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Crazy2287 last won the day on July 16 2016

Crazy2287 had the most liked content!

About Crazy2287

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/30/1914

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    NSW Naaa
  • Interests
    My head tastes sideways.

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  1. Crazy2287

    Slotted rotors or standard?

    Goes both ways. I have T2's on mine and wanted them machined. They had no run-out but did have a slight taper due to some heavy abuse. Took it in to be machined at a reputable specialist. Got it back, taper was gone, but now the rotor had run-out that was more than double the factory max tolerance. Took it back and said 'Oi!' They run em up again, but still the run-out was not within factory spec. I know by this point I've wasted man hours pulling thebortors off and putting em back on, and they could not try to mahine again as the rotor would become too thin. They assured me it would be fine, and i got them to sign a receipt and put a 10,000km warranty on it. Just in case it ended up with pulsation or uneven contact and they'd buy me some new T2's. Anyway, morale to the story, with single piece rotor and hubs, it's probably best to just get them replaced. Or have them machined on the car. they are difficult to machine off the car due to the inbuilt bearing cups and require a very accurate jig to get right.
  2. Big oil and auto has already held the electric car back 15 years. remember when they were temporarily released in the early 2000? There's a whole thing about that. But you could easily argue that battery tech may have been sufficient much earlier then that. But it would probably be hard to pinpoint what time it might have been viable since there is evidence of big oil and auto crushing the tech to prevent the advancement of any competition, and who knows how far back that goes. maby as far as the 1900's if you really wanted to get into the conspiracy theory.
  3. You're correct. It's, 250ish for Tesla and 260ish for Porsche. Rimac get north of 300 but has a 2 speed rear. Anyway, my point remains, very few people use a car north of 250kph. I am hopeful for battery tech. I do expect charging times in the 0-80% for a sub 100kwh battery to realistically reach sub 10min and to offer north of 400km range within the next 10 years. Porsche can already do that in 15min but at 300mile peak range it is probably a bit under the 400km. So I think 10 years is very conservative. I'd trust an autonomous car more than 50% of people whom hold a licence. And am hopeful that we can cancel licences and start jamming the really shitty drivers into self driving cars within the next 5 years. Although I'm been a bit too optimistic that the cost of such cars will be cheap enough by that stage for people to afford them. Which is gonna take a lot longer I think.
  4. Those single gear electric cars can reach speeds in excess of 300km and sprint 0-100 in under 3 seconds. Ice is a dieing tech and we should let it die. There is no fathomable way it can match a pure ev for efficency. With Australia's land mass and location we would have no issue at all finding the space to erect the required solar arrays to power the country. However, imo we should be building nuclear power generators to fill the gap between now and when solar and wind become fully integrated. Australia's aversion to nuclear is just silly. And as for charging stations everywhere? Yes please. But it's really a non issue. Charging times are decreasing rapidly as tech improves. It will be no more inconvenient to stopping at the servo for 10minutes. No need to have charging stations littering the street. There would be charging lots just like there are servos for people whom don't have their own garage space. But this is all assuming cars are not fully autonomous.in which case car ownership will die and be left to the rich and the hobbiests.
  5. It is more efficient to charge an electric car with a diesel generator than to put that diesel in the most efficient diesel vehicle and drive the same distance. There is no valid argument against electric cars from an efficency or environmental standpoint. Even if 100% of the energy that powers them comes from coal.
  6. https://www.caradvice.com.au/801643/electric-crate-motor-turns-any-classic-into-an-ev/
  7. Crazy2287

    crossflow roller rockers

    You can use a die grinder on the back of the rockers and on the close tolerance parts of the rocker cover to get clearance. Only some of the rockers hit, most clear. My Yella Terra rollers and rocker cover are machined like this and it gave enough clearance for a 510" lift hyd cam. Using a paper gasket and factory intake setup, everything cleared. Though it hit when I upgraded to a 535" lift. Instead of increasing the machining, I got a piece of 4mm Ally. And used a jigsaw to cut it into a spacer to go under the cover using a paper gasket on each side. Cost me fk all and has been working for years.
  8. Crazy2287

    crossflow roller rockers

    You'll have to burrow a sniffer, or buy a wideband and gauge combo and built it into your own sniffer. Or buy a stand alone wideband and permanently install it.
  9. Crazy2287

    crossflow roller rockers

    Yeah. Sniffer is an o2 sensor on a clamp that you can fit temporarily to the tailpipe.
  10. Crazy2287

    crossflow roller rockers

    Chuck a wideband sniffer in and adjust the vein to get favourable afr. Should run okay. Interested to hear how it goes.
  11. Crazy2287

    WARNING - Ultra King shock absorbers = DANGER!

