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It's in!!!!! Now to hook everything up.

Evening all. I picked this up today. Let me know if the pics don't work. She's an early dentside F250 4x4, commonly called the 'Highboy' option. She has a 351C and manual trans, lots of rust in the floors and a fairly clean engine compartment.

Found a safe DIY method, for basic leak testing of Injectors - Connect compressed air, set at normal fuel pump supply pressure (often 40-60 psi) Leave for a few hrs, and results should show.

I have been busy working away on the interior of the Darkside Garage Inc. Millennium Falcon Longreach. Still heaps to do.

Ba front end is in Sent from my ATU-L22 using Tapatalk

They spin in the bores. If they do not spin you wipe cam lobes. 8mm 1/4 drive on a battery drill fits in there with manifold on.Done it heaps.

4 blocked injectors, its fixed n fxxk does it haul arse Sent from my ATU-L22 using Tapatalk

I have been busy with a new direction on the interior still star wars themed but more Millennium Falcon. cheers Scott

Hello I just found this post and signed up. I have a Genuine 3.2 tonner MK2 van with its original owner book and an original factory service and repair book my Transit came out with a 250ci cross-flow but they also came in the 200ci cross-flow mine also had a 3 speed floor shift manual box it made my transit scream for more gears at 80klms I now have a 5 speed ford toploader out of an XF falcon so now I have a van that can do 120klms without to much effort but usualy I drive at 80 - 90klms.

For longevity, you are better off with a 331 over a 347, most 347's end up with the wrist pin behind the oil rings because the piston are so short, another draw back is also because of the short piston they tend to rock in the bores when the engine is cold and flog them out. There are plenty of ways to reach your power goals but you could help us out by telling us what your intentions are for the car (also what car it's going into), is it a street/strip car, with emphasis on street (and if more street than anything will it be a highway cruiser or an around town brawler) or strip (those can be two pretty different combos) or are corners more your thing, or even just a cruiser that sounds good and is capable of the occasional skid, what is the running gear you are planning to put behind it is it going to be a manual, is it going to be an auto, if it's going to be an auto which one and how much high stall are you willing to run, what's your rear end setup and do you have and what ratios would you like to run the more info you provide the better people can help you

Thought I would start a new thread for the motor and the million questions I imagine I will soon be asking. I'll be picking up the bottom end next Wednesday and then start putting the rest of it together. I swapped some bits off my spares ute for a motor that was being put together, and then sold on to my mate when the original builder got sick. So here is what I have as best we know, plus what I have purchased for it. Block is 40thou over and o-ringed (no idea why). Pistons are 8cc jobbies (we think). Crank has been balanced. Crow Cams cam 141550S https://www.crowcams.com.au/ShopbyProduct/tabid/92/ProdID/15317/CatID/317/141550S__FALCON_250_XD_CAM.aspx Crow Cams double row timing gears/chain. New lifters. MSD StreetFire ignition. New leads, spark plugs etc.. I just dropped off a D head to have a tidy up and get a valve job. Nothing fancy. No porting at this stage. I have Crower valve springs and Yella Terra Street Terra roller rockers to fit to it. Extractors and the 2 1/4 exhaust into a sports muffler (no idea what it is) and no cat. I have Redline Torker manifold sitting here as well, but no carby at the moment for it. I have, of course, the OEM manifold and Weber. I was thinking of running a 500 Holley. New water pump and just picked up some EL thermofans. All hooked up to a T5 with a new Exedy HD clutch and I also have a couple of disc brake diffs here I can use to replace my drum diff. I was also going to use the EFI alloy rocker cover. Will this fit ok over the roller rockers? I have two working carby distributors I can pick from, as well as an EFI one. I take it I just stick to the carby dizzy? So that is where I am. I'm sure I have forgotten something, and I am sure I will have a heap of questions when I start putting it together. Parts starting to arrive.

You will have to swap your xg bellhousing (The au bellhousing will bolt to the xg engine bit the bottom of the bellhousing won't mate up with the gearbox supports and unless the Au was also column shift it won't have the mounts for the shift selector), Speedo drive and gearshift indicator onto the Au box and it will go in

And the winner is .... 80% full of water and rusted pinion bearing.... what a mess... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All done for now. I just have to replace the screws holding it in with some new flat headed screws, but done for now. ive ordered the gauges, so the next thing will be to make the wiring harness for the gauges. https://i.imgur.com/ncLiTeT.jpg

So I fucked up with assembly.... Installed the box, had to jack the engine up and tilt it sideways to get it past the extractors. Hooked everything up, started the engine, then my boy looked under it and said "daddy there's blood coming out"... Looked under, it's coming out of the sector shaft. I'd put the shaft pressure seal (the one above the Pitman Arm) in backwards, after deliberating on which way to do it. I have no exploded view or instructions and couldn't remember how it came out. I guess I had a 50% chance and I lost. I managed to pop the arm off, push the shaft up (after taking the top plate out) dig out the dust seal, remove the circlip and seal all with the box in place, which saved a shitload of work pissfarting around with jacking up the engine again, etc. The seal actually goes in with the "cup" section facing upwards toward the pressure side, with the oil pressure forcing the inner and outer lips to seal on their respective surfaces. The dust seal goes in backwards to the way a normal seal goes in: the lip goes facing inwards. If you put it in like you would normally with say an axle seal, the lip will run on the splines. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Hypertec make a dished (12cc?) piston to suit 351 crank & 351 rod with closed chamber heads($438.61), or can open up the chamber a bit with burr & use flat top piston, https://www.precisionintl.com/StockSearch.aspx?Search=PFO351C81H Hypertec also make shorter piston suit 351 crank & 302C rod, flat top $438.61 https://www.precisionintl.com/StockSearch.aspx?Search=PFO351C683H zero decked 351 with flat top & closed chamber heads are easy 11.3:1 or standard deck around 10.3:1, zero deck 351 with dished 10.1:1 also known for the locks to pull through standard retainers over 5500, best to upgrade valve springs, retainers & locks, & is needed for larger then 0.500" lift cam

E series sedan fit X series sedan E series wagons and utes fit x series wagons utes. I have a ED diff in the ute with a XH steel ute tail shaft.