ZL.

Boge are the best ive found, lifetime guarantee, only $150 a pair.

Heres the ones i done for theFairlane, havent got the pics from when i made it, but just bought some mdf and knocked them up, bit of black upholstery carpet and they came up pretty well 

Heres the ones i done for theFairlane, havent got the pics from when i made it, but just bought some mdf and knocked them up, bit of black upholstery carpet and they came up pretty well 

Heres the ones i done for theFairlane, havent got the pics from when i made it, but just bought some mdf and knocked them up, bit of black upholstery carpet and they came up pretty well 

BCM...... ECU...... they all taste like chicken to me.................... but ya get my drift. =) . That parts car will come in very handy.
 
Jack.

The injector fires at the port wall in a xflow no matter what because of the cockeyed angle they are aimed in at. Thats why the OHC engines had the injectors at 12 oclock aiming directly inline with the port and at the back of the valve. As for EV6 injectors spraying in a V, thats bollocks, the 4 separate jets are shaped into a cone to improve atomisation of fuel, far better than a solid stream that the EV1 xflow injectors do. And as for EV6 injectors not working in a round port.... Ford ran them like that from EL SII thru to AU SIII. 4 fine jets of fuel are far better than 1 large one no matter what shape your port or the angle of injector. AU injectors are a direct swap in for EFI XFs, they are 20.8lbs of the AUs as compared to 21lbs of the XFs and 15 years younger.
 

Pretty sure you can change the pedal box on any xseries with the dash still in, well i know this is true for XA,B,C. You have to remove the steering column however. I hate changing bloody pedal boxes, cunt of a job, changed the one in my xc last week.

Why not just find a good secondhand XD alloy head and manifold, if your head has been shaved heaps to get the comp up then swapping to a stock head will bring your comp down to a manageable level, plus alloy heads are less prone to pinging.

Just swap them all. Rip them all out of the XF and throw them in the bin. Take them all from the XG labeling as you go and fit them all to the XF.
 
Look at it this way; strip the XF shell and reshell the XG into it. Just fit everything. You will need to anyway for it all to work.

Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600

You didnt watch the vids i posted ? No start retard,no low timing setting it just works.That ignition is TFI dizzy and a 6AL2 Non programmable HVC coil...starts drives fine.That said the ultimate is a fully mappable system that is tuned on a dyno (thats not included in the price LOL) not in the driveway but as stated before,mine had one and now it doesn't and as other's have stated who have installed the TFI set up it works fine in everyday life.Thats why the world has no hot rodders any more people expect to have a car that runs like stock yet goe's like and V8 supercar?It's all about concession's...
 
On what yours is going to look like I wouldn't bother as there will be no real gain TBH unless you want to run on 91 octane fuel and big compression so you can work the timing map.But what do I know only having done all of them ignitions before and finding the current to work best?But really it's all piss and wind until a engine is built anyway.So I'd worry about all that first or this thread will be 8 pages long then you will reply with ...sorry guys it looked like too much work and too dear so I bought a XR6 turbo.Seen it too many times before...LOL
 
Good luck with what ever you sort out bud...

it may have the beefier conrods put of an ea if that's the case

Score!

^^^^^ what he said.  I doubt that you will have the cylinder head to be making power past 4500 - 5000 anyway so why rev it to 6000.  Your just making a whole heap of noise and stressing the engine for no real reason.
 
Stick a decent cam in it and use the strength of these engines - the TORQUE that they make.  The fastest two barrel speedway modified production car in Australia rarely sees 6000 rpm.  It has a mountain of TORQUE and that is why it wins races.
 
with a .40 bore, standard stroke, zero deck height and with standard pistons around the 22cc mark you will be around 10.7:1 comp.  Nice for a decent cam and still run 95 with the timing backed off a little.  Want to race it put 98 in and give it a few degrees.
 
The stock pistons will handle that comp all day with the tune right and you will have a torquey short rod motor that pulls like a 14 year old and will last forever. 

Acl race series are no longer made and you will be very lucky to find a set brand new at a retail store. If you ask nicely there are people here that have spare sets of pistons, good used sets are fine. Hypatec do make new pistons and have 3 different dished piston (29.3cc 20.5cc 5cc) and a flat top. Be aware that the hypatec have a larger compression height to acl which will require skimming the top off if the engine is at zero deck height already. Regarding engine compression it depends what fuel you are going to run as regular unleaded will need less compression than 95 or 98 and lpg can have a bit more depending on quality. Camshaft will also dictate compression as you have mentioned med to large cams, large requires more comp and diff gear change.
Hitting 6000rpm regularly is high for a reliable unbalanced crossflow, yes you can do it and many have but a balance is worth $200, alot cheaper than another rebuild.

