Gaz

It's poly green. It always looks darker on utes for some reason.

Stupid question, but is it efi?

Old mechanics tip #2
Pull that stinkin' coil off the side of the block and mount it on top of the manifold. If you get it in the perfect spot, the coil lead will still reach the dissy. You will need to extend the low tension lead.

Jack it up, put in reverse (engine off, ignition on) and loosen and  twist the switch. When the rev lights come on, lock up the switch and then check all your inhibitor and selector functions.

Through the xmember is the right way to do it as it keeps the cable fully supported but you HAVE to use a bracket to hold the cable in line with the hole in the bell-housing or you will destroy them every time. 

Through the xmember is the right way to do it as it keeps the cable fully supported but you HAVE to use a bracket to hold the cable in line with the hole in the bell-housing or you will destroy them every time. 

It's nothing like mine but it might do the job. It's cheap enough but.
Last time I replaced mine, (about 10 years ago) the removal tool was about 80 and the installation tool about 65.
If you're in Melbs I can do it for you. 
Try Ford for the adaptor or Enzed or Pirtek. Enzed Bayswater used to make them for me in batches of 20  when I was doing them full time, when the Ford price went through the roof, but it would be a slow moving part for them now. 

Column manual XF also had the XD/XE style.

All adjustable columns had the "square look" xf covers. All column auto XF and XG had the "round XD/XE look". 

Looks more like Polynesian Green to me

The XF booster will bolt straight in but the XD/XE master won't bolt on without reworking the shit out of the mounting holes.
So you have some options.
XF booster with reworked XD master.
XF booster with XF master and XF brake lines.
XF booster with XF master and re-worked brake lines.
Small XD booster with no other mods.
I can understand why you want to use an XF booster because they are just so clean and simple looking compared to the XD/XE booster, and It's why I used one on my XdEE when I did the 4.0 conversion 8 years ago, but unless you are prepared for all the extra pissin' around, forget it.

'95 xg xr. Coolant light comes on after 10 seconds. Tried unplugging the sender, tried everything bar removing the globe. Any suggesticles.

You can grind all the excess casting off and they fit nicely. Or use an XG column-auto shroud (look like XD/XE style)

You can grind all the excess casting off and they fit nicely. Or use an XG column-auto shroud (look like XD/XE style)

Brakes pfft. Highly overrated.
 
 
 
cough cough  bullshit.

Looks like an original Kelsey lower arm with the balljoint spotted on. I thought they were only on XR/T and early XW with the straight caster rods (holes at 45 degrees)

E series cables are shorter than X series. You can use it no problems, but it won't reach if you route it through the crossmember as per spec. You can still run it through if you drill a new exit hole. Or do what every other cunt does and leave it swinging in the breeze.

Not pistons. That part number is rings

Rich.

I didn't have any trouble whatsoever to rego mine in Vic in 2005. I went armed with all the Vicroads rules and regulations in case there was going to be a shitfight, but all they did was check the engine number. The inspector had heaps of questions (like what engine mounts etc.) but he was quite happy to just do his job which was to basically id both the engine and chassis and sign it off. At the end of the day, it's just an engine swap. If you don't make a big deal out of the fact that it's a different engine, and make sure it looks like it belongs in there, then they're less likely to give a shit or cause any hassle. No engineering necessary.

I didn't have any trouble whatsoever to rego mine in Vic in 2005. I went armed with all the Vicroads rules and regulations in case there was going to be a shitfight, but all they did was check the engine number. The inspector had heaps of questions (like what engine mounts etc.) but he was quite happy to just do his job which was to basically id both the engine and chassis and sign it off. At the end of the day, it's just an engine swap. If you don't make a big deal out of the fact that it's a different engine, and make sure it looks like it belongs in there, then they're less likely to give a shit or cause any hassle. No engineering necessary.

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=61132
 
He was a member on xfal....... but haven't seen him around lately

They're not in the way, plus I reckon they'd make good jacking points

They're not in the way, plus I reckon they'd make good jacking points

they are a spot light, only come on when the switch on the left of the guage pod is pulled out plus on high beam *(maybe your fog lights use that switch now)
 
XFs have a similar setup and they come on with high beam always (not switched separate) and work amazing*(if the reflectors are any good still). you could wire them to come on at the same time as high beams.
 
first thing to do.. ADD RELAYS!  stock globes are fine and work VERY well with relays added.(if the rest of the lense/reflectors are good)
Check your reflectors inside the light assy.. are they shiny like a mirror? if not, get them reco'd(pretty sure the bigger one is same as the base model, double check that, they are more common though)
AIMING.. the clips that hold the reflectors on get brittle with age.. possibly broken one and aiming is out.
 
taking the lense off to access the insides if needed is risky(if you break a ghia lense. you may cry, they are rare and expensive)
 
clean lenses(glass)(and clean protectors) are needed too.
 
Ghia lights are brilliant when in good nic, they might be dull due to bad connections too.. pays to have a look at the electrical side being 30 years old.