steve mcqueen

i took mine out once and refitted it with the rope.. was before the help of the internets.. so there might be a best place to end up ? but i had a lower corner last to get in and i was not having an easy time(it was as if the window grew 3 mm too wide)
with the attitude of "this is going in or i'll break it" it went in with a lot of force.. (next time i'd pay a windscreen expert to refit maybe.. if they are experts)

http://www.falcongt.com.au/id.html

They come under the same topic as Trans fuid and diff oil, no one changed them as often as they should

Yeah I always thought "it recommended to do a complete brake fluid flush every 2 years"
just like coolant, its recommended to do it every 2 years as well but really, who does it?
Not many people.

I made a simple frame and bolted it to the floor of the boot in the XE.
 

 
The battery box and isolator switch and fuse bolt to it.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The a quick lick of carpet and she was done!
 

What ever you buy you want to be able to incorporate it into your up coming engine build. (still think AU 4 litre would be awesome) If you spend $600+ on a carby and manifold and cant use it on your new donk, well you don't need me to tell you "that was a waste of money"
With that in mind, id buy a second hand webber from a working car and chuck it on keep the change for the engine build/conversion

Ok so got a bit of spare time this arvo and pulled the old springs out. Unfortunately the front eye bolt had decided to weld (rust) itself to the metal sleeve of the bush meaning the trusty 5" grinder had to come out. I thought the sedan bolts I had at home would be sweet but they were a bit small so I have to run into town in the morning to rescue the bolts from the wagon.
I did dummy bolt it all up and yes it all fits like a glove. The EF wagon u bolts are bigger than the XF and the plates on the shackles are a little thicker than XF so a bit of a strength win there.
The oval front eye bush fits nicely into the XF recess as well, so basically it is a straight swap, just remember to keep the all the bolts from the EF donor if you are doing the swap in case your front eye bolt is screwed like mine.
I have sent Slydog some before photos and a photo of the difference between the two u bolts. He will post them up later as I am a techno gumby.
After shots will be up tomorrow PM as I have to retrieve the bolts and get it back down on it's wheels, after I do a few house chores to earn man minutes.

Brake pad come loose and the top leans in whilst reversing but not wen going forwards as it will be pushing away. Thats my guess and vibration caused by same thing but thats only guessing mate. Or maybe a rock caught in there or something.

Hey Adrian if your disc has no drag on it then your caliper hasn't seized, sounds like your pad backing shim is wonky and has pushed the pad out against the disc on the trailing side, so in reverse it grabs the pad and causes the squeal you mentioned.
 
The tight spot could be a dicky ball joint, tie rod or something funky going on in your steering box. Unfortunately the only way to isolate the problem is to start unbolting bits and one-by-one, move them find the component that's binding up.

Yes, having the nolathane will make the car feel tight, will turn into corners a bit better thus improving your steering but... the nolathane is hard as, not like rubber where it is softer so gives a more cushioning effect. The spring saddles are fine. Unless your's are flogged out no need to replace. Nolathane spring saddles are like $150 a pair give or take standard jobbies are half that price and some come with a grease nipple
Sway bar mounts keep in nolathane, idler arm in nolathane,
The radius rod bushes id change back, and id replace the shortend shocks you have for a standard pair in ultima, or pedders.
I have 2 x falcons one has Kings and the other has Pedders. My falcon with pedders is far better than kings so perhaps a future spring change aswell for you?

Id get rid of half that nolathane to.
Replace it with the standard Kelpro gear.

Didn't we have this conversation back in the old place, and the consensus was that it took longer to read the thread than pull the motor out?

hahaha, she's 16 so im not going to give you any pics, but shes blonde and has double d's so you can imagine the rest haha 

problem is you need to wire them through a relay ,when i wired a pair into my 351 clevo EA i did exactly that then bought a 24 volt switch ,i also had them wired into a temp sender ,the switch was if i wanted to turn them on ! 55 amp alt plenty

yes the front bush is oval in shape on the EF - not round like the XF, but as best as I can work out the mounting points are the same.  I did not get around to the swap yesterday, I fitted up the shift kit into the c4 instead and had a trial run (see videos section).  I intend on doing this on Tuesday after taking some measurements of the front spring mount on the EF and XF.  Would like to have done it today but the convertor seal is pissing out fluid after yesterdays effort, guess that's what happens when autos sit in a shed for years and then are pulled into service. 
 
I will let you know how I go with the spring change but I'm not expecting any problems as Lord F has already done this.
 
Yes Sly it will be going down at the back.  At this stage I'm looking at flipping the bottom spring on the wagon leaf pack and see how that goes.  I actually want it to sit lower than the front just for that drag look whilst doing skids. 

Pussies use hoists , on the ground on all fours is the only way to be fucked by a Falcooon

We call that doing a TUCKER round these parts lol

Who cares there all skids to me,big skid,fast skid,power skid

Tough car, shit drive.
 
Tough car, mad driver!
 
This is why Aussies do it better

<iframe src="http://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=559548817399133" width="226" height="400" frameborder="0"></iframe>

Or flip a car on its roof to pull the diff out with a forklift and a gas axe. Its like they think that the car one usefull part in it and they will just crush the rest. My pet hate was when some toss wants a stereo so they bust all the plastics out tear the door trims off and leave them lying in the dirt with the doors wide open completely destroying every part of the interior for a friggen second hand head unit.

I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500.
Thom, you the man

I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500.
Thom, you the man

Wouldn't be surprised if it ends up, Au short, Ef xr6 head, ea cam bbm, It made 178rwkw with a tune and cost less than $500 in parts to build, I pulled heaps of them apart at pick a part just to see what's different between them

I agree with Revhead, the AU 4litre is about as bulletproof as you can get in my opinion.