ZL.

Heres the ones i done for theFairlane, havent got the pics from when i made it, but just bought some mdf and knocked them up, bit of black upholstery carpet and they came up pretty well

dont buy those ebay ones i bought a set for the zl and theyre not worth a pinch of shit, i then put a set in out of another zl which i had the injectors reco'd years ago and went 10 times better, sold the ebay ones on ebay for 30 buks.

No its intake side, has two bolts down near where the dipstick goes in.

When coils get old and worn out they get hot, so if its getting hot after running for a short time then its time for a new one.

How far does your spark jump? it should jump atleast 25mm, when in ambient pressure, as when the spark has to jump the plug in the motor its heaps more pressure. if that makes sense

No they just have bolt in adaptor brackets for the rad, you might have to cut the brackets that hold the radiator filler/overflow tank.

I would bring the whole car home, then you know you've got everything.

I had one othe these in a 3.3 XE i bought a couple of years ago, went alright for the time i had it, but now has a big knocky/grindy noise since my mate has owned it, probly wont last much longer.

Tree fitty!

head bolts should be all the same except the one at the front where the earth lead goes

Hey Folks Does anyone know the cc of the 3.9 and 4.0 pistons?i think by my workings out the bore is only 16thou bigger in the 4.0, the reason i need to know is my outback had a tickford head motor(91da block 92dt head) what i thought was a 4l but now that is out, i can see 3 cast on the back of the block and the sticker over the rear welsh plug says 3.9. so with a tickford head this would make it super low compression right? since 3.9 was at about 8.8 from what i can find out. so i should look for a 4.0 bottom end and use that, gain an easy 40kw? Cheers

so i took the head off a 94da 4.0 i have here and the pistons looked the same, only difference was the 94da had full counterweight crank, and the 91da had 54 stamped on each of the conrods. so i rang 13ford and they confirmed the 91 da was a 4.0 'HP'out of an EB2. so who knows why it has a 3.9 sticker on the rear welsh plug, had me goin for a while though haha. so now i dont have to look for a good 4.0 just buy some rings and a honer, mabe a set of bearings.

So ive decided to build the fairlane a motor since i have an 86da block in another fairlane and a motor out of an xg that i will pull the crank and rods out of,i plan to go carb and ill probly just stick with the weber, roller rockers,medium to large cam, not sure on the cam ill probly have a talk to waggots when im over that way next but what im asking is what pistons should i be looking at and whats the max compression ratio that is safe-ish? i dont plan go go past 6000rpm and reliability is more important than HP. any help?

normally it is in front of the brake booster

if the previous owner moved them it would be hard to tell you their location

The XF/ZL premo sound amp is only 40w total, even a cheap amp would have more power/features. and your not limited to the original short cables.

Ah yeah sweet cheers

Are these the ones wagoon? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACL-Race-Series-Cast-Piston-Ring-Set-Ford-250ci-6cyl-x-flow-6mkry9411-Bowl-/251224701986?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7e28bc22 or mabe just a new standard set.

Awesome thats the kind of info i was after ! , as far as i know the 86da motor should be a virgin block and should be totally original, as for fuel i always run premium, and i see what you mean about 6k being just noise, 5k will be fine i wont really give it a hard time it will probly be lucky to see 5k, as the fairlane will turn into a town car, now that i have a XG outback for towing and day to day shit, thats why i dont mind having a cam on the big side of things.

XF have eec4, EB ED EF etc have eec5, they are fairly different, as far as swapping components between the two its not really going to work, your better off with eec5 as it has alot more options and doesnt have an AFM but instead uses MAP and 02 sensors.

yeah that looks like a bit of spring steel that goes in the bottom of the seat

"Aluminium Hi Sparkle" is the brightest ive seen so far

The return line was added midway through xe, in 83 i think, for two reasons, to reduce the chance of vapour lock, and to reduce pressure on the needle & seat. a good way to get around putting in a full line to the tank, is to plumb the return into the inlet with a T piece, before the pump, but with a restrictor such as a standard weber jet pushed into the return before the T.

have a look at the relays for the fuel pump and ecu, someone put a 4 pin relay in the 5 pin ecu relays place in my fairlane befor i bought it, and it made it do heaps of wierd stuff, and was a prick to find. also get a long screwdriver and put one end on each injector at a time the othe end on your ear and listen if any of the injectors sound irregular. was the tps you swapped a good one?

coolant sensor is in the head where your heater hose is, coolant sensor controls mixtures mostly, could be a vac leak but wouldnt be intermittant would be constant but more noticable at revs.