    Have had an ultra king do this, and the shock oil went all over the spring saddle and away bar bushes and they fell to bits too. An XF ghia had these fitted when I got it. I found the valving the ultra king quite firm, and I like a firm shock. Just this happened. I'm pretty sure Ultima are not ultra king. Ultima come with a very good warranty. Have em in my 4x4 and in the Elgrand. No issues here. And my local suspension mob gave em a solid plug.
  12. Crazy2287

    Koni Shock Settings

    I'm running max stiff in the rear. (Only have koni in rear) It depends on what you want, street strip or drag. You generally want rebound to be firmer then compression. But this also depends on spring rate. Also how high is the car and how far from the bump stops. I use a stiff shock in the rear to stop my tail shaft slapping the tunnel. And for track.
  13. Crazy2287

    DANGER! Never use cheap fuses in your vehicle!

    I have 3, 10 Dolla meters for all my garbage work. Only get the good one out for electronics. And surpringly, the one time I had a meter screw me around for bad volts reading it was my good one, reading incorrectly due to a low battery. So even if your spending $100 bucks on a meter it's still not really reliable until your getting a quality brand unit and then it may be costing multiple hundreds. I did have a 600 Dolla meter and the screen shit itself just out of warranty.
  14. Crazy2287

    DANGER! Never use cheap fuses in your vehicle!

    Thanks for the heads up! But I'm not surprised... Not even a little bit... Now i want to test my fuses. This can and should be applied to anything you purchase, especially from ebay and ESPECIALLY if it looks like its from china. It's easier to assume that what your buying has been manufactured to the poorest standard they can get away with, and the advertising is a great big lie. Then you gotta ask yourself "What are the consequences if what i purchase is the worst case scenario" And if the consequences are acceptable. You can continue with the purchase. I could go on but i wont. Suffice to say, always be skeptical. I've even caught Jaycar peddling the same low quality Chinese garbage. (Disclaimer: Not everything from china is garbage. But it's all definitely high risk) I like his Milliohm meter. The ones I use are cumbersome devices and connecting them to the target is usually frustrating due to having 4 contact points. His one has integrated each contact into 1/2 of the alligator clip.
  15. Crazy2287

    T5 oil (710)

    DXIII, as has already been stated, Is the Tremec approved oil for WC T5 gearboxes. IMO, Don't run additives as a general rule. But i have used G70 in T5's before, with no harm done. But this was before I learnt what I now know about oils. If you want to learn some garbage, read on. Otherwise you can stop here. Experimentally i recently did research for a fully synthetic replacement for DXIII that would be suitable for the T5. To help it with Heat and pressure stress from track use (abuse?) I have since started using Pentrite ATF FS. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-fs-full-syn#/ I purchased a 20L drum and use it (almost) wherever DXII or DXIII is specified. I have only done about 5,000km so far with the oil in my T5, and am having good results thus far. However it is way too early to say there wont be long term issues. So if you want the safe bet, go DXIII. I decided to use Penrite ATF FS as an experement in my T5 since my 2nd-3rd shift under power was blocking. I suspected it was rooted and am expecting to replace (or rebuild) the box sometime. But after replacing the DXIII oil with ATF FS, shifting in all gears has improved and the shift up to 3rd does not block me under power anymore. To expand on that, the oil i removed was stressed, having been used for a track day. So simply replacing the oil with fresh DXIII may have had the same effect. So don't go running around telling people that the ATF FS will fix shitty T5's. To expand on that, Tremec themselves do TELL us in the T5 manual, to change the oil regularly. Especially in severe use conditions. Using a fully synthetic may improve longevity of the oil when compared to DXIII. This is all just conjecture. And without spending a lot of time and money driving, switching oils and doing oil trend analysis, that is not going to change. If someone wants to sponsor me i'll go ahead and get started? No? ... Damn