So ive decided to build the fairlane a motor since i have an 86da block in another fairlane and a motor out of an xg that i will pull
the crank and rods out of,i plan to go carb and ill probly just stick with the weber, roller rockers,medium to large cam, not sure on the cam ill probly have a talk to waggots when im over that way next but what im asking is what pistons should i be looking at and whats the max compression ratio that is safe-ish? i dont plan go go past 6000rpm and reliability is more important than HP. any help?

555 were good, till they stopped supplying them.
Roadsafe distributed them. They still do 555 tierod ends.

"Aluminium Hi Sparkle" is the brightest ive seen so far

I have a wade 242a cam in my XF efi running standard ecu. Its the largest you can go without going aftermarket ecu. Car runs no problem and it is a lumpy cam (you can definately tell its cammed). Increased power up the top end slightly too

Yes a high volume pump will empty that sump in a heart beat and leave all the oil in the top end.  Until you have had a standard pump on a hydraulic test bench you just can't understand the quantity of oil that they are capable of pushing. 
 
Flat to the boards in top gear would be up there in the revs I imagine and your HV pump is more than capable of emptying the sump, add in a left hand bend to 'flat to the boards in top' and you will most certainly make a very big hole in the block. 
 
The problem with the standard pump (in the standard form) is that they are just to efficient and continually relieve internally, which stresses the oil.  This is a real problem on fresh engines with good bearing tolerances as the pump is continually relieving.
 
To understand the functioning of the oil pump you have to think what it was originally designed for.  FORD built these motors knowing they were going to be used in taxis and other high milage applications.  Basically they were built to last.  This means they had to design a pump that would flow enough oil even when the bearings were getting real sad.  This is why you can have an engine with bearings to the copper and still see 45-50psi in oil pressure.  I just pulled an engine down that was exactly like this, down to the copper on the big ends and still showing 50psi at idle.  In order to achieve this they made a pump that would work when the engine was fresh (continually relieving internally) and when the engine was worn (not so much oil passing over the relief). 
 
Then someone comes along and makes a high volume pump for one???? Why???Because other engines don't have such an efficient oil pump and they need a high volume pump to make them last.  So the Ford X-Flow must need one too, so we will make one of those and flog off a few cause a high volume pump just has to be better!!  Wrong in the x flow application I can assure you. 
 
If you want your block to stay as one nice piece of cast iron, don't rev the thing (in any gear) until you pull that high volume pump off and get a bigger sump. I know this as I have spent hours on a Hydraulics test bench mucking around with oil pumps.  Why - because I'm a freak and I had an oil pressure issue once and I was determined to get on top of it so I spent way too much time analysing the oiling system of these motors.
 
Rant over - Yes I am a little precious about oil pumps - 95% of engine failures are oil related in my experience.

So dont paint it until you can afford decent paint. or do it and find out

you cant have good cornering/steering and a good ride over bumps, theyre polar opposites. just pick one and live with the pro's an con's. and superpro is better than nolothane IMO.

Didn't we have this conversation back in the old place, and the consensus was that it took longer to read the thread than pull the motor out?

i always pull the motor out do the sump, and put it on an engine stand so u can turn the motor upside down, it makes it heaps easier to clean the old sump gasket off and get the new one on.

You have to remember that this site is rather new and most of our info is still on the other site.It's not as easy as putting solid lifters on any camshaft either you have to get a solid lifter cam to suit your needs/wants.Plus the fact solid cams are dearer and the best/correct lifters are as dear as the cam in most cases.The valve train needs adjustable roller rockers and if stud mount machine work and guide plates for the pushrods.There is a very very very important run in procedure with special oil and light springs,then swap to the needed springs so add more money and time to it all.
 
Camshaft $300,Comp EDM Lifters $260,adjustable roller rockers bolt on $500,springs to suit your new camshaft as they need more seat pressure $200ish,new retainers and locks $150ish and thats if you don't want a big cam as a bigger cam needs single groove valves and new retainers and locks to suit $500ish right there atleast.Plus you still have top fit he new cam,check piston to valve clearance,then oils ans paste $75,run in cam and swap springs-shop price would be $300 I'd suggest.  
 
So basically there go solid cams for you as you don't want to spend money on it and thats just off the top of my head.You are like most other people who want a really fast cranky x-flow but want it for as cheap as possible when it just doesn't happen that way and 1 read of my thread should prove that point.Yes I tried to do it as cheap as possible and killed 4 cams and 3 sets of cast pistons hence my new roller cam,forged piston combo I should have done 5 years ago learnt the hard way.
 
Don't be offended as I was were you were a few years back but have moved on and found they can be a seriously disturbing engine if built right and they can embarrass some big $$$ cars easily but they as all other engines require the "correct package".