Crazy2287

What it says on the box. The stock EFI temp sensor on a crossy. 0.5ºC - 86650 Ω 19.0ºC - 26000 Ω 99.8ºC - 2130 Ω For use in aftermarket ECU if retaining the factory sensor. I'm doing a huckout and I Just found the bit of paper i wrote this on circa 2006. Also, stock injectors 0280150-726 # 86DA-AA 18.66lb/H (196cc/m) 14.0ohm Est max hp 39.

Give us a review after a few hundy KM!

If you can fit an elec water pump in the lower rad hose area of the bay, then you could cut the whole front off the pump and cap it up.

install a float type sender?

Dx3 is what most of us use in the astra pumps as this suits our power steering pump, and I've heard of no reported failures yet.

Great info, thanks.

If you get a sender that has a range that is greater than the desired range for the instrument cluster, you can just adjust the length and position of the float arm to use the portion of the rheostat that matches the range required by the days. That is, design the float arm. So that it contacts the bottom of the fuel tank when the sender is at the "empty" resistance value and contacts the top of the fuel tank at the... You guessed it, "full" resistance. Older dash from x series like the digital dash won't work unless you use a box in-between to convert the resistance into volts.

LNice thread mine. These days I use a medium-small size slide hammer with a fitting, that slips in and hooks over the back of the bearing. Wouldn't re use the bearing though if pulled out in this way. And for aligning clutch I have the input drive of a t5 I pulled out of one I broke. I've not seen spigot bearings without sealed race, if it's a serviceable/exposed cage style bearing then yeah I can see where the troubles lie. Good idea jamming paper in against the bearing to seal it and get it to work though.

WIL14010220 1 WIL14010220 KIT,FRONT,MUSTANG 70-73,BIG BRAKE,RADIAL WIL2209195 1 WIL2209195 FLEXLINE KIT,FRONT,MUSTANG,70-73 That is my part numbers. I measured a lot of points off some xf stub axels and it all matches the mustang stuff. The kit will offset wheel track +1mm so nothing to worry about. And it will fit my 17" rims, but NOT all 17" rims. Remember, I HAVE not fitted these yet. So I don't know if they even will fit and work. So no one rush out thinking you can bolt these on. Be assured when I fit them, if they work. I'll make a thread Application is for tarmac racing. (I'm not a pro racer or anything though so don't take any advice from me on that.)

Geez, don't tell me this now, I got 3k worth of willwood front brake gear sitting in a box waiting for me to get home so I can install it. Though I did do a lot of research and talked with Willwood reps and could not fault them before the purchase. The fault lies with the "kits" available in australia. They are not the race spec components and are either for drag cars or for giving street cars some bling. Real race rotors need thermal mass, NO drilling, slots only. Curved vein ventilator, 2 piece and no dust boots on a stainless piston. Their race calipers, apparently, and made specially to maximise stiffness you can see flow and stress simulations on their website. The aussie kits do not use these components. The kit I have, I imported direct from Willwood to the specs I wanted, So I hope it's good, this is the second time in a week I've heard a rumour of Willwood been crappy... :S

The only problem with paying more for a quality part, is that it can be difficult to know if your paying more for a quality part, or just paying more. Aka, you don't get what you pay for. Plenty of times I've spent more to get a good item and ended up with the same pos item that I could have imported from china.

Dean is right. Should be a simple thing to get the xh tank and gauge working in a different body.

Epic, thanks for sharing!

I should clarify. Line pressure is pressure in the brake system. Braking effort, is the work done. Or how effectively the car slows down. Braking force is the force exerted onto the brake pad.

Good write up. Thanks for sharing. If I can offer a criticism, the formula, while correct, does not have a question. The answer is PSI, but what question is it answering? I think the question is: "how to find the force applied for a given braking effort." You could probably, clearly define the relationships here with some statements such as: 1. At a consistent line pressure, an increase in piston area will result in an increase in braking force. 2. An increase in piston area will require more pedal movement to maintain the same line pressure. 3. However as braking force is increased due to an increase in piston area, less line pressure is required to acheave the same braking effort. (Knowing this, you can see how rear and fwd braking biases is a consideration to ensure you don't unbalance the vehicle by increasing piston area on one end, vs the other. Coefficient of friction of the brake pad can be specified to correct for bias issues, as well as pressure bias adjustment in the rear braking circuit. ) A question I have here is, does that really equal that much more pedal movement? For the purpose of this we can assume the brake pad cannot be moved, it is already contacting the brake rotor and the materials of the pad and rotor are very Ridgid. So I'm interested to know how much an increase in piston area will atcually result in a requirement for more displaced fluid in the master/more pedal movement. I would expect in most cases you can increase piston size/count dramatically before there is a requirement for a change in master bore size or travel?

