78xcgxl

I agree. I like them as well but i want a 19 x9 or 19x10 for the rear with some dish. I like to run a minimal of 275 rear tyres on a X series for that nice fat ass look.

Man seriously you need to put the bump stop plate back on, it is there for a reason. Look at the angle of the ball joint, ready to snap and is a ticking time bomb.

To Make a FG Turbo engine to work in a BA with minimal fuss, the best way in my option is to do the following. 1. Find an early FG engine that has the hole already there for the different dipstick requirement. Saves fucking around drilling shit. 2. Remove the FG sump and oil pump pick up off the FG engine and swap with all the stufff you have off the BA engine. 3. Remove the FG rocker cover off the FG engine and swap over all the BA rocker cover and coilpacks, along with the looms. 4. Remove the FG intakes and replace with all BA stuff. Doing it this way everything should would as per BA spec, but with a newer and stronger engine.

Preston panels in victoria can modify standard sumps to be exact replicas of phase 4 sumps.

My advice would be to ditch 4L OHC and go straight to the Barra. They are a much better engine and desinged to be have a turbo in the first place.

This isn't done for a comfort purpose actually. The reason why all the new idler arms are one side urethane and the other side rubber is because the rubber acts like a return spring that helps center the steering after going around a corner. This is why in the workshop manual it states that the steering wheel must be in the straight ahead position before tightening the idler arm bolts. If you look at the idler arm bush on the rubber side it has teeth that grab into the steering leakage and thus creating tension when the steering wheel is turned.

I've got 3 boat anchors (crossflows ), 1 SOHC 4L, 2 Barras and 2 clevos. Fortunately i try to avoid sleeping next to a crossflow. However instead i try on a Saturday night and occasionally succeed on sleeping next to an enticing female that i have manged to somehow bluff my way in taking her home in a Barra Powered Taxi. hahaha

I disagree with you on not running urethane bushes on a road vehicle. Both my car run all urethane and both ride really nice, far better than rubber bushes. Sure NVH is slightly increased but really not that much from what i have experience. I find wide lower profile wheels and tyres cause far more NVH than urethane bushes alone. As long as they are greased and installed properly they won't give you any trouble. The trade off for a slightly increased NVH with gains in far better road feel, tight suspension and far better handling is worth it. I do agree with not running urethane shock bushes they are a stupid idea and are going good for sheering the shock mount bolts.

The shelby drop lowers the upper control arm 1 inch, not the actual car suspension ride height 1 inch. The shelby drop will lower the car only around a 1/4 of a inch and it's purpose is not designed to actually lower the car, just improve camber curve. I would just replace springs with the correct king springs KFFl-0 and fit shortened shocks in, this will fix all the issues you are currently having.

There is a simple answer to this is: the car is obviously too low. I bet if you measure the ground clearance from the cross member it will be lower than 100mm making not street legal as well. Change springs and problem solved, car must have decent amount of suspension travel. As mentioned by broken-wheel Kings KFFL-0 with a shortened shock is what you want if you have an Alloy head crossflow in your car. If you have a Iron head cross flow or 4.0L OHC or DOHC KFFl-01 are the correct springs.

Sorted out the pedal box, you guys were right in saying that all XF boxes the extra hole of the cruise control switch. I cut the bracket off a XF pedal box and welded it to my XC one. Managed to use the old brake light switch bracket, cut it to shape and used it as the clutch pedal cruise control switch. Here are some pics XF pedal box [/url]

Pics of A pillar , even took a photo of one cut so you can see how the different layers are put together.

No dramas, i will try and get a photo for you tomorrow of a A piliar on one of my cars.

. I see what you car saying but the A pillar on these cars have many different layers and is pressed in particular shape that it will be quite hard and time consuming to replicate as per factory. I've got a donor XC that i think has a good drivers A pillar i can take pics of it and if you want happy to cut it out for you. Where abouts are you located?

Hmm that's nasty as, why not just buy a section off another car and weld it in? It will make your life so much easier and will be spot on.