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Thom

Thom's 4.0l thread

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Ok so a few people have been chasing info on 4.0ls lately, so over some period of Time I will start posting what I know about 4.0ls as I have played with them for years , this first post is taken directly from a post i made in ph351's thread earlier today,<br /> Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600<br /><br />

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Bellhousings,<br />Ea-El bell housings are all interchangeable, Au do fit and vise versa but e series use two legs that bolt to the bottom of the block and the bellhousing whereas Au have a case aluminium sump with the legs cast into it but the e series legs don't bolt and Au bellhousing and an Au sump doesn't bolt to a e series bellhousing, photos tomorrow

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Subscribed......

 

Just about to commence an AU 4.0L conversion and starting to get some parts together.

 

So far ive got an AU1 motor complete running out of my ex daily and i just scored an EF Tickford head for the princely sum of 100 coin complete with everything.... cam, valves, rockers, cover the lot.  I also have access to the rest of  the EF XR6 motor so is there anything else i should grab before is slips by???

 

Got an AU T5 bell waiting to be picked up aswell... dont have a decent T5, only the XF one thats in the ute now but im hoping with some tender care it should hold for at least a while until i can build a better box.

 

Aslo picked up a set of PH4495 pipes to suit a barra that i was going to modify the bolt flange to fit the SOHC head... they are pretty damn close except for the top row of bolts so its either cut the whole flange off and tig another back on or try to manipulate this one.  Or sell the damn thing and spend the coin on an AU set yet.

 

Plans are the eventually supercharge it so while i might go with the EF head with more comp initially i might keep hold of the AU head and do that one for less comp around the 9.0:1 max mark to get some room for boost.

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Noobus...the crankcase of EF XR6 engines is the same as that of the lesser models. It's all in the head (and the red rocker cover) as far as EF XR6 engines are concerned.

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Ive got a twin screw from a 4.6L SVT mustang set asside with my name on it.. it will need some custom manifold work and maybe even some hood clearance to get it in there and with the right drive pulleys it will handle the 4.0l in its sleep and run a lot cooler than any centrifugal or turbo setup. Will probably end up with a water cooled manifold instead of routing it back out again for a front mount. But that is really at the end of the build, im not going to be attempting any of that for a good while.

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<br />Ive got a megasquirt running a xflow in there atm so i was going to just transfer it all over onto the 4.0L...<br /><br />Just swapped my pipes for a set of PH4495 pipes to suit AU so winning there, just hope it all clears the steering or im stuffed lol

<br />Not sure on the pipes, most sohc extractors fit xg- Au but not sure about BA and later, out of the extractors I tried I liked the hi-tech headers version, smaller diameter primaries than most aftermarket extractors = more airspeed on the exhaust= more torque& fuel economy due to better scavenging<br />

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Yeah well these are pacemaker competition units, some say they are too big for street use as they run 1 5/8" primaries and 2" tripple secondaries... they are big pipes but if u reckon that most will fit xg then i might have a hope. Yeah not set on which manifold atm, i have the bbm that is on the AU atm and also a log from an XH but i like the idea of using the bbm lower and fabbing up my own top half first to suit n/a and then later as a blower mount.

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Yeah not set on which manifold atm, i have the bbm that is on the AU atm and also a log from an XH but i like the idea of using the bbm lower and fabbing up my own top half first to suit n/a and then later as a blower mount.

I allways wanted to do that to one

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Here's pa couple of Shorty photos that show the.bellhousing descrepency between an Au short motor and an e series bellhousing<br />yjymesy8.jpg<br />egy4era9.jpg<br />One thing to watch out for is when using an Au series 2 or 3 engine is you have to use an Au/b series alternator as the casting is different around the water pump this photos shows it<br />2epujebe.jpg<br />It also means a tin sump cannot be put on an Au series 2 or 3 short motor at the two lower alternator bolts have bosses cast into the sump as mounting points. Au series 1 can have the aluminium sump swapped for a steel sump, but the rear main cap has to be used off a late El with the mix match engine as Au has larger main bearing than earlier e series, and the Au rear main cap doesn't have the recess machined in the cap for the sump gasket ( Au used a gasket similar to a rocker cover gasket with the recess machined into the sump), using a series 2 or 3 Au engine also.requires using the serpentine belt setup ablest you are willing to modify/ make alternators brackets and tensioners<br />Here's a photos of an Au engine With an Ef xr6 head (when doing head gaskets on 4.0l's use a genuine Ford multi later steel gasket and bolts out of a series 2 or 3 Au, every 4.0l I've even used them on has never done a head gasket again<br />y6eba2a8.jpg<br />

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By the way does any one have a home for that 4.0l pictured above, done about 20-30ks since rebuild needs a couple of lash adjusters as I stole them for another engine alternative if it realty bothers you I can replace them

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Pm sent.<br />Bottom ends<br />The crank in the bottom of the photos is an Au crank whereas the top of the photos is an Ef crank, Ef run more counterweights, Au uses larger main journals both use the same size rod journal, from memory (this was 2 years Ago I've got it written somewhere but I haven't found it yet) the Au crank was over a kilo and a half lighter than the Ef crank<br />4ygenyru.jpg<br />equ5ahap.jpg<br />5y2upyre.jpg<br />The rod and pistons on the left is Au the right is Ef, Au use a longer con rod and a smaller dish in the piston, the longer rod reduces piston speed at each end of the stroke and creates torque<br />sanaqypa.jpg<br />I also has a lightweight crank girdle/scraper as well as the Mains being cross bolted into the aluminium sump (steel sump will still for over Au caps except for the rear most refer to my earlier posts) Au dumps also have a windage tray and a larger oil capacity<br />6ume4emy.jpg<br />vune6epa.jpg<br />pu5ezyzu.jpg<br />a4ezerud.jpg

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Clint, I just re read your question properly, grab the xr6 fuel pressure reg too, if it has a red paint make on it it's the stock xr6 one and is rated 10 psi higher than the standard reg

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Theed cam will be ok, but if using a stock cam an ea cam is the best to use (more torque thought the whole rpm range) but if going for an after market cam just use the xr6 cam until you get one

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One thin I realised I should of put at the very start, whenever doing any mechanical work to a 4.0l always set the engine on tdc no1 you hat never know how far you have to pull them apart sometimes and putting valvetrain/camshafts back together cans be a real pain if not set at tdc no1

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The Au bottom end is very similar to the BA then as they have the same cross bolt mains setup, girdle and windage tray...  Except the tray is part of the girdle and the girdle isnt cut out for the oil pump because is crank driven.

 

07ET0138.jpg

 

 

07ET0139.jpg

 

 

07ET0140.jpg

 

 

And here is a shot of the 3 rods lined up side by side...

BA - ED - XF

 

07ET0213.jpg

 

 

Sorry for the thread hijack mate, just thought it was of interest while on this topic..

One thing that had me confused is why they didnt adopt the cross bolt mains to the front 2 that weren't held by the girdle because of the pump cutout... then i noticed they followed suit with the DOHC aswell :???:

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