revhead

its n easy conversion, just ditch the efi manifold n fit a 4 brrl manifold n hot wire the dizzy and itl be in an running before you know it, no wiring loom nothing using the xw stock wiring
 
if you need more info please ask.
ive got a wiring short cut here for the dizzy, etc
 
you can use old x series v8 engine mounts as the still bolt to the new windsor ,

Can't say I'm a fan...
 
Does anyone actually even look at their tacho when sinking the boot in though? I always watch the road...

Nice adaptation of the monster tacho inside the dash. My preference is for the 3 3/8 inch tacho if one is needed, but if you have a working tacho this may well be a good option for a shift light, this is what I will/am running. It has a digital numerical tacho with multi stage shift light(programmable rpm range to 100rpm) and fits between the factory tacho and factory speedo hidden inside the dash cowl.
 

just looks ,not engines or reliable,i actually think the au fairlane /ltd is quite a good looking car,i drove one for 1 year.

generally when i rub through i mix up a wet mix of primer filler and just give it a light coat just before i paint the colour
 
also when rubbing with any block remember to stay away from folds or body lines and edges, only use the block on flat areas

Yeah and the rub throughs might be indicating high spots that need to be gently tapped down.  hard to diagnose remotely.

I only use 2 pac primer filler, and as such I have limited experience in single pak applications.  What I will say is that you risk frying the edges with the single pack and the bog.  When I repaired Cam's torana recently I had trouble with frying.  I ended up continually spraying it with etch and rubbing until I got it.  Not ideal and not something I would normally do.  the 2 pac systems are just so superior - that's why most use them.
 
That's all I got.  I'm sure other will be more help

Thanks for the replies fellas! Gee you all gave me some options to think about.  I tried rebleeding it this arvo on flat ground without the radiator cap (thanks for confirming Mr Polson and outback Jack). After checking air bleed hoses, cheers dean kdc. When idling the level on the recovery tank did come up, and came up even further when revving more. I noticed some big bubbles initially (hopefully air lock), but when giving it a few revs also noticed more of an off white foam – im guessing this is what you were talking about bear351c?. This foam though did settle while running the car. Level decreased after turing off car and letting sit for a while. Thermostat definitely opened. No white smoke out of exhaust though.
So I’m guessing that’s a leak between the coolant and exhaust manifold like Dave said? Thanks for the run through ReVhEad, will be a good excuse to put the the tickford head I have floating around. I heard the go was putting in au mps type gasket – so I will try that I reckon
The only other thing is that part of the gas system sits quiet high, part of it in line with the recovery tank – would their be any point in future in bleeding it with the drivers side front pointing slightly towards the ground? Ill keep an eye for all that crap thanks Banno.
Thanks again lads

You have a recovery tank, but, bought a NON recovery cap??  No way for coolant to get back into radiator.
 
Run engine with the cap off the radiator, if you see bubbles down the hole, it's your head gasket....sorry.
 
Change rad cap, check ignition timing.  A radiator may be 50% blocked and still have clear fluid coming out with a backflush, maybe try a secondhand rad, when you find a wreckers.
 
Let us know how ya get on, matey.

a head gasket on an xg, xh e series donk easy as ,ive done hundreds , just make sure you get it surface ground and tanked to clean it all up an check it for cracks ,most of these alloy heads rott around the rear water galleriers ,but as youve stated its got milk ,il bett its blown into the timing chain gallery at the front an between 1 and 2 cylinders ,most good engine builders will charge you $60 bucks to tank it and $60 for a surface grind, the head gasket set will cost between $90 to $110, stay away from super cheap and repco brand sets as there shitty ,i go for monotorque or similar and remember to got the 30nm and the 90% turn, and yes replace the head studs, 

also when you pull the head off ,you dont have to take the intake manifold completely off just undo the bolts holding it to the head and leave it sitting roght were it is as it has brackets supporting it ,same with the exhaust manifold undo all the bolts and simply lift the head straight up and out between both manifolds, also make sure you put sealant on the bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket to the front of the head as this will cause you oil leaks after ass, dont forget to undo the chain guide bolt on the very front of the head ,and yes have the motor on top dead centre .also leave the cam on the head as well,use cable tires to hold the timing chain onto the cam gear and undo the bolt holding this on an simply sit it to the side ,cheers ,
 
if you need and more info or hints please ask,

also when you pull the head off ,you dont have to take the intake manifold completely off just undo the bolts holding it to the head and leave it sitting roght were it is as it has brackets supporting it ,same with the exhaust manifold undo all the bolts and simply lift the head straight up and out between both manifolds, also make sure you put sealant on the bolts that hold the power steering pump bracket to the front of the head as this will cause you oil leaks after ass, dont forget to undo the chain guide bolt on the very front of the head ,and yes have the motor on top dead centre .also leave the cam on the head as well,use cable tires to hold the timing chain onto the cam gear and undo the bolt holding this on an simply sit it to the side ,cheers ,
 
if you need and more info or hints please ask,

McFly, Brandon, did it in his xseries.

There's a whole write-up for the conversion on xfalcon Pete, not sure if anyone has transferred it over here yet

In one word.
 
No.

if you are moving your battery ,another thing you must do is run an good sized wire from the back of your altenator to directly to your starter motor this aids in stopping voltage drop, and gives motor maxium amps on start up,
 
i have seen cars without this and the wiring gets a little warm.also dont forget the starter relay, itl need to keep a good supply of power to that or you could run into problems

if you are moving your battery ,another thing you must do is run an good sized wire from the back of your altenator to directly to your starter motor this aids in stopping voltage drop, and gives motor maxium amps on start up,
 
i have seen cars without this and the wiring gets a little warm.also dont forget the starter relay, itl need to keep a good supply of power to that or you could run into problems

Would love to see this persons idea of running aftermarket fuel lines.

Diesel or petrol would prob do the job if your in a pinch lol
 
Straya

Use an oil based degreaser, such as kerosene, 'neat-cut' if you can get it (low fumes), & use an extraction fan if possible.
 
I never use water based degreaser on engine/driveline components.

That's it............just blew in my pants.

you can fit a second hand one ,but it must be the same colour and every number on the new bcm must match the old one ,, good luck

why not put the compressor up on the left side where it belongs
 
another problem you cant cut a little off as the motor lifts from the left to the right ,and youl find the compressor smashing into the sway bar mount all the time ,

I found these were loose when I went to adjust the catch height mate, I tightened these up and the catch was a good height so it's all sweet.

youve got something hooked up and its feeding power back through everything ,disconnet all non standard items ,1 at a time,