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Crazy2287

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Crazy2287 last won the day on July 16 2016

Crazy2287 had the most liked content!

About Crazy2287

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/30/1914

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    NSW Naaa
  • Interests
    My head tastes sideways.

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  1. Crazy2287

    NSW Historic Rego

    Hi guys, there is some changes that Ozfal needs to go though and some expensive paperwork to get the club internationally registered (it cost money to register). Until we can find a way to implement and execute these required changes we cannot get club vehicle registration in NSW.
  2. Cheers. I've thought about got ng smd for a few components on the v2 board if I ever make one. Depends on demand. But I don't have the proper hardware to populate surface mount pcb's so through hole discreet is much easier.
  3. Did some updates. Big DAV is currently testing it (he's a bloody legend). If we have good results i'll start accepting returns to have this mod added to other units. All future units will be sold with it already incorporated. In the mean time, here is the list of changes, Incorporation steps and circuit diagram. The below is in Beta and still under testing. 21feb19 Schematic updated to V2.0 Alpha Created version for operation on analogue gauges. Incorporates delay circuit to prevent fuel slosh causing erratic needle movements. Various fixes added to correct problems with linearity of reading.caused by improper transistor biasing. r7 added to control feedback from C4, causing voltage spike on power disconnection. D4 added to force Q1 into linear area of operation. also aids in increasing range of adjust ability for low level calibration. u1 changed to L7810 (10v) voltage reg to improve linear operation of Q1 c4 added to give average reading on output S2, toggle switch to disable the delay, to make calibration easier. r2 and r3 values changed to enable voltage limiter and delay to function. Voltage limiter now operates closed loop to improve cutoff characteristics. Mod to ver 1.0 board to upgrade. 1.) D4 - Remove and short 2.) R7 - Remove and short 3.) U1 - Replace with a 9v regulator 4.) R3 - Replace with 5kohm resister 5.) R8 - Replace with 5k6ohm resister 6.) Open ratline - D3 pos to R5/R2. Cut and make open circuit 7.) Jump - D3 pos to Q1c 8.) Open Ratline - Q2b/D2 to R3. Cut and make open circuit 9.) Jump - Install 1k8ohm (R9*) resister and standard diode (D4) A.) Install R9 to Q2b/D2 junction. B.) Install D4 neg to R9 c.) Install D4 pos to R3/D2 junction 10.) Install capacitor (C4) and switch (S2) A.) Install C4 pos to R9/D4 junction D.) Install c4 neg to S2 pin 1 c.) Install S2 pin 2 to ground Mod complete. *In the diagram, R9 is represented as R7. This is because the diagram shows the v2 circuit and does not align with the v1.0 circuit. Please note, In the diagram R8 should be 5k6
  4. Yep, got 2 left. Ones pulled apart on my bench pending a mod for non-digital clusters which i hope to finish in the next day or 2, the other is ready to ship.
  5. Crazy2287

    BGDAV 408, T56, 4.11s

    Csc throw is controlled by the master cylinder. Both the master cylinders Travel and bore size. Travel can be set by changing the travel at the pedal (moving your fooyt more), or moving the Masters push rod up or down the pedal. Dean is correct wrt the setting. As the clutch wears you may even need to remove shims. When I did mine I followed quarter masters install instructions. And I got the required travel at the clutch by contacting exceedy. Then used the ratio between the Csc and the master to figure out the travel I'd get.
  6. Crazy2287

    Rodeo 4JB1-T 2.8TD engine removal

    having done 3 4jbt1+transmission R+I's and several gearbox only R+I's, yes. You need to lower the gearbox significantly so you can feed a long extension bar over the top of the gearbox to get to the 14mm bolts on top. The gearbox is heavy and a total PITA too because of the transfer case. you'll need up to 3 jacks (1 at front, 1 at rear and 1 on tx case), and a ratchet strap from the rad support to the engine, to angle the engine, to position the gearbox to reinstall. The angle may be quite high too as the gearbox typically hits the tunnel as you try to slide it back and off the input spline. Might not be to crazy if you're leaving the gearbox in. I made an adjustable dolly that bolts to my jack and holds the gearbox for install to make this process a lot easier. I recommend when you transplant, replace all the coolant lines that run around the engine, as the rear lines are nearly impossible to change wile the engine is in the car. I have a workshop manual that should be mostly relevant for the rodeo engine if you need it. It is for a jackaroo series 4jb1t, but there were only a few changes in the later model engines.
  7. Crazy2287

    Slydog's XF ute.

    Be careful with fueling racing ya madman, specially this early in the tune. Be pretty shitty to go hard and come home with old Rodney renovating a new open plan living arrangement. (Videos plz, Love Sly's new FI direction.)
  8. Crazy2287

    140amp Alternator for the 250 cross flow

    Give us a pic or a link mate. Usually the lower mount/pivot on the alternator can be pressed to a new position. So you should only have to align the top mount...
  9. Crazy2287

    Slydog's XF ute.

    If there is shit and there isn't sick, then where? ... Sorrynotsorry
  10. Crazy2287

    Buying CCTV system

    Allright i'm game. I was looking for IP cameras for my Synology NAS. For home surveillance. I was looking for something <$150 per camera Compatible with synology security station: https://www.synology.com/en-global/compatibility/camera PoE as i want to hardwire to a PoE switch then into gigabit LAN 1080p minimum https://www.amazon.com.au/Reolink-2560x1920-Surveillance-Detection-RLC-420-5MP/dp/B077N7J2C4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542872671&sr=1-1&keywords=rlc+420 Open to recommendations.
  11. Crazy2287

    Slydog's XF ute.

    Good to hear a recap of the week. And good to hear the tuning and EFI is slowly winning your over? Am Keen to see it. Don't plumb back those bleed valves, they are sick as is. Don't be a sook.
  12. Crazy2287

    Here we go again .

    Sweet build brosef!
  13. Crazy2287

    Polson's Prelude Project

    If your good at these enges now, wanna come pull the one outta my 87 Integra? It needs a freshen up for turbo. Also, following thread.
  14. Crazy2287

    BGDAV 408, T56, 4.11s

    According to specifications for raceworks ptfe 200series in an8 can take 4kpsi and minus 70 to plus 250dec c. In which case you can terminate it yourself using 200series lines to make the flexible lines. Use annealed ally hardline in something like an6 for high side and an10 for low side. And just single flare everything to 37deg jic flare. This way you don't have to worry about o rings or corrosion. And you will only need bulkhead fittings where you put flexible lines. Everywhere else can pass through with a grommet. Probably save yourself a bit of dosh. That is how I'd do it anyway. Love me some well made hardlines. Also you can get reciever driers with male Flair's so you can terminate the Hardline stright to them. And use the 3rd fitting as the high side service port.
  15. Crazy2287

    Crossflow Options

    If your keeping the crossflow and stock EFI, then keep the engine stock. No point fucking around chucking money at it to go faster while it's got the factory EFI. Carbys work, but it is 2018. You can put an aftermarket EFI solution on fully installed for under $1k if you do it yourself. Then tune it as cranky/mental as you want with all the benefits that come with efi and after market computer (full tuneability) If you were smart you would fit a Barra and be done with it. There are a few of us that have a disease and love spending money on crossflows to go slow. Myself included. But I know deep down I could have spent half on a Barra conversion and gone twice as fast.
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