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Crazy2287 last won the day on July 16 2016

Crazy2287 had the most liked content!

About Crazy2287

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/30/1914

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  • Location
    NSW Naaa
  • Interests
    My head tastes sideways.

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  1. Crazy2287

    T5 oil (710)

    DXIII, as has already been stated, Is the Tremec approved oil for WC T5 gearboxes. IMO, Don't run additives as a general rule. But i have used G70 in T5's before, with no harm done. But this was before I learnt what I now know about oils. If you want to learn some garbage, read on. Otherwise you can stop here. Experimentally i recently did research for a fully synthetic replacement for DXIII that would be suitable for the T5. To help it with Heat and pressure stress from track use (abuse?) I have since started using Pentrite ATF FS. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-fs-full-syn#/ I purchased a 20L drum and use it (almost) wherever DXII or DXIII is specified. I have only done about 5,000km so far with the oil in my T5, and am having good results thus far. However it is way too early to say there wont be long term issues. So if you want the safe bet, go DXIII. I decided to use Penrite ATF FS as an experement in my T5 since my 2nd-3rd shift under power was blocking. I suspected it was rooted and am expecting to replace (or rebuild) the box sometime. But after replacing the DXIII oil with ATF FS, shifting in all gears has improved and the shift up to 3rd does not block me under power anymore. To expand on that, the oil i removed was stressed, having been used for a track day. So simply replacing the oil with fresh DXIII may have had the same effect. So don't go running around telling people that the ATF FS will fix shitty T5's. To expand on that, Tremec themselves do TELL us in the T5 manual, to change the oil regularly. Especially in severe use conditions. Using a fully synthetic may improve longevity of the oil when compared to DXIII. This is all just conjecture. And without spending a lot of time and money driving, switching oils and doing oil trend analysis, that is not going to change. If someone wants to sponsor me i'll go ahead and get started? No? ... Damn
  2. Crazy2287

    Crossflow Lifter Noise

    oil pressure is a balance between restriction to flow and flow capacity. Capacity (C) comes from the pump and increases with RPM. Restriction is caused by the viscosity (V) of the oil and the sum of all of the size of the gaps your pushing it though (T). I guess it could look like P = (CxRPM)/(VxT) Pressure and flow (F) in the system are inversely related. P=/=F F = CxRPMxTxV You need to use whichever oil gives the flow you require, and provides sufficient film strength to protect the moving components. Do not be alarmed if your digital gauge is only showing 2 bars of pressure when at operating temp and at idle. This is fine. I would be more alarmed if your pressure was 2 bars over half when full. There is a misconception that thick oil = better protections and this is not always the case. Having oil that is too thick increases the risk of damage from thermal fracturing and Shearing of the VI's. It also reduces the ability of the oil to cool and increases load on the rotating assembly and the oil pump, costing efficiency. Too thin and it wont provide sufficient film strength. There's obviously a lot more science in oils but i think that should sort you out.
  3. Crazy2287

    140amp Alternator for the 250 cross flow

    Give us a pic or a link mate. Usually the lower mount/pivot on the alternator can be pressed to a new position. So you should only have to align the top mount...
  4. Crazy2287

    Crossflow Options

    If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI. Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability) If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast.
  5. Crazy2287


  6. Crazy2287


    I used mine to do several engines (before one of my mates burrowed it and fucked it somehow) I removed the top bit,, cut the cups off that goes over the valve spring, and welded some flat steel in there, then reattached the cups. I did it in such a way as to correct the alignment of the tool when it is clamped. Before i did this, the tool was, as you say, useless. But after the mod i used it several times on a couple different engines over the course of a few years. I'd take a pic to show what i mean but i never got it back.
  7. Have heard about this. I Though I had quite a bit wound into the front but still heaps of room. Maby it's because I run small tires? The wheel alignment guy reconed it was too much caster, even for track work and we agreed to take .5 off it. Heaps of clearance to the bumper. Still oversteers well before under steering, so there is no need to go more agressive (yet)
  8. You will have plenty of adjustability in both camber and caster. Don't worry about it too much.
  9. Your grease mod for those bushes, the pivot pin clamps the gussett/centre sleeve when the pivot is done up. All the rotating is done on the inner. Or did you drill right through the bush so the grease gets to the inner?
  10. Crazy2287

    Crossflow upgrade for jet boat

    Flying into Queenstown on wednesday next week. If you get a cam before then I can bring it over for ya.
  11. Crazy2287

    Crossflow upgrade for jet boat

    If you have adjustable timing gear you can always advance or retard the cam to get the peak torque where you need it. So don't be too scared of getting a cam that says it performs at 5500 RPM because you can just put in a couple of degrees advanced and bring that torque down to the 4500 RPM Mark.
  12. Crazy2287

    Brake booster rebuild

    Hey I'm digging this. Already turning out to be an awesome diy thread!
  13. Crazy2287

    The tyre clearance v's bump stop thread

    I never scraped the guard with 245's and I've not rolled the guard. I dunno how low you guys are going but from a steering geometry point of view it's not fiesable to have a 17" wheel tucking in the front of an Xfal. Even with all my mods it would be difficult to get the wheel to tuck in practice and cornering performance would suffer if I did. Not to mention banging off the ball joint or bumpstops. I pulled the spring out and even with modded ball joint mount this is as much tuck as can be acheaved at ball joint bind. And in the rear, my tailshaft hits the tunnel, even though I've cut and raised the tunnel. And the rears don't tuck. So if you want to tuck, your gonna need bigger than 17's or run big sidewall truck tyres.
  14. Crazy2287

    The tyre clearance v's bump stop thread

    245's on 17" rims and Shelby drop. would rub on bump stop plates. Was not real bad, took a long time before it started to get through the paint. 3 mm offset or spacer would have sorted it in my case. I'm running homemade bumpstops now so heaps of clearance.