SPArKy_Dave 8,869 Posted July 24, 2013 Very interesting information. I always thought it was the level of moisture in brake fluid, that caused the problems. Seems like it's actually the level of free roaming Copper ION's, that is the major issue. Do the Aussie brake fluid tests, and RWC tests, look for Copper Corrosion?.......... it seems like the USA DOT does. http://academyfordadvantage.com/2013/03/11/brake-fluid-do-you-need-to-replace-it/ http://changebrakefluid.blogspot.com.au/ http://www.brakebleeder.com/home-mechanics/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve mcqueen 1,796 Posted July 24, 2013 Yeah I always thought "it recommended to do a complete brake fluid flush every 2 years" just like coolant, its recommended to do it every 2 years as well but really, who does it? Not many people. 2 Outback Jack and revhead reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,650 Posted July 24, 2013 They come under the same topic as Trans fuid and diff oil, no one changed them as often as they should 1 steve mcqueen reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,869 Posted July 24, 2013 This is cool stuff - explains technically what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trev Vaa 1,185 Posted July 24, 2013 yeh i change mine anually or as soon as i notice anything odd... but i thrash the shit out of mine so im pretty funny with maintenance... i hate seeing people not change their brake fluid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
binary-fuel 4 Posted May 8, 2014 I'm restoring my XG ute to safe running condition. The breaks on it are not the best but then again the break pads are worn down and needs new ones along with a reset.I think all liquids including power steering fluids should be replaced after a fair amount of use. Just like air, anything that takes up space in the lines and are found around a much need lubricated area will make it not function correctly or not work at all. Replacing break fluid will make the break pressure even along with new break pads. If you leave it you may get some breaks being half pressured and thus find some break pads being worn while others are less worn. It could have an affect on your rotary disk. Warping and quickly worn break pads may be an indication that the pressure is uneven or that the break fluid is having trouble reaching the breaks its self.But that is just from seeing this happen. Other cases could be different or caused by other problems Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stevemack 122 Posted May 10, 2014 We use an electronic tester that tests something in the fluid, fucked if i can remember what it is! LOL When the red light comes on it's time to change that shit! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz 1,085 Posted May 10, 2014 Fuckin hell, my first car was an XL falcon with drums all round and a leaky rear wheel cylinder. I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container in 1980. Never had a problem except the right rear would lock up when I even thought about touching the brake pedal. The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusions! 4 XTREME KARTS XF, steve mcqueen, clevocortina and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clevocortina 1,109 Posted July 4, 2014 hahaha Gaz your a classy bloke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted July 4, 2014 I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container I replaced my clutch master last year and used the normal DOT4 stuff and chewed it out within 6 months, alloy particles all through it and leaking out the back. Bore was fucked, cup seal totalled. To keep it alive in the meantime, I shoved some 46 hydraulic oil (similar to ATF) in it. Worked like a charm and the rubber parts seem happy. Fuck the brake fluid... In this case it simply had zero lube properties and fucked a brand new cylinder. I'm still using hyd oil now with yet another cylinder and I'm never going back to brake fluid, at least for this purpose, ever again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hendrixhc 10,920 Posted July 4, 2014 This is a good video of how to vacuum bleed your brakes. Reminds a lot of you guys that have been on the piss the night before and got the shakes! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outback Jack 6,352 Posted July 5, 2014 We use an electronic tester that tests something in the fluid, fucked if i can remember what it is! LOL When the red light comes on it's time to change that shit! Its measuring the moisture content , you can also use a multimeter. It's not as accurate as some tests , but accurate enough. The greater the voltage, the more moisture in it. http://www.abcauto.com/MessageCenterDetail.aspx?ContentID=129 Thats basically it cause I can't be arsed writing it all........ haha. Jack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted July 5, 2014 Not sure of the sensitivity but modern common-rail diesels use a water trap sensor in the bottom that uses this principle (instead of the old float system)... maybe that could work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
