Crazy2287

What it says on the box. The stock EFI temp sensor on a crossy. 0.5ºC - 86650 Ω 19.0ºC - 26000 Ω 99.8ºC - 2130 Ω For use in aftermarket ECU if retaining the factory sensor. I'm doing a huckout and I Just found the bit of paper i wrote this on circa 2006. Also, stock injectors 0280150-726 # 86DA-AA 18.66lb/H (196cc/m) 14.0ohm Est max hp 39.

Give us a review after a few hundy KM!

If you can fit an elec water pump in the lower rad hose area of the bay, then you could cut the whole front off the pump and cap it up.

install a float type sender?

Dx3 is what most of us use in the astra pumps as this suits our power steering pump, and I've heard of no reported failures yet.

Great info, thanks.

If you get a sender that has a range that is greater than the desired range for the instrument cluster, you can just adjust the length and position of the float arm to use the portion of the rheostat that matches the range required by the days. That is, design the float arm. So that it contacts the bottom of the fuel tank when the sender is at the "empty" resistance value and contacts the top of the fuel tank at the... You guessed it, "full" resistance. Older dash from x series like the digital dash won't work unless you use a box in-between to convert the resistance into volts.

LNice thread mine. These days I use a medium-small size slide hammer with a fitting, that slips in and hooks over the back of the bearing. Wouldn't re use the bearing though if pulled out in this way. And for aligning clutch I have the input drive of a t5 I pulled out of one I broke. I've not seen spigot bearings without sealed race, if it's a serviceable/exposed cage style bearing then yeah I can see where the troubles lie. Good idea jamming paper in against the bearing to seal it and get it to work though.

WIL14010220 1 WIL14010220 KIT,FRONT,MUSTANG 70-73,BIG BRAKE,RADIAL WIL2209195 1 WIL2209195 FLEXLINE KIT,FRONT,MUSTANG,70-73 That is my part numbers. I measured a lot of points off some xf stub axels and it all matches the mustang stuff. The kit will offset wheel track +1mm so nothing to worry about. And it will fit my 17" rims, but NOT all 17" rims. Remember, I HAVE not fitted these yet. So I don't know if they even will fit and work. So no one rush out thinking you can bolt these on. Be assured when I fit them, if they work. I'll make a thread Application is for tarmac racing. (I'm not a pro racer or anything though so don't take any advice from me on that.)

Geez, don't tell me this now, I got 3k worth of willwood front brake gear sitting in a box waiting for me to get home so I can install it. Though I did do a lot of research and talked with Willwood reps and could not fault them before the purchase. The fault lies with the "kits" available in australia. They are not the race spec components and are either for drag cars or for giving street cars some bling. Real race rotors need thermal mass, NO drilling, slots only. Curved vein ventilator, 2 piece and no dust boots on a stainless piston. Their race calipers, apparently, and made specially to maximise stiffness you can see flow and stress simulations on their website. The aussie kits do not use these components. The kit I have, I imported direct from Willwood to the specs I wanted, So I hope it's good, this is the second time in a week I've heard a rumour of Willwood been crappy... :S

The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more. Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china.

Dean is right. Should be a simple thing to get the xh tank and gauge working in a different body.

Epic, thanks for sharing!

I should clarify. Line pressure is pressure in the brake system. Braking effort, is the work done. Or how effectively the car slows down. Braking force is the force exerted onto the brake pad.