-
Content Count
5,420 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
60
Thom last won the day on October 11 2023
Thom had the most liked content!
About Thom
-
Rank
Official OzFalcon OHC Wizard
- Birthday 08/20/1989
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Location
Inside out
-
Interests
All the explosions are happening outside the engine
Recent Profile Visitors
31,812 profile views
-
SPArKy_Dave reacted to a post in a topic: Thom's 4.0l thread
-
Searley reacted to a post in a topic: Thom's 4.0l thread
-
bear351c reacted to a post in a topic: Thom's 4.0l thread
-
2redrovers reacted to a post in a topic: Thom's 4.0l thread
-
deankxf reacted to a post in a topic: Thom's 4.0l thread
-
Ando81 reacted to a post in a topic: Thom's 4.0l thread
-
Here's an old video circa 2007 with my phone taped to the steering wheel running from zero to 180 kph (i was inventive back then) of my pick a part special 4.0 it made 144rwkw around this time, and it made 177 rwkw with a tune later on (video quality is representative of its time) it was in my xh ute with an ex taxi au short motor (from memory had more than 860,xxx ks), ef xr6 head (94 dt) ea cam, el bbm intake, super cat extractors, crow vernier cam gear, yella terra billet flywheel, high flow cat 2.5 inch exhaust, t5 and 3.45 gears, it was a lot of fun to an 18 year old me, I put over 180,xxxks on that engine before it let go when the stock valve train decided that 2 years of turning to 7000rpm was enough and it dropped a valve, after it was tuned the rev limiter was set to 7200rpm and it saw it every time it was in 1st gear (18 year old me was hard on the equipment) and sometimes more often than that, I wouldn't mind getting another e-series one day and replicating this combo, although it would be really fun in something lightweight like an xp falcon
-
MattB5.8 reacted to a post in a topic: C4 to Tremec TKO600 XE conversion
-
I know its not in a falcon, but the TKO 600 in my dads model a uses the same trans mount as it did with a T5 the holes did have to be slotted to get the trans mount in the right spot, using a McLeod scattershield and stock length input shaft the shifter came out in the same location as the t5 shifter did
-
3.08 is the standard 6 cyl ratio for e series falcons, probably easiest way would be to swap the lsd out of the 3.45 in it and then put the whole 3.08 diff in
-
How old are the points? A lot of new points the spring is too soft letting the points float exactly the same way sometimes valve springs let the valves float, easiest way to check is if you have an old set that are usable throw them in and see if the problem disappears
-
Can't help you with the number, but 221 was an Australian and argentina only engine, the yanks didn't get them, at a guess the engine could be from a Sydney built car with that number
-
A j3 chip in the stock ecu would be your best bet, although if you look up bill hooten on bookface he does stand alone looms, one of his options is to retro fit a barra loom and ecu to the sohc 4.0
-
You can do away with it all and use an e series distributor with a msd or ice ignition to control timing, or a modified crossflow distributor if you want a purely mechanical distributor, that's assuming you're going carb?
-
What can I say, I like to make things faster than they were stock for minimal cost, taxi engines are usually a very good starting point for a performance build as they usually never completely cool down and if they have been regularly serviced about the only part of them that usually need attention is the rings
-
The au short motor in my ute was from an au taxi at pick a part and had 885 000ks on it, when I tore it down for a re ring and bearing it was still within factory tolerances
-
You've got it, about the only other thing is the bellhousing, it will bolt up to the block but the sump won't bolt to the bellhousing unless you swap to an au bellhousing, I recently found an in car video on an old sd card of my ute circa 2008 after it had the hot 4.0 but before it was tuned, I don't think i ever uploaded it back then because it was a zero to 180 pull, it was quite capable of getting ot of its own way and it lived through 180,000ks of p plater abuse
-
If it is pulling 4krpm @100kph are you sure it's changing out of second into top? Could be in need of a kickdown or vacuum modulator adjustment
-
Change steering coupling in-car - XF Ute power steering
Thom replied to iamaelephant's topic in Steering, Suspension and Brakes
One thing that can catch you out, the bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering shaft and steering box need to be completely removed not just loosened as the prevent the rag joint from sliding off when still fitted -
E series 5.0 can be easy to diagnose some sensor problems, if you have a faulty maf sensor, o2 sensor, air intake temp sensor etc simply unplugging them one at a time and taking the car for a drive and looking for any improvement will head you in the right direction, eg if you have a bad maf unplugging it will make it run better because the ecu has a base table for all the sensors it can refer to to keep the car running, it won't be able to compensate completely but it will run better than when the bad sensor was plugged in, in your case I'd start by checking the maf, then the throttle position sensors, air intake temp sensor, then o2, if none of those being unplugged then you have to chase things like fuel pressure, faulty injectors, distributor/ plugs/ leads etc to find the problem
-
Crossflow Engine Rebuild - tips and Help (Harrison Kotrolos)
Thom replied to Harrison Kotrolos's topic in Crossflow
General rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi per 1000 rpm is adequate, so in that case you have plenty, you can shim the pressure relief for a little more but unless you are planning to spin it over 6k rpm there's no need, as all you are doing with higher than necessary oil pressure is putting extra load on the oil pump drive, which other than breaking the oil pump drive can cause issues like spark scatter, excessive wear on the distributor drive gear and the distributor housing, in saying all that you do want to make sure you oil pressure relief isn't stuck open and moves freely as while you do have enough oil pressure to not have any problems I've routinely seen stock oil pumps provide 80psi when cold above idle and 65-70psi warm at 4-6000rpm on a freshly rebuilt engine, but that also depends on your bearing tolerances, reading your original post if the pressure relief valve isn't stuck i wouldn't change anything -
Crossover uni is the easiest and cheapest way to go about it, I can't remember the part number for them any more though, but they are still readily available