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Thom last won the day on July 8

Thom had the most liked content!

About Thom

  • Rank
    Official OzFalcon OHC Wizard
  • Birthday 08/20/1989

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  • Location
    Inside out
  • Interests
    All the explosions are happening outside the engine

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  1. Thom

    Can I Keep my BTR

    With the bf bellhousing you will lose your column shift linkage mount, to keep the xg column shift setup you will need an au column shift bellhousing
  2. Thom

    Can I Keep my BTR

    Pretty sure the fg sump won't fit the xg, fg's have a rear sump, earlier engines have a front sump, I wouldn't be surprised if the fg sump hits your drag link, an au/ba/bf will hit the sway bar in an xg, but there are 3 solutions to this, make spacers for the sway bar to move it out of the way, aftermarket sway bar that clears the alloy sump (I think whiteline make one) or you could modify the front of the sump to clear
  3. Thom

    Can I Keep my BTR

    Btr autos were still available in fg, so putting behind a barra isn't a problem, it gets tricky because the barra btr's are slightly different to e series and au btr's, all barra btr's use a cable shifter and the floor shift variants only have shift positions p,r,n,d mechanically and 3,2,1 are selected electronically via the "tiptronic" shifter, factory column shift btr's do still have park to 1st mechanically selectable but unless its from a ba ute it won't have a speed sensor in the gearbox (ba utes were the only ones from ba to fgx that didn't come standard with abs so they had a speedo transducer in the gearbox, abs equipped cars used the wheel speed sensors instead, the speed sensor is needed to drive your speedo and tell the ecu how fast you are going so it can control shifting in the trans) Your original btr will bolt up to a barra with a barra to btr bellhousing swapped onto it, you would have to convert your shift linkage fo cable though, if you wanted to use your original shifter linkage you would need an au column shift bellhousing, the one thing I am uncertain on is if the earlier btr will talk to the barra ecu As far as the engines go, ba/bf barras are simpler to bolt in than an fg engine, series 2 ba or bf being slightly better than ba series 1 as series 1 only controls the cams as a pair whereas the later engrave fully independent cam control, fg engines are a little more powerful but you have to swap the sump and oil pick up to a ba/bf unit and drill the block for the dip stick to go in the correct location
  4. Thom

    sohc into xf

    I'm sure your correct on ea 2 being a stand alone loom, it would make sense as during ea/eb they made some pretty big changes so having the loom being separated makes sense, one thing with ea-eb looms is they had a separate trans controller and trans loom like the 5.0l did up until au, and while my memory is a bit foggy on some of this stuff (its probably been 15 years since i played around with any ea/eb's) I'm pretty sure that when smartlock was introduced the tcu was integrated into the ecu, if you use an ecu that is smartlock equipped it doesn't matter if you've used a smartlock loom or not the ecu has to have smartlock turned off for it to work
  5. Thom

    sohc into xf

    Wanting to eliminate excess wiring leads me to think of only a couple of ways and both could be more time consuming than pulling the dash out, you could un pick the engine and trans harness from the xg loom and discard the rest, this would let you setup the wiring to the engine as a stand alone and only tie into the existing loom at the ignition switch and alternator, this setup would require a j3 chip (or moates quaterhorse etc) to disable smartlock (you probably will need that anyway unless you put the whole loom from the xg including body control modules and steering column), you could do this with any e series loom, an el one would probably be ideal as they are the neatest factory loom and already have provisions for themo fans and a broad band manifold controller Another route you could try is getting a barra loom and ecu mofied to run your sohc 4.0 as a stand alone unit, bill hooten and a few others on Facebook do these but they are all backed up for months so I can only guess how long you would have to wait, if you were game you could modify the loom yourself but the ecu would need to be re flashed to suit, and you would still have to get hold of a barra engine/trans loom and ecu
  6. Pre xflow (xy-xb) or iron head xflow is what you need you need to make sure its similar size to the original one from the car unless you've changed diff gears, ford used different diameter water pump pulleys on cars that had 3.0-2.77 from cars that had 3.23-3.5 to change the water pump speed depending engine rpm at highway speed, taller ratios spin the water pump slower (because the engine rpm is much lower with tall diffs) so the water pump doesn't cavitate due to spinning too fast
  7. Thom

    1992 5.0 into XF ute.

    Standard 5.0l diff ratio throughout all e series was 3.23, btr and t5 have the same od ratio (.68) v8 falcons, fairmont, fairlane and xr8 rarely had an lsd unless it was optioned that way series 2 el xr8 is the exception as the standard dif was 3.45 lsd, other 5.0l cars that came with 3.45 lsd standard were eb gt, ed sprint and el gt, e series didn't run a very large range of ratios (eb to el, most of ea also had 2.77 as they had bw 40 instead of btr 4 speed) 3.08 being the tallest and 3.45 being the lowest in the middle was mostly 3.23 but I have seen some 3.27, based on a standard height tyre 205 65 15 (this is just from memory so may be a little off) 3.08@ 100kph= 1700rpm 3.23/3.27@100kph= 2000rpm 3.45@ 100kph= 2200rpm 9 times our of 10 swapping to 3.45 in any e series (6 cyl or v8) would usually yield better fuel economy than the other ratios
  8. Thom

    170 Log engine refresh.

    Good ones are starting to pull into the $500 ish range if they are proved to be a good runner, especially if its motor and box, early falcons are really popular right now, at least the pre crossflows can be made to sound pretty good with a dual exhaust (if you do go that route then you'd be able to keep most of the same exhaust with the windsor) its all because of the shared centre exhaust port combined with a set of split headers makes them sound good, you can pick up power by putting a divider in that port but then they sound exactly like a crossflow, here's a couple of videos of pre xflow's with dual exhaust
  9. Thom

    170 Log engine refresh.

    The last one I did i basically just neatened up the castings in the exhaust ports and concentrated on the bowl area/cleaning up reshaping the guides, I think I only spent about 1/2 an hour on each port, woke it up though, I wish I still has pics of the 170 head I ported for my old xp, these pics are from the 250 head I milled the carb flange off and made a 2 barrel holley adapter
  10. Thom

    170 Log engine refresh.

    A couple of more pics i found on the net
  11. Thom

    170 Log engine refresh.

    Offenhouser still makes this It bolts to the original carb location and you drill 2 more holes then clamp the ends down
  12. Thom

    170 Log engine refresh.

    I know someone who can do those sort of things, but I'm probably a bit far away
  13. Thom

    170 Log engine refresh.

    Sounds like it will come up quite reasonably with mostly elbow grease and a handful of parts
  14. Thom

    2000 AU XR8

    5.4 Will be a tight fit, the 3v engine the Fairmonts have is a bit of a sluggish, but slightly smaller than the squad cam 5.4's Au 5.0's are a pretty nice engine for what they are but the biggest problem is most headers don't fit them due to the gt40p heads au engines have, gt40p's have the spark plug re located compared to other Windsor heads Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  15. Thom

    Thom's 4.0l thread

    Definitely alot better than the 140rwkw it made on the stock tune