gregaust

They do make those factory rods as a repro now . They do work well . Thinking out loud , Could maybe make up some rods like caltracs similar to the factory ones that go above the diff .

You can run caltracs with a super pro or Nolathane front bush works ok too.

That clip doesn't hold much . You could bend up a piece of flat steel to do similar

Almost correct .. Spot on for the crank counterweights . The D9 blocks are same deck height, the difference is the bores are a bit longer downwards which in a stroker setup adds a little extra for the piston. Although in theory that is good , in reality it doesn't really make a huge difference

.060" is fine. A lot go .080"

You don't really need the turkey pan tray. Those blue gaskets in that set work awesome

Good move . Flat tops and D3 heads are the go .

That's very interesting .. The Victor Reinz gaskets are good . Those I'd say are a very nice choice . I use the VR nitro seal I've found work great . Please just stay well away from the Felpro print-o-seal (Black teflon gasket with blue beads) They are rubbish. They are coated for easy removal but the teflon coating allows them to creep around between the smooth surfaces . Most then leak coolant @ the front

Just be aware , A BA/BF caliper is setup for a 28mm thick rotor . A few years ago a mate got a kit that used the bigger calipers on a factory 24mm rotor . Sure it's ok while everything is new The UPC kits did work ok but no longer made I have an RRS strut setup uses a VE Commodore caliper & 300mm rotor , they are brilliant

Looking very neat ....

Spot on yes . Done many the same XY , XA XC XD with the XC calipers and XF and no issues at all . As long as you have the XC or XD front lever also for the handbrake you'll be sweet .

Any of those are an ok option for a mild setup . Don't get caught up in the whole HP robbing thing. For your setup you'd never notice. Anyway a roller bearing in a C6 at the rear helps free them up and available as a bolt in deal . The C4's are around but pricey . If you're rebuilding budget in for a planet as most are worn out . The C6 is tough as as long as the pipes will fit as above . The right parts and a shift kit help nicely. And a tube dipstick will fit in a Falcon no problems . The FMX with a good rebuild and transgo shift kit is all it will need . As long as it is ok parts wise to start with , and pay attention to the forward drum bore where the sealing rings run . A lot are worn but can be sleeved . FMX + C4 are same length so tailshaft will fit with correct yoke . C6 likely need tailshaft shortened

I used a lot of that spec cam many years ago . Several manufacturers made basically same grinds . They were a real nice all round cam in a 302 or 351. In a 400 it will make great torque

They usually only have 6 base plate screws , 2 spare holes .