Mr Polson is on it. Exactly what he said. I've raced tarmac a few times on DBA T2's Slotted only, with bendex ult pads. The pads ended up getting cooked but rotors survived, so they well over 550deg C. and i've swapped to a higher temp compound pad for now. For street use. Standard bendex are easily available, and good reliable quality. You dont need ultimates or special compounds unless your racing. Do not get crossed drilled rotors. They are for looks only. Cross drilling atcually reduces the effectivness of the rotor as it lowers thermal mass. It also create failure points making the rotor more prone to flying to bits on the track.

Thanks for the refer. Hey Grabber, I'll get back to you shortly wrt senders.

the problem with wedges is that it will cause misalignment and shearing action on the bolts used to hold the ball joint on. Not really ideal, I cut the mount out of my upper arm and weld it in a new one. also putting a wedge in will increase the angle of the upper arm and depending on how low you want to put your car you will end up with your upper arm binding against the tower. From here you can machine the back of upper arms get more clearance. if you are going to wedge make sure you try to do it so the top and the bottom of the bolts are bolting on a square surface, you may achieve this by wedging the underside of the top and bottom of the bolt by equal and opposite angles, and it should be fine. make sure you use high tensile 8.8 or 10 grade bolts. The better option is to purchase upper arms that are already modified with angles to correct ball joint binding these exist and are cheaper now than they were when I had to make my own arms.

Goes both ways. I have T2's on mine and wanted them machined. They had no run-out but did have a slight taper due to some heavy abuse. Took it in to be machined at a reputable specialist. Got it back, taper was gone, but now the rotor had run-out that was more than double the factory max tolerance. Took it back and said 'Oi!' They run em up again, but still the run-out was not within factory spec. I know by this point I've wasted man hours pulling thebortors off and putting em back on, and they could not try to mahine again as the rotor would become too thin. They assured me it would be fine, and i got them to sign a receipt and put a 10,000km warranty on it. Just in case it ended up with pulsation or uneven contact and they'd buy me some new T2's. Anyway, morale to the story, with single piece rotor and hubs, it's probably best to just get them replaced. Or have them machined on the car. they are difficult to machine off the car due to the inbuilt bearing cups and require a very accurate jig to get right.

Big oil and auto has already held the electric car back 15 years. remember when they were temporarily released in the early 2000? There's a whole thing about that. But you could easily argue that battery tech may have been sufficient much earlier then that. But it would probably be hard to pinpoint what time it might have been viable since there is evidence of big oil and auto crushing the tech to prevent the advancement of any competition, and who knows how far back that goes. maby as far as the 1900's if you really wanted to get into the conspiracy theory.

You're correct. It's, 250ish for Tesla and 260ish for Porsche. Rimac get north of 300 but has a 2 speed rear. Anyway, my point remains, very few people use a car north of 250kph. I am hopeful for battery tech. I do expect charging times in the 0-80% for a sub 100kwh battery to realistically reach sub 10min and to offer north of 400km range within the next 10 years. Porsche can already do that in 15min but at 300mile peak range it is probably a bit under the 400km. So I think 10 years is very conservative. I'd trust an autonomous car more than 50% of people whom hold a licence. And am hopeful that we can cancel licences and start jamming the really shitty drivers into self driving cars within the next 5 years. Although I'm been a bit too optimistic that the cost of such cars will be cheap enough by that stage for people to afford them. Which is gonna take a lot longer I think.

Those single gear electric cars can reach speeds in excess of 300km and sprint 0-100 in under 3 seconds. Ice is a dieing tech and we should let it die. There is no fathomable way it can match a pure ev for efficency. With Australia's land mass and location we would have no issue at all finding the space to erect the required solar arrays to power the country. However, imo we should be building nuclear power generators to fill the gap between now and when solar and wind become fully integrated. Australia's aversion to nuclear is just silly. And as for charging stations everywhere? Yes please. But it's really a non issue. Charging times are decreasing rapidly as tech improves. It will be no more inconvenient to stopping at the servo for 10minutes. No need to have charging stations littering the street. There would be charging lots just like there are servos for people whom don't have their own garage space. But this is all assuming cars are not fully autonomous.in which case car ownership will die and be left to the rich and the hobbiests.

It is more efficient to charge an electric car with a diesel generator than to put that diesel in the most efficient diesel vehicle and drive the same distance. There is no valid argument against electric cars from an efficency or environmental standpoint. Even if 100% of the energy that powers them comes from coal.

https://www.caradvice.com.au/801643/electric-crate-motor-turns-any-classic-into-an-ev/

You can use a die grinder on the back of the rockers and on the close tolerance parts of the rocker cover to get clearance. Only some of the rockers hit, most clear. My Yella Terra rollers and rocker cover are machined like this and it gave enough clearance for a 510" lift hyd cam. Using a paper gasket and factory intake setup, everything cleared. Though it hit when I upgraded to a 535" lift. Instead of increasing the machining, I got a piece of 4mm Ally. And used a jigsaw to cut it into a spacer to go under the cover using a paper gasket on each side. Cost me fk all and has been working for years.