need to custom make all the pipework. It will cost a lota a moola and your car's not going to go any faster... actually probably go slower. That money will buy a lot of slushies and soft serv cones.